No Shortcuts to Mohair Tops Accreditation

Mike Brosnahan

Spinners and weavers that use mohair tops are increasingly putting fibre traceability and fibre credentials as central requirements. So, it is not surprising that Mohair South Africa has moved swiftly to join with Textile Exchange to certify the environmental credentials of mohair fibre similar to the RWS standard for wool. In March 2020 Textile Exchange released its Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) 1.0 that addresses the welfare of angora goats and the land they graze on.

The Standard outlines the best practices for mohair growers to ensure that mohair comes from farms with a progressive approach to managing land, and goats that have been treated responsibly. ‘We are committed to providing our worldwide customers with mohair tops that has the best environmental credentials’, says Mike Brosnahan, CEO of SAMIL Natural Fibres in Port Elizabeth. ‘Our customers will welcome an independent RMS certification’. SAMIL Combing has the capacity to process more than half of the Cape mohair clip as well as mohair from origins such as Lesotho, Texas and Australia. ‘We are only limited by the availability of the fibre, as mohair production has decreased dramatically in the past three decades,’ says Evert Vermeulen Head of SAMIL Tops Trading Division.

‘Mohair’s principle characteristics are similar to those of wool, however, it does possess other unique properties not found in any other type of fibre. Its lustre is the natural sheen in the fibre caused by the reflection of light, helping dyed mohair resist fading, and making it hard-wearing; its structure is durable, it can be twisted or bent without damage, making it the most durable of all animal fibres. It is almost non-flammable, and moisture retention qualities allow for moisture absorbency and breathability’, comments Evert Vermeulen.

Apart from the standard commercial range of tops available, SAMIL also makes every effort to supply speciality lots when requested by individual clients, such as smaller lots guaranteed from source to spinner.

SAMIL sources the bulk of its Cape and Lesotho mohair through auctions held at the Wool Exchange in Port Elizabeth. It also sources mohair from its own farms and emerging farmers that require support.

‘SAMIL has invested heavily in the latest processing technology. Our mill is dedicated to processing only mohair and is situated in the Eastern Cape, the heart of global mohair production. This enables us to offer the widest range of quality mohair tops for any application’, says Evert Vermeulen.