Level Three Proposals

Fig 1 – Inka Williams headshot, Eddie New (2015)

.LEVEL THREE PROPOSALS

N0557248 FASH20032

LEVEL THREE PROPOSALS

.FASHION COMMUNICATION AND PROMOTION

.ELLIE MCALLISTER PREPARATION FOR LEVEL THREE

. CONTENTS 01 PREFACE 02 INTRODUCTION TO PROPOSALS 03 IS IT QUALITY THAT SELLS OR A NAME? 04 HOW PHOTOSHOPPED ADS AFFECT SALES

Fig 3 - Kate Moss, Corinne Day (1993)

Fig 2 - Sad Boys, Marta Thisner (2014)

05 CONCLUSION

Fig 4 – Hands, Julia Campbell Gillies (2015)

.PREFACE After assessing my strengths and weaknesses over the last two years of FCP, due to my skill set I feel at the moment I am best suited to the graphic design aspects of the course. During previous briefs I have taken particular interest in the design and layout part of the creative process, working closely on InDesign during briefs such as our identity zine and trend report. Feedback for previous projects also suggests this is one of the strongest attributes as an FCP student.

A weakness of mine, which this report will particularly help me overcome, is idea generation and research - two of the most important aspects of this piece of work.

Because of this, it is essential I bring all of the learning and knowledge I have gained since being on FCP together to do the appropriate research needed to make an informed analysis around these subject areas.

In reference to the FCP Triangle, based on my strengths I would firmly place myself at Creative Concept and the Execution areas as I enjoy all aspects of these sections.

Creative Concept is where I would say I am the strongest, again due to feedback I have received over the last two years. In reference to this I feel a creative position in industry such as a graphic designer or a role as a creative director are areas I could consider as possible future job prospects.

.INTRODUCTION In preparation for Level 3 of Fashion Communication and Promotion, which I will be entering into in just a matter of months, I am starting to become very aware that I need to begin thinking about how I would like to progress. This includes developing into the next stage of my degree, particularly in reference to my third year self-devised project.

In this report I will discuss and assess two separate topics that I may wish to carry forward as part of my selfdevised project. I chose these ideas as they both greatly interest me and I feel they are extremely current and have the ability to grow with the future of fashion. I will research and explore my two current ideas in depth, using primary and secondary sources in order to affirm or even dismiss them as potential third year projects.

For my first idea I will be looking into effect a brand name or logo has on consumers purchasing choices.

Although I myself can sometimes be blinded by a name, it seems that millennials are becoming more concerned about wearing popular brands regardless of its quality and current condition. Whereas according to a Mintel it is the over 45’s that prioritise quality, stating ‘Almost three quarters of over-55s say product quality is important’ to them when

purchasing clothing (Womenswear UK - May 2016) I would like to explore this further to try and understand whether it is the quality of a product that sells or the name, as well as if and how brands use this information.

Looking at my second idea, I would like to research into if Photoshopped advertisements have any influence on sales. It is a common perception with brands that in order to encourage consumers to buy into their products, they must use thin or edited models to present an unattainable appearance.

This then causes the viewer to feel inadequate and so want to seek out that same product to try and improve upon him or herself. Robert Kolker, a media-studies professor at the University of Maryland, himself states, ‘Fairy tales are more potent than reality.’ (ELLE Canada 2012) American Eagle’s lingerie brand Aerie chose to take their advertisements in a different direction however, promoting a much healthier lifestyle by removing tainted imagery from future ads. This ultimately caused the sales of their underwear to increase significantly.

So what is the most successful way of promoting sales? Or does it depend on the brand and their target consumer. By researching around this topic I am hoping to achieve a greater understanding the question; do Photoshopped ads affect sales?

PROPOSAL ONE

L

.IS IT

QUALITY THAT SELLS OR A NAME?

Fig 5 – Edit, Ellie McAllister (2016)

My first idea came from my discovery of a short film by I-D when researching into British youth style tribes (I-D, 2015). It outlined the popularity of outrageous branding and labels that has grown from the original 90’s aesthetic. It seems that, especially in reference to this yet unnamed style tribe, the look and quality of clothing is not what sells, but the name it is associated with.

Fig 6 – Illustration by Hisashi Okawa (2012)

‘People live in groups. Every human being enters this world as a member’ (Dr. Loren Osborn, as cited in The Culting of Brands)

A common reason for people’s decision-making based on their identity, arises from the human need to be part of a family, tribe or group.

Being accepted by ones peers is to some, essential and they do this using certain products and affiliations to strengthen their self-presentation. This idea could ultimately suggest that a person does not feel fully a part of a collection unless they are somewhat connect to a certain brand, no matter the quality of its products. Marketing strategist Douglas Atkin, who in ‘The Culting of Brands’ commented on a statement made by a Mac user, reinforces this statement. He was noted as saying; “you become more you” (2005, p.8) by associating yourself with a certain brand, as it can allow you become a better version of yourself.

Apple is the perfect example of how brand loyalty can become so ingrained in a person it is no longer about the

products, the fact it has the Apple logo on it is enough for it to be bought by the masses. Derek Thompson writes about how these brands that create a cult like mentality also seem to be poor markers of individuality or special identity (Atlantic Monthly, 2014, p.26). A cult by definition in the Collins English Dictionary is ‘A system of religious veneration and devotion directed towards a particular figure or object.’ (2006, p.137) In a brands case the devotion is directed towards that of an object and the brand itself can hold a great amount of respect by consumers and so they continue to buy. All of this seems to suggest that, in some cases, whether or not the products are the best in their area is not what matters. The affect it has is it allows the consumer to be apart of something and it makes them feel included.

‘The worst industrial accident ever in the garment industry.’

There is also the argument that it should always be the quality of a product that defines its desirability. Quality may also be defined by the way in which it has been produced. Some view the label ‘made in china’ as a stigma due to the negative connotations around garment production in Asia. Working conditions and pay for employees has been well documented over the years and since the Rana Plaza Collapse in 2013, that housed many well known brands from the UK and USA, with Primark, Mango, J.C. Penney and Wal-Mart to name a few, awareness of this issue has grown tremendously. The Economist called it ‘the worst industrial accident in South Asia since the Bhopal disaster in 1984, and the worst ever in the garment industry.’ (2013) However, the Bhopal disaster was given much less media coverage. As well as this, the concept of sweatshops was widely unmentioned until the mid-nineties. It was not until information came to light that America actress, Kathie Lee Grifford had been using sweatshops to produce her clothing line. This is when media agencies suddenly began covering more and more stories on sweatshop conditions and other areas surrounding the subject (Made In China, 2005)

Fig 7 – Rana Plaza, Atish Saha (2015)

Creative research will be the most effective way of finding out this information as it is engaging for a younger audience and hence will make them want to take part. My plan for this is to observe how consumers distinguish between quality and brand, doing so by creating my own controlled experiment. I will purchase two plain white t-shirts, almost identical in appearance. On one, from a vendor that is renowned for its low quality, I will print a brand logo that is popular with millennials e.g. Nike, Supreme. For the other, from a clothing company that strives to up out quality garments, I will leave as is. Then asking the target consumer which they believe to be of better quality, I will note which they chose while observing how they came to this conclusion. This is only one part of my research however and I will be doing much more research in order to reach an overall conclusion.

Starting to think about the execution for this idea, based on my findings I plan to create a brand presence that is either focussed purely on the quality of it’s products or completely self-oriented, moving more towards a lifestyle brand.

This will take all of my knowledge of graphic design into account as well as my skill set on the Adobe Creative Suite. I will put what I have discovered through my research into practice, for example, how a brand builds itself up to become somewhat of a phenomenon with a cult-like following. Such like that of Apple’s immense fan admiration.

.THE CONSUMER Moving on to thinking about how this could become an FCP project, I will need to do my own investigation into whether people truly care about the quality of a product or only look at the brand in which it surrounds itself. As I mentioned millennials previously, I feel they are the ideal consumer to target this project towards. It would be interesting to see if they take into consideration where their products are manufactured and their thoughts around those issues, or if they are as brand oriented as I had first thought.

?

Fig 8 – Sheep, Erich M. Staudacher (2013)

PROPOSAL TWO

L

.HOW

PHOTOSHOPPED ADS AFFECT SALES

Fig 9 – Prada SS Womenswear, Unknown (1994)

The second idea for my proposal stemmed from an article I read online recently in the US edition of the Huffington Post. It talked about American Eagle’s lingerie brand Aerie and how sales have surged 32% in the past two years since removing Photoshopped images from their advertisements. Now the brand is proud to promote body-positive imagery through its promotional outlets. (The Huffington Post, 2016) If this really is the case, that removing airbrushing from adverts affects a brands sales in a positive way, then why do so many brands still use editing software on model bodies? This is what I would like to research, considering both sides of the argument to establish whether Aerie was just an exception to the fact or if more brands should consider stopping airbrushing all together.

Fig 10/11 – Aerie Real Campaign, Unknown (2016)

The second idea for my proposal stemmed from an article I read online recently in the US edition of the Huffington Post. It talked about American Eagle’s lingerie brand Aerie and how sales have surged 32% in the past two years since removing Photoshopped images from their advertisements. Now the brand is proud to promote body-positive imagery through its promotional outlets. (The Huffington Post, 2016) If this really is the case, that removing airbrushing from adverts affects a brands sales in a positive way, then why do so many brands still use editing software on model bodies?

This is what I would like to research, considering both sides of the argument to establish whether Aerie was just an exception to the fact or if more brands should consider stopping airbrushing all together.

Aerie are not the first brand that have tried to entice women through the use of an ‘everyday’ woman in their campaigns. Dove owned by the company Unilever has, for almost a decade, stayed away from the typical fashion model body type and focused on real women. According to Ben Barry, Dove experienced a 600% increase in sale within the first two months of the campaigns release (ELLE Canada, 2012). However this was soon written off as an anomaly, rather it was so popular due to the novelty of the act and so many brands did not follow suit. During Paris Fashion Week however, Jean Paul Gaultier boldly cast numerous models size 10 - 14 for his Spring/Summer 2011 catwalk show. Whether or not this had any affect on sales however is unclear.

It is a known fact that brands and magazines use Photoshop to ‘enhance’ the appearance of female bodies within their advertisements. This is a particular issue within the swimwear and lingerie industries as this is were consumers see areas of the body that can usually be hidden by clothing.

Recently the ‘ideal body’ has become so unachievable that even women chosen to model the garments are having their bodies morphed and edited to become flawless. This promotes an unhealthy body image towards young women, as Turner et al. (1997) discovered. In a study carried out by the researchers, they divided female participants into two separate groups, all of a similar height and weight. One half was shown images of thin women in magazines and the other news articles. They were then asked to complete a body image satisfaction survey, to which the results showed that those women shown the images from magazines expressed a want to achieve a thinner body size. The U.S. Department of Health and Human Service’s Office on Women’s Health states that ‘media influences such as TV, magazines and movies reinforce the belief that women should be more concerned with their appearance than with their own ideas or achievements’ (2000, p.6).

Worryingly, due to the exposer of this kind of imagery, at least 50 percent of 9-year-old and 80 percent of 10-yearold girls are becoming concerned about their weight, according to Hawkins (as cited in Bale, 2008).

‘It’s better to use extremely thin models because that’s what makes women feel bad about themselves...’

Going back to discussing the issues of Photoshop, a situation arose in 2013 when Beyoncé’s promotional images for H&M’s new swimwear line were edited in order to minimize the singer’s famous curves. This came as a shock to many as H&M had previously published images of U.S. size 12 model Jennie Runk for a swimwear campaign without labeling the images with the term ‘plus-size’ (Daily Mail, 2013) Beyoncé is also one of the few women that are continuously highly praised for her curvy silhouette. It may have, to some women with a figure similar to that of the singer, suggested that their bodies two were not good enough.

This was only the year before Aerie decided to remove Photoshopped images all together. Researcher Naomi Mandel put it bluntly, saying ‘It’s better to use extremely thin models because that’s what makes women feel bad about themselves and want to buy the products’ (ELLE Canada, 2012).

This is the exact reason why brands do not want to stop using thin models or edited images in their campaigns, because they feel it is the most successful way of generating sales. But is it?

As well as all of this secondary research, I am also starting to think of concepts for my own primary research that could be carried out so I am able to enhance my personal knowledge on this issue. I would be interested to see how people feel about advertising where Photoshop is concerned. I would also like to set up an experiment for myself, similar to that carried out by Turner et al., where I would be able to see if and how Photoshopped imagery, presenting the medias ideal body, affected them. However this would be something I would need to be thinking about over summer in order to come up with a strong enough concept.

In terms of the execution for this idea, as the whole concept is based upon advertisements and editing software, it makes the most sense to create an promotional campaign. Here I would be able to put my experience with photoshoots that I have gained since being on FCP, into practice as well as the post-production aspects. The subject of the campaign however is something I need to consider further, however one thought is to have it as promoting positive body image, similar to that of Dove and Aerie.

Fig 12 – BeyoncÊ for Mrs. Carter H&M, Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

Being a young woman myself I find this topic of research extremely interesting, particularly hearing different peoples opinions on the subject, as well as learning more about the consequences of Photoshop and airbrushing. I do not believe anyone is ever truly happy with his or her body; there may always be something you wish to improve. This is not an isolated issue. With this, if I was able to encourage or help someone learn to be comfortable with themselves through my own research and execution, then this is a very worthy idea to look deeper into.

PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE

PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE

PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE PLUS-SIZE

.THE CONSUMER Thinking about who I would need to target my primary research towards I first need to consider a possible consumer for this proposal. I feel due to the information I have gathered from outside sources that mention mainly young women, that they would be the most logical and ideal audience. Although Photoshop is also seen within the male market of the fashion industry, there is much less research to suggest that it has the same affect it has on women, on men.

As in my first proposal idea I will be focusing on millennials I shall steer my target audience more towards a young woman with an age range between 18 – 25 years of age. She would also be an individual that has an interest in fashion and so will read fashion magazines, where the majority of Photoshopped imagery is found.

?

Fig 13 – Charlotte Free for I-D, Terry Richardson (2012)

.CONCLUSION To further develop my two proposal ideas over the coming months, I plan on doing more extensive research into the two topic areas. I will explore them deeply until I feel I have a strong enough grasp to be able continue them into the start of level 3. This will also allow me to generate more options for possible creative primary research, which I hope to carry out towards the end of summer or at the start of third year.

In terms of furthering my secondary research I hope to look at the American market during my upcoming trip to the US where I will be staying for a month. This is an extensive amount of time to be in the country so I feel I will be able to gain some great knowledge of the young female market in the US. It also seems from my research so far that the country is one of the worst offenders for Photoshopped images within their adverts and magazines.

This may be due to the large amount of obese women they are able to target.

Aerie is also a brand based exclusively in the US and so this is an excellent opportunity to visit their stores and see first hand the adverts being talked about by so many media outlets. I will also be able to ask the sales assistants present a few questions about the brand and the type of women who purchase it.

.LIST OF

ILLUSTRATIONS FIGURE 1 – Inka Williams headshot, Eddie New (2015) http://eddienew.tumblr.com/post/120683054933/inka-inkawilliams-by-eddie-new-beauty. Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 2 - Sad Boys, Marta Thisner (2014) http:// payload293.cargocollective.com/1/11/353940/8179935/ sadboys_martathisner_04_965.jpg. Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 3 - Kate Moss, Corinne Day (1993) http://www.studded-hearts.com/wp-content/ uploads/2013/01/Kate-Moss-photographed-by-CorinneDay-1990.jpg. Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 4 – Hands, Julia Campbell Gillies (2015) http://66. media.tumblr.com/589ec81bed5ad84531e98705bef59e43/ tumblr_inline_nugg5aNjyG1s9ffex_500.jpg. Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 5 – Edit, Ellie McAllister (2016) Original available at: http://blog.indiaspopup.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/ wintour2.jpg Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 6 – Illustration by Hisashi Okawa (2012) http://65. media.tumblr.com/cc0dcd8812d6c9656b77d5c714868784/ tumblr_n391zjJBTg1qi7unpo1_500.jpg. Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 7 – Rana Plaza, Atish Saha (2015) http://www. outoftheblue.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/ranaplaza. jpg. Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 8 – Sheep, Erich M. Staudacher (2013) http://assets. slate.wvu.edu/resources/1138/1380114958.jpg. Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 9 – Prada SS Womenswear, Unknown (1994) http:// www.prada.com/en/collections/fashion-show/archive/ woman-ss-1994.html?look=78. Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 10/11 – Aerie Real Campaign, Unknown (2016) https://pics.ae.com/is/image/aeo/20160317_areal_5girls_ lg?qlt=60&scl=1. Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 12 – Beyoncé for Mrs. Carter H&M, Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin (2013) http://www.vogue. co.uk/news/2013/03/21/beyonce-hm-campaign--collectionconfirmed/gallery/962037. Last accessed: 30th May 2016 FIGURE 13 – Charlotte Free for I-D, Terry Richardson (2012) http://blog.myflashtrash.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/id-mag-cover-charlotte-free-pizza-my-flash-trash-jewellerycharms.jpg. Last accessed: 30th May 2016

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V0rJVGNNDww. Last accessed 29th May 2016.

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Available: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=BtJJIluwIOw. Last accessed 28th May 2016.

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MOSBERGEN, D (2016). Since Lingerie Brand Aerie Ditched Photoshopped Ads, Sales Have Surged. Available: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/ aerie-photoshop-sales-growth-2016_ us_573d35d6e4b0646cbeec260c. Last accessed 28th May 2016.

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Last accessed 28th May 2016.

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.BIBLIOGRAPHY ABRAHAM, T. (2013). Too bootylicious?

How Beyoncé was ‘furious’ with H&M after it ‘tried to airbrush her curves’ in new swimwear campaign. Available: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/ article-2333226/Beyonce-row-H-Mdiscovering-wanted-downsize-curvesswimwear-campaign.html. Last accessed 29th May 2016.

ATKINS, D (2005). The culting of brands : turn your customers into true believers.

London: Turnaround.

BALE, K (2008). Media representations of female body images in women’s magazines : a content analysis of media trends. Saarbrücken: VDM. BARNARD, M (1996). Fashion as communication. 2nd ed. London: Routledge.

BARRY, B. (2012). Can using different types of models benefit brands?.

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V0rJVGNNDww. Last accessed 29th May 2016.

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DAWYER, D. H. (1997). The influence of fashion magazines on the body image satisfaction of college women: An exploratory analysis. Adolescence, 32,

603-615.

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images : affect, body image and fat in the media. (Online source). Available: http:// site.ebrary.com/lib/nottinghamtrent/ detail.action?docID=10828998. Last accessed 29th May 2016.

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businessinsider.co.id/american-eaglesaerie-sales-2016-5/#.V0mvqmNNDww. Last accessed 28th May 2016.

THE ECONOMIST. (2013). Disaster at Rana Plaza. Available: http://www. economist.com/news/leaders/21577067gruesome-accident-should-makeall-bosses-think-harder-about-whatbehaving-responsibly?fsrc=scn/fbasia.

Last accessed 28th May 2016.

THOMPSON, D. (2014). Turning Customers into Cultists. The Atlantic Monthly. 314 (5), 26,30,32.

TURNER, S. L., HAMILTON, H., JACOBS, M,. ANGOOD, L. M., WYKES, M, GUNTER, B (2005). The media and body image: if looks could kill. London: Thousand Oaks.

UYTTENBROEK, E.,VERSUS, A. (Unknown). Exactitudes. Available: http://www.exactitudes.com. Last accessed 31st May 2016.

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.APPENDIX

.METHODOLOGY TABLE

FOCUS GROUP

NETNOGRAPHY

ETHNOGRAPHY

INTERVIEWS

RESEARCH METHODS

PURPOSE

STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

To gain a deeper insight into peoples opinions and recieve more detailed responces.

Also a good opportunity to engage with target aundience

Learn peoples true thoughts and recieve a broad range of answers.

Also more comfortable for the participant as it is out of a group setting

People may not want to say their true thoughts as they may not want to be judged

To observe consumer interaction and reactions to products and get insight into why they are attracted to that certain item and how they engage with it

First hand insight into the target audiences engagments with products in a natural environment

May not always give true insight as there may be circumstances with that target audience member that would cause them to go against thier usual reactions

To observe consumers free behaviour on the internet

The consumers feel more relaxed to be able to talk openly about their opinions as it is not on a face to face basis

More narrow focussed

To gain primary research from consumers and insight into their opinions and could generate a debate between eachother

Informal situation so consumers feel relaxed and able to talk openly

Participants may feel uncomfortable around others and you are only reaching a small amount of peoples in a small focus group

.CARTOGRAMS

PROPOSAL ONE INNOVATORS. NINTIES SUPREME/MODS/APPLE/ORIGINAL JUNGLISTS DRIVERS. SWEDISH COLLECTIVE/YUNG LEAN/SAD BOYS IMPACT. YOUTH TRIBES/FAST FASHION/FASHION STATEMENTS CONSEQUENCES. RESELLING/DEPOP/LOSS OF QUALITY/HIGH STREET BECOMING REDUNDENT/RANA PLAZA/CHEAP CLOTHING FUTURES. NEXT-GEN/GENERATION Z/ONLINE COMMUNITIES/ BETTER QUALITY/SAFER WORKING CONDITIONS

PROPOSAL TWO INNOVATORS. NINTIES MAGAZINES/VOGUE/ANNA WINTOUR DRIVERS. KATE MOSS/WINONA RYDER/AERIE REAL/DOVE IMPACT. JEAN PAUL GAULTIER/H&M PHOTOSHOP/BEYONCE CONSEQUENCES. EATING DISORDERS/H&M APPOLOGY/AERIE SALES SURGED/FRANCE BANNING THIN MODELS FUTURES. POSSIBLY MORE COUNTRIES BANNING SKINNY MODELS

.FCP PROCESS A

B

Visual Merchandiser PR and Events Web Content E-commerce Art Director Editor

Creative Director Media Planner Photographer Copywriter Graphics Stylist

C Innovation Officer Market Researcher Trend Forecaster Designer Editor

A

A EXECUTION

B CREATIVE CONCEPT

C THE BIG IDEA

D CONTEXT

D Art Director Marketing Buyer

B

GRAPHIC DESIGNER CREATIVE DIRECTOR VISUAL MERCHANDISER

.DIFFUSION OF INNOVATION CURVE

LAGGARDS

IDEA 1 LATER MAJORITY

IDEA 2

LATE MAJORITY

EARLY MAJORITY

EARLY ADOPTERS

INNOVATORS

.ELLIE MCALLISTER N0557248 WORD COUNT: 3128