T R E N D R E P O RT A W 16/17
TREND REPORT
AU T U M N / W I N T E R 16/17
PRINT THE ESCAPADES MULTI-METALLICA MOORLAND MOTIF
SPORTSWEAR TRENDS SHEER TRUTHS THE NAME GAME NET-WORKING
VISUAL MERCHANDISING THE CRAFTSMAN THE GREENHOUSE EFFECT SAMELESSLY FRAMELESS
t n i r P
T R E N D S
THE ESCAPADES
Fig 1 - Cracked Leather Sweater (2013)
Fig 2 - Peter Pilotto, Fall 2016, Marcus Tondo (2016)
Fig 3 - Piste Map (2016)
T H E E S C A PA D E S PRINT
Fig 4 - Rocks, Thomas van der Zaag (2015) Fig 5 - Peter Pilotto, Fall 2016, Marcus Tondo (2016)
Outside of fashion, extreme wellness and blood pumping experiences are amongst those of the more desired vacation activities of 2016, with many opting for winter ski and mountain trekking getaways. It has gained popularity within recent years and created a need for adventure that many are reaching out for with both arms and saying goodbye to the beaches of the Mediterranean coast. Filtering down onto the A/W 2016 runways, icey landscapes and mountain ranges have never been more current.
Fig 6 - Edited, Mount Thule, Bylot Island (1930) Mountains in Snow (1929) Oil on Canvas, Lawren Harris
Fig 7, Emilio Pucci Fall 2016, Monica Feudi (2016)
Fig 9, Emilio Pucci Fall 2016, Monica Feudi (2016)
Fig 8, Emilio Pucci Fall 2016, Monica Feudi (2016)
Emilio Pucci took the trend in a more literal sense with an exact mountain inspired motif. Taking inspiration from artists such as the modernist painter Lawren Harris who used mountain faces within his work and practically defined 20th Century Canadian art. He painted scenes of a cold, empty northland and isolated peaks in bold, contrasting colours.
MULTI-METALLICA
Fig 10 - Iridescent silver sweatshirt, Juun.J (2015)
Fig 11 - Saint Laurent Fall 2016, Marcus Tondo (2016)
M U LT I - M E TA L L I C A
Fig 13 - Saint Laurent Fall 2016, Marcus Tondo (2016)
Fig 12 - Saint Laurent Fall 2016, Marcus Tondo (2016)
Familiar to the Eighties club scene, metallic materials have been filtered through into detailed workmanship to create something alluring and rather hard to ignore. The trend calls out to be seen in by all and it does not fail. It is shown in accessories such as courts and cummerbund belts, allowing the eye to roam around the different parts of a models physique with particular emphasis.
Fig 14 - Area Fall 2016, Charlotte Wales (2016)
Fig 15 - Gucci Pre-Fall 2016 (2015)
Fig 16 - Edited, Gucci Pre-Fall 2016 (2015)
‘Shimmered with metallic accents; it was a true feast for the eyes.’
MOORLAND MOTIF
Fig 17 - Calvin Klein Collection, Aitor Rosas (2016)
Fig 18/19 - Calvin Klein Collection, Marcus Tondo (2016)
M O O R L A N D M OT I F PRINT
Fig 20/21 - Vogue UK Grunge, Patrick Demarchelier (2013)
The original grunge aesthetic was controlled by a consumer’s love of plaid and it was once only fit for that and rock ‘n’ roll. This has changed drastically since its 90’s heyday to become a lot less severe. It still clings onto street style and that may never change, although it seems to have become less about the print itself and more about the garment to which it donned that defines it.
Fig 22 - CĂŠdric Charlier Pre-Fall 2016 Collection, Alfredo Piola (2015)
‘A dash of the Perry Ellis collection that lost Marc Jacobs his job’
Fig 23 - Cédric Charlier Pre-Fall 2016 Collection, Alfredo Piola (2015)
Fig 24 - Calvin Klein Grunge and Glory, Steven Meisel (1992)
Cédric Charlier’s recent collection however seems to have taken direct inspiration from the 90’s as well as that from the traditional kilt skirts, worn by Scotsman alike, to create a mixture of street and convention.
S T R O P S WEAR
T R E N D S
SHEER TRUTHS
Fig 25 - Pinterest, Nike Transparent Jacket (Unknown)
Fig 26 - Edited, Cottweiler (2015)
SHEER TRUTHS SPORTS WEAR
Fig 27/28 - Adidas by Stella McCartney (2015)
Focusing on the movement and development in technology behind sportswear fabrics, it appears many are moving on to concentrate on the performance and practicality that aids performance elements such as breathability and weight. The modern, clinical look comes from the sheer nano fabrics that adopt the necessary characteristics that can include thermal regulation, high elasticity and odor control, all for the benefit of the user.
Fig 29 - André Courrèges, William Laxton (1960’s)
S PA C E R A C E
The Space Race of the Fifties and Sixties capitalised fashion with designers such as André Courrèges, one of the revolutionary designers of the space age. They would use futuristic fabrics in their clothing such as the sheer, plastic materials that they hoped would find themselves on the moon along with the space shuttle.
SPORTS WEAR
Since then, the sheer trend, with its sterile fabrics has found its way into the sportswear industry, particularly in A/W 2016. It seems only practical that light weight, breathable materials are used in order for the clothing to be effective during actual fitness activities as well as on the street with a more sports luxe approach.
Fig 30 - Gamu Moyo Fall 2015, Unknown (2015)
Fig 31 - André Courrèges, William Laxton (1960’s)
THE NAME GAME
Fig 32 - Wang x H&M, Unknown (2015)
Fig 33 - Edited, Collage (2016)
THE NAME GAME
Fig 34/35 - Adrianne Ho for North Face x Supreme (2015)
SPORTS WEAR
Gone is the idea of subtleties and the unwavering view that boasting about one’s clothing is vulgar. It is all about whom you are wearing and how you let your pears know about it. Branding is now big business for sports brands that are well know for their edge and hold over the industry. Although for brands such as Adidas and Supreme; that has always been the case.
Fig 36 - Street Style Paris Fashion Week (2015)
Fig 37 - Model Polaroid, Oyster Mag, Chloe Hill (2016)
SPORTS WEAR
A yet unnamed youth style tribe has adopted the concept from the street kids of the Nineties, which states the bigger the branding, the better. More recently sports brands have noticed the growing popularity of these stand-out pieces and have decided to take control of this, making them all the more accessible.
NET-WORKING
Fig 38 - Nun Bangkok, Pygmy Owl Shorts (2016)
Fig 39 - Michi Black Dynasty Mesh Zip-up Jacket (Unkown)
N E T- W O R K I N G SPORTS WEAR
Fig 40 - Mesh Insert Shorts (Unknown)
Michi, an active wear brand based out of Toronto, Canada, claim to be one of the original innovators of the ‘edgy mesh insert’. It is a material that is fashion forward yet lightweight, durable and most important for an item of sportswear, comfortable.
Fig 41 - Pinterest (Unkown)
Practically, mesh is an ideal aspect of sportswear with its main purpose being to help with ventilation when working out, to allow the wearer to remain cool during the most intense of workouts.
Fig 42 - Orange Metal Mesh with Round Holes Texture (Unknown)
SPORTS WEAR
Fig 44 - Nike Berwuda Mid QS (2015)
Fig 43 - Lululemon (2015)
For the new sportswear consumer mesh is a must, allowing them to wear items that incorporate the material out of active environments. Street style and the house club scene are seeing more and more sportswear entering their worlds. Mesh in particular is enabling the individual to feel stylish and yet in keeping with the ideal feature of comfort.
l a u s vi dising
n a h c r e m
T R E N D S
THE CRAFTSMAN
Fig 45 - Greene St Juice Co, Travis Walton (2015)
Fig 46 - Bikini Berlin, Katie Hamilton (2016)
THE CRAFTSMAN VM
This trend is centered on the innovation and craftsmanship that is required to create some of the elaborate structures used within stores visual merchandising. New designs are created using artful, handcrafted techniques and eclectic upcycling of everyday objects, mainly raw wood.
Fig 47 - Salvaged Wood (Unknown)
It remains a popular feature of store VM with many brands now looking at ways to reintegrate previous products and materials into their current store aesthetic.
Fig 48 - Hostem Store, London (2015)
Fig 49 - Ai Weiwei, Fragments (2005)
Fig 50 - Ai Weiwei, Bang (2010)
Taking mundane, everyday items and turning them into a piece of art is something of beauty. It is what Ai Weiwei uses to create his overwhelming sculptures, recently making a political statement with ‘Fragments’, where by he transformed salvaged wood taken from Qing Dynasty temples into pieces of vast artwork.
VM
THE GREENHOUSE EFFECT
Fig 51 - Berkenbast bloempotten, Marij Hessel (Unknown)
Fig 52 - & Other Stories, Katie Hamilton (2016)
THE GREENHOUSE EFFECT
Fig 53 - & Other Stories, Katie Hamilton (2016)
Fig 54 - & Other Stories, Prepping for a shoot in the Paris Atelier (2016)
Whether it is a focus on the ‘urban jungle’ or a want for a connection to nature, a stores fascination with leafy shrubbery, chic potted cacti or picturesque flower arrangements can be intense or delicate. It offers a sort of feel to a store that without it, it would not be able to achieve and by turning a store into a sort of indoor garden, consumers may feel more at ease with their surroundings.
VM
Fig 55 - & Other Stories, Facebook (2016)
Fig 56 - 25 Hours Hotel Berlin (2014)
VM
Greenhouse structures are sometimes devised it create a larger overall atmosphere to a space. This can be seen throughout the concept mall, Bikini Berlin, with fertile greenery hanging from all aspects of the building’s walls and ceilings. You are truly submerged into an enclosure of florae.
SHAMELESSLY FRAMELESS
Fig 57 - Premium Trade Show, Katie Hamilton (2016)
Fig 58 - Wire Wall Grid, Urban Outfitters (Unknown)
S H A M E L E S S LY FRAMELESS
Fig 59 - Hanging Clips, Urban Outfitters (Unknown)
In the past, hanging an image usually consisted off invisible ways of mounting it to a wall not allowing for anyone to see the method of how. More recently however, image mounting tape and wall clips have
made for a more DIY interior that only adds to a room. Multifunctional and able to work within any space, these new methods of image hanging have made their way into the visual merchandising sector.
VM
Fig 60 - & Other Stories Hangers (Unknown)
VM
Fig 61 - & Other Stories Hangers, Katie Hamilton (2016)
& Other Stories see this as an opportunity to be eco-responsible and other stores have started to take notice. It seems so effortless and simple you do not know why you did not think of it. Up-cycling old clothing hangers to exhibit their visual imagery allows for a more innovative aesthetic that is very much in keeping with the look and overall feel of the store.
TREND REPORT
AU T U M N / W I N T E R 16/17
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figure 1 - Cracked Leather Sweater (2013) https://s-media-cache-ak0. pinimg.com/originals/eb/c8/34/ebc834a2325a512a91178b59d0734b59. jpg . Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 2 - Peter Pilotto, Fall 2016, Marcus Tondo (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/peter-pilotto/slideshow/collection#8 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 3 - Piste Map (2016) http://www.skitotal.com/wp-content/ uploads/2015/03/Alpe-DHuez-Piste-Map.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 4 - Rocks, Thomas van der Zaag (2015) https://41.media. tumblr.com/35be33e755e0e93aeef708e692cb45e2/tumblr_mogbskIvvv1qarjnpo1_500.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 5 - Peter Pilotto, Fall 2016, Marcus Tondo (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/peter-pilotto/slideshow/collection#28 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 6 - Edited, Mount Thule, Bylot Island (1930) Mountains in Snow (1929) Oil on Canvas, Lawren Harris https://hammer.ucla.edu/ fileadmin/media/exhibitions/2015/Lawren_Harris/1930_Mount_ Thule__Bylot_Island_Van_Art_Gal.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 7, Emilio Pucci Fall 2016, Monica Feudi (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/emilio-pucci/slideshow/collection#2 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 8, Emilio Pucci Fall 2016, Monica Feudi (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/emilio-pucci/slideshow/collection#2 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 9, Emilio Pucci Fall 2016, Monica Feudi (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/emilio-pucci/slideshow/collection#19 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 10 - Iridescent silver sweatshirt, Juun.J (2015) http://wgsn. tumblr.com/post/90069675479/iridescent-silver-sweatshirt-at-the-juunj-today Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 11 - Saint Laurent Fall 2016, Marcus Tondo (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/saint-laurent/slideshow/details#50 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 12 - Saint Laurent Fall 2016, Marcus Tondo (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/saint-laurent/slideshow/details#101 Last accessed 12th May 2016
Figure 16 - Edited, Gucci Pre-Fall 2016 (2015) http://www.vogue. com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/gucci/slideshow/collection#19 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 17 - Calvin Klein Collection, Aitor Rosas (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/calvin-klein-collection/slideshow/details#11 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 18 - Calvin Klein Collection, Marcus Tondo (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/calvin-klein-collection/slideshow/collection#11 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 19 - Calvin Klein Collection, Marcus Tondo (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/calvin-klein-collection/slideshow/collection#13 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 20 - Vogue UK Grunge, Patrick Demarchelier (2013) https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/e0/37/98/ e03798536516a7d8279426bb05710c7a.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 21 - Vogue UK Grunge, Patrick Demarchelier (2013) https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/76/67/f2/ 7667f24a61507b868a49f32fefa4494e.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 22 - Cédric Charlier Pre-Fall 2016 Collection, Alfredo Piola (2015) http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/ cedric-charlier/slideshow/collection#4 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 23 - Cédric Charlier Pre-Fall 2016 Collection, Alfredo Piola (2015) http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/ cedric-charlier/slideshow/collection#14 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 24 - Calvin Klein Grunge and Glory, Steven Meisel (1992) https://jazzymanner.files.wordpress.com/2015/07/tumblr_n5qpkz2tdo1qzdiqvo4_1280.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 25 - Pinterest, Nike Transparent Jacket (Unknown) (Link no longer available) Figure 26 - Edited, Cottweiler (2015) http://automatic-weapons.tumblr.com/image/86207191979 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 27 - Adidas by Stella McCartney (2015) (Link no longer available) Figure 28 - Adidas by Stella McCartney (2015) (Link no longer available) Figure 29 - André Courrèges, William Laxton (1960’s) https://s-mediacache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/14/6c/79/146c79d6c77382d8ab35b11b395c94b2.png Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 30 - Gamu Moyo Fall 2015, Unknown (2015) http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oW6UOX0IUvQ/VfkTO842MbI/AAAAAAAAEuo/Yzz0rv237tM/s1600/LOOK_07_021.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016
Figure 13 - Saint Laurent Fall 2016, Marcus Tondo (2016) http://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/saint-laurent/slideshow/details#104 Last accessed 12th May 2016
Figure 31 - André Courrèges, William Laxton (1960’s) http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zhJB5pActGQ/VbJuUOt3ekI/AAAAAAABrIs/KIM3XHb5HQw/s1600/Andr%25C3%25A9%2BCourr%25C3%25A8ges%2B-%2BSpace%2BAge%2B%25283%2529.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016
Figure 14 - Area Fall 2016, Charlotte Wales (2016) http://www.vogue. com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/area/slideshow/collection#6 Last accessed 12th May 2016
Figure 32 - Wang x H&M, Unknown (2015) http://lionlionbazaar.com/ wp-content/uploads/2014/11/MG_9712.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016
Figure 15 - Gucci Pre-Fall 2016 (2015) http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/gucci/slideshow/collection#17 Last accessed 12th May 2016
Figure 33 - Edited, Collage (2016) Figure 34 - Adrianne Ho for North Face x Supreme (2015) https://
www.bloglovin.com/blogs/sweat-style-11252059/city-slicker-4622424648 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 35 - Adrianne Ho for North Face x Supreme (2015) http:// frame.bloglovin.com/?post=4622424648&group=0&frame_type=a&context=&context_ids=&feed_order=&blog=11252059&frame=1&click=0&user=0 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 36 - Street Style Paris Fashion Week, Kuba Dabrowski (2015) https://pmcwwd.files.wordpress.com/2015/09/801-taw-pfw-s16-day2. jpg?w=1024 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 37 - Model Polaroid, Oyster Mag, Chloe Hill (2016) http:// www.oystermag.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/slider-gallery-980x650/images/1_oyster_casting_call_feat_memu_at_fivetwenty_model_management.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 38 - Nun Bangkok, Pygmy Owl Shorts (2016) http://cdn. shopify.com/s/files/1/0751/0723/products/F74A1288cropbottoms_1024x1024.jpg?v=1435794164 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 39 - Michi Black Dynasty Mesh Zip-up Jacket (Unkown) http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/main/ProductDetail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524446809306 Last accessed 12th May 2016 Fig 40 - Mesh Insert Shorts (Unknown) (Link no longer available) Figure 41 - Pinterest (Unkown) (Link no longer available) Figure 42 - Orange Metal Mesh with Round Holes Texture (Unknown) http://www.photos-public-domain.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/ orange-metal-mesh-with-round-holes-texture.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 43 - Lululemon (2015) https://amberrosepullen.files.wordpress. com/2015/03/3f1a2aecd21a7fd05c88ace1746d3ad0.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 44 - Nike Berwuda Mid QS (2015) http://media.endclothing. com/media/catalog/product/cache/0/thumbnail/1000x1000/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/0/10-01-2014_nike_berwudamidqs_blackorange_5.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 45 - Greene St Juice Co, Travis Walton (2015) http://www. australiandesignreview.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Greene-StJuice1.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 46 - Bikini Berlin, Katie Hamilton (2016) Figure 47 - Salvaged Wood (Unknown) (Link no longer available) Figure 48 - Fig 48 - Hostem Store, London, WeAr Magazine (2015) Figure 49 - Ai Weiwei, Fragments (2005) https://d1inegp6v2yuxm. cloudfront.net/royal-academy/image/upload/c_limit,dpr_1.0,f_auto,w_950/veckwf9jts9g6c1q3rbq.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 50 - Ai Weiwei, Bang (2010) http://www.deutscher-pavillon. org/2013/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/DP_view19.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 51 - Berkenbast bloempotten, Marij Hessel (Unknown) https:// entermyattic.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/DSC_9899-570x851. png Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 52 - & Other Stories, Katie Hamilton (2016) Figure 53 - & Other Stories, Katie Hamilton (2016) Figure 54 - & Other Stories, Prepping for a shoot in the Paris At-
elier (2016) https://www.facebook.com/andotherstories/photos /a.467796939939707.129364.316228488429887/1081169675269094/?type=3&theater Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 55 - & Other Stories, Facebook (2016) https:// www.facebook.com/andotherstories/photos/ pb.316228488429887.-2207520000.1463088998./1108462012539860/?type=3&theater Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 56 - 25 Hours Hotel Berlin (2014) http://i0.wp.com/berlinlovesyou.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/neni3.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 57 - Premium Trade Show, Katie Hamilton (2016) Figure 58 - Wire Wall Grid, Urban Outfitters (Unknown) http://images.urbanoutfitters.com/is/image/UrbanOutfitters/36310332_001_e?$xlarge$&defaultImage= Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 59 - Hanging Clips, Urban Outfitters (Unknown) http://images. urbanoutfitters.com/is/image/UrbanOutfitters/36821403_007_d?$xlarge$&defaultImage= Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 60 - & Other Stories Hangers, Hayley Mills (2013) http:// payload142.cargocollective.com/1/2/95036/5147956/--Other-Stories7_905.jpg Last accessed 12th May 2016 Figure 61 - & Other Stories Hangers, Katie Hamilton (2016)
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ELLIE MCALLISTER