Wine education 2013

Sole Sponsor

SET YOUR COURSE FOR LIFE

Latest trends in wine and spirit education and in the trade 全球紅酒課程及貿易發展 Introduction to major training courses and programmes 不可不知的專業品酒知識 Tips on tasting, selecting and appreciation of wine 品嚐杯中物的美學及奧妙

www.educationpost.com.hk/wine-education

Foreword by the sponsor Berry Bros. & Rudd is Britain's oldest wine and spirit merchant, having traded from the same shop in London for over 315 years. The company’s colourful history encompasses wines on board the Titanic, supplying smugglers running alcohol into Prohibition-era America, and sheltering Napoleon III in cellars beneath the shop. Today the company has offices outside of the UK in Japan, Singapore and Hong Kong. We are also honoured to hold two Royal Warrants for H.M. The Queen and H.R.H. The Prince of Wales, which continues the tradition of supplying UK’s royalty.

Berry Bros. & Rudd’s commitment to wine education has been a long standing one, believing in its value to such an extent that they are one of the few wine merchants who have two dedicated, wine education teams based in the UK and Hong Kong.

We have eight Masters of Wine, the highest number of any wine merchant, who are able to support our educational programmes.

Wine education requires some investment, mostly defined as time. However, with this investment comes reward, even for a beginner attending their first class. Insight can be gained from just one session and starts a journey that includes theoretical and experiential learning as well as personal achievement.

Participating in wine courses is not just for wine buffs and investors. In fact, for those just starting out, the positive value of education extends to multiple areas of everyday life. At a business level, when budgets apply, how do you select a wine to impress? When socialising, you can surprise your friends and expand their repertoire by offering unexplored varietie. On a personal level, buying a wine for home being assured that you are getting what you expect. Wine education provides confidence and in turn, a sense of empowerment as you understand your own stylistic preferences and learn to trust your own palate.

Wine is a hobby of curiosity, and one that can lead you down multiple paths of experiential learning, often extending beyond wine to whisky, port and sherry. Even a small amount of knowledge allows you to express the delights of a great bottle of wine, and equally, understand those that disappoint.

Engaging in wine classes, regardless of your knowledge, you will come to understand a fundamental belief that underpins our company philosophy , that everything you should look for in a wine or spirit comes down to one simple question: ‘Is it good to drink?’

Amanda Parker Education Consultant Berry Bros. & Rudd.

CONTENTS Wine Education 2013

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Feature

Sole Sponsor

SET YOUR COURSE FOR LIFE

Latest trends in wine and spirit education and in the trade 全球紅酒課程及貿易發展

Hong Kong and China wine buffs get serious 中港學酒風氣濃

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Introduction to major training courses and programmes 不可不知的專業品酒知識 Tips on tasting, selecting and appreciation of wine 品嚐杯中物的美學及奧妙

WSET The Wine and Spirit Education Trust 葡萄酒與烈酒基金會 www.educationpost.com.hk/wine-education

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Berry Bros. & Rudd

Learning from the best 向最好的學習

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China Market

Development of wine education in China 中國紅酒教育發展

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Tasting

A beginner’s guide to wine tasting and appreciation 初學者入門指南

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The Business Refined mind to deal with wine 心思細密迎挑戰 進口酒商機無限

Wine Education 2013 is published by Education Post, South China Morning Post Publishers Ltd in partnership with Berry Bros. & Rudd.

All rights reserved.

Cover photo: K. Y. Cheng

Wine Education 2013

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Feature Photo: NYT

Hong Kong and China wine buffs get serious - Anna Healy Fenton

R

emember when it was enough to swirl your wine around, give it a quick sniff to look knowledgeable, and then get down to the serious business of drinking it?

You can’t get away with that now. These days, you must really know your wine or risk losing your social “street cred”.

Houghton Lee, chairman of the Society of Wine Educators Hong Kong chapter, says there is a new level of interest now, both here and on the mainland.

People attending specialist training courses may want to sell wine or enter the trade and a lot are looking to change careers, Lee says. Many more are hobbyists or doing it because of peer pressure. “You know, the boss talks about wine, so they need to learn. A lot of people are like that,” he adds, noting that wine education now attracts people of every age and from across the professional spectrum.

Lee recently returned from taking a group from his Hong Kong chapter to sample the wines of Ningxia, north west of Xi’an. This area of China has caught international attention. “Whenever Jancis Robinson mentions wine in China, she only mentions Ningxia,” he says. Of the mainland’s many wine producing regions, experts seemingly think Ningxia has the most potential.

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Some wine makers there are local, some foreign, but the former mainly train in France or Australia. Local government officials are very supportive, having spotted that the wine industry has a good future. They are ready to invest and do public relations for the province, and hosted the first meeting of the Organisation of International Viniculture (OIV) in September.

“

Whenever Jancis Robinson mentions wine in China, she only mentions Ningxia

”

Lee believes that tastes in wine are being heavily influenced by the various education bodies. In the past, connoisseurs liked wine because it tasted good, so they bought. But now, he says, drinkers will give you a reason. Even at a private dinner, they will mention tannins, body, different flavours. “If you don’t talk about that, other people don’t respect you.”

Now, it seems that wine circle snobbery has escalated to the point where you must be able to articulate your

Feature When first starting to learn about wine, Lee began, like many others in Hong Kong, with WSET, the most dominant group. Since then, different wine programmes have been introduced, such as the Court of Master Sommeliers, though many taking that course are professionals. “It is very practical. For example, you must be able to open a bottle of champagne correctly, pour eight flutes and then carry them to the examiner, all the while answering questions,” says Lee. Most novices start with WSET, who give a good grounding and have a number of centres in Hong Kong.

There is also the Society of Wine Educators, which offers exams and home and online study.

Studying wine at home is very popular because people can be too busy to go to classes. There is something of a paradox, though, when the idea should be to enjoy wine with friends, not just read about it.

The mainstream options for gaining a broad-based wine education will cover most of the main countries, but look out for region-specific courses too. And please, please, focus on the drinking and don’t turn into a crashing wine bore. A little knowledge can be a very tedious thing.

opinions. The onslaught of precise descriptions and purple prose may well swamp any possible pleasure.

“It’s very challenging, it’s a lot of pressure,” Lee says.

“That is how the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) basically changed the consumer culture in Hong Kong.” He has advised producers in China of this trend. “I said they should keep it in mind, it may happen to them.” The potential for pretentious wine bores in a country the size of China is, indeed, terrifying.

In general, after five “mad” years, Xi Jinping’s drive against gifts and lavish spending has cooled the mainland wine market in the last 18 months. But the cult of officials expecting wine as a gift dies hard. “The more expensive the wine, the more people will buy it. They don’t care, they won’t drink it, they just give it to officials,” Lee says.

“Sometimes the officials won’t drink it; they just keep it or give it to another official.” But since Xi Jinping clamped down, the market has dropped, especially for poorer quality wine, he adds. China’s wine consumers are also becoming more mature and know the real price of wine. Some vineyards price their wine very reasonably, Lee says, adding his hope that mainland wine prices settle down to a less chaotic and more understandable level soon, even if overall wine sales flatten out for a while.

Wine Education 2013

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Feature Photo: May Tse

中港學酒風氣濃 翻譯：Ben Kwok 搖一搖手中酒杯，聞一聞杯中物，這樣佯裝作識品酒， 就能蒙混過去嗎？如今這一套已不敷應用，若非真正了 解葡萄酒，你的社交地位亦岌岌可危。

也漸趨成熟，知道葡萄酒真正的價值。他認為有些酒莊 會合理地標價，他也盼望葡萄酒業界在價錢上能盡快達 成共識，不再有混亂情況出現。

國際葡萄酒教育家協會香港分會（Society of Wine Educators Hong Kong chapter）會長李厚敦 （Houghton）表示，中港兩地都開始認真對待葡萄酒。

那麼，應該怎樣開始你的葡萄酒教育呢？Houghton跟許 多香港人一樣，先從WSET開始，那是最強大的一群。自 此以後，不同的葡萄酒課程相繼面世，如「世界侍酒大 師協會」（Court of Master Sommeliers）考試，而報讀 的都是專業的侍酒師。「考試是很技術性的，例如你必 須正確地開一枝香檳，倒滿八杯，然後拿到考官面前， 還要一直回答考官的問題。」Houghton說。

新的「品酒專家」從何而來？Houghton指出，有不少參 加葡萄酒培訓課程的人，都希望能透過課程繼而做葡萄 酒的生意，這些人大多是中途轉業的。當然，亦有不少 參加者本身是葡萄酒愛好者，也有些是因朋輩壓力去報 讀課程。「現在的老闆都愛談葡萄酒，所以他們都需要 學習。」他補充說。葡萄酒教育吸引不同年紀的人參與， 包括年輕及年長的專業人士如醫生和律師。 Houghton剛帶領了一隊香港分會的學員到西安西北部的 寧夏交流，並提取葡萄酒樣本回來。「每當著名酒評家 Jancis Robinson提到中國的葡萄酒，她只提及寧夏。」 Houghton說。中國諸多釀酒地區之中，專家似乎認為寧 夏最有潛質。 寧夏有些釀酒師是外國人，也有些曾在法國或澳洲培訓 過的本地人。中國政府官員也非常支持酒業的發展，因 為他們都應為葡萄酒大有前途。他們不斷為這行業注入 新的元素，也著重公共關係，例如，他們剛於九月舉行 了第一屆的國際葡萄與葡萄酒組織（Organisation of International Viniculture）會議。 Houghton相信，葡萄酒的品味都深受葡萄酒教育機構影 響。在以前，人們喜歡葡萄酒的原因是它的味道；但如 今，喝葡萄酒的人總會給你一個原因，即使是在私人的 晚宴場合，他們會提到丹寧、酒體、不同的味道。他的 觀察是：「如果不談這些，別人不會尊重你。 「在過去，他們都很能喝葡萄酒，但未必能告訴你喜歡 葡萄酒的準確原因。」但如今，整個葡萄酒圈子都要求 懂得談酒。而這堆花言巧語，反而蓋過了原本對葡萄酒 的欣賞。Houghton說：「這很具挑戰性，也有很大壓力。 這就是葡萄酒與烈酒教育信託基金會課程（WSET） 如何 改變了香港的消費文化。」他提醒中國的生產商留意這 趨勢。「我請他們小心留意，這也可能發生在他們身上 。」如果中國這麼大的國家充滿偽酒呆，這會是一件多 麼恐怖的事。 習近平反送禮之風，使內地葡萄酒巿場近18個月來起了 冷風。但官員期望收到名貴酒品的習慣卻不容易改變。 「酒越貴，就越多人買。他們都不在乎，因為他們不會 拿來喝。」Houghton說：「他們只買來餽贈給官員。有 時官員自己也不喝，留來送給其他官員。」但在習近平 的管治下，劣質酒的巿場立刻下跌。中國買酒的消費者

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Houghton指出，葡萄酒教育家協會（Society of Wine Educators）也有認證考試和遙距網上學習。遙距網上學 習很普遍，因為人們太忙碌，難以於固定時間上課。 但這似乎不太明智，因為品酒講求與友好一同品嚐，而 不只是閱讀理解。 請千萬記得，要享受喝葡萄酒，不要成為酒呆。知識有 時會使事情變得很乏味。

WSET Photo: AFP, Jonathan Wong

The Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) - Assiye Keskin

F

ood and wine appreciation has become increasingly popular in Hong Kong, attracting interest from business professionals and executives as a means of socialising and learning something at the same time.

The abolition of wine duty in Hong Kong has opened doors, making the city a regional hub for people involved in every side of the business. This has created growing demand for more in-depth knowledge about wine and how the industry works, creating a new generation of sophisticated connoisseurs.

The Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET), an organisation operating in over 45 countries specialising in wine education for business and pleasure, is playing a full part in this. It offers accredited courses taught by professional tutors at five different levels. The courses feature a series of lectures and guided wine-tasting sessions, making the experience both educational and fun.

The three courses at WSET Level 1 allow students to choose according to their own interest and need. There is an Award in Wines, an Award in Wine Service and an Award in Spirits. Each one-day course provides basic knowledge about the main categories of wine and spirits, pairing with food, and techniques to correctly care for and handle equipment for wine service. Each course also requires students to take a concluding multiple-choice exam and, for the Award in Wines and Award in Spirits, it is necessary to complete respectively a food and wine matching exercise and a role-play scenario as if serving in a restaurant.

Level 2 aims to develop an in-depth knowledge of key wine and spirit varieties and regions. These courses are ideal for professionals in the hospitality industry, as well

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as in wine retailing and wholesaling. If taking the Award in Wines and Spirits, participants will learn about key grape varieties and where they are grown and about the principal varieties of spirits. The Award in Spirits gives comprehensive training in spirits and liqueurs, covering their history, production and styles. Students have to pass a 50-question multiple-choice paper to qualify.

Level 3 is an advanced course designed to provide detailed understanding of the principal wines and spirits enjoyed around the world and their commercial importance. Students will learn to identify product style and quality using the WSET Advanced Systematic Approach to Tasting. The course also deals with wine production, including maturation and bottling. It is suitable for those who have passed a WSET Level 2 examination or equivalent. At the end of the course, students are expected to pass an examination to receive the Award.

WSET Level 4, the Diploma in Wines and Spirits, and Level 5, the Honours Diploma, are intended for advanced practitioners and wine professionals who want to go into greater depth. The former puts more emphasis on the managerial and marketing side of the wine business, while the latter centres on an individual research project which enables students to develop skills in research, evaluation and analysis on a relevant subject of their choice before submitting a 5,000-word essay upon completion of the course.

Wine is an age-old industry only recently making a significant splash in Asia. Anyone who is interested can start to discover all that wine and the wine industry have to offer by signing up for an appropriate WSET course.

WSET

葡萄酒與烈酒基金會 (WSET) 翻譯：Ben Kwok

在香港，越來越多人喜歡鑑賞食品和酒，商界專業人士和 行政人員以此作為交際方法，與業務夥伴聯繫。香港取消 酒稅後，向國際酒業敞開了門戶，成為生產商和企業家等 的一個區域樞紐。因此，市場對深入了解酒和酒業的鑑酒 專家，有越來越大的需求。 葡萄酒與烈酒基金會（Wine and Spirit Education Trust， WSET）是一間在超過45個國家營運的機構，專門提供關 於酒的教育，滿足人們在商務和個人上的需要。該機構提 供認可的課程，由專業的導師授課，程度分為五級。授課 形式包括連串的講課及交流，學習與樂趣並重。

一級證書課程 WSET一級課程有三種：葡萄酒證書課程（Award in Wines）、葡萄酒服務課程（Award in Wine Service）及 烈酒課程（Award in Spirits）。普遍來說，該三種為時 一天的課程，分別為學員提供基礎的知識，從品嚐紅酒及 烈酒的入門及產地特色、食物搭配、到為餐飲或烈酒行業 新人，提供必須的技能訓練。如要取得證書，三種課程的 學生都需要完成選擇題的考試及課堂練習。

二級證書課程 旨在使學員對主要的葡萄酒和烈酒品種及特質有更深入的 認識，WSET二級葡萄酒及烈酒課程（Award in Wines and Spirits）及二級烈酒課程（Award in Spirits）除了適 合從事餐旅服務業，以及酒的零售和批發的專業人員報讀，

也適合那些想對酒有全面了解的愛酒人士。葡萄酒及烈酒 課程包括講課和嚐酒，由一名專業導師帶領，著重教授各 種葡萄酒和烈酒的特徵、葡萄栽培及釀造過程等。而烈酒 課程則提供全面的烈酒和利口酒的知識，提高從業者的專 業水準。兩課程的學員，將在課程結束時參加選擇題的考 試，合格後將獲發二級證書。

葡萄酒與烈酒認證三級 WSET三級葡萄酒高級認證課程旨在詳細分析世界主要的 葡萄酒和烈酒，以及它們在商業上對國際酒業的重要性。 學員將學習如何利用名為WSET Advanced Systematic Approach to Tasting 的嚐酒法，識別不同產品的類型和 品質。課程亦探討酒的生產過程，包括成熟和裝瓶。課程 適合已通過WSET二級考試或具同等程度的人士。在課程 結束時，學員將參加考試，合格後將獲發得WSET葡萄酒 與烈酒三級證書。

第四及第五級深造課程 WSET四級葡萄酒與烈酒文憑課程（WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines and Spirits）及WSET五級榮譽文憑課 程（Level 5 Honours Diploma），專為想成為「葡萄酒 大師」及晉身酒業管理層的愛酒人士而設。葡萄酒與烈酒 文憑課程的知識難度達專家級別，著重培訓學員的課內及 課外的全方位知識及技術應用，而五級榮譽文憑課程則是 一研究課程，學生需要獨自完成一篇約5,000字（英文） 的研究報告，方能獲得這WSET最高級別的證書。 Wine Education 2013

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Berry Bros. & Rudd Photos: Berry Bro. & Rudd, Nora Tam

( Advertorial )

Learning from the best – Berry Bros. & Rudd - Vickie Chan

W

ith over 315 years of history, two Royal Warrants and eight Masters of Wine on the staff, Berry Bros. & Rudd is Britian’s original wine and spirit merchant. Still run by the founding families, the company maintains its long-held belief that the best way to find what you are looking for in a wine or spirit is by asking “Is it good to drink?”

The Hong Kong wine market has changed significantly since the abolition of duty on wine in 2008. This has encouraged the sale of a wider choice of varieties and spurred consumer demand. Learning about wine has also become increasingly popular with many people now taking the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) courses which were first established for members of the trade, according to Amanda Parker, Education Consultant for Berry Bros. & Rudd.

Advantages that come with an understanding of wine include making better choices, being more confident when

Amanda Parker

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entertaining important clients, and being able to contribute knowledgeably to any dinner party conversation. “Once you start learning, it is hard to stop,” Parker says. The company won the International Wine Challenge award as Wine Educator of the Year 2012 and has been commended for adding sophistication to learning and for taking a less classroom-based more friendly approach to teaching. Parker says that experience is often more important for individuals than the qualification and, in particular, anyone planning to invest in wine should start learning early. “It is like buying stocks – you want more than just the advice you receive,” she says. “Being able to understand quality increases your enjoyment. You can assess the inherent character of a wine instead of assessing a label.”

For both novices and experienced tasters, there are benefits to learning with Berry Bros. & Rudd. The information presented is not formulaic and is suited to the level of the class to keep everything fresh and interesting.

The company also prides itself on making a clear distinction between selling and education, seeing the latter as a value-added service. “We choose exceptionally high-quality examples from over 4,000 wines in store,” Parker says. “With about 12 participants in each class, we have one of the lowest student to tutor ratios in Hong Kong. It is a uniquely colourful, personal experience, with opportunities to ask and share stories.”

Classes range from introductory level, run by locally-based educators, to those which follow the WSET syllabus.

Another option is to take specialist classes with a Master of Wine like Jasper Morris, who Parker calls a fountain of knowledge.

Berry Bros. & Rudd At a walk-around wine-tasting event, up to 30 wines from a specific producer or region are compared and contrasted.

Wine advisors from Berry Bros. & Rudd are there to advise guests in a relaxed environment.

More intimate fine wine dinners, taking a certain theme, offer older, rarer wines which clients might own but have not opened due to their value. “Such occasions are a balance between education and pleasure, chatting with friends and discussing impressions with a Master of Wine,” Morris says.

Jasper Morris Master of Wine, Burgundy Director of Berry Bros. & Rudd

Berry Bros. & Rudd works with eight Masters of Wine based in Britain, each of whom specialises in a different region and, typically, visits there every four months.

These individuals also host mid- to advanced-level Masterclasses, reviewing in detail a selection of six to eight wines from a particular region or producer. “I might focus on a specific village, where soils can vary from vineyard to vineyard,” says Morris, a Burgundy expert.

There are also opportunities to meet producers who provide specific information about a region’s style of wine, vintages, and how styles change. “They are passionate and what they share is very personal,” Parker says.

“Choose a course with a producer if you want a sense of immediacy and intimacy with the wine.” These sessions also give an opportunity for vertical tastings - comparing vintages to experience how climate change and weather patterns can impact the wine.

As Hong Kong’s tastes in wine become more sophisticated, Burgundy has found a new level of popularity. Master of Wine Jasper Morris has witnessed that change.

“Seven years ago, people were interested in investments and drinking Bordeaux, which is more stable and has reliable châteaux profiles. Now, it is all about the wine itself. People have matured and moved on to Burgundy,” he says.

When it comes to teaching, Morris has learned to adapt.

“My classes used to be more general. Now, we zoom in on a producer and how they work, how that affects the taste,” he says. “I have to assess how much students know and check if I’m giving enough or too much detail. It is important to react to each class.”

Author of Inside Burgundy, Morris spends most of his time in that part of France, which is regarded as one of the most “complicated” wine regions. “With so many vineyards, which are often split among several producers, there are lots of variations.”

Understanding how to taste wine is fundamental to appreciate the flavours of Burgundy and the value in each bottle. “Sometimes, the biggest surprise is finding a hidden gem at a lower price point,” Morris says. “This is a subject for curious people; I learn new perspectives from teaching it.”

Contact: Website: www.bbr.com Tel: +852 2511 2811 E-mail: hkenquiries@bbr.com

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Berry Bros. & Rudd ( Advertorial )

向最好的學習 - Berry Bros. & Rudd 翻譯：Ben Kwok 超過三百年歷史的Berry Bros. & Rudd 擁有兩個皇家認證及 八位葡萄酒大師坐陣，實為英國歷史最悠久的葡萄酒及烈酒 商。今天，公司除了仍然由始創人家族經營外，亦維持他們 一直堅守的信念－選擇葡萄酒和烈酒最要緊的問題是：「該 酒好喝嗎？」

集中於討論某一村莊的葡萄酒，那裏可能每一個葡萄園的土 壤都有所不同。」Parker進一步解釋。 製造商也會到訪，他們會介紹某地區葡萄酒的特色、佳釀及 變化。「他們很有熱誠，所以分享的都是個人的經驗。如果 你想立刻跟葡萄酒有貼身的認識，就要選擇上製造商的課。」 Parker建議說。這也讓人能縱向式地品酒，比較不同佳釀在 天氣變化下的影響。

香港自2008年取消葡萄酒酒稅後，巿場出現重大改變，除 了有更多不同種類葡萄酒的供應及需求增長外，葡萄酒課程 亦不斷變得普及。Berry Bros. & Rudd 教育顧問Amanda Parker指出，現甚受大眾歡迎的葡萄酒及烈酒教育基金會 （WSET）課程，其實最初是為了貿易原因而設立。深入了 解紅酒有不少好處，包括為自己選擇更好的葡萄酒、跟重要 顧客應酬時更有自信、以及有更好的閒聊話題。Parker也承 認，「當你開始學習，就很難停下來。」 Berry Bros. & Rudd 透過精心設計、主張「少一點課堂學習， 多一點親切的體驗」的學習課程，贏得國際葡萄酒挑戰賽 2012年度葡萄酒教育獎。Parker表示這種學習形式的經驗， 比證書來得重要，亦十分適合投資者學習：「就像買股票一 樣，你希望得到更多的回報，而不是一堆堆的建議。」 沒有熱誠，單是接受教育的用處不大。Parker表示：「了解 葡萄酒的質素能使你能更享受它，你可以明白葡萄酒的內在 特性，而不只是認識它的品牌或標籤。」在Berry Bros. & Rudd 學習葡萄酒，對初學者或老手都有好處。「我們的課 堂會配合不同學生的程度，不會公式化。」酒商亦將銷售與 教育分割開來－教育是增值服務。「我們會從超過4,000種 葡萄酒中，選出最高質素的酒作課堂示範。」 Berry Bros. & Rudd 的課程每班約有12人。Parker指出，「這 是香港其中一間師生比例最低的學院，使師生之間能交流及 分享個人經驗。」課堂程度有由註本地的導師教授的基礎班 至WSET程度。他們亦有提供專家課堂，由Parker稱為知識 泉源的葡萄酒大師Jasper Morris MW教授便是其中一個例子。 「品酒會」能吸引初學者及專家。品酒會讓人在輕鬆的環境 中品嚐並比較約30種由某一生產商出產的酒，或單一地區 的葡萄酒。葡萄酒顧問以及葡萄酒大師會為客人提供意見及 顧問服務。而「高級葡萄酒晚宴」會提供陳年及較罕有的葡 萄酒；雖然客人也可能擁有這些酒，但因為其價值不菲而還 未品嚐過。「這樣能達到教育與享受的平衡，一邊跟朋友聊 天，一邊跟葡萄酒大師討論葡萄酒。」Morris說。 Berry Bros. & Rudd 亦有跟葡萄酒大師合作，每位都有其專 長的領域，通常每四個月便到訪一次，參與特別的活動。 中級至高級程度的大師課程會由葡萄酒大師指導，堂上會仔 細分析某地區或生產商的六至八種不同的酒。學員能透過到 訪大師學習許多細節。布根地酒專家Morris指出，「我可能

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Wine Education 2013

Jasper Morris (左) 和 Amanda Parker

Jasper Morris – 布根地葡萄酒大師 香港對葡萄酒越來越有要求，法國布根地（Burgundy）的 酒也越來越受歡迎。專家Jasper Morris MW見證著這樣的變 化。「七年前，人們十分喜歡投資及喝波爾多酒，因為他們 認為這些酒莊穩定可靠。可是，現在大家都更著重葡萄酒本 身的質素，成熟的知識使他們喜歡了布根地酒。」布根地酒 有很多不同變化；要逐一了解它們，你必須親自品嚐。 Morris會一邊教學，一邊調節課程。「以往我的課程比較多 概論。現在，我會專注解說某一生產廠如何運作，及其運作 又如何影響酒的味道。」他解釋說。但有時候，班上會有新 手加入。「我要評估學員本身對葡萄酒的認識有多少，以調 節課堂內容會否太深或太淺。每一班都需要調節，這很重要。」 著有著作《Inside Burgundy》的Morris，大部分時間都在 布根地這最複雜的葡萄酒地區。「那裏有很多葡萄園，而葡 萄園又由不同的生產商經營，所以這裏的酒很多元化。」 他認為要了解布根地酒，要先懂得品酒，這樣才能明白每瓶 酒不同的味道和價值。「有時會在較便宜的葡萄酒裏找到滄 海遺珠，這讓人感到驚喜。」事實上，Morris認為每次教授 布根地大師班都能得出不同的結論。「這課堂是給好奇的人 上的 － 我每次授課都能學到新的觀點。」 Tel: +852 2511 2811 E-mail: hkenquiries@bbr.com

A chance to combine learning with pleasure.

Read more about our Wine Education classes.

www.bbr.com

China Market Photo: Mark Ralston

Development of wine education in China - Debra Meiburg

F

or many people, the concept of wine education makes about as much sense as sex education - once you get the basic idea, all you have to do is go for it.

That is, it doesn't quite seem like a valid area of study.

But how then to explain the thousands of Chinese people who now eagerly sign up each year to attain some level of formal wine certification?

ever-consistent Yellow Tail, there's no telling whether that pleasurable experience can be replicated, because of vintage variation and even bottle variation.

Unless you stick to wines costing the same as any other beverage, taking a punt on a bottle that could contain anything from heavenly elixir to vinegar (to your taste) is an expensive gamble.

Certainly, the frantic spread of the wine trade through China accounts for part of it - those able to demonstrate a level of wine competency often find themselves at a distinct advantage in the job market. For some, it is even a ticket out of their second- or third-tier city.

However in Hong Kong, more than anywhere, there has also been a rash of people from outside the wine world filling the coffers of many a wine school with their legal tender.

The key words in that sentence are "to your taste".

While wine education purportedly teaches us to evaluate wine objectively, for anyone outside the trade, it's much more to do with exploration, truly learning what you do and don't like, and how to find that again in other bottles. Otherwise, you may never venture beyond the first brand you enjoyed. Is that a problem? If that brand is Lafite, and all of your countrymen feel the same way about it (and have more cash than you do to support their habit), it could be.

Although whether wine education is good business has already been answered by the market, those of us who haven't yet shelled out may wonder whether it is necessary. Wine can be quite simple, really: you like some, you don't like others. But as master of wine John Hoskins said in an interview with the Guild of Sommeliers, many consumers who claim, "I at least know what I like and what I don't," actually don't.

"They know what they like once they taste it," he countered, but unless that consumer is drinking the

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The popularity of wine education in China is explicable.

Newly wealthy Chinese wish to acquire the accoutrements of western culture and the expertise that goes with it.

Cynics see wine titles such as CSW (Certified Specialist of Wine) and WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust) as yet another set of letters for the freshly minted to add to their fold-out business cards.

China Market

中國紅酒教育發展 翻譯: Ben Kwok 對很多人來說，紅酒教育和性教育一樣 – 當你認識基本 功後，餘下的便是實踐！但，何以解釋每年數以千計的中 國人都拼命考取不同段數的葡萄酒證書? 紅酒貿易在中國的普及及發展當然是箇中原因，因為認識 葡萄酒越多，便能在求職市場佔盡上風。對部分人來說， 這是他們離開二、三線城市的門券。不過，香港較其他地 方明顯的事，很多門外漢會蜂擁而上，並以進入紅酒學校 為榮。 紅酒教育是否一門好生意市場自有定論，但不少未有付鈔 上課的人會懷疑其必要性。其實紅酒也很簡單：你喜歡一 些，便會不喜歡其他。但正如紅酒大師約翰•賀根斯 （John Hoskins）接受《待酒師指南》（Guild of Sommeliers）的訪問時說，很多顧客自以為「我至少知 道自己喜歡甚麼和不喜歡甚麼」，其實不然。 「他們一試便知自己喜歡什麼。」他反問，除非顧客飲的 是酒質穩定的澳洲黃尾袋鼠（Yellow Tail），否則他們無 法判斷這種享受感是否可以持續，因為釀造的年份和酒樽 的差異會令味覺有差別。」

What we mean by this is that "wine education" need not be academic. Even those of us in the trade are unlikely to find opportunities to apply our knowledge of Portuguese terracing styles.

Context gives wine soul, but too much context can be soul-crushing.

The awful but wonderful truth about wine is that it's complicated - but like that other arena we've alluded to, a little bit of knowledge drastically increases the chances of success. What is important? Wine elements like acidity, tannin and alcohol; how you spot them and why they matter. This provides a foundation to understand your own preferences.

The most common grape varieties and their "flavour profiles" - that is, their typical levels of the elements above, and some characteristic aromas, will have you covered for the whole New World.

Learn a few classic European wine regions and their affiliated grape varieties, and you're a wine geek in the making.

Can all this be learned by curling up with a book at home? Perhaps, but the most crucial part of wine education cannot be: that is, wine is meant to be shared.

味覺是重點，因為一般紅酒教育只是刻意教我們如何客觀 地評酒。對行外人來說，這大概是一次味覺的探險，找尋 你喜歡或不喜歡的，及如何再次找到你喜歡的味道。 否則，你只會停留於你享受的第一瓶紅酒。 在國內紅酒教育受歡迎的原因可以理解的。新晉的國內富 豪渴望可以一嚐西方文化點滴，並學習品嚐的技巧。 有人覺得，剛畢業的葡萄酒專家及葡萄酒與烈酒教育信託 基金會（WSET）學生，可以把這些名銜加入他們的商業 名片。我們業內人士對這現象出現絕不介意，只要他們學 到的是正確知識－能更認識我們的產品有何不可？ 紅酒的知識有助釋放它的靈魂，但太多則會嚇怕人。這個 可怕但精彩的真相也有點複雜，一如其他知識領域一樣， 只要有一點紅酒知識，便能大大提高成功率。重點是: 如 何分辨紅酒的酸性、單寧和酒精含量和他們的重要性，便 會幫助我們找到心中的佳釀。 最普遍的葡萄類別和他們的「味道檔案」﹐亦即是酸性、 單寧和酒精含量的一般程度，和一些特色的香味，會引領 你進入美好新世界。只要學懂一些經典歐洲釀酒區和有關 他們的葡萄種類，都有助你成為劉伶。 上述這些知識是否可以在家自修出來? 也許可以吧，但紅 酒教育的最關鍵始終是：酒是用來分享的。

Wine Education 2013

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Tasting Photo: AFP

A beginner’s guide to wine tasting and appreciation

U

nderstanding wine can be intimidating for beginners. There are so many varieties and regions that, at first, it can be difficult to tell a Californian pinot from a Chilean merlot. But learning how to taste wine and recognise the characteristics and differences will increase your enjoyment and help in matching food and wine well. Appreciation involves looking, smelling and, of course, tasting. The combination of smell and taste allows you to discern flavour, and the following basic steps will help turn a beginner into a connoisseur in no time.

Environment First of all, it is important to have the right environment for wine tasting so that impressions aren’t distracted by other factors. Cooking smells, perfumes, or other strong odours in the room can affect your perceptions. Also, red wine should be served at room temperature in a rounded glass which allows the wine to “breathe” or “aerate”. Oxygen from the air interacts with the wine, enabling flavour and aroma to subtly emerge.

Traditionally, white wine is served chilled in narrow, long-stemmed glasses to preserve a crisp, clean flavour. In the case of a sparkling wine, such as champagne, the glass is even narrower to keep the wine sparkling longer. Ideally, when drinking white wine, you should hold the stem of the glass to prevent heat from the hand raising the temperature of the wine.

Look The next step is to observe the wine’s colour and intensity. The colour indicates its age and the variety of grape. As white wine ages, the colour becomes darker.

Young white wines can be a very pale straw colour and become more golden as they mature. Red wines can vary from a light strawberry to a deep ruby colour,

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- Assiye Keskin depending on the grape, acidity and age.

Smell Before you start smelling the wine, you should gently swirl it in the glass to allow oxygen to mix with the wine, thereby releasing the bouquet. Then gently hold your nose to the glass, sniffing the wine and stepping back to let the smells settle. Most wines will have something reminiscent of fruits, flowers, herbs and other scents, which are characteristic of particular wine varietals.

White wine aromas can resemble stone fruits like peach and apricot, while red wines tend to evoke dark fruit aromas, such as berries, cherries and plums.

Taste Tasting wine involves using all the taste buds in your mouth, so it is important to take a sip and not swallow immediately. You can taste sweetness, bitterness, sourness, and specific fruit and other flavours. Acidity can also be tasted, usually in white wines and some lighter-style red wines. Tannin frequently exists in red wines which, in high quantities, can dry the palate.

Lastly, there is the aftertaste. This is the overall taste and balance of the wine which lingers in your mouth.

As you gain more experience trying different wines, your nose and palate will become trained to recognise different characteristics and to appreciate quality.

Ultimately, a good wine is balanced, has depth, and leaves a pleasing aftertaste on the palate. Put simply, it is one that you enjoy drinking. The better you understand wine, the more you will appreciate its subtle flavours and complexities and develop your own personal preferences.

Tasting

初學者入門指南 翻譯：Ben Kwok 對初學者來說，了解酒可能是一件令人生畏的事情。有那 麼多的品種，那麼多的地區：如何將美國加州的皮諾和智 利梅洛區分？學習如何品嚐酒和識別不同品種的特點，你 將更加體會到酒的魔力，並懂得如何享受食物和酒的完美 配搭。品酒是包括看、聞和嚐，氣味和味道的結合，讓你 辨別出滋味如何。以下的幾個基本步驟，有助使初學者變 成「識飲之人」。

開始前的準備 合適的品酒環境相當重要，讓你不會給其他因素分神和影 響感受。室內的烹飪氣味、香水味或其他強烈氣味，都可 影響你對酒的體會。紅酒應在室溫下以圓形玻璃杯盛載， 酒在這種杯子內可以「呼吸」或「通氣」。空氣中的氧氣 與酒互動，促使香味和氣味暴露在空氣中後微妙地變得均 勻。白酒傳統上是冷飲，以長腳窄身的玻璃杯盛載，以保 留一種清爽、清新的味道。至於香檳等汽酒，所用的玻璃 杯更窄身，使酒發泡的時間延長。飲用白酒時，最好拿著 玻璃杯的腳，避免讓手溫使酒變暖。

看 首先觀察酒的顏色和濃度。顏色顯示酒的年齡和葡萄品種。 白酒的顏色隨著年齡增長而變深。年輕的白酒可以是很淡 的稻草色，成熟時變得更金黃，紅酒的顏色可以由淡草莓 色到深紅寶石色，視乎葡萄、酸度和年齡而定。

聞 下一步是聞酒，但首先要輕輕搖晃玻璃杯內的酒，讓氧氣 與酒混合，使酒香釋放出來。讓鼻子輕輕靠近杯子嗅酒， 退後讓氣味定下來。大部分酒都會受到水果、花草和其他 氣味的一些影響，這些是酒品種的特徵。白酒的香氣可以 像桃和杏等有硬核的水果，紅酒往往釋出深色水果的香味， 例如莓果、櫻桃和李子。

嚐 品酒是要使用口內所有味蕾，所以要啜飲一口，不要馬上 吞下。你可以品嚐甜、苦、酸，以及某些水果的味和其他 味道。單寧常存在於紅酒中，大量的單寧可使口腔乾澀。 最後是回味。這是留在你口內整體味道和酒中不同味道之 間的平衡。 當你有更多嘗試各種酒的經驗，嗅覺和味覺將進步至令你 可以識別不同的特徵和欣賞品質。好酒是不同味道均衡融 合，並令人留下美好的回味感覺。簡單地說，好酒就是你 喜歡的酒。你對酒越了解，越會欣賞其微妙的滋味和複雜 性，並確立自己的個人喜好。 Wine Education 2013

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The Business Photo: Felix Wong

Refined mind to deal with wine - Ben Kwok

F

ive years on from the abolition of duty on wine imports, Hong Kong has become an important regional hub for the trade. Still, though, there are all sorts of business challenges and opportunities and it takes something special to stand out from the crowd.

According to Csilla Maróti Fisher, founder and managing director of Veritas Wine, a Hong Kong-based importer of fine Hungarian wines, the local market is very competitive. “The wine you want to sell here either has to be of exceptional quality or at a very low price point. If you are introducing something new – for example, Hungarian, Georgian or Lebanese wines – you have to bring in the best.”

However, Veritas Wine believes it is important to meet the challenge of bringing new products into a market which can seem inundated with the imports from France, which currently account for more than 60 per cent of local wine consumption. “There seems to be a misperception that all French wines are good,” Fisher says. “We want to provide a broader education and more opportunities for wine enthusiasts to learn about other regions and discover what they have to offer.”

For Lucy Anderson, director of WINEHERO, a strategy and brand consultancy for Australian wines, scalability and marketability present the main challenges A major complication for the wine business is that supply of the “product” cannot be scaled to meet higher demand.

“The more premium the wine, the less there is to sell,” Anderson says. “This can be an advantage, but needs to be understood.”

In her view, the key to success is good relationships. “I think it is critical to have strong relationships with an

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extended network of people in all parts of the trade. My business doesn’t focus on importing and selling wine, but without knowing winemakers, local importers and distributors, educators and the media, I wouldn’t have a business.”

Emphasising the need to focus on marketing, Joshua Ng, managing director of Angeleno Wine Merchant, believes the wine business in Hong Kong is in a challenging part of the cycle. Therefore, companies should be ready to cut costs and maintain a stable cash flow.

The crucial thing, Ng believes, is to get a good product from the wineries and consistently maintain a high degree of public awareness in the local market. “In particular, you need a good relationship with the vineyard, and I make sure to visit my wineries once in a while to achieve that.”

Jocelyn Yot, director of Champagne-Asia, sees the biggest challenge stemming from a lack of knowledge about what is a real wine of Champagne. “Most locals think because something is widely marketed, it must be good, or the more expensive, the better,” he says. “This is wrong and can become just a way of ripping off customers.”

Instead, local consumers need to be introduced to "real" grower wine from Champagne, which is produced in small volumes and with the greatest care. There are 15,000 champagne makers but, Yot notes, “good wine is not all about the big brands marketed in magazines or on billboards.”

Taken from the Roundtable section of www.educationpost.com.hk/mba

The Business

心思細密迎挑戰 進口酒商機無限 翻譯: Jie Leung 自五年前撤銷紅酒稅後，香港現已成為紅酒買賣的重要地 區樞紐。即使如此，在充滿挑戰和機遇的商業世界中，惟 有與眾不同才能脫穎而出。 Veritas Wine是以香港為基地的匈牙利紅酒進口商，其創 辦人兼董事總經理Csilla Maroti Fisher指，本港市場競爭非 常激烈。「帶入香港市場的酒，品質要不是最頂尖的，就 是要以低價作招徠。如果你引進新產品，如匈牙利、格魯 吉亞或黎巴嫩紅酒，就一定要入口最優質的。」 然而，現時法國進口紅酒仍備受追捧，佔本地紅酒銷量超 過六成；Veritas Wine認為酒商敢於替市場注入新面孔相 當重要：「大家似乎有種誤解，以為法國來的都是好酒。」 Fisher說。 「我們希望提供更廣泛的教育給紅酒愛好者，並讓他們有 更多機會認識其他地區，發掘當地生產的酒。」

Csilla Maroti Fisher Veritas Wine 創辦人 兼董事總經理

澳洲紅酒品牌策略顧問WINEHERO的總監Lucy Anderson 則指出，紅酒買賣面對的最大困難是其擴充和銷售能力， 同時其供應量也使業務變得更為複雜，她說：「紅酒質量 愈好，數量就愈少，道理上可以是一種優勢，但卻需要其 他人明白。」 對她而言，致勝之道在於良好的人際關係。「最重要的是 在買賣過程的每個關口，都建立起強大的人際網絡。我並 非只是進口和銷售紅酒，如果不認識釀酒師、本地進口商 和分銷商、教育工作者和媒體，整盤生意根本就無法開始。」

Lucy Anderson 澳洲紅酒品牌策略顧問 WINEHERO總監

說到市場營銷，Angeleno Wine Merchant的董事總經理 Joshua Ng相信，香港的紅酒業務已步入最具挑戰性的階 段。因此，企業應做好準備，削減成本之餘，也保有穩定 的現金流。 Joshua Ng認定關鍵在於能從酒莊取得好酒，同時在本地 市場維持頻繁的曝光率。「尤其需要與葡萄園保持良好關 係，例如我每隔一段時間，就會飛往當地造訪其莊園。」

Joshua Ng Angeleno Wine Merchant董事總經理

至於Champagne-Asia 的總監Jocelyn Yot見到的最大挑 戰，則源於買家對真正的香檳了解不足。「很多人以為廣 泛推銷或價格高昂就等於優質美酒，然而這是錯的，客人 更可能因而成為羊牯。」 香檳生產商雖多達15,000家，但Jocelyn提醒：「好酒不 單只有那些在雜誌賣廣告的大品牌。」相反，獨立酒莊精 心釀造小批量的香檳，往往是引領消費者到達另一品酒境 界的門階。

Jocelyn Yot Champagne-Asia 總監

摘自www.educationpost.com.hk/mba Wine Education 2013

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