STROBING
TO SCULPT & CHANGE
ELLA RICHARDS 足足足
N0557502 1
FASH10105
CONTENTS
WHAT’S TO COME 1. FRONT COVER 2. CONTENTS What’s To Come
3. INTRODUCTION Strobing To Sculpt & Change
4. ADVERTISING CAMPAIGNS Yves Saint Laurent v Rimmel
6. VISUAL MERCHANDISING Guerlain v Benefit Cosmetics
10. A CREATIVE CONTEXT Art Stage Film
14. A HISTORICAL, SOCIAL AND CULTURAL CONTEXT Glamour Social Youth
20. IDEA AND CONCEPT Bespoke Sculpting Booth
25. REFERENCES 28. BACK COVER
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INTRODUCTION
STROBING TO SCULPT & CHANGE A key trend seen on catwalks and throughout beauty brands has been highlighting, using cream products in champagne, gold and whites to replace a previous trend of contouring. The makeup technique commonly called Strobing is a process of highlighting and illuminating your face as if you are under a spotlight which flatters and creates a ‘lit from within’ look. The related products are used to transform the shape of
In fact, this technique and trend has started the revolutionary idea that makeup can be used instead of plastic surgery, as seen in many books such as “Plastic Surgery Without The Surgery: The Miracle of Makeup Techniques” by Eve Pearl. Highlighters are sold and marketed using certain words and phrases such as brightening, illuminating, and glowing to create a healthy and
your face by drawing attention to the accentuated and light reflecting parts of the face, by doing this it sculpts and can easily change how the face looks.
young complexion. This means that the products appeal to a variety of ages and demographics depending on the brand which adapts the trend.
Figures have reported highlighter sales are up by 14.3%, to £390 million in 2015(1) showing that this trend has taken off thanks to the marketing, social media and history behind it.
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ADVERTISING CAMPAIGNS STROBING TO SCULPT & CHANGE
Yves Saint Laurent are promoting their
The way the model is carelessly holding the pen creates the thought that this is an effortless look and the product creates all the magic. The campaign is full of rich colours - predominantly gold, connoting a premium product and the lifestyle to go with it. These colours contrast with the shadowed background and dark clothes, with a spotlight being put on the model it creates the idea that the glowing effect is due to the Touche Éclat.
classic Touche Éclat highlighter. Instantly the viewer is drawn to the dark eyes of the model where her stare is compelling and the atmosphere is dangerous and seductive. After this the focus is attracted to her sculpted face and highlighted cheekbones which create a dramatic effect. This relates to the products illuminating and radiating qualities, which is emphasised by the tip of the pen glowing. The advertisement does well to communicate the power of the product, with the consumer assuming that the defined face is due to the product the model is holding; this is how they would obtain the look.
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Rimmel’s advertisement for their ‘Wake Up & Glow’ collection features their iconic brand ambassador Kate Moss, this automatically connects the brand with a high profile image and one which consumers would want to be associated with. The title ‘Wake Up & Glow’ stands out above anything else in the campaign, emphasising the collections aim and the results achievable. After the viewers attention is brought away from the bright banner, it is caught by Moss’s defined features and highlighted face. Rimmel have focused on how much of an impact this product has on the consumer, emphasising the glowing effect. This is achieved by the shadow underneath her chin and sculpted cheekbones, effectively changing the way the face looks for a more defined and luminescent look.
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Both brands are from very different market levels, with YSL appealing to a higher end customer and Rimmel competing in mass market. It can be seen from the YSL campaign that they are focusing on a much broader story, the idea of danger and sex-appeal within their advertisement is a narrative carried through in all of their beauty campaigns. In comparison, Rimmel’s advertisement has little depth to
From this we can see that YSL has a luxury appeal to the consumer whereas Rimmel is adapting its campaign for a younger demographic with a more natural look who look up to Kate Moss. Both brands have emphasised the structure of the models faces, with chiselled cheekbones being the main attraction, followed by glowing skin, both campaigns connoting that bone structure is an important feature of someones face however it is possible
the story, purely focusing on the name of the collection and their Brand Ambassador.
to manipulate it through these products and create the look of higher cheekbones.
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STROBING TO SCULPT & CHANGE
VISUAL MERCHANDISING Guerlain is a high end French makeup brand, which reinvents its ‘Meteorites’ collection every season. The idea of this collection was first established in 1987 but has continued ever since. The highlighting products are used to give
“all women access to a perfect complexion” with “A multi-coloured constellation that infuses the skin with ideal radiance.”(2) - GUERLAIN WEBSITE 2016 Within the UK, Guerlain has concessions in department stores such as John Lewis. This means the product is harder to get your hands on, compared to other makeup brands which are available in your local drug stores. Combine this with the premium prices, it creates an exclusive brand and product. When approaching the Guerlain counters within these stores it is a very sleek, black and white, geometric area; this contrasts with the delicate and dainty products they are promoting.
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The concession cleverly resembles the Guerlain stores in France, connoting a Parisian style. Visual merchandising ideas like this show that you are buying into a brand, especially one with such an extensive history as Guerlain. The concession subtly introduces the idea of highlighting by lots of light being produced around the area, illuminating the products. Contrastingly the architectural elements of the area have sharp edges and straight lines creating the sculpting idea which this trend aims for.
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Similarly to Guerlain, Benefit Cosmetics
There is no obvious relation to the trend or how they have interpreted it, instead they focus on their packaging. This promotes the idea of highlighting by using gold sun beams or pearlescent colours which reflect the light around the concession. Benefit focus on the consumer trends of Strobing, but also address cultural trends using social media through their hashtag. This shows how aware they are of how prominent this trend is on social media and how far this trend is spreading worldwide - especially to thier Asian customer base.
predominantly sells from concessions within UK department stores, however they do also have their own boutiques placed around London. The Benefit Cosmetics counters feature candy colours of yellow and pink. Products are placed within categories, meaning that all of their highlighting products are together in one section or shelf.
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Through the comparison of these two brands, you can see how differently they have adopted the trend through visual merchandising. Benefit have a more prominent way of merchandising their products, with crowded shelves compared to Guerlain’s counter. For benefit the focus is much more on appealing to their demographic customer and sticking to their brand identity with catchy slogans and fun descriptions and packaging, as seen in the above pictures. Guerlain have a subtle and superior way of promoting their products, relying on the products qualities to sell themselves, with the guidance of a sales assistant. The architectural elements of the concessions also divide the two brands. Guerlain create a sophisticated and Parisian area in comparison to Benefit’s vibrant and hectic stand - very similar to San Francisco where the brand is based.
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STROBING TO SCULPT & CHANGE
A CREATIVE CONTEXT Throughout
the world, artists use techniques involving lighting within their paintings to create a dramatic narrative and highlight certain points of the canvas. This technique is called Chiaroscuro, which is the strong contrast between light and dark within a painting so it effects the story being told. Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio is most famous for this technique as he uses the lighting to effect the drama within his paintings, as seen in ‘Salome receives the Head of John the Baptist’.
Caravaggio has used lighter tones within the painting to highlight the faces and therefore the personalities of the people painted, helping us unpick the story. This technique has been seen from as early as the Renaissance period, but continued to grow more popular in the Sixteenth Century with artists such as Baglioni and da Vinci.
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When looking at the context of
Highlighting as a makeup technique it’s important to note that makeup, before anything else, was used on stage. Used to manipulate faces and create different characters, it’s well known that Elizabethan actors used chalk and soot to portray themselves as different characters. Due to social standards only men were allowed to perform in theatres, making a greater need for makeup to create different looks - especially female characters. This introduces the makeup technique of highlighting to protrude cheekbones and certain features such as noses and chins. As time moved on, makeup was replaced by strategic lighting, such as candles and oil lamps, but only to aid the makeup.
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Marlene Deitrich, a German actress in the 1930’s was the most famous person to observe this. Dietrich payed close attention to the lighting around her using the spotlights to create shadows and highlights on her face, sculpting and accentuating certain features. This glamorous look became one which on screen stars were famous for, and still are today.
When technology advanced and films started emerging, so did the makeup behind it. Max Factor was the first makeup brand in 1910 to create products especially for film, they were also the first makeup brand to introduce highlighting to the film industry in the 1930’s. When on set lots of spotlights were used to create shadows and highlights, specifically on actors faces. 12
Playing around with lighting in films also transcended into music videos, where spotlights are frequently used to highlight artists faces including focusing on one particular person, such as solo artists. A classic example of this is Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody video where the four band members appear with just their faces highlighted. As the spotlight hits their face’s certain features are accentuated such as their foreheads, cheekbones and around their mouths, which then relates to the areas of our faces which we are told to highlight with makeup. We can see from this that the arts have a great influence on the 21st century makeup industry, specifically theatre and film due to the historical techniques and methods.
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STROBING TO SCULPT & CHANGE
A HISTORICAL, SOCIAL AND CULTURAL CONTEXT It is clear to see within the industry that highlighting products have been associated with Summer. For Summer 2015, Laura Mercier were promoting a number of products within their ‘Un Été A Ibiza’ collection and within this advertisement is one of their famous highlighting products called ‘Face Illuminator’ in ‘Indiscretion’. The campaign promotes a certain type of lifestyle and culture, where in order to use these products you need to be surrounded by sun and on holiday. The model is lounging near a pool in a gold swimsuit; where her hand falls on her face it draws the viewers attention to the makeup. The angle of the photograph highlights the harsh features of the models face, which are accentuated by the bronzed and highlighted makeup to address the customer and lifestyle which they wish to promote.
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Furthermore the rich colours within the photo connotes an expensive location, as well as expensive products; the colour gold emphasising this. This is a narrative used in many makeup advertisements, specifically promoting Summer collections which include highlighting and illuminating products. The narratives told through these advertisements coincide with the benefits Strobing associates itself with: a radiant complexion and healthy glow, which is also commonly obtained through holidays and tanning.
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Similarly
When the Strobing technique began, the technique was first seen through social media on Instagram, so much that the hashtag Strobing now has 101,177 hashtags on Instagram. With a following of over 56 million, Kim Kardashian instantly gave Strobing the fame which had not been known to the public up until now. Due to this, Strobing is automatically connected to the idea of glamour and celebrities.
to how the previous advertisements explore a glamorous narrative, in real life they are associated with a glamorous person who uses highlighting techniques and products. Within the past few years, social media has taken off and become the largest way we communicate with each other. Due to this, it is also the largest way brands communicate with their consumers.
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Although Strobing may seem a very
Skin colour also changes in a woman during certain stages of ovulation. Psychologist Miller found that men are more attracted to women in their highest stage of ovulation. Thus creating a clear indication that looking young and fertile affected how attractive women are seen as, even though this is an innate instinct it shows that women innately know that looking radiant and luminescent is beneficial for their survival and health.
new trend, the public’s obsession with looking radiant and young started in European Medieval times when youth and health was signified by pale, luminous skin. This idealised skin spurred on lots of treatments to obtain this look, including Psimuthion and blood-letting. This desire for younger skin came from the link between fertility and youth, as it has been proved that after a woman’s first pregnancy her skin becomes darker.
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The pearlescent colour which women aim to achieve through highlighting has been around since AD 320, where crushed pearls were used as a skin whitener. Empress Wu Zetian of China (AD 625-705), took pearl powder internally and also used pearl cream for its brightening properties, because of this her skin was rumoured ) to be “as radiant as a young womens”(3 - BENCAO GANGMU (COMPENDIUM OF MATERIA MEDICA) when she stepped down from the throne. Since then, is has been scientifically proved that pearls stimulate new skin growth and reduce age spots.
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Proving FIGURE 27
that the search for radiant skin and a brightened complexion has not yet died since the medieval times, makeup brands have continued to supply the public with radiating products and complexion brighteners such as Guerlain’s ‘Blanc de Perle’ in 1857, their Meteorites Collection since 1987, and Bourgeois ‘Java Rice Face Powder’ in 1879 promising to
“adhere to the skin, giving it a smooth freshness and youthful radiance”.(4) - (LISA ELDRIDGE 2016) From these examples its possible to see how differently Strobing can be interpreted depending on the cultural context it is presented in and also who uses it. Celebrities using this technique emphasise the glamorous side, but it is also possible to see the benefits of the technique on older skin due to its radiant effect of looking younger, hence why brands such as Guerlain who have an older demographic invest in such products.
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STROBING TO SCULPT & CHANGE
IDEA AND CONCEPT For years strobe lights have been used on photo shoots to attract attention to certain features of models and products. Inspired by this, Strobing is the makeup equivalent where we can recreate this photo shoot look in real life using certain products. Due to the trend it has been demonstrated that where you apply highlighter is the most important aspect of Strobing. If applied in the wrong place it can make the person look oily. If applied perfectly then it creates the lit from within look which everyone is aiming for.
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As everyone is aware, each individuals face shape is different, and we all have different features which change in shape and size. If everyone’s face and features are different then where we apply our highlighter should be different too - bespoke to the individual. This idea has been explored in contouring guides based upon our face shapes, however not within Strobing. The downside about this is that it presumes consumers know their face shape, but also that everyone’s face shape is the same if you fall under a particular category. It has been scientifically proven that “Men and women find traits such as...symmetry....in faces attractive”(5)(SIMMONS, RHODES, PETERS ,KOEHLER 1998) however, this also changes dependant on the culture and ethnicity of the consumer. The preferences of the customer should change the way the face is sculpted and how it is highlighted. Adapting this idea to Strobing would be a similar process but much more specific.
“BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER”
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It must also be recognised, that when in makeup stores or around concessions the lighting is very important, especially when trying makeup. In most stores fluorescent white colour bulbs are used - this means it changes the way makeup is applied; from the colour to how much. All lighting should represent natural light, described as a warm white. This is the closest to a natural light and how you would appear outside of shops, therefore creating a more natural application and end result.
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Using strobe lighting and a technique called ‘butterfly’, customers would stand in
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front of the strategically placed lights, which emit the perfect ‘natural light’. When a photo is taken, the light reflects off of the naturally accentuated features of the face.
As everyone’s features are different this would change depending on the person.
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These
portraits by Geoff Jones show the possible lighting techniques and where the light hits specific faces and features, using the butterfly lighting technique it highlights the pronounced cheekbones and nose, casting shadows on inverted features.
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My concept is to combine both of these issues and ways of fixing them to create a new self promoting way of applying the Strobing technique in-store. Imagine if your highlighting technique could be specific to your individual features and face shape, as well as how you may want to sculpt your face to create a certain look. Not only this but taking into consideration your skin type and skin colour. Talking to a Make Up Artist after having your photo taken and printed out adds the air of a premium service dedicated to the consumers needs. Here you can talk about where to apply the highlighter to get the specific look and what products to use.
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The Bespoke Sculpting Booth would be an attraction which people will want to visit in store. Thus it is already promoting itself through the buzz around it. Photos posted on social media will help promote the idea that it is revolutionising the application of Strobing. The Bespoke Sculpting Booth will become an exclusive benefit of going to a brands store or premium concession outlet such as Harrods, rather than a drug store or concession in a department store, therefore continuing the idea of a bespoke experience and process.
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REFERENCES ILLUSTRATIONS 1 (FRONT COVER). McCarthy, E. (2015) Contour counteracting: Strobing is the latest beauty trend to give you. Available at: http://www.standard.co.uk/beauty/ makeup/contour-counteracting-strobing-is-the-latest-beauty-trend-to-give-chiselledcheekbones-10241376.html (Accessed: 18 January 2016). 2. adminnlpro (no date) Random posts. Available at: http://nlpro.info/light/hanginglight-bulbs.html (Accessed: 26 January 2016). 3. S, M. (2012) February 2012 Topbox review & pictures. Available at: http://www. swatchandlearn.com/february-2012-topbox-review-pictures/ (Accessed: 21 January 2016). 4. Garcia, 3, P. 0 V., 123456789, C., sk, 2009, 123, J. and 19, D. (2015) Wake me up foundation. Available at: http://au.rimmellondon.com/products/face/wake-me-upfoundation (Accessed: 21 January 2016). 5. Own photograph, 2016, Guerlain Meteorites Display 6. Available at: http://farm5.static.guerlain.com/sites/default/files/styles/creator_ slide_image/public/1436x694_visuel06.jpg?itok=XLeYzXX9 (Accessed: 07 January 2016). 7. 68 Champs-ElysĂŠes & the boutique feel (2015) Available at: http://www.guerlain. com/int/en-int/guerlain-explorer/68-champs-elysees-boutique-feel (Accessed: 07 January 2016). 8. Benefit logo pink (2014) Available at: https://ilovebdj.com/?attachment_id=10583 (Accessed: 25 January 2016). 9. Own photograph, 2016, Benefit Cosmetics Counter John Lewis 10. Own photograph, 2016, Benefit Cosmetics Highlighter Section Sephora 11. Own photograph, 2016, Benefit Cosmetics #STROBING 12. Salome receives the head of john the Baptist1607-10, Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (no date) Available at: http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/ michelangelo-merisi-da-caravaggio-salome-receives-the-head-of-john-the-baptist (Accessed: 31 December 2015). 13. League, T. B. (no date) IBDB.com. Available at: http://www.ibdb.com/ Production/View/494842# (Accessed: 31 December 2015). 14. Marlene Dietrich-Annex (no date) Available at: (no date) Available at: http:// www.doctormacro.com/Images/Dietrich,%20Marlene/Annex/Annex%20-%20 Dietrich,%20Marlene%20(Angel)_02.jpg (Accessed: 31 December 2015).
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15. Savage, M. (2015) Brian May on 40 years of bohemian rhapsody: ‘I still listen to it in the car’. Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-34651067 (Accessed: 31 December 2015) 16.Summer In Ibiza (2015) Available at: http://www.sunshinekelly.com/2015/06/ summer-in-ibiza.html (Accessed: 03 January 2016). 17. Summer In Ibiza (2105) Available at: http://www.sunshinekelly.com/2015/06/ summer-in-ibiza.html (Accessed: 03 January 2016). 18. Lancome french Riviera summer 2014 makeup collection (2014) Available at: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/lancome-summer-2014-french-riviera-makeupcollection/ (Accessed: 03 January 2016) 19. CHANEL Summer 2015 make up collection (Chanel Beauty) (2015) Available at: http://models.com/work/chanel-beauty-chanel-summer-2015-make-up-collection (Accessed: 03 January 2016). 20. TOM FORD - Daphne Groeneveld Pouts in new Tom Ford beauty ads (2015) Available at: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/daphne-groeneveld-tom-fordbeauty-2015-ad-campaign/ (Accessed: 03 January 2016) 21. Own photograph, 2016, Instagram Screen Shot #Strobing 22. Elliott, A. F. (2015) The end of contouring? Make-up artist explains how to start STROBING. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3128201/Theend-contouring-Make-craze-STROBING-sees-highlighter-added-luminous-glow-KimKardashian-s-sculpted-look.html (Accessed: 04 January 2016). 23. MET gala 2015: Beyoncé, centro de todas las miradas (2015) Available at: http:// www.diariofemenino.com/fotos/actualidad/met-gala-2015-beyonce-centro-de-todaslas-miradas/ (Accessed: 04 January 2016). 24. @gigihadid, (2015), Instagram, Instagram (Accessed: 04 January 2016) 25.New make up trend - Strobing - 2015 (2015) Available at: http:// thedawnofinspiration.com/2015/07/13/new-make-up-trend-strobing-2015/ (Accessed: 04 January 2016). 26. COOPERATIVE PARTNER (2015) Available at: http://www.thechinabox.info/ chinese-costume-dramas-good-looking-but-hard-to-make.html (Accessed: 05 January 2016). 27. Java rice powder (no date) Available at: http://www.bourjois.co.uk/catalog/make_ up/complexion/powder/java_rice_powder (Accessed: 05 January 2016) 28. Horak, Y. and profile, V. my complete (2011) Search the Bloomin’ couch. Available at: http://thebloomincouch.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/corrective-contouring-and-plainold.html (Accessed: 04 January 2016)
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29. Long John (no date) Available at: http://www.rubn.se/lighting/long-john (Accessed: 04 January 2016). 30. StudioL (2005) Paramount (butterfly) lighting – studio lighting setup. Available at: http://www.studiolighting.net/paramount-butterfly-lighting-studio-lighting-setup (Accessed: 04 January 2016). 31. Beauty (no date) Available at: http://www.threevisual.com.au/beauty/ (Accessed: 04 January 2016). 32. Beauty (no date) Available at: http://www.threevisual.com.au/beauty/ (Accessed: 04 January 2016). 33. Beauty (no date) Available at: http://www.threevisual.com.au/beauty/ (Accessed: 04 January 2016). 34. Own Diagram, 2016, Diagram of Strobing Booth Concept Layout
REFERENCES
1. News (2015) Available at: https://www.npdgroup.co.uk/wps/portal/npd/ uk/news/press-releases/strobing-and-selfies-drive-growth-in-prestige-make-up/ (Accessed: 16 December 2015). 2. Météorites, Guerlain make-up icons, make-up (2015) Available at: http://www. guerlain.com/uk/en-uk/makeup/guerlain-make-icons/meteorites (Accessed: 07 January 2016). 3. Eldridge, L. (2015) Face paint: The story of makeup. United States: Harry N. Abrams. pg 46 (Accessed 05 January 2016). 4. Eldridge, L. (2015) Face paint: The story of makeup. United States: Harry N. Abrams. pg 187 (Accessed 05 January 2016). 5. Rhodes G., Proffitt F., Grady J., Sumich A. 1998. Facial symmetry and the perception of beauty. Psychonom. Bull. Rev. 5, 659–669 (Accessed 21 January 2016)
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