PAGE 1 | ejing magazine
about us ejing magazine is a fashion magazine for fashion enthusiast, trendsetters, and bloggers alike. This bi-monthly magazine strives to bring unique opinions and insight from all aspects of the fashion world through the latest and most recent runway shows, presentations, and fashion news. ejing will give readers deep insights into the world of fashion. This magazine all feature include and original articles, tend reports, interviews, and editorials form a variety of different fashion bloggers. We hope to inspire and be a source of inspiration to our readers.
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CONTENTS FEATURES
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NEW YORK SPRING 2013 WRITTEN BY DAVIDE
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LONDON SPRING 2013 WRITTEN BY ESTELLE WONG
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TREND SPOTLIGHT: SPIKES & STUDS WRITTEN BY DIEGO
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MILAN SPRING 2013 WRITTEN BY PAULINA
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PARIS SPRING 2013 WRITTEN BY RAUL C
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EDITOR’S LETTER WRITTEN BY ESTELLE WONG
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ANNA DELLO RUSSO & MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA H&M COLLABORATION
WRITTEN BY ESTELLE WONG
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COLORS AND PATTERNS TO WATCH
WRITTEN BY TAYLOR BITTNER
ARTICLES 16 FASHION WEEK TIPS
WRITTEN BY: DIEGO
33 BEST SHOES OF SPRING 2013
37 TECHNOLOGY IN FASHION BY: ESTELLE
WONG
PUT TOGETHER BY: ESTELLE WONG
38 FRONT ROW FASHION BY: TAYLOR BITTNER
49 BEAUTY FROM THE RUNWAY
51 ACCESSORY TRENDS BY: TAYLOR BITTNER
BY: MARIA
52 STELLAR SOUNDTRACKS
OF SPRING 2013 WRITTEN BY: THOMAS
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Editors note Song of Myself HIGHLIGHT COLLECTION
MARY KATRANTZOU | LFW READY-TO-WEAR SPRING 2013 It is really everything that I have dreamed of in a collection. Postage stamps and currency from around the world were effortlessly put into new silhouettes. Everyone in the fashion world knows that she has an ability to make gorgeous prints out of anything and this collection proved just that.
I’ve learned to celebrate my life and myself. Walt Whitman was an American Poet who wrote about the beauty of an individual. After going through a rough patch I truly am grateful for everything I have. I learned that the song of yourself is made up of who you are- if it's the past or the future, it defines you and makes you a better person. So celebrate yourself and all the accomplishments that you have made. I took it to heart and now I feel on top of the world. The response I got from the DEBUT issue was amazing and I thank each and every one of our readers and contributors. Fashion this season provided a mixture of hit and miss shows along with statement trends that popped up in multiple shows. This issue is mainly focused on our contributors highlight shows and collections from New York, Paris, London, and Milan along with a variety of new trends and fashion news. So brush off that fashion week depression that we all have and relive the most creative moments from fashion week again.
xo,
Estelle Wong EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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EJING magazine October 2012
❦ EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
ESTELLE WONG HTTP://FASHIONFEUDE.TUMBLR.COM/
FASHION DIRECTIOR
DIEGO HTTP://VERSACE-OVERDOSE.TUMBLR.COM/
BEAUTY EDITOR
MARIA M HTTP://MODEL--MAYHEM.TUMBLR.COM/
CONTRIBUTORS
PAULINA HTTP://PIVOSLYAKOVA.TUMBLR.COM/
RAÚL C HTTP://HAUTEKILLS.TUMBLR.COM/
DAVIDE M HTTP://GIVENE.US/
TAYLOR BITTNER HTTP://RIZZAT.COM/
THOMAS HTTP://VOMITSPRADA.TUMBLR.COM/
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OUR LOVELY CONTRIBUTORS Maria // 17 // California Blogging Since: February 2011 My style is basically all over the place, I basically wear anything that is in style or anything that is vintage. Diego // 17 // Columbia
http://model--mayhem.tumblr.com/
Blogging Since: December 2010 I’d define myself & my style as pop culture meets fashion http://versace-overdose.tumblr.com/ Estelle Wong // 16 // California Blogging Since: May 2011 I would describe my style as fashion forward and trendy. I like to stand out from everyone and draw attention to what I am wearing. I try to weave my personality into my outfits. http://fashionfeude.tumblr.com/
Paulina // 19 // Chile Blogging Since: December 2010
I would describe my style as discreet; I like to wear really simple or plain clothes like a plain top with dark jeans but with a special and beautiful item. Davide // 15 // USA Blogging Since: June 2011 Acquires a precisely post-modern perception of fashion http://givene.us.com/
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http://pivoslyakova.tumblr.com/
Raul C // 17 // Blogging Since: January 2011 I would describe my style as simple and comfortable. Nothing too flashy, simplicity is always the key to good style. http://hautekills.tumblr.com/
Taylor Bittner // 21 // California My look changes with the day (& night), from lazy grunge to eccentric wild child to airy bohemian there's hardly a look I neglect. I live in strong silhouettes, fun colors/patterns, every shade of black and my one true love, pskaufman shoes. http://rizzat.com/
Thomas // 22 // Pennsylvania Blogging Since: May 2010
Currently my personal style is a bit of hipster prep mixed with a bit of punk. My style tends to change from season to season. http://vomitsprada.tumblr.com/
THANK YOU, I would greatly and personally thank each and every one of our contributors for their hard work in putting together this magazine. Its been tough meeting deadlines throughout the chaotic year and thank you for putting you effort into you truly amazing articles. This magazine wouldn’t be possible with out your help and again, thank you so much. Much love, Estelle PAGE 8 | ejing magazine
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EARTHY BLUES This set features earthy tones with statement accessories to rock the streets of New York. Pair this gorgeous silk Acne top with this gorgeous tulip dress by Mary Katrantzou and any of these accessories to stop street style photographers wherever you go. By Estelle Wong
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1. Acne Sloan Silk Top, $423, mytheresa.com 2. Mary Katrantzou Lace Detail Skirt, $1,015, farfetch.com 3. Chanel Vintage Classic Handbag, $3,300 4. Valentino Oxford Lace Ups, $995, valentino.com 5. Fogal 100 Denier Noir Opaque Tights, $66, barneys.com 6. Prada Minimal Baroque Sunglasses, $290, parada.com 7. Hermès Clous en Trompe, $700, hermes.com 8. Hermès Ano Leather Bracelet, $620, heremes.com PAGE 10 | ejing magazine
New York Spring 2013
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Essentially New York Fashion week seemed to a variety of new ideas and trends for this upcoming spring. Several mods that lead the runway included beaming taupe metallic at Alexander Wang, leather & lace at Jason Wu, and looming stripes at Marc Jacobs. Spotted in all the presentations were the contemporary notions of modernism leading into their roots of starkness, bluntly impending on minimalistic tendencies. The mood guides a range of unrestrained and loose tendencies in the garments into a leeway to laxity. The collections commonly acted calm, and into the excitements of a newly melodramatic season.
By Davide
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Highlight Collection: Alexander Wang Alexander Wang substantially appealed to be pulsating and obscure. He incorporated a presentation of nominal treatments, significantly established in the palette that comprised of solely neutral tints with selected metallic. Consequently the niceties such as pockets, closures, fasteners, and zips; all essentially produce there a pure utilitarian prospective of the garments. Although it’s dazing techniques gave his minimal artistry an embellishment; such like the transparent linear fissures which create a suitable effect.
Osklen Concisely the Brazilian based sportswear house made its New York debut during the spring collections. Seemingly the label already has a valued establishment in the industry, but this season it’s been demonstrated to be accurate. Approaching a contemporary America the clothing acted as an influence of the California surf culture. Including pieces of see-through printed tops encrusted of vibrant oceanic sceneries over silk slacks, thin nylon trousers with the likes of lined tunics, and incorporating additional materials such as linen & neoprene.
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Ralph Lauren Exulting this season Ralph Lauren took the moment to stage away of his comfort, and into a decadence of the opulent cultures of Spanish & Latin American Heritage. Lauren used a palette consisting of snowy whites, pigments of red, turquoise, and lapis. He began through loosely tailored suede tops, occasionally emphasized with leather niceties. Continuing with Lenient gaucho pants, cut on torero jackets; and followed by the encrusted beads in embroideries. Looks included an exuberant shawl colored in the likes of a traditional Mexican pattern also noted in some shoulder bags. The collection finished with an array of dresses including deep ivory silk V-neck gowns, snowy lined blouse above a draped skirt cascading downward, and a few utilizing satin; several selected dresses contained floral details.
Marc Jacobs Following last season’s melodramatic collection filled of passion and rhyme Jacobs briefly turned to a fresh route; towards an added frisky and upbeat quality. Jacobs conveyed a sense of mod sixties tone articulating to New York’s retro frenzied streets in the 60s. The palette involved colors of primary elements such as burgundy, navy blue, beige, sepia, and taupe; frequently steered into striped patterns in many outlines ranging vertically, horizontally, thick, thin, curved, and even slanted. Bags were short and cut square boxes utilizing the striped patterns, heels lazed at short heights also distinguished as “kitten heels”. Stumpy low-slung skirts reined the runway, regularly coordinated along a toning crop tops, shrunken blazers, or shrouding coats. Noteworthy pieces included languid barred maxi dresses and jumpsuits, ruffled collars on fitted satin suits, and the lengthy gowns finished completely from sequins, several using the striped patterns, and some with chiffon cuts exposing skin.
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Oscar de la Renta Spring was unquestionably prominent at Oscar de la Renta; the house showcased an astounding sixty look collection; as well as a soft demure and 50’s dame sense to the pieces. The looks paraded gentle fondled vestments beginning with highwaisted wool and silk pencil skirts below floriated lace tops. White linen, pantsuit and dresses with trimmed niceties certainly gave the collection a nice touch. Graffiti scribble details over lace skirts dwindling ornaments on certain looks, as well as latex florets. Concluding with Duchess satin and silk gowns in nautical strips, boxy cocktail shorts under adjacent peplum tops, and layers of aquamarine tulle and feathers. Everything stood modestly fun, extravagantly meticulous, and purely eloquent.
Jason Wu Influenced by recognized photographers Helmut Newton and Lillian Bassman, the latest Jason Wu collection stands seamlessly finished under his reigning signature silhouettes. The looks particularly engrossed on leather & lace subsequently bringing them together to form seductive qualities. Looks provoked sensual tones; remotely distinguished in the leather taut pencil skirts and several dresses with laser cut embroidery, white chemises too paired leather shorts, lace tops amid cigarette pant. Blue if not coral lace in jumpsuit, bodysuit, as well as dresses; lastly closing in a series of bodysuits with attaching mesh descending in wave. Essentially, the looks executed lucidity and the pieces have full clarity; projecting voluptuous charge.
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London Spring 2013
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London this season provided the fashion world with some amazing collections. Holographics took over some runways and fashion houses defined their brand by aiming to a certain type of woman. The moods of these shows were relaxed and the vibe was great. London is slowly turning more to high fashion with amazing collections by Giles, Issa, Jonathan Saunders, and Christopher Kane. By Estelle
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Highlight Collection: Christopher Kane Between the nut and bolt details this collection was already enough to impress me. Kane took creativity to a whole new level and combined the childhood horrors such as Frankenstein in a cheerful way. Yet the collection still remained young and bright with little bows on pastel fabrics. The electrical tape and appliquéd flowers gave this collection a sense of pureness and the holographic runway was just the perfect finishing touch. Kane created magical monsters that paraded down the runway and the last couple of perfect cocktail dresses finished his Spring 2013 wonderfully.
Giles With the usual intricate laser cutout dresses, the craftsmanship of this collection was surprising in the structure of the dresses. The main inspiration for this collection was seen through the textiles that contained prints of smashed glass. The peter pan collars seemed inconsistent and although the dresses with the majestic horse prints were beautiful, they didn’t belong in this collection. The highlight of this collection was the blue crystal embedded dresses and glass headpieces that were paired perfectly with the neon pink matte lips.
Acne This collection felt a little lost and too mainstream. It wasn’t the Acne regular and was a more casual take than the customary expected. Text t-shirts that mentioned in bold letters: MUSIC wasn’t really necessary. There were some exceptional looks and parts scattered throughout that caught my attention such as the pastel colored maxi skirts and the harnesses. Although this was a pretty collection that is sure to sell well among customers, it didn’t do anything to make me want more or look forward to the next collection.
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Jonathan Saunders Between the nut and bolt details this collection was already enough to impress me. Kane took creativity to a whole new level and combined the childhood horrors such as Frankenstein in a cheerful way. Yet the collection still remained young and bright with little bows on pastel fabrics. The electrical tape and appliquĂŠd flowers gave this collection a sense of pureness and the holographic runway was just the perfect finishing touch. Kane created magical monsters that paraded down the runway and the last couple of perfect cocktail dresses finished his Spring 2013 wonderfully.
Issa The beauty for this collection was s-t-u-n-ni-n-g and carried a Hawaiian theme through the orchids in the hair of the models. The dresses were beautiful but nothing incredibly new. The last three looks had gorgeous prints that were paired with gold accessories really bringing out the detail.
Matthew Williamson Loved the faded print pantsuits and the incredible shoes, Williamson tailored this collection to the young audience with radiant prints embellished with gems and embroidery. The shoes were equally impressive with skyscraping-jagged platforms showing his ability to reach into other parts of the fashion industry. Williamson is one of the few designers that can incorporate all colors into a cohesive collection. My favorite prints were the mountain silk screens and I just wish it were included in more than just two looks.
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Trend Report: Studs & Spikes
Studs and spikes have been hitting the runways ever since punks and metalheads first introduced them in the 70’s and 80’s. Now they are back to stay and now you can get them right into your closet in the most fashionable way. Written by: Diego PAGE 21 | ejing magazine
How To Wear It
Studs were originally worn mostly with leather, but now you can wear them with anything you want. They will always give a punkette-chic air to your whole outfit. They can be added on anything: from collars and headbands to bags and shoes. The best part is, you can add studs to your garments by DIY projects. Check out some YouTube tutorials and spike up your life! PAGE 22 | ejing magazine
Examples on how to wear studs & Spikes
Where can I get inspiration? Easy. Although big maisons such as Valentino or Balmain are constantly using this trend on the runways, they can add up to be very pricey. Some stores such as Zara, H&M, Forever 21, and Stradivarius among others carry this trend at reasonable prices. PAGE 23 | ejing magazine
Sets inspired by the trend 1. Prabal Gurung Button Down Blouse, $1,025, kirnazabete.com 2. River Island Short Shorts, $40, riverisland.com 3. Christian Louboutin Spiked Pigalle, $850, christianlouboutin.com 4. Black Mega Spike Necklace, $20.79, newlook.com 5. Valentino Shoulder Bag, $1795, bloomgindales.com
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6. Rag & Bone Pullover Sweater, $350, lagarconne.com 7. J Brand Denim 620 Light-Blue Low-Rise Skinny Jeans, $175, net-a-porter.com 8. Christian Louboutin Slip On Shoes $745, net-aporter.com 9. Asos Stone Jewelry, 7 $21.11, asos.com 10. Christian Louboutin iPad case, $795, net-aporter.com
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Milan Spring 2013
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Milan brought the most promising collections this season with a variety of fashion forward trends and star studded shows. Prada had shoes, Fendi had colors, Etro had florals, Alberta Ferretti had details, and Jil Sander welcomed Jil Sander back. Minimalism was back onto the runways this season taking new forms. Many designers kept the simple silhouette but embellished and beautified them by creating looks out of different textiles and textures. The color palette for this season was mostly whites, black, and shades of blues and pinks. By Paulina
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Prada
The whole composition was perfectly executed though it was hard to absorb at first, but then everything, every details had a meaning. The Japanese aesthetics combined with a modern look gave an original feeling. One of the things that was very controversial was the shoes, it was and artistic way to put in practice something no one could imagine doing. Embellished platforms with silk and satin-like socks and decorative bows were perfectly combined with the unexpected furs and the poppy orientated looks.
Jil Sander
Modern and futuristic minimalism would be words that describe this collection. It is very difficult to make something plain attractive. From every detail to the whole look one could see that it is very well tailored. Now that Jil Sander has returned back to her own brand, it is very interesting on how she tailors the brand to a certain woman. She knows how to put everything together and is leading the brand in a new and hopeful direction.
Fendi
A very strong collection, different from the past collections, it had a twist of what we normally wouldn't see at Fendi. With no shortage of color, the color palette was desirable and many pieces had a feminine look. It was a perfect combination of pastel to dark colors ending with beautiful sequin dresses and coats.
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Alberta Ferretti
It was all about the details. Every little detail made the whole look very interesting to look at as well as intriguing. This collection was very dynamic, with a lot of movement, every piece looked elegant and delicate. Even though this wasn’t groundbreaking new fashion, it was a very pleasant show to watch unfold.
Marni
Oversized pieces and minimalistic looks were the highlights from this collection but it wasn’t the only attention grabbing part. As for the big coasts and skirts, it gave the collection a very clean, polished, and sophisticated look. The last dresses were one of the greatest creations of this season. They were definitely something to remember and would look perfect on the red carpet.
Etro
Flowers in a spring and summer collection are very predicable and sometimes too repetitive, but if they are used right—it can give excellent results. Etro this time managed to make flowers work. Combined with vibrant colors and solid shapes this collection was striking in every way.
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Shimmer and Shine Surprise the crowed with this outfit. It is an unexpected twist on a classic outfit. Be sexy, bold, confident, and daring all at the same time. I mean, how could you not? Everyone is envious of your outfit! By Estelle
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1. Haute Hippie Junk Sequin Cowl Top, $395, hautehippie.com 2. Piamita Clemence High-Waisted Shorts, $270, kirnazabete.com 3. NARS Lipgloss in Larger than Life, $26, nordstrom.com 4. Balenciaga Tube Round L Dark Grey, $1,945, balenciaga.com 5. Christian Louboutin Pigalili Plato, $3,595, christianlouboutin.com
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The Age of Designer Collaborations Maison Martin Margiela and Anna Dello Russo for H&M Designer collaborations have hit the fashion world hard in the last five years. They have attracted normal consumers to high-end retailers such as Jimmy Choo, Versace, Lanvin, and Jason Wu. H&M, a Swedish retailer, has led these collaborations causing customers to queue up in the wee hours of the morning before the store opens to grab limited-edition pieces that could be soon a piece of fashion history. Does the built up anticipation lead to the execution and quality everyone expects? By Estelle Wong
ANNA DELLO RUSSO
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Hits stores: October 4, 2012
Hits stores: November 15, 2012
Anna Dello Russo tries to bring the glitz and the glam into everyday lives of customers by offering a collection of mostly gold and turquoise accessories. All priced within $24.95 baroque earrings to $299 shoes, all the pieces reflect Anna Dello Russo’s personal style and it would all be something that she would wear. The only downside is that many of the charm bracelets and clutches do come off as cheap simply because they don’t look well made. The crocodile sunglasses are my personal favorite as well as the turquoise luggage with the baroque detailing. Overall, Dello Russo brought her own personal aesthetic into this accessory collection and it drew the eyes of many people.
Classic and classy silhouettes make this collaboration unique in everyway. A take on the archives of this fashion house and inspired by their statement pieces. Although fusion dresses aren’t a favorite for most customers, it provides the public eye with high fashion. The metallic foil candy wrapper clutches are a must have on my list simply because of its color and the idea of carrying around a clutch that looks like a candy wrapper. Elegance was also evident in this collection with asymmetrical dresses, circle shirts, wedges, and silk tops that took a new spin on classic silhouettes. Prices range from 14.95 to 399 at select H&M locations around the world.
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Glitzy Rollerblader Take a time off from your hectic schedule and roll through Central Park. Brace the chilly weather to rock out in statement pieces by Jeremy Scott, Acne, and Urbanears. By Estelle Wong
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1. Acne Clementine Cable Sweater, $240, lagarconne.com 2. Motel Sequin Short in Iridescent Green, $50, motelrocks.com 3. Urbanears Plattan Denim Headphones, $60, nordstrom.com 4. Jeremy Scott Collage Backpack, $480, farfetch.com 5. C. Wonder Roller Skates, not available 6. iPod Nano, $149, apple.com
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Highlight Shoes of PAGE 33 | ejing magazine
Spring /Summer 2013 PAGE 34 | ejing magazine
FIFTY SHADES OF BLUE
From faint shades of sky blue to its darker, midnight counterpart, blue has blossomed into the color of S/S 13. It is no surprise that all-powerful, reigning queen of color; Pantone, has named Monaco Blue the “it” color of the season. In times of uncertainty and frantic distress, the moment was perfectly seized for the calming tranquility that blue evokes to take over fashion. Designers all across the globe have embraced blue’s beauty by individually interpreting it’s hues to create moving collections freeing the mind, body & soul. By Taylor
Carolina Herrera Givenchy Theyskens’ Theory
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Acne
Alberta Ferretti
Chanel
Jeremy Scott Anna Sui
David Koma
Mulberry
Trend Report: Prints & Patterns By Taylor
S/S 13 is alive with vivid color. Appearing frequently in spurts, accenting otherwise simple garments. Abundant in the collections were bursts of scarlet hues, which gave structured garments a playful pop.
REBECCA MINKOFF
DOLCE & GABBANA
TEMPERLEY LONDON
PRADA
High contrast statements staring black & white– the ultimate juxtaposition. Next level S/S 13 features headto-toe ensembles for maximum drama.
MARC JACOBS
LOUIS VUITTON
MOSCHINO
ROBERT RODRIGUEZ
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Fashion In Technology Diane von Furstenburg Spring 2013 | NYFW By Estelle
â?Ś Diane von Frustenburg debuted her Spring Summer 2013 collection in New York Fashion Week with new innovative accessories: the Google Glass. Google Glass was first developed by Google and has also appeared in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. These wearable computers have become an instant fashion statement-creating buzz among the industry since their runway debuts. Its features include a processor, multiple microphones, and a small speaker. The ability of these glasses is incredible acting as a computer in front if your eyes, reading your mind. This collection will lead and propel technology into fashion throughout the next seasons with designers incorporating incredible technological parts into their designs and presentations.
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Fashion’s front row (n): A gathering of the world’s chicest, most notable, fashion forward, self-expressing individuals to witness the latest and greatest in fashion. The front row was once a watering hole for only the finest magazine editors, CEOs, A-list celebs and notorious fashion icons; all expressing themselves freely, setting precedent for fashion trends and inspiring fashionistas. In recent years, an evolution of the front row has occurred, an evolution for the worst if I may say. Personal style of some individuals has morphed in corporate branding and tasteless product placement from the finest fashion houses. With bloggers and celebrities hogging the spotlight, brands seek out the opportunity to outfit these walking billboards head-to-toe, advertising to everyone who’s looking. Although this route to endless complimentary clothing is taken by many, true icons have stayed true to their aesthetic, giving in to no one and continuing on rockin’ that look people admired in the first place. Fashion week yields iconic looks, effortless style and impeccable taste – the following women (& James Goldstein) stood out amongst a sea brand whoring guppies By Taylor Bittner
Anna Della Russo: Doing it bigger and bolder.
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L to R: Kelly Osborne at Chris Benz, Bryan Boy at Marc Jacobs, Camilla Bella at Michael Kors, Michelle Harper at Jason Wu
L to R: Ulyana at Dolce & Gabbana, Nadege du Bospertus at Roberto Cavalli, Carine Roitfeld at Versace, Filippa Lagerback at Roberto Cavalli
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L to R: Dita Von Teese at Phillip Tracey, Kate Moss at Mulberry, Kelly Osborne at House of Holland, Susie Bubble at Acne
R to L: James Goldstein at Lanvin, MIA at Stella McCartney, Dree Hemingway at Balmain, Leigh Lezark at Giambattista Valli
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Paris Spring 2013 By Raul
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This season Paris was the perfect place where fashion and art meets and creates this harmonic dialogue for clothes. Reworking concepts from basic clothes was the ongoing theme for Spring 2013. The new proposition was about how essential black clothes are. They are universal clothes that no matter where you are at, it always sends the right message. Each designer concentrates on the individuality of women, how they are so unique and the way they dress always reflects their lifestyle. It seems that this season designers decided to step up their game to make clothes more wearable and desired by the international costumers. Sexy became also part of the dialogue fashion is taking to a new level by doing sexy in their own way, not the generic tight, short dress. Fashion is now about styling and this season designers created separates to adapt clothes to the woman of today. And now that all theatricality of fashion is nearly gone, with designers like Christian Lacroix, John Galliano, and Alexander McQueen, fashion is going towards a more simple and minimal design stage in which the clothes is more wearable and accessible to consumers all over the world. By Raul
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Highlight Collection: Christian Dior Christian Dior is one of the most prestigious fashion houses in the world, with rich history and archives, Raf Simons would be a fool if he didn’t look back to look forward. As the first three looks walked down the runway, ”the Diorettes” wore Raf’s take on the famous ‘Bar Suit’ that revolutionized the way women wore clothes by staying with the same idea of transforming classic pieces and turning them into luxurious iconic pieces of the New Dior. The proposition of making a short coat into a dress and be versatile, gave the new Dior women options. Futurism was also a keyword for Mr. Simons. Taking silhouettes from the archives directly and adding that simple, contemporary feeling by changing the fabrics and length was simply genius. Innovation in clothes is very add to achieve since almost everything has been done already, yet for this collection there was a bright future of innovative clothes walking easily in front of people’s eyes. At the very end, the last dresses were the perfect combination of both ‘old’ and the ‘new’ Dior; dresses that had that DNA of classic Christian Dior and a small pinch of Raf Simons to bring a new generation of fashion.
Look 1
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Look 2
Look 3
Dries Van Noten
look from head to toe with the same color matching.
Look 32
Simplicity is always the right way to go when it comes to clothes. Dries decided to continue doing what he does season after season, creating clothing that can be mixed into closets easily. The idea was to create separates that are universal. The fabrics ranged from plaids to tridimensional workmanship on coats and skirts to sheer floral prints. All those fabrics don’t seem to really work together in good harmony, but managed to give richness to the clothes through beautiful styling. This season it seemed that it was about options, giving women selections to change and mix. And even though the collection was quite big, that gave the illusion that for what women wanted this season. Not just one
Look 5
Balenciaga Modernizing traditional Spanish clothes, Nicolas Ghesquière worked the concept of what Mr. Balenciaga was known for; the generic white shirt and the boxy boyfriend blazer. Jackets were paired over cropped tops and with pants or his new version of long skirts. This season, he focused on the mixture of tough and sexy. By showing off legs and torso of women, this particular collection had twist when it came to proportions. Switching traditional suits by modifying the length of the skirts gave a new touch of subtle femininity. The wow factor was definitely in the details of the clothes, not heavily styled. The Balenciaga woman now wants to be sexy, moving away from serious clothes. Nicolas wanted women to explore with their sex appeal and to not be afraid of showing off their body. Adding contemporary cuts to simple jackets, pants, and dresses
Lanvin
Look 20
changed the atmosphere of the collection. Taking a jacket and constructing it using different tones and adding a small touch of sweetness was how the collection started. The collection featured looks mimicking the surroundings of the building with a print of the torso of old sculptures of women. Later on, the concept of bright and dark came together to create a contrast in the looks, which had shinny embroidery over dark clothes. Lanvin is known for its simplicity in clothes and Alber Elbaz creates collections that changes a normal, little, black dress into an iconic piece. At the end of the collection all the heavy silhouettes went away and it focused on simple tube dresses with a Lanvin touch of femininity and toughness at the same time.
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Look 24
Chloé Layering was the starting point of this season’s Chloé girl. Normally a sheer shirt would go over another shirt, but this time designer Clare Waight Keller wanted to change that type of layering clothes. Putting sheer shirts under cropped tops gave the looks a touch of sweetness rather than sexy. Ruffled shirts, collars, skirts, and dresses were present this season. Placing sheer fabrics over shorts made layers more visible. Instead of having floral prints, the clothes had tridimensional flowers placed on a pair of pants and a sheer white shirt with elongated sleeves. The construction in dresses was tough, yet not too much because of the light color palette. Light clothes with heavy-looking accessories played well with the contrasts in the clothes. The idea was to show but not too much, still covering the body with short clothing pieces.
Haider Ackermann
Look 36
Storyteller is the first word that comes to people’s minds when it comes to presentations from Haider Ackermann. Inspired by a recent trip he did to his hometown country Colombia, Haider took urban elements from the surroundings to create his latest collection for spring. It is normal for him to have a dark color palette but this time it was taken up a notch. The presentation was unique, each model walked slowly, perhaps it was a way to really concentrate on each piece individually. And with that pace the clothes became a poem in a way and Ackermann was the astonishing poet with a romantic mind. The construction of the clothes was entirely focused on tailoring with small touches of delicate lace and polka dots. The fit of the clothes was at its best. The way pants and shirts fit as if they became part of the body. Layering of the same clothing pieces with different prints changed the way layering is known for and it gave structure to the body. Haider is one of the most talented designers and storytellers of our times and this collection highlighted him at his best.
Balmain Inspired by the 90’s revolution of androgynous clothing, Olivier Rousteing managed to change proportions for woman by accentuating the shoulders and waist at the same time. The first part of the collection maximized the idea of men’s clothes on the jackets and fixing the fit a woman’s tiny waist. Moving with the same idea, the following dresses were very strong and feminine at the same time. Hard to make a wicker dress move, the idea of women wearing something so tough yet making it look so easy fitting and comfortable. The dresses were almost entirely embroidered by a women’s best friend. Ironically, the collection featured denim looks, which would be oddly considered as luxurious; but Olivier made entire looks out of denim and still making it look very rich. At the very end, the collection fused both ideas and giving this harmony between both sides of women, strong and though mixed with delicate and sexy.
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Gareth Pugh Few designers know how to mix art and fashion equally, yet Gareth Pugh knows which elements of both to mix to create a stunning collection. As ”Llorando” by Rebekah del Rio played during the presentation, the models has a single tear drop on their cheek, it was not a normal Pugh collection happening. As the collection continued the women starts to become happier and she becomes alive with the whites and reds. Emotions are something designers don’t really keep in mind while presenting a collection, yet women actually do buy and wear clothes according to their emotions. Gareth comprehends women and their lifestyles. Fashion for him, is more than just clothes; its about this dialogue between women and their lifestyle.
Miu Miu Every season trends change, styling changes, clothes changes, everything changes, yet, in a way, everything is basically the same until someone like Miuccia Prada changes things a little. This season was about clothes from other parts of the world would appreciate since not everyone has sunny springs. Fur would be very odd choice for spring, yet for Miuccia it simply felt right. Adding to the mix, leather pieces done in light colors took away the toughness that leather would initially appear to be. Long dresses and coats was part of the inner sexiness this woman has. New propositions for accessories were the odd mixture of metal and beautiful diamonds. Leather handbags mimicking the same effect the prints of the clothes had of old leather added a touch of nostalgia. It was a clear message of maturity in fashion.
Chanel Blowing up iconic Chanel pieces was the idea of Karl Lagerfeld for this season. A subtle message from Karl was proposed for this season, it’s all about clothes not the crazy-logo branding which he made popular back in the mid 90’s. Pearls seemed to be a universal language any woman would immediately acknowledge as luxurious and contemporary. Throughout all the collection pearls were exaggerated and embellished to the clothes by doing the same treatment on the accessories, yet in bigger proportions by using different sizes and colors of pearls. Starting with an all black and white colors palette that slowly injected some neutral colors and later some bright ones. Lagerfeld changed the typical Chanel tweed jacket and to modernize it by shortening the length. The last floral dresses were about the starting point of the collection, the idea of nature and energy. Both nature, being something that is renewed by us, and nature, being the attitude of freshness people should have when it comes to dressing.
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Givenchy People all over the world fall in love with Givenchy every season. And it is not new for Riccardo Tisci to create clothes that become so iconic and recognizable anywhere you are. This season he took two different ideas and mixed them into one collection. Playing with hard and soft, the Givenchy woman is always sexy in her own way. Ruffled pieces seemed right after seasons of prints, focusing on the tailoring of the clothes. The proportion of the sleeves changed and instead of being squared they were round. The color palette was almost entirely black and white with touches of gold on the accessories. And movement seems to be in Riccardo’s mind while still playing with the hard and soft with the skirts over the pants. In a way, the collection was very heavy at the beginning and slowly the collection became more free and easy; ending with a completely loose, white shirt over a tank top and white pants. Purity was the keyword this season, the pureness in clothes, the more clean and simple, the better.
Viktor & Rolf Mirrors were the main inspiration for Viktor and Rolf when designing for this season’s woman. Surely we all have heard them refer to that woman as a ”goddess”. From the first to the last look, you can easily tell the collection was different from past collections we’ve seen with exaggerated concepts. It seemed that they are also trying to play the same game other designers are into, making clothes be more wearable to the public. Sure theatricality makes a runway presentation more outstanding but spending more time on modifying their clothes to the modern women of today. Taking draping to a new level, pants, leotards, coats, or dresses and draped fabric over to give the illusion of movement and at one point both fabrics met and morphed into new pieces of clothing. Metallic elements formed part of this collection, from shoes to belts and also pieces of mirrors forming either bows or flowers. The remarkable workmanship done with those layers of tulle were simply amazing, the long coat in particular. The women Viktor and Rolf dress acknowledge they love unique clothing pieces with touches of sweetness.
Alexander McQueen Nature has always been a great factor that inspired McQueen throughout his iconic collections. Sarah Burton took that into consideration especially with one insect in particular, bees. Although it may not be fair for the bees that we take away their most precious work of art, Sarah decided to pay homage to those diligent workers. Giving the illusion of darkness by first glimpse, this collection was about the sweetness in clothes. Attention to detail is also the key to a McQueen collection. The second half of the collection concentrated on the tough woman transforming into a princess. The huge floral ball gowns and the short bee embroidered dresses were quite literal when it came to sweetness in women. This was all about a woman with different sides to her and perhaps Sarah Burton wants woman to not be afraid to be both at the same time.
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Beauty from the Runway By Maria
Elie Saab is by far my most favorite designer out there. But the makeup choice to pair with the looks this season was definitely not the best for these models. I adore the texture and design of these dresses but the makeup simply does not compliment it well. I would suggest going for a more natural look and bold red lips to go with these these evening gowns. Although the makeup choice was not the best for this collection, it is easy to recreate this smoky eye for a daily look. Use the suggested products from the set on the right for a glowing look!
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1. Chanel Blending Foundation Brush #7, $54, nordstrom.com 2. Chanel Vitalumière Aqua Ultra-Light Skin Perfecting Makeup SPF 15, $45, nordstrom.com 3. Burberry Beauty Lip Glow Cameo Pink No. 07, $27, burberry.com 4. NARS Night Collection Eyeshadow in Night Breed, $24, barneys.com 5. Yves Saint Laurent Mascara Volume Effect Faux, $30, bloomingdales.com 6. MAC Glamour Daze Lips Lipstick, $17, nordstrom.com
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By Taylor
Hussein Chalayan
Burberry
Chanel
Reliving the glorious 90’s In fantastic plastic, paving the way to a more visible future. You’ve got nothing to hide.
Givenchy
Givenchy
Burberry
Charlotte Ronson
John Paul Gaultier Anna Sui
Giles
Taking the cherry on top to a whole new level. Hiding bad hair days has never been so damn chic.
Vivienne Westwood
Giles
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Temperley London
Philip Treacy
Stellar Soundtracks of Spring 2013
By Thomas
By Thomas Marc Jacobs | NYFW: “Copped It” by The Fall Proenza Schouler | NYFW: “How Can I Resist U” by Fatima Al Qadiri Alexander Wang | NYFW: 1. “Putcha Back In It” by Dj Sliink 2. Yaow! by Baauer 3. “Bonkers” by Jay Fay & Ra Cailum 4. “Harlem Shake” by Baauer 5. “Putcha Back In It” by Dj Sliink 6. “Epic” by Sandro Silva & Quintino Rodarte 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
NYFW: "Decora" by Yo La Tengo "Bordeaux" by The Durutti Column "Invisible Man" by The Breeders "A Forest" by The Cure "Third Uncle" by Brian Eno |
Versus | MFW: 1. “Standing in the Way of Control” by Gossip 2. “Listen Up! by Gossip 3. “Heavy Cross by Gossip
Visit our official page to listen to the entire soundtrack
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Spoil Your Ears Dress up any simple or minimal outfit with statement earrings that will attract a million compliments wherever you go. Go with simple colors and silhouettes to let these earring do all the talking. By Estelle Wong
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1. Oscar de la Renta Leaf Sculpture Earrings, $240, oscardelarenta.com 2. Dolce & Gabbana Earrings, $395, thecorner.com 3. Oscar de la Renta Waterfall Stone Earring, $345, oscardelarenta.com 4. Dolce & Gabbana Gold-Tone Clip Earrings, $1,145, net-a-porter.com 5. Dannijo Cecile Turquoise, $390, jades24.com 6. Tom Binns Soft Powder Pink Teardrop Earrings, $240, modaoperandi.com
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Credit COVER // Images courtesy of stylebistro.com TOC // Page 3-4 Images courtesy stylebistro.com and ftape.com Editors Note // Page 5 Image courtesy of stylebistro.com NYFW Spring 2013 // Page 11-15 Images courtesy of GoRunway.com and stylebistro.com LFW Spring 2013 // Page 17-20 Image courtesy of stylebistro.com Trend Report: Studs & Spikes // Page 21-23 Images courtesy of jasmology.com, styledityinathens.blogspot.com, tiffanysquared.com MFW Spring 2013 // Page 25-28 Images courtesy of stylebistro.com Anna Dello Russo & Maison Martin Margiela // Page 31 Images courtesy of aisaipac.com and elitedaily.com Spring 2013 Shoe Collage // Page 33-34 Images courtesy of stylebirstro.com Runway Trends: Prints, Patterns, and Colors // Page 35-36 Images courtesy of stylebistro.com Technology in Fashion // Page 37 Images courtesy of stylebistro.com Front Row Fashion // Page 38 Images courtesy of stylebistro.com and style.com PFW Spring 2013 // Page 41-47 Images courtesy of stylebistro.com Beauty from the Runway // Page 49 Images courtesy of stylebistro.com Accessory Trends // Page 51 Images courtesy of stylebistro.com
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EJING magazine OCTOBER 2012 ISSUE 2
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