FABRIC AND TRIM COSTING DATE/SEASON: 1/12/15 SS16 SAMPLE GARMENT: TAILORED SKIRT SUPPLIER: UNIVERSITY OF MANCHESTER
Main: Calico
120’s
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
• The measurements given, relating to the amount of fabric and trims required to construct the garment, have been accurately planned, based on layplan measurements. Please note: required value for thread is a accurate estimate as this is difficult to determine exactly. • Choice of fabric and trims has been chosen as the most appropriate choice for the skirt, with quality and brand in mind. Measurements should not exceed those supplied within the tables above, as this would result in additional unnecessary costs.
Interfacing
• All fabric measurements provided are for a UK Size 12 - grading up or down will be required to retrieve measurements for UK Size 10 etc.
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PATTERN AND LAYPLAN
TERMINOLOGY
DATE/SEASON: 1/12/15 SS16 SAMPLE GARMENT: TAILORED SKIRT SUPPLIER: UNIVERSITY OF MANCHESTER SAMPLE LAYPLAN 1
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FABRIC FOLD
SELVEDGE EDGE
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0.72m
• SELVEDGE - Narrow flat woven border at both sides of lengthwise fabric • STRAIGHT GRAIN - Direction of lengthwise threads running parallel to selvedge edge. Threads are strong and stable, to withstand great tension during weaving.
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0.54m
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SIZE SPECIFICATION WITH WORKING DRAWING DATE/SEASON: 1/12/15 SS16 SAMPLE GARMENT: TAILORED SKIRT SUPPLIER: UNIVERSITY OF MANCHESTER
FRONT VIEW A B
ED
D
C
BACK VIEW
H E I
J F G
K
L
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WORKING DRAWING DATE/SEASON: 1/12/15 SS16 SAMPLE GARMENT: TAILORED SKIRT SUPPLIER: UNIVERSITY OF MANCHESTER Button fastening attached in waistband
Top stitching on waistband
4 darts on back for shaping 2 front darts
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Lapped zip fastening
• The working drawing represents key design features of the skirt. The use of darts in the front and back of the garment, enhances the desired fitted silhouette. Because of the fitted silhouette, combined with its knee length style a split is required in the back seam of the skirt. This will enable the consumer to wear the garment appropriately, allowing it to function as well as adding the comfort. com • Due to the fitted silhouette, lining would add bulk to the skirt creating a look that isn’t desired. Therefore, lining will not be added to the garment. In order to maintain high quality within the garment, all visible seams will be overlocked and pressed. Top stitching will not only add to visual aesthetics of the garment, but it will also add structure and strength. Top stitching is visible on the working drawings on the waistband, visi lapped zip and skirt split. • A monofilament thread creates the blind hem, to add quality as it isn’t visible from the outside of the skirt.
Split in the back of skirt
FRONT VIEW
Blind hem
BACK VIEW
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GARMENT BREAKDOWN SPECIFICATION DATE/SEASON: 1/12/15 SS16 SAMPLE GARMENT: TAILORED SKIRT SUPPLIER: UNIVERSITY OF MANCHESTER
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GARMENT BREAKDOWN SPECIFICATION DATE/SEASON: 1/12/15 SS16 SAMPLE GARMENT: TAILORED SKIRT SUPPLIER: UNIVERSITY OF MANCHESTER
Fusing Machine
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GARMENT BREAKDOWN SPECIFICATION DATE/SEASON: 1/12/15 SS16 SAMPLE GARMENT: TAILORED SKIRT SUPPLIER: UNIVERSITY OF MANCHESTER
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Tailored Skirt Technical Report Ted Baker is the fashion retailer to whom the tailored skirt will be manufactured for; this has a large impact on the construction processes involved to successfully produce this skirt. Ted Baker classic fashion retailer are positioned at the high-end of the high street, therefore the skirt must meet a specific level of quality to reflect the brand. 24 operations are involved in manufacturing, shown in the garment breakdown specification. Various operations demonstrate the use of Class 1 Superimposed Open seams, which alone require 3 operation processes: overlocking raw edges, lockstitching both fabric pieces together and pressing the seam open. To achieve a high quality garment, cost and time fa of manufacture will be affected, however the result will be stable seams, thus giving the skirt strength and enhancing the consumers value for money. Construction operations required to construct a seam vary; lower end retailers will only use one operation of overlocking both fabric pieces together to create the necessary seam. This would result in low quality manufactured garments, with seams lacking durability and resilience, as well reducing cost as labour costs. Another construction method reflecting high quality, is the incorporation of an invisible zip. Invisible zips are less noticeable within a garment as it is concealed within the fabric, as opposed to a lapped zip which can make garments appear very fragmented, and generally not aesthetically pleasing. Using an invisible zip would be a higher quality choice, hence why it has been incorporated into the tailored skirt for Ted Baker. As with the seam choice, the use of an invisible zip incurs higher cost due to the length taken to complete the operation. It includes changing machine foot attachments, as well as the lengthy process to successfully construct functioning fastening. The split added centre back seam of the skirt enables it to fully function, and movement to not be constricted for the consumer. Tolerances throughout the manufacturing process are vital to consider and for this tailored skirt the tolerances must be low. If tolerance is high e.g. 1.5cm, this will cause size variation between garments that are all intended to be the same UK size. For example, if two skirts have a 1.5cm tolerance, ultimately, a 3cm variance could occur; this could dramatically affect the size specifications of the two skirts, and produce a size 10 and 12 skirt when intending to produce two size 12 garments. As the tailored skirt is for Ted Baker, a high-end fashion retailer, the tolerance for each seam is Âą4mm, to eliminate substantial size variances. Highly skilled-labourers will be required to complete intricate construction processes, increasing manufacturing costs and time taken to complete an operation, due to higher levels of concentration required. Failure to conform to tolerance, Ted Baker have the ability to reject the order due to the criteria not being met, or they will have the ability to negotiate a modified cost per garment. The correlation between quality, cost and time of manufacture must be understood; the more manufacturing operations incorporated in producing the tailored skirt, the higher the risk of producing a garment that will not meet the specified AQL. When determining the construction methods, consideration of underestimating machine and human error can also result in large amount of incurred costs, as more fabric or trims could be required if mistakes occur.
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