安瓶神級修護能量 aMp it up, sisley, issey Miyake

Vichy多重胜肽緊緻安瓶精華 Vichy Liftactiv Peptide-C Anti-Aging Ampoules Face Serum with Brightening Pure Vitamin C And Hyaluronic Acid, 10x1.5ml | $42.95

安瓶神級修護能量 Amp It Up

Curious about the latest trend in skincare's glass ampoules, but don’t know where to start? Here are five to try

Story | Leslie Yip

把精華濃縮在小玻璃瓶的安瓶精華熱潮突然冒起，不但一眾 美容bloggers紛紛在Instagram發文介紹，藝人亦對此趨之若鶩。 由亞洲美容教主牛爾老師研發的京城之霜美白安瓶，便邀得被封 為「台灣最美歐巴桑」的藝人陳美鳳任代言人。小小的安瓶精華竟 如此厲害？ Beauty potions in tiny single-dose glass vials seem to be popping up out of nowhere lately. Beauty bloggers show them off on Instagram, while celebrities like Taiwanese artiste Meifan Chen, who is billed as “Taiwan’s hottest ‘auntie’”, swears by the Bright Repair Concentrate developed by beauty guru Robin Niu Er. They certainly look different from the usual bottles and jars, but are they worth the hype?

一些皮膚專家，包括Vichy國際科研總監兼藥劑學博士 Dr.Marion Nielsen表示，這種濃縮小瓶有多重好處：「密封式 以及防曬的包裝能抵禦紫外光、熱力及氧化，從而保護活性成 份。因此產品配方毋須加入防腐劑之餘，更可把活性成份的濃 度提升，一開瓶即時塗抹，達至最新鮮的高濃度修護能量。」

高濃度的活性成份加上精確的一次性份量，令安瓶成為 急救護膚療程的最佳之選。妳可以針對肌膚的問題選擇合適 的安瓶療程，療程一般為期一星期至一個月。由Dr. Yannis Alexandrides創立的護膚品牌111Skin最近推出一星期的療程 專門針對五大皮膚問題如暗啞及缺水。達至最佳效果的秘訣 是什麼？Beautymark Solutions的宣教總監Machael Varicchio 說：「產品一開瓶便要立即使用，因為小瓶的設計是避免醫藥 用配方暴露於氧氣之中。」

大家亦可把安瓶加入到日常的皮膚護理程序。三度榮獲 德國最佳美容及化妝品大獎的Jean D’Arcel，其加拿大副總裁 Peggy Fu表示，很多顧客為了在聖誕節以最佳一面示人，會 在很早之前便購入安瓶，然後把安瓶加入平日的護膚程序，每 星期使用一次或兩次，而非在聖誕前才進行急救。有興趣把日 常家居護膚提升至另一層次的朋友，不妨考慮該品牌環保且可 持續的Hydratante Intense Moisture安瓶療程。

According to some skincare experts, they are. Dr. Marion Nielsen, Vichy’s international scientific director and doctor in pharmacy, says this particular format has multiple advantages.

“Their hermetic and photo-protective pack preserves the actives against UV, heat and oxidation,” she says. “This allows our labs to create minimalist formula without preservatives. This conditioning also gives the possibility to integrate actives into high concentrations and to deliver all their power when applying, just after opening.”

The possibility of offering higher concentration of active ingredients and precise dosage makes ampoules a good format for intensive booster treatments. These programs allow you to choose a specific ampoule to address your skin concerns at a particular moment, and could range from a week to a month. 111Skin by Dr. Yannis Alexandrides recently launched five targeted one-week systems to address specific concerns, such as clarity and hydration—the secret to reaping maximum benefit.

“Use it immediately upon opening,” says Machael Varicchio, education director at Beautymark Solutions. “The reason for the glass vials is to protect the clinical-grade formulations from exposure to oxygen.”

Ampoules can also be incorporated into your regular home-care regime. Peggy Fu, Canadian vice-president of Jean D’Arcel, a three-time winner of Germany’s Best Facial Care and Cosmetics award, says many customers stock up on ampoules for their pre-Christmas advent calendar.

However, instead of using one a day leading up to Christmas, they use one or two ampoules each week throughout the year as regular treats for their skin. Those looking to level up their home-care regime can also check out the clean and sustainable Hydratante Intense Moisture.

Dr. Barbara Sturm晚間安瓶 Dr. Barbara Sturm Night Ampoules, 7x2ml | US$150

京城之霜超激光束美白安瓶 Jing Cheng Super Diamond Bright Repairing Concentrate, 14x1.5ml | $109 Jean d’Arcel保濕極致安瓶 Jean d’Arcel Hydratante Intense Moisture, 7x2ml | $74

111 Skin提亮煥白安瓶精華 111 Skin The Radiance Concentrate, 7x2ml | $240

滋潤黑玫瑰 SiSley’S Black RoSe

Story | Leslie Yip

黑玫瑰的珍貴，在於它的花期只在5月及6月，在玫瑰盛 放之時必須以人手採摘，而且每年就僅有一次機會。

原本是深紅色的黑玫瑰由於色澤太深，讓人錯以為是黑 色。花形圓潤飽滿，每當光線投射到花瓣時，呈現如絲絨般 的質感，說的就是由法國東南部House of Meilland玫瑰園繁 殖的巴卡拉黑玫瑰，玫瑰園至今已是第六代經營。

這種黑玫瑰亦是Sisley經典護膚系列中的皇牌成份。

真正的黑色素在玫瑰的基因中並不存在，但玫瑰繁殖人 員卻能令無變為有。他們利用技術增加花瓣的色素，從而成 功繁殖出巴卡拉黑玫瑰。巴卡拉黑玫瑰於2000年首度公開亮 相，是世界上色澤最深的玫瑰品種之一。 The ingredient story is extremely unique as the Black Rose only blooms between May and June and must be plucked by hand once a year when the roses are open and most fragrant.

The garnet colour is so deep, it gives the illusion that it is black. The flower form is full and round, and when the petals catch the light, they seem like velvet. This is the Black Baccara rose, created by the House of Meilland, sixthgeneration rose breeders based in southeastern France.

This is also the black rose behind Sisley’s iconic skincare line.

Real black does not exist in roses because they lack the gene for it, but that doesn’t stop rose breeders from trying to create one. The exotic Black Baccara is obtained by increasing the dose of colour pigments in the petals. First presented to the public in the 2000s, it is one of the darkest roses in existence.

Black Rose Cream Mask, 60ml | $210

Black Rose Beautifying Emulsion, 200 ml | $225

Black Rose Skin Infusion Cream, 50 ml | $260 Black Rose Eye Contour Fluid, 14 ml | $195

Black Rose Precious Face Oil, 25 ml | $310

研究發現這款頂級玫瑰花擁用卓越的護膚功效，促使 Sisley研製成黑玫瑰面膜。用家表示，面膜的質地不但絲滑 潤密，用後皮膚更即時恢復活力，肌膚感覺清新而且充滿光 澤，產品因而全球熱賣。

Sisley的科研總監José Ginestar解釋：「黑玫瑰含豐富類 胡蘿蔔素，能有效抵禦自由基及有助肌膚吸收營養，令皮膚 滋潤幼滑，」她更表示：「每朵玫瑰的40片花瓣含豐富活性分 子，為了更完整地保存其功能，每年5月及6月首次開花時會 以人手小心翼翼地採摘。」

玫瑰花精油萃取深入皮膚抵禦自由基，而水漾萃取則好 像美顏玉液撫平及柔滑肌膚。除了最先面世的面膜外，整個 系列選有面部精華油、水凝霜、亮眼水凝精露和身體乳霜。

After studying the benefits of this exceptional rose, Sisley launched the Black Rose Cream Mask. Beyond its sensorial experience, users find an instant effect on the skin’s vitality, freshness and radiance, leading to its worldwide success.

“The Black Rose is rich in carotenoids, which are very good free-radical traps and help bring nutrition, emolliency and softness to the skin,” explains José Ginestar, Sisley’s scientific director. “Each rose is formed of 40 petals that are highly concentrated in active molecules. In order to preserve their full power, they are picked by hand, only between May and June, as they first bloom.”

The oily extract of the rose infuses deep down to deliver anti-free radical properties, while the aqueous extract works as a beauty elixir to smooth and soften the skin. In addition to the original Cream Mask, the collection has now expanded to include the Precious Face Oil, Skin Infusion Cream, Eye Contour Fluid and Beautifying Body Emulsion.

沉默的花香 Silence iS golden

Some flowers refuse to let their scent be captured in a perfumes, so issey Miyake recreates it by human hand

Story | Leslie Yip

Issey Miyake的經典香水L’Eau d’Issey面世至今將近30年， 今天品牌的香氛將開啟前所未見的視野。靈感再次來自賦予我們 生命的水，其原型就是一點水滴，名字A Drop d’Issey由此而來， 而圓型扁平的瓶身設計模仿水滴落在地面上的形態，充滿詩意。 Nearly 30 years after Issey Miyake Parfums released L’Eau d’Issey, the brand is opening a new chapter in its scent story. Drawing inspiration once again from life-giving water, the creative team takes us to its poetic original form: one single drop. Hence the name A Drop d’Issey and a flat, round glass bottle mimicking the flattening of a water droplet as it lands on a surface.

香水造型的創作概念不難理解，那香氣又如何呢？調香師 Ane Ayo決定挑戰自己，選用「沉默的花香」，即採用以傳統萃取方 法如蒸餾法和冷吸法都不容易展露香氣的花卉。最後她揀選了小 巧而且平易近人的丁香花。

就好像侍酒師能識別不同紅酒的特性，Ayo把丁香香氣的特 性重組再造，這全憑她在Grasse受訓多年的歷練以及周遊列國所 獲得的經驗。

她先以杏仁奶帶出柔和的前調，再以花香為主軸散發自然氣 息。為了把充滿陽光氣息的丁香香氣完全展露出來，她配以細膩 的香橙花和玫瑰，打造光芒煥發且叫人心動的花香；茴香令丁香 花的香氣更加突出；茉莉花把丁香花包裹着，提升其香氣。圓潤 的麝香為後調，加上香蘭素和龍涎香，令人倍感柔和。木質清香 叫人舒適愜意、寬慰安心，而且十分療癒，無論搭配清爽的麻質 連身裙又或暖洋洋的毛絨圍巾都一樣合適。

別出心裁的瓶身出自美國設計師Todd Bracher手筆，設計簡 約的圓潤瓶身有神來之筆——剛好可放入大姆指的凹位，以及柔 軟的瓶蓋，只需輕按便可釋出香水。創作團隊更以可持續發展為 元素，由香水設計及包裝，至細意挑選的成份，糅合大自然與新 科技，達至保護環境的目標。

The visual concept may be easy to grasp, but what does it smell like? Perfumer Ane Ayo decides to challenge herself to encapsulate the beauty of “silent flowers”—those which refuse to yield their scent via traditional extraction methods, such as distillation and enfleurage. She chooses the dainty and familiar lilac.

Ayo has to recompose the characteristics of the lilac’s aroma, much like a sommelier discerns the many nuances of a wine’s bouquet. This is where she draws experience from years of training in Grasse, France, as well as extensive travel around the world.

Dissecting its olfactory composition, she uses almond milk in the top notes to set a soft tone, while a botanical accord reinforces the natural feel. To magnify the sunny nature of the flower, she pairs delicate orange blossom with rose to create a radiant floral heart. A touch of star anise echoes the physical facet of the lilac floret and jasmine lactones enhance the enveloping effect.

This whole bouquet rests on a base of creamy musks, with biovanillin and Ambrox amplifying the sensation of softness. The fragrance is musky, cozy and reassuring, a cocoon of comfort that is as much at ease with a summer linen dress as with a warm and fuzzy cashmere wrap.

The distinctive bottle created by American designer Todd Bracher combines the simplicity of a perfectly round glass pebble with a tactile touch—a dip to rest your thumb and the gentle press of a built-in soft touch cap to release the scent.

Throughout this project, sustainability is top of mind. From the design of the bottle and box, to the carefully considered selection of ingredients, nature and technology come together to reinterpret and protect nature.

Issey Miyake A Drop d’Issey, 50 ml | $114, 90 ml | $142