• Discover the full coast • How to see a Puffin • Return of the Giants • Mudpies and sandcastles – fun for the family
A guide to the East Grampain Coast
Newsletter 2012
CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE North East residents are especially fortunate to have relatively easy access to so much of its coastline. From the mouth of the River North Esk near St .Cyrus, through Aberdeen to Fraserburgh, the diversity of activity, Allan Garvie landscapes, and habitats is unique and in so many aspects so important that we are sometimes not too keen to share our assets with visitors. In some cases, rightly so, as the delicate balance of mankind’s interaction with nature has evolved over centuries. In caring for the flora and fauna on and next to this coastline suggest that some parts require to be conserved and other parts could be enhanced by modest tidying up and still other areas just left alone from human intervention. Avid readers will recall that the previous EGCP Newsletter had within it a readership survey inviting YOU to give us your views about Coastal Issues and the Newsletter itself. From the submitted returns, you liked the very broad range of articles, especially those with excellent photos. You said that these articles encouraged you to visit new stretches of the East Grampian Coast. In addition, most folk said that they read about 60% of the Newsletter’s content and a similar proportion indicated that they would wish to read a web based version as well as a printed copy. Soon, the Partnership will benefit from the skill and enthusiasm of a young person on a short term placement to be filled by Linda Forrest. She will help to update the web-site (www.egcp.org.uk) and also through March and April will be working with others to arrange a programme of visits to areas of the coast from which our wildlife can be safely viewed. These visits will go under the banner of `Knowing your Coast` This forms one part of a Green Tourism Strategy being taken forward by Aberdeenshire Council. It is aimed at informing and enthusing owners and reception staff at all types of accommodation, staff at Tourist Information Centres and also local officers. I hope that you will notice the difference when you call at a Tourist Information Centre seeking some guidance.
THE FULL COAST
Map of East Grampian Coast I hope that you enjoy reading and being informed, and stimulated by the articles in the Newsletter. Allan Garvie, EGCP Chairman
off visiting, as locals will tell you that bad weather seems to have a habit of missing Fraserburgh.
Fraserburgh Situated at the northern limits of the East Grampian coast adjoining the Moray Firth, Fraserburgh, or ‘the Broch’ as it is locally known, has a great deal to offer. On Its eastern edge it has one of the best beaches in Scotland while to the west there is the wonderful Buchan coast with Kinnaird Head providing a wonderful viewpoint.
Interesting fact:
Oxford, Cambridge, Fraserburgh: the great university towns of Britain. Well, in 1600 this was the case. In fact, at this time there were more universities in Aberdeenshire than in England.
Kinnaird Head also hosts the oldest lighthouse on Mainland Scotland and the award winning Museum of Scottish Lighthouses. This is a great place to look for wildlife as birds moving around the headland will come very close to the shore. The proximity of Kinnaird Head to the deep waters of the Southern Trench, a narrow area of deep water 12 miles north of Fraserburgh, makes this a good place to look for Whales and Dolphins. Fraserburgh Harbour is a busy and successful port which lands 12,000 tonnes of shellfish each year. A number of the fish processing plants sell very fresh fish directly to the public via small factory shops. Fraserburgh also holds the record for the fastest wind speed in Britain, recorded at 143 miles per hour. But do not let this put you
Fraserburgh from the dunes at the Waters of Philorth
The Buchan Coast is well worth an extra visit with impressive coastal villages such as Pennan, the setting for the 1983 film Local Hero, and the RSPB reserve at Troup Head. Further west, the Spey Bay Wildlife Centre run by WDCS is a great place to learn about the area and Dolphin behaviour. Waters of Philorth Local Nature Reserve Three miles east of Fraserburgh is the Waters of Philorth, a scenic area for a quick walk in the sand dunes with great views to Fraserburgh across the bay. The river is a good place to look for Kingfishers and rare gulls are possibly roosting near the river mouth.
... their plummage can be bright red, a stunning sight!
The Ythan Estuary becomes one of the best places in the UK to see our often drab winter waders in their full summer glory. One particular bird to look for is the Black Tailed Godwit. In winter, large numbers come to the UK in their winter plumage; which is impressive but not particularly colourful. When the birds head north again in the spring they make brief feeding stops and by this time their plumage can be bright red, a stunning sight!
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To the west
The river is a good place to look for Kingfishers ...
Cairnbulg Perhaps the most noticeable feature of Cairnbulg is the remains of the Sovereign, a fishing vessel that hit rocks just to the north of the village. In summer the rocky beach close to the wreck hosts a Tern colony whilst Eiders and Goldeneye Ducks display offshore.
On the rocks
Godwits in summer At the same time,Terns begin to arrive to nest in their traditional sites, and in some not so traditional sites! If you are in the centre of Aberdeen, and you see noisy birds that look like large swallows heading inland, the chances are that you are seeing Common Terns who have given up their coastal nest site and are heading for the roofs of the buildings at the Kirkhill Industrial Estate, Dyce- a much safer place to start a family! The RSPB`s Reserve at the Loch of Strathbeg is a ‘must see’ for anyone with even a slight interest in wildlife. From the comfortable visitor centre you can see a wide range of water birds. Gulls and terns nest in front of the centre in spring and early summer, visiting migrant waders in the spring and autumn, and probably best of all, the geese in winter.
In the village itself is ‘Maggie’s Hoosie’. The house proud Miss Maggie Duthie made her living preparing fish for market but was not fond of change and kept her house the same for her entire life. Creature comforts, such as electricity and running water were shunned. After her death in the 1950s the house was preserved. Maggie’s Hoosie is now open for visitors during the summer.
WHY EAST GRAMPIAN COAST IS GREAT IN THE SPRING … This is easy to describe with lengthening days, lots of wildlife and the promise of soon being able to swim in the sea. For wildlife, spring is a busy time and May is a particularly good time. The spring migrants arriving before the winter visitors leave mean that this is the month to see lots of species, including some real crackers.
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... the promise of soon being able to swin in the sea.
The Tower Hide at Loch of Strathbeg A number of hides give views over a large expense of marshland as well as over the large dune loch. Otters can be seen on occasion, along with birds of prey, such as March Harrier, Peregrine Falcon and even White Tailed Eagles. For those with access to the internet, an online search for ‘Loch of Strathbeg, Eagle Vs Geese’ will show what can be seen if you are lucky. However, it is more exciting to witness this display at the reserve.
Two Short walks From the visitor centre you can take a gentle stroll through wildlife- friendly farmland along the 700m Tower Pool Trail to a hide which has panoramic views of the reserve. For the more adventurous, there are hides with great views across the loch itself. Access to these, however, is restricted by the MOD Crimond Airfield (8am-4pm). Don’t be put off by this! An intriguing car journey through the airfield and a short 250m walk unexpectedly brings you to each of the two hides, beautifully hidden amongst reedbeds and woodland. Why not bring a packed lunch and spend an hour listening to the sound of thousands of Wigeon calling across the loch and the hundreds of Whooper and Mute Swans come into land during the autumn and winter? Listen in spring as the secretive Water Rail squeals in the reeds, preparing for the breeding season.
Winter view from the Tower Hide
Many waders, terns, sea ducks, divers and rare migrating birds can also be seen throughout the year here. It is possible to park at Rattray Head and at St.Combs so you can complete the entire stretch in one day. Check directly with the Tufted Duck Hotel or Rattray Head B&B/Eco Hostel for information on accommodation and refreshments. Rattray Head Rattray Head, between Fraserburgh and Peterhead is a fantastic place to be on a stormy day in mid-winter! Due to the shape of the coast and the rocky outcrop on which Rattray Head lighthouse is built, the waves can be pretty impressive as they come together from opposite directions and break up and around the lighthouse.
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WALKS AT LOCH OF STRATHBEG
... a fantastic place to be on a stormy day in mid-winter!
The lighthouse was engineered by David Alan Stevenson in 1895 to protect vessels from this dangerous stretch of coast. It was once part of the mainland but during a particularly violent storm, the sand between the lighthouse and the shore washed away to leave the lighthouse standing out at sea as it does today.
A Full Day Walk For those wanting to stretch their legs a little further, the best place is along the reserve’s sandy beaches and dune system.You can access the north end of the reserve beach from the village of St.Combs. The walk begins below the Tufted Duck Hotel and if the tides are right, you can walk along the coastline to Rattray Head. Splashes of colour bring the dunes to life in summer with dark green fritillary butterflies feeding on carpets of dog violets. Look out for Grey Seals all year round and Bottlenose Dolphins which pass along the coastline every week throughout summer.
Footprints to Rattray Lighthouse
Shipwreck on Rattray Head
The dunes in the area are some of the most important in the UK and include those covered in wild flowers, most notably a diverse array of orchids. Walking south along the shore from the lighthouse towards the gas terminal at St Fergus at low tide, four wrecks can be seen within one mile of the lighthouse. The last of the wrecks has been identified as the Excelsior of Laurwig, a 462
tonnage Norwegian barque built in 1869. She ran aground between Scotstown Head and Rattray Head on 22nd November 1881. To get to Rattray Head, go to the villages of Crimond and St Fergus where between the two settlements are the signs for Rattray. Follow the road which is part tarmac, part stone track until the hostel at the road end is reached. Parking for the walk is at the car park at Old Rattray just past the hostel and B&B. From here, follow the path out of the car park, over the dunes and onto the beach.This stretch of coast can be very exposed in the winter so please dress warmly.
Peterhead fish market is the largest in the UK and one of the biggest in Europe. It handles 143,000 tonnes of fish a year, destined for markets across Europe. The story of how the fish gets to the market is best told by the BBC in the excellent Trawlermen series, but to see what happens next I was invited by the Harbour Master to come and have a look.
Fraserburgh fish market in action
Peterhead
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... Peterhead still makes much of its income from fishing ...
The ‘Blue Toon’ is synonymous with fishing being originally settled by fishermen who created the first harbour in 1593. Nobody knows for certain why Peterhead is called the ‘Blue Toon’ but one theory is that it is named after distinctive blue clothing worn by sea-men in days gone by. Whilst many fishing communities have had to turn their back on the sea, Peterhead still makes much of its income from fishing and supplying the oil industry. Peterhead Harbour is the UK’s biggest white and pelagic fish port landing over 90,000 tonnes of fish a year (see feature below). Peterhead Harbour is also expanding its operation and working with the ‘Energetica Partnership’ to increase development over the coming years. However, as anyone seeing the port for the first time will quickly see, it is not all fish and oil; at the south eastern shore an attractive marina and an award winning beach with some of the cleanest water around.
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The ‘toon’ also hosts a number of events such a Peterhead Scottish Week, which takes place in the third Saturday in July each year.Wildlife can be found at the entrance to the Ugie Estuary and all along the coast where there are rare gulls and seabirds such as King Eider.
FROM QUAY TO TABLE Much of the driving force of Peterhead happens behind the closed doors of the fish market. Early one morning in winter I took the chance to have a look. 6 am and I had been up for nearly three hours! The harbour at Peterhead was already busy, with lorries arriving and parking in their specific bay awaiting a cargo of fish.
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... with fishermen and traders alike enjoying the banter.
The Dolphin Café was doing a brisk trade for such an early hour with fishermen and traders alike enjoying the banter. Last night 10 trawlers landed 3766 fish boxes of mainly white fish. In an hour the business would begin in earnest.
Once dressed in the white suit and through the disinfectant boot bath, I entered the trading floor. At the other end of the hall, auctions were already taking place. My eyes were quickly drawn to the range, size and quality of the fish on offer. Monk Fish, the size of which you certainly do not see at the supermarket fish counter, lay next to small numbers of Dog Fish. Huge Coley and Pollock could be seen close to boxes of Squid along with an impressive range of flatfish and in a box on its own in the corner lay an exotic but lonely looking John Dory. The main action though, was with the Cod and Haddock, the staple of the nation’s fish shops.
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... an attractive marina and an award winning beach ...
... in the corner lay an exotic but lonely looking John Dory.
At any one time three mobile auctions took place, one each for Cod and Haddock and another for the rest. I had expected the auctioneers` dialect to be difficult to follow, a mix of high-speed Doric and industry code but it was clear and concise. When a box had been purchased the buyer`s card was placed on the box and the auction moved on.
many of our coastal settlements, Boddam as we know it today was built on fishing, following the completion of the first harbour in 1831 and the second in 1842. By the mid-1840s the population was 526 with a fleet of 22 haddock boats and 23 herring boats. However, decline set in as Peterhead grew in size.
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Boddam as we know it today was built on fishing.
Recently, the Northern Lighthouse Board has announced proposals to make it easier to maintain the lights at the Buchan Ness lighthouse at Boddam. The 115 feet lighthouse tower was built in 1827 by Robert Stevenson. It went electric in 1978 and was fully automated 10years later. Buchan Ness was a dangerous place for boats with many ship wrecks over the years, leading to the Legend of the Hanged Monkey immortalised in a folk song.The legend states that for the people of the town to get salvage rights, all on board a stricken ship must be lost. However, on one occasion, the only survivor was a monkey, hence the song…
Squid for export By 08.30, it was all over and the lorries headed away. Some were bound for local processors, but Grimsby and the markets on the continent are bigger players. The best price of the day was for the large Halibut. Haddock prices were up for the day but Cod was not doing quite so well. Dawn had broken so it was back to the Dolphin Café where fish buyers were discussing the future of the industry and the credit crunch.Worries that fish shops would be selling less fish and that processors were dragging their feet over payment was the talk of the hour. A quick visit to the Harbour Control tower followed. Peterhead Harbour regularly lands over 3,500 boxes of high quality fish per day with the sight of new £20 million vessels showing that Peterhead is and will remain one of Europe’s largest and most dynamic fishing ports. Credit crunch or no credit crunch, people still enjoy eating fish. Boddam – fishing and a monkey Often passed at speed on a trip between Aberdeen and Peterhead, Boddam is a distinctive village that is worthy of exploration. The history of Boddam is surprisingly long and varied with evidence of prehistoric man found at sites such as the Catto Long Barrow, a 44 m long, 1.8 m high 22 meter wide cairn situated just outside the village. This also formed the point at which the Pictish armies made camp prior to their battles with the invading Vikings. Close by is the Den of Boddam, once a major flint quarry. After these early records, little is known until the 16th century when Boddam Castle was built by the Keith family. However, like
Eence a ship sailed round the coast And a’ the men in her was lost Burrin’ a monkey up a post So the Boddamers hanged the monkey-O Noo the funeral was a grand affair All the Boddam folk was there It minded you o’ the Glesga Fair Fin the Boddamers hanged the monkey-O Noo a’ the folk frae Peterhead Cam oot expectin’ tae get a feed So they made it into potted heed Fin the Boddamers hanged the monkey-O It is also believed that this legend led to the more widely known tale of Hartlepool fishermen executing a monkey from a French Napoleonic warship as they thought it was a French spy. It should be noted that Hangus, the Monkey, the mascot for Hartlepool’s football team was elected mayor in 2002 and is presently serving his 3rd term in the job with a majority of over 10,000 voters. In truth, no monkey was ever harmed in either Boddam or Hartlepool as the legend in both cases was made up by another local town as a joke. So, next time you pass by, try to find a bit of time to explore or just have a look at the lighthouse and harbour. But, best not mention the ‘Monkey’!. The Boddam Community Association, with the co-operation of local landowners, continues to be very active in developing the local path network around Sterling Hill and Den Dam. New paths have been created and information boards erected that detail the history of quarrying for granite, some of which provided the stone to build the nearby prison and the breakwaters of Peterhead harbour. From Sterling Hill there are panoramic views over the area of North Buchan. Bullars of Buchan In spring and summer this is one of the most wonderful parts of our coastline and probably the easiest place locally to watch the comical Puffins, whilst the black and red Burnet Moth can be seen close to the path.
The Bullars of Buchan is an area of heavily eroded cliffs. This erosion has created features with wonderful names such as the Camel’s Back (a long ridge sticking out into the sea), the Bow of Pitwartlachie (a tunnel that you can see passing under the Camel’s Back) and Hell’s Lum, a crack in the cliff where a sea cave is just breaking though the ground above. Fine spray can be seen rising though the crack in stormy weather.
Puffin watching you
Bullars of Buchan The most famous feature is the Pot, a large hole where the roof of a big sea cave has collapsed. A walk around the edge of the pot is not advised and possibly foolhardy.
HOW TO SEE A PUFFIN ... Puffins are generally the most sought after seabird but not the easiest to see. Pick a day in between April and July. Park at the car park and walk past the cottages, turn left onto the path that follows the cliff edge. Pass ‘the Pot’ and carry on to the obvious headland, from where there is a great view along the coast. Looking south, you will see the long ridge known as the Camel’s Back. Scan along the grassy area above the cliff along the Camel’s Back and with luck you should see Puffins sitting at the entrance to their burrows. Remember puffins are much smaller than most people think and are around the same size as a Starling. In flight Puffins travel very quickly with a very short body and small wings that flap rapidly.
Sunset fishing at Cruden Bay
Cruden Bay and Port Errol In a cafe next to the railway station in North Berwick, there is a set of three Art Deco postcards in a frame on the wall. Each shows a train pulling into a great seaside town, obviously adverts for holidays by train. The first shows Brighton, the second Scarborough, and the third Cruden Bay where a lady and her kilted caddy play golf in the dunes with Slains Castle in the background. Now the train line may have gone (the line closed to passengers in 1932 and the grand hotel which it served was demolished eventually by 1952) but the charm of this village together with its golf course and beach remain. A walk through woodland will even take you through to Slains Castle. Port Errol Harbour is a good starting point where children can fish from the harbour wall and the Ladies Bridge leads to 2 miles of golden beach. Collieston One of the most picture perfect seaside villages in Britain but please do not tell anyone!
Walk 1: Blue Route 6.2 km, involves rough ground and sand, follows the beach for part of the way.
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... and views of Eider Duck on the water or shoreline.
If you like a place with almost no traffic, no shop, no cafe and absolutely no mobile phone signal and a perfect beach in a picture postcard village only 15 miles from the edge of Aberdeen, then this may well be the place for you. Please, let’s keep it as our secret.
Start at Waterside car park by the Ythan Estuary and follow the track through the trees. Keep to the track and you will see Newburgh to the south and views of Eider Duck on the water or shoreline. In summer the Eiders nest close to this path, so keep dogs under close control. Terns can be seen diving for fish in the summer, while in winter, Redshank, Lapwing, Curlew and Oystercatchers flock in large numbers. Leaving the estuary, the trail crosses huge shifting dunes before dropping out at the beach. Follow the beach north to the end, then turn west to pick up a rough track which will take you back to the car park. On the way, enjoy Forvie’s dune heath landscape, awash with purple heather in early autumn.
Please park at the large car park below the church and follow the coastal path south to access the beach.
Walk 2: Red Route
Collieston
5.9 km one way (not circular), rough paths with steps in places. Forvie National Nature Reserve Just half a mile from Collieston is the sands of Forvie NNR Visitors Centre. Here you can learn about this stunning landscape and its wildlife. Two waymarked trails lead around the reserve and a map can be picked up from the visitors center.
Enjoying the peace at Forvie
Start at Waterside car park or Stevenson Forvie Centre, Collieston. From the north, leave the Forvie Centre and follow the path south through a gate. Keep left and soon you will see Sand Loch at Collieston where Whooper Swans are often seen in winter. The path continues around the loch and eventually meets the coast. Seabirds can be seen at all times of year, but the cliffs offer good vantage points for watching nesting birds in spring.The route continues south to Hackley Bay, a pretty spot for a picnic, and there are stone steps at the southern end allowing access down onto the sand.
Sand dunes at Forvie
Continuing south, the path leads you to Forvie Kirk, a ruin of a 12th Century chapel and the top of the site of Forvie village - said to have been lost under the sand following a curse. Pick up the rough track across Oldkirk Burn and follow it over the moor and down towards the estuary and Waterside car park. Inland Ellon is the largest town locally with a good range of shops and cafes.A little further is the National Trust for Scotland’s magnificent Haddo House home of the Earl of Aberdeen. During the Second World War the house was used as a maternity hospital with over 1200 babies born there. The Ythan Estuary This is simply one of the most beautiful and special pieces of water that you could image. The Ythan is a small river but opens into an estuary that is home to Eider Ducks, fishermen, scientists and Seals. The mouth of the estuary can be reached by taking Shore Road in Newburgh. Park at the car park and walk on the small rough path that leads to the boathouse. Just past the boathouse you arrive on the southern side of the estuary. In summer terns that breed on the north bank will be fishing all around you, Eiders will be covering the water making their strange almost inquisitive call, and up to 400 Seals will be lazing on the other bank. In winter wading birds will be patrolling the waters edges whilst skeins of Geese fly overhead.
The Arctic Tern migrate is the greatest tancedis in the natural world, journeying to the Antarctic during our winter and returning again the following spring. Smaller than the Sandwich tern, these are extremely elegant birds with slim wings and long tail-streamers. They have short red legs and a blood-red bill, and often argue amongst themselves with shrill voices.
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Sandwich tern
... up to 400 Seals will be lazing on the other bank.
Dawn and dusk are especially beautiful here with the low light illuminating the mighty sand dunes that rise on the opposite bank. Walking east you will pass a small wrecked boat that is high and dry at low tide but serves as a safe roost for birds in mid channel when the tide is high. Soon you will reach the mouth of the estuary with sand dunes and a perfect beachscape visible all the way south to Aberdeen North of Newburgh is a bridge over the estuary and the Waterside car park, the starting point for a number of walks. This is a great place to watch Osprey fishing during the spring and summer. The A92 hugs the side of the estuary for a couple of miles with two car parks. Reaching a crossroads, take the road to Ellon on the left and soon access to a bird hide can be gained by following a track just before the small bridge. Add map
TERNS AT FORVIE NNR Daryl Short, Site Management Officer, Forvie National Nature Reserve Here at Forvie National Nature Reserve, we play host to some very special seabirds during the summer months. Four species of terns – smaller, more graceful relatives of the gulls – migrate from West Africa and beyond, and settle by the Ythan Estuary in the hope of successfully raising young. Our four tern species are superficially similar, but can be told apart with a little practice.The largest of the four is the Sandwich Tern, named after the district in Kent where the species was first described. Sandwich Terns have a black bill with small yellow tip, short tail, and a shaggy or spiky black crest. Their call is harsh and grating.
Arctic tern Common Terns are very closely related to Arctic Terns, and appear very similar. Even experienced birders struggle to separate them at times! Common Terns are slightly larger and less gracefully proportioned than Arctic Terns, with a black tip to the orange-red bill. Despite their name, they are the least abundant of the terns at Forvie. The final species is the Little Tern, a nationally rare species which has declined alarmingly in recent decades. Little Terns are relatively easily identified by their tiny size and fast, jerky flight. They have a yellow bill with a black tip, short yellow legs, and communicate with each other with excitable, squeaky calls. Terns choose to breed at Forvie for a number of reasons. Firstly, the Ythan Estuary and the shallow waters offshore provide good feeding grounds – all four species rely on small fish like sand-eels and sprats. Secondly, the raised beaches and marram-clad dunes are good places for these ground-nesting birds to nest, as the eggs and chicks are well camouflaged from predators. Thirdly, the site is relatively undisturbed, so the birds can raise their young in peace. Disturbance and predation are two of the factors which most affect breeding terns. When terns are disturbed, for example by people or dogs, they take flight in an attempt to defend their
nests. The courageous Arctic Terns will even strike the heads of intruders with their bills! However, this can leave their eggs or chicks exposed to the weather and to predatory birds such as crows and gulls.
Common tern
area in order to keep foxes and badgers out. The southern end of the reserve is also closed to the public between April and August to keep human disturbance to a minimum. People can help by viewing the tern colonies from the Newburgh side of the estuary – good views of fishing terns can be had here. Daily wardening of the tern colonies takes place throughout the season, and this allows us to maintain the anti-predator fencing and record the breeding success of the birds. They don’t always thank us for it though – as far as a tern is concerned, a warden is just another predator, and is duly dealt with. Protective headgear is a must for tern wardens! Balmedie As well as being home to the aptly named community gallery and tearoom, ‘Tarts and Crafts’, Balmedie has one of the best beaches around with miles of sand backed by a mighty system of dunes. Toilets can be found at the car park.
FLOTSAM, FOOTPRINTS AND FAIRIES Beaches aren’t just for summer so if you have some kids you need to get the steam out of, head to the beach – you might be doing them more good than you realise. It’s a Saturday morning and we’re the only people on Stonehaven beach. My three and five year olds are in the near-distance laughing at and running away from the waves as they flood onto the shore and I take off my hat – the sun’s that warm. I lift up my binoculars and there is a bottlenose dolphin just surfacing, still within the bay area. Not bad for the beginning of January!
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Meanwhile, ground predators like foxes, badgers and stoats can take eggs, young and adult birds, particularly by night. This too can lead to breeding failure and the desertion of tern colonies. Over the years, all four species have fluctuated greatly, both at Forvie and throughout Britain.
The north east coastline is a fantastic place to visit with wonderful wildlife to see at all times of year. Winter storms often wash amazing artifacts to shore so it’s well worth wrapping up and heading out for a walk to Forvie National Nature Reserve, Balmedie Beach or St Cyrus National Nature Reserve after some bad weather. You can find all sorts – from massive tree trunks to collections of yellow, plastic-like capsules, the egg cases of the common whelk.
... wonderful wildlife to see at all times of year.
During winter many birds leave their territories to join together to make impressive flocks.Visit the Ythan Estuary near to Newburgh to see rafts of Eider Duck. Eider Duck is the heaviest and fastest flying of all the ducks, males are black and white and females are brown.This area is important nationally for this species as it hosts the largest breeding colony of these mollusc-eating birds. As spring approaches, sea birds start returning to breed all along the north east coast.The cliffs at the Bullers of Buchan, just north of Cruden Bay and those at Fowlsheugh, south of Stonehaven become filled with Kittiwakes, Razorbills, Puffins and Guillemots.
Little tern Here at Forvie we take measures to control these factors and give our terns the best chance of success. In spring, reserve staff and volunteers erect electric fencing around the main nesting
If you prefer slightly warmer surroundings for wildlife watching drive into Aberdeen and stay in your car! Bottlenose Dolphins are seen almost daily throughout the year from the car park at the Torry Battery to the south of Aberdeen Harbour. Sit back and watch the often acrobatic performances of these mammals, the largest of the beaked dolphins, as they feed on Salmon swimming up into the waters of the River Dee.
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Sit back and watch the often acrobatic performances ...
Beyond the wildlife there are endless things to do and make on a beach. If your child is learning to write, then how about some large mark-making in the sand? Use sticks or stones to make numbers, letters, patterns or a maze. Everyone knows how to make a sand castle but what about a stone castle for fairies or a “dribble” sand castle made by pouring little amounts of sand on top of each other? Build a tower of stones or dig a bridge out of sand, weave some seaweed together or make some footprints using stones. You could even become a human stencil – lie on some wettish sand and pour some dry stuff over your hand or body to leave your mark!
EYES TO THE SKIES Bird migration is mind-blowing. Every year, millions of birds follow internal compasses, compelling them to fly hundreds or thousands of miles to and from Scotland. There are the classic and familiar long-distance travellers, such as Swallows, which can reach South Africa, and Arctic Terns which travel further still. There is also a whole range of species that one might not immediately think of as migratory, which nonetheless make purposeful and regular seasonal journeys.
Meadow Pipit
Photo: Clive McKay
Photo: Mandy Tulloch
Collecting things on a beach is always fun and you can use your finds in lots of ways. This also encourages children to really look at things and be observant. How about starting a collection? Buy a nice display jar to stop your house getting cluttered with shells, special stones or beach glass.
Heading to the beach at any time of year is fun. But more than that, by taking your child to the coast you’re helping them discover something really important about themselves and their environment. If we want future generations to look after this planet then each and every person needs to have a personal connection with it. Playing in rock pools and scuttering about on the beach might be more than just child’s play. Have fun! Mandy Tulloch Mandy Tulloch is Founder and Principal of Mud Pies. She runs weekly nature classes for 2 to 5 year olds, adventures for schools and nurseries and birthday parties for the under 10s. (www.mudpieadventures.co.uk)
Raft Take a little bit of string and some scissors with you and you’re guaranteed to have hours of fun. Collect some treasures and make a necklace, pendant or mobile to take home. Raft building is also a great activity for all ages. Tots can help gather flotsam with parents helping to tie things together to make little rafts. Older children can have competitions to see whose design floats the longest. Or, for some real magic, go at dusk and put some tea lights on your boats. Remember to wrap up though. Get the clothes right and you’re most of the way to having a great adventure outdoors. During the colder months of the year children need long-sleeved layers close to their skin, a fleece layer to keep the heat in and possibly also a windproof/waterproof layer to keep the wind and cold out, as well as hats and gloves. I always try to pack a small towel and spare socks as I don’t want to go home ten minutes after arriving with a wet and miserable child. And don’t forget the snack - an outdoors picnic is always fun, made even better on cold days with a hot drink.
The mechanics of migration are complex and are subject to much study and debate. However the process is easy to observe – one simply needs to get out there and watch it. Early mornings on the coast in autumn are the best in our region, with those that are dry with a moderate westerly breeze often being the best. If you can time the visit to be just ahead of an advancing cold front, then so much the better. Arrive at dawn and then just wait and see. From late August to late September, Meadow Pipits are the commonest species. Although an abundant breeding species on grasslands from the coasts to the mountain tops, most leave our area in autumn and fly-past coastal watch points with their familiar “seep-seep” contact call. At my own regular count site, Blackdog, on peak days each year counts reach well into four figures over the course of a couple of hours. Swallows and Martins pass in ever decreasing numbers as September goes on, but, as they bow out, so finches and buntings become ever more conspicuous among the movements. Linnet counts can reach into the hundreds with double figures of Goldfinches, Chaffinches, Siskins, Redpolls and Reed Buntings being commonplace. Skylarks increase in number as autumn progresses but often fly high are can be difficult to pick out. Some years bring the thrushes too with Blackbirds, Redwings and Fieldfares piling over from Scandinavia.
Finches Whilst observing visible migration is easy, identifying and logging all the birds that pass by is a rather more skilled activity. The Swallows are easy enough to identify and, with practice, the bouncy flight of Meadow Pipits become familiar. However finch flocks, with faster and more direct flight in tighter groups, can be more of a challenge. The ability to identify many of the birds by their calls comes only with much practice. However being able to name birds in this way will greatly enhance the list of species recorded and gives the opportunity to pick out the occasional scarce visitor cruising along with the more regular species.
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... the occasional scarce visitor cruising along ...
One aspect of visible migration will be familiar to just about everyone in Grampian; Pink-footed Geese visit in their thousands each winter from breeding grounds in Iceland. Many overhead flocks are on short-distance flights between feeding sites and roosts but, each autumn, tens of thousands continue on southwards “wink-winking” as they go. Indeed in a couple of hours one morning last October, I counted over 13,000 streaming south over Blackdog. A former university supervisor once commented that the return of Pink-footed Geese to the skies over Aberdeen coincides with the annual migration of students back to the city after the long summer break.Whether these two phenomena are linked or not, one thing is for sure – migration comes in all forms… Nick Littlewood Nick is a Scientist at the James Hutton Institute who has studied the birds around Blackdog in his spare time for over 10 years.
Aberdeen When it comes to coastal cities, Aberdeen has it all. Miles of Seaside Award winning beach, the Don Mouth Local Nature Reserve, a fun beach, a bustling Harbour, a fort, a lighthouse, places to catch mackerel in the summer, areas that are popular for surfing, climbing, wind sports and even paragliding. Something for everyone! It has diverse wildlife from seabirds and migrating birds to dolphins and whales.
Fun on Aberdeen beach Girdleness and Torry Battery: a location worth visiting in Aberdeen as it gives a sense of what makes the area tick. It provides a panoramic view of the city including the harbour with the Grampian Mountains in the background. The views are added to by the business of the port with brightly coloured oil supply vessels entering and leaving the harbour regularly whilst huge oil tankers anchor a few miles off shore. Bottlenosed Dolphins can be seen most days hunting and playing around at the harbour mouth.
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If it is raining you can shop in the city, enjoy displays of past and present at the Maritime museum, keep the kids busy at Cadona’s Amusement Park or enjoy outdoor sports indoors at Transition Extreme.
It provides a panoramic view of the city ...
Behind you Balnagask golf course which offers rounds to nonmembers, while the Torry Battery is to your side. In front, Aberdeen Bay sweeps majestically north to Peterhead, easily visible on a clear day. A path follows the coast south to Cove, past the red rocks where anglers catch Mackerel and Pollack. The popular climbing cliffs can be covered in brightly coloured rock athletes many evenings during the summer. From Cove it is possible to catch a bus back into the city centre.
The whale had been first seen at the entrance to Nigg Bay two hours previously and had been actively feeding, making repeated lunges to fill its huge mouth.
Aberdeen from the Torry Battery
Humpback whale The whale was seen on a few occasions over the next couple of weeks. However, remarkably this was not the first Humpback whale to be seen in the area this year. On the 1st of January, a Humpback was seen from Portlethan then at various points along the coast for the rest of the month.
THE RETURN OF THE GIANTS? At 4.15pm on the 16th of June I squeezed into the car park below the Torry Battery, my last meeting of the day had finished early so I decided to see how many Dolphins were around. The presence of a few people staring seaward suggested a good show. However, I will never forget what happened next. 10 meters from the south breakwater what can only be described as a small island surfaced.
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... what can only be described as a small island surfaced.
I wish I could say I recognised it as an adult Humpback Whale immediately, having seen a few in the past, but sadly I could not believe what I was seeing. Fortunately, though, I managed to take some photos that would confirm identification later.
Fin whale
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It had a blow that reached half the height of the Northlink ferry ...
On the 20th of July reports of another large whale were seen from Collieston. This was followed by a positive sighting of a Fin Whale made by local cetacean expert, Kevin Hepworth. It had a blow that reached half the height of the Northlink ferry that was passing at the time. Sightings of two large whale species in one year would be considered remarkable. However, on the 19th of November Ian Sim of Stonehaven Cetacean Research observed a Sperm Whale in Stonehaven Bay. So will 2011 be seen as a one off year or are things changing? Sperm Whales will never be common in this area as male sperm whales migrate between the Arctic and Tropical oceans generally following the shelf edge along the west of Scotland. Sperm Whales in this area are simply lost. Fin Whales are the second largest animal that has ever lived on earth. They are also common just to the west of Scotland and follow food into shallow waters such as the North Sea so will be seen on occasion in East Grampian waters. Humpbacked Whales provide quite a few questions. Consult a cetacean text book and you will see that Humpback Whales breed in the tropics in the winter and spend summers feeding in the high arctic. This would suggest that the odd lost individual in
the spring and autumn might be seen. However, they have been seen in winter when they should be breeding in the West Indies and in the summer when they should be north of Iceland.
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By the mid-19th century the new village of Muchalls was a thriving resort with visitors including Charles Dickens, who described it as ‘a remarkably beautiful place’. Hopefully you will agree.
... odd lost individual in the spring and autumn might be seen.
Explaining Humpback Whales here in summer is easy. They had always spent summer in the rich coastal waters of Scotland until they were hunted to extinction here. Since Humpback Whales were protected around 45 years ago, they have increased in number and are simply reclaiming lost territory. It is possible that in 20 years’ time Humpbacked Whales will be a common site off Aberdeen. If this seems unlikely remember that Bottlenosed Dolphins were a rarity in Aberdeen 20 years ago and Rissos were almost unheard of 7 years ago. Wintering Humpbacks are more of a mystery. Why stay in the North Sea if you could be in the West Indies? One simple answer could be why swim to the West Indies if you are not planning on breeding. A winter sighting of a mother and large calf could back up this theory. However, one last idea is that around the Arabian Gulf there is a small population of Non Migratory Humpbacks. Could this happen here? Only time will tell. So, next time you are looking out to sea, do not be too surprised if you see one of the largest creatures on the planet who has decided that the East Grampian Coast is worth a visit. Update: in December and January a couple of Humpbacks were seen most days from the village of Collieston, north of Aberdeen. Inland Royal Deeside needs little, if any introduction with grand scenery, castles and even a distillery. For anglers the River Dee is world famous and for a whole lot of tartan the Highland games at Braemar is impossible to beat. For wildlife, Glen Tanar is a good place to look for Scottish specialities such as Black Grouse and Golden Eagle and Red Deer. Muchalls – beach walk The village of Muchalls lies just south of Newtonhill. However, this location is effectively New Muchalls.The original fishing village was located ¾ of a mile to the south and was a prosperous fishing community. Two fishing disasters in a short period contributed to the village being abandoned and the fishing boats moving south to Stonehaven.
Muchalls walk This walk starts at the car park at the end of Marine Terrace. Muchalls can be reached by the 101, 102 and 107 Coastliner buses which stop by the A90 trunk road. From the car park, head south and pass below the railway line following the wooded path that heads to the sea.This is now along the edge of what was once the exclusive Marine Hotel, which at one time even had its own railway station! This area is great for wildlife; a low flying sparrow hawk was surprised to see me as it sped along the line of the path. Seconds later a buzzard flew by, mobbed by some crows. Once on the beach, the impressive cave known as Dunnyfell may cause a detour for further exploration but the rocks can be slippery. Close by is a cave entrance which once led over a mile inland and is associated with tales of green ladies, phantom pipers, and, of course, smugglers. However, the wonderful waterfall that descends the cliff will attract attention. From here, you can head south along an indistinct path that follows the high waterline, past the first headland which is guarded by an impressive sea stack. Always check the tide as it is possible to be cut off once this point is passed.
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... a stunning waterfall drops into a deep pool ...
Muchalls walk
Continuing south, the beach remains wonderful and very rocky. Two things are worthy of notice. The first is a pink cliff with a
distinct gorge. A path is said to lead up to the cliff top close to this point. The second thing is a passage through the headland to the south. This simply has to be explored and it is well worth it as the sound of a waterfall fills the space. Once through the passage, a stunning waterfall drops into a deep pool as the tumbling river finally reaches the sea.
Stonehaven from above
Muchalls walk
and a model of what the creature looked like. So remember, life on land began in Stonehaven! To the north of the Tolbooth is a board-walk path that follows the bay. The sculpture of the dolphin should remind you to look out to sea where you may well see the real thing. Stonehaven It is mid-July and the sun is shining, what better place to spend the day than Stonehaven. Starting at the railway station, it is a fifteen minute walk to the market square in the centre of town. After a look at the shops, head along Bridge Field Road to the junction with the High Street. More energetic visitors can head for a walk in Dunnottar Woods, whilst the more relaxed can aim straight for the harbour. Whichever way you approach the harbour, it is hard to believe one 17th century captain described it as a ‘stinking hive’ being ‘only for pirates and picaroons’. Its history remained colourful throughout the period of the Jacobite revolt with landings from both sides, including rumours of invading French troops. During the Herring boom the harbour prospered. However this was not to last and fishing has since given way to tourism, with a sheltered beach and a range of good food and ice creams available around the harbour.
Following the beach to the north you reach the village of Cowie where you will see the greens used to dry the fishing nets. If you wish to continue beyond the end of the road it is possible to walk round to the Highland Boundary Fault where geologically the Lowlands of Scotland meet the Highlands, or turn back here and head for one of the jewels of the area, if not the whole of Scotland! Situated just behind the beach is the Stonehaven open air, sea water swimming pool. The pool was built in 1935 in the ‘art deco’ style. Following a poll of local households in 1996, it is run as a partnership between the local community and the council. There is no better place to be on a hot day and even on a cooler summer’s day as the water is kept at 28 degrees Celsius so it is always lovely and warm. Even if you have had a very long day, the pool is open most days in the summer until 7.30pm, and on some days even midnight swims are available.
Whilst at the harbour you may well see the local creel boats readying their catch for export, as well as anglers hoping to catch Mackerel from the breakwater. If you are at the harbour in the summer then the Tolbooth Museum is well worth a visit (open Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 4pm, Sunday, 12:30pm to 3:30pm and closed Mondays). Not only is it the oldest building in Stonehaven, but it also contains the world’s oldest air breathing beastie, a millipede-like creature that lived over 428 million years ago, whose fossil remains were found by a local bus driver and amateur paleontologist near to Cowie. The original fossil is now kept in Edinburgh but you can see a cast
Stonehaven outdoor pool
ART AND CRAFT ON THE EAST GRAMPIAN COAST Coasts have been inspiring artists for centuries. Be it the bustle of the fishing ports, the waves battering the coastline or the sight of a seal colony soaking up the sun on the shore, there is something by the sea to ignite artistic interest in almost everyone.
Dunnotar Castle in winter
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Yorkshire Building Company who removed almost everything of use. Since 1925 various efforts have been made to renovate the site, resulting in the present restored site complete with visitor facilities.
Coasts have been inspiring artists for centuries.
East Grampian Coast is no exception, with a diversity of landscapes and coastal activities to inspire. Along the coastline there are art galleries and craft shops brimming with locally produced artworks and crafts, often inspired by the local landscape. North East Open Studios is an award-winning collective of which provides a directory of artists, makers and galleries in the region. It has listings of what there is to see, from textile crafts in Fraserburgh to oil paintings in St Cyrus. Their annual ‘Open Studios’ event in September is an opportunity to explore the regions’ talent through visiting artists’ studios, participating in demonstrations and purchasing or commissioning pieces of original work. Feeling inspired? Explore the many craft shops and galleries in the region or even do some art yourself! A trip to the coast is a great way to get the creative juices flowing and if you would like some guidance along the way, you could see what workshops and courses are on offer locally. Linda Forrest Fowlsheugh Dunnottar Castle If you had some major enemies and needed to build a castle a 3 acre area of level ground surrounded by 160 ft cliffs with only 2 access points, this would be a good place to start. Dunnottar Caste, one of the most majestic castles in Scotland occupies such a site. Strange, then, that it has been captured and recaptured so many times in its history.
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If you are reading this between April and July and you have never been to one of Britain’s large seabird colonies then put down what you are doing and go to Fowlsheugh. This may be a bit extreme, but if you make the visit before the 2nd week in August, the sight, sound, and to be honest, smell of 120,000 breeding seabirds is something you will never forget.
... one of the most majestic castles in Scotland ...
It is thought that this site, first settled by the Picts in the 5th century, was the location for one of Scotland first Churches. In 900 AD the castle was destroyed by Viking raiders and in 1296 the Castle was captured by King Edward I of England. However, just a year later, it was recaptured by William Wallace who burned alive the entire English Garrison who were seeking sanctuary in the Church. The English captured the castle again in 1337. Again it was recaptured within a year. After this experience, the castle was improved and strengthened, providing one of the great strongholds of Scotland until it was again destroyed by Oliver Cromwell during the ‘English’ Civil war. He did not find the Scottish Crown Jewels which had been removed for safe keeping to Kinneff Parish Church. In 1715 the castle’s then owners backed the losing side of the Jacobite Rebellion and the castle was confiscated and sold to the
Fulmar Puffins, Guillemots, Razorbills, Fulmar, Kittiwake and Shag breed on these vertical cliffs and use the food from the rich North Sea waters. To get to Fowlsheugh follow the A92 south from Stonehaven and take the road to Crawton. There is ample parking. The cliffs are a short walk from the car park following RSPB signs but be careful. Wear shoes with a good grip!
THE BREEDING BIRDS OF NORTH-EAST SCOTLAND Edited by Ian Francis and Martin Cook Published by the Scottish Ornithological Club, Aberdeen 2011 “…Go Out and Buy a Copy…” This 500 page atlas of 170 breeding birds is much more than another tome aimed at gracing your front room coffee table, although it is a most handsome production making full use of startling clear photos and maps. For the inexperienced birdwatcher, the atlas may open the door to a fulfilling hobby of bird recording and habitat conservation. It illustrates the distribution of birds of all types of habitats found in the area, formerly known as Grampian, from the coastal fringes to the high tops of the Cairngorms.
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... the atlas may open the door to a fulfilling hobby ...
For each of the recorded species one learns under the standard headings about their distribution, habitat, breeding biology, status, (rarity) and trends within a Scottish, U.K., and international context. The quality of text, maps and photographs draws one into reading the story written in clear language, yet underpinned by rigorous scientific survey. This clarity of description is a testament to the dedication of the 350 observers (60 of whom wrote the species accounts), and the 62 photographers In addition to the accounts of the 170 species, the pressures for change on land use and use of our seas are clearly articulated and where known, their effect on bird behaviour. The impact of changes in E.U., government policy, for the management of our land, rivers and seas are set out in the final Chapters.
Grasshopper warbler
So, how have we been caring for our birds and their habitats over the past 40 years? The evidence suggests in the final pages that “we could do better”, but without the consistent efforts of all sections of the North East communities we could have lost some species, particularly the range and distribution of farmland species. However the atlas states that “there are more breeding geese and sea birds than there were 40 years ago”. The concluding sections should be compulsory reading for policy makers and politicians at all levels. We all agree that the North East is an extraordinary and special place for birds and people. This atlas shows that to keep it ‘special’, we must continue to refresh or create channels of communication to allow the evidence and survey work of bird recorders to be clearly heard. The publication of the atlas was sponsored by a variety of public bodies, including the East Grampian Coastal Partnership. Go out and buy a copy, then sit quietly as you digest the images and messages. Share it with your family and friends, and then consider what more YOU are going to do care for birds and their habitats. Yes, birds are brilliant, so is this atlas in pointing out where support might be needed in the future. Allan Garvie Crawton and Catterline South of the Fowlsheugh Reserve lies the deserted village of Crawton whose last inhabitant left in 1927. At its peak the village had 13 boats and even a fish merchant. A little further south is Catterline, a great village with a slightly crazy side. Catterline is popular with artists, seafood lovers and people who like racing carts down a steep hill at the annual Cartie challenge.
WHY EAST GRAMPIAN COAST IS GREAT IN THE AUTUMN … The great things of autumn are generally not associated with the coast; the autumn leaves, children playing conkers or hunting for mushrooms, are all great but not very coastal.
Autumn toadstool
So why go to the coast? Well, there is plenty to see and do; the seasons are changing here too!
In early autumn the weather can be surprisingly warm, so fun on the beach is still the order of the day although possibly a long walk rather than a swim. However, if you are one of those people who believe that a 30 mile per hour north easterly wind is great beach weather as many surfers do, this can be a great time.
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... so fun on the beach is still the order of the day ...
Visitors arriving from the north would get a very different impression of the town.The road sweeps down the hill and crosses a mighty viaduct before visitors are welcomed by a scantily clad witch called Nannie! Nannie is a full sized replica of the figure head of the Cutty Sark and is placed as a memorial to Hercules Linton, the designer of the ship. Gourdon Gourdon is a hard working fishing village that should be on every seafood lover’s agenda. Fishing boats supply their catch to two fish processors on the south side of the harbour. This catch can be enjoyed in the fish shop, the fish and chip restaurant and the pub.
Serious bird watchers may also view bad weather as a good thing. An easterly wind with fog and drizzle or even rain can produce a fall, whereby huge numbers of birds are caught out by changing weather and go seriously off course. This can involve hundreds of thousands of common species as well as many unusual species. In early November a few years ago an estimated 3 million thrushes were seen between Aberdeen and Peterhead. Rattray Head and Girdleness are both good places to watch. Even if such conditions do not occur, the numbers of migrating birds arriving in the North East can be fantastic.
Gourdon - a winter wonderland A coastal path leads from Gourdon to Johnshaven and is suitable for bikes and push chairs. Johnshaven Johnshaven is a village that is associated with lobster and crab. From this small community lobsters from the inshore waters of the East Grampian coast are exported all over the world even as far as Japan. They appear rarely to be eaten locally. However as a treat, the cost of a home cooked lobster compares very favorably with a meal out, especially if it is the last barbecue of the season.
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... lobsters ... are exported all over the world ...
After being away for much of the summer, the Bottlenose Dolphins can be seen more regularly looking down to the harbour mouth from the Torry Battery. The Minke Whale and White Beaked Dolphins that we see in the summer will now be heading for deeper water so are rarely sighted at this time of year. One species that may, just may make an appearance is the Pilot Whale. Let us know quickly if you see one, so we can get there before it leaves. Inverbervie Visitors arriving from the south would describe Inverbervie as a pleasant town that happens to be on the sea rather than a seaside town. Originally a fishing community the relentless action of the sea repeatedly blocked the entrance of the harbour with a gravel bar so the fishermen had to move south to Gourdon.
Johnshaven’s pretty harbour is well worth a visit with shops, a pub and a gallery. Inland Mill of Benholm is very well worth a visit with a great cafe and lots to see and do.Visit early as it closes at 2pm. St Cyrus National Nature Reserve St Cyrus National Nature Reserve includes one of the great beaches and coastal landscapes of Scotland. The beach stretches about 2 miles, from the mouth of the North Esk to the cliffs at Woodston. Behind the dunes is an area of heathland that supports a wide range of birds such as Stonechat and notably all 5 of Scotland’s grasshoppers species.
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Aberdeen Harbour dolphin
... one of the great beaches and coastal landscapes of Scotland.
WHY THE EAST GRAMPIAN COAST IS GREAT IN WINTER ... During the winter the lure of the shops, a log fire or staying tucked up inside all cosy and warm can be strong, but the East Grampian coast can be at its most spectacular and rewarding at this time of year. Winter storms can be stunning, with huge waves breaking along the coast, and whilst you must keep back from the edge and remain safe, the sight of the power of nature pounding the coast is a spellbinding sight. Even more amazing is the sight of the local surfers paddling out to meet them full on! Particularly good watch points include Rattray Head, Peterhead Harbour, Collieston, Stonehaven Harbour and Inverbervie.
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... the power of nature pounding the coast is a spellbinding sight.
If we get a ‘real’ winter, the contrast between white land, yellow sand and blue sea can be a great photographic opportunity, especially if the hardened people of Torry are taking their New Year dip!! We must admit that cold rain and wind can make getting out doors a bleak prospect on some days. So don’t! This is a great time for exploring the museums and visitor centres dotted along our coast. One recommendation is the Scottish Lighthouse museum at Fraserburgh which at present marks the boundary of the East Grampian and Moray Coastlines. As well as fascinating exhibits it also has a café with one of the best views for a café anywhere.
St Cyrus a whole beach to yourself Behind the dunes lies a row of soft cliffs that provide a home for the world’s fastest bird, the Peregrine Falcon, which can often be heard calling overheard whilst Foxes patrol below.
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... cliffs that provide a home for the world’s fastest bird ...
At the south end of the beach, a hide looks over the entrance to the North Esk whilst at the north the sight of a waterfall crashing onto the beach below rewards anyone who keeps walking as far as they can go. Parking can be found at the visitor centre along with a great deal of information about the history, culture and wildlife of the reserve. Near the reserve is St Cyrus village, a pleasant coastal community with a cafe, hotel, campsite and a handsome church with views far out to sea
Winter storm at Girdleness
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... most of our coastal wildlife is here because of the warmth!
For wildlife, winter can be a trying time. However we should remember that most of our coastal wildlife is here because of the warmth!! Sadly, most birds lose their summer plumage so look quite plain in the winter, although one visitor does save its best coat for us. In summer the Long Tailed Duck is quite drab and very much designed for hiding, but in winter it shows off with striking black and white plumage. Long tailed ducks like shallow sandy bays, with Peterhead harbour and Aberdeen bay being hot spots. Look when the sea is calm.
Inland, the Blue Door Walk just west of Edzell provides wonderful views of the along the path to the Rocks of Solitude, you may well see Salmon and kayakers both braving the falls. The geology here is very similar to that at Stonehaven, with the Highland Boundary fault visible.
Salmon braving the Falls
Lastly, some suggestions: 1 Enjoy your coast. If you do not use it carefully, you will lose it 2 Visit Fowlsheugh in early summer and Loch of Strathbeg in the autumn 3 Watch the dolphins at Aberdeen Harbour, and let us know when you see them 4 Don’t drop litter. Consider taking part in a beach clean 5 Watch Barnacles underwater, at least once but probably best to wait until the sea is a warm.
What’s on Along the Coast 2012 MARCH Art Exhibition: Visions of the Broch Eight local artists showcasing their work On-going until 30th March 2012. More Details: www.fraserbrurgh. org.uk APRIL Spring Craft Fair at Loch of Strathbeg A range of stalls from jewellery to woodcarving , all handmade by local crafters. RSPB staff will be on hand with fun activities for children too. Saturday 14th April from 10am-3pm. Details available from: www.rspb.org.uk JUNE Catterline Gala Community led gala with the famous Cartie-Challenge! From Saturday 9th June. Details: http://catterline.org
Leave only footprints Further South and Inland – beyond the East Grampian Area Montrose Basin is a fascinating place to watch wildlife with Osprey hunting in the summer and geese feeding in the winter. The Scottish Wildlife Trust Visitor centre is located to the southwest of Montrose just off the A934 road to Forfar overlooking the Basin. It provides a wealth of information as well as telescopes to view the action.
JULY Peterhead Scottish Week Fun for all the family at this week-long community run event From Saturday 21st July. Details: www.peterheadscottishweek.org AUGUST Johnshaven Fish Festival Held in the harbour area of the village, Johnshaven Fish Festival attracts visitors from all round the world Two weeks from Saturday 18th August. Details available from: www.johnshaven.com Further information on events throughout the year is available from your local Visitor Information Centre.
BECOME AN AFFILIATE MEMBER If you would like to receive regular information on the Partnership’s activities and invitations to events please become an affiliate member. This is completely free of charge.You can register online at www.egcp.org.uk/membership or call 01224 395151 for an application. Contact EGCP, Project Officer, East Grampian Coastal Partnership, c/o The James Hutton Institute, Craigiebuckler, Aberdeen, AB15 8QH Tel: 01224 395151 • Email: ian.hay@hutton.ac.uk • Website: www.egcp.org.uk All photographs by Ian Hay (www.creativewildlife.co.uk) unless otherwise stated The East Grampian Coastal Partnership would like to thank the following Partners for their support