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ELLA HIGHAM CREATIVE NETWORKS FASH10106 N0487463
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Welcome to my portfolio
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Deconstruction / Semiotics / cultural / fashion / references / communication / values / positioning / styling / models / terry richardson / message / tone / target / consumer
FRAGRANCE ADVERTISING ANALYSIS TOM FORD X NEROLI PORTOFINO
In S/S 2011 Tom Ford took an even more controversial step into the world of fragrance by exploiting a nude Mariana Braga cavorting in a shower with an equally naked Max Motta. The advert being published in the likes of fashion bible Harper’s Bazaar, targeted at upper class fashionistas, only solidifies the fact that Ford’s creations are of importance.
Tom Ford strikes again The Big Idea Designer Tom Ford is no stranger to making scintillatingly sexy campaigns and fragrance adverts such as ‘Neroli Portofino’ definitely was not the beginning of change. The Neroli Portofino bath collection, an extension of the original fragrance features a sea of aqua creating connotations of the clear, opaque azure sea, reminiscent of the warm waters of the Mediterranean sea.
“They don’t want ordinary, and in fact, ordinary doesn’t sell for me” (Ford, 2013)
The idea behind the campaign implies that sex sells, and doesn’t Ford know it. In S/S 2004 Ford created an epically sexy campaign for Gucci, only featuring in four magazines, including Vogue, but was banned worldwide almost instantly. In one year alone, newly named creative director in 1994, Tom Ford, increased Gucci’s Sales by 90%, which has prompted Ford to carry on encapsulating consumers by his shockingly, daring campaigns.
Previous Campaigns One can immediately recognise relevant key themes throughout the adverts via Ford’s collections. Key thematic elements include sex appeal, eroticism and playful which is displayed in many of the advertisements through sexy women seductively cavorting with his products or with another model. Target Consumer As Harriet Posner states “Consumers are more likely to connect positively with a brand if they associate closely with its overall identity and ethos.” (Posner, 2011) Which could be said as to why Tom Ford’s target audience is the discerning, the stylish and the bold that is willing to pay the price to stand out. It can be seen through Ford’s luxury website and stores, alongisde the heavy price tags that Ford doesn’t do ‘just normal’. Ford himself stated “My goal is to help women become the best version of themsleves”. (Ford, 2010) Brand Values/Positioning Tom Ford’s immediate brand values when creating his own brand were to be the first true luxury brand of the twenty-first century. The label has continued to focus on superior design and products, attention to detail and its made-inItaly roots; which can be said is the reason why Tom Ford’s menswear grew dramatically during this time. Admittedly, Ford stays true to his brand. Advertising has to authentically reflect the personality of the chosen brand which is why in my view Tom Ford succeeds each time. Tom Ford builds his brand through having a clear and consistent image in the consumers mind that they can connect with and stay visible. For Tom it is about the sex and the power of tapping into emotional desire on a larger human scale; that being difficult as “most people don’t have the vision or the confidence to stand up and put it out there” states (Trey Laird, 2014) CEO and chief creative partner of Laird + Partners.
Visual Inspirations/Context Inspired by the dramatic landscape and jet-set sophistication of Portofino, the Neroli Portofino scent encapsulates its arresting beauty and stunning old-world glamour. It could be said that Fords contextual inspirations link to Italian photographer Oliviero Toscani. Toscani proudly photographed several controversial campaigns for ‘Benetton’ which came under harsh scrutiny resulting in public outrage and customers complaints. Yet at the same time the campaigns won kudos for raising public awareness of important social issues such as HIV, AIDS and a black woman mothering a white infant. Still, Toscani stands behind his approach stating ‘If an image does not provoke, then you’ve thrown your money away’ (Toscani, 2014) which is similar to Ford’s approach of ‘ordinary doesn’t sell for me’. (Ford, 2013)
The theory of postmodernism is a key ingredient to Ford’s campaigns as many women and men are becoming somewhat unfazed by images of graphic nudity via mass produced images circulating through cultural arenas. Most definitely the female body and since the 1970s, male bodies, have been presented as a sexualised object. Ford’s campaigns are so explicit they break the viewer out of their comfort zone; he manages to heighten and exaggerate the codes of postmodern advertising to strike a cord with the audience. Thus allowing them to make a connection for themselves between the disintegrating lines of contemporary advertising and the previous, ‘underworld’ of pornography.
Message and Tone of Voice Quite fittingly, Terry Richardson, known for his explicit photography, capturing the likes of Cameron Diaz, Lindsay Lohan and Kim Kardashian shot Ford’s campaign. By Richardson shooting the campaign readily sets the tone of what Ford encapsulates - beauty, luxury, desirability and sex. The continuous use of sexually provoked models throughout all of Ford’s campaigns; whether it be menswear, beauty or womenswear manages to send the ultimate message to the consumer that Tom Ford is a true luxury brand by empowering men and women in his campaigns to both look and feel sexy. Peter Arnell, known for his groundbreaking work for clients such as Chanel and Banana Republic encourages my view by stating ‘Some products everybody gets, like Tom Ford, if you never saw another Tom Ford ad, everyone would be clear on what his perspective is’. (Arnell, 2014)
“It’s just common sense marketing - put a bottle of scent in a woman’s cleavage or between her thighs - and men will notice” (Ford, Unknown)
[Images of Tom Ford’s previous campaigns]
“I suppose everything I do has sexual undertones” (Ford, 2010)
Summary Many feminists would be offended concerning the idea that women are being objectified and exploited in the brand’s advertisements. However, women who are intrigued by the idea of art and fashion, would in fact admire the creativity of the advertisement and perhaps even yearn to be the woman in the image. Recently Ford acknowledged to ‘The Guardian’ that many believe he objectifies women, in which he replied “I’m an equal opportunity objectifier – I’m just as happy to objectify men. The thing is, you can’t show male nudity in our culture in the way you can show female nudity. We’re very comfortable as a culture exploiting women, but not men. But I don’t think of it as exploitation [either way].” (Ford, 2015)
References: F, Tom. (2013). Out with the ordinary . Available: http://www.thesundaytimes.co.uk/sto/ style/fashion/People/article1249243.ece. Last accessed 18th May 2015. N, Sarah. (2015). Clap for Tom Ford. Available: http://notanotherflyer.com/?p=827. Last accessed 18th may 2015. L, Trey. (2014). Controversy: where has it gone?. Available: http://wwd.com/globe-news/ advertising/controversy-where-has-it-gone-7813542/. Last accessed 18th may 2015. O, Toscani. (2014). Controversy: where has it gone?. Available: http://wwd.com/globenews/advertising/controversy-where-has-it-gone-7813542/. Last accessed 18th may 2015. A, Peter. (2014). Controversy: where has it gone?. Available: http://wwd.com/globe-news/ advertising/controversy-where-has-it-gone-7813542/. Last accessed 18th May 2015. F, Tom. (Unknown). Tom Fords craziest quotes. Available: http://www.vogue.com.au/culture/features/galleries/tom+fords+craziest+quotes,27705. Last accessed 18th May 2015. F, Tom. (2010). Tom Ford. Available: http://nymag.com/nymetro/shopping/fashion/features/n_8936/. Last accessed 18th May 2015. F, Tom. (2015). Weekend Fashion Special. Available: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/mar/21tom-ford-im-an-equal-opportunity-objectifier. Last accessed 18th May 2015. F, Tom. (2010). Julia Restoin in Tom Ford. Available: http://www.gettinggorgeous. com/2010/12/23/sneak-peek-julia-restoin-in-tom-ford-v-magazine/. Last accessed 18th May 2015. H, Posner. (2011). Introduction To Branding. In: Unknown Marketing Fashion . London: Laurence King Publishing. 137-139.
Word Count: 1,098. Ella Higham FASH10106 NO487463
FRAGRANCE TREND BOOKLET 14/15
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Pantone: Toasted Almond
Pantone: Lucite Green
Pantone: Aquamarine
Pantone: Scuba Blue
Pantone: Classic Blue
Colour Report Spring 2015
This seasons visions cooler and softer choices with subtle warm tones following a minimalistic en plein air theme, taking a cue from nature.
NOT SO INNOCENT
Tonal greys and pale pinks are becoming the tonal wash for this season, designed to lessen the impact of the overall image and allow the bottle to stand out. Notably, many of the greyscale campaigns feature a nude model with subtle placement of arms and fabric.
WHITE OUT
Packaging takes a minimal approach with all white and metalic accents to create a fresh, crisp feel. We will see square bottles with rounded caps creating an almost snowlike tone alongside subtle use of silver and gold.
NATURE THAT
As technology continues to grow, consumers are becoming more and more encapsulated within the online world. Fragrances aim to focus on the nature aspect to allow consumers to reach out to peace and tranquility amongst their busy lives.
THE SEX APPEAL
A womans competence has never been more obvious which has stemmed the increasing rise of the uber body confident women of today. Almost seen as rebelling against modesty, women throw themselves into being seen as a sexualised object to rein in as much attention as possible - whether is it for the right reason or not the publicity’s eyes are all on them.
FRAGRANCE PACKAGING DESIGN (OWN WORK)
FRAGRANCE PACKAGING DESIGN BY ELLA HIGHAM
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‘To care for those who once cared for us is one of the highest honours’
Our project is to create our own fragrance brand. Through primary and secondary research we selected our macro trend as ‘Age generation’. Influenced by the rising statistics regarding Alzhiemers; Forget Me Not help to combat both the heartache and the loneliness of both living with and supporting someone with Alzheimers by offering a bespoke fragrance making class for both the patient and their carer. This booklet is to brief graphic students on the different features of our end design requirements.
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Concept What is our concept? The need for our product.
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Consumer Our target consumer. Our promotion plan.
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Competition Who is our competition? How are we different? Product positioning.
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Bottle & Packaging Our Design requirements. Packaging details. Logo.
Forget Me Not attempts to bring our consumer and their relative together by creating new memories whilst delving into many year old ones. We give the chance to our consumers to create their own bespoke perfume whilst evoking memory recollection within their relative. Primarily we provide a comforting and relaxing experience for patients and their loved one. It is important that Forget Me Not reflects memories, celebrates family and tradition, inspires creativity and creates an enjoyable, happy experience.
CONCEPT
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF
CONSUMER JENNY
is a fifty two year old, married for fifteen years and a mother of three grown up boys. You will find Jenny working thirty hours a week as a jewellery designer based twenty minutes drive away from her country home. The rest of her time is spent primarily looking after her mother who was diagnosed with early signs of alzheimers one year ago, since then it has been getting progressively worse. Jenny attempts to keep positive by painting, riding her beloved horse, Noah, and taking her dog, Duke, on long walks down the country lane. Jenny loves to cook freshly made evening tea for herself and her husband and occassionaly invites her mother and her partner over to join, however she cannot help but feel a huge strain on her shoulders when trying to think of new and interesting places to take her mother that they can both enjoy. Jenny realises that she herself is only getting older and whilst she cannot bear the thought of anything happening to her mother, she fully acknowledges that alzheimer’s is a gradual illness and so wants to participate in activities that both of them can enjoy throughout the precious time they have left together.
COMPETITION
FORGET ME NOT COLOUR PALETTE
Through research we have found that the UK is very limited in fragrance making classes for families, especially families with a relative suffering from Alzheimer’s. Our aim is to create an experience that patients and carers can unite and create a bespoke fragrance to evoke memory recollection. We aim to promote ourseleves through doctors surgeries, hopsitals, established health and wellbeing classes, the media and to collaborate with the ‘forget me not’ charity. Currently there is not one fragrance making class for alzheimer patients and their loved ones on the market. What we are marketing is an experience that allows the pressure to be taken off of our consumer for the afternoon, ultimately allowing herself to unwind and delve into something both therapuetic and creative. Educational/Physical Alzheimers Disease and Other Dementias Karen Gilbert Gardening Classes Indoor Boules
Plush Folly Into The Blue UK GIrl Thing Perfume Studio
Cotswold Perfumery
Perfumery Making Class, France Relaxing Environment
Bespoke Perfume Jo Malone, Bespoke Wedding Perfume Mathilde Laurent Guarlain, Paris
Capture Life’s Journey
Music and Dance
Scent Library, Bejing
Cafe Connect
Mandy Aftel Memory Recollection
BOTTLE AND PACKAGING
Authentic Logo featured Branding throughout merchandise Sold on website/blog/forum Links to our consumer Genderless Neautral Simplistic Environmentally friendly
Both our bottle and packaging and logo will take inspiration from the likes of Aesop, Alex Lixfield and Herbivore Botanicals. Our main aim is to create an authentic, genderless gift package that will then be taken to the fragrance making class. We as a brand are collaborating with the existing charity ‘Forget Me Not’ as it will ultimately benefit both brands and so this needs to be noticable within the gift package. By ourselves collaborating with such an established charity will spread the message for our upcoming classes as well as the Forget Me Not charity benefiting from having a sister brand that offers further help and creativity as well as gaining 10% of our profits.
RESEARCH AND CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT
FORGET
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FRAGRANCE BRAND PROPOSAL
INITIAL IDEAS NATURAL PRODUCTS Use only organic and natural products as part of our brand values.
NOSTALGIA Remind our consumers of their youth, and the things that they loved and were interested in.
EMPOWERING Celebrating memories and the moment we have now.
FAMILY Connect with our consumers through family values. A brand for grandmothers and mothers with their suffering relatives.
SAMPLE BOTTLES A tester bottle that you can take away with you so you don’t have to make a commitment in store.
BESPOKE PERFUMES The opportunity to personalise fragrances and the bottles.
THE BIG IDEA: FORGET ME NOT Influenced by the rising statistics regarding alzheimer’s; Forget Me Not help to combat both the heartache and the loneliness of both living with and supporting someone with alzheimer’s by offering a bespoke fragrance making class for both the patient and the carer. With ‘half a million women in the UK living with dementia’(Unknown, 2015), Forget Me Not provides comfort as well as a methodical, creative aspect.
MACRO
Empowering women Ageing Generation Sustainability Environment Wearable tech Big data Social media Industrial Evolution
MICRO
Getting into shape Crop and composition Essence explosion Grey generations Sex appeal Not so innocent White out Art of seduction Crystal Clean New Nudes
A G E L E S S S O C I E T Y
‘From 1990 to 2030, the number of people in the world over the age of 65 will increase by 200%’. ‘225,000 people will develop dementia this year, that is one every three minutes’. ‘It is proven that it is beneficial for alzheimer sufferer’s to maintain hobbies and socialise’
60’S NOSTALGIA Icons: Jean Shrimpton, Twiggy, Cher, Jackie Kennedy Movies: Musicals like West Side Story and The sound of Music. Alfred Hitchcock movies like Psycho and The Birds. Music: The Beatles, Janis Joplin, Jimmi Hendrix, The Supremes, Etta James, Nina Simone, The Rolling Stones. Designers: Jean Patou, Mary Quant & Pucci
MARKET EXPANSION Expand to become a lifestyle brand Open to both male and female Pros
Gender
Luxury
Opportunities
Bigger profits
Forget Me Not
Sectors
Health focus
Mental benefits
Statistic driven
NHS free schemes
Two age groups to target and attract
BRAND DEVELOPMENT (OWN WORK)
F O R G E T M E N O T Brand Launch
THE BIG IDEA
Influenced by the rising statistics regarding Alzhiemer’s; Forget Me Not help to combat both the heartache and the loneliness of both living with and supporting someone with Alzheimers by offering a bespoke fragrance making class for both the patient and their carer. With ‘half a million women in the UK living with dementia’ (Unknown, 2015), Forget Me Not provides comfort as well as a methodical, creative approach.
BRAND DEVELOPMENT
KEY INSIGHTS THAT DROVE FORGET ME NOT Macro Trends: Empowering women Ageing Generation Sustainability Environment Wearable tech Big data Social media Industrial Evolution Micro Trends: Getting into shape Crop and composition Essence explosion Grey generations Sex appeal Not so innocent White out Art of seduction Crystal Clean New Nudes From the onset, we already envisioned creating a fragrance making class. Primary research shown that there was a huge gap in the market for bringing consumers together through fragrance, it was just how niche we were going to make it. Through personal situations and noticing first hand the struggle of balancing your own life alongside caring for someone that you could not bear the thought of suffering alone, to the frighteningly true statistics of how much scent can help a sufferer of alzheimer’s; fragrance making classes for Alzheimer patients and their carers was born.
POSITIONING MAP
Educational/Physical
Alzheimer Disease and Other Dementias
Karen Gilbert
Gardening Classes Into The Blue UK Girl Thing
Indoor Boules Plush Folly
Cotswold Perfumery Perfume Making Holiday, France
Relaxing Environment
Bespoke Perfume
Jo Malone, Bespoke Wedding Perfume Mathilde Laurent
Capture Life’s Journey Guarlain, Paris
Music and Dance
Cafe Connect
Memory Recollection
CONSUMER PROFILE
Jenny is a fifty two year old, married for fifteen years and a mother of three grown up children. You will find Jenny working thirty hours a week as a jewellery designer based twenty minutes drive away from her country home. The rest of her time is spent primarily looking after her mother who was diagnosed with early signs of alzheimer’s one year ago, since then it has been getting progressively worse. Jenny attempts to keep positive by painting, riding her beloved horse, Noah, and taking her dog, Duke, on long walks down the country lane. Jenny loves to cook freshly home made evening tea for herself and her husband and occasionaly invites her mother and her partner over to join, however she cannot help but feel a huge strain on her shoulders when trying to think of new and interesting places to take her mother that they can both enjoy. Jenny realises that she herself is only getting older and whilst she cannot bear the thought of anything happening to her mother, she fully acknowledges that alzheimer’s is a gradual illness and so wants to participate in activities that both of them can enjoy throughout the precious time they have left together.
BUT IS YOUR IDEA COMPELLING?
Forget Me Not allows the patient and their carer to unwind for the afternoon. With our very own professionals, equipment and materials - no experience is neccessary. Our aim is to provide the ultimate relaxing experience as long as you bring your imagination. The main concept that led us to create this niche brand is that there is not one single fragrance making class for alzhiemer patients and yet it is proven that scent is the number one sense to evoke memories. What we are marketing is an experience that allows the pressure to be taken off of our consumer for the afternoon, ultimately allowing herself to unwind and delve into something both therapeutic and creative.
BRAND MODEL
Brand vision: Our main aim is to create an enjoyable, comforting experience for both the patient and the carer that has health, social and personal benefits.
Brand essence and values: As a brand, we stand for health, family, memories and reconnection which we hope to utilise as part of
Look, behave and talk: The personality of the brand is caring, supportive, understanding. We will use personal, emotive language to connect with the consumer and have a very minimal, personal appearance.
Brand positioning: Aimed at a niche market, our brand is the first therapeutic class to focus on scent.
our experience.
Visually, Forget Me Not inspiration has derived from the likes of Aesop, Alex Lixfield and Herbivore Botanicals. One of our main visual aims is to create an authentic, genderless gift package that will then be taken to the fragrance making class and so when briefing our graphics team we specifically asked for a neutral and simplistic design as well as being environmentally friendly. Our latest research shows that using natural materials for fragrance bottles is fast becoming a key trend for spring/ summer ‘15 according to WGSN. They state ‘“Fragrance companies are looking to Mother Nature for their packaging materials, creating minimalist and earthy flacons enhanced by the natural beauty of wood, stone and rope”’(WGSN, 2015), and so we want to hone in on this trend to keep our brand looking and feeling current.
BRAND IDENTITY
Our brand name Forget Me Not was established through researching about the forget-me-not flowers which symbolise true love. As the name suggests they are given or used to decorate gifts with the hope the recipient will not forget the giver. It also symbolises faithful love and memories. From this we recognised the similarities between the flower’s connotations and our brand and so Forget Me Not was established. Our brand personality offers a lighthearted, happy, reminiscent mood and so we hope to encapsulate this through using bright, natural lighting throughout our imagery. Our logo signifies the ongoing relationship between our consumer, their loved one and our brand. By using a circle it demonstrates that both alzheimer’s and relationships are a continuous cycle and so we offer an endless list of scents that can be recreated within our bespoke fragrance making classes to ensure our consumer does not feel like our class is a one time only visit.
EXECUTION PLACE Targeted at the working class, older woman 45+ Sold on specific brand website forgetmenot. co.uk Initially UK however potential to branch world wide Niche market
PRICE Mid market level 45+ years old ÂŁ40 for an afternoon for two Aim to use natural and recycled packaging
PEOPLE Employees:active, passionate, outdoor lover, creative, retired lovers Consumers: Creative, passionate, caring, family orientated Supportive fragrance making class PHYSICAL EVIDENCE Friendly interface with simplistic, genderless design Colour palette presenting pastel, pale colours When gift package is ordered confirmation email offering further promotions sent
PRODUCT Recycled gift packaging 10% profits to alzheimer charity Alzheimer’s Research Easy to hold - safe packaging to take home Class offers for two Loyalty card for consumer PROMOTIONS Blog/forum communication between consumers and professionals Loyalty card Adverts and marketing to give a positive but influential, thought provoking message
PARTICIPATION Consumers immersed within the brand and what positive effects it can have on both the consumer and their relative Blog interviews and photos from previous fragrance making classes Facebook group sharing statistics Forum sharing consumer emotions/needing guidance
BRAND ADVERT (Own work)
SUPPORTING IMAGES
Mood: Lighthearted, happy, reminscent Props: Frames, old photographs, flowers Lighting: Bright, natural lighting, morning haze effect
PROMOTIONAL PLAN (INDIVIDUAL)
FORGET ME NOT Promotional Plan Ella Higham Creative Networks / FASH10106 / 2015 / N0487463