To the consumer, Ted Baker isn’t just a brand, it’s a
• Laura is a 31-year-old working professional, living in the outskirts of Leeds. Laura has been a consumer of Ted
lifestyle with a unique, quirky twist. Some consumers use
Baker since securing her first full-time position after graduating University 9 years ago.
the brand as a trade-up; they don’t buy into the brand as
• She buys 65% of her wardrobe from Ted Baker, and spends on average £450-600 a month on Ted Baker
often as they would desire, but do for special occasions. A
products. She loves to be experimental with their range of products, with key focus on silhouettes and distinctive
range of consumers also buy into the brand at a lower
prints. Laura commented that she loved the undeniable quality of every product, which is what makes Ted Baker
price point, such as the plastic icon bags. They desire to
more desirable to her than its competitors. Although product is key to her, Laura also buys into the brand because
be a part of the brand, but wouldn’t consider using Ted
of the store experience. Unique products offering and customer service is a large desirable aspect of the brand.
Baker regularly due to being a more risk averse consumer,
• Ted Baker wouldn‘t be Laura’s first choice for lingerie or pyjamas, as this isn’t what Ted Baker ‘is’. She loves that
with a lower disposable income. Secondary research into
the brand knows who its customers are, and what they desire by not offering products to simply increase revenue.
the company, enabled me to understand the ‘typical’ Ted
• Laura loves that her friends can instantly notice that her clothes are ‘Ted’, which is also why she continues to buy
Baker womenswear consumer would be within
into the brand. Her choice of product is influenced by the attention to detail, such as a printed lining on
a 26-48 demographic, successful and career
a simple jacket, which makes her feel special when wearing the product, as well as adding a sense of
driven with a high disposable income. She
luxury. The simplistic product ranges that aren’t so ‘Ted’ distinctive allow Laura to represent a different
would also be someone who takes pride in her
side to her personality and reflect her mood, and also experiment with styles.
appearance, and finds shopping for products a
• She often looks for the more classic silhouettes of products that she bought the year before to see
fun, exciting experience. Primary research
how Ted Baker have developed it to fit with current trends. For the previous 3 seasons, Laura has begun
involved interviewing a consumer of Ted Baker
buying into more experimental product ranges, to ensure she remains an early adopter of fashion.
and generating a consumer profile of her,
• In terms of style and silhouette, Laura loves that one day she can purchase a product reflecting Kate
learning her buying behaviour and important
Middleton’s style, as well as find a product reflecting the style of Rita Ora; yet the products still maintain
factors to her.
elegance and femininity and the brands persona.
AW15/16 Knitwear (Jumpers)
This comparative shop report was carried out in Leeds City Centre, between Wednesday 4th and Friday 6th of November 2015. This was to ensure great understanding of how Ted Baker and 3 of their competitors utilised their product within a store environment and how the products were visually merchandised. This information, along with detailed product information enabled a successful and reliable comparative shop, with analysis highlighting areas of success and possible development for Ted Baker’s AW16/17 product range. Ted$Baker$ £179 • 100% Cashmere • Cool handwash at 30°c • Ribbed finish at neck, cuffs and hem • Available in Cream and Blue • Merchandised in store on a mannequin as a layering garment for casual outfit styling
Reiss$ £145 • 40% Nylon, 30% Mohair, 30% Acrylic • Handwash only • Loose fit and unique open weave style, with small front pockets • Available in Black and Grey • Casual styling; placed on the front store fixture
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Karen$Millen$ £115 • 28% Viscose, 25% Cotton, 24% Polyester, 19% Wool, 3% Cashmere, 1% Elastane • Handwash only • Cowl-neck jumper with hand-plaited cable detailing on front and shoulders • Available in Cream only • Unique development of the traditional cable knit jumper
Key shoulder detail
Paul$Smith$ £160 • 100% Merino Wool • Handwash only • Ribbed roll-neck design • Available in Cream and Black • Fitted silhouette • Panels added on the shoulder add a unique element, with a contrasting fabric
AW15/16 Midi Skirts
All styles of knitwear jumpers chosen have a similar neckline; Ted Baker’s design features a roll-neck style, whereas Karen Millen has a cowl-neck shape. This style of neck is very versatile option, as it can be dressed up formally, or worn as part of a casually styled outfit. Ted Baker’s knitwear jumper has a fabric content of 100% cashmere meaning undeniable comfort, as well as being very lightweight and having a high-quality appearance, reflected in the cost. However, for the RRP, the fashionability and innovation could be seen as imbalanced as it cannot compete with the styles exampled by Reiss and Karen Millen, although their fabric quality isn’t comparable to Ted Baker’s product. Paul Smith’s product fibre content is also 100% natural fibres, meaning a soft, lightweight and comfortable touch. This could be a cheaper alternative for Ted Baker to use, as opposed to 100% cashmere; retailing at £19 cheaper. Karen Millen’s product offering especially portrays a well designed and highly desirable knitwear product, with the distinctive cable detailing. The relaxed, loose fitting style of Reiss’ product is a design feature that would be age-appropriate for consumers who are conscious of their figure; as opposed to Karen Millen and Ted Bakers knitwear jumpers that feature a shorter length, and fitted silhouette. However, consumers wouldn’t be as limited in terms of end uses wearing these products, whereas the open weave style isn’t appropriate to be worn within the work environment, so reduces the number of styling options. Each product has a low serviceability due to it being handwash mainly because of the fabric content; therefore, it is vital to consider whether quality of product is more valued to the consumer or the level of its serviceability. A balance between these two factors and what influences them, would be something for Ted Baker to consider. Paul Smith’s subtle shoulder design adds a unique, yet elegant feature to the product. The textured fabric used to create the panels, adds a striking contrast to the lightweight wool. It creates a USP for the product, making it more desirable to consumers as it adds an edgy element; different to Ted Baker’s very simplistic design.
Ted$Baker$ £179 • Shell: 100% Polyester Lining: 95% Polyester, 5% Elastane • Handwash or dry clean only • Digital floral print, with gathered detail at waist • Frosted blue colour palette with semi-sheer overlay influences winter connotations
Reiss$ £125 • Shell: 100% Polyester Lining: 100% Polyester • Dry clean only • Pleated skirt, with raised triangular detailing • Sheer checked print on fabric adds an element of femininity • Merchandised with lace tee in the same hue to contrast textures
Karen$Millen$ £160 • Shell: 100% Polyester Lining: 100% Polyester • Dry clean only • Matching top available • Scattered floral embroidery on the shell of the product extends past the lining adding a sense of delicacy • Extremely good use of colour palette
Paul$Smith$ £255 • Shell: 100% Silk Lining: 57% Acetate 43% Cotton • Dry clean only • Concealed zip fastening • Large pleats feature on the centre of the skirt • Vibrant solid orange colour, with lilac placement floral print
The colour palettes of these 3 skirts is very diverse, indicating how each brand has implemented a particular trend in different way. It is clear Paul Smith have used the current AW15/16 70s trend as the influence for the design of this skirt. The choice of the vibrant orange shade, although being ‘on-trend’, isn’t reflective of how consumers envisage Autumn/Winter colour palettes. Whereas, Karen Millen have diluted the 70s trend, and incorporated the vibrant orange shade, in a subtle yet very effective way; making the product look more luxurious. The silhouette is also extremely dated; by only adding pleats to the centre of the skirt, it doesn’t create volume, especially with the use of 100% silk for the shell, as well enhancing the width of the hip which is something the target market may not desire. The midi-skirt by Paul Smith was the only style available in store that was mid-length; highlighting an area of competitive advantage for Ted Baker going forwards. Although analysis is based on the 3 skirts; it is important to bring to light the price of Ted Baker’s knitwear jumper and skirt being the same. The fabric content isn’t as high, with a 100% polyester shell as opposed to 100% cashmere, therefore it raises question as to whether the quality and design is reflective of the RRP, and whether consumers would find this appropriate. However, the digital print on the semi-sheer overlay is very on-trend for Autumn/Winter signifying a crispy and frosty winter atmosphere. Both Reiss and Karen Millen’s have identical fabric content, yet there is a pricing different of £35. However, Karen Millen can justify their higher pricing with the evident attention to detail and intricate embellishment. By having a matching top available, it creates versatile dress alternatives. All 3 skirts have a shorter lining than the skirt length, creating a beautiful transparent effect, which also adds an element of femininity. Reiss have also used an effect design feature, which is a simple triangular texture, which creates a subtle and elegant style. A concealed zip fastening has been used for all products; this is the most reliable fastening, as well adding quality, as opposed to buttons which can fragment a products design, silhouette and structure.
Jenny Packham’s SS16 collection examples how classic silhouettes can be developed, in an innovative and influential way. As a designer, Jenny Packham is known for her strict geometric silhouettes; however, SS16 has seen her indulge in a development of these with the use of relaxed tailoring, and less structured silhouettes. The use of long puffball arms adds elegance to a simple jumpsuit silhouette, demonstrating a fresh, new design feature to be taken forward to AW16/17. The over-sized sleeve design is reflected in the wide leg, complimenting the overall styling, and reinforcing the effectiveness of less structured garments. Usually over-sized silhouettes wouldn’t be envisaged as desirable, and femininity can be lost in a collection featuring many over-sized styles, however Jenny Packham has utilised sheer fabrics and how cut-out design features to characterise delicate, high quality and feminine garments. Ted Baker could develop the idea that femininity isn’t just reflected in fitted silhouettes, allowing them to redefine their unique brand image. It is evident she has taken influence from her ‘day-to-evening wear’ style, which is something for Ted Baker to consider, which would fit the lifestyle of their consumer. The development of separate products, such as a top and skirt in replacement of a dress, allows for more outfit building within a collection, and for the consumer to be experimental with styling.
Fabric is a key element of any product: it is the fabric that enhances silhouette, quality, texture as well as the translation of design to tangible garment. Denim has been featured within a range of designers SS16 catwalk collections, such as Alexander McQueen and Roberto Cavalli. These designers have used denim for garments that aren’t traditionally known to be manufactured using this fabric. Although denim is a sturdy fabric, not commonly used for delicate and lightweight garment, they have demonstrated the use of the fabric in an innovative way, such as a long trench coat. Alexander McQueen have added embroidery to their product, which is visually enhanced by the use of denim, as it wouldn’t create the same effect if a wool blend was used to produce the coat. The two designers have demonstrated how experimenting with fabrics can be very successful and effective, despite what the fabrics are typically used for. This leads to a range of considerations for how Ted Baker can utilise this information, such as conside considering using fabrics such as wool to produce trousers. Ted Baker launched abrasion jeans within their SS15 product range, therefore they know this fabric is something which consumers are willing to experiment with. Considering the use of fabrics such as denim for a range of garments, would fit in with the brand persona of Ted Baker being quirky and ‘no ordinary designer label’.
SS15 prints take inspiration from the WGSN trend ‘Graceful’, which forcasted stencil-effect prints. This was reflected in Umas SS16 RTW collection, which captured the heartfelt simplicity of this trend. The delicate print, contrasted with the textured fabric adds a gentle feel to a tailored outfit. WGSN also prdicted softly cut abstract prints, submerged in a dreamy pastel palette; Chalayan demonstrated the use of abstract diffused and dispersed print . Ted Baker already used floral prints successfully within a range of products, however they can interperet these print ideas by developing the soft pastel colour palette seen in SS16 cawalk collections, and instead use contrasting colours onto sheer fabrics to create a ghosted effect collection to fit with AW16/17 ‘Elemental’ trend.
Ted Baker’s status as a British heritage brand, makes it is important for them to consider vintage inspirations; in particular, the 1960’s and their collar details. Collars were dominant throughout the 1960’s, especially to enhance the silhouette of a garment. The exaggerated shape compliments over-sized silhouettes, especially with the use of heavy fabrics such as wool. The collar details weren’t used for functionality, but instead they were used for decoration. The use of large, exaggerated collars creates a bold statement and is visually very desirable, and was used to make women’s figures appear smaller. Ted Baker are known for their classic silhouettes, which would compliment the large collar design. It is important that Ted Baker are fashion forward, and don’t incorporate dated or undesirable Metallics were dominant throughout a range of SS16 elements to its products, but this collar design is something to consider as it is traditional, but very unique. In contrast to the peterpan collections. The use of mirror metallic finishes, and iridescent collar, which is a very common collar design seen in both designer brands and high street retailers and something not seen as innovative. fabrics adds depth and texture, as demonstrated by Iris van Herpen’s SS16 collection. Designers have utilised metallics to With the information gathered from completion of this directional shop, and contrast against prints on garments, adding quality and consideration of how the brand could use the findings as a point of desirability, and a fresh sense of opulence to collections. When development, it is important to understand how they could be taken forward over-used or added without consideration of other design in terms of trend and to ensure it isn’t misinterpreted by suggestions of elements, metallics can add a cheapness to a product, element innovative direction for Ted Baker. Through the use of unique, contrasting delivering the trend incorrectly to consumers. As Ted Bakers fabrics and relaxed silhouettes complimented with diffused prints and subtle consumers are quite risk averse, use of metallics could be use of metallics Ted Baker can design a range relative to the trend Elemental, diluted and incorporated into patterns or on small features of a yet still keeping their consumer in mind. Yet the innovative vintage influence products for example, suiting their experimental wardrobe and experimenting silhouettes could attract more fashion forward consumers. choices, but not using metallics as a products main colour.
Research suggests the use of over-sized and slouched silhouettes throughout the developed range. These particular silhouettes are directly reflected from the trend ‘Elemental’ and don’t require dilution, as it isn’t a dominant element nor too innovative for the consumer. Ted Baker’s consumers are very experimental with their wardrobe therefore these silhouettes will be something they’re willing to try; it will also encourage early adopting, fashion-forward consumers to connect with Ted Baker, due to the silhouettes directly reflecting the initial trend.
The 1960’s influence, identified within the directional shop, featured large and exaggerated collar structures, which will be taken forward for AW16/17. Vintage influence will also maintain Ted Baker’s British heritage status, whilst growing and adopting more fashion-forward trends. The large collar fashiondetail will be constructed using napped fabric to create contrasted texture: key for ‘Elemental’. This feature will be incorporated only on one product, which will be seen as a ‘hero piece’, in terms of silhouette, suited towards early adopting and early majority ea consumers. Having one garment featuring this exaggerated collar style allows consumers to visualise the product as a ‘fad’; preventing quick saturation, but also used as a test to analyse consumers buying behaviour and adaption, ad for future ranges.
A tailored jacket is an invaluable product within any working professional’s wardrobe; the classic structured silhouette will require dilution to be ‘on-trend’ for Ted Baker’s AW16/17 range. Extending the length of the jacket compromises between the over-sized and slouched silhouette dominant within the trend, but also ensures classic styles aren’t lost in translation and product quality is still maintained. By extending the pr length of the jacket and removing structured elements, it allows for casual or formal use. This is key for Ted Baker consumers who are on-the-go, but also broadens the number of consumers who will consider buying into the range. It was noted within the directional shop that Jenny Packham’s SS16 RTW collection featured the use of elongated puffball sleeves; a feature Ted Baker will utilise. They provide an element of femininity yet still reflect the trend. It is evident that the desired effect of puffball sleeves cannot be obtained using heavy fabrics, therefore lightweight, soft fabrics will be required to maximise the effect.
The colour palette used for Ted Bakers AW16/17 will be a combination of 5 key shades, that have been diluted from initial research into the trend ‘Elemental’. Shades that were too bold will not be a directly reflected translation, as this would be too directional for the consumer to buy into. The range requires a complimentary yet experimental colour palette, therefore some shades have been diluted with neutral tones to make them suitable. By only developing 5 shades to be used for the range, it allows consumers to buy into the new trend, but also facilitate updating their wardrobe to compliment with existing Ted Baker pieces with the use of neutral tones. It also gives an exclusive feel to the ne products; a larger colour palette wouldn’t make the products identifiable as ‘Ted Baker’ which is an important factor consumers love about the brand. Understanding how the colour palette will be styled is an important element of the development process; creating colour chips and positioning them next to each other is important to know how to utilise colour within the range and enables a visual representation of dominant and effective shades. The choice of colour added to a garment, will effect its product classification, due to some shades being more vibrant and daring, suiting the variance of Ted Baker consumers.
Mid-length bodycon skirts were notable within the comparative shop. Ted Baker will utilise this information, by developing the silhouette to a full and voluminous style, making the garment trend-driven and cohesive within the range. Although the skirt has no structure to accentuate a female figure, the length and natural flow of the fabric will add delicacy and femininity. Keeping the sheer fabric feature, also identified in the comparative shop, is important as it is evidently desired by consumers, and sho successful for the brand. High-waisted wide leg trousers will feature as a sophisticated option for AW16/17 for the more ‘fashion savvy’ and early-majority consumers. The high-waisted style, teamed with a wide leg silhouette elongates the body, accentuates the waist whilst still maintaining the slouched silhouette identified within the trend.
Fabric is key to successfully translating the trend to both early adopting and early majority consumers. Fabric has been identified by Ted Baker’s consumers as an important factor in producing a high quality product, therefore appropriate choices need to be made to ensure the range is acceptable and reaches consumers at the right time. To depict ‘the journey through winters darkest months’, as noted within the trend concept board, dense fabrics will be contrasted with sheer and lightweight fabrics. However, it is important to consider the utilisation of sheer fabrics, to ensure that products are suitable for the consumers’ end use, also preventing Ted Baker being ‘something they’re not’. Fabric choice therefore requires little dilution, however woolen and fleeced fabrics will feature complimenting sheer fabric choices. Cashmere has been commonly identified within the comparative shop, so will be used within the range; however, cost will need to be considered when designing, in terms of amount of cashmere used. Fleeced fabric will be required to effectively produce the ‘hero piece’ collar. It is important that fabrics used can either hand washed or machine washable, to appeal to wider consumer base; it was noted that many Ted Baker and competitor’s products were dry clean only, which can prove a time and cost inconvenience for working professionals. Ribbed knits will also be used to maintain quality of the inco product, as well as being aesthetically pleasing. Breathable cottons and fine silks will be used within the range to produce the delicate garments, and contrast with the large knits. Silk can be used in moderation, on pockets for example, as a sophisticated alternative to incorporating metallic shades into the colour palette. By doing this it allows the products to appear high quality and not cheap, but still incorporating the directional influence in a way suitable for the brand.
Based on consumer research, and analysis of existing Ted Baker products, prints are very important to incorporate within their AW16/17 range. Prints weren’t particularly dominant within trend research; however, the influence of weathered textures has been developed to create 4 prints. They will be mainly incorporated in garment linings, as well as featuring on sheer fabrics to create ghosted effects, fitting with the trend. The use of cr the colour palette to enhance these bold prints, is fitting with the unique and quirky style and brand personality, incorporated within all Ted Baker product ranges.
Research identified strong focus on fabric, silhouette and the significance of print for Ted Baker; because of this, strong focus will not be added to decorative detailing, to prevent overpowering and confusing the consumer with an unbalanced range they’re unable to connect with. Influence came from Karen Millen’s use of plaited details, as a replacement for patterns created by traditional cable knit. This demonstrated a unique approach to a popular and desired Autumn/Winter garment. Ted Baker will adapt and develop this, including this feature into one garment of their upcoming AW16/17 range. It creates a product for the consumer, that features decoration, high quality and features directional cr influences, that working professionals will consider for their wardrobe. Another important detail to emphasise is fastenings of garments; research has identified that visible fastenings are something to avert for AW16/17. Concealed fastenings will prevent the overall range and individual garments, to appear fragmented. Although the consumer highlighted a unique feature to Ted Baker products included the use of different coloured buttons, other aspects such as printed linings and contrasting stitch colouring will add su individuality and exclusivity to the range, vibrant coloured buttons. Zip fastenings are a durable selection, as well as a high quality choice that will be reliable for the consumer, and fitting with the brand and their position within the market. This has the exception of the jacket included in the range; a button fastening will be the most appropriate choice to enhance styling and fit of the garment.
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