Lee Alexander McQueen A brief glance at his savage, beautiful life... B y E d r i c k D. A g o s t i ni
VOGUE | Lee Alexander McQueen Savage, beautiful life...
“I want to be the purveyor of a certain silhouette or way of cutting, so that when I’m dead and gone people w ill know that the t wenty - f irst centur y was started by Alexander McQueen.”
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B R I T I S H FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R A N D COUTURIER BEST KNOWN FOR HIS IN-DEPTH KNOWLEDGE OF BESPOKE B R I T I S H TA I L O R I N G , H I S T E N D E N C Y TO JUXTAPOSE STRENGTH WITH FRAGILITY IN HIS COLLECTIONS...
VOGUE | Lee Alexander McQueen Savage, beautiful life...
Early Life and Education Born on 17 March 1969 in Lewisham, London, to Scottish taxi driver Ronald and social science teacher Joyce, McQueen was the youngest of six children. He grew up in a council f lat in a tower block in Stratford. He attended Carpenters Road Primary School. He started making dresses for his three sisters at a young age and announced his intention to become a fashion designer. McQueen attended Rokeby School and left at age16 in 1984 with one O-level in art, going on to serve an apprenticeship with Savile Row tailors Anderson and Sheppard, before joining Gieves & Hawkes and, later the theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans. The skills he learned as an apprentice on Savile Row helped earn a reputation in the fashion world as an expert in creating an impeccably tailored look.
Career While on Savile Row, his clients included Mikhail Gorbachev and Prince Charles. At the age20, he spent a period of time working for Koji Tatsuno before travelling to Milan, Italy and working for Romeo Gigli. McQueen returned to London in 1994 and applied to Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, to work as a pat tern cutter tutor. Because of the strength of his portfolio he was persuaded by the Head of the Masters course to enroll in the course as a student. He received his masters degree in fashion design and his graduation collection was bought in its entirety by inf luential fashion stylist Isabella Blow, who was said to have persuaded McQueen to become known as Alexander (his middle name) when he subsequently launched his fashion career. Icelandic singer Björk sought his work for the cover of her album Homogenic in 1997. McQueen also directed the music video for her song “Alarm Call” from the same album. McQueen’s early runway collections developed his reputation for controversy and shock tactics (earning the title “l’enfant terrible” and “the hooligan of English fashion”),with trousers aptly named “bumsters” and a collection entitled “Highland Rape”. In 2004, journalist Caroline Evans also wrote of McQueen’s “theatrical staging of cruelty,” in 032c magazine, referring to his dark and tortured renderings of Scottish History. He was known for his lavish, unconventional runway shows: a
recreation of a shipwreck for his spring 2003 collection; spring 2005’s human chess game; and his fall 2006 show “Widows of Culloden,” which featured a life-sized hologram of super model Kate Moss dressed in yards of rippling fabric. McQueen’s “ bumsters” spawned a trend in low rise jeans; on their debut they attracted many comments and debate. Michael Oliveira-Salac, the director of Blow PR and a friend of McQueen’s said that “The bumster for me is what defined McQueen.” McQueen also became known for using skulls in his designs. A scarf bearing the motif became a celebrity must-have and was copied around the world. He has been credited with bringing drama and extravagance to the catwalk. He used new technology and innovation to add a different twist to his shows and often shocked and surprised audiences. The silhouettes that he created have been credited for adding a sense of fantasy and rebellion to fashion. He became one of the first designers to use Indian models in London. McQueen also designed a range of dresses under the name of “manta”, priced at around £2800. The line, named af ter the manta ray, was inspired by a holiday he took to the Maldives in 2009. The designs have been worn by various models and celebrities, including Lily Cole.
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Givenchy Appointment The president of LVMH, Bernard Arnault, caused a stir when he appointed McQueen head designer at Givenchy in 1996, succeeding John Galliano. Upon arrival, McQueen insulted the founder by calling him “irrelevant”. His first couture collection with Givenchy was unsuccessful, with even McQueen telling Vogue in October 1997 that the collection was “crap”. He toned down his designs at Givenchy, but continued to indulge his rebellious streak, causing controversy in autumn 1998 with a show which included spraying paint over white cotton dresses and double amputee model Aimee Mullins striding down the cat walk on intricately carved wooden legs. Givenchy designs released by Vogue Patterns during this period may be credited to the late designer.He stayed with Givenchy until March 2001, when the contract he said was “constraining his creativity” ended.
Company By the end of 2007, Alexander McQueen had boutiques in London, New York, Los Angeles, Milan and Las Vegas. Celebrity patrons, including Nicole Kidman, Penélope Cruz, Sarah Jessica Parker and Rihanna, J-Pop Queens such as Ayumi Hamasaki, Namie Amuro, and Koda Kumi have frequently been spotted wearing Alexander McQueen clothing to events. Björk, Ayumi Hamasaki and Lady Gaga have often incorporated his pieces in their music videos. By wearing his designs, celebrities such as the above-mentioned have further increased the notability of the his brand.
Accomplishments Some of McQueen’s accomplishments included being one of the youngest designers to achieve the title “British Designer of the Year”, which he won four times between 1996 and 2003; he was also awarded the CBE and named International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers in 2003. December 2000 saw a new partnership for McQueen, with the Gucci Group
VOGUE | Lee Alexander McQueen Savage, beautiful life...
“MY COLLECTIONS HAVE ALWAYS B E E N AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL, A L O T T O D O W I T H M Y O W N S E X U ALI TY AND COMING TO TERMS WITH THE PERSON I AM.”
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VOGUE | Lee Alexander McQueen Savage, beautiful life...
“LOV E LOOK S NOT WI TH T HE E Y ES, BUT WIT H THE MIND” Shakespeare
(words tattooed on his arm)
acquiring 51% of his company and McQueen serving as Creative Director. Plans for expansion included the opening of stores in London, Milan and New York, and the launch of his perfumes Kingdom and, most recently, My Queen. In 2005, McQueen collaborated with Puma to create a special line of trainers for the shoe brand. In 2006 he launched McQ, a younger, more renegade lower priced line for men and women. McQueen became the first designer to participate in MAC’s promotion of cosmetic releases created by fashion designers. The collection, McQueen, was released on 11 October 2007 and reflected the looks used on the Autumn/ Winter McQueen catwalk. The inspiration for the collection was the Elizabeth Taylor movie Cleopatra, and thus the models sported intense blue, green, and teal eyes with strong black liner extended Egyptian-style. McQueen handpicked the makeup.
Personal life McQueen was openly gay and said he realized his sexual orientation when very young. He told his family when he was 18 and, after a rocky period, they accepted his sexuality. He described coming out at a young age by saying, “I was sure of myself and my sexuality and I’ve got nothing to hide”; “I went straight from my mother’s womb onto the gay parade”. In the summer of 2000, McQueen had a marriage ceremony with his partner George Forsyth, a documentary filmmaker, on a yacht in Ibiza. The marriage was not official, as same-sex marriage in Spain was not legal then. The relationship ended
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VOGUE | Lee Alexander McQueen Savage, beautiful life... VOGUE | Lee Alexander McQueen Savage, beautiful life...
a year later and McQueen and Forsyth maintained a close friendship. He received press attention af ter the May 2007 suicide of international style icon Isabella Blow. Rumors were published that there was a rif t between him and Blow at the time of her death, focusing on McQueen’s under-appreciation of Blow. In response to these rumors, McQueen told an interviewer that he was an accomplished scuba diver and used his passion as a source of inspiration in his designs, including spring 2010’s “Plato’s Atlantis.” Much of his diving was done around the Maldives.
Dea th and memorial McQueen’s death was announced on the afternoon of 11 February 2010. He was found that morning by his housekeeper at his home on Green Street, London W1, hanged. Paramedics were called and they pronounced him dead at the scene. He died days before London Fashion Week, though he was not scheduled to show, and nine days after the death of his mother, Joyce, 75, from cancer. David LaChapelle, a friend of the designer said that McQueen “was doing a lot of drugs and was very unhappy” at the time of his death. McQueen left a note saying “Look af ter my dogs, sorry, I love you, Lee.”
VOGUE | Lee Alexander McQueen Savage, beautiful life...
The Metropolitan Police stated that the death was not suspicious, but did not confirm that the death was a suicide. On 17 February 2010, Westminster Coroner’s Court was told that a post-mortem examination found that McQueen’s death was due to asphyxiation and hanging. The inquest was adjourned until 28 April 2010, where his death was officially recorded as suicide. He had been diagnosed with mixed anxiety and depressive disorder; overdose prior to hanging himself. He had taken drug overdoses in May and July 2009. Prior to hanging himself with his “favorite brown belt”, the inquest recorded that he had slashed his wrists with a ceremonial dagger and a meat cleaver. Coroner Dr. Paul Knapman reported finding “a significant level of cocaine, sleeping pills, and tranquilizers in the blood samples taken after the designer’s death.” Prior to his death he wrote on his Twitter page that his mother had died the day before, adding: “RIP mumxxxxxx.” Four days later he wrote that he had an “a wful week” but said “friends have been great”, adding: “now I have to some how pull myself together”. His mother’s funeral took place on 12 February 2010. McQueen is survived by his father, three sisters, and two brothers. His funeral took place on 25 February 2010 at St. Paul’s Church, Knightsbridge, West London. His ashes were later scattered on the Isle of Skye. The memorial was held for him at Saint Paul’s Cathedral on 20 September 2010. It was attended by Björk, Kate Moss, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Campbell, Stella McCartney and Anna Wintour amongst 2,500 other invited guests. On 18 February 2010, Robert Polet, the president and
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chief executive of the Gucci Group, announced that the Alexander McQueen business would carry on without its founder and creative director. The BBC reported that McQueen had reserved £50,000 ($82,000) of his wealth for his pet dogs so that they can live in the lap of luxury for the rest of their lives. He also bequeathed £100,000 ($164,315) each to four different charities; these include the Battersea Dogs and Cats Home in south London, and the Blue Cross animal welfare charity in Burford, Oxfordshire.
Tributes A dedication by a fan at an Alexander McQueen store after McQueen’s death.On 16 February 2010, pop musician Lady Gaga performed an acoustic, jazz rendition of her hit single “Telephone” and segued into “Dance in the Dark” at the 2010 Brit Awards. During the performance, Gaga honored McQueen, saying, “this is for Alexander McQueen.” She also commemorated McQueen after accepting her award for Best International Artist, Best International Female and Best International Album. Gaga dedicated a song on the special edition of her third album, Born This Way, to him entitled “Fashion of His Love”. Björk sang her rendition of “Gloomy Sunday” at St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. She wore an outfit created by McQueen where many mourners came to gather. Various other musicians, who were friends and collaborators with
VOGUE | Lee Alexander McQueen Savage, beautiful life...
McQueen, commentated on his death, including Kanye West, Courtney Love, and Katy Perry. In March 2010, a visual tribute to McQueen and his “manta” design was organized featuring Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Annabelle Neilson, among others. The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City hosted a posthumous exhibition of McQueen’s work in 2011 titled Savage Beauty. Despite being open for only three months, it was one of the most popular exhibitions in the museum’s history. The exhibition was so successful that Alexander McQueen fans and industry professionals worldwide began rallying at Change.org to “Please Make Alexander McQueen’s Savage Beauty a Traveling Exhibition” to bring honor to McQueen and see his vision become a reality: to share his work with the entire world.
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In 1994, he graduated with a Masters in Fashion from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design In 1984, at age 16, he started as an apprentice at Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard
VOGUE | Lee Alexander McQueen Savage, beautiful life...
In 1996, he was assigned as head Designer at Givenchi
In 2007, he had his own company with boutiques in London, New York, Los Angeles, Milan, and Las Vegas
On 17 February 2010, he commits suicide
The Final Show Right before Alexander McQueen’s death he had an eighty percent unfinished autumn/winter collection, 16 pieces, presented during Paris Fashion Week on March 8th 2010, to a select handful of fashion editors in a mirrored, gilded salon at the 18th-century Hôtel de Clermont-Tonnerre. Fashion editors picked his final designs. Editors said the show was hard to watch because it showed how McQueen was obsessed with the afterlife. The clothes had a medieval and religious look. Basic colours that were repetitively used were red, gold and silvers with detailed embroidery. His models were accessorized to show his love for theatrical imagery. “Each piece is unique, as was he,” McQueen’s fashion house said in a statement that was released with the collection. After company owner Gucci confirmed that the brand would continue, McQueen’s long-term assistant Sarah Burton was named as the new creative director of Alexander McQueen in May 2010. In September 2010, Burton presented her first women’s wear collection in Paris.
VOGUE | Lee Alexander McQueen Savage, beautiful life...
“IT IS IMPORTANT TO LOOK AT DEATH BECAUSE IT IS PART OF LIFE. IT IS A SAD THING, MELANCHOLIC BUT ROMANTIC AT T H E S A M E T I M E . I T I S T H E E N D O F A CYCLE , EVERYTHI NG HAS TO END.THE CYCLE OF LIFE IS POSITIVE BEC AUSE IT GIVES ROOM FOR NEW THINGS.”
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