FRANCIS DORAI is a Singaporean editor and writer who has worked in practically the entire spectrum of publishing – including newspapers, magazines and books – on subjects as diverse as travel, lifestyle and finance. ELIZA TEOH has been writing for over 20 years, starting as a
traditional style and modern chic blend seamlessly. Spend your morning admiring lovingly restored SINGAPORE is a bustling island state where colonial-era shophouses, and your afternoon visiting traditional style and modern chic blend seamlessly. brand-new resorts showcasing the very latest trends Spend your morning admiring lovingly restored in entertainment and recreation. The island’s short colonial-era shophouses, and your afternoon visiting yet rich history – from a small unknown fishing village brand-new resorts showcasing the very latest trends to a first-world metropolis in less than 200 years – has in entertainment and recreation. The island’s short resulted in a society of unparalleled diversity, with yet rich history – from a small unknown fishing village Chinese, Malay, Indian and European influences at to a first-world metropolis in less than 200 years – has every turn. resulted in a society of unparalleled diversity, with Chinese, Malay, Indian and European influences at SINGAPORE CHIC introduces readers to every turn. the excitement that this vibrant city has to offer. Its expert authors highlight the very best of the island’s SINGAPORE CHIC introduces readers to dynamic gourmet scene, shopping malls and streets, the excitement that this vibrant city has to offer. Its vibrant nightlife, architectural treasures and lively expert authors highlight the very best of the island’s arts scene. Luxury and boutique hotels are profiled dynamic gourmet scene, shopping malls and streets, alongside the city’s trendiest shops, restaurants, spas vibrant nightlife, architectural treasures and lively and nightspots. Each profile includes a fact box which arts scene. Luxury and boutique hotels are profiled provides key information and contact details, making alongside the city’s trendiest shops, restaurants, spas it easy for even the first-time visitor to find their way and nightspots. Each profile includes a fact box which to the very best Singapore has to offer. provides key information and contact details, making it easy for even the first-time to find Get the latest onvisitor Singapore at their way to the very best Singapore has to offer. chicdestinations.net – and
SINGAPORE chic
SINGAPORE is a bustling island state where
Hotels I Resorts I Restaurants I Shops I Spas I Galleries
SINGAPORE chic
download our iPhone app for free!
journalist then subsequently becoming a sub-editor at The Straits Times in Singapore. Currently an editorial consultant, Eliza is also the author of the Ellie Belly series of children’s books.
JACQUELINE TAN is a writer and book author with an intense passion for travel, history, food and fashion. She was a fashion and beauty editor of several top magazines in Singapore, as well as a creative director in the advertising world. Get the latest on Singapore at chicdestinations.net – and download our iPhone app for free!
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CONTENTS SINGAPORE IN STYLE
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11
INTRODUCTION
14
48 HOURS IN SINGAPORE
24
PERSONALITIES’ PICKS
32
EATING OUT
42
SHOPPING
54
WHERE THE ART IS …
62
DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE
72
SPAS AND WELLNESS CENTRES
78
AFTER DARK
86
ETHNIC ENCLAVES
96
OUT OF TOWN
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MOST STYLISH PLACES RESTAURANTS
HOTELS & RESORTS
110
Brussels Sprouts
112
Capella Singapore
126
Kinki Restaurant + Bar
116
The Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore
128
LeVeL33
118
The Fullerton Hotel Singapore
132
The Marmalade Pantry
120
Goodwood Park Hotel
134
Michelangelo’s
122
Hotel Fort Canning
138
Original Sin
150
The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore
142
Picotin
158
Singapore Marriott Hotel
146
Procacci
148
PS.Cafe
152
Rocks Urban Grill + Bar
154
Saint Pierre
156
Senso Ristorante & Bar
162
Sque Rotisserie & Alehouse
164
True Blue Cuisine
166
Wild Honey
SHOPPING 124
ION Orchard
140
Paragon
SPAS 114
ESTHEVA
130
The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Singapore
USEFUL INFORMATION GALLERIES
170
Acknowledgements & Picture Credits
108
Art Trove
171
Index
136
Mulan Gallery
174
Map of Singapore
144
Pop and Contemporary Fine Art
176
City Map
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I N T RODUCTI ON
Now you see it, now you don’t. Blink and it morphs into a different creature. Decades of radical urban surgery and social reconstruction have resulted in a Singapore that is constantly mutating and changing its face. The fishing village that its colonial founder Sir Stamford Raffles chanced upon in 1819 is virtually unrecognisable in its current guise. The inherited colonial structures – icons such as the Raffles Hotel, The Fullerton Hotel Singapore (formerly the General Post Office), the National Museum of Singapore, St Andrew’s Cathedral, the Victoria Concert Hall, among others – have thankfully been preserved, as is the use of English as the lingua franca, but this is where Singapore’s tenuous link with Britain as a former colony ends. The city-state has managed to completely re-invent itself in a matter of four decades since its independence in 1965, not just in the transformation of the physical landscape, but in terms of social capital, in ways of thinking, and in the renaissance of its arts and cultural scene. Somewhere along, in the path between gearing up to be Asia’s economic powerhouse and its obsession for perfection, Singapore has loosened up on its political and social strictures, and transformed itself into an outpost of all that is cutting-edge and hip. The opening of the mega integrated resorts, Marina Bay Sands and Resorts WorldTM Sentosa (the city has already outstripped Las Vegas to become the second most profitable destination in terms of gaming revenue after Macau), has had something to do with that new image, but that’s only half the story. The self-confidence that the average Singaporean wears as a badge stems from a combination of factors: living in one of the world’s most advanced countries, being OPPOSITE:
A restaurant on Haji Lane
ABOVE:
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PERSONALITIES’ PICKS
Linda Wee, General Manager of Goodwood Park Hotel, is a seasoned hotelier with over 25 years in the industry. The hotel veteran has held executive positions at leading hotel companies, including Hyatt Regency Singapore, Le Meridien Singapore and Pan Pacific Orchard.
Top Table The nasi lemak (coconut-flavoured rice with side dishes like fried fish, egg, sliced cucumber and chilli condiment) at Grandma’s Place is really sedap (Malay for delicious). It reminds me of my childhood when this rice dish was a breakfast staple. What’s also good here are the bukari rice with home-style curry chicken, achar (pickled vegetables) and rendang (aromatic beef curry), all typical Malay specialities.
Favourite Watering Hole I would have to say it’s the refurbished KPO or Killiney Post Office to unwind after dinner with friends. A post office by day and a funky dining and drinking hole by night, the building itself is a historical landmark, 28 I
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Exhibits at the Peranakan Museum
located at the junction of Killiney, Penang and Orchard roads.
Hidden Treasure
TOP (MIDDLE AND RIGHT): Nasi Lemak served with balachan chilli and ikan billis, and Penang Laksa
Bollywood Veggies, an organic farm in rural Kranji in the northwest of Singapore, is an excellent place to experience the island’s “green side” and an ideal getaway from the concrete and steel of Orchard Road. I find the verdant greenery calming, and it’s a great way to de-stress from
city life. As a Peranakan, I would also highly recommend visiting the Peranakan Museum for a glimpse of the unique charms of this hybrid Chinese-Malay indigenous culture.
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Killer Views
Tracie and Adrian Pang are the Artistic Directors of Pangdemonium! Productions, a new theatre company with several successful productions to its name. Both are well-known names in Singapore’s theatre scene – Tracie for her awardwinning directing efforts and Adrian for his stellar acting skills both on TV, film and on stage.
The best view of the Singapore skyline is from the vantage point of One Fullerton, looking out onto Marina Bay at night. The lights and the shimmering water are simply breathtaking. Even more perfect if there is a light breeze blowing, but you can’t have everything.
Choice Activity Top Table Without a doubt, Hua Yu Wee on Upper East Coast Road. It serves a huge variety of local and regional favourite dishes, from black pepper crayfish and hot-plate venison to the ever-popular chilli crab – all delicious, and very affordable. A great place for a big, noisy, ravenous party.
Favourite Watering Hole We love Loof on Victoria Street. It’s a great open rooftop bar with wonderful atmosphere, and it’s just a skip from the Drama Centre at the National Library – the perfect post-show place to unwind and bitch about that night’s audience (oops, did we say that out loud?)
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BELOW:
View of the Marina Bay with the ArtScience Museum and the Marina Bay Sands
LEFT:
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We are huge movie fans, so once in a while we treat ourselves to a Gold Class movie night at a Golden Village cinema with all the works: chicken wings, red wine, pop corn, Coca-Cola, ice cream, hot chocolate and indigestion – in that order. Being able to recline in the huge armchairs and snuggle up under a blanket and enjoy the movie is such an indulgent experience. We could spend the entire night here.
Chilli crab, a popular local dish
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WHERE THE ART IS … THE ART AND CULTURE SCENE IS BUSTLING IN THE ISLAND CITY, WITH A PLETHORA OF MUSEUMS AND ART GALLERIES WHICH COVER THE GAMUT FROM HERITAGE TO CONTEMPORARY.
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Singapore’s relatively short history may not have garnered many historical artefacts and art, but what precious little the city has is stored with utmost care and displayed with pride. The Eleven Treasures of the country include precious relics like the Singapore Stone, a fragment of a boulder that bore the earliest inscription found in Singapore; a portrait of Sir Stamford Raffles; and the Farquhar prints and drawings, a collection of natural history drawings commissioned by William Farquhar (one of the key people in Singapore’s formative years). These are stored and displayed with state-of-the-art conservation techniques at the National Museum of Singapore (6332 3659; www. nationalmuseum.sg), the grande dame of local museums. The museum is small in size, when compared to the likes of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, Paris’s Louvre and London’s British Museum, but certainly not lacking in aesthetics, quality, décor or technology. Inaugurated in 1887 as the Raffles Library and Museum by Sir Frederick Weld (the then Governor of the Straits Settlements) the museum went through a major cosmetic overhaul in the 21st century and reopened in 2006. On the outside, its beautifully preserved conservation building belies its long history. Inside, its collections are divided into the Singapore History Gallery and the Singapore Living Galleries. At the History Gallery, visitors can dive into Singapore’s history through a chronological events path, or step into the shoes of a typical historical character, with the aid of “The Companion”, an audio-visual guide that makes for an interactive journey. The Living Galleries are spaces dedicated to the living culture of Singapore – Film & Wayang (iconic early films and Chinese opera), Photography (archival family photographs that trace the typical lives of early Singaporean families),
TOP: A scene from the film Sejarah Singapura: Picture of 14th Century Singapore, History Gallery, National Museum of Singapore
Food (nostalgic street dishes) and Fashion (the shifting identities of Singapore women from 1950s to 1970s). Most of these galleries are not merely visual, but also stimulate with smells, sounds and textures. The galleries throughout the Asian Civilisations Museum (6332 2982; www. acm.org.sg), along the Singapore River, explore the cultures, heritage and practices of the different ethnic groups that make Singapore the melting pot that it is today
ABOVE:
The Asian Civilisations Museum
OPPOSITE (TOP):
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Singapore OPPOSITE (BELOW): One of the Living Galleries at the National Museum of Singapore
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WHERE THE ART IS …
ABOVE:
A vintage traditional Peranakan four-poster bed
ABOVE (LEFT):
A current exhibition at the Singapore Philatelic Museum
LEFT: The façade of the Singapore Philatelic Museum
– from Southeast Asia, West Asia, South Asia and China. Take a stroll through its halls and learn about the Chinese, Malays, Indians, the indigenous tribes of the neighbouring lands, age-old religions and even the trading and agricultural habits of the people of the past. Befitting its location, the Singapore River Gallery, with a glittering view of the river, tells the stories of this “life force” of the country and its impact on the lives of Singapore’s forefathers – the coolies, chettiars, orang laut (indigenous people) and the European colonial masters. Among the communities, the most unique heritage is that of the Peranakans. Comprising a unique hybrid culture of 56 I
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the Chinese and Malay through mixed marriages, the complexities of this amazing culture can hardly be explained in a sentence. Visit the Peranakan Museum (6332 7591; www.peranakanmuseum.sg) on Armenian Street for the full story. Housed in the former Tao Nan School, designed in the eclectic classical style of the early 20th century, all aspects of the multi-faceted Peranakan culture can be explored here, from dress to customs to visual arts. Just a stone’s throw away from the Peranakan Museum, the Singapore Philatelic Museum (6337 3888; www. spm.org.sg) is a veritable wonderland for philatelists and casual stamp admirers alike. Permanent galleries take visitors through the world of philately, and show the process of how stamps are made – from concept to print and mail. One of the most important exhibits is the Straits Settlements Collection, telling the story of the early postal history of Singapore from 1830s to post-independence (1965). The museum also houses permanent and temporary exhibitions, which explore important parts of local history and current events, such as the heritage of Singapore and the zodiac theme. Small museums can be just as charming. One of the most important institutions is the Raffles Hotel (6337 1886; www.raffles.com). Take a stroll through its grounds and you’ll almost feel like you’ve been transported into the era of mint juleps, speakeasies and the Great Gatsby. This turn-of-the-20th-century spirit is no better encapsulated than at the Raffles Hotel Museum. A modest but treasured display of the grand hotel’s travel ephemera and memorabilia such as china, silver, photographs and correspondence tells the tale of the Raffles, and with it, the story of the upper crust of society in early Singapore civilisation.
ABOVE:
Art lovers can converge at the Singapore Art Museum (6332 3222; www. singaporeartmuseum.sg), the country’s biggest and most important art museum. The museum presents art from the region’s contemporary pioneers or breakthrough artists, to mid-career artists and even upcoming talent, with 80 percent from
TOP:
The Singapore Art Museum
The Raffles Hotel Museum
Southeast Asia and 20 percent from a wider Asian context such as Japan, Korea, India and China. SAM at 8Q (6332 3200; www. singaporeartmuseum.sg), the extension wing of the art museum just across the
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WHERE THE ART IS … road, focuses on innovative multimedia works that transcend all disciplines. Travelling exhibitions often take up temporary residence at the ArtScience Museum (www.marinabaysands.com) next to the Marina Bay Sands. The museum, however, has a permanent display – “ArtScience: Journey Through Creativity”. It pays homage to the union of art and science through three galleries – Curiosity, Inspiration and Expression. The “world’s first purpose-built museum for toys”, according to its owner, Mint Museum of Toys (6339 0660; www. emint.com) is a boutique museum that houses a collection of toys owned by a private collector. It boasts a nostalgic assortment from the good old days of the classic Mickey to Tin Tin, and even before that: some of the toys are more than a century old, from the West to the East. With over 50,000 toys in its collection, only a portion of the stash can be displayed at any one time, so the displays are rotated every few months. Dedicated to design, the Red Dot Design Museum (6327 8027; www.red-dot. sg/museum) houses an ever-changing collection of modern design works across all different media. Visitors can also pick up a guide to full or half-day walking tours to see some of Singapore’s best designs in the flesh, from gourmet chocolate shops to traditional teahouses.
The Art Mash One doesn’t have to look very hard to see that visual arts are aplenty in cosmopolitan Singapore (www.publicart. sg). Right smack in the Central Business District, at UOB Plaza, sits a couple of bronze pieces by two of the masters – LEFT: The ArtScience Museum at Marina Bay Sands
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Homage to Newton by Salvador Dali in the building atrium, and Bird by Fernando Botero on the riverfront, just a few steps away. Nearby, in front of One Raffles Quay at Finlayson Green, an imposing, colourdrenched steel work of art, with its layers of figures rising up to the sky in a spiral motion, gets the attention of motorists and passers-by alike. This is Momentum by Israeli artist David Gerstein. On the steps outside of ION Orchard, six fluid sculptures (titled Urban People) by Swiss sculptor Kurt Laurenz Metzler ply the steps and attract more than their fair share of attention from snap-happy tourists. On the corner of Orchard and Paterson Roads, local artist Kumari Nahappan’s giant RIGHT:
The Red Dot Design Museum on Maxwell Road
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A display at the Mint Museum of Toys
ABOVE (RIGHT): A glimpse of the exhibition space on the third floor of the Mint Museum of Toys
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WHERE THE ART IS … nutmeg sculpture Nutmeg & Mace evokes Orchard Road’s early days as a nutmeg plantation. A digital waterfall cascades down the façade of the mall, designed by London design firm Troika, known for the Heathrow Airport digital sculpture, Cloud. ION Orchard (see pages 124–125) takes great pains to integrate retail and lifestyle with fine art, especially through the ION Art gallery (6238 8228; www.ionorchard. com), a sprawling art space designed to
LEFT: Sculpture entitled Nutmeg & Mace outside ION Orchard BELOW:
Urban People graces the front entrance to ION Orchard
DO THE ART WALK The adage “birds of a feather flock together” is never more true than with art galleries and museums in Singapore. The city’s art venues tend to be clustered around just a few zones, most of which can easily be covered on foot, or a combination of walking and public transport. The biggest cluster is in the arts and heritage districts of Marina Bay and Bugis. From the city’s museums in the Civic District, through art galleries and venues in Raffles Hotel and Raffles City, down to Mount Sophia, past Selegie Road and ending in Little India, there are close to a hundred intriguing stops you can make. Alternatively, do the more compact art walk through the Central Business District consisting of Tanjong Pagar, Chinatown and Raffles Place. If a car or taxi is at your disposal, try artsy colonies like Holland Village, Dempsey Hill and Wessex Estate, or even as far out as the eastern part of the island, Joo Chiat and Eunos. For details on art walks, go to www.sagg.com.sg
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house the finest works of art that come through Singapore. ION Orchard is also the home of Opera Gallery (6735 2618; www. operagallery.com), a seminal art gallery that showcases the likes of great masters such as Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso, Henri Paul Gauguin and Georges Braque, as well as young, emerging talents. Nearby, Bruno Gallery on Tanglin Road (6733 0283; www.brunoartgroup. com/Bruno_Gallery_Singapore/) stands apart from the crowd with its comprehensive representation of top Israeli painters and sculptors. Away from the Orchard Road crowd, Mulan Gallery in the Museum and Art precinct (see pages 136–137)) is nestled within one of the heritage streets in Singapore – Armenian Street – boasting conservation shophouses and cluster of museums within walking distance. Their portfolio of artists includes emerging painters and sculptors with a penchant for surrealism and hyperrealism, with sociopolitical and cultural nuances. Other reputable art galleries in the city include Ode To Art (6688 7779; www. odetoart.com), which represents the likes of top Chinese contemporary sculptor Chen Wenling; Taksu (6476 4788; www. taksu.com), whose works tend to exude a distinctly urban edge and SooBin Art International (6837 2777; www.soobinart. com.sg), founded and run by SooBin Chua,
a respected art curator and photographer, with a keen eye for fine art. Run by artists, 2902 Gallery on Mount Sophia (6339 8655; www.2902gallery.com) is located at the stylishly off-kilter Old School, the former premises of an old girls’ school transformed into a creative hub. They represent the gamut of artists, local and foreign, across all media from painting and sculpture to photography and mixed media. Emerging local artists find their platform in Night & Day (6884 5523; www. nightandday.sg), a venue that houses an
TOP: Jiang Huan’s Lost in Transition at Mulan Gallery ABOVE:
The artwork on display at Ode
to Art
exhibition area on level 4 and a watering hole on level 2. Its casual, welcoming vibe makes even new art buyers and admirers feel at home. From high-brow art to low-brow pop-inspired pieces, past masters to fresh talent, everyone is represented and appreciated in this city of art lovers.
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FRANCIS DORAI is a Singaporean editor and writer who has worked in practically the entire spectrum of publishing – including newspapers, magazines and books – on subjects as diverse as travel, lifestyle and finance. ELIZA TEOH has been writing for over 20 years, starting as a
traditional style and modern chic blend seamlessly. Spend your morning admiring lovingly restored SINGAPORE is a bustling island state where colonial-era shophouses, and your afternoon visiting traditional style and modern chic blend seamlessly. brand-new resorts showcasing the very latest trends Spend your morning admiring lovingly restored in entertainment and recreation. The island’s short colonial-era shophouses, and your afternoon visiting yet rich history – from a small unknown fishing village brand-new resorts showcasing the very latest trends to a first-world metropolis in less than 200 years – has in entertainment and recreation. The island’s short resulted in a society of unparalleled diversity, with yet rich history – from a small unknown fishing village Chinese, Malay, Indian and European influences at to a first-world metropolis in less than 200 years – has every turn. resulted in a society of unparalleled diversity, with Chinese, Malay, Indian and European influences at SINGAPORE CHIC introduces readers to every turn. the excitement that this vibrant city has to offer. Its expert authors highlight the very best of the island’s SINGAPORE CHIC introduces readers to dynamic gourmet scene, shopping malls and streets, the excitement that this vibrant city has to offer. Its vibrant nightlife, architectural treasures and lively expert authors highlight the very best of the island’s arts scene. Luxury and boutique hotels are profiled dynamic gourmet scene, shopping malls and streets, alongside the city’s trendiest shops, restaurants, spas vibrant nightlife, architectural treasures and lively and nightspots. Each profile includes a fact box which arts scene. Luxury and boutique hotels are profiled provides key information and contact details, making alongside the city’s trendiest shops, restaurants, spas it easy for even the first-time visitor to find their way and nightspots. Each profile includes a fact box which to the very best Singapore has to offer. provides key information and contact details, making it easy for even the first-time to find Get the latest onvisitor Singapore at their way to the very best Singapore has to offer. chicdestinations.net – and
SINGAPORE chic
SINGAPORE is a bustling island state where
Hotels I Resorts I Restaurants I Shops I Spas I Galleries
SINGAPORE chic
download our iPhone app for free!
journalist then subsequently becoming a sub-editor at The Straits Times in Singapore. Currently an editorial consultant, Eliza is also the author of the Ellie Belly series of children’s books.
JACQUELINE TAN is a writer and book author with an intense passion for travel, history, food and fashion. She was a fashion and beauty editor of several top magazines in Singapore, as well as a creative director in the advertising world. Get the latest on Singapore at chicdestinations.net – and download our iPhone app for free!
Singapore Chic II Cover -Final 2_.indd 1
2nd Proof
Title:
Singapore Chic 2012 / Janet
Job No:CD0512-22
5/10/12 12:48 PM