We are a team Editing and Management Anabel García-Plata Roberto Hinojo Jiménez El Costurero Patterns S.C www.elcostureropattern.com
Artistic direction and Design and layout Like a Wave www.likeawave.es
Cover Verónica Algaba www.veronicaalgaba.blogspot.com.es
Editing Anabel García-Plata www.elcostureropattern.com Rafael García Rodríguez www.laplumayelpincel.blogspot.com.es
Proofreading Teresa Melendo www.laboresenelpaseo.blogspot.com.es
Photography
Nesta Vázquez www.nestavazquez.tk Mhina Barrio www.mhinabarrio.com
Illustration
Nazaret Escobedo www.nzrt.com Izaskun Canales www.ulumulu.es
Collaborators Lourdes Bermejo www.loulitas.com Mercedes Gª-Plata Cuevas Concha Gª-Plata Cuevas Montserrat Rivas
Website and Email
www.elcostureropattern.com orders@elcostureropattern.com
------------------------------------------El Costurero © ISBN 978-84-617-3312-5 Número de depósito legal: SE 886-2013 All rights reserved
Introduction 3 Chicadecanela 6 The Indie Cub 12 Diario de una Couturier 18 Andrea Martínez 24
Index Marilene D’sastre 30 Loulitas 36 La Fibra 42 Patrones 58 Remake 70 Personalizing 78 Terms and definitions Glossery 94 Filling the sewing box 98
Introduction
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This new volume of El Costurero is dedicated to fashion and sewing. We would like to share, throughout the pages of this edition, the great satisfaction you can get by making an item of clothing for yourself. The eight designers, whose work we have highlighted here, show this same kind of passion when using their sewing machines. Some have extensive experience in the design sector, such as Chicadecanela o Loulitas; others experiment and have created their own “textile laboratory”(La Fibra); others have found their niche in menswear (Marilene D´sastre) or children’s clothing (The Indie Cub); whilst others have recreated garments from other decades for clients that come to their studio(Andrea Martínez). In the section, El Costurero’s Patterns, we encourage you to create your own wardrobe, by turning old clothes into new ones; or by discovering how to adapt patterns from the 20s, 30s and 40s into the latest styles and fashion. If you’d like to take it a step further, you can also learn how to put your own stamp on the garments you make. Happy sewing!
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-------------------------------------DESIGNERS
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After ten years in the world of accessories, Chicadecanela premieres as a designer of prêt à porter.
Chicadecanela
FASHION AND ACCESSORY DESIGNER
--------------------------------------------------------------------www.chicadecanela.com
Having the need to not remain stagnant and to continue offering new things in 2015, she will present the first dresses created by the brand: 6 · Designers
“I think the design of a collection of prêt-à-porter is reaching a new height: creating several outfits from head to toe (including shoes), is something aspirational for any designer. And also very complicated. “ If in the world of accessories, Lucia has used the slogan “Mini Couture”, her first fashion collection has been described as “Vintage Now”. With this new line she wishes to lay the foundations for Chicadecanela style : “I don’t care so much about thematic collections, completely changing the style every season, but to create and develop, collection after collec-
Photos: Juan Araujo
Lucía Dorado, a Galician entreprenuer, has dedicated more than a decade to the world of fashion. In 2005, she created Chicadecanela, a handmade accessory brand, when at that time there didn’t exist, at least in Spain, such a variety of accessories as nowadays. Her line includes various models of bags made in fabric or felt, which little by little has evolved into more sophisticated designs in leather.
Another feature of this Galician brand is the special attention given to textile design, in addition to the pattern of the garment itself. Lucia has always been a lover of natural fabrics, but over time she has discovered more sophisticated, sustainable and creative fabrics other than “many linens and silks of dubious origin.” In this first collection, although cotton makes up 90% of it, she has opted for recycled polyester, similar to a “quilted fabric which is colorfast, won’t wrinkle, and doesn’t need ironing”, and the results have been
7 · Chicadecanela
tion, my brand identity. I want to make something modern, researching new materials, experimenting with finishes ... until a simple design emerges, polished, without extravagance, without looking like a costume at all; pretty dresses, wearable clothes.” Another important point for the designer is the price and the conditions in which her garments are made: “I wanted this new product line to be affordable, and also manufactured in Europe, with European fabrics. A collection with reasonable prices, making simple garments, eliminating the superfluous. I am very happy that most Chicadecanela dresses will be sold in stores for between 85 and 130 €, and with impeccable tailoring, quality fabrics, and with their own original design. “
dresses that appear retro,” but in reality are very modern, as were so many modern garments of the 60s “. Therefore, all textiles come from Europe (the vast majority are from Portuguese manufacturers, which is where all the prototypes have
8 · Designers
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“I want to stay away from the fashion game and remain here, in my own
been made), thus minimizing the “carbon footprint”, making a sustainable local product and using humane production conditions. They only work with like-minded people and friends, people they feel comfortable with and who
Although the followers of this brand will always recognize the style, it has matured, perhaps because Lucy confesses that her own work, and life as well as her vision of fashion have evolved hand in hand with her designs: “truthfully I design for myself, for my taste, that changes, that calls for different things. They are garments that are nice, easy to wear, flattering ... clothes that are sold exclusively in boutique shops, which offer a different product. I think the same audience that appreciated the collection of handbags and jewelry will now like, in the same way, the clothing collection.” The purpose of this Galician designer is to make clothes with individuality, you can buy a piece one year and still wear it the next, or whenever you fancy.
9 · Nombre del diseñador
love (most of the time) their work.
How to make a Birdie Brooch One of the iconic pieces of Chicadecanela is birds. During the last ten years, the collections made by this artisan brand, has always included the “birdie” made of different materials. With the right fabric and a
couple of stitches, we can make an accessory to treasure for a lifetime. One of the most important pieces that Lucía Dorado has given us.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
10 · Diseñadores
Photos: Lucía Dorado
Two square pieces of cloth (10 x 10 cm) in either solid colors or prints Needle and embroidery thread Ribbon Brooch backing Fabric markers Wadding
11 · Chicadecanela
1
2 Put both squares together, right sides facing, and draw on one side the outline of our “birdie”, using the template.
3
Preparing brooch shaped bird. Sew along the line (it is important not to forget to leave an opening of about 2 cm to turn the piece inside out).
4 The padding. Then turn the piece inside out, fill it with wadding and embroider the eye before closing (Hint: it embroiders best when the piece is already filled). You may also use lavender and turn this brooch into a drawer sachet.
Final steps. Finally, just sew the bow or brooch, if you want it to be an accessory, or ribbon, if you’d like to use it as a pendant.