PIDIELLE S.p.A.
mother science
GUIDELINES
Mother Science Guidelines outline the Elgon Green and Imagea standards. Certiquality reviewed them and carried out an inspection at the Pidielle SpA production site in order to verify truthfulness and compliance with the contents of the document. Below is the inspection certificate:
INSPECTION CERTIFICATE N. 25458
PIDIELLE SpA I – 20014 NERVIANO (MI) – VIA BERGAMINA 7
OPERATIVE UNITS I – 20014 NERVIANO (MI) – VIA BERGAMINA 7
We hereby certify that the Inspection gave a positive result regarding the review and application of the document issued . by, and property of PIDIELLE SpA: «DISCIPLINARY MOTHER SCIENCE » revision 01 of 16/01/2018.
Inspection date: January 9 th and 16th, 2018 Certificate of Inspection emission date: February 14th, 2018
C ISP 17020 Pidielle 06.02.2018
This document is limited to date and place of Inspection only and therefore CERTIQUALITY Srl shall not be considered responsible for what could happen in different places or later time. Our Inspection does not absolve PIDIELLE SpA from his contractual obligations towards his Clients and from the respect of laws governing its activity.
CERTIQUALITY S.r.l. ISTITUTO DI CERTIFICAZIONE DELLA QUALITÀ Via G. Giardino, 4 - 20123 Milano - Tel. 02/8069171 Fax. 02/86465295 certiquality@certiquality.it - www.certiquality.it
1
For scientist there is no contradiction between Chemistry and Nature. All metabolic processes in nature can be put down in term of Chemistry and Physics. Life and Nature without Chemistry do not exist. Dr. J. Spengler
2
mother science
- rev. 02
Contents Mother Science Guidelines 1.Introduction
2.Area of application and definitions 3.Objectives
4.The cosmetic product 4.1 Ingredients 4.2 Packaging
pag
4
pag
4
pag
5
pag
6
pag
7
pag
7
pag
9
5.Ethics and the environment 5.1 Respect of water 5.2 Respect for the atmosphere 5.3 Sustainability of palm oil 5.4 Social commitment 5.5 HALAL Certification 5.6 Vegan-Friendly Products
pag 10
ANNEX 1
pag 14
pag 10 pag 11 pag 11 pag 12 pag 12 pag 13
ANNEX 2
pag 33
MOTHER SCIENCE VALUES
pag 39
Some sustainability suggestions for green hairstylists pag 38
3
Mother Science Guidelines Elgon Green was born from the need for more “ethical” cosmetics that still provide good performance and quality results. This is the credo, ever more staunchly held, that droves us toward creating the Mother Science Guidelines so we could be certain that our products are innovative and functional as well as protective of the health of our end users and the environment. It cannot be denied that in today’s cultural context, environmental sustainability is a significant issue, and that it will certainly continue to be so. This is dependent on the fact that to respect ourselves we must safeguard the environment that surrounds us. Being ecological has become a necessity. However, analysing natural products on the market, we have become aware that organic haircare cosmetics rarely meet the performance requirements of hairstylists or their customers, since they were not designed for the professional salon product channel. At Elgon, we pay attention to all the demands of the market. We are aware of the fact that our customers expect effective products, beside being ‘Green’. What does being ‘Green’ mean? At Elgon being ‘Green’ means adopting certain types of behaviour that are respectful of the environment around us. This includes making choices, among the innumerable possibilities, that guarantee the highest level possible of naturalness. Elgon Green is not just a simple fad. It is the product coming from rigorous scientific research, which has enabled us to show that excellent results can be achive using naturally derived raw materials. That is how IMAGEA was born.
We believe that a set of production specifications would be the sincerest method we could use to communicate our choices to consumers.
1.Introduction The Mother Science Guidelines are divided into four areas. • Explanation of the area of application and definition of the key terms in the specifications • The objectives set out in the specifications • The criteria used to choose ingredients and packages • Ethics and environment: what have we really done to promote environmental sustainability through our products. These specifications have two annexes where all of the ingredients we have used in our IMAGEA product line are listed. • Annex 1: Imagea Haircare and Tissue Mask ingredients
4
• Annex 2: Imagea Haircolor Line ingredients For each ingredient, there will be listed its • Characteristics and functions; • CAS number (numeric identifier); • Origin; • OECD indicators of biodegradability; • Classification according to the Biodizionario [Bio-dictionary], which provides information on how natural any given product is. The Biodizionario (www.biodizionario.it) is an authoritative and historical website where any ingredient found in cosmetics can be checked. For nearly 20 years, with its collection of nearly 5,000 substances used in cosmetics, it has paved the way in Italy toward creating greater consumer awareness. The ingredients are evaluated using a coloured traffic light system, illustrated below, to indicate the substance’s Dermo-compatibility and its effects on the environment.
• • • • •
• • • • •
Beneficial - Certainly harmless Harmless To be verified Harmful Unacceptable
The Biodizionario was chosen as a tool for the assessment of the ingredients used in Elgon Mother Science products. Because it is based on criteria founded on scientific research and toxicological data, the Biodizionario complies with the evaluations and restrictions imposed by many certification agencies operating in the natural cosmetics industry. Ingredients are assessed from different standpoints. Therefore, if a substance is synthetic, but performs important functions in the product (such as a preservative), it is not considered harmful or unacceptable because its significance is acknowledged. • Bibliography.
2.Area of application and definitions These specifications refer to cosmetic products defined and regulated by Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, which provides the common definition of a cosmetic product. The Regulation also contains a series of provisions that ensure the safety of cosmetic products from several points of view (from manufacturing methods to the control of the ingredients, from the obligation of information stated on the label to the assessments to be performed by experts). • Cosmetic product: (taken from Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009) indicates any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body or with the teeth and the mucous
5
membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours.
• Primary packaging: this is the product’s first package or container, which directly holds the product for marketing and which comes into direct contact with the cosmetic product.
• Secondary packaging: this is the product’s second package or container, which holds the product in the primary packaging and which does not come into contact with the cosmetic product. • Natural origin: water, minerals and mineral origin ingredients are of natural origin.
• Plant origin: these are ingredients derived from plants are of plant origin, including those that are physically transformed and/ or chemically treated.
• Synthetic origin: these are all the ingredients obtained through chemical synthesis, ie, that are synthetic or man made. • Organic: these are products from a production system in compliance with Regulation (EC) No 834/2007 or other organic product standards.
• Biodegradable: these are organic or chemical products or compounds which if dispersed into the environment, are easily decomposed, by the action of bacteria or other microorganisms, into less polluting forms.
• Biodegradation: this is the gradual process of transformation of complex organic molecules into simpler constituents, by the action of microorganisms, to finally bring them back to their inorganic state. Mother Science Guidelines apply to the following products: • IMAGEA ESSENTIAL SHAMPOO • IMAGEA ESSENTIAL HAIR BALM • IMAGEA ABSOLUTE SHAMPOO • IMAGEA ABSOLUTE MASK • IMAGEA PHYTOGOMMAGE • IMAGEA PHYTOELISIR • IMAGEA PHYTOGUARD • IMAGEA TISSUE FACE MASK • IMAGEA COLOR IN GEL • IMAGEA PURE RESIN • IMAGEA FUSION OIL BLEND • IMAGEA SUPREME SHINE
6
3.Objectives These guidelines’ primary objective is to follow these principles: • Unite the advantages of being natural to the performance of professional products; • Prefer plant origin and plant derived raw materials; • Prefer the use of ingredients from organic agriculture, which guarantee respect for natural values; • Prefer processes that respect the environment (during the manufacturing process and at disposal); • Be restrictive while, at the same time, allowing originality of the formulas to ensure product innovation and diversity and to meet consumers’ needs; • Purchase raw materials from developing regions to favour life conditions of certain populations, through sustainability projects; • Actively contribute to sustainability projects to protect the environment in the developing areas of the planet.
4.The cosmetic product 4.1 Ingredients
The ingredients in Elgon Green cosmetic products must be as natural as possible depending on the product’s function. a) The following ingredients are permitted:
• All COSMOS, NATRUE, ECOCERT, ICEA certified raw materials • All plant origin raw materials
• Some synthetic raw materials, if these cannot be substituted by natural origin products • All biodegradable raw materials
• Some oxidation intermediates used for hair dying (Annex 2)
b) In haircare products, use of the following products is prohibited:
• Cocamide Dea: this is a non-ionic molecule. Chemically this is made by a reaction between fatty acids from coconut oils and diethanolamine. It is used as an emulsifier in cleansers and to increase viscosity. It may cause allergic reactions and can form nitrosamines. • Artificial colours used in cosmetic products: these are substances, which when mixed with other substances impart a colour to the product. Artificial colours have an exclusively decorative role and a manufacturing supply chain that is extremely costly and contaminating. We therefore decided to exclude them from our list of permitted ingredients. • Propellant gas: these are potentially irritant for users that
7
inhale them and they increase atmospheric pollution.
• Lanolin: this is a wax that accumulates on sheep’s wool after being secreted by the animal’s sebaceous glands. Its functions are mainly to protect the sheep from foul weather and dehydration. It is an animal derived product and is therefore excluded from these specifications.
• Plastic microbeads: these are used as exfoliants in scrub products. They must be replaced by biodegradable alternatives. See detailed explanation in Section 5.1.
• Parabens: these are a class of preservative used in cosmetics, food products and medicines. They protect products from contamination by bacteria, mould and fungi, which might otherwise alter them, putting the safety of consumers at risk. They are as safe as all the ingredients approved by the European Cosmetics Regulation Services. This was also recently confirmed by the European Union Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. To meet the demands of consumers we have chosen to exclude all parabens from our products, preferring to choose alternative molecules with no questionable activity.
• Petrolates: also called hydrocarbons or mineral oils, these are a class of chemical compounds derived from the refinement of petroleum. The most widely known is Vaseline or liquid paraffin. • Polyethylene glycol (PEG): this is a class of ethoxylate molecule, which is involved in a reaction with ethylene oxide, with the objective of making them more water-soluble. The problem with these molecules is that they contain traces of 1,4 dioxane (as a residue of the reaction) which may be toxic in high concentrations.
• Silicones: these are semi-organic polymers that are made from silica. They contain several functional organic groups bound to silica atoms. Depending on the length of the siloxane chains, its ramifications and its functional groups, numerous materials with the most varied characteristics may be obtained. In cosmetics and particularly in haircare products these are used because of their filming properties. They make hair shiny and easier to comb out. These are excluded from the permitted ingredients in these specifications since they are not biodegradable. • SLS/SLES: these surfactants are used in many cosmetics because of their detergent and emulsifying properties. If they are not buffered by gentler surfactants, they might become very aggressive toward the scalp.
• Thiazolinones: these are preservatives. They are trations that are safe for individuals as set out Cosmetics Regulation Services. These substances sensitizing and allergenic. Therefore, they have by these specifications.
used in concenby the European are potentially been prohibited
c) In haircoloring, use of the following products is prohibited:
• Ammonia: alkaline agent, used in haircolor products, which has
8
the property of making the single hair fibres swell, by slightly lifting up the scales. This enables better penetration by the dye. It may cause sensitising phenomena. Furthermore, it is extremely volatile and therefore it may be harmful, especially for the hairstylist.
• Parabens: SEE SECTION 4.1.b
• p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) this is a hair dye, used in permanent haircolor because of its particular dying effectiveness for every shade, especially darker hues. Its presence in a product must be noted on the label. This substance is regulated by European legislation. It has been shown that the approved percentage used is not harmful, except for those who might be sensitive to it. To protect those users, we decided not to include it in our list of approved ingredients. • Fragrance: During every Haircolor service, the scalp is put under stress. Under these conditions, even the gentlest fragrance can be bothersome. We therefore decided not to include any perfume.
• Resorcin: also known as resorcinol, is used in haircolor. It is mainly obtained naturally through processing and the later distillation of tropical wood pulp, or the processing of plants such as Ferula gummosa, from which an exudate is drawn for soda refinement with certain resins. Though considered safe in oxidation haircolor in concentrations below 1.25% by the SCCS, we decided not to use it as it could affect sensitive subjects.
4.2 Packaging
The sustainability of our packaging (meaning primary and secondary packaging) and its compatibility with our objectives concerning environmental protection and social responsibility is an issue we take very seriously. Therefore, we decided that IMAGEA packaging will be recyclable. In addition, we chose to optimize the quantity of materials used to avoid waste and reduce environmental impact to a minimum. Our constantly seeking alternatives has enabled us to reconcile this desire with strong, functional packaging of excellent quality.
4.2.a the following materials are permitted:
• Aluminium, which is 100% recyclable for an infinite number of times. We use it in the tubes of dye, this way we protect our products from oxidation and we protect the environment at the same time.
• Cardboard, which makes up most of our products’ secondary packaging as well as shipping containers. Secondary packaging is necessary only for the tubes of IMAGEA haircolor and for the tube of IMAGEA PHYTOGOMMAGE. It is not used in any of the other products. Where necessary we have chosen to use FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) paper. The FSC® trademark identifies products containing wood or wood products that originated in forests managed responsibly according to strict environmental, social and economic standards.
9
• Natural straw plastic is a material obtained in part from renewable raw materials. In fact, it contains polyethylene derived from straw waste and polypropylene. Use of this straw waste helps to reduce environmental pollution. About 45% of the total is derived from the straw waste. We use this material in the haircolor mixing bowls and brushes and in the combs.
• Bio-Based Polyethylene (PE): this material is obtained from sugar cane, an easily renewable raw material. The advantage of using this type of plastic lies in its not being petroleum based. It also contributes to the reduction of CO2 emissions into the environment. All of this is achieved without losing the performance of the PE. Actually, these materials have the same mechanical and physical properties as classic PE. We use BIO-BASED PE in tubes of IMAGEA PHYTO GOMMAGE and IMAGEA ESSENTIAL CONDITIONER. Where present, even the product labels are made of sugar cane based PE. Moreover, the resin used has the Bonsucro certification (http:// www.bonsucro.com/.)
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET): We use PET to make the bottles. Unfortunately, there is as yet no totally Green alternative for this material, since one of its components (terephthalic acid) cannot be replaced by a non-petroleum based alternative. We decided to adopt a type of PET that is 100% recyclable, to respect the environment as much as possible. PET is also used in one of the layers of the 4000 ml bags we use to for our large formats of IMAGEA ABSOLUTE SHAMPOO and IMAGEA ESSENTIAL SHAMPOO. Using this package to refill the smaller 1000 ml and 250 ml bottles further reduces disposal of plastic containers and more waste. • PP (polypropylene) and PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol-modified): these are recyclable.
• Cotton: we have chosen to accompany IMAGEA products with their own cotton carry bags, which can be reused, so avoiding paper waste or or other disposable materials.
• Glass: it is the dipstick of IMAGEA FUSION OIL BLEND dropper. Glass is a 100% recyclable and infinite material. Furthermore, the raw material that is obtained has the same characteristics and properties as the virgin raw material. • Resin-urea: is a type of plastic, used within the IMAGEA FUSION OIL BLEND dropper, very resistant to oils.
• Nitrile rubber: it is the rubber of the dropper of IMAGEA FUSION OIL BLEND, we opted for a synthetic rubber because it is more resistant to oils.
4.2.b the following materials are prohibited: • PVC and chlorurate plastics.
• Wood: though recyclable, is useless for containing cosmetic haircare products. Its function is purely aesthetic.
10
5.Ethics and the environment 5.1 Respect of water
One of the reasons we are writing the Elgon Green Specifications is to protect the oceans, seas, lakes and rivers from pollution left by cosmetics, so we can help to reduce aquatic toxicity. Aquatic toxicity refers to the effects of chemical substances on organisms living in water. It is usually determined by testing the organisms representing the three trophic levels. These are plants, algae or phytoplankton, invertebrates and zooplankton (crustaceans such as Daphnia spp.) and vertebrates (fish).
When choosing raw materials for our certified products we also considered aquatic toxicity. This information is listed on the raw materials’ safety data sheets. Another way of protecting waterways is eliminating all synthetic exfoliants, made of plastic microspheres, which are found in many personal hygiene cosmetic products.
The 2016 Frontiers Report issued by the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), has placed microplastic pollution of the oceans and seas among the six most significant emerging threats to the environment. Many studies have confirmed that once these microplastics reach the sea they are eaten by the fauna, together with other accumulated toxic substances. There is also the risk that if fish and shellfish contaminated by microplastics and other pollutants end up on our tables, our entire food chain could be disrupted.
5.2 Respect for the atmosphere
The continuous and gradual impoverishment of the ozone layer in the stratosphere may easily be traced back to the presence of many chemical compounds in the atmosphere that attack the ozone. The propellant gases in cosmetic products can certainly compromise this situation. Therefore, we decided to exclude all aerosols from Elgon Green products.
5.3 Sustainability of palm oil
The oil of the fruit of the palm is a natural product, extracted by pressing the pulp of the oil palm fruit. The fruit is the size of a small plum and grows in large bunches that can weigh between 5 and 30 kg. Each palm fruit contains between 30-35% oil. This means that one oil palm can produce about 40 kg of oil each year. The growth of palm oil production volumes has, from one perspective, had a strong affect in terms of forest conversions, loss of biodiversity and harm to the rights of the communities in the principal countries where it is produced, which are located in the tropics (Malaysia and Indonesia). For this reason, in 2004, the Round Table on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) was established, with the objective of managing the ensuing environmental and social issues. The palm oil used in Elgon Green
11
products is only RSPO certified. RSPO certified palm oil guarantees these characteristics: • Oil with known origins, hence traceable; • Oil produced without converting new forests and so in respect of the conservation of high value ecosystems; • Oil produced with farming practices that respect the high-carbon-value forests; • Oil not produced in plantations converted by way of voluntary fires; • Oil produced by a supply chain, which protects the rights of local workers, populations and communities, in respect of the principle of free, prior and informed consent and which promotes the development of small independent producers.
5.4. Social commitment
Elgon Green’s commitment to social responsibility passes through different channels.
5.4.a Fair trade raw materials
Numerous vendors of raw materials run programmes, initiatives and projects aimed toward aiding economic development and socio-cultural promotion of the populations of developing countries in the Southern half of the world. They combine their socio-economic development objectives with the protection of environmental and cultural resources. This way a better future is ensured for women, children and entire villages, where the scarcity of accesses to clean water and other resources negatively influences the inhabitants’ life prospects. By bettering the agricultural production of the land, marketing their products is made much easier. Therefore, the producers of raw materials, to obtain the plant extracts useful for the production of cosmetics, involve small local farms, thus helping their growth. How does Elgon Green’s objective aid in this development? We have made sure that each IMAGEA product contains at least one raw material that originates from sustainable fair trade from different parts of the world.
5.4.b The Treedom Project
Elgon Green has decided to work with Treedom to make concrete progress in its environmental sustainability project. Treedom is the only website in the world that allows users to plant trees remotely and keep up with their growth. Since its foundation, in 2010 in Florence,Italy, Treedom has planted more than 280,000 trees in Africa, Latin America and Italy. All of the trees, which contribute toward producing environmental, social and economic benefits, are planted directly by local farmers.
12
We decided to work with Treedom to plant our trees in a small forest of 350 trees in Kenya, which is being implemented over time. Apart from creating environmental benefit, the trees will enable farmers to increase their yields and improve their lives.
5.5 Halal Certification
IMAGEA haircare products (ESSENTIAL SHAMPOO, ESSENTIAL HAIR BALM, ABSOLUTE SHAMPOO, ABSOLUTE MASK, PHYTOGOMMAGE, PHYTOELISIR, PHYTOGUARD) in all sizes and all IMAGEA COLOR IN GEL nuances have received Halal certification by by Halal Italia. Halal Italia is a voluntary Italian certification organization for Italian products that comply with Islamic law on foodstuffs, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals on what is and is not permissible (halal). Italian excellence is promoted through compliance with international halal standards as well as with European standards on food health and safety and animal wellbeing. This is a quality certification of the product and its manufacturing supply chain. Halal Italia verifies that its certified products contain no animal derivatives or other ingredients deemed impure, that there has been no contact with unclean products throughout the products’ entire manufacturing supply chain and that in case of any contamination the entire production cycle has been sanitised.
5.6 VEGAN-FRIENDLY PRODUCTS
All IMAGEA products are vegan-friendly. That is, they contain no animal derivatives. Many ingredients used in trichologic cosmetics, such as keratin and hyaluronic acid have animal origins. Scientific research in recent years has made astounding progress. There are now synthetic or plant-based alternatives that have the same function and effectiveness as ingredients with animal origins. We have spent much time studying our formulations and seeking raw materials to replace those of animal origins. For example, the hyaluronic acid in PHYTOGUARD is made up of a complex of plant-origin ingredients made functional through biotechnology. Nevertheless, we have chosen to not certify our products through Vegan certification entities. However, the veracity of what we claim can be confirmed by our Halal Certification, which, as a part of its standards, prohibits the use of animal derivatives.
13
ANNEX 1
LIST OF INGREDIENTS IN HAIRCARE AND TISSUE MASK PRODUCTS (in alphabetic order)
ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE POWDER: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is the juice that comes from cold pressing Aloe barbadensis (Aloe vera) leaves. Since the liquid form may be sensitive to light and heat, it may be freeze dried, or lyophilized, to become Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder. Aloe vera is rich in moisturizing polysaccharides (glucomannans) and anti-inflammatory substances. The sugars in aloe vera coat each hair with a protective film. CAS No: 85507-69-3 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Manuale del Cosmetologo [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 3, Natural, organic and natural origin cosmetics: ingredients and formulations. Guido Rovesti
AMMONIUM LAURYL SULFATE: this is a gentle anionic surfactant. Anionic
surfactants are responsible for the cleansing action of shampoos. They present a negative charge toward hydrophilic components, with strong detergent action and foaming capacity. They are the main components in shampoo making up the active cleansing agent. Ammonium lauryl sulfate is extremely gentle, making it suitable for all hair and scalp types. It is of natural origin being a palm oil derivative. The palm oil used for this ingredient is RSPO certified. CAS No: 2235-54-3 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Sulfate vs. Sulfate-free: Information to Make a Choice| July 3, 2013
| By: Shoaib Arif, Pilot Chemical Co. http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/surfactant/premium-sulfate-vs-sulfate-free-information-to-make-a-choice-214206751.html#sthash.BxfJ5JM4.dpuf
ASCORBYL PALMITATE: this is a Vitamin C derivative. It has a strong
anti-oxidant action when it comes into contact with tissues, aiding in the maintenance of their normal physiological state. Even though it does not exist in nature, being a derivative, it may be considered a natural origin molecule. It is also useful inside of cosmetic formulations because it contributes to preserving the ingredients from oxidation and becoming rancid. CAS No: 137-66-6 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: completely biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Manuale del Cosmetologo [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 3,
Natural, organic and natural origin cosmetics: ingredients and formulations. Guido Rovesti
14
BEHENAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE: this is an amine with a very long alkyl chain and a conditioning function. It coats the hair and improves combability. Unlike many other conditioners, it is highly biodegradable. CAS No: 60270-33-9 ORIGIN: plant/synthesis BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00566.x/full
Minguet, M., Subirats, N., Castán, P. and Sakai, T. (2010), Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine: unique behaviour in solution and in hair care formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32: 246–257. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00566.x
BENZOIC ACID: this is a carboxylic acid, available in nature. It may also be synthesised. Benzoic acid is found in a wide variety of fruits and berries, beer, wine, coffee and black tea. It is a preservative. Therefore, it enables the characteristics of a formulation to be preserved making it safe for the end user for the entire shelf-life of the product. Its use has been approved by several organic certifications (Ecocert, Soil Association, BDIH, ICEA/AIAB, COSMOS, NaTrue). ORIGIN: plant/synthesis BIODEGRADABILITY: rapidly biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: M Fevola, Profile of Benzoic Acid/Sodium Benzoate, Cosm & Toil 126(11)
776 - http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/preservatives/Profile-of-Benzoic-AcidSodium-Benzoatepremium-231446111.html#sthash.lZthE6MU.dpuf
BENZYL ALCOHOL: this is an organic aromatic compound with a slight aroma. It is found in nature in many plants, and in certain essential oils, such as violet and jasmine. It may be found as a component in some fragrances. It can also be used as a preservative. It has good antimicrobial action especially against gram-positive bacteria. It can also be used in eco-certifiable products. CAS No: 100-51-6 ORIGIN: plant/synthesis BIODEGRADABILITY: biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: A Relaunch with a Natural Touch, August 10, 2016 | Jennifer No-
voseletsky - http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/preservatives/A-Relaunch-with-a-Natural-Touch-389746182.html#sthash.n0RiNKtp.dpuf
BIS-(ETHYL PPG-3 BEHENATE) DIMONIUM METHOSULFATE: this is a latest generation conditioner, with excellent biodegradability. It improves combability and makes hair soft. CAS No:/ ORIGIN: synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/134/199290/Ter-
raquat-BD
15
CALOPHYLLUM INOPHYLLUM (CALOPHYLLUM INOPHYLLUM SHELL POWDER):
this is an exfoliant made from Tamanu nut shells, which are normally discarded. The shells are split, cleaned and processed until they form very regular micro spheres, which are ionized to keep their bacteriologic quality perfect. We have chosen this as a natural exfoliant, with total respect for nature. Chemical exfoliants, once used, cannot be solubilised in wastewater, therefore producing plastic pollution in the seas. CAS No: 100-51-6 ORIGIN: natural BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: http://www.medicinehunter.com/tamanu/
CAPRYLYL GLYCOL: this is a simple molecule that may be used as a moisturiser and humectant. Added to formulations it also has antibacterial properties, since its alkyl chain destabilizes and destroys the bacteria's cellular membrane Its antimicrobial properties has made caprylyl glycol highly appreciated among multifunctional cosmetic ingredients. CAS No: 1117-86-8 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Caprylyl Glycol/Phenethyl Alcohol Blend for Alternative Preservetion of Cosmetics – P.Ziosi, S. Manfredini, A. Vandini, S. Virtuani and M. Fraternali. Cosmetics&Toiletries magazine Vol.128, No 8/Augusto 2013
CAULERPA LENTILLIFERA EXTRACT: extract obtained from an alga that
grows in the Bohol Sea, in the Philippines and in general from south-east Asia. Because of its pearl-like shape it is known as vegetable caviar. It is consumed a lot in Japan for its nutritional properties, in fact it is a seaweed rich in trace elements and polysaccharides, this composition allows it to have hygroscopic properties, that is to capture and retain water. This helps the alga survive when it is taken away from its natural environment. It provides a moisturising and regenerating effect, leaving hair more elastic and vital. Hydration is essential to revitalize hair and make it elastic. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: not stated in the safety data sheet BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Proximate Composition, Total Phenolic Content, and Antioxidant Acti-
vity of Seagrape (Caulerpa lentillifera) - Van Tang Nguyen, Jinn-Pyng Ueng, and Guo-Jane Tsai
CETEARYL ALCOHOL: this is a fatty alcohol made entirely from plants. It is used to increase viscosity, consistency and stability. It is one of the safest and most used ingredients in many cosmetic creams. Part of the cetearyl alcohol that we use comes from sustainable commerce, which uses environmentally responsible processing that enables local
16
community support by the vendors who provide our raw materials. CAS No: 67762-27-0 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: quickly biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl
alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myrstyl Alcohol and beheneyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, Volume 7, Number 3, 1988, Mary Ann Liebert
CITRIC ACID: this substance is found in nature as it is produced by cells (human and plant cells) as an intermediate during certain cellular processes. It is used in food processing as an acidifier. It is often used as a buffer to stabilise the pH in cosmetics formulations. CAS No: 77-92-9 ORIGIN: plant/synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Final Report On the Safety Assessment of Citric Acid, Inorganic Citrate Salts, and Alkyl Citrate Esters as Used in Cosmetics - March 27, 2012
CITRULLUS LANATUS SEED OIL (CITRULLUS LANATUS (WATERMELON) SEED OIL): this is the oil from the seeds of the melon that originates
in the Kalahari Desert in southern Africa. The oil has moisturizing, regenerative and restructuring properties because of its high content of essential fatty acids (especially linoleic acid), which is not synthesised by our bodies. These fatty acids contribute to strengthening the integrity of cell walls and as a result improve the skin’s elasticity and beauty. CAS No: 90244-99-8 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Lazos, E. S. (1986) Nutritional, Fatty acid, and Oil Characteristics of Pumpkin and Melon Seeds. Journal of Food Science 51(5): 1382.
CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS LEAF EXTRACT (CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) LEAF EXTRACT): this is the extract of organically grown
sweet orange leaves. Rich in vitamin C, it has strong anti-oxidant and energising power. CAS No:/ ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: completely biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • (CITRUS DULCIS) BIBLIOGRAPHY: Prodotti di origine vegetale in medicina, alimentazione, erboriste-
ria e cosmetica. [Plant products in medicine, food, herbal medicines and cosmetics] Marco Silano, Vittorio Silano
CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS OIL (CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) PEEL OIL): is Sweet Orange essential oil. Essential oils are the
extracted essence of the plant's fragrance. The term essential indicates that the oil has the same fragrance as the plant. Essential oils are
17
generally extracted by distillation. We have added orange essential oil in our Essential product lines instead of perfume, giving them a natural aroma. CAS No: 8008-57-9 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: completely biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • (CITRUS DULCIS) BIBLIOGRAPHY: Natural vs. Essential Oil August 28, 2007 | By: Tony O’Lenick http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/fragrance/9430486.html#sthash.2fkvChXF.dpuf
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE: this amphoteric surfactant is added to detergents because of its numerous properties. It mitigates the action of primary surfactants, increases viscosity in formulas and improves the structure of foams, which become finer and creamiera. CAS No: 61789-40-0 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable (OECD) BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Betaine vs. Amphoteric February 27, 2008 | Contact Author | By:
Tony O’Lenick http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/chemistry/16025512.html#sthash.sHH1NoZR.dpuf - Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
COCAMIDOPROPYL HYDROXYSULTAINE: this amphoteric surfactant is added
to detergents because of its numerous properties. It mitigates the action of primary surfactants, increases viscosity in formulas and improves the structure of foams, which become finer and creamier. CAS No: 68139-30-0 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: completely biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
COCO-CAPRYLATE: this is a plant-derived ester, which makes an extre-
mely light emollient. Very gentle, it is used in skin care and haircare products. It spreads very easily and because of this characteristic, it leaves the skin silky and leaves hair conditioned. It is a plant based alternative to silicones. Indeed, it is made from 100% renewable resources. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: completely biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Are Silicones Safe and Sustainable? What are the Alternatives? Octo-
ber 7, 2014 | Contact Author | By: Arthur Georgalas, Georgalas Endeavors LLC, Warwick, NY www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/feelenhancer/Are-Silicones-Safe-and-Sustainable-What-are-the-Alternativespremium-278439561.html#sthash.P4kpTiL0.dpuf
18
COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE: is a plant oil, totally biodegradable and
eco-certifiable, non-irritating, non-sensitising. It is obtained from natural sources, in particular from coconut and palm oil. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • •
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
html
www.mypersonaltrainer.it/Cosmesi/Ingrediente/Coco_Caprilatecaprate.
COCO-GLUCOSIDE: this non-ionic surfactant belongs to the class of
alkyl polyglucosides. It is added to detergents because it has an excellent foaming capacity and it is extremely gentle to the skin. It reduces the aggressiveness of primary anionic surfactants. It has a plant origin and is highly biodegradable as it is made from renewable resources. CAS No: 110615-47-9 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chap-
ter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
COPAIFERA SPECIES RESIN OILS: Copaiba resin oil is a known natural oil used for years among the native populations of the Amazon, it is used for its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties for the skin and scalp, it also polishes the hair and it has an emollient effect. CAS No: 9000-12-8 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: not stated in the safety data sheet BIO-DICTIONARY: • • (COPAIFERA OFFICINALIS) BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://naturallivingfamily.com/copaiba-essential-oil-uses/ DECYL GLUCOSIDE: this non-ionic surfactant belongs to the class of
alkyl polyglucosides. It is one of the most used among the non-ionic surfactants, as it has some of the best foaming and detergent capacity. Furthermore, it is stable whether the pH is high or low. It is made through the condensation of decyl alcohol with glucose (a sugar). Decyl Glucoside is so highly dermo-compatible that it is often used in products made for sensitive skin. We have added it to our Phytogommage Detox to make this product also suitable for those with a very sensitive scalp. CAS No: 54549-25-6 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Decyl Glucoside, Michael J. Fevola. Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol 127,
No 8/August 2012
19
DICAPRYLYL ETHER: it is an emollient oil easy to apply. It is obtained from natural sources, in particular from coconut and palm oil. We put it inside the Fusion Oil Blend because it moisturises and softens without weighing hair down. CAS No: 629-82-3 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/701946/DICAPRYLYL_ETHER/
ERYTHRITOL: this is a sugar derivative, found naturally in fruit.
It moisturises both skin and hair. Like all sugars, it is a humectant. Therefore, it indirectly improves the stability of the formula because it sequesters water and reduces the possibility of the growth of microorganisms. CAS No: 7541-59-5 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: quickly biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Cooking chemistry and the formulator: Sugar and Grains, by Eric S. Abrutyn. Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol 124, No 8/ Agosto 2009
ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN: this is used as a preservative in cosmetics
although not classified as such. Combined with other preservatives, it enhances their effect and spectrum of activity. It is also an emollient and mildly moisturizing. CAS No: 70445-33-9 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: potentially biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chap-
ter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
GLYCERINE: Glycerine (or glycerol) is a moisturizing agent found in
nature. Since it is difficult to find in its naturally free form it is obtained during the saponification process of triglyceride oils. Glycerine is one of the most common ingredients used in making cosmetics. It is strongly hygroscopic, meaning it can easily absorb water and a moisturizing agent. It moisturises both skin and hair. CAS No: 56-81-5 ORIGIN: plant/synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: M Fevola, Profile of Glycerin, Cosm & Toil 126(8) 548 (2011) http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/moisturizer/premium-Profile-of-Glycerin-215998441.html#sthash.n34RrtRh.dpuf
GLYCERYL LAURATE: this is a non-ionic surfactant, with low molecular
weight, which is derived from glycerine and lauric acid. It is used as an emulsifier, emollient, stabiliser and as an emulsion consistency
20
factor. It may be found in our formulations together with phenoxyethanol. Actually, Glyceryl Laurate presents good antimicrobial action, with good activity against gram positive bacteria, fungi and yeasts. Therefore, it acts as a booster to a preservative system, thus enabling the use of less preservative. CAS No: 27215-38-4 ORIGIN: plant/synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
GLYCERYL OLEATE: this is an effective co-emulsifier and emulsion
stabiliser, made from vegetable oil. It is found in most of our detergents, blended with coco-glucoside. It is highly tolerable to different skin types and it is capable of slowing down trans-epidermic water loss by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface. CAS No: 25496-72-4 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: R&D: Resources and Development of Eco-friendly Products, August 18,
2015 | By: Lisa Doyle http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/networking/news/R-and-D-Resources-and-Development-of-Eco-friendly-Products-322163202.html#sthash.3l2GeqsV.dpuf
GLYCERYL STEARATE: this raw material is used as an emulsifier, emollient, stabiliser and as an emulsion consistency factor. When used in cosmetics, it helps to reduce the evaporation of water, stabilising the product. At a level of cosmetics, it is an emollient and helps to reduce the evaporation of water from the skin. The glyceryl stearate that we use comes from sustainable commerce, which uses environmentally responsible processing that enables local community support by the vendors who provide our raw materials. CAS No: 31566-31-1 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE: this is a polysaccharide
derivative obtained from the sprouts of Guar Gum (Cyamopsis tetragonoloba). Why change a natural polymer? To improve its conditioning capacity and therefore make hair more combable without giving up on natural raw materials. In addition, this is one of the most widely used cationic polymers in the personal care industry, because of the exceptional body it gives hair. CAS No: 65497-29-2 ORIGIN: plant
21
BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride| March 22, 2013 | Michael J.
Fevola, PhD, Johnson & Johnson - http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/ function/feelenhancer/premium-Guar-Hydroxypropyltrimonium-Chloride-199604791.html#sthash.Lgcu6NUX.dpuf
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL): is sunflower seed oil. It is extracted by squeezing or by
extraction from the seeds of the sunflower plant. It is rich in fatty acids, especially linoleic and oleic. It is added to the formulations of body creams and lotions and hair products for its emollient properties. CAS No: 8001-21-6 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: not stated in the safety data sheet BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.naturalover.com/helianthus-annuus-seed-oil-nei-cosmetici/
HYDROLYZED ADANSONIA DIGITATA SEED EXTRACT: this is a Baobab
extract, a plant known as the tree of life. This ingredient, which characterizes IMAGEA PHYTOGUARD, has a lot of beneficial properties for hair: it repairs damage, protects from environmental pollutants and UV rays, moisturizes and nourishes the hair, decreases frizz, leaves the hair soft and conditioned. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Anti-Aging Hair Care through the Legendary Power of the Baobab, Sep-
tember 17, 2014 | By: Elzbieta Kasprzyk; Dmitri Ptchelintsev, PhD; and Rebecca Morton, TRI-K Industries - http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/moisturizer/Anti-Aging-Hair-Care-through-the-Legendary-Power-of-the-Baobab--275434261. html
HYDROLYZED BARLEY PROTEIN: these proteins create a non-occlusive film that aids in protecting the scalp and hair and improves the level of hydration. Many studies have shown that hydrolyzed barley protein is a natural anti-irritant. This ingredient is COSMOS/ECOCERT certified. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Cooking Chemistry and the Formulator: Sugar and Grains | July 17, 2013 | Contact Author | By: Eric Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc. http:// www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/skincare/premium-cooking-chemistry-and-the-formulator-sugar-and-grains-215899701.html#sthash.xfGzPQny.dpuf
HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID: this is a hyaluronic acid derivative found in IMAGEA PHYTOGUARD, which is obtained through biotechnology and is therefore not of animal origins. Its several functions include moisturising, increasing hair volume, lessening any frizzy effect and
22
protecting hair from pollution while making it soft and shiny. CAS No: / ORIGIN: Plant/biotechnology BIODEGRADABILITY: not stated in the safety data sheet BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/methodsprocesses/In-
gredients-Leave-Hair-Irresistible--Skin-Revived-425536394.html
HYDROLYZED QUINOA: this is a protein derived from Quinoa. Like all
hydrolyzed proteins, it has filmogenic properties and increases water retention. By penetrating into the hair shaft, it repairs damage, makes hair glossier and keeps haircolor from fading. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • (CHENOPODIUM QUINOA) BIBLIOGRAPHY: Hydrolyzed Quinoa for Hair Repair and Gloss | November 12, 2013 |
By: Elzbieta Kasprzyk and Lauren DelDotto | Cosmetics&Toiletries http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/haircare/231615271.html
HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE: is a polymer of 100% natural origin, derived
from cellulose. Cellulose is one of the most important polysaccharides and consists of numerous glucose molecules. It is used as a gelling and viscosifying agent in cosmetic formulations. CAS No: 9004-62-0 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.ashland.com/industries/energy/oil-and-gas/natrosol-hy-
droxyethylcellulose
HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE: this naturally derived polymer
is a sugar (starch) used in cosmetic products because it acts as a surfactant and emulsifier. It is very gentle on the hair leaving it soft and silky. This extremely versatile ingredient stabilizes emulsions and increases viscosity. CAS No: 53124-00-8 ORIGIN: plant/synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Safety Assessment of Polysaccharide Gums as Used in Cosmetics
ISONONYL ISONONANOATE: it is a light coloured liquid. It is easy to
apply, very dry to the touch and easily absorbed. It has a good emollient power, improves skin and hair elasticity, leaving a sensation of softness and lightness after application. CAS No: 59219-71-5 / 42131-25-9 ORIGIN: synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable
23
BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.mypersonaltrainer.it/Cosmesi/Ingrediente/Isononyl_Iso-
nonanoate.html
LACTIC ACID: this natural organic acid belongs to the category of
alpha hydroxy acids. It is used in skin care products because it aids in cutaneous desquamation. In hair cosmetics, it regulates the formula’s pH and has a conditioning effect. CAS No: 50-21-5 ORIGINE: naturally/synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: quickly biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: SMITH, W.P. (1996), Comparative effectiveness of α-hydroxy
acids on skin properties. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 18: 75–83. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1996.tb00137.x
LAURYL GLUCOSIDE: this non-ionic surfactant with excellent foaming
capacity is extremely gentle to the skin. It reduces the aggressiveness of primary surfactants. It is obtained from natural sources. In shampoos, it helps to make hair soft and improves combability. The success of this raw material is due to its plant origins and because it is highly biodegradable as it is made from renewable resources. CAS No: 110615-47-9 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
LECITHIN: this is a molecule formed by phosphoric acid, choline, fatty
acids, glycerol, glycolipids, triglycerides and phospholipids making up its principal components. It is used as a carrier so that liposoluble active ingredients can reach their targets or as an emulsifier. It also has nutrient and moisturizing properties. CAS No: 8002-43-5 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
LIMONENE: this is a naturally occurring alkene. Limonene is a fragrant
molecule, getting its name from the lemon, and the lemon rind. Like other citrus fruit, the lemon rind contains great quantities of this chemical compound, which is for the most part responsible for its characteristic fragrance. In cosmetics, it is used in perfumes and essential oils and it is considered an allergen. CAS No: 5989-27-5 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: not immediately biodegradable
24
BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Organic Chemistry With molecular models - Marc Loudon
OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OIL (OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL): this is the oil obtained from the fruit of the Olive. Its composition is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. Like all vegetable oils, it gives smoothness and is emollient. The unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil is one of the richest substances in nutrients and antioxidants. CAS No: 8001-25-0 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition,
Chapter 10 Decorative Cosmetics: ingredients, products and technologies. http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/olea-europaea-olive-fruit-oil
OLEIC/LINOLEIC/LINOLENIC POLYGLYCERIDES: these are naturally occurring molecules, made using oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid. They are used in the cosmetics industry as moisturizers, emollients and emulsifiers. They are excellent substitutes for lanolin and Vaseline. CAS No: 368869-31-2 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • (OLEIC/LINOLEIC TRIGLYCERIDE) BIBLIOGRAPHY: www.avgpersonalcare.it/Attivo-Per-Categoria.aspx?ActiveID=77&CurrentID=68&SupercurrentID=68
OLUS OIL: this is made up of a blend of plant-derived triglycerides. It is an odourless oil with a yellow colour. Being an emollient, it may be used in many types of cosmetic products, in particular, especially hand and body creams, massage oils and anti-ageing emulsions. CAS No: 68956-68-3 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28079016 ORBIGNYA OLEIFERA SEED OIL: is Babassu oil, obtained from the seeds
that fall from the tree. Local populations use it for its emollient properties. It is also used on hair to improve shine and to promote hydration; it penetrates the hair for an even deeper action. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: not stated in the safety data sheet BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/orbignya-oleifera-seed-oil-and-babassu-acid
25
ORYZA SATIVA EXTRACT: this is a derivative of Violet Rice grown
in South-East Asia (Laos and Thailand). It is obtained through the hot maceration of Oryza Sativa seeds. It is used in haircare products because of its nutrient, moisturizing and revitalising properties. It has strong antioxidant action. The Oryza Sativa extract used in the IMAGEA line comes from sustainable commerce, which ensures that biodiversity is maintained. CAS No: 90106-37-9 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: completely biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Antioxidant Activity of Anthocyanin Extract from Purple Black Rice -Haruyo Ichikawa, Takashi Ichiyanagi, Bing Xu, Yoichi Yoshii, Masaharu Nakajima, and Tetsuya Konishi - Journal of Medicinal Food. December 2001, Vol. 4, No. 4: 211-218
PARFUM: this is the name given to all perfumes whether natural or synthetic. PHENOXYETHANOL: this is one of the most widely used preservatives.
In recent years, its use has increased dramatically. It is effective against all microorganisms. CAS No: 122-99-6 ORIGIN: synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition,
Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURATE/SEBACATE: this is a naturally derived solubilizer made by the esterification of polyglycerol molecules and fatty acids, derived from 100% natural raw materials, approved by Ecocert. It enables lipophilic raw materials to be solubilized in aqueous solutions. We use it to solubilize perfume. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • (POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURATE) BIBLIOGRAPHY: Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosme-
tics - http://www.cirsafety.org/sites/default/files/polyglyceryl%20fatty%20acid.pdf
POLYGLYCERYL-6 CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE: this is a naturally derived
solubilizer made by the esterification of polyglycerol molecules and fatty acids, derived from 100% natural raw materials, approved by Ecocert. It enables lipophilic raw materials to be solubilized in aqueous solutions. We use it to solubilize perfume. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • (POLYGLYCERYL-2 CAPRYLATE e POLYGLYCERYL-2 CAPRATE)
26
BIBLIOGRAPHY: Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics - http://www.cirsafety.org/sites/default/files/polyglyceryl%20fatty%20acid.pdf
POLYGLYCERYL-6 PALMITATE/SUCCINATE: polymer derived from natural
raw materials, approved by Ecocert. It has a high HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) making it an excellent emulsifier, while it also increases the viscosity of the system. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosme-
tics - http://www.cirsafety.org/sites/default/files/polyglyceryl%20fatty%20acid.pdf
POTASSIUM SORBATE: this is the potassium salt of sorbic acid. It is
an anti-fungal preservative, approved for use by several certification bodies (Ecocert, Soil Association, BDIH, ICEA, COSMOS, NaTrue). CAS No: 24634-61-5 ORIGIN: plant/synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: quickly biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
PUNICA GRANATUM FRUIT EXTRACT: this is pomegranate extract. It has high levels of Vitamin C and antioxidants, which help prevent damage to the hair and scalp. Many studies have also shown that the high content of polyphenols and tannins in pomegranate, make this a powerful anti-fading active ingredient. CAS No: 84961-57-9 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: quickly biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: J Photochem Photobiol B. 2013 Mar 5;120:142-7. Efficacy of Punica granatum L. hydroalcoholic extract on properties of dyed hair exposed to UVA radiation. Dario MF1, Pahl R, de Castro JR, de Lima FS, Kaneko TM, Pinto CA, Baby AR, Velasco MV. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S101113441300002X
RICINOLEAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE: is a conditioner of vegetable origin, obtained from castor oil. It is used because it improves the combability of dry and wet hair, decreases the antistatic effect and fights frizzy hair. It has been included in Imagea Supreme Shine because it polishes the hair in a surprising way even though it is of vegetable and ecologically compatible origin. CAS No: 20457-75-4 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: http://www.cirsafety.org/sites/default/files/amidoa022012SLR_forpo-
sting.pdf
27
SCLEROCARYA BIRREA SEED OIL: is Babassu oil, obtained from the seeds that fall from the tree. Local populations use it for its emollient properties. It is also used on hair to improve shine and to promote hydration; it penetrates the hair for an even deeper action. CAS No:/ ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: not stated in the safety data sheet BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/725979/SCLEROCARYA_BIRREA_ SEED_OIL/
SCHINZIOPHYTON RAUTANENII KERNEL OIL: this is an oil derived from
the fruit of the Mongongo, a tree that grows in Zambia. It is rich in Omega 6, and is an excellent source of moisture for the skin and hair. In addition, it contains a natural acid that reacts to UV radiation polymerization by forming a protective layer on the hair shaft. Because it contains vitamin E, it also has antioxidant properties. CAS No: 68956-68-3 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present
SHEA BUTTER ETHYL ESTERS: these are Shea Butter esters (Karitè). Karitè Butter is a potent emollient and moisturiser for the hair and scalp. It aids in repairing damage and increases the absorption of water in the hair and scalp. Some studies have shown that it acts as a UV filter. CAS No:/ ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Malachi Oluwaseyi Israel. Effects of Topical and Dietary Use of Shea
Butter on Animals. American Journal of Life Sciences. Vol. 2, No. 5, 2014, pp. 303307. doi: 10.11648/j.ajls.20140205.18 http://www.htsne.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Effects-of-Topical-and-Dietary-Useof-Shea-Butter-on-Animals.pdf
SHEA BUTTER AMIDOPROPYL BETAINE: this is a primary amphoteric
surfactant, with strong foaming capacity and it aids in creating good viscosity. The presence of the unsaponifiable part of the Shea butter makes this raw material very gentle. Karitè Butter is a potent emollient and moisturiser for the hair and scalp. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Malachi Oluwaseyi Israel. Effects of Topical and Dietary Use of Shea
Butter on Animals. American Journal of Life Sciences. Vol. 2, No. 5, 2014, pp. 303307. doi: 10.11648/j.ajls.20140205.18 http://www.htsne.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Effects-of-Topical-and-Dietary-Useof-Shea-Butter-on-Animals.pdf
28
SODIUM BENZOATE: this is a preservative. It is the sodium salt of benzoic acid. It is found naturally in many foods such as blueberries, apricots, mushrooms and cinnamon. It may also be synthesised starting with benzoic acid. It is also a widely used food preservative. Its use has been approved by several organic certifications (Ecocert, Soil Association, BDIH, ICEA/AIAB, COSMOS, NaTrue). CAS No: 532-32-1 ORIGIN: plant/synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: quickly biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-benzoate,
M Fevola, Profile of Benzoic Acid/Sodium Benzoate, Cosm & Toil 126(11) 776 - http:// www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/preservatives/Profile-of-Benzoic-AcidSodium-Benzoatepremium-231446111.html#sthash.lZthE6MU.dpuf
SODIUM CETEARYL SULFATE: this is a multifunctional ingredient of
plant origin. It has the properties of a cleansing agent with a gentle foaming capacity. It is a powerful emulsion stabiliser. CAS No:59186-41-3 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Final report on the safety assessment of sodium cetearyl sulfate and related alkyl sulfates as used in cosmetics.
SODIUM CHLORIDE: this is classic table salt. It is used to increase
viscosity in cleansers. It is an electrolyte causing an enlargement of the micelles in a formula. This way the micelles create more resistance, creating an increase in viscosity. CAS No: 7647-14-5 ORIGIN: inorganic BIODEGRADABILITY: not calculable because it is a natural inorganic compound BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition,
Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
SODIUM CITRATE: this is the sodium salt of citric acid. It is often used in buffer solutions to regulate acidity and stabilize pH. CAS No: 68-04-2 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: quickly biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium_citrate#section=Industry-Uses
SODIUM HYALURONATE: this indicates the hyaluronic acid in our tissue
mask, which is certified 100% natural (not animal origin). It is actually synthesized from particular microorganisms found in nature through fermentation beginning with a source of sugars. It has a molecular weight of about 1-1.6 million Da (daltons) (very near the mass of the
29
hyaluronic acid produced naturally in the derma) and this enables it to have the filler and tensor-lift effect. CAS No: 9067-32-7 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Anti-wrinkle creams with hyaluronic acid: how effective are they? -
Poetschke J1, Schwaiger H1, Steckmeier S1, Ruzicka T1, Gauglitz GG2. 2016 May 25;158 Suppl 4:1-6. doi: 10.1007/s15006-016-8302-1. Epub 2016 May 25.
SODIUM LACTATE: this is the sodium salt of lactic acid. It is produced
by fermentation of a sugar source, such as corn. Because it is a potent skin moisturizer that also reduces irritation, Sodium Lactate is one of the ingredients in Natural Moisturizing Factor. CAS No: 72-17-3 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • (LACTIC ACID) BIBLIOGRAPHY http://cellulac.co.uk/en/sodium-lactate/
SODIUM LAURYL GLUCOSE CARBOXYLATE: this is an anionic surfactant
made from coco and corn glucosides. It is also used as a natural substitute for sodium laureth sulfate. It is used as a surfactant in cosmetics and personal care products. It has good foaming capacity and excellent dermal compatibility. CAS No: / ORIGIN: plant/synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-lauryl-glucose-car-
boxylate
SODIUM POLYITACONATE: is a polymer of 100% natural origin, obtained
from corn and modified by biotechnology. It is used in place of synthetic polymers due to its film-forming and fixing activities, it gives a natural look to the hair and a hold comparable to the classic PVP.. CAS No: 6099-89-8 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: not stated in the safety data sheet BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/haircare/Polymer-Naturally-Sticks-it-to-Stray-Hairs-or-Makes-More-391945941.html
SORBIC ACID: this is a natural preservative, whose use has increased in recent years. It is an effective antifungal agent. CAS No: 110-44-1 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • •
30
BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
SORBITOL: this is a sugar belonging to the family of polyols or sugar
alcohols. It is found in many kinds of fruit such as apples, pears and cherries. Sorbitol is used in cosmetics as a humectant to keep products from drying out as well as being a moisturising agent, used to prevent dry skin. CAS No: 50-70-4 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: not stated in the safety data sheet BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
STEARAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE:this is a conditioning agent often
used in shampoos and conditioners, because it improves combability. It is a derivative of palm oil, made from palms grown sustainably following the principles of the RSPO Mass Balance System. Compared to other conditioners, it has an excellent ecological profile. CAS No: 7651-02-7 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Minguet, M., Subirats, N., Castán, P. and Sakai, T. (2010), Behe-
namidopropyl Dimethylamine: unique behaviour in solution and in hair care formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32: 246–257. doi:10.1111/j.14682494.2009.00566.x http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00566.x/full
TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE: this belongs to the category of
chelating agents, that is, those molecules that capture metal ions that may be found in formulas as impurities from the raw materials or found in water. The uncontrolled presence of metal ions in a product may cause problems such as the formation of colour complexes, photodegradation, deactivation of preservation systems, and reduced foaming or reduced viscosity. CAS No: 51981-21-6 ORIGIN: synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: not stated in the safety data sheet BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: http://ecoantiage.blogspot.it/2016/01/tetrasodium-glutamate-diacetate.html
TOCOPHEROL: this is a type of vitamin E. It acts as an antioxidant,
protecting formulas from oxidation. It may also have an effect on an end target such as hair and scalp. It is a natural substance. CAS No: 54-28-4 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: completely biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • •
31
BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE: this belongs to the cate-
gory of chelating agents, that is, those molecules that capture metal ions that may be found in formulas as impurities from the raw materials or found in water. The uncontrolled presence of metal ions in a product may cause problems such as the formation of colour complexes, photodegradation, deactivation of preservation systems, reduction of foaming or reduced viscosity. CAS No: 20846-91-7 ORIGIN: synthetic BIODEGRADABILITY: easily biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: not present BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition,
Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
XANTHAN GUM: this naturally occurring polymer is a polysaccharide
similar to cellulose. It enables the rheological properties of the cosmetic product to be altered. It also stabilizes emulsions and is an excellent suspending agent. CAS No: 11138-66-2 ORIGIN: plant BIODEGRADABILITY: quickly biodegradable BIO-DICTIONARY: • • BIBLIOGRAPHY: Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition,
Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede.
32
ANNEX 2 INTRODUCTION
Is there a natural hair dye? There are plant origin pigments that may be used on hair, without however, a permanent effect. Elgon addresses the professional market. It is well known that to satisfy customers, highly effective haircolor must be produced. Plant-based dyes do not give hairstylists the ability to provide permanent haircolor or cover grey effectively. Therefore, we chose to add a range of oxidation haircolors in the Imagea line. By definition, these dyes are synthetic. It is only in this manner that we can guarantee the achievement of the results indicated above. Precisely because we cannot avoid using certain raw materials, we have worked very hard to make a permanent haircolor that gives the highest possible level of care to the end customer and the environment. Therefore, we have eliminated ammonia, parabens, p-Phenylenediamine, fragrance and resorcin from our products (as described in greater detail in section 4.1.c) The other ingredients were chosen to achieve formulas that remain stable over time, enabling the product to be applied in the best manner possible and to be easily rinsed out. We have enriched our Organic Quinoa and Organic Pomegranate extract formulas from sustainable trade because both have very distinct and proven anti-fading activity.
LIST OF INGREDIENTS IN IMAGEA HAIRCOLOR DYES
ARGININE (CAS No: 74-79-3): this is a basic amino acid. Its properties moisturize and condition hair and scalp. It improves the duration of the haircolor and the hair dying process performance. ASCORBIC ACID (CAS No: 50-81-7): this is vitamin C. It has antioxidant properties. BENZYL ALCOHOL (CAS No: 100-51-6): this is an organic aromatic compound with a slight aroma. It is found in nature in many plants, and in certain essential oils, such as violet and jasmine. It is found as a component in some fragrances. It can also be used as a preservative. It has good antimicrobial action especially against gram-positive bacteria. It can also be used in eco-certifiable products.
CETEARETH-50 (CAS No: 68439-49-6), LAURETH-3 (CAS No: 3055-93-4), LAURETH-10 (CAS No: 9002-92-0): these are ethoxylate emulsifiers. We use them because they are very stable, even at high pH levels such as in dyes. ETHANOLAMINE (CAS No:141-43-5): this is an alkalinizing agent, used in place of ammonia. Alkalinizers are fundamental for hair dying because they enable the opening of the cuticle and the penetration of the
33
pigments.
GLYCERINE (CAS No. 56-81-5): this moisturizing agent is found in nature. Since it is difficult to find in its naturally free form it is obtained during the saponification process of triglyceride oils. Glycerine is one of the most common ingredients used in making cosmetics. It is strongly hygroscopic, meaning it can easily absorb water and a moisturizing agent. It moisturises both skin and hair. HYDROLYZED QUINOA (CAS No. /): this is a protein derived from Quinoa. Like all hydrolyzed proteins, it has filmogenic properties and increases water retention. By penetrating into the hair shaft, it repairs damage, makes hair glossier and keeps the haircolor from fading.
OLEYL ALCOHOL (CAS No. 143-28-2): this emollient favours the penetration of the haircolor inside of the hair shaft since it is an excellent suspending agent for the pigments. This makes it an ideal ingredient in making our high performance formulas stable. PEG-2 COCAMINE ((CAS No. 61791-14-8): this non-ionic emulsifier is suitable for alkaline emulsions, such as hair dyes. PEG-200 HYDROGENATED GLYCERYL PALMATE (CAS No. /): this solubilizing agent improves viscosity and is also ideal for restoring lipid content, needed when applying haircolor, since it nourishes the scalp that is undergoing a chemical treatment.
PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE (CAS No. 66105-29-1): this solubilizing agent improves viscosity and is also ideal for restoring lipid content, needed when applying haircolor, since it nourishes the scalp that is undergoing a chemical treatment.
POLYQUATERNIUM-22 (CAS No. 53694-17-0): this is a conditioner. It improves combability of the hair making the distribution of the cream throughout the mass of hair much easier. POTASSIUM SORBATE (CAS No: 24634-61-5): this is a potassium salt of sorbic acid. It is an anti-fungal preservative, approved for use by several certification bodies (Ecocert, Soil Association, BDIH, ICEA, COSMOS, NaTrue). PROPYLENE GLYCOL (CAS No. 57-55-6): this is a wetting agent with good solvent action. It is considered an important vehicle for active ingredients. It provides a mild moisturizing action. It holds water in the formulations avoiding its evaporation and therefore the drying out of the emulsion.
PUNICA GRANATUM FRUIT EXTRACT (CAS No. 84961-57-9): this is pomegranate extract. It has high levels of Vitamin C and antioxidants, which help prevent damage to the hair and scalp. Many studies have also shown that the high content of polyphenols and tannins in pomegranate, make this a powerful anti-fading active ingredient. SODIUM BENZOATE (CAS No. 532-32-1): this is a preservative. It is the sodium salt of benzoic acid. It is found naturally in many foods such as blueberries, apricots, mushrooms and cinnamon. It may also be synthesised starting with benzoic acid. It is also a widely used food preservative Its use has been approved by several organic certifications
34
(Ecocert, Soil Association, BDIH, ICEA/AIAB, COSMOS, NaTrue).
SODIUM HYDROSULFITE (CAS No. 7775-14-6), SODIUM SULFITE (CAS No. 775783-7): these impede the oxidation of pigments. They are fundamental for our formulations because they ensure the integrity and function of the finished product. Replacing these ingredients with other natural origin components would be unthinkable, since the latter would never have the same effect.
SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (CAS No. 3088-31-1): this is an anionic surfactant. We decided to remove it from our cleansing agents because at high concentrations it is considered aggressive. In the IMAGEA Haircolor line it has been used in low concentrations (1.1 %) since its presence makes the dye self-releasing. This way we can be certain that dye residue will be removed completely from the hair and scalp
TETRASODIUM EDTA (CAS No. 64-02-8): this is a chelating agent very often used in cosmetics. It is a highly effective raw material that acts against any metal residues that might be in the dyes.
PIGMENTS
2-AMINO-6-CHLORO-4-NITROPHENOL (CAS No. 6538-09-4): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 2% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 4%. SCCP/0948/05 - Opinion on 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol BASIC YELLOW 87 (CAS No. 68259-00-7): the use of this oxidation colourant is permitted up to a 1.0% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This information may be found in the Regulation (EU) No. 1197/2013 Annex III/275, on cosmetic products. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 2%.
4-AMINO-m-CRESOL (CAS No. 2835-99-6): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 1.5% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 3%. 0898/05 - Opinion on 4-Amino-m-cresol 2-METHYLRESORCINOL (CAS No. 608-25-3): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 1.8% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 3.6%. SCCP/1002/06 - Opinion on 2-methylresorcinol 1-NAPHTHOL (CAS No. 90-15-3): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 2% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum
35
concentration permitted is 4%. SCCP/1123/07 - Opinion on 1-naphthol 2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL HCL (CAS No. 66422-95-5): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 2% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 4%. SCCS/1367/10 - Opinion on 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol dihydrochloride and sulfate 4-CHLORORESORCINOL (CAS No. 95-88-5): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 2.5% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 5%. 1224/09 - Opinion on 4-Chlororesorcinol 5-AMINO-6-CHLORO-o-CRESOL (CAS No. 84540-50-1): the use of this oxidation colourant is permitted up to a 0.5% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product on a free basis. This information may be found in the Regulation (EU) No. 1197/2013 Annex III/283, on cosmetic products. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 1%. m-AMINOPHENOL (CAS No. 591-27-5): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 1.2% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 2.4%. SCCP/0978/06 - Opinion on m- aminophenol 2-AMINO-4-HYDROXYETHYLAMINOANISOLE SULFATE (CAS No. 83763-48-8): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 1.5% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 3%. SCCS/1250/09 - Updated Opinion on 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate p-AMINOPHENOL (CAS No. 123-30-8): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 0.9% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 1.8%.
4-AMINO-2-HYDROXYTOLUENE (CAS No. 2835-95-2): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 1.5% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 3%. SCCP/1001/06 - Opinion on 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene PHENYL METHYL PYRAZOLONE (CAS No. 89-25-8): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant
36
safe up to a 0.25% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 0.5%. 1033/06 - Opinion on Phenyl methyl pyrazolone N,N-BIS(2-HYDROXYETHYL)-p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE SULFATE (CAS No. 54381-167): the SCCP (SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER PRODUCTS) has deemed the use of this oxidation colourant safe up to a 2.5% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 5%. 0991/06 - Opinion on N-Phenyl-p-phenylenediamine 1-HYDROXYETHYL-4,5-DIAMINO PYRAZOLE SULFATE (CAS No. 155601-30-2): the use of this oxidation colourant is permitted up to a 3.0% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product. This information may be found in the Regulation (EU) No. 1197/2013 Annex III/273, on cosmetic products. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 6%.
TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE SULFATE (CAS No. 6369-59-1): the use of this oxidation colourant is permitted up to a 4.0% concentration (dye mix and activator) in the final product on a free basis. This information may be found in the Regulation (EU) No. 344/2013 Annex III/9a, on cosmetic products. This means that in a mix of dye and activator at a 1:1 ratio the maximum concentration permitted is 8%. BIBLIOGRAPHY
A Relaunch with a Natural Touch, August 10, 2016 | Jennifer Novoseletsky M Fevola, Profile of Glycerin, Cosm & Toil 126(8) 548 (2011) Hydrolyzed Quinoa for Hair Repair and Gloss | November 12, 2013 | By: Elzbieta Kasprzyk and Lauren DelDotto | Cosmetics&Toiletries Il manuale del cosmetologo, [Cosmetologist’s Manual] II Edition, Chapter 1 Cosmetic Ingredients: chemical, physical and functional classes. Alverio Malpede M Fevola, Profile of Benzoic Acid/Sodium Benzoate, Cosm & Toil 126(11) 776
Some sustainability suggestions for green hairstylists SAVE ENERGY!
37
1. CHOOSE LOW CONSUMPTION ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES AND EQUIPMENT FOR YOUR SALON! Check the energy label and choose products in Class A, A+ or better (hair dryers, curling irons, small or large appliances, etc.). You can actually cut your power consumption in half, saving on your bill too! 2. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES, HAIR DRYERS AND EQUIPMENT TURNED ON WHEN NOT IN USE! This will also help you to reduce your power consumption, saving your money and helping the environment. 3. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS, when you are not in a room in your salon or if there is good natural light! install timers, motion sensors or presence detectors and photocells to automatically turn off lights (in the bathrooms for instance). Install a timer for night lighting your store. 4. USE LOW-CONSUMPTION LIGHT BULBS OR BETTER YET LED LAMPS! 1 LED lamp = 8 fluorescent lamps = 33 of the old incandescent bulbs. This is a fact. They might cost a little more but they last much longer, give off more light and use much less power.
SAVE WATER!
1. TURN OFF THE TAP WHILE SHAMPOOING! Turn the water on only when it is time to rinse! You can save more than half of your water usage! 2. WAIT FOR A FULL LOAD WHEN USING YOUR WASHING MACHINE! By being careful when washing capes, towels and the other fabric materials used in your salon, you will save water, power and money. 3. USE ECOLOGICAL DETERGENTS! When cleaning your store, you can do your part to reduce pollution and protect our waterways.
REDUCE WASTE AND RECYCLE WHENEVER POSSIBLE!
1. LIMIT YOUR USE OF DISPOSABLE PRODUCTS! Use reusable gloves, capes or smocks instead of disposable items. This way you reduce your waste production considerably. 2. USE ECONOMY SIZE PACKAGES OF CONSUMABLE PRODUCTS! This requires less packaging and can often cost less (for the same amount of product). Avoid buying smaller and single use packages. 3. PROPERLY ORGANIZE RECYCLING IN YOUR STORE! Before disposing packaging, separate the paper, cardboard, plastic, glass, aluminium, etc. Be eco-chic and urge your customers to separate their waste at home too! 4. NO PLASTIC BOTTLES FOR YOUR STAFF OR CUSTOMERS! Offer your staff and customers purified or spring water from a cooler. You will save money and make fewer empty plastic bottles. 5. USE CLOTH SACKS OR PAPER BAGS FOR PRODUCTS YOU SELL IN YOUR STORE! Have your store logo printed on cloth bags or paper sacks. It’s easy nowadays. That way your customers will keep giving you free advertising. If you use paper bags (even better if they are made of recycled paper), these are reusable until they are recycled.
38
MOTHER SCIENCE VALUES
S
ANIMAL-
PLAS
PRO
DO E
SE
I EN
AGGRES
PI
BILISER
S
DO E
LES
P
IL
S
TA
GM NTS E
NOT CON
I DIENTS EN E
PACKAGING
ALUMINIUM, FSC CARDBOARD, NATURAL STRAW PLASTIC, BIO-BASED PE, PET, RECYCLED PET, PP, COTTON
PVC, CHLORURATE PLASTICS, WOOD
LUTANT OL
P
RAW
O
OIL R S
LOW
IMAGEA FOREST IN KENYA BI
AD
E IN ITA
LY
M
O
DE
39
GRADA
VEGAN
FR
LE
LM
AEROSOL PRODUCTS, POLLUTANTS
P
R TRAD
E
B
AI
F
O
GRADA
PA
BI
LE
MATERIALS
DE
S
EASILY
PPD,PARABENS, RESORCINOL, AMMONIA, FRAGRANCE
A PARAB NZ SED INGR A B
ANIMAL- SE
S
F
E
T
S
IN TA
E DIE N
S
GR
D
N
NTHETIC SY
VE SI
NT-BASE LA B GRADA I
HAIRCOLOR FORMULATION
COCAMIDE DEA, SYNTHETIC DYES, PARABENS, PETROLATES,PEG, SILICONES, FORMALDEHYDE RELEASERS, SLS/SLES, THIAZOLINONES
E
BIO
ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY
NOT CON
A PARAB NZ
ILMENT AC
QUALITY
SED INGR BA
E R V AT I V
S
DE
ICR C M OB TI
ES
E
P
IL
LLANT G PE
IN TA
HAIRCARE FORMULATION
ICTIONA -D
IENTS ED
ES
C
DS EA
T
THE TI
ES AS
E DIE N
YN
PR
GR
I
N
D
B GRADA
RY
NT-BASE LA
S
F
E
BIO
DE
NO BIO
YES
ILMENT AC
I E N D LY
B
RAW MATERIALS WITH LOW BIODEGRADABILITY
8 050327 680746
01 EN 5268020001A
PIDIELLE S.p.A. Via Bergamina 7 / 20014 Nerviano (MI) Italy / Made in Italy Tel + 39 0331 580 166 / Fax + 39 0331 415 677 elgon@elgoncosmetic.it / www.elgoncosmetic.it AZIENDA CON SISTEMA DI GESTIONE QUALITÀ UNI EN ISO 9001 CERTIFICATO DA CERTIQUALITY