久別喜逢新 dining to tell: that’s a stunner

久別喜逢新 ThaT’s a sTunner

notable new restaurants in Toronto to try now

Story & Photography | Renée S. Suen

望穿秋水，雖然要遵守比以往嚴謹的健康和安全守則，但終於可以到 餐廳堂食，實在教人欣喜。難得的是不少新餐廳經過漫長等待而開業，靠的 當然不只是熱誠，最重要的還是引人美食。 After a long hiatus from indoor dining, Toronto restaurants welcomed guests back with open arms in July, some with stunning new dining rooms. Here’s a closer look at a trio that are giving food lovers plenty of reasons to head back out to eat in(doors). Reservations are recommended; health and safety procedures are in place.

Myth餐廳室內中央旭日形天花板裝置的琥珀色燈光，會模 仿希臘島嶼的日出和日落而轉變，不同時候有不同情調。 The interior’s mood in Myth transitions throughout the evening, with amber lighting that dims to mimic the island’s rising and setting sun from the room’s central sunburst ceiling installation.

Brant Street側翼露台設有大量有 蓋座位供戶外用餐。 The patio flanking Brant Street offers plenty of covered seating options to enjoy your meal al fresco.

Meze Dips拼盤以甜菜鷹嘴豆泥、melitzanosalata茄子醬、tirokafteri芝士沾醬和橄 欖醬配搭自家製pita薄餅。 Paired with warm and thin house-made pita, the Meze Dips platter features beet hummus, melitzanosalata, tirokafteri and olive tapenade. Vase Room內的手工古董花瓶均經嚴格挑選並委託當地藝術家修復。 Hand-picked antique vases that the group picked and commissioned a local artist to restore for the Vase Room.

海鮮拼盤包括蝦、新斯高沙省龍蝦及東岸生蠔等。 The showstopping Cold Seafood Platter brims with shrimp, Nova Scotia lobster, gravlax, cocktail sauce, spicy mango chutney and mignonette. Supplement the feast with an order of East Coast oysters. Myth的Paidakia以草飼澳洲羊扒烤製。 Myth’s version of Paidakia features beautifully grilled grass-fed Australian lamb chops and tzatziki.

MyTH

Myth的靈感源自其前身UNIQ Hospitality Group的 Myth on Danforth，這家旗艦店於1994年開業時，與當時 Danforth附近小酒館式的希臘餐廳相比，被認為是走在潮 流之先的餐廳；現在於King的新址，其實是第二代將父 母當年的餐廳再現，融合了美食、文化、氛圍和慶典於一 身。

位於King街現址的Myth，用了7個月時間將前身歷史 悠久的E.C. Gurney & Co. Stove Foundry建築物，打造成 面積達5千平方呎、仿如希臘愛琴海Mykonos和Cyclades 的小島風情。寬敞的場地內是度身定造的木製品、藝術品 和裝飾；室內可容納多達150人，露台則可招待60人。

以清新和充滿變化的地中海風味見稱，Myth的希臘 美食菜單偏向於傳統的愛琴海風味，並著重於新鮮的海 鮮。在行政總廚Sergio Abrunho和Tulio Lessa的帶領下， 餐廳傳達了希臘喜歡集體用餐的特色，這亦展示在他們的 餐桌上︰除了適合分享的開胃菜，開放式廚房的菜餚還包 括那些融合了從希臘進口食材的菜餚，包括鱸魚、以來自 Santorini的豆蓉來伴烤八爪魚、以Kefalograviera芝士炮 製充滿戲劇效果的火焰芝士、鹽焗魚和paidakia（羊扒）。

愛喝酒的話，這裡有以希臘神話和奧林匹斯山上諸神 為靈感的雞尾酒，以希臘酒品如Metaxa、Ouzo和Mastiha 調製。酒類選擇還包括多款寄售葡萄酒、來自希臘和其它 地中海地區的佳品。 A convergence of food, culture, ambiance and celebration, Myth takes inspiration from its predecessor, UNIQ Hospitality Group’s Myth on Danforth. Opened in 1994, the flagship was considered ahead of its time in contrast to its contemporaries that were largely tavern-style Greek restaurants.

For the location on King St. W., it took seven months to transform the historic former E.C. Gurney & Co. Stove Foundry building into a 5,000-square-foot scene from the seaside of Mykonos and the Cyclades Islands. The spacious venue is lined with custom woodwork and commissioned artwork, and is outfitted at full capacity to seat 150 inside and 60 on its terrazas.

Showcasing the fresh and vibrant flavours of the Mediterranean, Myth’s modern Greek menu is fresh and flavourful, skewing towards traditional Aegean flavours with a heavy emphasis on fresh seafood. Led by executive chefs Sergio Abrunho and Tulio Lessa, the culinary program channels the group-style dining characteristic of the region, which is evident in their table-filling dishes.

In addition to share-friendly meze, the open kitchen’s dishes include those that incorporate ingredients imported from Greece, including sea bass, fava from Santorini that’s made into a puree that sides grilled octopus and Kefalograviera cheese that’s set aflame in the theatrical Saganaki appetizer. There’s also salt baked fish and paidakia (lamb chops).

Cocktails are inspired by Greek mythology and made using Greek products, including liqueurs such as Metaxa, Ouzo and Mastiha. Oenophiles will be pleased to learn that the list is made up of consignment wines and is stocked with an eclectic collection of Greek vintages and is rounded out by other Mediterranean options. 522 King St. W. (entrance on Brant St.) 416-703-2800 mythrestaurant.com

二樓的Tavern Room有開放式廚房，充滿經典美式小酒館感覺。 The second floor’s Tavern Room embodies the feel of classic American bistros and has a view of the open kitchen.

STOCK BAR

兩位多倫多飲食界殿堂級人物︰Cumbrae's的Stephen Alexander和擁有Terroni餐廳家族和Sud Forno而聞名的Cosimo Mammoliti，去年於中城區合作創辦的Stock T.C.，由於供應各式 優質食材和食品，成為講究飲食人士的聖地。而當這個夏天兩人再 在此開設樓高三層的餐廳Stock Bar，更讓整個美食計劃變得圓滿 和有吸引力。

經過改造的Postal Station K分佈在三層樓，每個空間在建 造和設計方面均各有別緻裝飾，向建築物往昔歷史致敬。比方在 Tavern的地板便讓人想起郵票的鋸齒邊，牆上的信箱插槽，以及 公文袋圖案的定製燈罩。

在地面那層的寬敞露台可容納多至100位客人。從Yonge街入口 走進，長長的庭院四周綠樹成蔭，有專屬酒吧，供應午餐和晚餐。

若是從正門進入，顧客首先會到達美食超市部分，然後 從中央樓梯走到豪華而鬱鬱蔥蔥的二樓Tavern Room、三樓的 Montgomery Room或是頂層的Rooftop Garden Patio。亦可選擇 Helendale Avenue的入口，使用電梯到達所有用餐區。

二樓Tavern Room的家俬都是在本地定製，加上開放式廚 房，滿有經典美式小酒館的感覺。除了古老的法式鑄造黃銅檯面和 粉綠色Connemara大理石外，還有環繞閃閃發光中央酒吧的豪華 皮革襯裡隔間，適合小型聚會的高頂座位。除了半私人餐廳，沿西 牆延伸的還有引人注目的墨西哥瓷磚馬賽克畫，描繪加拿大島嶼和 森林的粉紅色日落景色，是一位本地藝術家花了4個月時間才完成 的作品。 Drawing crowds to midtown, this temple of food partners two Toronto stalwarts—Cumbrae’s Stephen Alexander and Cosimo Mammoliti, best known for owning Terroni’s family of restaurants and Sud Forno. While they opened the culinary mecca’s gourmet grocer, Stock T.C., last year, the entire project was completed when they launched Stock Bar, a three-storey restaurant and patio dining extravaganza early this summer.

Spread out over three floors of the revamped Postal Station K in the yonge-Eglinton neighbourhood, each space has its own dramatic qualities in the build and design. The Tavern, for instance, has fun accents that pay homage to the building’s past, such as deckle-edged floors that are a nod to postage stamps, letterbox slots in the walls, plus bespoke lampshades imprinted with the patterns found on security envelopes.

Vibrant and spacious, the expansive Ground Floor Terrace caters up to 100 guests. The long patio, accessed off yonge Street, is surrounded by greenery. It has its own bar and is open for lunch and dinner.

From the main entrance, guests enter the grocery and walk up a central staircase to their plush and lush second-floor Tavern Room, or third-floor Montgomery Room or Rooftop Garden Patio. Off the Helendale Avenue entrance, you’ll find a set of elevators that can take you to all three dining spaces.

Filled with custom-made furnishings, all by local producers, the second floor’s Tavern Room embodies the feel of classic American bistros, with a view of the open kitchen. Besides old French-style cast brass countertops that are faced with creamy green Connemara Marble, there are plush leather-lined booths surrounding a gleaming central bar where there’s high-top seating for smaller parties.

位於三樓的Montgomery Room擁有新建的玻璃屋頂， 開揚明亮，設有組式座椅，亦可舉行最多容納100人的私人活 動。令人驚嘆的桃木天花板，模仿曲折的花園格架；華麗的U 形酒吧，由明亮的玫瑰圓頂、帆布椅子和棕色瓷磚照亮，並通 往Rooftop Garden部分。

Rooftop Garden的露天用餐區既可在天氣狀況容許下作 Montgomery Room的延伸，亦可用於私人活動，容納多達100 位客人。這裡除了是從Eglington走廊飽覽城市美景的好地方， 亦可同時欣賞酒吧經理Niko Conti調製雞尾酒的功架，這些雞 尾酒的靈感來自世界地，而且不那麼甜。

有美食界響噹噹名字Cumbrae's和Terroni加持，食物的 水準和廚藝自然不在話下。現有菜單可說是集美式意大利小酒 館如Alexander、Mammoliti with Pasquini和Ward的大成，都 是豐儉由人，適合分享的菜餚，例如是炸魷魚圈、全隻烤雞、 Terroni的經典蘑菇沙拉、環保的養殖牛扒、手工製作的意大利 麵食和薄餅……所選用的優質食材均來自同集團在地面那層的 Stock TC。周末還提供早午餐，菜式包括炒蛋伴新鮮即刨黑松 露、牛油果多士和自家製白肉腸伴蔬菜等。

侍酒師兼葡萄酒總監Drew Innes為餐廳設計了以價值主導 的非一般酒單，以小型生產商為主，當中來自意大利小酒莊的 便是集團專門為餐廳引進。假如食客在餐廳嚐過並喜歡，還可 以到樓下的食品超市選購。品酒愛好者往往有驚喜體會，就像 在訪問時，才發現Alsatian pinot gris原來跟牛扒是絕妙配搭。

Besides a semi-private dining room, the floor is also home to an eye-catching Mexican tile mosaic of a pink sunset over the Canadian Shield’s islands and forests. The commissioned piece runs the length of the west wall and took a local artist four months to complete.

Housed in a new glass-enclosed rooftop structure on the third floor, the Montgomery Room is light and airy, and has modular seating that allows it to also function as a private event space for up to 100 people. The fully accessible room is outfitted with a stunning mahogany ceiling that’s designed to mimic a zig-zagging garden trellis, a gorgeous U-shaped bar that’s lit by a luminous rose dome, canvas chairs and brown quarry tiles, and walks out to the Rooftop Garden.

Available for private events and as an add-on to the Montgomery Room, the Rooftop Garden Patio can cater to up to 100 guests and offers a panoramic view of the city. you might see bar manager Niko Conti shaking and stirring custom cocktails inspired by international destinations.

When it comes to food, there’s no holding back in quality and craftsmanship when industry stalwarts Cumbrae’s and Terroni come together. The American-Italian bistro fare found on the extensive menu is a collaboration between Alexander, Mammoliti with Pasquini and Ward, and features approachable, share-friendly dishes ranging from calamari fritti to whole rotisserie chicken. There’s also Terroni’s classic funghi assoluti salad, hand-crafted pastas and pizza, and sustainable farmed steaks, all using the same premium ingredients found in their ground-floor grocery. There’s weekend brunch with dishes such as soft scrambled eggs with freshly shaved black truffle, avocado toast and house-made boudin blanc with vegetables.

Sommelier and Wine Director Drew Innes has chosen a value-driven and unconventional wine list that showcases predominantly smaller producers, including those from Italy, which the group imports exclusively for the space. He has created a unique program, where guests who’ve enjoyed their restaurant wine experience can then pick up a bottle with a similar profile downstairs at Stock TC. Oenophiles will likely encounter revelatory experiences, where on one visit an unlikely pairing of an Alsatian pinot gris was a superb match to steak frites. 2388 yonge St. 416-489-102 stocktc.com

置身Rooftop Garden露台，城市美景一覽無遺。 The Rooftop Garden Patio offers a panoramic view of the city from its Yonge-Eglinton location.

龍蝦和蝦肉包。 Lobster and shrimp roll stuffs a toasted pain brioche with a generous filling made of the poached crustaceans, mayo, lemon, chili, tomato and chives.

來自Cumbrae's 的10安士頂級picanha西冷牛扒。 Doing their version of steak frites, the dish spotlights a 10-ounce prime picanha/top sirloin from Cumbrae’s that’s served with hand-cut fries.

外露的磚塊、木材以及精緻的拋光飾 面，讓裝潢充滿層次和質感。 Full of layers and textures, the modern homage is a blend of original exposed brick and timber with refined, polished finishes.

VELA

向大酒店的大堂酒吧致敬，Vela教人聯想起古老的 Copacabana。先聲奪人的戲劇化入口，雕刻感特色設計的4千 平方呎空間，配合皮製長椅、皮革飾面吧台、白色Carrera大理 石桌子、波浪形模製天花板……交織出1920年代的氛圍。

160個分別為私密廂座和舒適餐桌的座位之外，也有沿開 放式廚房和酒吧的20個櫃檯座位，以及其它低靠背座位。喜歡 在戶外用餐的話，可以選擇這裡2千平方英尺的有蓋CaféTO露 台，南面部分是有太陽傘的花園露台，北面則採用涼棚。

Vela的菜單結合了五星級精品酒店和新美國美食的精粹。 由新鮮清淡海鮮如油甘魚製的日式刺身Hamachi Crudo、全植 物且不含麩質的Wedge沙拉、不含鵝肝或蟹肉卻有其神韻和美 味的Artichoke Cakes炸朝鮮薊餅及Cashew Torchon、至傳統 主菜包括24安士的熟成肉眼牛扒等。除了午餐和周末早午餐， 還有全日供應至深夜的酒店客房餐單。

為適合食客不同口味和喜好，這裡的雞尾酒有四個部分︰ 以香檳為基礎，並以國際城市為靈感的「Vacation drinks」， 從電影中汲取靈感、充滿想象力的「Reality check」，不含 酒精的「Placebo」，以及有30款經典雞尾酒選擇的「Global Classics」。而「The Old World」的酒單包括經過浸皮的白酒、 安省酒莊和在拍賣會上投得的葡萄酒。

An homage to the Grand Hotel lobby bar, this dreamy project is a modern-day Copacabana—from the dramatic entrance and its carved-out design, up to the standing champagne bar that opens into a cavernous 4,000-square-foot space. The fresh, contemporary room has a 1920s vibe weaving throughout its gusseted seafoam leather banquettes, leather facing bar, white Carrera marble tables and a stunning undulating molded ceiling with integrated LED lighting.

Guests have the choice of 160 seats divided among intimate booths, cozy dining room tables, 20 counter seats lining the open kitchen and bar, plus more at its low-seating lounge. Those who enjoy dining outside can do so on their 2,000-square-foot covered CaféTO patio that’s divided between an umbrella-covered garden patio on the south end and a pergola-covered section on the north.

Diners will be thrilled to find a menu that pays tribute to the timeless seasonal New American fare typically encountered in five-star boutique hotels. There’s light and fresh raw seafood, like the Hamchi Crudo, and the crowd-pleasing Wedge Salad that happens to be completely plant-based and gluten-free.

Find traditional mains that include a 24-ounce, dry-aged ribeye with sides next to cashew torchon and artichoke cakes that don’t contain foie gras or crab (but are uncanny mimics). Besides lunch and weekend brunch (think hot in-room dining breakfast spreads), there’s a shortlisted Room Service menu that’s available all day into late night.

There’s sure to be a tipple for every taste in the bar. Cocktails here are divided into four sections, including a focus on champagne-based, spirit-forward “vacation drinks” that are inspired by international cities, whimsical “reality check” that take their cue from movies and a 30-deep list devoted to finessed Global Classics.

Teetotallers are well taken care of with thoughtful placebo cocktails. Meanwhile, those who love bubbly will be delighted that the restaurant places a spotlight on champagne and its sparkling cousins. The Old World dominated wine list showcases everything from skin contact and Ontario producers to coveted vintages secured at auction. 602 King St. W. (entrance on Portland St.) 416-364-1111 velatoronto.com

酥脆的卑詩省Steelhead鱒魚。 BC Steelhead trout is lovingly pan-seared until crispy and sits on an ethereal pool of non-dairy ajo blanco, with charred grapes and finished with an herb oil and toasted almonds.

純素/無麩質/無堅果的Wedge Salad沙律，在厚切西生菜上添加鮮味芝麻醬味噌 醬汁、香脆向日葵素腸、番茄等菜蔬。亦可選擇添加雞肉、蝦或三文魚，但需 支付額外費用。 The classic wedge salad gets a modern plant-based spin topping a thick slice of iceberg with an umami-rich, tahini-miso ranch dressing, crisp sunflower “chorizo,” tomatoes, red onions, radish and fresh herbs, including dill. There’s the option to add chicken, shrimp or salmon to the vegan/ gluten-free/nut-free dish for an additional cost.

希望吃得奢華些，可以享用以8克加拿大Northern Divine可持續魚子醬作餡的三 文治。 Taking luxury to another level, the caviar sandwich crams eight grams of sustainable Canadian Northern Divine caviar with creme fraiche, shallots and chives between two pan-toasted slices of milk bread. Topped with cured egg yolk, there’s also a gluten-free option.