TR EN D
AuTUMN WINTER 17.18
As Autumn Winter 2017/18 approaches, the consumer faces wider problems than they may be used to. The influence of politics, environmental and encomical issues have forced the consumer into thinking logically rather than frivolously, making informed choices about their daily lives and the impact it will have on the future.This is reflected through the trends we are expecting consumers to adapt via product groups, prints and visual merchandising. All of these elements will be seen as a subconscious comforter when we need one the most.
CONTENTS
MENSWEAR FUTURE FLASHBACK PRACTICAL AESTHETICS BLURRED TIME
PRINT AND GRAPHIC REGAL ROMANCE UNDERGROUND CRAFT TWISTED DISGUISE
VISUAL AND INSTORE DARK HAVEN SALVAGED BEAUTY GREEN FRONTIER
MENSWEAR
FUTURE FLASHBACK PRACTICAL AESTHETICS BLURRED TIME
KENZO,1970
PRADA, AW17
FUTUR E FL ASHBACK
Becoming more aware of our way living has implanted ideals where consumers are evaluating carefully what we need to take into the future; instead of new designs expect designers to be revisiting the classics with a modern twist. Throughout the past two seasons the consumer has been submerged into a time capsule delving through iconic fashion eras, which has prepared the to embrace a new era - for AW17 this is the 1970’s. Fashion evolution has allowed for minimalist designs to be combined with maximalist style. Early Adopters are expected to take a directional approach to this trend, purchasing key items such as the trench coat and shirt with extravagant twists focusing on colour and fabric. DRIES VAN NOTEN, AW17
Future Flashback has been brought into the consumers lives exterior to fashion with new tv series such as This Is Us on Channel 4 and The Get Down on Netflixboth set in the 1970’s. Cultural elements of the 1970’s have overwhelmed the consumer and allowed them to embrace all elements of the 70’s with a futuristic outlook. The economical and political turbulence of Britain in the 1970’s is being mirrored today in the United States, reminiscent of the British economic crisis and Thatcherism. Fashion was used as a form of escapism in the 70’s and this flamboyant style will be evident within Future Flashback in AW17.
GUCCI, SS16
HUGO BOSS, AW17
GET DOWN
SUNGLOW
EMBRACE FOLIAGE
FLASHBACK
PENNY MILK INFERNO
PRADA BACKSTAGE, AW17
ADIDAS X STONE ISLAND, AW16
SACAI AW17
PRACT ICAL AESTHETICS
Menswear is tapping into the wilder side, connecting with nature via outerwear enabling the consumers the means to explore outside while still maintaining their status within the fashion jungle. Thought processes are being driven towards enabling a first hand connection with nature, designers are taking this opportunity to use collaborative forces combining forward-thinking designs with practical features from expertise outerwear brands, such as North Face and Patagonia. Practical aesthetics offer the consumer a 2-in-1 product meaning they can wear their outerwear to London or The Peak District, without needing a plethora of outerwear options.
CP COMPANY
Paying attention to detail is the key for Practical Forces. Focus is centered on taping, functional pockets and hoods to protect from Autumnal showers and strong winds heading into Winter. Bright colours mixed with a natural palette allow for consumers to stand out in the crowd with no fear of being impractical. The principal driver of this trend is cult brand Stone Island who have been combining revolutionary outerwear with sleek designs and seasonal colours for over 20 years. With a premium price point, the Italian brands USP has been adopted by more easily accessible brands for the Early and Late Majority such as Adidas.
DIM MAK, AW17
JUNYA WATANABE , AW17
FEAR
HILL TOP
ADRENALINE
REACH EMPTY
PEAK
ESCAPE
WOLFSKIN TECH LAB
PER GOTESSON , AW17
GUCCI SS16
BLURR ED T IME
Blurred Time explores the reappropriation of nightwear as daywear. Pyjama suits being worn as formal wear has been evident in womenswear over the past few seasons, however for AW17 this is translating over to menswear. Made commercial by Coco Chanel in the 1920’s, the silk set was sold as an alternative to the classic nightgown for women. Before Chanel, the pyjama suit had been worn by men since the 1890’s. Silk pyjamas would be worn in a dark muted colour palette, often accompanied by a smoking robe, as seen in period dramas such as ‘Downton Abbey’ and more recently, the 2017 adaption of ‘Beauty and The Beast’.
KATIE EARY, AW17
Designers are expected to explore Blurred Time through silk two pieces in jewel tones, often with contrasting piped seams to draw attention to detail - again contributing to the goal of opulence. Brands should focus on attacking the heterophilous consumers, who are more likely to accept the reappropriation of night wear and seamlessly incorporate it into their wardrobe. Design houses who favour of decadence will opt for a directional twist and incorporate bold prints inspired by victorians and the print trend of Regal Romance.
GIVENCHY AW16
CAVALLI ,AW16
TEDDY
INSOMNIA
NIGHTCAP ALARM
COCO
BEAUTY JET
STATELY
MADAME_DE_POMPADOUR / FRANÇOIS_BOUCHER 1756
REGAL ROMANCE UNDERGROUND CRAFT TWISTED DISGUISE
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, AW17
BEAU BRUMMEL BY PAUL RAINER
r ega l ro m a nce
Regal Romance is a quintessential trend in menswear, originating in formal wear we expect creatives, stylists and designers as the Early Majority to transform the print into daywear. With the help of Fashion Week in Milan, indisputably the home of decadence, this trend is expected to spread with ease to other major cities, trend setters and eventually high street stores. Prints are being used to emphasise security and wealth for AW17. Reminiscent of William Morris inspired prints and decadent Victoriana ball gowns designers are expected to use rich and plush fabrics combined with brocade prints to create a regal and dandy aesthetic.
DOLCE AND GABBANA, AW17
The style emanated from the Italian Renaissance, where brocade of gold or silver with paisley prints symbolised luxury and extravagance. Exhibited on Italian brands such as Dolce and Gabbana, as well as English Alexander Mcqueen, Regal Romance is associated with heritage and the price tag attached, justified through fabric and embellishment, where the boastful exhibition of wealth is never a second thought.
GRACE WALES BONNER, AW17
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, AW17
JACK BLACK
DUOMO
LORD
MEDALLION MARIGOLD
KNIGHTHOOD
HOMEGROWN
WILLIAM MORRIS SNAKESHEAD, 1876
HENRIK VIBSKOV, AW17
DIOR HOMME, AW17
UNDERGROUND
CRAF T
Escape and rewind to 90’s youth rave culture and reminisce with bold graphic prints on knitwear. Often forgotten about, the 1990’s underground clubs were the life and heart of major cities, where youths would disappear until dawn. Surrounded by bright laser lights, pounding speakers and drug induced crowds, the 90’s is the perfect era to revisit when the consumer needs a reminder of how vibrant life can be. Bringing club life into daywear, Underground Craft has a handmade aesthetic with sharp pops of colour and high levels of contrast. Pull out nostalgic old photos for inspiration but bring it into the 21st century with a visually stimulating futuristic twist.
RAF SIMONS, AW17
Key trend leaders for Underground Craft are French fashion houses such as Dior Homme and Raf Simons, where bright graphic prints with slogans are key. Additonally the trend has been seen in smaller more adventurous designers such as Bobby Abley where the 90’s theme was evident throughout the AW show. With print drawing the main attention, the knit of the jumper has no specification, however to indulge the consumer in more 1990’s fashion, the style should be a baggy and a fine gauge knit to intensify the colours and overall effect of the print.
ELAINE CONSTANTINE, 1996
BOBBY ABLEY, AW17
clueless GARLANDS aladdin CREAM
pulp FABRIC
GOodfella
VALENTINO, AW17
LIAM HODGES , AW17
DSQUARED2 , AW17
TWISTED DISGUISE
AW17 has called for a subtle progression from the classic camouflage print that has been exhausted over the past few seasons. Inspired by geological textures and patterns such as rocks, bark and leaves, the term camouflage has been reinvented. For AW17 the prints are becoming more inline with the hobbies and adventures consumers spend their time doing. As the consumer becomes more adventurous in how far they reach out to nature, the print evolves with them. Dark tonal colours revolving around an earthy colour palette are contrasted with small pops of golden tones that reflect natural ochre, reminiscent of autumn leaves and wood chips.
YOGHI YAMAMOTO, AW17
Intensify the camouflage effect with print layering, as seen in Ximon Lee and Songzio, the same print can be used to create a head to toe look. Instead the consumer can take inspiration from Yoghi Yamamoto with clashing prints in similar tonal colours. This aspect of Twisted Disguise is expected to be adopted by the Innovators only, with the trend filtering down to the Early and Late Majority with one or two items becoming part of a whole outfit.
XIMON LEE, AW17
SONGZIO, AW17
mulch
evergreen
dune
swamp
mole
rocky
artichoke
BECKY TURL, WGSN
INSTORE
DARK HAVEN SALVAGED BEAUTY GREEN FRONTIER
DIMORE STUDIO - FENDI 2017
LARSEN, 2017
DARK HAVEN
Take a turn to the dark side with in store aesthetics for AW17. With increasing worry about worldwide economy and politics, individuals are learning to unite in unsurity. Dark Haven provides a nesting and secure environment for the consumer to enter. Comfort and reassurance is exhibited through darkly hued walls oozing luxury and quality, creating a false sense of security. The interior will become a sanctuary where the consumer does not have to face the realities of what 2017/18 will endure. Rich colours will radiate a soft warmth through muted and matte finishes, so interiors become easy on the eyes and easily translated into soft furnishings and decorations.
MAISON DU DANEMARK - GAMFRATESI, 2017
The Stockholm Furniture Fair has exhibited vast inspiration for this trend with interior companies following suit, such as Clarke + Clarke and Larsen. For shop interiors this can be adopted easily with a feature wall or changing rooms. For consumers, the trend is seen as daring and daunting to implement within the home, however Dark Haven is the perfect trend to be implanted in dining rooms or ‘snugs’. The dark walls and comforting atmosphere can be used to its advantage complimented with fabrics such as velvet, satin and chunky aran knit throws.
CLARKE AND CLARKE 2017
THAM + VIDEGARD, 2017
ARTIFICAL
TWISTED
WASTED
SPRUCE
BOMBSHELL
LOTTA AGATON AW17 STOCKHOLM FURNITURE FAIR
MARJAN VAN AUBEL
WOO JAI LEE
SALVAGED BE AUTY
The consumer will be demanding sustainably sourced products for 2017, whether this be through food, fashion or interiors. Bringing increased awareness to a sustainable life has induced a worldwide craze creating a much needed change in the way we live. In-store trends will adapt this through the motto that products are for life, not just a season. AW17 steps away from previously sustainable basics such as bare brick walls and exposed lighting to create interior furnishings that are permanent and beautiful.
MAGNUS PETTERSON
Creating fluid sculptures are key, with soft edges and flowing lines releasing the harsh connotations associated with sustainability. Salvaged Beauty should look easy on the eyes and transferable into consumers homes as they are inspired by adopters. Using hardwearing materials such as concrete, marble and granite, designers will remould and transform sustainability into a sophisticated art form.A key example of this is Damien Hirsts ‘Treasures From the Wreck of the Unbelievable’, where the rocky formation has been reconstructed into a Mickey Mouse look-alike salvaged from the bottom of the ocean.
ZAHA HADID
HUN CHUNG LEE
UTILITY barely there INK WASH
LILAC ASH
CYPRIAN TILE
DERELICT
DAMIEN HIRST 'TREASURES FROM THE WRECK OF THE UNBELIEVABLE'
STEFANO BOERI - NANJING VERTICAL TOWERS
FOREST ON THE ROOF, SELFRIDGES
GR EEN FRONT IER
Nature is making a move inside for AW17 with a focus on mass plantation and embracing nature to become more connected with the earth. Over the past decade consumers have become engrossed with consistent new technological advances throughout different sectors of life, however AW17 calls for a change. Embracing natural beauty to create an immersive environment is a key element of Green Frontier. Brands and consumers will explore this through store architecture and design of interiors. Taking inspiration from architects such as Patrik Blanc who brings nature into the city, constructing walls of plants from floor to ceiling creates an interior jungle.
SEEK TRADE SHOW, BERLIN 2017
Stray away from tropical plants and opt for Perennial and Evergreen plants that bloom during warmer months and require more attention and care for best results. Early Majority adopters are due to become increasingly aware that technology could cause more harm than good, with growing scares of robots and loss of jobs. Inviting nature inside acts as a replacement so consumers have nature at their fingertips instead of technology. Examples of this have been seen in the 2017 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge where rooms and public areas are filled with mass plantations specifically on walls to create a draping, overflowing effect. MATCHES SHOWROOM NEW YORK
APPLE STORE, FOSTER + PARTNETS
URBAN OASIS WILD
STUMP
WILLOW
SESSILE
PALM NIGHT
1 HOTEL BROOKLYN BRIDGE
TR
END
illustrations
KENZO 1970, 50 fashion looks that changed the 70s PRADA AW17, http://www.vogue.it/en/uomo-vogue/shows/show/prada DRIES VAN NOTEN AW17, http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/dries-van-noten GUCCI SS16, http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/gucci/slideshow/collection#9 HUGO BOSS AW17, http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/boss-aw17-mens-review-pictures PRADA BACKSTAGE AW17, http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/23239/30/prada-aw17 ADIDAS X STONE ISLAND 2016, https://i-d.vice.com/fr/article/collaboration-nikelab-stone-island SACAI AW17, http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/23280/13/sacai-aw17 CP COMPANY, Berlin Fashion Week Magazine 23, page 40 DIM MAK AW17, WGSN Key Items A/W 17/18: Jackets & Outerwear, Nick Paget / 02.15.17 JUNYA WATANABE, http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/junya-watanabe/slideshow/collection#11 WOLFSKIN TECH LAB, Berlin Fashion Week Magazine 23, page 48 PER GOTESSON AW17, http://www.londonfashionweekmens.com/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=2936 GUCCI SS16, http://ftape.com/media/gucci-menswear-ss16/ KATIE EARY AW17, http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/shows/autumnwinter-2017-menswear/katie-eary GIVENCHY AW16, http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/givenchy/slideshow/collection#18 CAVALLI AW16, http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/roberto-cavalli/slideshow/collection#27 MADAME DE POMPADOUR BY FRANÇOIS BOUCHER 1756, https://www.pinakothek.de/besuch/altepinakothek ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AW17, http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/gallery/alexander-mcqueen-menswear-aw17 BEAU BRUMMEL BY PAUL RAINER, https://www.mjbale.com/style/Beau-Tie--The-Legacy-of-Beau-Brummell--Inventor-of-the-Modern-Suit.html DOLCE AND GABBANA AW17, http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/dolce-gabbana GRACE WALES BONNER AW17, http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/23200/3/grace-wales-bonner-aw17 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AW17, http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/gallery/alexander-mcqueen-menswear-aw17 WILLIAM MORRIS SNAKESHEAD 1876, https://www.william-morris.co.uk/search/?keywords=SNAKESHEAD&page=&brand=&SelectedColours=&SelectedProductGroups=&answerHandle=&searchHandle=&searchTerm=&LastSearchPage=&SortBy=default&layoutOption=grid&searchHandle=&searchTerms= HENRIK VIBSKOV AW17, WGSN Key Trends A/W 17/18: Denim Samuel Trotman / 02.13.17 DIOR HOMME AW17, WGSN Key Details & Materials A/W 17/18: Stitch & Pattern Charlotte Casey, Douglas Gilbey / 02.21.17 RAF SIMONS AW17, WGSN Best of New York A/W 17/18 Collections, the WGSN Menswear Team / 02.03.17 VALENTINO AW17, http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/valentino/slideshow/collection#26 ELAINE CONSTANTINE 1996, W’HAPPEN, JASON EVANS, 1998, Shoreditch Biennale BOBBY ABLEY AW17, http://notionmagazine.com/bobby-abley-power-rangers-assemble-lfwm/ LIAM HODGES AW17, http://notionmagazine.com/liam-hodges-aw17-mens/ DSQUARED2, WGSN Key Trends A/W 17/18: Global Explorers,Volker Ketteniss, Jian DeLeon / 02.14.17 YOGHI YAMAMOTO, WGSN Key Trends A/W 17/18: Global Explorers,Volker Ketteniss, Jian DeLeon / 02.14.17 XIMON LEE, WGSN Natural Camo, Isabel Wharton / 01.10.17 SONGZIO AW17, http://www.londonfashionweekmens.com/designers_profile.aspx?designerID=2926 BECKY TURL, WGSN Men’s Prints & Graphics A/W 17/18: Designed By Nature – Earthed, Hannah Watkins / 02.24.16
DIMORE STUDIO - FENDI 2017, ELLE DECOR APRIL 2017 LARSEN 2017, ELLE DECORATION APRIL 2017 Maison du Danemark GAMFRATESI 2017 https://www.dezeen.com/2017/02/10/gamfratesi-creates-furniture-and-interiors-for-maison-du-danemark-paris-design/ CLARKE AND CLARKE 2017, ELLE DECORATION APRIL 2017 THAM AND VIDEGARD 2017, DEZEEN https://www.dezeen.com/2017/02/14/dark-interiors-take-over-responsedarker-times-stockholm-furniture-fair-2017-lotta-agaton/ LOTTA AGATON AW17 STOCKHOLM FURNITURE FAIR, DEZEEN https://www.dezeen.com/2017/02/14/ dark-interiors-take-over-response-darker-times-stockholm-furniture-fair-2017-lotta-agaton/ MARJAN VAN AUBEL WGSN,Visual Merchandising Forecast A/W 17/18: Design Matters Claire Dickinson / 11.22.16 WOO JAI LEE, http://www.woojai.com/paperbricks_pallet.html MAGNUS PETTERSON WGSN,Visual Merchandising Forecast A/W 17/18: Design Matters Claire Dickinson / 11.22.16 ZAHA HADID https://www.dezeen.com/2015/04/21/zaha-hadid-marble-tau-vases-quad-tables-citco-milan-2015/ HUN CHUNG LEE WGSN,Visual Merchandising Forecast A/W 17/18: Design Matters Claire Dickinson / 11.22.16 DAMIEN HIRST ‘TREASURES FROM THE WRECK OF THE UNBELIEVABLE’,INSTAGRAM @ALEXANDERFURY (9/4/17) STEFANO BOERI, nanjing vertical towers https://www.stefanoboeriarchitetti.net/en/portfolios/nanjing-towers/ FOREST ON THE ROOF, SELFRIDGES, OWN PHOTO SEEK TRADE SHOW BERLIN 2017, OWN PHOTO MATCHES SHOW ROOM NEW YORK, INSTAGRAM @WEWOREWHAT (5/4/17) APPLE STORE, FOSTER + PARTNERS, http://www.fosterandpartners.com/news/archive/2016/10/reimagined-apple-regent-street-opens-in-london/ 1 HOTEL BROOKLYN BRIDGE, https://www.1hotels.com/brooklyn-bridge
ELLA RICHARDS N0557502