Natural Fibres – where we are today

No one could have predicted the events that would turn the world upside down in 2020. But the underling position of speciality fibres remains relatively intact according to Luca Alvigini of Alpha Tops in Biella. ‘Generally

Luca Alvigini the outlook for speciality fibres remains positive,’ he says. Natural fibres represent only 2% of total textile fibre consumption so demand will be sustained. ‘All textile fibres have experienced price reductions in 2020 and on the basis of these current price levels we feel there should be a market for speciality fibres. Of course, niche products are always subject to cyclical fluctuations’, he comments. ‘After the recent lockdown with subsequent 3 months of total consumer absence, there should surely be a basis for sound demand, maybe not in the short term, but probably in 2021/2022’.

Luca Alvigini believes ecologic and traceable issues will play a major role in decision making at retail beyond COVID-19. Effective marketing strategies and good information can make a difference. A return to natural and environmentally sustainable products, and with a “story”, will provide a leading edge, when customers make their purchasing choices.

An estimate of current production figures for speciality fibres worldwide is Cashmere (basis dehaired) China 4 mil kgs; Mongolia 4 mil kgs; Alpaca (basis tops) 5 mil kgs; Mohair (basis tops) 3 mil kgs; Vicuna (basis dehaired) 10 tonnes. ‘Alpaca prices have reached a competitive level after peaking in 2018/2019 and compared to other fibers the clip quantity has been very consistent.

‘Mohair is very stable’, he says. ‘In drought conditions in South Africa

last year the clip has reduced by 10-15% and has resulted in finer microns. The price difference between coarse and fine qualities has widened resulting in more “correct” or shall we say more realistic prices. So demand balances the offering’. He further comments that ‘Vicuna is stable but future demand will depend on the ability of the luxury segment to respond post COVID-19. It is expected that as this fibre is used by top brands it will continue to find customer demand.

Cashmere probably still has to find a balance between supply and demand. The problem remains excessive price fluctuations and speculation. ‘So far we are finding that feedback from our customers is generally positive. There are also signs that attacks by animal rights and activist groups such as PETA, first against Mohair, then against Alpaca, are being addressed.’

Luca Alvigini is the current President of the International Association of Alpaca (IAA), a not-for-profit organisation created 36 years ago, with partners in all 5 continents. ‘Our aim for Alpaca is to generate shared values in sustainability and industry standards. Our farms and operation centres have their doors open to clients, visitors, authorities and certifiers. That transparency is what ensures the welfare of the animal and the reliability of the products’. 85% of the world population of alpaca is concentrated in the Peruvian Andes, in an ecosystem of extreme climates and natural pastures above 4,000 meters of altitude, where more than 90,000 rural families with low incomes subsist, challenging these natural conditions and giving value to its precious fibre. The government of Peru is in the process of commissioning new Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) on alpaca to ensure that it is fairly ranked. It argues that until these are ready, the dubious score for alpaca being used on the Higg MSI should be removed immediately, so that factual information is available in technical terms about alpaca environmental credentials across its entire supply chain from farm to retail.

The South African mohair industry is working closely with Textile Exchange (RWS) to introduce world recognised standards for mohair production. The Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) was officially launched in March 2020.

The shearing of fur animals is an almost identical procedure in all species: the animal is taken from the pen, it is held, its hair is cut, and it is returned to the pen. The shearing of the alpaca is practically the same as that of the sheep, with the only difference that, being a larger animal, with longer legs and a little rougher and less docile than the sheep, it is held with a few ropes. However, the process is short and avoids hurting the animal. ‘We reject any form of animal abuse and we trust that the work we have been carrying out with the participation of all members of the production chain and government entities, will ensure a universal and responsible treatment of alpacas that guarantees their sustainability’, Luca Alvigini comments.