Wool Exporter by Ely Torres

Speciality Fibres & Yarns

Wool TRADE

international

TRADE Directory 2012-2013

s n io t lu o s n e iv r d Customer

es innovating NSC fibre to yarn promot lines. and efficient production and manufactures NSC fibre to yarn designs for yarns made of ns tio lu so of e ng ra e id w a s: natural or synthetic fibre es • Carding and Combing lin recombing lines • Defelting, blending and ations lines • Worsted spinning prepar • Tow to Top lines • Semi-worsted lines • Bast fibre lines

TEL. +33 (0)3 89 74 41 41 nsc@nsc.fr

www.nsc-fibretoyarn.com

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL

WTI Acknowledgements:

American Sheep Association (ASI) Ass. Nazionale del Commercio Laniero (Italy)

FROM THE EDITOR

Keeping the consumer in love with wool

Australian Council of Wool Exporters & Processors Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) British Wool Marketing Board (BWMB) Campaign for Wool (CfW) Canadian Wool Co-Operative Cape Wools South Africa China Wool Textile Association Federacion Lanera Argentina International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Mohair South Africa Nanjing Wool Market SGS Wool Testing Authority Wool Federation of Argentina Wool Testing Authority Europe Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa Contributors: Roberto Cardellino Bridgette Kelly Jessica Lewis Rebekah Malka Robert Wang Art & Design: Ely Torres Polyprint Pty Ltd Published by: International Trade Publications PO Box 11, Caulfield South Melbourne, Victoria 3162, Australia Tel: 61 3 9533 0627 Fax: 61 3 9533 0727 Email: info@woolnews.net Web: www.woolnews.net Editor:

It has not been an easy year for the wool industry. The world economic slump, Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s struggle with decreasing European orders and the uncertainty regarding long term wool prices are issues of concern to all. But it is not all bad news, consumers are still showing interest in wool and wool products and that is good news for all. It seems that finally the message that wool is a natural and environmentally friendly fibre is getting through to consumers. The focus should be to keep consumers interested in wool - and this is what the industry should concentrate its attention on achieving. The industry should take advantage of and capitalise on the expanding green movement and the move towards natural fibres. Wool should be a fibre of choice for a variety of applications including garments, carpets and interior textile. The Campaign for Wool (CfW), International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO), and the hard work by some individual companies in marketing and innovation are doing a great job toward achieving this outcome. We all know that as long as consumers are in love with wool, the wool industry will prosper. Market conditions in the USA are expected to improve. Immerging markets in countries such as Brazil, Russia and India will continue to be a key to sustainable global trade growth over coming years. As an example, in India the domestic market for textiles and clothing is expected to increase by 169% over the next 10 years. Welcome to the 2012/13 issue of WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL. We bring you features and opinions from industry players and reports from all major wool producing countries. Special features bring you the latest in woollen yarn, wool in bedding, wool testing, mohair, logistics, textile machinery and more. There is a lot to read in WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL so please do keep your copy to browse through at your leisure over the coming months. We hope you enjoy the read.

Victor Chesky Front cover: Courtesy www.momentos.co.za

Victor Chesky Editor Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 1

IN THIS ISSUE

Contents 98 Mohair 106 Wool Logistics

8 Supply & Demand 2013 and beyond?

will world wool production satisfy demand and what does this mean for wool prices

Transportation options by KESDISTRI

106 Wool in Bedding

10 Campaign for Wool

12 Learning from the past

Fibre of choice for consumers

What is coming up, and when

Jo Dawson’s vision of the future

14 Wool prices - How much is too much?

Claudio Lacchio - the most important thing is demand rather than price

16 IWTO

IWTO-Pivotal role by Peter Ackroyd Challenges and opportunities by Elisabeth van Delden

20 Italian luxury sportswear REWOOLUTION fabric from REDA

26 China Wool Industry

tough time for China’s topmakers - soft landing expected

46 Yarn

Customers seek innovative yarn

106 Textile Machinery

Latest technology for NSC, Tecnomeccania, Sant’ Andrea, Valvan & Gualchierani

106 Wool Testing

Predicting outcomes in wool processing electronic certification

Country Reports

23 USA

Looking to increase export markets

27 Japan

One company’s pursuit of excellence

28 UK

Wool chosen by manufacturers for good reason

80 Australia

Wool production forecast to reach 350 mkg in 2012/13

90 South Africa

Prices stable at high levels

102 Argentina

More positive outlook for the future

55 New Zealand

108 Germany

70 China

113 Canada

Offering the best in scoured wool

Challenging times for wool industry

The best of Germany wool on display

6 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Wool used for a range of applications

114 Georgia

126 Italy

116 Hungary

130 India

118 Russia

162 Uruguay

Moving toward Europe

Merino wool gains momentum

Alternative wool supplies important

120 Belgium

Bedding consumers demand wool

122 Turkey

Europe’s fastest growing economy

New executive for wool association

Jaya Shree seizing opportunities beyond its borders

Wool production to increase in 2012-2013

Wool Direct Specialising in Carbonised wool to the world that includes Loose Wool Super Wash (LWSW) capabilities in China High quality Australian Carbonised wool supplying both the apparel and felting industries Production control, all factories are 100% owned and controlled by Michell

For more information on the extensive range of services available Tel: +61 8 8209 4400 Email: michell@michell.com.au michellwool.com

INDUSTRY

ForecastING 2012-13

Supply & Demand

& beyond

by Victor Chesky

A weaker consumer demand from the EU is causing concern for the wool industry worldwide. China’s main processors and manufacturers of woollen goods are finding it difficult to get orders from European buyers. China accounts for nearly 40% of global wool consumption, with 25% of all globally installed long staple spindles and 20% of wool looms. So the slowdown in China will impact throughout the wool pipeline. But it is expected that wool prices will remain stable due to low wool production worldwide. So let’s look at where wool production is going in 2012-2013.

ool production in Australia is expected to remain at 345 - 350 mkg, basically unchanged from last year. Australia is the largest supplier of apparel wool in the world with over 75% of its clip going to China, followed by Italy and India. Overall Australian wool exports were down by 10.7% in weight but up by 13.9% in value. According to a report released by the Federation of Australian Wool Organisations Inc at IWTO Congress in 2012, despite the very good prices Australian farmers have enjoyed in the last 18 months there will be no rapid increase in sheep numbers and wool production. In many other wool producing countries, a number of wool growers have moved out of sheep farming to pursue other farming enterprises that are currently more lucrative. According to Australian Wool Testing Authority data the micron profile of Australian wool has been changing. There has been an increase in finer wool and crossbred wool (28 - 32 + 8 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

micron) production, and a reduction in mid micron wool. New Zealand is the world’s third largest wool producing country, and is the biggest supplier of coarser wools. In 2011-2012, despite the high prices that NZ wool farmers received for their wool, it is expected that production in 2012-2013 will fall by 1.5% to 131,000 tonnes. It is also expected to decline in the 20132014 year even further to 128,000 tonnes. This is mainly due to farmers slaughtering more sheep as the demand for sheep meat increases. South African wool production in 2011-2012 was 28,000 tonnes, a fall of 6.7%, due to an outbreak of Rift Valley Fever, foot-and-mouth disease and more notably predators that are killing stock. Most of the disease issues have been alleviated and it is expected that South Africa will reach 30,000 tonnes by 2013-2014. (See South Africa Report in this magazine). Argentina is forecasting a modest rise

in sheep numbers to 12.6 million and production is expected to reach 28,000 tonnes in 2012-2013. Sheep farming in Argentina is under strong competition from other farming types such as food crops, cattle, and others that are more profitable. It is expected that wool production will drop in 2013-2014 to 27,000 tonnes. Wool production in Uruguay fell by 6% in 2010-2011. But it is expected to increase slightly in 2012-2013 due to increased fleece weight. (See Uruguay Report in this magazine). UK wool production is not expected to change from last year at 26,000 tonnes and will remain stable for the next two seasons into 2013-14. According to a report released by the Economist Intelligence Unit published earlier this year total world wool production in 2012 - 2013 is expected to be 1,055,000 tonnes and consumption is expected to be 1,045,000 tonnes.

Demand Demand from China, the largest consumer, is expected to remain weak until Europe sorts out its economic woes and consumers feel more confident. The recovery in the USA is a positive sign, but it should be pointed out that it is Europe that is the biggest buyer of wool products, whereas the USA is more cotton driven. On the positive side, China’s wool processing industry has continued

INDUSTRY

Australian wool sold at auction in Melbourne

to invest and upgrade in textile machinery, and to keep this machinery running it will need to continue to import wool. European wool consumption is expected to remain the same, particularly for woven worsted apparel. Japan and the US are no longer primary wool consumers, although both countries are significant retail consumers. Wool yarn output in Japan in January-October 2011 rose by 9.2% year on year to 8,500 tonnes, and wool fabric output increased by 10.4% to 923m sq metres. Given the small volumes, raw wool consumption is forecast to remain unchanged at around 10,000 tonnes in both 2011/12 and 2012/13, before falling to 9,000 tonnes in 2013/14. In the US, total imports of wool textiles and apparel last year reached 321m-sq metre equivalents, 2.3% lower than in the year-earlier period reflecting a lack of consumer confidence. US wool consumption is forecast to stay at 8,000 tonnes/year in the next two seasons, primarily as a result of purchasing by the

Department of Defence, which gives preference in procurement to domestically produced goods. The bulk of domestic consumption is for military use, particularly uniforms.

in the domestic textile sector and a

India consumed 82,000 tonnes of wool in 2011-2012. It is expected that recently introduced government incentives such as tax rebates for textile exporters, duty realignments and assistance for the textile sector to invest in upgrading of textile machinery will see wool consumption rise to 84,000 tonnes in 2012-2013, followed by further growth to 85,000 tonnes in 2013-2014.

government is trying to prop up

Turkish textile manufacturers have benefited by close proximity to European markets. Although European demand is weak government safeguard measures to support textile and apparel manufacturers will keep wool demand steady. Similar to 2011 46,000 tonnes is an expectation for 2012-2013.

at higher prices.

It is expected that the Russian market will stagnate in 2012-2013 and 201314 year. Wool consumption is forecast to remain flat at 15,000 tonnes. This is mostly due to low productivity

lower demand from consumers. There has been some recent talk about signs of recovery in the Russian textile sector and it is true that the Russian and rejuvenate wool production and textile factories. But this is still not enough to stimulate any real demand. In 2011 Russia produced 7.1 thousand tonnes of wool and although its wool production is on the increase, quality and contamination is an issue. Some Russian wool is exported to India and is sorted, classified, washed and processed, and certified and then sold There are 9 - 10 large wool scourers in Russia but the scouring machinery is of east European origin and very old. Some scours only operate on a seasonal basis. The total wool scoured in Russia in 2010/11 was 10 million kgs and about 20 million kg of wool was imported. Other countries such as Uzbekistan, which is heavily dependent on EU markets, is expected to see a slight fall in wool consumption. Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 9

CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL

Busy program ahead for CfW by John Thorley, OBE, Chairman CfW

he opportunity to update the world on the activities of the Campaign for Wool through the remarkably good offices of our friend Victor Chesky is always too good to miss and so I respond as usual with alacrity to his invitation to prepare an update on progress. I suppose one of the first things people will be interested to know is that our Royal Patron HRH The Prince of Wales has declared publicly that he is in the Campaign for Wool business

for the long run. This is important at least partly because initially there was some chat about the Campaign being concluded after a period of some five years. At the highly acclaimed and successful Wool Modern event last autumn, he made it abundantly clear that he would play a part in what he describes as “my Campaign” for a very long time. This provides the essential stability for the Campaign for Wool to establish itself and play a very

Countess of Wessex arriving at BWMB’s Head Office, being greeted by (left to right –BWMB’s Ian Hartley CEO, Hugh Blyth Vice Chairman, Malcolm Corbett Chairman)

significant role into the future to ensure a successful future for sheep farmers and the wool business around the world particularly in the more remote areas. There is more, reflecting the fact that Prince Charles’ broad spread of interests and royal duties allow a relatively small amount of his time for involvement with the Campaign for Wool, he has been kind enough to bring in the increasingly popular Countess of Wessex to work with the Campaign. Her Royal Highness The Countess made her debut with the Campaign for Wool by officially opening the new offices of the British Wool Marketing Board on 24th July. The opportunity was also taken to initiate her into the unique and highly technical world of wool processing. She found it fascinating and I’m sure will be a huge asset as the Campaign develops. Her background in Public Relations will be a great help and it will be interesting to see how her knowledge and talent in this area will be brought to bear on the Campaign. It does not of course mean that we will see any less of our Royal Patron The Prince. Already he has flown the Campaign flag in South Africa and will be visiting Australia and New Zealand in the autumn with again the opportunity being taken to ensure the Campaign for Wool will be well to the fore.

John Thorley OBE, Chairman The Campaign for Wool with HRH The Prince of Wales, on the campaign trail 10 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Plans are now being laid to stage Wool Week in many parts of the world during the 2012 autumn. In UK we kick off with Wool Week between 15th and 21st October by which time we will already have had events in many parts of the world – look out for dates there could well

CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL

be one happening close to you so watch our website. But that is only a part of the story – a great deal of work is taking place to stage an event to America which will be associated mainly with wool for interior use. It was started by some key influencers from the interior sector being invited to Highgrove (the country home of Their Royal Highnesses The Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall) to spend some time in his truly magnificent gardens and then to meet the man himself. To say the meeting was electric would be an understatement. No-one who meets The Prince can fail to be impressed by his deep knowledge and understanding of town and country but above all by the quiet passion and enthusiasm which he brings to the business of wool production and its uses. The result has seen a number of ideas being discussed for the promotion of wool in the States but a particular idea for an interiors event this autumn. We’re not quite there yet but as soon as we’ve got time, date and place – we will be delighted to tell the world. Then we’re planning a full blown event in March 2013 which though designed to maximise the opportunity to showcase wool in interiors will also have a very significant input from fashion as well as many other applications including more exotic developments including that of the automotive world. That the whole Campaign remains as fascinating as it was when the idea was first mooted is just a straight forward statement of plain fact. The more we get into it the greater the opportunities to make a huge difference become clear. It is also clear that there is a true global shortage of quality wool and a growing demand – no earthly reason therefore why prices should dip and every reason for them to be firm.

Scientists clone rare cashmere goat SCIENTISTS say they have cloned a rare Himalayan goat in Indian-controlled Kashmir, hoping to help increase the number of animals famed for their silky soft undercoats used to make pashmina wool.

he birth of female kid “Noori”, which means “light” in Arabic, could spark breeding programs across the region and mass production of the high-priced cashmere wool, said lead project scientist Riaz Ahmad Shah, a veterinarian in the animal biotechnology centre of Sher-iKashmir University. Cashmere wool, particularly made into shawls, is a major source of income for Kashmir, generating about $US80 million ($76.8 million) a year for the Indiancontrolled portion of the disputed mountain state. A shawl can cost $US200 in Kashmir and much more when sold abroad - a boon given the average salary of $US800 a year for Kashmir’s 10.2 million people. Cashmere goats - which take their name from the Kashmir region but include a number of breeds that produce the soft wool - are traditionally herded in small numbers across the Himalayas and the Tibetan plateau in cold and remote mountain areas. They must live in harsh, windy climates to generate the soft undercoat, for which demand has always exceeded supply. Kashmir’s goats are found in small populations in remote areas of the northwest border region of Ladakh. Experts say their numbers

are dwindling. In recent years, Kashmir has started importing cashmere from neighbouring China to keep up with orders for the region’s hand-woven shawls. “We’ve standardised the procedure. Now it will take us half a year to produce another,” said Maajid Hassan, another veterinarian who worked on the project, which was partly funded by the World Bank. The team has started work on more clones among the university’s herd of goats. “This is the cheapest, easier and less time-consuming” method of cloning, compared with conventional methods that use high-tech machinery and sometimes chemicals, Shah said. Noori is the first cashmere goat cloned by this method, although Shah earlier cloned a buffalo. Source: www.news.com.au

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 11

INDUSTRY

Learning from the Past Investing in the Future CEO of worldwide wool supplier H. Dawson Wool, Elected Treasurer of the IWTO and Council committee member for the Campaign for Wool, Jo Dawson, has extensive knowledge of the global wool industry, and its challenges and its triumphs. Here he outlines his vision for the future of the international wool industry:

F Jo Dawson

or those of us who live and breathe wool, it can sometimes be difficult to take a step back and understand the industry from an outsider’s perspective; but it’s worth taking the time to do so. To understand why people choose – or don’t choose – wool – is the key to the success of wool in the years to come. The international wool industry is unique in that its history stretches back centuries and yet its future is almost limitless as long as demand is there and quality and quantity of supply is maintained. Growers, suppliers and those who use wool in their clothing designs, architectural projects and engineering innovations make an active choice in choosing wool, but I believe it’s the consumers who we really need to reach, to inform and educate them about wool attributes and benefits, which fit in beautifully with today’s green agenda and the focus on health and longevity. There’s no doubt in my mind

12 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

that modern consumers are now looking for products with genuine heritage, longevity and sustainable characteristics. The mere fact that wool garments don’t need to be washed as much as man-made equivalents leaves a lower carbon footprint. In addition consumers are more aware of renewable products rather than fibres made from finite oil reserves. The main challenge for those involved in the supply of wool for carpets for the next 12 months and beyond is to find a solution to redress the balance created by the persistent, aggressive marketing of polyester and polypropylene products. The textile industry as a whole is well-aware that the most sustainable, eco-friendly and reliable product is, and in my opinion always will be, wool, yet the consumer is being led to choose a chemical-based product when it comes to carpets, rugs and clothing. This is something we must urgently address, particularly

INDUSTRY

as landfill continues to be the enddestination of 90 per cent of carpets.

hilst there are challenges in some areas of the carpet market, we are generally finding that premium spinners and weavers are managing to push the higher raw material prices on, although in the mid-market there is reluctance from customers to pay that little bit extra for their product as, in the current climate, there are so many demands on their finances. The wool industry has also suffered in the past from in-fighting and unnecessary negativity between different factions of the wool supply chain; I believe this developed through a fear of competition from chemical-based producers rather than fear of healthy, internal challenges. It is very encouraging that wool growers and suppliers are coming together to create a united front under the banner of The Campaign for Wool led by HRH The Prince of Wales. This Campaign aims to raise awareness that many products a consumer buys are using the world’s finite resources like oil, to create products that would undoubtedly be better if they were derived from wool.

industry, The Campaign for Wool has made great steps in terms of highlighting the benefits and beauty of wool and I would urge everyone involved in the industry, from sheep farmer to fashion designer, to raise their support for the Campaign. Together we can continue to create a great deal of noise about why wool is the fibre of the past, the present and most importantly, the future.

the word about wool and its natural,

The wool industry is an incredibly powerful machine and has the ability to change opinion, challenge beliefs and offer consumers betterperforming products that are not only of very high quality, but are sourced responsibly and are better for both personal and environmental health and safety.

and architects about how wool can

I think we need to focus on an on-going initiative to inform and educate consumers about the natural, unique and inherent benefits of wool. Trends towards eco sourcing are really gathering pace and the wool industry is in a wonderful position to not only follow that trend, but also to take the lead.

them to find innovative ways to use it

With this in mind, it would appear that finer wool has found a level and demand seems to be reasonable, with the potential to increase in 2012 and 2013. Coarser wool is still in demand, however the strong marketing of polypropylene in the UK carpet sector and polyester elsewhere will slightly reduce demand for some grades of carpet wool. Overall this may be offset by continuing growth in demand in other carpet markets.

Because of the nature of wool and other natural textiles, I feel strongly that we need to utilise a multi-channel approach. Textiles are inherently tactile products and consumers need to be able to touch, feel, smell and understand before they buy. Due to the busy lives of consumers, they also need the choice of how they buy wool products, whether that’s online or in a physical shop. The whole process, from the grower to the end user, needs to be supported by strong media conversations – I see it as a combination of bricks and clicks.

Our industry supplies excellent products but has historically missed an opportunity in strongly promoting them. With the support of Prince Charles, major fashion houses and famous faces from the design

In the age of technology and enhanced ways of communication, the wool industry as a whole has to embrace the social media trend and engage our farmers and colleagues to work together to positively to spread

biodegradable, renewable sustainable qualities. It can be as simple as setting up a Twitter account as its instant, engaging, and international and offers an insight into an everchanging world. It is a key requirement for the wool industry to collaborate with and work to inform and educate designers be used in the fashion industry and the built environment. The IWTO recently undertook a project to educate leading architects about the benefits of wool, taking them to New Zealand to take part in workshops and design clinics. With their newfound knowledge of wool, we asked and the results were staggering!

hey used wool in ways even I could never imagine; to enhance the acoustics in

concert halls, as wall coverings, to build outside rooms and to create staircases. This year, the Campaign for Wool is undertaking a project linking design and retail in the UK and I feel strongly that the wool industry has the vision, passion and experience to lead many more of these sorts of collaborations in the future, and drive forward thinking activity. “It’s a great time for wool and to be involved in its further development is very exciting indeed. Every grower, supplier, user and consumer of wool is significant to the future of the world’s oldest fibre and to be able to make a choice about what we wear, live next to, sleep under and walk upon is incredibly powerful. I would urge everyone involved or interested in wool to find out more about its life enhancing and environmentally sensitive qualities and make sure its future in the world remains secure.” Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 13

INDUSTRY

How much is too by Victor Chesky

much

Wool prices have escalated dramatically since 2008 and the debate ‘how much is too much’ has been waging ever since. I caught up with Claudio Lacchio at the most recent IWTO Congress in New York to talk about wool prices and wool promotion. For most, Claudio Lacchio needs no introduction. But for those who don’t know him, Claudio Lacchio is the Managing Director at G. Schneider Group, one of the biggest processors of finest wool in the world with processing plants and offices in Italy, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Egypt and China. ‘What is important is strong demand rather than the cost of fibre’, says Claudio. ‘We should be working to promote our fibre. We should be talking it up not complaining that prices are too high. We should rejoice that prices are high, a high price reflects its value. You will not find delegates at a cotton conference complaining about high prices, they would be happy and so should we be’, he said. And regarding how much is too much? According to Claudio there is no such thing. He believes that price should be set by demand. We have an

Claudio Lacchio

14 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

open and transparent international trading market where the price is set by the buyer, who has determined its value and prepared to pay that price.

emphasises that wool should

Wool sales around the world are conducted in an open and transparent manner, in most cases through the auction system. Price is therefore driven by demand. We should not be interfering to manipulate prices by any means, he says.

should be promoted as a fibre of

‘If you look at the prices of finer wools in the early 1990s - that is some 20 years ago now - finer types were many times more expensive than they are today. If you look at just several years ago the prices were very low and the whole industry was depressed. What is better?’, he asks.

be accepted as a luxury fibre. ‘It represents just over 1% of fibre used worldwide and as such quality and value. When consumers go to brand shops such Nike and Adidas, their products command a premium because the consumer has been convinced that he is getting a superior brand - the consumer is convinced that he needs it and therefore he wants it irrespective of price. This is effective marketing’, says Claudio, ‘and we should be striving to achieve the same effective and successful outcome. Customers should expect that quality wool garments go hand in hand with higher prices’.

Further, he notes, lowered prices could well effect the way farmers view wool growing as a dependable income. If price continues to drop the profit in producing wool will weaken and farmers will turn to producing other commodities for a better return.

He argues that demand will come

While there are those who believe that lowering the price will increase demand Claudio firmly disagrees and argues that it is through promotion and the value of marketing that sales will be stimulated. Claudio

should be more about creating ways

once quality is understood and that decreasing price will only be detrimental to the industry. As a strong advocate of wool promotion to the consumer Claudio believes that wool conference debate to stimulate the profile of wool and compete against synthetics, to lift the status of wool as unique, environmentally friendly fibre of choice and I couldn’t agree more.

IWTO I.W.T.O.

IWTO - real people behind the scenes platforms to discuss changes and updates to the Red and White Books in relation to their specific areas of interest. The Commercial Technology Forum provides a platform for academic research papers.

nternational Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) is the global custodian of the rules and regulations governing the world wool industry. This includes trading instruments such as contracts and wool testing standards used for certification. IWTO also maintains regulations in arbitration, market information and statistics, licenses laboratories - the necessary tools to good business that our industry uses every day. Let’s take a look behind the scenes at some of the day-to-day workings of the IWTO, an organisation that seeks to ensure a trouble free trading environment for the wool industry around the world. You may not always be aware of the structure that has been put in place to help you to facilitate effective dayto-day trading. Various committees are run by real people spending time to put such practical aids in place for your convenience - from sales contracts, testing regulations and dispute resolution infrastructure the IWTO has created a well oiled machine. And, the real people behind this machine are working with passion and dedication and often volunteering their time to maintain and improve the outcome for wool trading around the world.

‘Each Group works within its own area bringing to members’ attention any recent developments on issues in test methods and specifications or instrument performance. The Committee is also involved in approving new testing equipment’, says Mr Jackson.

Michael Jackson

be addressed. For example, an issue developed in relation to accurate and acceptable standards in Super S labelling. Our work in creating infrastructure for international labelling laws gives manufacturers certainty and confidence and ensures that compliance is maintained. Such established international standards enable countries to effectively petition their own law makers, when necessary, in support of such initiatives, with far reaching implications’, says Mr Jackson who is also Managing Director at Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA). Super S labelling was discussed at the most recent IWTO Congress held in New York.

The Contracts and Specifications Committee (C&S) is one such working arm of the IWTO. Victor Chesky spoke with Michael Jackson, Chairman of this Committee to take a look at the work currently on its plate...

The C&S Committee operates 4 technical groups chaired respectively by Wian Heath (South Africa) - Raw Wool Group, G.S. Singh (India) - Sliver Group, Crisan Popescu (Professor at DWI RWTH Germany) Product Group and Chen Min (China) - Commercial Technology Forum.

‘There are always issues that need to

The technical groups provide

The Committees discuss changes and updates to such trading instruments as the Red and White Books, and create and coordinate ad hoc working groups who work on proposed new test methods throughout the year. They prepare the annual IWTO Congress technical sessions and share expertise with the membership. Any changes recommended by the Committee to existing rules and conditions are submitted for approval to the Assembly at IWTO general meetings. ‘It is worth pointing out that voting is made by countries that are members of IWTO - one country, one vote’. The work undertaken by these Committees are quite transparent and are for the benefit of all individual members and member countries within the IWTO framework, whether they are buyers or sellers. IWTO publishes submissions and reports in relation to proposed changes to regulations and reviews of the IWTO Blue Book (Arbitration Agreement and Standard Contracts) to ensure relevance to current practice. And these can be viewed on its website at www.iwto.org Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 15

IWTO I.W.T.O.

demonstrated in the interior textile presentation at the Congress in New York in May of this year.

I.W.T.O. by Peter Ackroyd, IWTO chairman

t has been a year since we wrote about the IWTOs pivotal role as the custodian of the rules, regulations and test methods of the wool textile industry. We underlined the importance of sound and respected rules as the cornerstone of a global campaign to promote the sustainability of wool for all its end uses. Since the Hangzhou Congress in May 2011, IWTO has prioritised its role as advocate for wool on the corridors of power in the main decision making capitals of the world. Being based in Brussels gives the organisation a distinct geographical and political advantage as much as the legislation enacted in the Belgium capital for the European Union is a major influence on legislation elsewhere in the world. At the wool round table in London last November, much time was spent on prioritising advocacy (formerly known as lobbying) projects. This work was begun at the specific request of the members of IWTO and our brief was to ensure that our work covered all end uses of wool as a lifestyle fibre. Since the last Congress in Hangzhou, IWTO’s Executive Committee appointed Elisabeth van Delden as Secretary General of the organisation. Elisabeth has a communications background which was immediately put to work on developing key advocacy projects for the industry. To assist Elisabeth in this task we will shortly be creating an advocacy advisory panel which will, in the first instance, be made up of key funders of our lobbying projects.

16 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

We began the task with a scheme to monitor policy on International and EU legislation about wool in order to discover the many areas where regulations, policies and standards give wool a competitive disadvantage in world markets. I must admit to being surprised at the extent of unfriendly legislation about wool that had been unaddressed over the years by Interlaine and IWTO – laws that were enacted on the very door steps of these Brussels based bodies. One immediate problem came to light when we realised that wool was still regarded as a waste product by the European Union and we are currently working to change EU Regulation EC 1069/2009 that treats wool as a waste and Regulation EC 142/2011 that impedes the import of greasy wool into the EU and its interstate transit. The world’s strong wool producers are particularly keen to codify and promote the benefits of wool carpets in both the domestic and contract business. Whilst not being the easiest of projects to coordinate we have reached a supply side consensus on how best to proceed. We are currently ‘recruiting’ carpet manufacturers to join the group who expressed a keen interest in the green agenda through highlighting wool in their stores and in their online communication – something that was admirably

The fine wool producers are keen to see the continuation of our work on the Super S scheme, the code of practice that sets a super number to a micron value. We aim to see the code accepted in European law just as it is currently part of the ‘Suit Labeling Act’ in the United States. Closely linked to this project is the Comfort Index Study which was carried out earlier this year by DWI in Aachen, Germany, work that sought to correct the assertion that Polyester suits possessed the same positive attributes as wool suits – something which is manifestly not the case. This project is in process and will hopefully produce the required result next year, ready for the research to be launched to the trade at Europe’s leading apparel fabric fair Première Vision in Paris in February 2013. Much of the discussions taken place at the London Wool Round Table and the New York Congress centred on the need for wool to have a recognized Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) that would include all end uses - a difficult if not impossible task to achieve, particularly as there are already 12 LCS’s lying on shelves in laboratories around the world. A newly formed IWTO steering group that represents the major wool growing nations of the world has decided that the best form of attack would be to engage an Environmental Credentials Manager who could provide, after due research and diligence, wool textile manufacturers and retailers with unassailable information on the sustainability of wool. Again, this is a project currently in process but one that has been prioritised in my first year of president for reasons which I trust you will fully understand – and which Elisabeth will explain in further detail on the following page.

IWTO I.W.T.O.

information space, the wool industry has an arguably unfortunate reputation, and therefore we have started work which we expect will lead to a better informed assessment of the environmental attributes of wool.

by Elisabeth van Delden Secretary General IWTO

n last year’s Wool Trade International edition the IWTO page included the headline “Challenges ahead for IWTO”. One year later, I am happy to report that we took on those challenges and created opportunities for the organisation to become strong, healthy and most important relevant for its members. Providing the industry an international platform to meet, discuss and network is still an important part of this organisation where members can fully experience IWTO in all its aspects. The successful IWTO Congress in New York in May 2012 proved this very well. We have also put different measures in place to better communicate to our members and stakeholders. The aim is to give more visibility to our work, encourage more active participation, and be transparent in everything we do on behalf of the industry. Executive Board member, Olivier Segard noted in last year’s edition, that “the more we look around, the more we recognize how much more we have to do to combat claims by synthetic and polyester lobby groups.” This is still very true and we have identified five key projects for IWTO to tackle these claims witch Peter Ackroyd touched on in his report. The five key projects in a nut shell are: 3 Changing the definition of untreated wool within the European Union to ease import and transport conditions for wool

3 One strong voice for wool carpets through effective advocacy and standards work 3 Registering the Super S scheme within EU legislation 3 Wool suits everyone – communicating the benefits of wool suits over polyester suits based on the Comfort Index Study 3 Developing the environmental credentials for the wool industry including Life Cycle Analysis for wool The industry’s most pressing project is the development of the environmental credentials for wool. Today’s textile consumers, designers, brands and retailers are exposed to a wide array of ‘environmental’ labels, fibre rating and certification schemes. In order for wool to access consumer markets in the future, the wool industry is under pressure to counter negative environmental impact assessments for which a Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) is part of the background information used. For LCA-based tools, as in any area of analysis, the quality of the outputs is to a large extent a reflection of the quality of the inputs – and the central challenge for tool designers, and the key assumption for users, is that the input data and assumptions are robust, and as soundly-based as possible. In this ‘environmental’

IWTO has recently partnered with AWI in conducting an expert review of all existing wool LCAs. The review was carried out by Dr. Beverley Henry of Australia’s Queensland University of Technology. Dr. Henry’s review identified 9 LCA’s which are available as published scientific papers or public reports, and critically analysed their scope, methodologies and assumptions. Recommendations were made in relation to consolidation and updating of these LCA’s, addressing methodological weaknesses, and filling data gaps. This will be a good resource for anyone interested in understanding what has been completed and published in the field of wool LCAs, and their limitations. Based on this review AWI has started addressing existing data gaps in regards to quantifying the carbon cycle on a number of commercial wool enterprises, across a wide range of environments including soil carbon. In addition AWI is addressing data gaps in product wear life and recycling, water inputs and discharges, as well as allocation methods. All data will be available for the wool industry’s LCA. Currently AWI plays a leading role in this space but other IWTO members are equally committed to support these efforts, which is vital to reaching the goal of rectifying the wool industry’s environmental credentials. We continue to look for contributions from the industry in support of all our efforts - not just this vitally important project currently underway. Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 17

IWTO I.W.T.O.

Excellence in Manufacturing Heritage for the Future

Eighty second IWTO Congress to be held in Biella, Italy from 19-21 June 2013

or the first time in the history of the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) the annual Congress takes place in Biella, Italy. “We are very proud to host the members of the international wool community in Biella, where wool has always played a very important role” notes Piercarlo Zedda, IWTO Vice President and past President of the Biella based Italian Wool Trade Association. The strong link between the wool industry and Biella is also mirrored in the Congress Theme “Excellence in Manufacturing - Heritage for the Future”, which was developed by the key Italian wool industry leaders, reflects the long history and state of the art expertise of Wool manufacturing in Biella-the foundation for a secure future in wool. The theme not only represents Biella, it also sends a clear message about the wool industry as a whole. Wool, despite being one of the oldest

18 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

fibres known to mankind, remains a modern natural fibre constantly adapting and fulfilling complex product scenarios for the world we live in today. The versatility of wool to meet modern standards is not only based on the perfection of the fibre itself but on the excellence built up over time within the industry. This is a story the wool industry tends to tell to itself rather than reaching out to the global consumers-an important observation at the last IWTO Congress in New York where the wool industry met and exchanged ideas with retailers and designers. The interaction with this important group of the industry will also be a focus point at the IWTO Congress in Biella. The Congress, the annual meeting place for wool industry leaders to develop industry strategy, to learn about future trends and network will take place from 19-21 June 2013. For more information visit www.iwto.org/events

INDUSTRY

Italian luxury in sportwear by Victor Chesky

The recent launch of REWOOLUTION avant-garde sports line has firmly established REDA as a fully integrated company from farm right through to the most advanced cutting edge fashion. REDA already has an unmatched reputation for designing and manufacturing the world’s best quality fabrics and has successfully launched REWOOLUTION, a 100% oil free line of sport clothing made from pure merino wool. According to Francesco Botto Poala CEO at REDA, this new REDA venture is part of a strategy to look at new markets for superfine wool. It complements the classic men’s high-end suit fabrics that REDA is already so well known for around the world.

I met with Francesco Botto at his

direct contact with the skin’, says Mr

office in Valle Mosso, Biella to catch

Botto. REWOOLUTION dispels any

up on this latest development.

unpleasant sensations of humidity

‘The new REWOOLUTION label for From left: Ercole, Guglielmo, Francesco, Fabrizio Botto

ACTIVEWEAR is made to be worn in

produced by the body in motion: the skin stays naturally dry and sudden changes in body temperature during sport are reduced. The process uses compACT³ technology treating pure merino wool fibres of 17.7 micron. This ensures that the fabric has a natural softness and is extra lightweight. Merino wool, unlike synthetic fibre guarantees a high moisture absorption rate. REWOOLUTION fabric absorbs over 35% more than its own weight, compared to synthetic fibre that can only absorb 5% of its own weight. REWOOLUTION sport garments are also antibacterial, hypoallergenic and are a perfect thermo-regulator. ‘Our new treatment of wool has taken this natural fibre to another level. But

20 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

INDUSTRY

this beginning. It is still run by family members Francesco, Guglielmo, Ercole and Fabrizio Botto. Today the company employs over 350 people. The plant in Biella operates 7 day a week. Offices are also located in Shanghai and Tokyo. In all, REDA produces some 6 million metres of fabric every year and has one of the most recognised range of fabrics in the world from the medium to top end market. Its fabric is used by such brands as Armani, Zegna, Polo RL, Hugo Boss, Canali and many others. 70% of fabric production is exported and 30% is sold within Italy. REDA has always been a flagship for Italian products. Reda is an authentic Made in Italy brand exported all over the world. It maintains a solid bond with its territory of origin and continues to this day to produce exclusively in Valle Mosso in the Biella province of Italy where the company was established almost 150 years ago. the uniqueness of REWOOLUTION sport garments is mostly due to the amazing natural attributes this fibre already has’, says Mr Botto. ‘Isn’t it ironic that the scientific advances in synthetic fibres simply try to imitate the natural characteristics wool already has? And isn’t it interesting that no matter how hard they try to mimic these characteristics they will always fall short’. REWOOLUTION cannot be copied by other manufacturers says Mr Botto. REDA controls the production process from the natural fleece to finished fabric and garment. ‘Our business philosophy has always been to control the production process from

fibre production to fabric. And the introduction of Rewoolution is just another step forward in our business philosophy’. The REDA story started in 1865 with Italian businessman Carlo Reda opening the first woollen mill in Biella. The company has continued to grow from

‘What has never changed is our commitment to the people and the local area in which we work and live, and of course our passion for wool. In order to preserve our natural heritage REDA has been awarded EMAS certification - this EU EcoManagement and Audit Scheme affords the highest environmental credentials’. REDA uses both New Zealand and Australian merino wool in its fabric. It sources its Australian merino wool through New England Wool (NEW), it’s own buying company in Australia, established more than 20 years ago. According to Mr Botto NEW is very important to REDA as it focuses on sourcing wool specific to its needs.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 21

INDUSTRY

Andrew Blanch, Managing Director at NEW runs offices in New Zealand, South Africa and Australia, ensuring that the supply pipeline runs smoothly. REDA sources the best and finest of New Zealand, Australian and South African wools, including wool from its own New Zealand farms. These three New Zealand farms produce quality merino wool and average in the 17.0 micron range. ‘In actual fact we are the only company in the world that is fully integrated from farm to cutting edge fashion. We are close to the growing of wool, classing of wool, and we are involved at every stage of the process after that. Our fabrics are labelled to prove

traceability to ensure the consumer can be certain of the origin of the fibre’. A complete commitment to quality in all facets of business; from the raw materials they procure to final fabric production, as well as the marketing, is the simple, but powerful pillar on which REDA has built its reputation. 12% of REDA turnover is reinvested into new machinery and equipment. ‘Quality is absolutely paramount to our company’, says Mr Botto. ‘We sometimes struggle to find textile machinery to produce the quality and speed and consistency we desire, but we only settle for the best available. Manufacturer of textile machinery will come to us when they want to check how their new

machinery is performing as it should’. ‘But in the end people are our biggest asset, from the commitment of the wool grower to grow the best and finest wool, to our expertise in processing this wool to the highest standards, and the know-how we have to produce the best yarn and then the best fabric - it all comes down to real people’. ‘Innovation, “green” sensibility and respect for local manufacturing heritage work for a more genuine Made in Italy concept. REWOOLUTION has “sewn together” the values of the past and those of the future’, concludes Francesco Botto Paolo.

EU to relax regulations to greasy wool imports and demands for special transport vehicles normally used for livestock animals. This causes delays for manufacturers and also increases costs to the entire wool chain.

Piercarlo Zedda

dvocacy by the (International Wool Textile Organisation) IWTO has gained recent headway in dealing with the costly and time consuming customs issues in importing greasy wool into Europe. Untreated (greasy) wool or hair is currently being stopped at customs in European ports and is subject to veterinary controls

22 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

A special committee spearheaded by Piercarlo Zedda Vice President of IWTO has been vigorously advocating for change and has been working with the EU to relax and simplify regulations to greasy wool imports. ‘We have been talking with members of the EU commission to discuss strategies on how to change the regulation that define wool as waste. The EU Commission agreed on a draft proposal together with the representatives of all EU member states who are in charge of veterinary controls in relation to 142/2011 in their EU country. The draft will now be translated into 23 languages and submitted to the EU Parliament and

EU council for approval before it can be implemented on national level within the EU’, says Mr Zedda. The draft proposal states that there will be no need to notify authorities of the transport of untreated wool and hair as long as it is securely enclosed in packaging, is dry, and is sent directly to the plant. This will lower veterinary costs for untreated wool and hair coming from certain “safe” countries such as Australia, New Zealand, US, Canada and parts of Argentina. ‘We are very pleased that our IWTO members will feel the benefits from this amendment and we remain vigilant in our advocacy for continuing improvements in this issue’, Mr Zedda concludes.

AMERICA

ASI Works to Increase Export Markets for U.S. Wool A vital element of the U.S. wool industry is the availability of export markets. The American Sheep Industry Association (ASI) has been working to build an international program for U.S. wool since 1989 with the assistance of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and a number of wool exporters and warehouses. Over the years, ASI has put programs in place to redirect wool purchases overseas and develop new customers. And those programs have been successful in that now approximately 50 percent to 65 percent of all the wool produced in America is exported, mostly to China and India with a decreasing amount to Europe.

ue to American wool’s diverse micron range, it is suitable for a wide variety of products including fine worsted suiting, knitwear, woolen coatings, upholstery, bedding materials, mattresses, comforters and industry products.

Terry Martin of Anodyne Wool

ASI began building the international program for U.S. wool in 1989 with funding assistance from the USDA’s Foreign Agriculture Service (FAS), and assistance from wool exporters and warehouses. By combining FAS and ASI funds, ASI has been able to put export programs in place to replace wool sales which were made to the U.S. textile industry, but lost with the drastic decline of U.S. textile production. While domestic wool customers are very important to the wool market, unfortunately, the domestic textile industry does not use all the wool that is produced in the United States. “ASI began the groundwork to develop international markets, making them available at a crucial time in the industry,” explains Rita Kourlis Samuelson, wool director

24 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Rick Powers of Lempriere (USA) Inc

for ASI. “In the late 90s, we knew the domestic wool market wasn’t as stable as it had been in the past so we changed our marketing programs. In the 1990s, we surveyed the world trying to find opportunities in which to match the needs of the U.S. wool industry and were able to focus our marketing program in 1998.” And finding opportunities, the program has done. Over the last five years, the average amount of wool that has been exported stands at 4,277 metric tonnes (clean) – 59 percent of the total U.S. wool production. Due to the fact the United States has a limited volume of wool available each year, the international wool marketing program is comprised of a niche marketing strategy that seeks buyers for specific wool types and matches U.S. supplies precisely to buyer needs. Some of these tactics include: • U.S. supplier missions to target markets during the off season to familiarize U.S. companies with market opportunities and requirements.

AMERICA

making to produce yarn. With one of America’s most efficient grading and handling operations, Greg Groeneworld, manager, says he is able to keep the business’ overhead low. The company also works with international freight forwarders to provide low-cost ocean shipping of containers. Each of their lots weigh approximately 20,000 lbs. (10,000 kg), two of these lots will fill a 40-foot ocean container.

• International buyer missions to major U.S. wool centers from March through June to enable potential customers to see U.S. wool potential for themselves. • Assistance with technical processing trials that focus on showing target companies optimum blending procedures to achieve the desired outcome. • The establishment of an on-ground presence with a representative to assist U.S. exporters and international buyers to expand U.S. wool purchases in key expanding markets such as China and India. Despite the global wool market downturn that occurred in late 2008 and early 2009, these international wool marketing tactics helped expand foreign market access for U.S. wool. The key has been maintaining a diverse market, which minimized the effects of the financial condition by keeping markets open in a variety of countries, not just China, the largest wool buyer. There are a handful of companies that export U.S. wool and that have played a part in developing new markets. Although it is one of the oldest remaining wool trading companies in the United States, 1983 marked the beginning of Anodyne Wool’s exportation of American wool. Trading in all U.S. wool types, Anodyne’s particular emphasis is on fine combing types and short cardings. “We always maintain a physical position in American wool,” says Terry Martin, Anodyne manager. “Therefore, we are adding and subtracting from that position on a monthly, weekly or daily basis depending on the market, which makes us one of the largest holders of American wool on any given day.” Lempriere (USA) Inc started exporting U.S. wool and top in 2004. In terms of an exporter, Rick Powers, trading manager, says the company is twofold in that they market raw wool to

Darrell Keese of Keese International LLC

overseas merchants and processors and that they are also top makers and provide U.S. top to processors. Although the company concentrates in the 21- to 24-micron range of Rambouillet and Targhee types, it does service and trade wools in all micron ranges. “Our goal is to supply our international buyers with the best quality wool to meet their specific needs and assist them with our processing knowledge,” says Powers. For the past 30 years, Groenewold Fur and Wool Co has been a direct source buyer of American wool. Most of Groenewold’s customers purchase 28- to 31.5-micron wools for top

Gary Groenewold

Keese International LLC started operations in 2006 and provides exporters with a uniform woolen product in a number of different micron ranges. Darrell Keese, owner of Keese International, says, “My expertise is in the woolen trade and we can provide our customers with scoured woolen products to fit their needs. I have many years of experience blending wools together.” With the ability to handle all micron ranges, the main lines that Keese handles are in the 20-micron to 32-micron range. “We find that U.S. wool gives yarn life or spring.” The U.S. wool exporters and warehouses have played a vital role in the success of the international wool program, explains Samuelson. “Without the warehouses and exporters implementing programs, sales would not be possible. And we recognize the pivotal role they have all played. ASI relies on their efforts in helping to improve the U.S. industry’s export expertise.” The one thing that is certain in the international wool market is change. ASI is continually seeking opportunities in new markets as the change in the location of woolmanufacturing entities occurs globally and in the United States. This adaptability to market changes is crucial for the survival of the U.S. raw-wool industry but it all hinges on the production of a quality wool clip. Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 25

INDUSTRY

Soft landing for China wool industry 2012 has been a very tough year for the global wool textile industry. Since entering the new year, the wool market took a sharp turn compared with 2011. This has been due to the unsettled economic situation in Europe. The prolonged crisis and recession in EU countries resulted in a reduced demand for wool products in the new season earlier this year. In turn, the wool textile manufacturing industry is China has suffered the most. Lack of orders from the spring and summer season in 2012 from the traditional European market has resulted in the decline in the export of textile products from China by more than 30% in the first half of this year. Such an unprecedented reduction in a short period of time has been a major blow to the Chinese wool textile industry. As a result, most of the profit generated in the last 18 months has been wiped out. Reduced production, workforce lay-offs and other means of cost reductions have been seen in much of wool textile manufacturing bases such as Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shandong provinces. On the other hand, after more than 20 years of miraculous development the Chinese economy has also come to a soft landing. Although it is still far from running out of the steam, the global financial crisis has eventually has it tolls in China. Slow down GDP development this year in China means less government spending and much tougher budgetary restrictions which in turn to lead reduced demand for corporate uniforms where most of the wool garments are ordered in the past. It is obvious now that both the global and domestic slow down have resulted in a strong impact on the wool textile manufacturing sector in China. Moreover, there is no sign of improvement for the second half 26 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

by Robert Wang China Manager AWTA

now moved to fat lamb production than wool because of the fast turnaround rate and higher profit margin. The continuation in high wool prices can only be expected to continue if the equilibrium in supply and demand does not change. But the signs so far that both supply and demand is shrinking is not a healthy sign at all.

of this year given the continued economic and political turbulences in Europe and slow recovery in USA. The industry remains pessimistic for the time being. Unless we can see a significant improvement in global demand before the end of this year, further deterioration for both wool production and wool textile manufacturing will be almost certain. Wool prices in Australia, however, has somehow maintained at a high level despite the sharp decrease in demand. This is because the historical low supply of wool is still the case in Australia. A small predicted increase of wool production in Australia for 2011/12 has not been realised. Instead, more sheep breeders have

Up until now, China has kept buying almost 80% of the Australian wool clip. The tough time that the Chinese wool textile industry is facing will severely impact the Australian wool production for the next seasons of more. When the new season starts, if the global situation still remains gloomy, the Australian wool industry will be pushed into the cross roads again. Chinese manufacturers very much wish the wool production in Australia can be further improved. However, the pipeline needs its most important player, Europe, to come forward again. Without consumption, without demand and without support from the end users, all other efforts will be wasted. To this end, we are desperately hoping that Europe will gradually get back onto its feet again.

JAPAN

Argo International – the pursuit of excellence ‘Our job is to seek the best use for each fibre, and to invent and bring to the attention of manufacturers such innovative concepts to inspire them to manufacture beautiful fabric’ says Toshiaki Ogura, President at Argo International. Mr Ogura is known throughout the textile world as Aki.

rgo International is a Japanese company well known for its innovative use of wool and speciality fibre of the finest quality. It offers fabric manufacturers innovative use of natural fibres including Vicuna, Alpaca, Mohair, Wool, Silk, Cotton and Linen and other speciality fibres. It also consults in the use of textiles to the textile, cosmetics, and medical markets in scoured, carbonized tops and yarn as well as fabrics made to customer specification.

suppliers in South Africa, Australia and Peru. To us at Argo business is still creative work, undertaken by an artist with a passion for innovation and the love of natural fibre. The unique qualities can only come from these natural fibres, they cannot be imitated by man made fibres without the result being an inferior product’.

‘Our selected clients worldwide require high quality speciality fibres to produce superior quality yarn and cloth. We are quite unique in that we are constantly striving to obtain and develop the best product available. We have deliberately taken the name of the Argo, the Greek vessel that set sail on its quest for the Golden Fleece.’

Argo International works closely with fibre producers in South America, Australia, Peru and South Africa, always seeking high quality fibres that could be developed in exclusive fashion garments as well as in furniture upholstery and other textile applications.

‘Our strength as a company lies in our ability to be at the forefront of innovation. At present we are the only supplier of melted amino acid of various natural fibres in various fields. We are now engaged in a special study with several universities in Japan in the use of natural fibres for use as artificial blood vessel. And recently, in cooperation with the Thai Government we have been discussing ways in which to produce and export Cassava Silk’.

Aki Ogura can be contacted at aki@argo-int.jp or office@argo-int.jp

Mr Ogura has been in the textile business for some 35 years and during this time has served as President of the International Alpaca Association and President of the Mohair Association. Another issue that Mr Ogura is also a strong advocate for is traceability of fibre and stemming misleading labeling. According to Mr Ogura it is often difficult to know what is a 100% natural product and what is imitation because labeling is confusing and misleading and purchasers do not know what they are buying. ‘It seems that today everyone is blending their fibre and the result is an inferior produce of poorer quality’, says Mr Ogura. ‘To know where to source the best fibre in the world and to know where to spin it and weave it, is as important today as it was 30 years ago. The consumer is willing to pay extra for natural, quality products. ‘‘At Argo International we provide traceability from Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 27

UNITED KINGDOM

2011/12 was probably the best sheep year for UK farmers in terms of financial returns, i.e. for both meat and wool, for a considerable number of years. by: Ian Hartley CEO British Wool Marketing Board

he Board does not control, nor have any influence on, the size of the wool clip. As with the rest of Europe, the amount of wool in the UK is determined by the production, and price, of sheep meat. Between 2007 and 2009 the lack of profitability from sheep production meant a rapid decline in sheep numbers. However, from the latter half of 2010 into 2012 the sheep livestock sector became profitable with very high lamb prices and a consequent increase in sheep numbers. In the year to 30 April 2012 the clip handled by the Board increased by 6% to 30.2 m kg. We believe the clip is likely to increase again next year, especially when taking into account the late start to shearing this season because of the poor weather, and we anticipate that the clip will follow this trend of small increases in clip size over the next few years.

Wool in a favourable position to gain advantage within the current consumer market.

The BWMB returns the auction price back to its producers, averaging out the prices over the season. For 2011/12 this has meant that farmer prices have been the highest level for a considerable number of years, reflecting a very buoyant market early in the season with demand high, and good sale clearances. Sales auction prices and clearances in the latter half of the season have been more difficult and currently, at the start of the new season in July, we are still experiencing a challenging situation. Although current trading conditions are difficult, we expect prices to recover and we have set our reserve policy to reflect that. The BWMB is a farmer organisation, based on cooperative principles, and it is essential that we keep wool prices at sustainable levels. We believe it is important for the whole industry that wool prices are maintained to ensure continuity of supply into an ever competitive market. This position will be aided by our marketing and promotional policies. A growing trend towards natural, sustainable fibres has placed British

28 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

If we are to keep wool prices at sustainable levels, it is essential we continue to work closely with the global textile industry to promote and to educate consumers about the unique attributes and benefit of the fibre. The BWMB has been an integral player in the Campaign for Wool, launched by HRH The Prince of Wales in January 2010. The Campaign has created an increased demand for wool products, and the textile industry is keen to satisfy the appetite which is being driven by the widespread media coverage and retail promotion. This year in the UK alone over 200 major brand retailers signed up and participated in the Campaign. The Campaign last year had international launches in Japan, Germany, Holland, Australia and New Zealand, and already further global expansion is planned for 2012, particularly in USA and China. The Campaign has already achieved far more than we originally envisaged and we have now put the Campaign at the heart of our promotional strategy going forward over the next few years. We need to ensure the momentum of the Campaign is continued as we take it to even more international markets over the next few years.

UNITED KINGDOM

Heritage & tradition

Planet friendly

Created by you

Centuries of wool production. A small island with a huge terrain and a wild climate. Delivering beautiful, strong wool.

Natural, sustainable, carbon efďŹ cient and environmentally assessed. Because it matters for our future.

Stunning products from a quality ďŹ bre guaranteed to inspire. Quite simply, a work of art.

British Wool: Our heritage is a work of art With over 60 different sheep breeds and long-standing tradition British Wool is truly exceptional. No other country can offer as much choice in shade and texture. Our sheep are born free to roam and produce wool that is recognised as the strongest and most durable wool in the world today. Naturally renewable British wool offers strength, durability and long lasting appearance retention to carpet.

PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

With our heritage you can create a work of art. www.britishwool.org.uk

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 29

UNITED KINGDOM

Standard Wool UK

Getting it right the first time

2011 was a good year for Standard Wool UK but this company does not take anything for granted. ‘We expect that 2012 2013 will be a little tougher but we are not daunted’, says Paul Hughes, Group Managing Director.

he company remains one of the biggest buyers of British wool at auctions operated by the British Wool Marketing Board last season. Standard Wool UK provides a consistent, reliable supply to the European carpet trade as well as supplying scoured and greasy wool of all origins, top making wools, and noils. Standard Wool UK also has an office in Nanjing, China through which British, Chilean greasy, scoured wool and wools of other origins are traded. ‘The company is committed to sourcing, processing and supplying superior quality wools and byproducts, including the company’s latest organically produced UK blends’, says Mr Hughes. From speciality wools and stock blends to unique bespoke mixtures, Standard Wool UK converts greasy wool into a variety of clean and consistent finished products to match customer requirements. ‘And our sales team make it their business to ensure products are delivered on time, and that the convenience which

30 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

comes from using our own scouring facilities translates into genuine flexibility on delivery and turnaround times’, says Richard Moore who manages sales of all Standard Wool products in the Far East. Compliance with ISO14001:2004 attests to guarantees that environmental standards are high. Closely monitored and carefully controlled waste disposal mean customers can be satisfied that the strict requirements of the Environment Agency are met. Standard Wool UK is also focused on employing a new and younger management team. ‘Passion is a prerequisite’, says Mr Hughes. ‘We are training for the future. We have been in the business for more than 30 years but we are alert to adapting where necessary to remain competitive and reliable’. Thomas Chadwick & Sons is the scouring division of Standard Wool in the UK. It supplies scoured wools, predominantly for the carpet industry and finer wools for the apparel sector. It has been awarded ISO 14001 2004 environmental management certification for the processing of organic wool. These wools are becoming increasingly popular with bedding and futon manufacturers worldwide. The company investment in extra dedusting machinery has resulted in a cleaner whiter wool. ‘Our clients appreciate the results that are achieved by using this new machinery’, says Mr Moore.

Standard Wool Where we lead, others follow. With over 200 years industry experience, state-of-the-art technology and servicing more than 30 countries world wide, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not surprising more and more customers are turning to us for all their wool requirements. WWW.STANDARD-WOOL.CO.UK

STANDARD WOOL (UK) +44 (0)1274 756600

STANDARD WOOL (Nanjing) +86 25 5807 1182

Passionate about wool

UNITED KINGDOM

Wool Chile (SWCH) is a fully owned subsidiary of Standard Wool UK and is the largest purchaser of the Chilean clip. It has access to the best quality wools at the best possible prices, and typically accounts for the purchase of 60% of the country’s entire annual clip. It takes 6 million kg greasy from Chile and other countries in the region and offers tops, noils, greasy wool and scoured wool to the international market. The bulk of the production is shipped by container to key markets in Italy, UK, China, USA, Japan, Iran, Spain, and Turkey amongst others.

Dean Sugden General Manager Standard Wool Chile

Quality Tops & Scoured Wool from Standard Wool Chile Standard Wool UK has been a major force in Chile for some 100 years. It has a scouring and combing plant in Punta Arenas in the heart of the Magallanes region of Chile and has been a major influence in the promotion of Chilean Corriedale and Merino fleece wools. Standard

The plant is equipped with modern French carding and combing machinery and has a 2.4m wide Andar 6 bowl scouring line with a 3 stage Alfa Laval wool grease recovery plant. A modern effluent treatment system is used for the treatment of waste water. The plant has a capacity of 4 million kilos of product. Quality control is carried out in house with an Interwoollabs accredited laboratory with modern equipment including laserscan micron measurement. Mr Sugden, General Manager says, ‘our company has a long-standing relationship with farmers throughout Chile and has extensive knowledge of the different wools produced by

Sales executives - Andrew Jones & Richard Moore

each farm. We source from over 500 farms and buy most of our raw material directly from the farmers by private negotiation. The other popular method is on a sealed bid tender basis’. This knowledge and relationship with the producers allows wool types to be selected to guarantee standard, high quality products. The most important wools in terms of quantity and quality are produced in the south of the country. The wool is generally 20 - 30 microns of snow white colour and has exceptional characteristics for length, strength, handle, and low VM. It is especially popular for knitwear manufacture. The tops processed by Standard Wool (Chile) meet the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 - Product Class 1.

Standard Wool Chile plant with a capacity to process 4.5 million kg noils, tops and scoured wool 32 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

For more information contact Dean Sugden at dsugden@standardwool.co.uk Or Richard Moore at rmoore@standard-wool.co.uk Or visit the website at www.standard-wool.co.uk Tel. + 44 1274756600 Fax. + 44 1274756610

UNITED KINGDOM

Swan Wool Europe

he global wool industry continues to show its resilience in the face of uncertain economic times. While demand for wool in the past year was steady, there was a penchant for running down inventories before placing new orders. Despite this strategy weighing on prices throughout the year, the market managed to trade well above any recent lows which gave confidence to most participants. ‘During the last 12 months the trade had to deal with record high wool prices coupled with the tough global economic circumstances’, said Andrew Price, director of the Bradford based Swan Wool Europe Ltd. ‘Add to that highly volatile currency rates and the wool market did very well to trade in the responsible ranges that were seen. Overall the demand seemed genuine with more processors and less speculators in the market place’. Swan Wool Europe and its Australian partners continue to invest in the future of the trade, this year expanding its operations to include Swan Wool Asia Ltd, which will focus mainly on growth in the Chinese market. ‘Our company policies and direction is quite simple – we offer our collective experience, in a timely and professional manner to all of our clients. We strive for quality in product and service, and look to build long term relationships’, Mr Price said. ‘We also take pride in what we do and try to enjoy ourselves along the way, and hope it shows’.

Centre: Andrew Price (Managing Director), Right: Brian Ashton (Commercial Manager), Left: Catia Marchbank (Logistics / Office Manager) Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 33

UNITED KINGDOM

Reinventing to Remain Strong Wool is, and always has been, one of the most readily available and adaptable fibres in the world. There are records dating back more than 2,500 years which demonstrate how sheepskins and wool were used to create clothing which protected from the elements, offered warmth, durability and flexibility. Fast forward to today and wool is still being used for the very same purposes. How has a product which is as ancient as the hills managed to remain at the very top of its game for thousands of years? Jo Dawson, CEO of H. Dawson Wool, offers some thoughts on the continual reinvention and reinvigoration wool:

ashion may come and go and trends peak then lose out to something new and exciting, but wool has managed to maintain its status as the most reliable, available and useable fibre in the world, for thousands and thousands of years. Wool wasn’t created to fill a gap in the market, it wasn’t developed in a laboratory to make millions of pounds of profit; it has carefully evolved and slowly developed and its unique properties and benefits cannot be replicated or engineered, and that’s what I believe helps to make wool very special. H. Dawson has been involved in the wool trade for nearly 125 years and we are incredibly proud of our heritage and what the company has achieved. We have become one of the world’s most reliable and respected suppliers of wool, meeting the needs of customers and end users across the globe. From the early days when H. Dawson brought wool back from Australia to be sold in the UK, to today when we source wool from 35 different countries and supply to more than 75, our aim has remained the same; to buy and sell the world’s best wool, at the right price and to protect and provide an excellent level of service to every aspect of the demand chain, from the end consumer to the grower. But whilst our aim has stayed firm, what’s changed is the

34 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

development, incredible engineering and a focus on style and speed have ensured that Bentley remains one of the world’s most respected and coveted car manufacturers.

way in which we operate. We’ve had to reinvent ourselves numerous times to ensure we keep up with the times, remain business fit and make sure we continue to lead the way in international wool supply. I often think about the changes the company’s been through over the years, from a pure merino-focus during the early part of the 20th century, to widening our global sales offices around the times of pre and post war austerity, to the new millennium when the opportunities are endless to operate on a global scale, to engage with new customers from remote regions and to exceed their expectation. As with a brand like Bentley, we have had to respond quickly to changes in trends and fashions to retain our position as one of the most reliable and innovative wool suppliers in the world. Bentley roared into the spotlight early in the 1900s and quickly became the car of choice for the well-heeled and wealthy. Despite difficulties in the middle of the 20th Century, in the 1980s, the company’s fortunes were once again on an upward trend and investment, new

H. Dawson Wool as a company has made a conscious effort to reinvent and refresh itself and to respond to changes to the global market and to our customer’s requirements. In recent years we have opened up offices in Ireland, Australia and South Africa and invested in growing our trading teams. Each generation of the Dawson family to lead the company has made strong changes to adapt to the current market environment. Today is no exception, with a growing business that is supplying the most consistent product a manufacturer can buy. H. Dawson will continue to thrive as we are willing to predict as well as respond to the changing needs of our customers. We know wool and we know how to source and supply it, which places us in a very strong position to enjoy continued success. Our strong heritage, our financial stability and our visionary outlook all enable us to regularly take a look at how we operate and how we can make improvements and changes. We are incredibly proud to be part of the world’s oldest industry and welcome the opportunity to help shape it in the years to come.

H.Dawson Wool

Global Wool Solutions Tailored for the 21st Century ‘We Sell Wool. We Buy Wool. We work in partnership with purchasers and growers of wool from across the globe.’ H. Dawson is proud to be one of the world’s leading international wool suppliers. Since 1888, H. Dawson has held its position at the forefront of the global wool trade. Our experience, our ability to source a consistently high quality of wool for any application and industry sets us apart from our competitors. We live wool and we love wool. Trust H. Dawson Wool to bring the best of the world’s wool directly to you. UK: +44 1274 727464 - China: +86 10 8489 1166 - India: +91 151 252 6976 Italy: +39 015 351746 - New Zealand: +64 3 366 6917 - Australia: +02 9623 1115 +61 4153 26769 - South Africa: +27 834 592 242 For more information please visit www.hdawson.com

Consistency, Innovation & Reliability Since 1888

UNITED KINGDOM

Setting Sail to Support Major UK Tourist Attraction H. Dawson Wool, international wool supplier, has joined forces with one of the UK’s most famous tourist attractions to help bring history to life.

transported to the UK on ships such as Cutty Sark. The raw wool donated by H. Dawson for Cutty Sark will help to tell the story of the valuable fibre ‘from sheep to jumper’. The clipper

he company leapt at the opportunity to supply the wool for an interactive installation built to coincide with the reopening of the famous clipper Cutty Sark, following a huge six year conservation project.

H. Dawson was founded in 1888 in Australia and its main business in those days was to buy wool and travel back with the wool to the UK. Historical documentation indicates that wool sourced by H. Dawson Wool at this time would have been

was opened once again to the public in April by Her Majesty The Queen, accompanied by His Royal Highness, The Duke of Edinburgh. Cutty Sark was built in 1869 and in December 1883 it departed Newcastle, New South Wales in Australia with 4289 bales of wool and 12 casks of tallow, arriving back in London in just 83 days. This was 25 days faster than its nearest rival that year and heralded the start of a new career taking Australian wool to Britain in time to catch the January wool sales. The iconic clipper resides permanently in a dry dock in Greenwich, London and is one of only three remaining original composite construction – a wooden hull on an iron frame - clipper ships from the nineteenth century. The wool donated by H. Dawson will form the centrepiece of a permanent, hands-on experience for visitors. Chief Executive of H. Dawson, Jo Dawson, said: “We were delighted to be asked to contribute to this important project which will help not only educate visitors to Cutty Sark about the vital part the clipper played in our history, but to offer an insight into the story of wool and its importance, versatility and wide-

Cutty Sark at National Maritime Museum 36 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

reaching environmental benefits.”

UNITED KINGDOM

Environmental accreditation a must for textile products today

of environmental consultancy services. We can do that quickly and professionally’, says Dr Madden. ‘An increasing number of companies at the retail end now demand environmental accreditation from suppliers. Obtaining the necessary accreditation is a must in today’s competitive world’.

HRH Charles The Prince of Wales with Dr Mike Madden at ENco

Environmental concerns are now paramount for most companies from wool processing to retail. The ENco Global Testing Services laboratory in Bradford offers independent environmental testing and consulting services specifically for the wool and textile industry across the world.

he laboratory works closely with wool and allied fibre textile industries including manufacturers of raw wool, scourers, yarn spinners, yarn and loose fibre dyers, carpet manufacturers, fabric finishers and textile and carpet retailers. ‘We offer a wide range of services to our customers. We analyse and report on testing of effluents and emissions for IPPC permits’, says Dr Mike Madden, Head Scientist at ENco Global Testing Services. ‘We also provide certification for mothproofing application, control and management in effluent, and

environmentally friendly inspection in carpet yarn scouring and finishing, fibre, and yarn and fabric finishing’. The company offers testing of fibres and blends, in terms of microns, length, colour and wool content. The future of the wool textile industry around the world is inextricably linked to traceability of good environmental practices from the farm gate to the retail floor. Wool processors that can provide proof of their environmental credentials will always be ahead of their competition. ‘At ENco we can assist wool and textile companies to obtain the necessary certifications for a variety

Mothproofing is one of ENco’s biggest services. ‘Insect attacks are on the increase, often because processors have not been vigilant in the use of moth proofing applications. At ENco we analyse the level of mothproofing and insect resistant chemicals present in yarns, carpets, fabrics, and military apparel. We are working on developing an eco-friendly insect repellant with a natural repellant that does not kill the insect. Of course this is good for those manufacturers aiming for a greener label.’ ‘The global textile industry is becoming more and more aware that planet friendly products are what the consumer is demanding. From fibre to retail product we can issue ENco certifications to prove and verify environmental compliance ‘, concludes Dr Madden. For more information please contact Dr Mike Madden, ENco Global Testing Services, Cashmere Works, Birksland Street, Bradford BD3 9SX, West Yorkshire, England. Tel +44 (0) 1274 846 599 Email info@encoglobal.com www.encoglobal.com Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 37

UNITED KINGDOM

Europa Wool expanding its product base

Europa Wools is known for its scoured and carbonised wool but has expanded its production focus to include tops in 18.5 - 29.5 microns, from South America as well as the UK. The company has further growth plans that include a move to a fully vertical operation from greasy to yarn.

he company is based in West Yorkshire in the heart of the United Kingdom wool

textile industry. It has increased its size to accommodate a growing

Europa_Advert_2012.pdf

David Morsley

business volume. ‘We have enlarged 08/05/2012 08:59

our operating size to include two warehouses with a total of 12,000 square feet’, says David Morsley, Managing Director. ‘We always have stock at hand and where some companies have

25 years in the industry

CMY

CELEBRATING

Call or email for our latest stock and price list

1998-2013

www.europawools.com

38 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

UNITED KINGDOM

been holding back on forward orders we can fill orders that are last minute and required urgently’. ‘The trade has changed considerably over the last 18 months’, says Mr Morsley. ‘We have moved from a balanced supply situation to a short supply situation. Those who have had a stock position over the last 18 months have benefitted. Manufacturers have run-down stock levels and the merchant stockholder has been a key supplier in the supply chain meeting demand with quick delivery time and availability of wool. ‘Despite the tightening of wool supply we have stock’, says Mr Morsley. ‘We also supply a range of effect fibres, principally wool based for effects in hosiery, weaving and carpet yarns and these come in nepps, burrs and slubs. We work very closely with worsted and woollen spinners. We supply woollen manufacturers, nonwoven manufacturers and manufacturers of carpet, upholstery and hosiery yarn’. ‘We differentiate ourselves from other wool companies by offering our customers dye fibres to meet individual requirements. We offer a very personalised service driven by our small but experienced team. And our customers can be assured of our very stringent quality control’. ‘We are experienced in dyeing fibre as well. Spinners can come to us with a specific colour requirement and we will match it. We will also source wool for a particular requirement and produce yarn needed. We can supply 6 different colours in one delivery’, says Mr Morsley. The company product list includes wools from many origins from 18 – 35 microns. It is a British Wool Marketing Board licensee and mainly supplies British and European scoured wool and wool from New Zealand and Australia. ‘We make it our business to know about every kind of textile fibre available, where to source it and at the most competitive price, and that is our strength. We anticipate customer demand and stock a range of fibres to meet their requirement’. Customers interested in speaking with Europa Wools should contact them directly - Tel. 44 (0) 1484 846878 or Email David Morsley at david@europawools.com

Loro Piana buys Australia’s finest wool bale Luxury fabric and garment manufacturer, Loro Piana, bought Australia’s finest ever bale of Merino wool for the 15th straight year.

easuring 11.1 microns, the Merino wool bale was also the winner of the Loro Piana “Record Bale” Challenge Cup and is the finest ever tested in Australia by the Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) on both Laserscan and OFDA testing machines. The record bale’s fineness was unimaginable and required two tests to guarantee the accuracy of the fibre measurement; Laserscan is AWTA’s standard method for measuring fibre diameter. Loro Piana paid a seasonal record of 337,000 cents a kilogram for the bale from Highlander Ultrafine Partnership owned by wool grower Suzanne Triplett of Tumbarumba, NSW. The sale was brokered by Australian Wool Network (AWN) in Sydney through wool buyer GS Schneider Australia on behalf of Loro Piana. AWN’s southern NSW regional manager, Mark Hedley, prepared the bale to highlight and ensure the quality of the wool presented. Highlander Ultra Fine is well-known for producing some of the world’s finest Saxon Merino wool based on Ledgerton bloodlines (Yass, NSW) and has previously entered the Loro Piana Wool Record Challenge Cup competition each year for the past 10 years winning the Australian section nine times and the overall competition eight times. Record Bale fabrics represent the pinnacle in fine wool production, boasting exclusive designs and featuring special labels reporting shearing year, provenience and fiber’s finesse. Only about 40 suits, dedicated to true connoisseurs, are obtained from the 150 meters of Australian Record Bale.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 39

UNITED KINGDOM

Flexibility and quick delivery from SPB ‘We are a commission processor and work to fill customer orders. It is a system that works well for both our clients and for us. We offer a customised service that results in a quality product’, says Albert Chippendale, Managing Director at Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB). The company is totally independent. It is not aligned or linked to any topmaker or wool trader. ‘Our customers can be assured that their wool will be looked after by us from start to finish’.

PB is in close proximity to Europe which is convenient to clients that require services in quantities big and small, from 500kg to 100 tonnes. SPB’s location allows for a quick response time, especially for its European customers, and prides itself on flexibility. ‘We can deliver orders within days’. Raising awareness in the technical benefits of wool as a preferred fibre is something dear to the heart for Mr Chippendale who has been involved in early stage wool processing for more than 25 years and is passionate about wool and delivering quality to his loyal customer base. SPB provides a service in eco-friendly, shrink resistant wool processing for topmakers and spinners. ‘Manufacturers that offer natural products that perform better and that are also environmentally friendly will always be one step ahead of their competition’, says Mr Chippendale. Traditional markets for SPB products in knitwear include the UK, Western Europe, Scandinavia and North America. ‘We treat wool for hand knitting as well as for high performance apparel such as ski wear. Hand knitting has enjoyed something of a resurgence in America and this is an area of wool treatment that we are expert in, shrink proofing and getting rid of the itch factor’.

Albert Chippendale with eco-friendly, shrink resistant tops 40 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

According to Mr Chippendale the resurgence in the hand knitted market, particularly in the USA, needs

UNITED KINGDOM

to be nurtured. ‘We must ensure that the products that are sold are shrink resistant so we do not lose ground to synthetics’. Mr Chippendale also sees great potential for easycare products in areas of technical textiles such as furniture, the transport industry and more. SPB operates up-to-date machinery and has made improvements in its gilling section. ‘This has enhanced our ability to supply faster and better products. Our turnaround time for deliveries is even better than before. We are quick and highly cost competitive compared with China or India where there are long delays in terms of delivery. When a knitwear manufacturer needs to respond to current market trends quickly this is very important’. There are many benefits to SPB’s treated wool and the processing is constantly monitored to the highest standards. It gives the manufacturer and consumer alike, maximum added value at minimal cost. A finished product made from shrink resistant wool can exceed the equivalent of 50 domestic washing cycles without any deterioration due to compacting or felting and can prolong its life considerably. ‘Treating shrink resist wool tops for machine knitting, hand knitting, apparel and underwear is a growing part of our business, as well as manufacturers in the bedding industry.’ Mr Chippendale believes that consumers around the world are slowly recognising the benefits of natural products, such as wool. Wool is more environmentally friendly and user friendly than synthetic products. ‘It is no longer irritating to the skin and does not shrink after washing, and this message is getting through to the consumer. Wool has come a long way since these factors were an issue’, says Mr Chippendale. SPB is the first company in the UK to be approved under stringent European legislation as integrated pollution prevention and control plant. ‘Our plant meets all the most advanced treatment specifications and we operate to ISO 9001 quality standards and we are registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK. We can offer natural products that are environmentally friendly, with OEKO TEX certification’. SPB is always interested in establishing new business relationships with companies large and small, in particular topmakers and spinners in the knitwear industry and manufacturers of hand kitting and bedding. For more information please contact Albert Chippendale at speciality.processors@btopenworld.com Tel: 00 44 1274 667178 • Fax: 00 44 1274 667121 Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 41

UNITED KINGDOM

Royal visit backs British wool exporter A new showroom opened by royalty for one of Britain’s largest wool exporters is all in a day’s work for Martin and Simon Curtis, directors at UK’s Curtis Wool Direct

t has been a challenging time in the wool industry worldwide, says Martin Curtis. ‘But we continue to invest in the industry’s future and our customers continue to rely on us to deliver wool to them, sometimes in very large quantities, at very short notice. We offer a reliable service - delivery on demand. No job is too small and no order is too large,’ says Mr Curtis. Curtis Wool Direct (CWD) is a registered buyer and licensee of the British Wool Marketing Board. It processes and exports British, Norwegian, European, New Zealand and Real Shetland wools from the UK, offering an extensive range of greasy, scoured or combed wools from 16 to over 40 microns.

ABOVE LEFT | CWD is also actively involved in promoting Real Shetland brand in association with wool growers in the Shetland Islands. This registered trade mark, The Three Sheep logo, is a guarantee of authenticity of its fibre.

‘We are also one of the largest buyers of UK wool,’ says Mr Curtis. ‘We carry large stocks and supply wool to all parts of the textile industry including carpet, hosiery, cloth, hand and machine knitting, bedding and non-woven sectors.

ABOVE RIGHT | Martin & Simon Curtis with the Countess of Wessex opening CWD new showroom

The company buys wool from virtually all wool growing nations. In addition it is an exclusive merchant for Viking

42 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Wool from Norway which is supplied directly by its partner and shareholder Nortura. Nortura is a Norwegian farmer co-operative with a turnover in excess of 2.5 billion Euros. CWD and Nortura are active supporters and contributors to the Campaign for Wool (CfW). CWD has hosted visits from members of the Royal Family in recent times. HRH Prince Charles, who is the Patron and strong and passionate supporter of the CfW toured Haworth Scouring and Haworth Combing last year. ‘This year we were honoured by a visit from Her Royal Highness The Countess of Wessex who opened our new showroom.’ CWD has its headquarters in Bingley just outside Bradford. Its scouring and combing plant - Haworth Scouring and Haworth Combing has the capacity to scour up to 1,000,000kgs of wool each week. ‘We have a team of dedicated wool traders who are on call 24 hours a day. We have the ability to supply from stock and we have the reputation of the quickest turnaround from order to shipment to customers anywhere around the world’.

UNITED KINGDOM

Lawrence House, Dowley Gap Business Park, Bingley BD16 1WA Tel: +44 (0)1274 563444 Fax: +44 (0)1274 518720 wools@curtiswool.co.uk martin@curtiswool.co.uk simon@curtiswool.co.uk

www.curtiswooldirect.co.uk

British Wool Sales 2012/13 BW25

8th August

2012

BW36

23rd January

2013

BW47

7th August

2013

BW26

22nd August

2012

BW37

6th February

2013

BW48

21st August

2013

BW27

5th September

2012

BW38

20th February

2013

BW49

4th September

2013

BW28

19th September

2012

BW39

6th March

2013

BW50

18th September

2013

BW29

3rd October

2012

BW40

20th March

2013

BW51

2nd October

2013

BW30

17th October

2012

BW41

10th April

2013

BW52

16th October

2013

BW31

31st October

2012

BW42

24th April

2013

BW53

30th October

2013

BW32

14th November

2012

BW43

8th May

2013

BW54

13th November

2013

BW33

28th November

2012

BW44

12th June

2013

BW55

27th November

2013

BW34

12th December

2012

BW45

3rd July

2013

BW56

11th December

2013

BW35

9th January

2013

BW46

17th July

2013

Suppliers of the worlds premier wools

Wool Scourers & Exporters of all types of British, New Zealand, Norwegian, Real Shetland and all other origin Wools. Speciality Topmaker. Suppliers of all types of shrink resist wool and tops.

Haworth Scouring Company

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 43

UNITED KINGDOM

Haworth Scouring Company and Haworth Combing Company ‘Our scoured wool and wool tops has a great international reputation’, says David Gisbourne Haworth Scouring Managing Director. ‘Each scouring is treated as a special job in its own right. Pre-scouring preparation of the wool, the scouring itself and post scouring presentation are all essential processes that must all work together to achieve the correct end result. Every customer looks for something a little different and a little special and we endeavour to meet all their demands. Some wools are sorted in the grease by our experienced and talented wool sorters ‘. The environment is a top priority for Haworth Scouring and Haworth Combing. All scouring and combing is ENco Certified. Mr Gisbourne

sees investment in technology, equipment, and research and development as crucial. The company operates the most advanced effluent treatment plant. ‘We want the scouring process and our wool products to have the highest environmental credentials. We have an extremely good life cycle analysis (LCA) for our greasy and scoured wool’. This LCA and ENco Certification can be passed on to customers and through to retailers and contractors who demand eco friendly and green credentials for their products. Haworth is also registered with Soil Association specifically for organic processing to GOTS standards. Haworth Scouring Company and Haworth Combing Company is also accredited with ISO 9001 and ISO 14001 certification. Haworth Scouring and Haworth Combing also scours the majority of Viking Wool - The company takes great care and attention at each stage of processing to ensure that its Viking Wool retains its best qualities.

Viking Wool from Norway

ABOVE RIGHT | CWD Team from Left to right: Tim Holgate, Martin Curtis, Daniel Isbecque & Simon Curtis ABOVE LEFT | The Viking Wool brand has been developed jointly by CWD and their Norwegian partner Nortura of Norway. 44 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

‘Viking Wool from Norway ranks well alongside other famous wools such as the Merino, Real Shetland wool, British wool and New Zealand wool,’ says Mr Curtis. ‘CWD is an exclusive merchant for Viking Wool. Indeed many manufacturers prefer it because of its naturally inherent qualities.’ It has good colour, strong

yet soft, springy and very versatile. It ranges from 28 to 40 microns and includes lambswool, fleece wool and is also combed into tops. Viking Wool has been grown for centuries on the hills and pastures of the beautiful scenic Norwegian countryside. These unique sheep breeds have evolved over time to enable them to adapt to the different climatic conditions they encounter. The natural environment in Norway, with its pure air and a pesticide free landscape makes it an ideal place to grow this beautiful wool. Hand sorting by skilled craftsmen into sixteen different classifications results in the wool being ideally suited for a multiplicity of different and important end uses. Luxury yarns have been developed for the fashion industry as well as the more traditional sectors including knitwear, cloth, hand knitting yarns, carpets, rugs and throws. ‘We are working more closely than ever with our customers in the UK, Europe, the USA, China, Japan and in Norway itself to develop new and exciting products from this wonderful fibre. To make the best product you start with the best raw material’, says Mr Curtis. ‘That is why the tops we make from Viking Wool are so popular with our customers.’ For more information please contact Curtis Wool Direct at + 44 (0) 1274 563 444 E wools@curtiswool.co.uk

Yarn

YARN

Customers eagerly seek Innovative Printed Yarn

est Yorkshire Spinners (WYS) source their own raw material which is then produced into yarn in its state of the art factory. It is one of the most efficient and productive plants in this sector. WYS supplies the finest yarn to the hand knitting, machine knitting and carpet industries. Count ranges

Peter Longbottom and some of the vibrant colours available from WYS

from 1 -14 metric single or folded, sale or commission basis. The recent move to a new factory and new machinery has given West Yorkshire Spinners (WYS) a facelift and increased productivity. ‘The new factory has allowed us the opportunity to create a better layout with more space for our machinery’, says Peter Longbottom, Managing Director at WYS. Mr Longbottom commented that this redesign has resulted in a faster turnaround for products to be delivered to its customers. New machinery is also keeping production costs down at a time when costs are in fact going up. ‘The new factory has also helped us to reduce the carbon footprint of our products and still manufacture very competitively. We feel our prices reflect these factors and give us the opportunity to pass on the savings to our customers’. The company has also invested in a state of the art yarn printing (space dyeing) machinery. By using very sophisticated computer controllers they can achieve many different and

46 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

unique coloured effects. ‘This Printed Yarn is of the latest designs, and has been greeted with great interest by our customers’. The machines in the WYS factory have been specially adapted to produce most fibres including 100% wool, wool + synthetic blends and other noble fibres e.g. Mohair and, Alpaca. WYS also experience in processing Bamboo which is a relatively new fibre. Mr Longbottom observes that today’s fast moving consumer market innovation and the introduction of new products is a must. ‘We can produce a wide variety of products. ‘With our on-going programme of investments in new technology we have recently purchased machinery for producing new types of coloured effects’. As well as yarn spinning WYS provide wool products made from the finest bluefaced Leicester wool yarn, mohair and natural Norwegian wool. ‘Our online shop provides customers, from importers to end of the line retail consumers to easily

Classic & Fancy Yarns natural and synthetic fibres • 100% Bluefaced Leicester yarn Super light weight brushed mohair yarn Blankets & rugs • Scarves & socks

WEST YORKSHIRE SPINNERSLTD Unit 2, Airedale Park, Royd Ings Avenue, Keighley, West Yorkshire, BD21 4DG United Kingdom Tel: +44 (1535) 664500 • Fax: +44 (1535) 669149 • sales@wyspinners.com

www.wyspinners.com

YARN

access information and products from our company’. ‘We are currently producing 500,000 kg of yarn’, says Mr Longbottom. ‘The demand has been particularly good for hand knitted yarn. And we produce 160,000kg of printed yarn. This is a very important part of our business. Our biggest export market is Scandinavia, USA, and Europe’. Mr Longbottom points out that the US market is also growing rapidly. ‘We need to constantly innovate to satisfy customer demand and new machinery coupled with quality fibre is the perfect combination. Our exports have increased and the interest continues to be in natural fibres. Customers are interested in sheep breeds and origin of Fibre’. ‘British yarn is being exported to every corner of the world. It is definitely on the come back and the textile industry is getting it right. The new focus on promotion has hit a cord and consumer interest is being harnessed with a focus on environmental concerns and re-education on the positive properties and characteristics of wool. Consumers are now interested in what they buy and where it has come from and as a textile industry mainstay for British textile exports - new wool products are finding new markets’. The full range of products offered by West Yorkshire Spinners, including its printed yarns can be viewed at Yarn from the new factory ready for delivery to customers worldwide

www.wyspinners.com

Pure Wool Yarn from Argentina

ur family has been in the business of wool processing in Argentina since 1958 and we are well known as a reliable supplier, says Gaston Lefebvre, Director at Lanera Austral. This prominent Argentine top making company is now offering pure woollen yarn to spinners and weavers around the world.

Gaston Lefebvre with Lanera Austral Yarn

48 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

‘We largely use Argentinean wool at 19.5 - 29.5 microns’, says Gaston Lefebvre. The company operates a wool processing plant in the Chubut region, predominately exporting tops and offering a range of selected yarn. Yarn on offer uses100%

wool yarn and is raw white. Thread counts are 225, 240, and 248. ‘This yarn is ideal for spinners that wish to directly source this type of yarn to complement their own yarn range. It is only two fold because of the wool used. Our pure wool yarn is 10 to 32 Nm (Number metric), is 1 to 3 ply in knitting and flat and is presented as cones or skeins’. For more information about yarn from Lanera Austral please contact Gaston Lefebvre on Email: gastonl@lanera-austral.com Tel: + 54-11-4328-2000 www.lanera-austral.com

YARN

Argentine wool company adds quality natural yarns to its product list ‘Our yarns come from the Llama’, says Carlos Leers, Director at Pelama Chubut. ‘The fibre is scoured and combed making it considerably silkier, and we guarantee that the products we offer are flawless and 100% free of impurities, giving the end products an enhanced texture.

e have devoted many years to the development of this yarn and we have been able to attain products of exceptional quality. Pelama Chubut is a well known Argentinean processor and topmaker of wool and speciality fibres. Yarn is a new addition to the products it markets to its clients. Pelama Chubut yarns are natural in colour. There is no dyeing and therefore no environmental pollution

Pelama Chubut natural coloured yarn

Carlos Leers

from the use of chemicals. This makes the yarn better suited to those with allergies, and especially babies, with sensitive skin. The natural colours

range from white to black, through such colourways as brown, coffee and cinnamon brown, tobacco, beige, and grey. This wide variety of colours allows for a greater number of combinations and products. ‘We are currently producing several types of yarn which not only cater to the carpet and tapestry industries, but are also clothing with a rustic, natural look’, concluded Mr Leers.

Mohair South Africa and vogue knitting

ohair SA has come on board as the premier sponsor of Vogue Knitting Live, the one-of-a-kind, experiential knitting event in Chicago 26 – 28 October 2012. Dubbed as the ultimate knitting experience, Vogue Knitting Live brings Vogue Knitting magazine to life where knitting and crocheting fans gather to celebrate a timeless craft. With the magazine launched over 25 years ago, it has set the bar for knitting and has worked with the biggest and most talented names in fashion today, including Michael Kors and Anna Sui. Thousands of knitters flocked to previous Vogue Knitting Live events in New York and Los Angeles to experience all that this one-of-a-kind

event focusing on fashion, fibre, and education has to offer. Mohair SA focus on forming partnerships and alliances to enhance the consumption of mohair, and to ultimately lead to sustainable demand and profitability for all role players involved in the industry.

multi-media use of consumer and trade magazines, web and television, Mohair SA will reach almost 1 million knitting enthusiasts.

Our sponsorship of Vogue Knitting Live ties in perfectly with this business strategy and enables us to communicate directly with the US market.” Through Vogue Knitting’s integrated Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 49

YARN

Offering competitively priced, quality yarn has undergone extensive testing and meets required quality specifications’, says Jimmy Zhang Deputy General Manager at Thrive.

s its name suggests this Chinese yarn company is indeed thriving. ‘We have been developing new products and have been focusing on the high-end market. Our ‘Anti-static yarn’ and ‘thermal yarn’ have become our two best selling products. Each of these

The registered brand name for Jiangyin Zhenxin Industry products is ‘Thrive’. Jiangyin Zhenxin Industry is one of the largest manufacturers and exporters in China that specializes in exporting quality yarn and tops. Thrive is well known brand that has developed a loyal customer base in China and around the world. ‘We offer buyers a good quality yarn at a competitive price’, says Mr Zhang. Jiangyin Zhenxin uses quality wools imported from Australia. It has been accredited by the International Wool Secretariat since 2009. It is also OEKO—TEX 100 accredited for its wool yarns. ‘We fully comply with European Union standards for export’, says Mr Zhang. ‘We are also accredited ISO9002 Quality System and ISO14001. In 2004 the company was awarded Environment System certifications. ‘We operate a complete industrial chain for wool spinning and a number of wool top, spinning and wool knitting subsidiaries’, says Jimmy Zhang. ‘At Jiangyin Zhenxin Wool Spinning we use 40,000 spindles for wool spinning with an annual production of 6,500 tons of worsted yarn. The company has recently purchased a new 10,000 spindle that will be installed shortly. We are capable of producing pure wool yarns and various types of blended and machine woven yarns in a yarn count range 20s/2-120s/2’, says Mr Zhang. The company operates the latest textile equipment including NSC combers from France, CONGNTEX

50 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

spinning frames from Italy, SAVIO automatic winders from Italy, FOCUS double twisters from France, SSM yarn doubling winders from Switzerland, and VTS—08 double twisters from Germany. Thrive provides white and dyed yarns and fabrics to meet the requirements of its customers. ‘We have a sophisticated quality control system and established an Experiment and R&D Centre, which is equipped with a range of advanced testing equipment, including the leadingedge Uster IV Strip Testers, automatic yarn strength testers, automatic yarn twist testers and colour fastness testers’, says Mr Zhang. Thrive also produces its own wool top. Jiangyin Zhenxin Wool Tops Co. Ltd currently has a wool washing line with an annual capacity of 10,000 tons of scoured wool. It operates three modern wool top making lines, including NSC top gill boxes and combing machines from France, with an annual capacity of more than 6,000 tons of 29um-16.5um self-combed Australian wool tops. Currently it exports wool tops to Europe, Japan, South Korea and India. Jiangsu Zhenxin is always interested in establishing long-term trade partnerships and joint developments with existing and potential customers in all parts of the world. ‘We welcome enquiries from yarn buyers from around the world that are looking for competitively priced, good quality yarn. For more information please contact Jimmy Zhang: jimmy_zhang58@163.com Jimmy_zhang@chinazxsy.com

YARN

courtesy of R A Poole

Pushing the Boundaries of the World’s Strongest Wool – British Wool British Wool – the fibre that has more sheep breeds and wool types than any other wool in the world has often suffered from being pigeon-holed as a carpet fibre and nothing else. Perhaps the fact that it performs so well on the floor and can take the manufacturing processes of woven axminster and tufting so well is part of the reason for that. Certainly the yarn spinners and carpet manufacturers have chosen it for all the right reasons. By: Bridgette Kelly

52 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

ritish Wool is particularly resilient, a strong wool that has had the advantage of being grown on sheep that graze freely across Britain’s varied terrain in some very inclement weather. This experience coupled with crossbreeding has made British sheep grow highly robust wool that will protect the sheep in all climes. The beauty of wool is that the fibre retains these

inherent characteristics throughout its entire chain - from field to floor and this for British Wool means bulky, springy wool that will naturally reform following compression. The natural heathery tones have been seen as an asset as the fibre can be used in a creative way to produce flecks and tweed looks and interestingly the previous drawbacks

YARN

of so many coloured wools –such as the Black Welsh Mountains are now in greater demand as the appetite for naturally coloured ranges continues to build its niche. British Wool has a plethora of breed stories – which the marketing industry and subsequently the consumer respond well to - over 60 different sheep breeds, grazing in Britain’s beautiful countryside on over 50,000 different farms. The creamy shades of the North of England Mule, the whiter wool of the Cheviot and the shades and texture of most of them are well used by the commercial spinning industry that creates yarns to all variety of brief. Largely though, the majority of carpet yarn is spun to a blend that is based on the price-point of the bulk order retail sector. Fundamentally, this price-led approach drives sales but also is partly a form of imposed limitation of a fibre that can – with skill and the spinning industry’s highly technical expertise – do so much more. Richard Collinge agrees; he is Managing Director of the recently amalgamated spinning operation of Lawtons Yarn Ltd – born of Fred Lawton & Son and WS Grahams Ltd. Now centring its activity in Dewsbury, West Yorkshire; the Mill, a £60 million investment, is firmly future focused and has a streamlined, modern set-up that works around the clock seven days a week. The company has equipment to make a huge product range and maximise quality and service. Its highly efficient hank dyeing house is capable of dyeing up to 200 tonnes per week. “We have a smooth and cost effective operation producing every type of carpet yarn but over 70% of that is beige Wool Twist.” Collinge says that he has seen the trend for very light shades fall away recently but Twist pile remains a constant. “British

Wool is a fantastic wool for carpet, a good fibre to spin and offers more wear-ability. We buy up to eight million kilos per annum most of which will be used to fulfil orders to a specific client blend.” The challenge of course, is always pushing the boundaries and here spinners have the opportunity to lead the market. The diversity of British Wool poses an opportunity to both spinners and manufacturers – Ulster Carpets used no dyes in their collection of woven axminster carpets - ‘Natural Choice’. The seventeen neutral patterns lacked nothing in design but it was the skill and creativity of choosing coloured wools from British Wool and Norwegian that enabled the ground-breaking range to become a reality. The appetite for this naturally coloured un-dyed look is growing – with American carpet manufacturers too - where design and texture play a more significant part in the sector. Collinge, whose focus is primarily UK, is also active in China and the Philippines and is keen to expand. The company has invested in a product development facility that will proactively develop innovations in yarn. “We are focused on partnerships here – we want to create and inspire new ideas in wool and we have the equipment to do it.” Taking the limitations out of the British Wool frame is firmly on the agenda at Laxtons Yarns too. Owner James Laxton made the decision to bring his spinning back to the UK when he realised that the issues faced with commissioning elsewhere were hindering their ideas and potential growth. The young team at Laxtons have put British Wool at the fore of their plans and are pushing the boundaries of its use on every level. He spent considerable time selecting and buying the right machinery and it was a worthy investment, he

comments that means he can achieve more as a result. “British Wool is a key focus for us but we are very selective and want quality. We have made yarn for Ladies fashion from 31 micron British Wool – yet it feels like it is much finer. The machinery and yarn innovation is helping us to get more out of the wool micron and take it to new market sectors. Many times in apparel when we tell people that the yarn or cloth is British Wool they can’t believe it because the handle is so smooth.” Laxtons are producing worsted and fancy yarns for knitting yarn and cloth manufacturing and have built up a reputation on British Wool and British made. “The emphasis on British both here and overseas has been growing. We have customers who only want British Wool – the origin is important and young designers are keen on it.” They have worked collaboratively with Royal College of Art and major High Street names and he says “We have developed more in the last two years than the last twenty. This is how spinners can impact – we can drive the future by innovation ad have seen more British Wool on the catwalk as a direct result of that approach.” Certainly this view is very much the mind-set of Richard Poole, Business Development Manager of the British Wool Marketing Board. Poole, with his background in wool testing is well versed in the capability of fibre and has observed the growth of British Wool in yarns for cloth and apparel in the last five years. “Carpet is the core of our business and merchants at our auctions are more often buying for that than anything else – 70% will go that way.” And of course bulk orders are the safeguard for all yarn spinners but as carpets have become less innovative, Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 53

YARN

less colourful – it has become difficult to be new and distinct.

Ardalanish yarn collection in British Wool Poole introduced the ‘Shades of Nature’ yarn collection to stimulate the carpet industry to think about texture – for which British Wool is superb. It also created a market for its naturally coloured wools and resulted in a number of industry firsts on that level – the aforementioned Ulster range being one. More recently, he has worked on concept blending of the British Wool fibre with wools of other origin to maintain the intrinsic values of British Wool. So a Kent Romney breed with Merino in a 55% to a 45% blend which gives a soft handle but the distinct form and structure that British Wool enables. A 39 micron, long staple Cotswold blended with Merino has been spun to be very soft with great handle and provides added wear-ability. Poole’s creativity with British Wool blends defies industry perceptions and all are spun from readily available breeds and types. “There is no limit to British Wool other than that imposed on it. It is nonsense that it is carpet wool. Fashion designers and retailers are becoming very provenance driven

and this is where potential can be created, market share gained and a higher price achieved.” Poole is seeking to inspire a new generation and his work on the Bradford Textile Society’s annual competition for textile colleges sets no significant design Brief but rather lets the student make what they want to from the concept yarns provided. This frees it from industry restraint and the entries were impressive. “The next generation are more open-minded, there is a storyboard approach – a need to define the content as much as the design of the finished product.” He says. The importance of understanding the way wool can be altered throughout the long manufacturing process is critical to British Wool yarn. In a woollen spinning process – the texture of the cloth is developed in the yarn. But in a worsted design process, the yarn can be improved and changed significantly. “The scope to create amazing product from British Wool is immeasurable really once they have grasped this.” He explains. Naturally coloured wools are the big British Wool story in fashion and interiors too. At Ardalanish Isle of Mull Weavers, they have chosen to

work with coloured wools from sheep breeds in the Scottish Highlands and Islands and offer a perfect example of how colour and style can be crafted from the unique British breed story. British Wool is exported to nearly every country in the world that has a textile industry – says Martin Curtis of Curtis Wools Direct which own and run the only commercial UK combing plant for worsted yarns. “Our investment in combing has been huge but then we see the benefits of providing a facility that can contribute so much to the potential of British Wool in coming years.” The value of the British Wool clip rose with the higher prices at auction and the industry did struggle with the sudden increases and higher costs. The carpet sector with its value and quality missive needed to contain the impact of several increases in a severe period of economic decline and when the housing market – the lifeblood of carpet manufacturers – stalled and stagnated. However, most interestingly, those that focus on innovation commented that higher wool prices were not such a big issue. The feeling was that it was quality combined with a point of distinction that made the price more acceptable and showed that in niche markets – carpets or otherwise - there is the potential for a far higher return on a lesser volume of wool. Looking at the British Wool breed book, Poole sums it all up, “British Wool is a reliable work-horse in a carpet, as a fibre it will perform at optimum levels - take the pressure of footfall in a casino or a hotel, hold colour well and look good for many years. This is its story but it is not the whole story. The breeds in this book are unique across the world and with the skill of a good spinner and a little creativity – it can also be so much more.”

54 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

NEW ZEALAND

NZ woolscourer offers the best in cost & quality by Victor Chesky

Driving through the picturesque Canterbury Plains of the South Island toward Timaru, I couldn’t help but admire the beautiful blue sky and healthy New Zealand sheep grazing on lush green pastures. This is the NZ heartland where some of the best quality wools are grown. I was on my way to meet with Nigel Hales, CEO of Cavalier Woolscourers and Tony Cunningham General Manager at their plant in Timaru.

igel Hales, who is a qualified wool classer with over 30 years experience in the wool trade runs one of the largest wool scouring operations in the world. Cavalier Woolscourers has the capacity to wash in excess of 100 million kilos of greasy wool and speciality fibre every year. According to Nigel Hales the first choice in scouring New Zealand wool should be Cavalier Woolscourers Ltd. ‘We are a standalone commission wool scourer. We don’t own or trade wool and therefore we have no conflict of interest with our customers. We offer an extremely cost competitive wool processing service.’ The company has two main scouring sites located in the geographical heart of New Zealand’s wool growing regions. Hawkes Bay Woolscourers is located in Napier and Canterbury Woolscourers is located in Timaru. Both plants run the latest ANDAR processing lines and are located close to main port facilities for cost effective logistics. ‘We are the only New Zealand wool

Nigel Hales (left) and Tony Cunningham

scouring company that has been specifically set up with ANDAR “Top Master Woolscours” to scour Fine Wool to exacting quality standards’, says Mr Hales. ‘Our machinery can process from coarser to finer wools, from merino to drysdale we can do it all’. ‘We wash our customers’ wool to a very high standard’, says Mr Cunningham. ‘Evidence of this is

measurable. Very low residuals are left on the wool, and we have the ability to lift the Y value 1 full unit without chemical additions. ‘Our scouring sites include unique state of the art computer controlled greasy blending systems that include multiple greasy wool openers which individually cope for each style and length of wool. Our opening systems give a clear advantage over our Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 55

NEW ZEALAND

Opened, blended greasy wool heading for the washing bowls

competitors and reduce the effluent loading on the traditional scour setup by over 40%.’

options, Nylon woolpacks, Red, Blue

The efficient management structure allows this company to react quickly when needed and it is not unusual for wool to be scoured within 48 hours of delivery to the plant.

white wool option.

All management staff at Cavalier Woolscourers are qualified wool classers. The company offers all traditional scouring services such as individualized bale branding/marking

is fresh pure natural water from

or Green bands, bale weights to meet specific mill requirements, “ICE” pure ‘We also lead the way with World Best Practices for environmental issues such as low water usage, energy usage and recycling. All wash water artesian ground wells onsite, not recycled water that has been stripped with copious amounts of acid and polymers or that has previously

been through someone’s kidneys!’, comments Mr Cunningham. The company is accredited with ISO 9001, Global Organic Textiles (GOTS) for “100% Organic Scoured New Zealand Wool” also Environmental Choice which links to the worldwide Green Building standards, Asure Quality Organic, Bio Grow NZ Organic, Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries (MAF) transition facility and more. ‘We rate ourselves as the most quality conscious commission scouring company in the world and have the certificates to prove it!’, says Mr Hales. The company is also a strong supporter of the Campaign for Wool. ‘We are totally focused on continuous improvement and new scouring technology, not only to continually operate at world’s best practice levels but to ensure that the quality of the wool we wash for our customers is and remains measurably the best in the world’.

Cavalier Woolscourers - entrusted to scour one of the finest New Zealand fleeces at 11.4 micron 56 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Please contact Nigel Hales – nigel@hbws.co.nz or Tony Cunningham - tonyc@ctyscour.co.nz www.cavalierwoolscourers.co.nz

THE CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

NEW ZEALAND

The Konaka Initiative H. Dawson Wool has always been recognised as a trailblazer for the international wool industry. Since the day in 1887 when Harry Dawson set sail from Yorkshire to Australia on the ‘Chusan’ to forge trade links between the two countries, the company has worked tirelessly to establish and maintain relationships with growers and end users of wool across the globe.

he latest example of this was carried out as part of the company’s New Zealand ‘Merino Initiatives’ programme during which the company used its sound reputation, in-depth expertise and its close relationships with suppliers some of the finest wool in the world to broker a major deal with leading Japanese clothing producer, Konaka Co Ltd. By intuitively matching the wool grower to the client, H. Dawson has created an opportunity for 15 micron merino wool to be recognised as a luxury,

ultra-fine fibre which can replace cashmere in terms of quality, softness, finish and durability. The wool will replace premium fibre cashmere in a new winter range being designed by Konaka Co Ltd. The deal was brokered by H. Dawson NZ’s Senior Trader, Craig Smith. Craig said: “Matching handpicked growers to specific overseas clients is proving attractive to all involved. For the client, the benefits are twofold; telling the origin-of-wool story as well as the quality-of-fibre story.

Konaka representatives examine wool at Closeburn Station

The grower is being rewarded for developing farming practices that often take years of investment to perfect. Realising the return on that investment is exciting.” The fineness of the merino wool achieved by grower, Tony Clarke from Closeburn Station, over a 13–yearlong breeding programme, was a major factor in clinching the deal. Konaka believes that the 15 micron 100 per cent merino wool from New Zealand offers greater softness, bulk and durability. A delegation from Konaka made a flying visit to New Zealand where they joined H. Dawson on a tour of the growing station, an inspection of the flock and to personally record the deal with the grower.

onaka-san, CEO and owner of Konaka Co Ltd, said: “Our customers want to know the story behind the fibre in their fabric, from the grassroots to the garment so seeing where the wool comes from is a major part of our story. The corporate garment market in Japan is highly competitive and Konaka believes that using 100 per cent 15 micron wool from New Zealand offers them the opportunity to present something new to the market.” Konaka-san added: “The quality of fibre that grower Tony Clarke has achieved with his wool is impressive. In many ways it’s equivalent to cashmere and in some ways it’s superior.” Craig added: “Deals such as this offers a win-win for everyone. We

58 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

NEW ZEALAND

specifically seek to build long-term partnerships that are financially beneficial to growers and buyers both now and for years to come. What’s critical to success is that deals are built on trust and transparency and that the focus is on achieving the best outcome for all. “In this case, Closeburn is getting around double the current price of the clean weight per kilogram for their product. For Konaka, it gets the assurance of the quality it is after.”

he visit by Konaka was filmed and will be used as part of a national Japanese television advertising campaign. The campaign will focus on the origin of the fibre in the fabric - something that is seen as a strong selling point. During their visit the Konaka executives also inspected samples of other wools for their general suiting range and will continue to work closely with H. Dawson to ensure more perfect matches in the future. CEO of H. Dawson Wool, Jo Dawson, said: “We are proud to work closely with some of the world’s finest growers of wool and using our insight and knowledge, we are able to identify the perfect type of wool for a client’s specific needs. We’re able to recognise what wool works best in clothing, or in bedding, or carpets. We have a reputation of being able to supply wool which is consistent in quality, which is something we know our clients need. Nothing gives us greater pleasure than helping a client, whether they’re in the apparel, interiors or building industry, to find the best wool for their latest project. H. Dawson Wool provides a complete service from the initial contact with a client, through to the delivery and beyond. We’ve built up a bank of knowledge over the past 124 years and we are excited to share it with clients old and new.”

Competitive service to carpet and knitting industries Standard Wool New Zealand works closely with its head office in the UK to source the best wool for its clients worldwide. ‘We have been exporting wool for over 30 years’, says Gary Doherty Managing Director at Standard Wool New Zealand. ‘Customers interested in buying New Zealand wool can contact us directly or through our UK office in Bradford. wool for the carpet and knitting industries as well as greasy and slipe wools for the hand knitting industry.

Gary Doherty with scoured wool ready for delivery

tandard Wool New Zealand is in close proximity to Asia and this is a further advantage to customers in these nearby countries. ‘A quicker response time is always a benefit to our customers’, says Mr Doherty. ‘We can service niche markets with clients big and small that require specific types for specific purposes’. The company buys at auction and directly from private wool merchants. It exports scoured, greasy and slipe wool to all processing countries in the world. It specializes in scoured slipe

All Standard Wool NZ orders can be tested by either SGS or NZWTA by customer choice. Mr Doherty believes that the high prices for wool, coupled with the high New Zealand dollar make the competitive nature of wool selling all the more so today. ‘Our company’s smaller operation base enables it to offer a competitive price structure and personalised service. ‘We have found that some of our customers have changed their buying patterns because of the volatility of prices and the high New Zealand dollar. However they still require specific wool types and sometimes in smaller volumes and we are set up to facilitate these individual requirements. We can ship three or four different types in one container, greasy or scoured’, says Mr Doherty. Standard Wool New Zealand: gary@stdwoolnz.co.nz Tel: +64 3 574613 Web: www.standard-wool.co.uk

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 59

NEW ZEALAND

Purelana

setting the bench mark in scoured wool Bales of PurelanaTM wool strapped with a single Red Band are instantly recognisable by international buyers as virgin wool which comes exclusively from New Zealand Wool Services International (WSI).

he top-quality raw material is enhanced by the world’s most modern wool scouring processes. ‘It’s a simple enough thing – a single red band – but it stands out in a crowd, you don’t need to be able to read English to recognise it, and our buyers know and look out for it’, says Michael Dwyer, Managing Director, ‘and most importantly, they trust the Red Band as they know that the wool is selected from the best New Zealand farms, raised and grazed in a pure, green and natural environment’. WSI is a vertically integrated, international wool scouring and export business listed on the NZ Stock Exchange. It is one of New Zealand’s largest wool exporters, and has an annual turnover of approximately NZD 200 million. Its headquarters is in Christchurch, New Zealand, with international offices in China, Turkey and India. The company owns and operates two of the most modern and efficient scouring plants at the Kaputone Wool Scour in Christchurch, and the Whakatu Wool Scour in Hawkes Bay. Both plants have the capacity to process 400,000 bales per year. ‘Our two scouring plants, one in the North Island and one in the South Island, are identically

60 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

configured’, says Mr Dwyer. Each is fully computerised, enabling instant control and the capability to adjust the process to match the requirements of both the raw product being scoured and its intended final use. The whole scouring process at both plants can be operated from a single computer terminal, located anywhere in the world, if necessary. Full test data can be extracted within 48 seconds of a bale being cored. Monitoring the quality of each bale provides the scope to adjust the plant, minimising variations and

Malcolm Ching, PurelanaTM Manager

ensuring customer specification is precisely met. WSI uses an automated, computer controlled blend system

NEW ZEALAND

which can only be scoured at WSI. The outcome is an exceptionally clean and bright wool. It is suited to manufacturing pure white and soft pastel shades. Woolgrowers who supply for GlacialTM are encouraged to be innovative in stock management, breeding, pest control and shearing practices.

as well as a three metre Andar Cardmaster scour incorporating a Unidryer. A Gualchierani high density wool press is in use and the company has a capacity to load 20 tonne containers.

GlacialTM has made a major impact on international carpet manufacturers, particularly in Europe and the United States where it appeals to high-end designers and trade showrooms. It is used for entire carpets or rugs and for highlights in a pattern, where its purity and superior capacity to take dye makes it ideal for the use of pastel shades.

FOSS near infrared wool measuring technology features at both Kaputone and Whakatu, ensuring faster, more efficient measuring of wool. WSI carefully monitors the quality of each bale produced and has the scope to adjust to ensure particular customer specifications.

China is the biggest market for WSI but it is also one of the largest exporters of New Zealand wool to India and Turkey. ‘We have a long and well established supply links to spinners and weavers in India’, says Mr TC Bilandani Manger WSI office Delhi. Mr TC Bilandani is a qualified

TC Bilandani Manger WSI office Delhi

Mustafa Gozne WSI representative in Turkey

textile engineer with three decades of experience in working with New Zealand wool. Turkey is also a growing market for New Zealand wool. Mr Mustafa Gozne, WSI representative in Turkey says ‘ spinners and weavers in Turkey recognise and value the quality of New Zealand wool they receive under the PurelanaTM brand. For more information contact PurelanaTM Manager Malcolm Ching at: malcolm@woolserv.co.nz

PurelanaTM brand has excellent environmental credentials. Strict systems of environmental care and only pure New Zealand water is used in the scouring process. Organic waste is then used to manufacture superior compost products ‘We have a strict adherence to ISO 9001 and 14001 standards and we can guarantee an outstanding degree of quality assurance’, says Malcolm Ching, PurelanaTM Manager. PurelanaTM is available in a range of wool types to meet industrial demands of, for example, tufted carpets or axminster carpets. Every PurelanaTM shipment covered by an extensive warranty and detailed testing certification, incorporating length and colour measurements are available. WSI is also the exclusive producer of the high-quality GlacialTM brand

NZ Wool Services management team from left to right: Michael Dwyer Managing Director, Liang Jun & Paul Steel Executives and John Dawson General Manager Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 61

New Zealand Wool Services International Limited 30 Sir William Pickering Drive, PO Box 29 383 Christchurch, New Zealand Phone: +64 3 357 8700 • Fax: +64 3 357 8720 • Email: marketing@woolserv.co.nz

NZSWI India: "Kiwi Hutt" C1530 Sushant Lok-I, Guragon 122002 India Tel: +91 124 6460645 • Fax: +91 124 4105479 • T.C. Bilandani - CEO: +91 981001 7995 • Email: tc@woolservices.com Ruzgarlibace Mah. Acarlar Is Merkezi, F Blok Kat:7 D 17 81640 Kavacik, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90 216 425 31 33 (Pbx) • Fax: 90 216 322 28 79 • Email: mgozne@imisk.com.tr

NEW ZEALAND

Exporter of NZ merino branches into luxury market John Marshall & Co is a well known exporter of all types of New Zealand wool and has been supplying bedding manufacturers in the US with Joma® Wool for many years. The company is a major exporter of greasy and scoured New Zealand merino wool and wool tops to manufacturers for such applications as upholstery and home interiors.

Babycare products made using Joma® wool

John Marshall & Co exhibition display featuring bedding products and crimped New Zealand wool for a variety of applications

t also specialises in supplying bedding manufacturers with mechanically crimped wool. This is marketed under the brand name Joma® Wool. It is made from high quality, clean New Zealand wool and is processed to accentuate the unique benefits of wool. ‘The result is wool with additional bulk. The manufacturer can use less wool to gain the required results in consistency and minimum fibre migration that is resistant to felting’, says Mr Crone, Managing Director at John Marshall & Co. ‘We work individually with our customers in addressing their specific needs. We are known to deliver specified wool types on time, every time. Our customers are getting a product with better parameters. Good quality wool, good environmental practices and a reliable service are what we are all about at John Marshall & Co.’ ‘Joma® Wool assists in regulating body temperature and humidity, is allergy free, flame resistant. These attributes make this wool an ideal product for use in the bedding and babycare

64 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Peter Crone

market’, Peter Crone, John Marshall & Co. ‘Our New Zealand merino wool comes directly from a selected group of growers situated in the southern region of New Zealand. These sheep produce high quality merino wool that is particularly well received by European and Asian top makers’, says Mr Crone. Peter Crone has been involved in the New Zealand wool industry since the 1960s and is a Past Chairman of the Council of New Zealand Wool Exporters. He is also a strong supporter of the Campaign for Wool (CfW). ‘We are always interested in developing new relationships with manufacturers that could benefit by using our unique Joma® Wool and our ability to develop new products using beautiful New Zealand wool’. Peter Crone can be contacted by email – info@joma.co.nz Website – www.joma.co.nz

PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

NEW ZEALAND

Passing the baton and focusing on the future ‘After almost 3 years of climbing prices it has been a challenging year for wool exporters, as prices took a significant decline in early 2012’, says Colin White of New Zealand’s JL Crichton. ‘Movement like this really affects the confidence of our buyers and users’.

uch disquiet around the world and particularly in Europe have dramatically affected consumer spending and therefore retailing, despite the best of efforts and promotion presently being undertaken. New Zealand does however always sell its wool and it has been many years since there was a significant build up or stockpile’. We have some of the best wool in the world yet getting the best price is always difficult - Europe for us is an important market but the

68 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

solution to their problems could be years away.’ Mr White will retire this year after more than 40 years in the New Zealand wool industry, including a period as chairman of the NZ Slipe Wool Association. Michael Inkson has taken on the position of Managing Director although Mr White will continue as a Director and assist where necessary. Mr Inkson has been with JL Crichton for 18 years and has extensive knowledge in New Zealand wool and wool trading.

‘Continuity and service to our many clients has been a foundation stone of the company over its 57 years of existence, so it is ‘business as usual’, despite much happening and changing over this period, not to mention earthquakes in recent times. Our homes may be damaged but the spirit and will is still there,’ says Mr White. JL Crichton specialise in all types of New Zealand wool including scoured lamb wool, slipe lamb wool and scoured and greasy wool. Its range of wool types include wools for carpet, hand knitting, wool spinning, nonwoven, and bedding and baby wear. All shorn wool is tested prior to sale, at an accredited testing facility, which provides objective measurements

NEW ZEALAND

of commercially important characteristics. The characteristics tested include yield, condition (moisture content), fibre diameter, colour, length, strength, and bulk. The company believes direct communication with the client is a key to ensuring that their specific needs are met. ‘We deliver what the client wants’, says Mr Inkson. ‘The seasonal supply of certain wools is an issue as there is just not enough at many times of the year, so having a supplier that is right there when the best quality wool can be purchased, must be a benefit to the customer’. JL Crichton supplies wool to customers in all the traditional areas - ‘We match the right wool to each client specification and we supply on

Michael Inkson (left) New Managing Director and out-going Manager Director Colin White

time and to budget. We look forward to continuing our service to existing clients and receiving enquiries from new and potential customers,’

concludes Mr Inkson. For more information www.crichtonwool.co.nz or wool@crichton.co.nz

Curtis Wool Direct (NZ) shows confidence in the future of New Zealand wool International wool merchant, Curtis Wool Direct Ltd, based in the United Kingdom, has the confidence to expand its already considerable interests in the New Zealand Wool Industry as it looks to take advantage of a changing wool trading and early stage processing environment.

ith existing offices and warehouses in the North and South Islands Curtis Wool Direct (NZ) Ltd is based in the port city of Napier and is ideally situated to meet all their clients wool needs and to increase the weight of wool handled and shipped to primary markets. Tim Holgate said “The ability to source our wool from both Islands and through our own channels gives us maximum efficiency and flexibility. We are able to offer our clients high quality wool at competitive prices.” Joint Managing Director Simon Curtis added “Our New Zealand office

enjoys over 50 years of experience in the industry exporting scoured, greasy and slipe wool to over 20 different countries. We place great emphasis on quality and reliability and believe we have a team who has justifiably earned a reputation for just that.” The Company specializes in all types of New Zealand wool and continues to operate a stock supported service in the true tradition of a wool merchant. Simon Curtis said “You cannot run a wool business unless you are prepared to buy wool and hold stock. We believe it is essential to do this in order to provide our customers with the type of service they would expect.”

Curtis Wool Direct (NZ) Unit 3, 105 Ford Road, Onekawa, PO Box 329, Napier New Zealand Tel: + 64 (06) 834 0698 Fax: + 64 (06) 8340792 Email: wool@wooldirectnz.co.nz

Another load of wool for Curtis Wool Direct NZ Ltd Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 69

CHINA

Challenging time for China wool textile industry The world economy is depressed again in the post-financial crisis period. The growth rate of the Chinese economy is therefore slowed. It is estimated that the GDP growth rate of 2012 is 7.5% compared to 9.2% of 2011. GDP increased 8.1% in Q1, 1.6 percentage points lower than the same period last year. There are great difficulties, especially with decreasing orders and higher costs of business, that have challenged the wool textile industry of China in the first half of 2012. Reduced demand resulted in the manufacturing capacity of some companies not being achieved. Raw wool import is declining. From January to May, 142,000 tonnes of wool are imported, 6.62% lower year on year.

By PENG Yanli, President China Wool Textile Association

s international markets weaken, overseas orders have decreased since early 2012. China Customs reports indicate that the majority of wool textile products have declined in export volume though in different levels. The export volume of wool top, yarn, fabrics, knitwear, woven garments fell by 27.48%, 14.30%, 4.59%, 27% and 17.72% respectively year on year. Wool carpet, the export volume of which raised by 70 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

30.7%, is the only catalogue increase year on year. Export value of wool products maintained slight growth year on year from January to May owing to price markups adapting to higher material prices. Export value to the EU declined sharply (accounting for 18.61%) by 10.81%, export value to Japan (accounting for 14.1%, +13.16%), HK (14.22%, +8.03%) and US (accounting for 10.09%, +6.34%) continued soft growth from January to May. Sales in the domestic market show a trend of slowing growth every month. Some enterprises that supply the domestic market said that demand in this area also fell this year. From January to May, the domestic sales value of wool textile enterprises above designated size account for 87.4% of total value, 9.13% higher year on year and 7.16 percentage points lower compared to Q1.

A common question raised by companies is the fast growth of costs. A survey conducted by CWTA indicates that there is 10% to 20% year-on-year growth in labor cost this year. Fuel and power is marked up by 4.5% year-on-year from January to May. A fluctuation in exchange rates further affects business. International and local pressure on the industry, especially escalating costs to companies, led to China textile industry losing its competitive strength. Competition among companies has intensified while competitive power has weakened in the global market. Countries with lower labor costs take up market share in some markets â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an issue the industry must pay more attention to. To response to current difficulties, companies have taken on technical innovation, improve equipment automation, focus on employee training, and enhance productivity to offset these rises in costs. Generally speaking, companies do not hold an optimistic attitude towards business for the second half of the year.

CHINA

Exporters offered advice and selling opportunities in China Nanjing Wool Market (NWM) should be the first point of contact for any wool company that wishes to do business in China. NWM is engaged in wool buying as well as facilitating effect business relationships between Chinese and foreign companies.

lthough NWM is well known internationally for its China Wool Trade Fair & Information Conference, says Madam Yang, General Manager at NWM ‘we are also a large importer of wool from around the world. We encourage wool exporters to contact us if they are interested in using our contacts to sell their wool in China. NWM was established in 1988 by China’s Ministry of Textile Industry. It is a sub-committee of the China Wool Textile Association (CWTA) with the responsibility of looking after issues of the early stage wool processing sector. It is also known as the Raw Wool Committee and is based in Nanjing. Foreign companies planning to set up their own offices in China, or that are instigating joint venture arrangements with Chinese wool and textile companies should also consult with CWTA or NWM.

processors, spinners, weavers, garment makers and retailers of wool and allied fibres all over China and also includes some foreign membership. The NWM hold its annual conference each September and this attracts over 600 delegates. This is a major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China and is attended by executives of all major Chinese wool buying and processing companies. It attracts representatives of the wool processing industry, and commercial circles from within China and from all wool producing countries. The conference provides an excellent opportunity for all delegates from

around the world to meet with China’s biggest wool buyers, all in one place. It also offers exhibition space for companies wishing to exhibit their products. The Conference is open to delegates from all around the world. Speakers at the Conference offer insight into the China wool industry and its future plans. It offers an excellent opportunity for delegates to mix with current and new clients. More information about NWM can be obtained on the English language website - www.woolmarket.com.cn. This website features the latest market reports, wool prices and other relevant information of interest to the international wool trade.

Madam Yang, General Manager of Nanjing Wool Market and her management team

‘As a statutory authority, we deal with information exchange, wool auctions, brokering, industry training, and technology consultation within the China wool industry. We can assist companies from outside China that require advise and introduction to companies here in China’, says Madam Yang. NWM membership includes woolgrowers, traders, primary Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 71

CHINA

Environmental credentials at the top of the agenda for Tianyu Exit Inspection and Quarantine Bureau clearance and has been awarded the ‘Class 1 Manufacturer of Industrial Products for Export’ in Jiangsu Province. It has ISO14000

Based on China Wool Textile Association statistics Tianyu Wool Industry (Zhangjiagang Free Trade Zone) Co., Ltd is one of the biggest producers of scoured wool and tops in China. It exports around 16% of all wool top produced in China.

ianyu has an annual capacity of 80,000 tons of scoured wool and more than 15,000 tons of various types of quality tops. Established in 1999 Tianyu is strategically close to Zhangjiagang International port, allowing for quick and cost effective logistics. ‘We operate modern machinery such as NSC PB30 from France, delivering an annual output of over 6,000 tons high quality wool tops. We have a reputation as the biggest top exporter in China’, says Tony WEN General Manager Tianyu Wool. The Company has strong working relationships with wool suppliers in Australia, South Africa, Argentina and other wool producing countries where it sources quality wool. It operates advanced scouring and top making machinery from New Zealand, Italy and France.

72 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Environment System Certification. Several years ago the company invested in wastewater pre-treatment and reclaimed water recycling projects in order to ensure that it meets the national requirements Tony WEN General Manager Tianyu Wool

for environmental protection. It is expected that the company will be able to meet EU environmental

Tianyu manufactures a full range of wool top products with little variations in length and fineness and a low short-fibre rate. It has won acclaim among its domestic and international clients, and has maintained a strong long-term partnership with some well-known international companies such as SudChemie in Germany and Marubeni Corporation in Japan.

protection standards this year.

The company places a strong focus on quality control. It successfully obtained ISO9001: 2000 Quality Management System Certificate in early 2001, while maintaining its AAA credit rating. The Company has invested millions of dollars in purchasing Almeters, appearance index testers, laser fibre fineness testers, whiteness testers and thermal control systems.

We strive to satisfy and understand

Tianyu is full member of INTERWOOLLAB and operates the latest wool testing equipment from Australia. It has Jiangsu Entry/

Tianyu runs a ANDAR TWIN 3M TOPMASTER scouring line. TWIN 3M TOPMASTER is fully computercontrolled with sophisticated technology and a highly efficient automatic wool warehousing and baling system. ‘At Tianyu we work closely with our customers around the world. customer requirement and expectation. We strive to deliver the best and the most competitively priced product’, concludes Mr Wen.

For more information please contact

Tianyu Wool Industry Website: http://www.tianyu-wool.com Email: info@tianyu-wool.com

CHINA

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 73

CHINA

Introduction of Jiangsu Australian Harvest Group

ased in the Free Trade Zone Australian Harvest is a leading company in the world wool textile industry with seven branches including fully imported scouring and Topmaking equipments and technologies as well as testing facilities. The Company is currently producing 25,000 tones of scoured wool and 15,000 tones of wool tops. The products have won good reputation and are mainly exported with a portion to be sold into the domestic market. The company has had more than 20 years experience in wool trading and early stage processing.

Mr. Zhu Zhongxian, Chairman and President of Jiangsu Australia Harvest Group

The company has received accreditation by ISO9000 in 2001, and accreditation by Interwoollabs in 2002. The company was nominated by the Jiangsu Provincial Government in 2005 as the Reputable Enterprise with AAA rating. Since 2005, the company has been rated by the Bank of China as the AAA credit recipient. The brand of wool top of the Australian Harvest has been elected as one of the top trading brands by the government both in 2005 and 2009. The company was also elected and the standing member of the China Wool Textile Association in 2006, 2008 and 2011. In addition, Australian Harvest has been nominated to be the member of the China â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Australian Joint Working Group on Wool. Since 2003, the company has been rated as one of the top 50 enterprises in the Chinese wool textile industry.

On behalf of the group, Mr. Zhu zhongxian, the Chairman and the Managing Director welcomes cooperation with clients both new and old to achieve win/ win business results in the future. 74 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

CHINA

Red Sun meeting challenges head on Notwithstanding the slowing of orders from Europe and the USA and the rapidly rising wool prices Red Sun Wool & Textile Co continues to invest in its company’s future.

S Mr YANG Shao Xiao

ince the formation of our company in 1993, we have been focused on our objective - to be a leading tops manufacturer and exporter. Today we are ranked as one of the major producers and exporters of quality wool tops, says Mr. Shaoxiao Yang, Chairman of Zhejiang Red Sun Wool & Textile Co Ltd. ‘We have achieved this by investing in quality machinery and in people that have great experience in producing great products’, says Mr Yang. ‘We are very flexible with our deliveries and our prices are very competitive’.

76 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Today Red Sun has an annual capacity of 15,000 tons of wool tops, including 3000 tons of super wash wool tops and Basolan. It produces wool tops of various specifications ranging from 15.5 to 32.0 microns including nonmulesing wool tops. The company product range consists of open tops, broken tops, sliver tops, Superwash & Soft Luster tops, Basolan tops, mohair tops, Lincoln tops, and more which are suitable for high-class worsted, semi-worsted and woolen textiles manufacturers. It also supplies noils and Lanolin all year around. Red Sun has a capacity to process 30 million kg of raw wool, produce 17 million kg of quality wool top and 3 million kg of Super Wash and Soft Lustre wool tops or Basolan tops.

CHINA

The company’s machinery includes an Andar wool scoring line, OCTIR (3.5M) fully-automatic wool comber from Italy, Thibeau (3.5M) wool comber from France and worldleading GC14, GC15 wool gill boxes and PB32, PB33 combers. It is also equipped with world-leading woolbale makers and wool-bale presses. The company is also equipped with an Italy-made OMMI fully automatic teaser system, Tecnomeccanica combined wool storage system and Superwash & Soft Luster wool tops system manufactured by CMT as well as Basolan production line. This is complimented by an advanced wastewater treatment system and a highly efficient Lanolin collecting system.

which has facilitated the sustainable production of the company.

most suitable wool to our customers’, concludes Mr Yang.

Red Sun supplies to clients in most provinces and cities in China and exports to clients in Germany, Turkey, Italy, Japan, and Korea.

For enquiries on wool supply channels in various regions, please contact

‘We aim to retain our position as one of the top producers and exporters of quality wool tops from China. We know that to achieve this we must offer unmatched quality and competitive prices to our existing customers as well as to our new customers. We have the technology, we have the required expertise, and we have unmatched passion for wool. We always strive to offer the

Miss Vivian Huang. Email: import-sfy@redsunwool.com. For enquiries on sale of products of various specifications, please contact Nick Chen. Email: cyg@redsunwool.com For enquiries on various cooperation projects, please contact Mr. Shaoxiao Yang. Email: ysx@redsunwool.com For more info, please visit our website: www.redsunwool.com

Red Sun is also known for its advanced product testing centre. The centre is equipped with the latest testing and measuring instruments such as ALMETER fibre length instrument, Sirolan-Laserscan and a Swiss-made Uster yarn evenness tester. The company is also known for its environmental credentials. Treated wastewater is directly discharged into a large wastewater treatment plant,

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 77

CHINA

Lianhong - delivering wool tops, yarn and garments to the world Environmentally friendly processes and products are the cornerstone of Lianhong Textiles. This company is Oeko—Tex Standard 100 accredited, has ‘Woolmark’ and ‘Woolmark Blend’ certificates issued by the International Wool Secretariat, and is ISO9001: 2008 Quality Management System Certified. yarn, 1,000 tons of semi-worsted yarn, 3,000 tons of worsted yarn, and 2.5 million knitted garments. These products are exported to all parts of the world. ‘We remain focused on innovation, and research and development,’ says Zha Xiao Gang, President at Lianhong Textiles. ‘We employ more than 1000 people, including 200 technical personnel and personnel advancement is also high on our agenda’.

ianhong Textiles is one of China’s leading producers of cashmere knitting yarn, wool knitting yarn, knitted garments and wool tops. It was established in 1956 and is based in Zhangjiagang, a port city in the Yangtze Delta. Lianhong Textiles is listed among the Top 10 Enterprises in China’s Woollen and Worsted Spinning Industry and its cashmere yarn is recognised in the Top 10 Brands in China’s Cashmere Yarn Industry. Lianhong Textiles has an annual production capacity of 6,000 tons of wool tops, 3,500 tons of woollen

78 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

The wool top making subsidiary of Lianhong Textiles has imported 5 production lines from France and Italy. The woollen spinning subsidiary has imported 21 production lines from Japan and Italy, and has become the largest woollen yarn production base in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. The worsted spinning subsidiary has imported NSC spinning preparation machines from France and 20,000-spindle Zinser spinning frames and Schlafhorst winders from Germany. The knitting subsidiary is equipped with 123 Stoll computerized flat knitting machines from Germany.

Zha Xiao Gang, President at Lianhong Textiles

‘In the last decade we have responded well to global demand, and we have withstood such economic tests as the Global Financial Crisis,’ Mr Zha Xiao Gang says. ‘We have increased our overall turnover on a yearly basis and have made significant achievements in production quality and assurance. The support of local government and the strong teamwork of our employees have played a crucial role. As a result we have not experienced any difficulties and business continues to improve.’ ‘Our company can satisfy the demands of buyers of wool tops, yarn, and garments. We welcome enquiries from customers interested in establishing mutually beneficial relationships with us,’ concludes Mr Zha Xiao Gang. For more information please contact Jianwen Zhang Email: heinrichzhang@lianhongtex.com Tel:+86-512-58416016 www.lianhongtex.com

A success story spinning more than years

Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles Co has been supplying its customers worldwide with tops, yarn and garments for over half a century. It is one of China’s leading producers of cashmere knitting yarn, wool knitting yarn, knitted garments, and wool tops. Our range of products and our attention to quality & service always put us ahead. ✔ 6,000 tons of wool tops ✔ 3,500 tons of woollen yarn ✔ 1000 tons of semi-worsted yarn ✔ 3,000 tons of worsted yarn ✔ 2.5 million knitted garments ✔ Woolmark license ✔ Woolmark Blend license ✔ ISO9001:2008 Quality Management System Certificate ✔ Oeko-Tex Standard 100

Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles Co Ltd

No. 7 Renmin Road, Miaoqiao Town, Zhangjiagang, Jiangsu, China 215615 Tel: 86-512-58416016 • Fax: 86-512-58460872 • Email: heinrichzhang@lianhongtex.com

www.lianhongtex.com

AUSTRALIA

Techwool - increasing its reach Techwool Trading (TWT) is more than just a wool export company. ‘Our customers also see us as offering expert advice for all their processing requirements’, says Josh Lamb Trading Manager at TWT. ‘Our wide reach across Australia also affords us strength in buying choice as well as advising on the best wool for specific uses. Our wide reach across Australia also affords us strength in buying choice and price’.

echwool has recently opened a new office in Fremantle, Western Australia to better facilitate its access to Western Australian wools. The company is involved in direct buying from farms across the country, with buyers now in all wool growing region of Australia.

Techwool team left to right front row: Ken Welsh, Rod Franklyn and Joshua Lamb Back row: Stuart Greenshields, Brendon Miller, and Geoff Stevens

‘Europe and Asia are familiar territories for us. We are one of the biggest exporters of Australian wool to India. We have proven over many years that we can service these markets and we know how to do this with traditional wool types’, says Ken Welsh India Trading Manager. ‘There has been a lot of pressure on the industry in recent months but we are business as usual. We are still experiencing many positives. Medium (20 - 24µ) wools have maintained profitable levels. Better than average

rainfall in the eastern states of Australia provided good yields to the gross value of wool clips in this range.’ TWT has a turnover of some 240,000 bales per year. The company employs its own experienced wool buyers, working in every auction and buying centre in Australia. It also sources wool directly from woolgrowers using its network of agents and dealers. Utilising direct buying and the traditional auction the company ensures that it can deliver wool at competitive prices. ‘We also take the time to discuss the needs of each customer and advise them in the best way for any type of wool to be processed. We can advise a client on the best wool to use to suit a particular product’, says Mr Lamb. ‘We constantly check and assess how wool will perform best during processing. This enables us to understand our customers’ requirements for a uniform delivery of wool that will process consistently’. TWT supplies small and large customers worldwide with standard types from fine to medium merino fleece wools, crossbred fleece & blend types as well as skirting and carding types. The company traditionally values greasy wool by style, top length, tensile strength, and background colour. It provides for the different requirements of companies processing wool in such distinct parts of the world as China, India, and Europe. Both Ken Welsh and Josh Lamb travel frequently to visit customers in Europe and Asia. For more information please contact Josh Lamb or Ken Welsh - Email trading@techwool.com.au Tel (Office) + 61 3 9360 9256

80 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

100%

Australian wool from farm to export

•

Leading supplier of Australian greasy wool to China with a strong focus on quality and consistency.

• •

than 25 years experience in greasy wool export to China, India, Japan and Europe.

With Buying and Trading staff experience across a vast

range of types Techwool can satisfy your greasy Merino Fleece, Pieces, Open Top, Carding and Crossbred needs.

•

Purchasing

from all three major Auction centres in Australia coupled with our comprehensive Country Dealer and Grower network Techwool have access to Australia’s best wool all year round.

Techwool Trading

105 Boundary Road, Laverton North, 3026 • PO Box 437, Laverton North, 3028 Victoria Australia Telephone: +61 3 9360 9177 • Fax: +61 3 9369 2997 • Email: trading@techwool.com.au • www.techwool.com.au

AUSTRALIA

Wool supply set to increase Australian Wool Network (AWN) can now supply even more wool to the international wool processing market.

ver the past twelve months the company has strengthened its number of field staff by an additional nine employees. The appointments will allow AWN to secure an even greater proportion of wool from some of the country’s best wool growers. Managing Director John Colley said the new appointments in Victoria, Tasmania and South Australia would increase the company’s reach and

enable it to increase its supply arrangements with international processors, particularly in China. He said, “The supply of greasy wool for export is just one of the many facets of the AWN business.” “At present we have access to around 15% of the national clip, however by strengthening our field staff we anticipate growing that figure considerably in the years to come. The type of wool produced by our

Access to Australia’s Best Wool At Australian Wool Network our wool growing clients are Australia’s best. Like us, they are committed to wool, its quality and processing performance. Our national team provides our clients with: u u u u

clip specific wool preparation advice, sheep and wool classing, advice for on-farm wool production, and industry information to help meet wool processing requirements.

Visit www.visione.com.au and see how our client’s wool is being used.

AWN has access to Australia’s best wool growers – if you need wool, talk to us!

Ph: +61 2 9912 6222 Fx: +61 9754 2233 Em: awninfo@woolnetwork.com.au www.woolnetwork.com.au

82 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

AUSTRALIA

AWN has access to some 15% of the Australian wool clip and growing

wool growing clients varies which means we can meet a number of different types of wool processing orders,” “We can source and supply wools ranging from ultra fine merino grown on native bush runs in Tasmania and in the New England area of New South Wales, right through to broader medium and strong wool merino and even Dohne style wools”, Mr Colley said. Direct alliances with wool processors and manufacturers are not uncommon for AWN; the company was established in 1999 on a unique vertically integrated structure that represented each stage of the wool processing pipeline. The acumen gained from this structure has since positioned AWN as leaders in wool grower to wool processor alliances.

For woolgrowers, direct alliances with wool processors provide an important management tool, enabling wool growers to work toward predefined supply contracts, better manage on farm wool production and operate their businesses more profitably. “Our long held vision to bring wool growers and wool processors closer together is stronger today than ever before. We are continually working with processors to provide a continuity of wool that will meet their specific requirements.” In 2008 AWN realized its vision ‘to bring wool growers and wool processors closer together’ by developing its own range of next to skin merino t-shirts. The t-shirts were made from wool grown by AWN’s wool growing clients and then processed and manufactured through the company’s network.

According to Mr Colley, the t-shirts, called ‘Visione’ (an Italian word for vision) have been extremely well received. “The Visione t-shirts continue to demonstrate how the quality of the product can be influenced at any stage; from on farm, in the wool shed, through to processing, manufacturing and even at a retail level.” “Our wool growing clients understand the entire process and embrace the challenges that it brings to ensure they can continue to grow and supply the world’s best wool,” Mr Colley said. For more information and to purchase the Visione t-shirts visit www.visione.com.au Australian Wool Network can be contacted on + 61 2 9912 6222 or via email at awninfo@woolnetwork.com.au or by visiting www.woolnetwork.com.au Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 83

AUSTRALIA

Australian Wool Review 2011-12

ost of Australia’s wool growing areas experienced good seasonal conditions, but not without some summer flooding again in Eastern Australia. It was very pleasing to see the big improvement in Western Australia which had experienced very dry conditions in 2010/11. The 2010/11 season set a standard for prices which was always going to be hard to repeat. The AWEX EMI had peaked at 1436¢ in Week 51 and finished the season at 1409¢. The equivalent values in US currency were 1515¢ and 1513¢, which were well above the previous peak of around 945¢ in the late 1980’s Progressive easing continued throughout the current season, before it closed with the EMI at 1076¢. Although well below the closing EMI in the previous year, it was 140¢ the previous highest value of 937¢ in 2002/03 when the market lifted after the disposal of the stockpile. Although prices eased from their record levels in the previous season, 84 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

great boost in 2010/11 from the big lift in buying for Italy that resulted in a 95% increase in exports of Australian wool to Italy that year. This was not matched in 2011/12 when exports to Italy were down by 16% to the end of May.

by Peter Morgan, Australian Council of Wool Exporters & Processors

the average AWEX EMI of 1198¢ in 2011/12 was the highest ever. Fine wool growers who had enjoyed rises of 60% to 90% in the fine wool average AWEX Micron Price Guides (MPGs) in 2010/11 lost a significant part of those gains this year when the same MPGs eased by 30% to 40% during the season. Medium and broader Merino wool fared better during 2011/12, with the average MPGs easing from a fall of 18% at 20 microns to falls of 9% at 23 microns and 1% at 24 microns. Crossbred average MPGs were down by amounts from 4% to 13%. Prices at the fine end had received a

The wool market fared quite well despite the many blows to global economic confidence and demand during the year. Much of this was due to the well documented crises in the Eurozone, of which the most recent were the failure of the Greek Parliament to form a Government after the May elections, and the more recent problems in Spain. Any fall in global economic confidence was invariably accompanied by cautious demand and lower prices for all commodities including wool. This was most apparent during the Greek parliamentary problems in May, when the EMI fell from 1170¢ in early May to 1054¢ before the second Greek election was held in mid-June. The wool market has also done well

AUSTRALIA

when compared with other fibres. For example, the National Cotton Council of America “A” Index fell by more than 50% in the twelve months to June this year (from 167 US¢ per pound to 82¢) and by 18% in the two month period from April to June this year (from 100¢ to 82¢ ). Both falls are in excess of the falls in wool prices over the same periods.

that imported wool from Australia in

Wool Exports

customer country requirements for

Export data are only available to the end of May at the time of writing. Total exports were down by 9.8% in that period, which is quite different to the expectation of no change on wool production. However, it is much closer to the 6% fall in the number of bales sold at auction. The difference from the expected change in wool production was due to the release of large quantities of “old” wool held on-farm and in brokers’ stores that came onto the market in response to the very favourable wool prices in 2010/11. This wool gave a boost to the export and auction data for that year. Among Australia’s major export destinations, exports by weight to China rose from 74.4% of total exports in 2010/11 to 75.8%, while exports to India fell from 7.7% to 6.7% and exports to Italy fell from 5.1% to 4.9%. The share going to the Czech Republic (4.0%) and to Taiwan (2.3%) were relatively unchanged.

Wool Processing Although early stage wool processing in Australia fell sharply between 2000 and 2010, the three remaining companies based in Victoria and Australia provide a valuable service to Australian wool exporters and to the Australian wool industry at large. They processed approximately 10% of Australia’s production in 2011/12; and scoured and / or carbonised wool was exported to 24 of the 29 countries

the eleven months to May 2012. Looking to the future, Australia is currently reviewing its readiness if there was an outbreak of an “exotic” disease. Scouring is the simplest way of deactivating any such virus on that may be present on wool and will be a key part of Australia’s plans. Also, any possible change in Craig Wales

the importation of “lower” lines of wool can be addressed by scouring first in Australia.

Terms and Conditions for Trade in Wool Between China and Australia Considerable work has occurred in Australia and China in the last six months in reviewing the 2000 Standard Wool Contract for trade in wool between China and Australia and New Zealand. A new document has been drafted for trade between China and Australia. It includes many changes from the 2000 Standard Contract and the 1990 Chinatex Terms and Conditions, of which the most important is the inclusion of additional procedures for dispute resolution. The new procedures are based an industry based process that is jointly managed by Chinese and Australian wool industries. It is similar to the approach used in the IWTO arbitration process and avoids the need to go immediately to arbitration by CIETAC if the buyer and seller cannot resolve the dispute. The document is nearing completion and will be signed by representatives of the Nanjing Wool Market, the China Wool Textile Association and the Federation of Australian Wool Organisations at the Nanjing Wool Market Conference in Sanya in

New Divisional Manager for AWTA Product Testing

WTA Product Testing has appointed a new Divisional Manager. Craig Wales has replaced John Lewis who has retired after many years in the industry. AWTA Product Testing is a division of Australian Wool Testing Authority the largest wool testing organisation in the world. It comprises three operational divisions; AWTA Raw Wool, AWTA Product Testing and Agrifood Technology, its wholly owned subsidiary NZWTA and its joint venture JinAo Testing Company. AWTA Product Testing provides independent materials testing to a broad range of industries internationally including fibres, yarn, textiles, plastics, automotive and building industries. Mr Wales has previously worked in a number of diverse industries and brings with him a great wealth of experience in quality assurance, product management and product development. Mr Wales said that his priority is to ensure that there is a strong customer focus in every aspect of AWTA Product Testing.

September. Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 85

AUSTRALIA

100%

Australian scoured wool from VWP

There are a number of reasons why it is always better to buy Australian wool in scoured or carbonised form rather than greasy, according to Paul Ferronato, Senior Wool Buyer at Victoria Wool Processors (VWP). The main reason is that the customer will receive 100% Australian wool. Australian quarantine laws prevent the importation of foreign wools into Australia that ensures it is not blended with inferior types.

nd if you think that processing wool in Australia is more expensive, think again. Scouring and carbonising wool is very competitively priced in Australia. ‘It cost virtually the same as processing it in China’, says Mr Ferronato. The costs of labour, energy, water treatment and transportation has

Left to right: Paul Ferronato and Mr Myungjin (Jim) who established VWP in 1990. VWP is now the largest wool processing company in Australia.

risen considerably in Asia. This factor coupled with quality and cost efficiency offered by VWP gives them the edge in offering customers the best possible processing options. VWP has been processing Australian wool for over 30 years and has excellent environmental credentials. It leads in the reduction of water consumption and is constantly upgrading its effluent treatment plant. VWP is Australia’s largest wool processor, offering a varied range of scoured and carbonised types to suit a cross section of needs from spinners and weavers. From new season merino lambs to full length merino fleece and all crossbred types, VWP can supply a product to suit any need. We also offer a full commission scouring or carbonising service tailored to each customer’, says Mr Ferronato. ‘Our expertise and our advanced carbonising plant enable

86 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

us to carbonise from the finest merino wool to the coarsest downs wool. Using clean Australian water combined with the latest in processing technology, our wools are well known for cleanliness, strength and consistency’, says Mr Kim. ‘We can supply carbonised wool of all types, lengths and qualities to customers throughout the world. We can work directly with spinners to develop specific types most suited to their needs’. VWP has wool buyers in all wool buying centres in Australia and can buy wool for customers if required. It also offers forward and prompt shipping and logistic services to all parts of the world. The company employs Chinese, Korean, Italian and Japanese speakers, making communication easy for its customers in any part of the world. ‘Scoured and carbonised wool provides a win win outcome to both exporter and processor. Both parties receive what is specified, and they save money on transportation costs when the wool is already clean, and contamination remains in the country of origin’, concludes Paul Ferronato. Email: jkim@vwp.com.au or paulf@vwp.com.au Tel. 61 3 9369 0499 www.vwp.com.au

Victoria Wool Processors

AUSTRALIA

Connecting wool growers to Italy’s finest New England Wool (NEW) has consistently been the largest buyer of spinner type superfine wools (18.5u and finer) in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.

he company was founded in Australia in 1990 to source wool to suit the particular spinning and weaving needs of REDA and Vitale Barberis Canonico, famous fabric manufacturers in Italy. The company provides an effective communication link between these Italian shareholders and one of their most valuable assets - the producers. New England Wool procures the highest quality wool (and mohair) that the main growing countries can produce. ‘Today we purchase approximately 30,000 bales per annum for our Italian shareholders’, says Andrew Blanch, Managing Director at NEW. The company operates offices in

Allan & Carol Phillips winners of Ultimate Clip Competition 2010/11

Andrew Blanch

Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. Mr Blanch is the author of A Guide to Classing and Preparation of Wool Clips 18.5u and Finer, published in 2008. ‘With the support of Reda and Barberis, we encourage professional wool growers to breed and prepare their product to the highest possible quality standards. We do this by supplying critical feedback and supporting the best clips in the auction room. Obviously, the bottom line is endeavouring to create higher returns to superfine wool growers’. Mr Blanch said that New England Wool, on behalf of the Italian shareholders, is committed to quality and diversification. ‘The most recent Ultimate Clip Award demonstrated the quality entries as well as the sheer perseverance shown by growers to continue to deliver top class wool in the wake of the Global Financial Crisis. It was very impressive especially when you consider that the financial incentive to prepare wool to such high standards has not been evident in the past few years. I am convinced that if wool growers continue to improve the quality of their wool production the industry will remain

88 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

resilient, no matter what the future holds.’ NEW Australia is involved in running the Ultimate Clip Competition designed to encourage the professional woolgrower in best wool growing practices. The competition rewards those clips that exhibit excellence in all characteristics of wool and the preparation of the entire clip for sale. ‘We are not into promoting one fleece or one bale’, said Mr Blanch. ‘It is all about the production of commercial quantities of sound, stylish superfine wool – because that is what we need’. This Competition promotes the ‘green’ production of superfine wool with an emphasis on wool produced under natural pastoral / grazing conditions. New England Wool supports wool production where stock are bred and managed to achieve their natural potential, and wool is prepared with the quality fabric maker in mind. ‘Our objectives are many’, says Mr Blanch. ‘We support and encourage the professional woolgrower and have strong communication links with these woolgrowers and associated groups. We provide a superior and consistent raw product to our Italian shareholders and provide advice and feedback on the Clip Preparation requirements of our customers. We also provide producers with information on market trends and other relevant information to help maximise returns for these woolgrowers’. Mr Blanch added that, ‘this charter is also being rolled out in South Africa through New England Wool SA where we continue to foster relationships with the best mohair producers from The Cape and source their fantastic product’.

SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa

Q A &

with New Manager at Cape Wools by Victor Chesky

Louis de Beer has been Manager of Cape Wools for less than a year but I recently caught up with him in Port Elizabeth and asked him how he is settling into this new role.

You have a background in the wine industry. What are the differences and similarities in these two industries?

The most obvious similarities between the wine and the wool industry are the passionate, determined and resourceful people found in both industries. Both industries compete on global markets where their competitors are supported by their respective governments. The local industries receive very little support and are challenged daily 90 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

by the forces of nature, currency and market fluctuations as well as international and local politics. Wool sheep farming forms part of the small stock industry of South Africa and I have found wool farmers to be competent and dedicated as well as compassionate and kind.

The wool industry in South Africa has had its share of

challenges - drought, Rift Valley Fever, and predation. How has the industry coped with these

SOUTH AFRICA

challenges and what plans does Cape Wools have in combating this?

Drought, Rift Valley Fever and predation all have serious detrimental consequences for our wool sheep farmer. Rift Valley Fever especially so as it also impacts on our export markets as a result of the requirements for international health certification required by our trading partner nations. The outbreak of Rift Valley Fever is now over and we are left to count the costs and prepare ourselves for the future. It is imperative that our farmers have confidence in the vaccines they will administer in future and in this regard we are working with the producers of the vaccine to ensure the efficacy of these vaccines. Traceability of the origin of the wool is key to combating any disease outbreaks and the industry has geared itself to comply with traceability initiatives of Cape Wools in partnership with the Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. Mutually beneficial Public Private Partnerships with government will form the basis of future engagements with government as industries accept full responsibility for their industries’ disease management. This will also support government when coming to terms with the complexities of governing SA Agriculture. We recognise predation as a serious threat to the sustainability of the wool industry and are sensitive to the emotional and financial damage inflicted by Jackal and Caracal on our woolgrowers. Within the ambit of the law, Cape Wools will do everything possible to assist with the protection of the SA flock against predation through continued participation in organised structures, thereby ensuring that our sheep farmers’ rights to conduct their

business of wool sheep farming are unobstructed.

the future for the wool industry worldwide?

Cape Wools supports many initiatives to raise the profile of South African wool. What is on the agenda for the coming year?

South Africa has a reputation of delivering a well-classed clip to the international wool textile markets and we continue to build on this reputation through promotion and education initiatives at grower level. Wool clip contamination remains a constant priority and we are again highlighting the various causes of contamination and will continue to promote the Code of Practice for Clip Preparation in this regard. Shearers have become a focal point for Cape Wools since skilled shearers are vital to the industry. A Code of Best Practice for the Shearing industry has already been drawn up and we will continue to promote and improve on this code. Cape Wools’ service provider, The National Woolgrowers of South Africa, and its highly skilled field advisers are instrumental in this regard.

Cape Wools has been a contributor and support of the Campaign for Wool (CFW). Has this been positive for South African wool?

It would be arrogant of me to make predictions about the future for the wool industry worldwide, and I shall not attempt t o do so. My comments should instead be regarded as coming from someone privileged to have experienced, for the first time this year, a small part of the dynamics of the global wool industry. With global wool supply still declining and year-end inventory at levels equal to 10% of expected annual demand, global demand for wool remains strong and despite doomsday prophecies I believe that this trend should continue, based on the popularity of wool as the customer’s natural fibre of choice. I realise that the Wool Industry is not immune to the global financial crisis and recessions nor to the effects of extreme weather conditions, regional conflicts or exchange and interest rate fluctuations and that all of these will undoubtedly impact over the short to medium term resulting in volatility on our markets. However, the world’s population now exceeds seven billion people and it is generally accepted that another billion will be added by 2025. This fundamentally supports strong future demand for our scarce resource. The South African wool industry is upbeat about its future.

The Campaign for Wool is regarded by Cape Wools as very successful. The positive spin-offs of the campaign are felt throughout the industry and we are privileged to partake. We firmly believe that the campaign contributes to the health of the SA wool industry. It has improved the visibility of the industry and Cape Wools will certainly continue to support the Campaign in the foreseeable future.

Coming from outside of the wool industry, how do you see Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 91

SOUTH AFRICA

Good rainfall was experienced in most of the major wool-producing regions, resulting in excellent growing conditions, except in some areas in the Northern parts of the country where little rain has fallen. However, all in all conditions for most of the wool-growing areas have been the best for many years.

Best season in years for South African wool

The South African Merino has, over the years, been bred for less skin folds or a ‘smoother’ body conformation

he 2011/’12 season has been one of the best in years. Prices have been fairly stable at high levels throughout the season with the average Merino market indicator up 37% on last season’s average.

As a result, the quality of the bulk of wool deliveries has been good and clean yields have improved quite substantially compared with previous seasons, with many Merino clips achieving a clean yield of 70% and higher. Despite the good rainfall throughout the country, which authorities feared could have resulted in increased mosquito activity, no outbreaks of Rift Valley Fever (RVF) have occurred since July 2011. Producers nevertheless took precautionary measures by vaccinating their animals. Notwithstanding the good growing conditions, production has declined for a second season in a row. Interim figures indicate a 3% fall to around 44 mkg. It is thought that this decline can to a large degree be attributed to the after effects of RVF. Predation also played a role. The current micron profile shows that the South African clip is trending finer, with a significant increase in the production of 19-20μ categories, which now represents 42% of the total clip compared with 33% in 2008/09. Around 98% of the clip tested 24μ and finer, with 11,6% below 19μ.

92 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

SOUTH AFRICA

Provisional export figures for the season show a sharp increase in exports to China, while export to the euro zone, particularly Italy, declined. The five top export destinations are China, the Czech Republic, India and Italy.

Much effort invested in shearer training The South African wool industry invests much time and effort in shearer training, not only to facilitate the harvesting process, but also to ensure that wool is harvested according to the highest standards and practices of the Code of Best Practices for production and shearing. Since a large percentage of the clip is shorn by hand, South Africa boasts the best blade shearers in the world. During the recent World Shearing Championships held in New Zealand, the two South African contenders finished first and second in the bladeshearing event. There are various reasons why many producers prefer hand shearing to machine shearing, the main being animal health. Some find the noise Most of the South African clip is shorn by hand. Many woolgrowers prefer blade shearing to the noise of machines shearing

Meticulous classing of the clip remains a priority for the South African woolgrower. Here fine-wool grower Mike Palmer and his daughter Joanne are classing a fleece. He normally classes his wool into 22 different lines to obtain evenness of any measured or immeasurable properties within an individual line

made by machine shearing too stressful for the sheep.

a priority for the South African woolgrower.

In many of the rural areas weather conditions can be extreme, with cold spells in the middle of summer not uncommon, hand shearing allows the shearer to leave slightly more wool on the sheep than is the case with machine shearing, thus providing slightly more protection against the cold.

One of the most important criteria of the Code is for the classer to obtain evenness of any measured or immeasurable properties within an individual line. Thus, minimum variation around properties such as micron, length, strength, vegetable matter (VM), yield, quality and appearance, is critically important.

Several shearer training and refresher courses in blade and machine shearing are presented throughout the year. To improve shearing standards, provincial and national shearing competitions are held.

However, unnecessary fragmentation of a clip is not encouraged as this increases post-farm gate handling and marketing costs and does not guarantee a higher price for the grower. The key to efficient classing is balancing these two conflicting requirements for maximizing the income from the clip as a whole.

South African shearers also regularly participate in international events, such as Golden Shears World Championships and the Tri-nations shearing tests in New Zealand and Australia.

Classing remains a priority Meticulous classing of the clip according the standards and guidelines laid down in the Code of Practice for Clip Preparation remains 94 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

The Code provides for a wide range of classes into which the various components of a shorn fleece can be assembled and packed for the market. However, this does not mean that the classer has to use all of the classes available. The second, and equally important responsibility of the classer is to identify, prevent and remove

SOUTH AFRICA

all contamination from a line of prepared wool before it is packed and pressed. This includes wool stained with tar, urine, dung, blood, paint, branding fluids or discoloured by fungi or chemicals. Wool from the back of the sheep that deviates in appearance, quality and VM contamination from the rest of the fleece is removed and packed separately. Similarly, neck-fold wools, breech wool or portions of the fleece containing excessive vegetable matter is packed separately and marked with a single length symbol according to the guidelines laid down in the code. Farmers who do their own classing regularly attend classing courses. Other farmers prefer to use the services of accredited trained classers. These classers are required to attend two one-week courses after which a strict screening process is followed. The standard of classing achieved by these classers is monitored when the wool is received at the wool brokers’ store.

Predators are a major problem Small stock farmers face a major challenge from predation, with jackals and caracals the major culprits. This has led to the establishment of the Predation Management Forum (PMF) that will undertake a governmentfunded, scientific assessment of the problem. A draft proposal for the development of a focus area for research on predation management has been compiled with the objective of creating a comprehensive understanding of the nature and scope of the issue of livestock and wildlife predation by means of a formal scientific assessment. This will provide baseline data and relevant information regarding the extent and impact of predation in South Africa.

A young Anatolian shepherd dog guarding a flock of sheep. These dogs are also effective against predators.

Predation by black-backed jackals and caracal occurs across the country and is believed to be increasing. In addition, vagrant domesticated dogs, especially in peri-urban areas near cities and towns, are also causing sheep and goat losses. One of the issues on which the research will focus is the impact of wildlife and livestock management regimes on predators and their natural prey. This will provide a basis for developing a comprehensive predator management framework and guidelines for farmers, wildlife ranchers and policy makers.

heart rate of the animal, an alarm call is sent out, which also indicates in which group of animals the problem has occurred. In addition, a daily report call is sent out to indicate that the device is still active. Should the animal wearing the collar be killed or lose its collar, an “animal is dead” message is sent.

A special collar that is gaining in popularity in the war against predators and stock theft. The collar sends a message to owner when there is unusual activity in a flock

Meanwhile, farmers employ various tactics to protect their sheep flocks, of which a popular choice is using Anatolian shepherd dogs. Eastern Cape fine-wool breeder Mike Palmer, whose farm is surrounded by game reserves, has three Anatolians, of which one is still in training. Since using these dogs, stock losses due to predators have decreased substantially, he says. Also gaining in popularity is the use of a special collar that sends signals to the stockowner’s mobile phone when there is unusual activity in the flock. The collar, which is fitted to one animal in a flock, monitors the heart rate of the animal. When there is a sudden sharp increase in the Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 95

SOUTH AFRICA

Increase in demand for South African Wool worldwide During a recent visit to Port Elizabeth in South Africa Victor Chesky spend time discussing issues at the forefront of the minds of wool exporters in South Africa. He spoke with Paul Lynch & Mark Wright of Standard Wool SA and got their views on present issues and what is likely to come...

Q Paul Lynch (left) and Mark Wright

South African wool exports rely heavily on China. How do you see this market performing going forward?

well for a variety of applications.

exporting to China for many years

Of course China is the biggest buyer of South African wool and Standard Wool SA is the biggest exporter of greasy wool to China from South Africa. Mills in China know very well that South African wool has excellent characteristics and performs

Certainly China is channelling its wool more substantially into its domestic market. We have been and we are very well aware of the requirements the Chinese mills have regarding wool types, quality and documentation. We trust that our good relationship with China and our reliable service and quality product

Exporters of South African greasy scoured, carbonized wool

96 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

SOUTH AFRICA

will continue well into the future. I believe that we will have to work more closely with our customers in China to assist them in all stages to ensure that they are competitive.

Q A

Standard Wool SA exports large quantities of wool. How do you manage quality and customer relations? We are the biggest exporter of South African greasy wool, with markets in China, India, Europe and the Americas.

We have a network of clients to whom we supply greasy wool, scoured and carbonized wool. We value the wool twice, once with our technical people, and then again as owners we check every lot. We understand the needs and requirements of each of our clients because we travel to see them and then ensure that correct deliveries are always made. And of course all wool is tested by an independent IWTO-accredited laboratory (Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa) and IWTO test certificates are used as a basis of trading as per the international norm. South African merino wool has earned a reputation for uniformity, softness and high staple strength. Although our wool doesn’t have the same specifications in yield and vm as Australian wool, if used correctly South African wool will perform just as well or even better. Users of South African wool worldwide know of these attributes and this is why we have seen such an increase in purchases worldwide. We also have experience in every range of South African greasy wool, ranging from the lowest quality to spinner style fine wools.

South Africa is almost entirely free of mulesed sheep. Is this an incentive for customers, particularly in

Europe?

Mulesing is virtually unknown in South Africa as over the years South African merino has been bred for less skin

folds. Companies concerned about the mulesing issue can buy our South African wool knowing that this will not be a problem for them further down the processing pipeline.

Q A

The South African clip is likely to drop this year. How do you see this affecting your ability to fulfil orders? South African wool clip has not diminished to a level that should cause alarm. We buy in the region of 100 000

bales each year, the majority of those bales are exported as greasy wool. Our processed products and greasy wool prices are competitive. We have knowledge and experience in using South African wool. We ensure that the correct wool is bought to produce the correct product at the right price. We will be working hard to ensure that our customers have their orders filled on time and to budget. For more information please contact Paul Lynch at paul@

H. Dawson Wool Returns to South Africa

. Dawson wool has announced that it has returned to South Africa, where it first opened an office in 1969. The office, which is in Port Elizabeth, will be a hub for customers and suppliers to find out more about what H. Dawson Wool has to offer. The company is proud to be back in South Africa, where it is looking forward to sourcing some of the area’s finest wools. South Africa offers numerous breeds of sheep each with their own unique characterises allowing the purchaser numerous choices. In recent years, South African wool has become very popular in China and exports to the country have significantly increased. This move has offered H Dawson South Africa (HDSA) a great opportunity to restart the business under the leadership of Ivan Smith, who is working very closely with the extremely experienced and knowledgeable HD Beijing team. Ivan is very experienced in wool, having started his career in the industry over 24 years ago. HDSA is planning to focus on specific client needs with prompt order prompt deliver services, offering current and future clients an impartial world class service. The team will comprise well equipped, friendly and service driven staff, who have the contacts, the industry knowledge and the ability to ensure the highest quality South Africa wool is supplied to customers in China. CEO of H. Dawson, Jo Dawson, said: “H. Dawson Wool is proud of its international reach and to re-open the office in South Africa will enable us to further strengthen our position in the global wool market. By investing in this area, not only are we sending out a strong message to suppliers and buyers that South Africa has some fantastic wool products, but we can continue to tell consumers that wool matters, wool is fashionable and wool is desirable.” Ivan Smith can be contacted at HDSA on +27 834 592 242

standardwool.co.za or Mark Wright mark@standardwool.co.za Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 97

MOHAIR SA

Mohair

Mohair â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the fibre of the future The mohair industry has always been a proud industry. The daily struggles with inclement weather conditions, predators and the high input costs are not for the faint hearted.

holds it shape, an increasing number of high-fashion garments are being designed using mohair, inspiring a new generation of knitters. Recently mohair has been seen at

n expected cold front would see you swop your comfy TV chair for driving around in stormy weather herding goats to safety or trying to save a precious angora kid that has been attacked by a predator. The farmers that are left in this industry are passionate and tough.

attention that the knitwear and

all the major fashion shows across

hand-knitting trends are currently

Europe. Interesting to note that

experiencing could be a reason for

younger more edgy designers like

the current upsurge in young goat

Dolce and Gabana and Dsquared

and fine adult prices. We have seen

have been using mohair in innovative

a younger generation exploring their

ways.

The latest upswing in mohair use and the expected turnaround in production is a beacon of hope in this challenging fibre industry. The

discovering the benefits and flexibility

98 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

creativity with various mediums and knitting is fast becoming a new form of expression. With young designers of working with natural fibres,

American designer, Michael Kors used mohair as part of his collection, combining it with cashmere and wool, for a luxurious opulent look.

mohair especially, because of its

The velour industry has also seen a

innate elasticity that ensures that it

surge as consumers are moving back

MOHAIR SA

to luxurious fabrics. Europe is also responsible for the big uptake of the young goat mohair. In these regions the velour is used to create outstanding quality upholstery with the biggest end consumer markets for velour being the US and Europe. Japan, Taiwan and Korea are the important consumer markets for the knitwear and fine worsted sector. It seems that the green movement and the move towards natural fibres are some of the basic new ideals guiding the way for trend forecasters, designers and most definitely consumers. The benefit of sustainable natural fibre resources is that they can be regrown, without negative side-effects on global bio-diversity. The transition towards a bio-based economy and sustainable developments is a consequence of the Kyoto protocols on greenhouse gas reduction, this means high potential for natural fibre markets. Mohair’s soft luxurious handle and rich lustre combined with great durability provide for a long lasting product, which informed consumers insist on.

Mohair sa collaborates with world renowned trend forecaster - Li Edelkoort From Paris and Shanghai to New York and Cape Town: Mohair SA, in collaboration with leading trends forecaster Li Edelkoort, continue to take the world trade shows by storm. With the growing popularity of movements such as crocheting, yarn bombing and guerrilla knitting, along with the revival of creative textiles and knits, mohair has gone from fringe to centre stage. Mohair SA, in collaboration with the Edelkoort Inc. team, launched the “Do It Yourself Yourself” initiative at three trade shows worldwide in 2011/12, encouraging people to explore their creativity by knitting things themselves – especially out of mohair. As a material, mohair is perfectly in tune with the growing desire for more intimate and tactile designs. Li believes that with a hint of surrealism and humour, the trends of the future will see people literally digging deep into themselves, and that they’ll use their own bodies as inspiration for new designs. She believes that mohair’s physical qualities lend themselves to imitating the fibrous texture of tissue, the fuzzy follicles of hair and the string-like strands of veins. Mohair SA showcased this marvellous material’s endless possibilities at Spin Expo in both New York and Shanghai, as well as at Design Indaba in Cape Town. Its stands included the work of young designers, craftspeople and knitting collectives, including Edelkoort’s creative teams, Collectif France Tricot in Paris and Studio Chevalier-Masson in Belgium. At Maison & Objet in Paris, Mohair SA also launched a homeware collection in 2011.

Mohair sa to exhibit at Maison & Objet Mohair South Africa will be exhibiting at Maison & Objet in Paris. Once again Lidewij Edelkoort has curated a selection of new and

Mohair sa announces the dates for the next international summit

ohair SA has announced that it will host the International Mohair Summit, an opportunity for key international roleplayers from the global mohair industry to gather and discuss matters of common interest, in Jansenville, Eastern Cape, South Africa from the 30th of October to the 2nd of November 2013. A collaboration between the mohair industry, the Ikwezi Municipality and various government departments, the summit will include a conference, a trade show, Angora goat competitions as well as a festival. The purpose of the Mohair Summit is to raise awareness of the fibre and the industry both locally and internationally, but to achieve this, there are various other goals involved, such as assisting with rural development to stimulate the production of mohair, as well as to attract emerging farmers to the industry. Another important goal for us is to address the current shortage of classers and shearers by highlighting the skills required to carry out these functions, as well as the shortage of stockmen and women by positioning this job as a career choice. The industry also aims to form closer working relationships with government and to create business opportunities in South Africa and abroad. The Inaugural International Mohair Summit took place in 2009 and was a great success. With just over a year left to prepare for the next one we are very much looking forward to hosting and participating in the upcoming summit. For further information, please visit the Summit website – www.mohairsummit.co.za.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 99

MOHAIR SA

inspiring products made from the mohair fibre.

accessories for the home. The Cape Town-based design studio Moonbasket has embraced mohair

“NOMADIC MOHAIR”

into its collection, experimenting

This year’s stand is inspired by the travelling tribes: Nomadism animates a timeworn style that is faded by age, crafted by hand and coloured by beautiful dyes. This roaming spirit is now reflected by our flexible and wireless existence today and a revived interest in living closer to the floor; a yearning for natural materials like straw, clay, wood and flax, but also animal fibres such as mohair collected from the noble Angora goat.

with dyeing techniques and blending

Edelkoort explains that, “Our relationship with the earth is becoming a source of inspiration and reflection for the youngest designers and decorators, giving shape to more archaic design and more tribal interiors. Loom-woven mohair rugs and mats will cover the floor, raised slightly by scattered cushions, thin mattresses and small ottomans. Heavy textiles will become tent canopies and looser weaves draped as billowing curtains. Ceramics and hammered metals will be used for rustic tabletop and small side-tables. Stripes will be studied for rugs and blankets to keep us warm on brisk nights. Filikli fringes and gaufrage velvets will both make a comeback to add a wilder dimension and textural depth to mohair’s lustrous shine.”

mohair velvet, a selection of these

This is the second consecutive year that South African manufacturers will be presenting their commerciallyavailable products at Maison & Objet: the Mohair Collection 2012 includes many items that are being unveiled for the first time. Karoo Looms has produced a selection of striped rugs to reflect the nomadic theme and cover the stand floor, added to by other mohair rugs from Sally Arnold and Elsa Barnard. Peta-Lee is a felting expert and has blended mohair with wool to create contemporary

show how intense mohair’s saturation

100 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

mohair with hemp and nylon. Other mohair products by Adele’s Mohair, Baby Mo, Cape Tweed, Coral Stephens, Cowgirl Blues, Heritage Weavers, Hinterveld and Mungo Designs will be on show. In a unique first, Edelkoort has delved into Schellens’ archives to choose ten gaufrage designs which are being rereleased by this famous Dutch textile house. Woven in sumptuous 100% newly-coloured patterned fabrics will be transformed into daybeds, ottomans and other nomadic furniture by the well-renowned Parisian retailer Caravane, which will sell these products after the fair. Another highlight at the stand is a selection of fine Filikli mohair rugs from the Milanese gallery Altai. Sourced in eastern Anatolia, these collector rugs are beautifully-dyed and include vintage pieces that are over eighty years old. Edelkoort has designed a colour forecast of deep hues for the nomadic interior: sandy neutrals, camel brown, silky grey and an important mustard orange. Bright accents such as mimosa, crimson and turquoise will can become, contrasted by matte jet black and dusted lapis blue. Humble, versatile and honest in terms of its durability and character, mohair is a sturdy and reliable fibre with admirable insulation and sustainable qualities. Edelkoort predicts that “a drier and coarser hand will become desirable, as mohair begins to leave its strictly-soft days behind. The evolving essence of mohair will enchant us for the seasons to come”.

MOHAIR SA

Mohair sa celebrates world yarn bombing day with oversized “m” The Port Elizabeth Waterfront was recently turned into a visual splendour when it was yarn bombed by an art installation in the shape of oversized ‘M’, dressed in brightly coloured neon knits. The brainchild of Mohair SA, the “M” was commissioned in celebration of International Yarn Bombing Day, recognised the world over by craft and knitting enthusiasts. Yarn bombing, also known as guerrilla knitting, urban knitting or graffiti knitting is a type of graffiti or street art that employs colourful displays of knitted or crocheted yarn or fibre. Anle Marais, Marketing Coordinator at Mohair SA says, “This is the first time that PE has been yarn bombed, and because we used African Expressions mohair yarn for the installation, it serves to put mohair on the map even further. We are very happy to be a part of this global initiative. The start of this movement is attributed to Magda Sayeg, considered to be the mother of yarn bombing from Houston USA, who first got the idea in 2005 when she covered her boutique door handle with a custom-made cozy. The movement took off and while other forms of graffiti can be expressive, decorative, territorial, socio-political commentary, advertising or vandalism, yarn bombing was initially almost exclusively about reclaiming and personalising sterile or cold public places. Today it enjoys attention with graffiti knitting and crocheting groups worldwide. While yarn installations can last for several years, they are considered non-permanent and, unlike other forms of graffiti, can be easily removed if necessary. The Mohair SA “M” was visible at various locations throughout PE for 3 weeks, with plans for community involvement for another yarn bomb in the near future.

Mohair fashion on display, designs by Kelly Esterhuyse

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 101

ARGENTINA

Argentina by Randolph Charles Davis, Federación Lanera Argentina

“You can have brilliant ideas, but if you can’t get them across, your ideas won’t get you anywhere”. I was thinking about how this quote, attributed to Lee Iacocca, can be applied to Argentine wool. Goatherds roam on ash covered pasture

e (meaning: us here in Argentina) know about the good quality of Argentine wool production. We also know that our wool growers are always watchful in maintaining homogeneous breeding lines, which result in uniform micron ranges in the long run. However, I ask myself if we have properly communicated all the virtues of our wool to you, our potential customers. With that question in mind, I will list a few of the most outstanding features that make our wool a valuable choice: Quality and tradition have been a constant with wool growing in Argentina for over 100 years. Already in the early days of the 20th century an important number of sheep farms performed careful breeding and wool-growing practices. In a time when objective measurements on wool had not yet been developed, these farms had their wool sorted during shearing time by professional classers. These good sheep-farming practices evolved and were formalized with the creation of PROLANA, the program for wool quality improvement, operative as from 1994. The program deals with all aspects concerning adequate preparation of wool and shearing techniques, in order to deliver a product properly prepared and packed, with no contamination. A very encouraging sign has been the recent renewal by Congress of the Wool Law, which highlights the national commitment with the wool industry.

Footprint shows ash from the Puyehue vocano

Growing areas comprise the whole territory of Argentina, from the southernmost province of Tierra del Fuego right across to the northwestern Jujuy. Due to the different climatic and land features within this expansion of over 3,000 miles, the wool produced includes from the finest Merinos in Patagonia to the gradually broader types found north-wise. The finer grades excel because of their whiteness and soft touch, which is a plus with fine worsteds and other luxury goods. The broader grades cover an ample specter of products, from hosiery to knitwear, upholstery, carpets, rugs and non-woven goods. Efficient and modern wool processing facilities are located within the largest wool growing region, Patagonia, where almost 70 percent of the wool is produced. More than 80 percent of the wool grown in Argentina is exported with some industrial process: 78 percent tops, noils and by-products, and 5 percent scoured. Furthermore, the wool produced within this region –south of 42nd parallel south– is FMD free without vaccination, as stipulated by O.I.E.

Fine merino sheep in Patagonia

The weather has not been kind with our wool growers in the last five years, with an extended drought in vast areas of Patagonia, and the eruption of the volcanoes Chaiten in 2008 and Puyehue in 2011. However, some recent and timely rainfalls make us hopeful that conditions will improve and, should the weather fall again into a more normal pattern, the current year will end with a more positive outlook.

102 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

ARGENTINA

Lanera Austral greasy wool to yarn from Argentina

Left to right: Javier Gnarra, Juan Pablo Lefebvre, Gaston Lefebvre

Lanera Austral’s processing plant occupies some 20,000 square metres on 10 hectares of farmland in the eastern side of Trelew in Argentina. ‘We run a fully integrated operation. Our wool top plant runs as one complete process, from the processing of greasy wool to the manufacture of tops’, says Juan Pablo Lefebvre, Vice President of Lanera Austral. ‘We are focused on good quality and a fair price rather than on large quantities’.

anera Austral was a pioneer in the Argentine wool industry and in 1958 it became the first company to construct an industrial processing plant, in Chubut, now a region dedicated to top production in Argentina. Today this family run company is a leading exporter of Argentine scoured wool and wool tops. It specialises in a range from 18.0 to 30.0 microns with a total output of 3.000 tons clean wool tops. 85% of their exports are tops and 15% scoured wool, as well as wool noils and wool wastes. ‘We mostly use Argentine wool types and specialise in processing wools grown in Patagonian Zone that includes types known as Chubut, Santa Cruz and Rio Gallegos’, says Mr Lefebvre. Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 103

ARGENTINA

the range of 16 48 cones’. The plant facility includes a warehouse for testing and sorting of greasy wool. The company also has a well equipped testing laboratory for raw wool and tops and runs a rigid quality

Wool top from Lanera Austral

‘We also export raw white yarn in combs, and focus on supplying spinners that wish to complement their own yarn production with our wool yarn in 19.5 - 29.5 microns in

control system. Exports are destined for markets in China, Europe, South Africa, Turkey, Japan, Korea and Mexico.

‘Our company policy is based on customer service and the development of serious and long lasting commercial relationships. We offer a uniform quality product and customized service. ‘We welcome enquiries from companies around the world that are looking for a reliable supplier of scoured wool and wool tops from Argentina. We are interested in building long term relationships with buyers’, concludes Mr Lefebvre. For more information about products available from Lanera Austral in Argentina - Tel: 54-11-4328-2000 Fax: 54-11-4328-4848 Email: infolanera@lanera-austral.com www.lanera-austral.com

Pelama Chubut - selling speciality fibre on a strong luxury fibre market The disruption to Argentinean wool supply caused by the ongoing volcanic ash contamination in the Chubut area where most of Argentine wool is grown, will reduce the availability of the wool clip according to Carlos Leers. Customers will recognise the important of dealing with a reliable and experienced supplier of wool and wool top in the future.

elama Chubut, entirely owned by the Leers family, is now into its 3rd generation.

Carlos Leers and his sons Federico & Nicolas Leers are all involved in the management of the company. ‘When you deal with Pelama Chubut you talk directly to the company owners. Decisions are made quickly and often with one effortless telephone call’, says Carlos Leers. ‘We have 60 years experience in the industry. We export around 70/80% of all speciality fibres produced in Argentina and offer permanent stock Pelama Chubut processing plant in Chubut 104 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

in major consumption centres in

ARGENTINA

of the total availability. ‘During the last few years we have focused our goals on Merino wools. We comb merino wools from 17 to 22 microns’, says Mr Leers. ‘The quality of our products is the result of the ongoing enhancement of each single production stage’.

Europe and Asia. We offer mohair, llama, guanaco, vicuña, and angora rabbit hair and export greasy wool, scoured merino wool, mohair tops, and wool tops’. Pelama Chubut is well known as a processor and exporter of speciality fibres from Argentina but a decision made some fifteen years ago to diversify into sheep wool has seen it develop into a leading exporter of Argentinean wool and wool top as well. ‘Today we process around 3 to 4 million kilograms of wool each year and we occupy a leading position with respect to such types as coarse carpet grade wools were account for about 40% of Argentinian exports’, says Federico Leers. Pelama Chubut is also the largest supplier of Luster Wools from Argentina, exporting about 40%

With the demand for wool being up and down over the last couple of years the demand for speciality fibre from manufacturers of luxury goods has not been affected. ‘The demand for such fibres as vicuña and guanaco has been strong’, says Federico Leers. ‘We are the only company in the world offering vicuña & guanaco tops, both in brown and light fawn shades’ says Mr Leers. The commercial value of these special fibres may be up to 100 times as high as the value of regular sheep wool. In recent years environmental issues have become important to consumers

Federico Leers shows vicuña 12.5 micron top exclusive to Pelama Chubut

and retailers. The plant operates affluent processing. ‘Today, our Trelew-based plant operates as a fully certified organic plant’. Pelama Chubut can be contacted by email at: pelama@pelamachubut.com T: 54 11 4733 9200 F: 54 11 4733 9206 www.pelamachubut.com

Are you looking for a reliable supplier of speciality fibres and wool top from Argentina look no further

PELAMA CHUBUT S.A.

Wool • Mohair • Speciality Fibres • Greasy • Scoured • Tops Contact us: Tel.: (00-54-11) 4733-9200 (Fax.: 00-54-11) 4733-9206 pelama@pelamachubut.com Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 105

WOOL LOGISTICS

Secure wool logistics ‘Your wool is safe with us’, says Mr Starkus Managing Director at KES DISTRI in Bremen Germany. ‘We can make this guarantee because wool lots delivered to the KES DISTRI warehouse from the client remain under the ownership of the client and will not be delivered and released to the purchaser until all contractual obligations are satisfied’.

or more than 30 years KES DISTRI has specialised in the transportation of greasy wool, scoured wool and wooltops and other natural fibres. This logistics company operates a large transport fleet, modern trans-shipment facility and warehouse, and a reliable, individual customer service. ‘Our experienced team can take control of all your logistical

Harry Starkus

Thomas Fuhrmann viewing KES DISTRI company website that allows importers to monitor the status of their lots and view them as they are transported. Buyers can also view products available for sale on this live feed. 106 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

needs, avoiding long delays and additional costs for storage at custom warehousing. We work very closely with our customers at all stages of the process. And as the wool is not delivered to the buyer until we have clear instruction from the owner the system is safe and straightforward,’ says Mr Starkus. KES DISTRI website is user friendly and clients can track their wool lots as they make their way from port of origin to destination. ‘Our open website allows registered customers to see exactly where their consignment is, at any given time. The system is secure and transparent. This ensures that mistakes and misunderstandings can be avoided, saving time and money. Customers can view the

WOOL LOGISTICS

current status of their lots and even see them being moved or transported’. KES DISTRI provides transportation and other logistic services for fibre importers from South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, China and South America and many other countries within Eastern and Western Europe. ‘When an exporter entrusts us with their wool we manage sea transportation, customs clearance, delivery to our warehouse, secure storage, wool testing by an accredited wool testing house, and delivery of the wool lot to its final destination’, says Mr Starkus. KES DISTRI is an accredited agent of Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE) and can perform core tests at its warehouse facility. Certificates are delivered directly to nominated parties. KES DISTRI is also GOTS certified for storage and processing of organic products. The company also offers extended insurance if required. As well as safe secure transportation services KES DISTRI is able to provide on the spot selling to customers. Buyers in Europe can order online for quick delivery. ‘This allows importers to use our storage facility as a retail floor. Of course, the owner can track these sales via our secure website as well’, says Mr Starkus.

Bremen - the best port of call to import fibre into Europe This is according to Thomas Fuhrmann Director at KES DISTRI. ‘The laws for importing greasy fibre in to Europe are very complicated due to stringent health regulations and KES DISTRI can assist in clearing cargo as soon as it arrives in to Bremen. It is much easier to import wool in to Europe via Bremen. Customs here are used to wool being imported and with our assistance all custom and duty tax is made easy, as we do it every day’. This is in contrast to the situation where wool is imported into such other European ports where customs officials are not so familiar with dealing with natural fibres. European import and customs regulations regarding the import of raw fibre are complicated, vary from country to country and changes all the time. ‘As a logistics company we have a team dedicated to staying up to date regarding these regulations. In the long run it is cheaper and less problematic to import wool via Bremen than any other port in Europe’, says Mr Fuhrmann. For more information on the logistic services available from KES DISTRI please contact Harry Starkus at harry. starkus@kes-bremen.de Tel. + 49 421 69 077 701. Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 107

GERMANY

Best in German wool Friedrich Sturm offers wools from Schleswig-Holstein, Germany’s West, Centre and Eastern regions. Schleswig-Holstein is a particularly famous wool growing region in Germany just outside Hamburg. In recent years this company has become one of Germany’s largest and most efficient collectors and exporters of wool and animal by-products. Victor Chesky, spoke with John Semmelhaak, Manager at Friedrich Sturm, in Hamburg Germany. So, where to next for this company? ‘We are not one of the biggest exporters, but we are known for our reliability and consistency’, says Mr Semmelhaak. ‘We have an excellent knowledge in German wools and source the right wool for the right use for our customers. Our goal is to continue to service our existing clients and build relationships with new clients in China and around the world’.

It includes a 6m long, 1.5m wide moving conveyor belt. The wool is emptied onto the moving belt where it is examined for foreign objects such as manure, straw, vegetable matter and other fibres. After sorting the wool continues along the conveyor belt until it drops into the bale compressor where it is pressed and packed in approx. 400 kg bales.

‘German wool has been very consistent in recent years, particularly regarding characteristics,low VM, length and colour. It is an excellent choice for scourers and spinners who predominantly buy European wools’. Friedrich Sturm offers a variety of wool types including Eider fleece wool for the carpet industry. It is considered an excellent wool in the coarser types, around 35-36 micron due to the North Sea climate. The company also sources German Merino wool which is bred in the east and south of Germany. It is a finer wool with a fineness of 28-30 microns. Wools Offered by Friedrich Strum ‘We have recently set up a new sorting process. This has streamlined the process for greater speed and efficiency’.

MICRON

W.YIELD %

AVG. LENGTH

Eider

34 / 36 my

65/70

8 - 12 cm

Merino I

28 / 30 my

58/62

5 - 9 cm

Merino II

30 / 32 my

58/62

5 - 9 cm

Geest

35 / 37 my

55/60

8 - 12 cm

Schwarzkopf

30 / 32 my

60/62

7 - 9 cm

Brown

34 / 36 my

60/62

8 - 9 cm

Schnucken

38 / 42 my

62/68

8 - 15 cm

TYPE

108 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

John Semmelhaak (at right) - examining wool at one of two Friedrich Sturm warehouses

Wool is collected almost exclusively from farmers and shearers. There is no mixing or blending with other wools of other origins. This specification assurance gives

GERMANY

Friedrich Sturm a competitive advantage over other exporters. ‘Today, when a customer opens a container he wants to be reassured that what is inside is exactly what he ordered. All our wools are tested, offering clients the highest level of security regarding the product and its consistency. Every lot is sorted to client specification and it is tested by Wool Testing Authority Europe’.

Exporting the best of German greasy wool since 1962

And where do you see Friedrich Sturm’s business opportunities taking you in the future? ‘We place great emphasis on our relationship with other wool collecting companies. Our business strategy is effective communication. Other wool supply companies in Europe can take advantage of our extensive contact list of buyers around the world, as well as our efficient internal infrastructure to sort, bale and export wool. We can also assist local suppliers to establish good standards in wool classification, packing and shipping.

Wool from Schleswig-Holstein in Germany - offering low VM, and good length and colour.

‘We see our company as a hub to assist both suppliers and overseas buyers to gain access to necessary supply and infrastructure. Many smaller suppliers do not yet have sufficient knowledge, financial strength and administrative skills to reach wool buyers beyond their borders. And we can help both buyers and suppliers to contact each other’. ‘Buying opportunities have been increasing for us and we are always interested in establishing new relationships. Their wool need not be in large quantities only, we are interested in any volume’, says Mr Semmelhaak. For more information about Friedrich Sturm please contact John Semmelhaak at sturm@fsturm.com or jrs@frsturm.comwww.frsturm.com

Friedrich Sturm GmbH & Co KG has exported German greasy wool (32 – 34 microns) to world markets for more than 40 years. We select wool directly from farms – no mixing, no blending. Our wool is sorted and tested by WTAE. We guarantee our clients that their requirements will be fully met in terms of quality, delivery, and documentation.

Bornkamp 2, 25364 Osterhorn Tel. +49-4127-97980 • Fax +49-4127-979899 e-mail: jrs@frsturm.com or sturm@frsturm.com web: www.frsturm.com

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 109

GERMANY

Wool from different origins offered by Global Wool Global Wool Team from left to right: Christoph Behrens, Otto Kettenburg, Jochen Bremer, Fabian Knappik

Global Wool has expanded its business to provide one of the most comprehensive product ranges in Europe. It imports wool and wool related products from 25 countries and sells its products to over 30 countries.

110 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

GERMANY

Global Wool provides a wide range of products including some 180 types from 25 different origins. ‘We have expanded our staff to ensure that we are always able to provide the quality of service that our customers should be able to expect’, says Otto Kettenburg of Global Wool in Bremen, Germany. ‘We have continued to expand with a greater product range and provide our customers with quick and flexible delivery’. ‘We are able to deliver to any destination within Europe usually in a couple of days. Our assortment includes wooltops, open tops / broken tops, carbonized wool, carbonized noils, scoured wool, greasy wool, noils, wool waste, spinning waste, synthetic waste, and selected specialty

fibres. Our main warehouse is located in Bremen, an historic trading spot for wool’, says Christoph Behrens who joined the team in 2009. Stock is also available from warehouses in Prato and Verviers. The team at Global Wool includes Otto Kettenburg, Jochen Bremer, Christoph Behrens and Fabian Knappik. ‘We are a forward looking company, with a vibrant and experienced team and a commitment to the industry. We have an eye to the future, and with this in mind Fabian Knappik has recently joined us as an apprentice. We believe that to be prepared for the challenges that lie ahead for our industry, and to keep the profession of the wool merchant alive, we would do our part to ensure that the next generation

could acquire the knowledge and love of wool that is integral to us’, says Jochen Bremer. All partners at Global Wool have great experience working with wool and they know their customers’ needs. Where some companies cannot hold large stocks due to financial constraints Global Wool does. ‘We can deliver one bale or a full truck and pride ourselves on delivering right the first time’. A prompt supply is facilitated by good stock and on forward delivery terms from origin. This enables a high level of flexibility to the customer, and includes a service where customers can place orders that may combine various qualities in a single shipment. For more information please contact Global Wool at info@global-wool.de Phone +49 4269 104478

E-TEC Non-chlorinated Anti-Shrink Wool Tops from BWHK

WHK has recently introduced a totally new product - E-TEC Non-chlorinated Anti-Shrink Wool Tops. This product is IMO/ GOTS Certified and is exclusive to BWHK. ‘It has a softer touch compared with conventional treatments and is odour free. This treatment also results in a brilliant white, superior colour compared with conventional treatments and superior nepp characteristics. It is also Anti-Shrink to TM31 Standards’, says Jens Behrmann Director at Bremer Wollhandelskontor GmbH (BWHK). This well known German based company operates a plant processing

Jens Behrmann

superwash, non chlorinated, shrink proof wool specialising in finer micron tops. So, what do customers value most in their relationship

with suppliers today? According to Mr Behrmann the answer lies in a number of factors. Always using the best raw material is one, traceability Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 111

GERMANY

of fibre from farm to yarn, and strong environmental credentials are others. The fact that BWHK is located in Germany in the heart of Europe allows the company to deliver promptly to customers within Europe.

a first class service of high quality

‘We have extensive knowledge in manufacturing and treating tops’, says Mr Behrmann. ‘We are known for quality in supplying finer types from 23 microns and finer. These types of tops are not widely available in Europe anymore’.

Chlorinated Basolan treatments.

BWHK operates an organic certified wool-chain from the harvesting of the raw materials, and focuses on environmental and socially responsible manufacturing, right up to labelling. It provides a credible organic assurance to both the retailer and end consumer. BWHK sources and selects raw material using its long experience in determining what is best to

products in classic treatments such as Superwash,”Sim-TEC”, Soft-Lustre and Basolan and the more recently it has added innovative NonChlorinated Shrinkproofing and Non-

‘European clients receive a just-intime stock service on a wide selection of wool tops from our warehouse in buy to achieve the best quality product. ‘Where other processors stick to the standard specifications when processing tops, we at BWHK constantly try to achieve the highest standards – thinking outside the square, and always prepared to try new techniques’. BWHK regularly imports wool and is a stockholder of wool tops and noils from major wool regions including Australia, South America and China. The company provide

Bremen’, says Mr Behrmann. Bremen is centrally located and is the home of a major deep-sea port. It also boasts an excellent transport and logistical network throughout Europe. ‘This enables us to deliver wool to our customers throughout most parts of Europe within 2-3 days from the date of goods being ordered’. For more information about the products and services offered by Bremer Wollhandelskontor GmbH please email: info@brewoko.de

E-TEC Non-chlorinated Anti-Shrink Wool Tops being manufactured at BWHK plant 112 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

CANADA

Canadian Wool - lends itself to a wide range of applications ‘Much of our wool clip was forward sold last season’, says Eric Bjergso, General Manager at Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers Ltd (CCWG). Our main market this year has been China, USA, India and Uruguay as well as a domestic market here in Canada. Canadian wool offers excellent choices for blending with other wools, or for use in its own right, for a wide range of products’.

CWG grades and markets its wool according to accepted international wool industry practices and standards. All wool types are objectively measured after grading. ‘We believe that this gives us an essential edge. Accurate measuring for each wool lot offered for sale is appreciated by our customers. They know they are receiving a well prepared and better quality graded wool that results in a higher market value for their product’. CCWG is a national co-operative that has been serving the Canadian wool industry since 1918. It collects, grades, measures and markets the wool on behalf of farmers. It grades and markets close to 3 million pounds of raw wool each year, in each of the three main classes of fine, medium and coarse. Canadian wool ranges from 22 – 35 microns with the

bulk of production being between 2931 microns. The sheep and wool industry in Canada began almost as early as agriculture. The first sheep were brought from France in about 1650 to provide food and clothing. Since that time, sheep have followed settlement to all regions of agricultural Canada and have played an important part in the economy of the country. Canada is well adapted to sheep and wool production. Wool has played an important role in clothing both civilian and military populations, contributing not only to home industries but also to a substantial commercial textile industry. CCWG has been busy visiting new and established customers from Uruguay to China. It has also made enhancements to its Wool

Eric Bjergso, General Manager at Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers Ltd (CCWG)

Preparation Incentive Rebate (WPIR) program. ‘We have developed trusting relationships with long established customers in these markets for a wide range of graded Canadian wool types. The reputation of graded Canadian wool is very good because we have strived to make consistent quality deliveries on an ongoing basis’.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 113

GEORGIA

Georgian wool reaching beyond its European borders Mr Beka Gonashvili head of Sheep Breeders Association in Georgia

The increase in wool prices worldwide will inevitably make buyers explore alternative wool supplies. Wool from Georgia is such an option, offering an opportunity for buyers to use this wool as a viable alternative in its own right or to blend with other wools.

oday Georgia is rapidly developing its wool export market, reaching out beyond its European borders. It now produces around 700 tonne every year. While Georgia does not have wool processing facilities it exports all its wool in greasy form. Situated at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, Georgia has a unique and

114 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

ancient cultural heritage. It is famed for its traditions of hospitality and cuisine. It is a very mountainous country with diverse climate conditions and is an ex-Soviet Republic that runs along the Great Caucasian Range. Animal husbandry, mainly the keeping of cattle, pigs, and sheep, accounts for about 25% of Georgiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s agricultural output.

GEORGIA

The change to better farming practices, in particular in sheep and wool is spearheaded by the Sheep Breeders Association in Georgia. Together with the Georgian government it is assisting and educating Georgian sheep growers to become more productive and more quality driven. Mr Beka Gonashvili who heads the Sheep Breeders Association in Georgia says the Association supports farmers in seeking export partners for their wool and seeks to promote knowledge about Georgian wools. It was established by farmers and sheep owners under the protection of Ministry of Agriculture of Georgia. ‘Our goal is to provide all the help necessary for sheep owners in Georgia to communication with government structures and potential buyers of their products. Our wool has an average fibre length of 110160 MMAverage fibre fineness 31-32

microns yield 75% Moisture 15-17% Grease content 3-5 % Burr content 1.3% approx., and is white in colour’.

he sheep are shorn twice a year and lambs once each year. Shearing occurs in spring

and summer (August) and lambs in summer only (July). Wool shorn in summer is a better quality and is cleaner. ‘Our sheep are grown in a 100% eco-friendly environment.

They feed on our natural grasses all year around. Our ewes give birth at the end of January - February, in the Eastern part of the country where the winter is warm and the grass is good. ‘Sheep and wool farming is now very popular in Georgia and we are keen to establish contact with buyers around the world’, says Mr Gonashvili. Mr Gonashvili can be contacted at beka@me.com

Georgian Wool 100% natural • Average fibre length of 110-160 MMAverage • Fibre fineness 31-32 microns • Yield 75% • Moisture 15-17% • Grease content 3-5 % • Burr content 1.3% approx • White in colour

Georgian Livestock Export LLC 15th, 3-rd Kheivani St. Tbilisi, Georgia E-mail: BEKA@me.com Tel: +995 599 56 71 31; +995 558 07 77 66 General Director - BEKA GONASHVILI

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 115

HUNGARY

Hungarian wool takes centre stage Hungary is becoming an increasingly attractive trading partner. It has a reliable workforce, sound infrastructure, is centrally located in the heart of Europe, and labour costs are still relatively low.

ungary is historically well

Hungarowool is a well established

known as a wool growing

Hungarian wool export company that

country. Today wool is

collects wool from these farms and

grown by local farmers running

sorts to individual client specification

merino flocks, usually small herds of

in its two warehouses. It is an

between 600 – 1000 head. There are

established broker and exporter of

some larger farms that operate with

100% Hungarian merino wool.

some 6,000 head. These sheep are

‘We sell pure Hungarian merino wool

kept in sheds for some three months

in the 23 – 24.5micron range. The vm

each year, due to the harsh winters in

is 1.5 to 2.5% because we keep the

Hungary. This protects the quality of

sheep inside for 3 months of the year.

the wool from weather damage but

Our wool is good for top making’,

quality Hungarian greasy merino

does not affect the colour which is off

says János Vass, company director at

wool for export in 24 ton container

white.

Hungarowool. Hungarowool packs

lots. Each bale is packed in 350 –

116 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

János Vass with recently selected wool delivered to Hungarowool warehouse from neighbouring farms

HUNGARY

Merino Mini forges a baby market for wool

brand new market for wool is being explored by The Woolmark Company through its Mothers and Babies program. The Merino Mini Collection of new products were showcased at the Italian children’s apparel trade show Pitti Immagine Bimbo, alongside more than 500 brands in Florence. The special program has been created by The Woolmark Company to highlight the many natural benefits of wool to this lucrative segment of the market. Local farmer with his Merino flock outside Kiskunfelegyhaza

400 kg bales in jute or synthetic

that it could be used by spinners at

packaging.

a maximum speed with maximum

The company was established in 1997

breakage / downtime.

and Mr János Vass, has been working

Hungarowool’s warehouses are in

in the local wool industry for over 30

the same locality as the farms where

years.

the raw wool is sourced, sorted and

‘Like many of the people we employ

packed for export. Wool export is

today I started in the wool sorting

a small industry in Hungary with

rooms. Some of our people have

around 1 – 1.2 million sheep, says Mr

15 – 20 years experience and we are

Vass. ‘We know the farmers and we

training younger people too. We

know the sheep’.

don’t want to lose the expertise we have built up over time so training is very important to us’.

‘We also have good relationships with wool producers in neighbouring countries such as Romania and we

‘We export 100% Hungarian fleece’,

are able to sell their wool on request’,

says Mr Vass. ‘Over the years the

says Mr Vass.

quality of our Hungarian merino has been improved by the introduction of Australian merino. Our company guarantees its product and we provide testing certificates from Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE)’. Past testing of Hungarian wool by New Zealand Wool Testing Authority

Hungarowool office is situated in the

The Merino Mini collection includes innovative wool jersey and knitted pieces and gained the appreciation of brands, retailers, buyers, manufacturers and media specialising in children’s wear. One product example is Ewenique, an Australian brand that produces baby sleep wear and wraps in Australian Merino wool. Over the years, Ewenique has demonstrated an ongoing commitment to ensure that the entirety of their product offering is made out of 100 per cent Australian Merino wool. Ewenique sources luxuriously soft fabrics from Woolmark licensee Charles Parsons and uses a local maker in New South Wales to produce its garments. Source: The Woolmark Company

picturesque Hungarian countryside surrounded by farms less than two hours drive from the capital city of Budapest. ‘We invite interested buyers to visit us in Kiskunfelegyhaza to view our pure Hungarian merino wool’.

(NZWTA) has shown the staple

For more information about

strength at 35 N/KT. This result

Hungarian Merino Wool please

demonstrated that there was no

contact János Vass at

weak positioning along the fibre and

hungarowool@freemail.hu Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 117

RUSSIA

Russian wool supplier offers wool top More and more companies in Europe are appreciating Russian wool, according to Sergey Puzanov Director of WoolSlav. ‘More Russian wool is being purchased by European, Indian and Chinese wool buyers. Some parts of Russia produce excellent quality merino. It is competitively priced and is tested by international testing houses’.

lavyane is the biggest exporter of Russian wool and purchases up to 2,000 tons of greasy wool and up to 300 tons of feather and down material annually.

Sergey Puzanov Slavyane Wool Managing Director

Slavyane supplies merino wool, semi-fine wool, semi coarse wool, wool tow, wool clip (hide-shorn), and scoured wool. The company recently expanded its product list and now offers wool top through its offices in Mumbai, Biella and Beijing. ‘With the wool processing industry under pressure from higher wool prices and a lack of demand, accessing and using an alternative wool supply has become more important’, says Mr Puzanov. ‘Our customers appreciate our reliable service and the quality of wool and wool top that we supply’. ‘We have many wool processing customers that are now quite familiar with Russian merino wool’, says Mr Puzanov who lives and works in Beijing. ‘Our offices can facilitate quick and easy communication. We have been supplying wool processors in Europe, India and

118 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

other countries around the world with Russian wool for many years and we are very familiar with their requirements’. Slavyane operates a number of strategically located wool collection points in Stravropol to which wool is delivered direct from farms and sorted by experienced staff. Particular attention is paid to sorting wool, based on client requirement, and the employment of the best packing materials. ‘The people that work for us are industry professionals who have been involved in wool for the greater part of their working lives. Because of this we are able to guarantee quality and answer customer demand quickly and professionally. We source the right wool for each client’s particular purpose and this has always been the focus of our business.’ Slavyane also works closely with partner companies in New Zealand and Australia and can supply wool companies with wool of most origins. The company also has direct links with an expanding Russian textile industry and can easily facilitate introductions of foreign companies that are interested in joint ventures in Russia. ‘Our competitive prices and our good understanding of the Russian market make us an ideal business partner for companies interested in buying wool of all origins, and for companies that are interested in expanding into Russia’, concludes Mr Puzanov. For more information please visit website www.woolslav.ru or contact Sergey Puzanov by Email: woolslav@mail.ru or Inna Varivonchik via Losana 10, Biella 13900 Italy Tel: +86-18618141975, +86-18618491171, +86-10-80461774. E-mail: innava@bk.ru skype: innavarivonchik

BELGIUM

Kalitek focusing on the bedding market The consumer is becoming more health conscious and bedding manufacturers around the world are keen to meet this ever growing market by using more and more wool in products such as duvets, quilts and mattresses.

Authority Europe (WTAE) to test its wool and certificates are available on client request.

and this includes an expectation

alitek of Belgium has refined its niche market to achieve a fibre suitable for this purpose. ‘Our wool is in particular demand with manufacturers that make quilts and home textile products. French and Belgium wool are particularly well known and are preferred by these

Bulky wool supplied by Kalitek to major manufacturers of bedding products around the world

‘When purchasing bedding products the buying public expects quality

manufacturers’, says Mr de Bosscher, Managing Director at Kalitek.

that it has been manufactured using

Selected wools are processed to client specification at Kalitek processing facility in Slovakia.

methods’, says Mr de Bosscher. ‘Our

It uses a chlorine free processing method and is a member of the Fine Wool Grade Club in Japan. The Japanese and Korean bedding industry requires testing for durability, ph control, and bulk testing according to QTEC standards. The company use Wool Testing

environmentally friendly processing Dylan® Wool processing methods specifically address market demand for washable bedding products that retain their look, shape and volume after frequent laundering’. Kalitek is a partner company with Devan-PPT/ Dylan® laboratories in the UK, an innovative pioneer in the shrink resist processing of wool products, and a group of European quality wool merchants, wool processors, and a select group of Japanese futon manufacturers. ‘We have introduced Dylan® ECOSOFT, a revolutionary technology for washable eco-friendly wool bedding materials, including futons, duvets and quilts’. This method was developed by Devan-PPT/ Dylan® laboratories in the UK. This technology is chlorine-free, thus avoiding unnecessary damage to the environment which is inherent to classical processes for wool shrinkresistance. Dylan® ECO-SOFT wool processing specifically addresses market demand for washable bedding products that retain their looks, shape and volume after frequent laundering. The entire “green” process takes place under carefully controlled conditions

120 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

BELGIUM

utilising ultra modern equipment. The new technology has been further enhanced by development and application of a specially engineered, high performance polymer. ‘Now bedding products made out of Dylan® ECO-SOFT wool is fast becoming the material of choice for health conscious customers, by offering exceptional comfort, durability, resilience and washability’, says Mr de Bosscher. ‘This technology delivers wool for bedding that is chlorine-free and environmental friendly; comfortable, voluminous and resilient; locks the wool inside the duvet/quilt without “creeping” or “sticking out”; is durable to repeated washing; and promotes restful and beneficial sleep’.

concept. It is a product that Kalitek is proud to be involved with.

The unique combination of natural fibres and ecological technology distinguishes Dylan® ECO-SOFT from any other commercially available

Kalitek also supplies greasy, scoured and washable wool in the 22 – 38 micron range. ‘Our ability to collect greasy wool from all over Europe

Daniel De Bosscher (left) and Ivan Rišica at Kalitek office

and to sort it to specific client specification is one of our major strengths’, says Mr de Bosscher. For more information please contact Daniel de Bosscher at daniel@kalitek.be

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 121

TURKEY

Akel Tekstil - exporting scoured wool to international markets Turkey is Europe’s fastest growing economy and is gaining ground in the international arena of wool and textile production and exports. AKEL is a leading Turkish exporter of greasy and scoured wool. Originally processing solely for the domestic market the company now exports to many markets in Eastern and Western Europe, Central Asia and the USA.

Left to right: Baris Gelenbe and Omer Ozden

122 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

‘We export greasy wool, scoured wool and tops to our customers worldwide. We offer good quality products at competitive prices,’ says Mr Gelenbe Shareholder and Director at AKEL TEKSTIL. ‘Our proximity to Europe is also a major advantage. We can offer a very quick delivery timetable’.

Last year AKEL moved to new premises with larger warehousing facilities. It also installed a new scouring line to keep up with demand. The company has a scouring capacity of 25 metric tons per day. The scouring line now has 8, 2 metre wide pools and dust machines. The

TURKEY

SGS Turkey - Hi-tech Textile Testing Laboratory in Istanbul

new SGS Textile Testing Laboratory in Istanbul, Turkey, offers the latest in cutting edge technologies for the development and innovation of services in testing, inspection, verification and certification.

AKEL scouring line

result is a better quality output. AKEL can supply 2000MT scoured wool & 5000MT greasy wool per annum. ‘Our scouring plant is important to our business. It gives us the flexibility we need to process our own wool. It also provides us with better control over the quality during the scouring process. This ensures that we can supply to the exact specifications that our customers require from us. It also gives us a pricing advantage,’ says Chairman Mr Ozden. ‘We process all types of wool between 20 - 40 microns from Turkey, Romania and England. But we can process any type of European wool required by our customers.’ The company also scour on a commission basis and is looking to extend this side of its business with customers in Eastern and Western Europe and in Asia. It has a well trained staff that can handle all required documents regarding testing, exports, customs and transportation. ‘While price has been a main factor in determining purchasing choices in scoured wool in recent years, quality is gaining greater importance. We are the only Turkish company to supply 20.2 micron scoured wool, approved by an accredited wool testing house report. We produce high quality scoured wool and compete in both quality and price with the best processors around the world’, says Omer Ozden. AKEL exports through agents in individual countries as well as direct to clients. It stores substantial stock at its warehouse in Usak, in the central Anatolia region of Turkey, and can supply both scoured and greasy wool quickly and efficiently. It can also supply greasy wool direct from Romania where it has sourcing and storage facilities. Buyers and Sellers can contact Mr.Baris Gelenbe www.akelwool.com Scouring Plant Tel/Fax: +90 276 266 88 55 info@akelwool.com/akeltextile@yahoo.com Istanbul Office Tel: +90 216 339 66 85 pbx Fax: +90 216 327 67 29

SGS Turkey Business Manager Mehmet Cem Ozen, said “We tried to expand our horizons and with the expansion of our service capacity we have achieved a huge leap forward. Now it is time for us to provide better and quicker service to our customers.” The expansion of the existing capabilities of the SGS laboratory will see textile testing undertaken with the latest and most up to date Gas Chromatographs and Liquid Chromatographs, allowing SGS Turkey to provide world class services with greater capacity. As one of the relatively few independent textile laboratories, accredited by CPSC, DAkkS and UKAS to ISO 17025, SGS Turkey has become a symbol of reliability. The new facility offers a full spectrum of consumer testing services including physical and chemical tests performed according to international standards such as ISO, BS, DIN, AATCC and ASTM. As one of the leading clothing exporters globally, Turkey has long been an attractive territory for exporting companies who are seeking global market access. With its close proximity to both Europe and Asia, it forms the crossroads of these two great continental markets. Turkey’s importance to the European market is such that in 2010, it was second only to China as the largest importer into the EU. With stable growth and favourable geographical positioning, Turkey’s Ministry of the Economy and the Turkish Exporters Assembly agreed a plan, known as the Turkish Exports Strategy for 2023, which aims to make Istanbul an international fashion, fair and trade centre.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 123

TURKEY

Mafilo - opens doors between East and West World textile production has been shifting from West to East in recent years and Turkey has been establishing itself as a bridge between the two.

‘We pride ourselves on transparency and accuracy with all our clients. We work directly with wool exporters and top manufacturers so that our customers know the origin of the wool we supply to them each and every time. We are able to provide our clients with information about the best prices and the best qualities of wool from any country.’

ecent government incentives for textile production is assisting Turkish companies to secure an increasingly strong position in world textile supply. Mafilo Tekstil has been running its business out of Istanbul for over 12 years. ‘I am the third generation in my family to be involved in the textile business’, says Mert Atakoglu. ‘In the past Australia was known as the main wool supplying country. We specifically established Mafilo Tekstil to provide a competitive alternative that includes wools from a variety of origins such as Uruguay, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand, as well as from Australia. We provide quality service, fast shipment, and competitive prices’, says Mr Atakoglu. The company supplies all varieties of mohair, silk, cashmere, alpaca, and angora for all textile sectors in Turkey. As well as importing wool and other speciality fibers into Turkey.

124 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

textile industry. The company is geographically positioned on the doorstep of Europe, and with a well serviced port facility it can arrange for quick deliveries all over the world.

Mert Atakoglu of Mafilo Tekstil

Mafilo Tekstil also exports local and imported wools to markets beyond Europe, including China, India And Iran. Mafilo Tekstil brings with it decades of experience in the wool and

‘We have established a strong presence in the international arena and can supply major clients with all types of wool and speciality fibres for worsted weaving yarn, flat knitting yarn, fancy yarn, hand knitting yarn spinners, open end/ring and semiworsted and woolen carpet yarn spinners,’ says Mr Atakoglu. Mr Atakoglu believes that offering top quality service, fast shipment, competitive prices and a variety of products will position Mafilo Tekstil as an ideal partner for companies in Turkey and around the world.

Italy New Executive for Italian Wool Trade Association

ssociazione Nazionale Del Commercio Laniero held its annual general meeting in Biella in April and elected a new president and committee. Piercarlo Zedda who held the position of president for four years has been replaced by Mario Ferrarone. The vice president is Micaela Fiorina. The executive committee includes Truscelli Francesco, Nigel Thompson, Claudio Lacchio, Pierluigi Mazzia, Mauro De Lorenzi and Luciano Gandini. Guido De Luca is the new financial controller and Wilma Rosso is secretary and administrative officer. The new executive committee will hold office for two years. Today Associazione Nazionale Del Commercio Laniero has 35 members and is one of the biggest wool trade organisations in Western Europe. Source: Associazione Nazionale Del Commercio Laniero Left to right: Outgoing President Piercarlo Zedda, Vice President Micaela Fiorina and President Mario Ferrarone

ITALY

Pantex celebrates years in textile trading

Pantex, well know as a onestop-shop for European wool and top buyers - is celebrating 40 years of successful trading. Victor Chesky caught up with joint Managing Director of Pantex Piercarlo Zedda at the IWTO Congress in New York to talk about future plans for Pantex.

ver this time we have been known for our fast delivery, wide range of products and competitive prices. Our clients know that we can be flexible and versatile, and our experience in selecting the right wool is the reason why they come back to us for orders time and time again. ‘Many of our clients have been coming to us for 25 years and more - in fact most of our customers, knowing our standard types don’t even ask for a sample - delivery goes straight through because the quality of our wool products are so consistent’, says Mr Zedda. ‘And that is why our clients are happy to come and do business with us year after year’. Pantex spa is based in the heart of Biella, Italy and is represented throughout Europe. Piercarlo Zedda – Joint Managing Director of Pantex is also Immediate Past President of the Italian Wool Trade Association and current Vice President of IWTO. Pantex is run jointly by Piercarlo and his brother Giovanni Zedda. 126 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Giovanni Zedda (left) and Piercarlo Zedda

So what are the plans for Pantex in the near future? Mr Zedda comments that Pantex will continue to provide quality service, fast delivery, and an even wider range of products. ‘New wool types have created an increase in business for us. Our business is growing and we are offering a more diverse range of products to reflect the needs of our customers. We are diversifying and changing in line with the industry and this is our strength’, says Mr Zedda. ‘We continue to offer the most standard types in stock but if customers want something different we can source it quickly. We are finding that more and more customers are coming to us for individual types of wool and tops for their specific needs, and we can source and deliver because we have so many good contacts around the world’.

As well as top making Pantex operate centralized sorting, cleaning, blending and opening of wool fibres. ‘All wool brought to our plant is tested and classified’, says Mr Zedda. The company offers long term contracts as well as one off buying from warehouses with stock at hand opportunities. Standard types offered by Pantex include tops, open tops, re-combed tops, scoured wool from Australia, New Zealand, South America, South Africa, and Europe. The company versatility and diversity enables it to offer wool blends, carbonized wools, carbonized wools blend, and carbonized noils. Wool-wastes sales are also a commodity well established by this company and include combing wool-wastes, spinning woolwastes and weaving wool-wastes. Piercarlo Zedda can be contacted by email at pantex@pantex-spa.it or www.pantex-spa.it

PANTEX S.p.A.

ITALY

Italian agent offers gateway to European buyers

ny wool export company from outside Europe that wished to export its products to the European continent needs an agent or representative who can offer a knowledge of the European market, experience with a variety of fibre, including wool and speciality fibre. Such an agent should also have a proven record, says Mauro Trapella Director at Laniera Italiana. This has never been as important as it is now, when general consumption in European countries is falling’, says Mr Trapella. Laniera Italiana represents wool and wool top exporters and processor from all major wool producing countries. The company, based in Biella Italy, has been successfully representing exporters of wool and speciality fibre for over 22 years. The company is managed jointly by Mr Trapella and Pierluigi Mazzia who has been working in the European wool industry for over 30 years. Pierluigi Mazzia and Mauro Trapella Directors at Laniera Italiana.

The company focuses on supplying wool tops, scoured and greasy from Australia, New Zealand, South America, and main European countries such as Spain, Portugal, Hungary, Germany, Holland and France. The company also offers traditional speciality fibres such as mohair, cashmere, angora, alpaca, llama, silk and camel. ‘In the last 5 years the trading conditions in Europe have changed quite dramatically’, says Mr Mazzia who is also a past treasurer of the Italian Wool Trade Association. ‘There was substantial stock of scoured wool and wool tops available in Europe, but in the last 5 years there has been virtually no stock available. We are now more and more involved with our clients in working on plans to import sufficient quantities for their use at the right time and at the right price’. But today Laniera Italiana has expanded its activities and now has a representative office in Istanbul Turkey and in Shanghai China. ‘These offices are fundamental to our day-to-day business activities’, says Mr Trapella. ‘They support our ability to quickly assess wool market situations on the ground, including stock availability, customer need and current prices and opportunities and we can access a wide variety of products. This is the key to our success to date’. Companies interested in contacting Laniera Italiana should contact Pierluigi Mazzia or Mauro Trapella at wool@lanieraitaliana.it

128 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

ITALY

European customers take advantage of Greystone Wool Greystone Wool supplies raw textile materials, including wool, to the European textile industry. ‘We are known to our customers here in Europe as prompt and reliable suppliers’, says Mauro Delorenzi, who has been with the company since 2006 and has 25 years experience working in the wool industry.

reystone Wool supplies its customers with wool direct from origin on a full container basis. ‘We have well established links to suppliers in New Zealand, Australia and here in Europe’, says Mr Delorenzi.

Mauro Delorenzi

The company supplies scoured wools from New Zealand, scoured and carbonised wools from Australia and customers can contact the company for their particular requirement types that are available in Europe. ‘We offer a service that is reliable and quick when supplying tops, open tops, scoured and carbonised wools from all origins as well as noble fibers such as dehaired cashmere and dehaired cashmere tops and angora’. ‘We are always looking to establish contact with exporters of wool and speciality fibre and manufacturers of tops and noils around the world’. Mr Delorenzi is happy to speak with new customers about their wool needs and to help them determine the most suitable wool currently available. ‘First time visitors to Biella could be forgiven for thinking that our quiet, picturesque town nestled at the base of white snow capped mountains in Northern Italy is as quiet as it appears. It is traditionally known as a hub for companies in European wool and textile production and we are always happy to welcome buyers to Biella’. Mauro Delorenzi can be contact in Biella Tel. 039 015 8497172 E. mauro@gw-srl.it Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 129

INDIA

Jaya Shree seizing opportunities beyond its Indian border Jaya Shree Textiles is taking a leading role in India’s wool export industry. It is the wool combing division of Aditya Birla Nuvo Ltd and has been operating globally for some 17 years. The company sells its product in over 50 countries, spanning all six continents. Jaya Shree was established in West Bengal (India) in 1949 and has emerged as a market leader in the Indian textile industry.

is well benchmarked internationally. Wool top is packed in bump form weighing only 10kg appx. The weight

‘We import selective merino wool from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa and export quality top and yarn globally’, says Joint President (wool business) Mr Santosh Patodia. ‘Further, we will soon be

processing Cashmere fibre as well’,

of each bale is 320 kg ± with 32 tops.

added Mr Patodia.

Wool exports rose sharply in mid

Jaya Shree offers wool top in the 14.5

And while a slow down in China and

2011 in response to increased orders.

to 24.0 micron range – suitable for

a slump in the EU / US is being felt

apparel and knit fabric. The quality

in India it is hoped that a growing

Accredited with Interwool lab certification (Belgium)

130 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

INDIA

domestic market will ensure that the textiles industry will continue to be buoyant. In recent years India has been the focal point of continuous growth and development making it one of the fastest growing economies of the world. Where many big economies have been struggling – India grew 7% last year and a similar trend is foreseen in the coming year. India is the fourth largest economy in the world in terms of purchasing power parity, due in part to a growing domestic market. ‘Today the woollen sector of the Indian Textile Industry has many big brands names on its horizon. We understand the concept of brand marketing and so do our customers. We sell 100% wool tops as well as blended yarns for weaving and knitting. We also sell pure linen yarn and fabric as well as linen blended fabrics to the global and domestic markets’, says Manoj Marda, Asst Vice President (Wool Combing). Jaya Shree has strict quality control and its well equipped laboratory uses Interwoollabs accredited measuring instruments including Almeter and OFDA. It has been awarded the ISO 14000 certificate for its implementation of environment-protecting work. ‘We have a sophisticated effluent treatment plant with the most modern D.A.F Floculator together with a highly efficient microbiological treatment. We have environmentally friendly processing techniques’, says Mr Marda. The company also has international certification in ISO 9001: 2000, ISO 1401: 2004, OHSAS 18001: 2007 and SA 8000: 2001 as well as Oeko Tex 100. For more information please contact Mr Manoj Marda at manoj.marda@ adityabirla.com

Sell to 5000 buyers in China Wool Exporter is an ideal advertising vehicle to reach 5000 major buyers in China. Wool Exporter is a Chinese language publication. Exporters and processors of wool, wooltop and yarn can promote their products and services to buyers in China, in their own language, breaking down the language barrier. For companies that have established customers in China, advertising in WOOL EXPORTER will reinforce your position as a preferred supplier to these existing customers, and will also introduce your company to new buyers. For companies seeking new export business, advertising in WOOL EXPORTER will introduce your company to this targeted decision maker base in all sectors of the wool industry in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan. WOOL EXPORTER is circulated to over 5000 major importers of wool and speciality fibres, processing and wooltop mills, carpet manufacturers, spinners and weavers, and government agencies and ministries in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan. This magazine is also distributed to all delegates attending the annual Nanjing Wool Market Conference, the major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China. It is published in September each year and is a buyers’ guide that is used by our readers in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan as a reference tool for the following 12 months. For further information please contact us on victorch@bigpond.com or visit us at http://www.woolnews.net/magazine-advertising/

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 131

WOOL IN BEDDING

Bedding manufacturers get more from Joma Wool ‘An increasing number of consumers are being influenced by concerns for our environment and bedding products are no exception’, says Peter Crone, Managing Director of John Marshall & Co. ‘This is why more and more bedding manufacturers are turning to wool for the production of mattresses and other bedding applications. Products made from natural wool are chemical free, non toxic and flame resistant’.

ccording to information published by IWTO, sleeping under a wool quilt lowers the heart rate, providing a better night’s sleep. When used in bedding, wool creates a micro climate that assists in regulating body temperature and humidity. Its thermal comfort and moisture absorbency are properties ideally suited for bedding and the babycare market. John Marshall & Co, of New Zealand, supplies Joma® Wool to bedding manufacturers around the world including a major US luxury

bedding manufacturer that has just announced its entry into the Chinese luxury bedding market. Bed sets are being sold in retail outlets in cities such as Shanghai and Beijing for $3,500 to $50,000 (US). The products will be manufactured in the USA plant and exported to China where Eternal Sleep stores will sell the brands on an exclusive basis. ‘The wool used in these exclusive products is our Joma® Wool brand - specially processed crimped New Zealand wool’. Joma® Wool is specially treated to increase the bulk by between 40 50% and decrease felting migration by 40%. It is an ideal product for bedding manufacturers interested in tapping into this environmentally conscious, growing market. ‘We also recently developed a new merino product which is branded Joma® Merino Pure. We have enhanced the natural resilience of the merino fiber by applying additional crimp. Each individual hair functions like a miniature spring, holding the body weight gently, while the spring ‘action’ actively circulates the air around the fiber. The vertical alignment of the fibers and the crimp create an active air cushion under the body. The gentle air circulation is fueled by the slightest movement or change in temperatures. The air cushion allows the wool to work its

132 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

magic effectively: higher wool and air volume enhance the benefits of temperature and water vapor diffusion, keeping the body within its natural comfort zone’. The fiber is knitted into a protex/ cotton fireproof backing to provide a critical performance enhancement for modern mattresses. The smooth surface of the fabric blends in seamlessly, the texture is inviting and creates a natural environment for the body. The three dimensional structure super charges the performance of the high quality performance wool, and unlike chemical or phase chase solutions the performance is not subject to load or time restrictions. The fabric is a synergy of nature and science providing enduring performance, all night long! ‘Many of our customers around the world find that New Zealand wool from John Marshall & Co performs better. Our customers receive a superior product. They receive a fibre that is 100% natural, giving them a competitive edge against synthetic fibres’. We are always pleased to see manufacturers who use New Zealand wool in a variety of products to create new and innovative products for environmentally conscious consumers ‘, says Mr Crone. For more information please contact Peter Crone at peter@joma.co.nz

Stay one step ahead use Joma速 Wool

PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

WOOL IN BEDDING

More Demand for environmentally friendly wool for bedding The demand for natural and environmentally friendly products in the bedding industry has been growing rapidly in the last couple of years. The use of natural products such as wool has been on the increase for applications such as duvets and other bedding products.

ut mainstream bedding materials often include synthetic materials. According to Albert Chippendale Director at Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB) ‘the more discerning purchaser is becoming more and more aware of the brilliant attributes of wool for bedding. It is warm in winter and cool in summer, and very importantly it

Albert Chippendale with treated wool - in big demand by the bedding industry

is made from a sustainable and renewable fibre- wool! Of course prior to the Superwash process the fibre was limited in its use for bedding. However with the introduction of the Process wool can compete very favourably with synthetic fibre in its easy care performance’. For the consumer who prefers a process which does not incorporate chlorine, SPB has developed its own process to render the wool machine washable without the use of chlorine. However as Mr Chippendale points out even chlorine treated wool from his plant contains less chlorine than drinking water! ‘We have been developing our own in-house technology that enables us to treat wool using a chlorine free eco-friendly process’, says Mr Chippendale. This has been successful and the company is now looking to the future to develop this process for wool tops as well. ‘Our main process for bedding utilises the Kroy chlorination technology’, says Mr Chippendale. ‘This is a tried and tested method for providing machine washable wool which will last the useable lifetime of the product. This system of chlorination control eliminates inconsistencies associated with earlier wool shrink proofing processes. The Kroy method of continuous wool top shrink proofing provides superior results with the additional advantages of improved colour and soft handle, better dyeing properties and reduced

134 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

WOOL IN BEDDING

pilling’. The company is located in Bradford UK and is central to Europe, always an advantage in respect to quick transportation and delivery. SPB has been treating wool and wool tops for bedding manufacturers for many years. ‘We have a lot of experience using this treatment. Our company is 100% independent and we are not aligned to any other wool export company’. ‘As an independent processor, customers can send their wool to us for treatment, with confidence that it will be processed to their specification. We have a quick turnaround and customers usually receive their product back within days’. An increase in demand for eco friendly bedding products by consumers has fuelled this resurgence. ‘This demand made by the consumer for such non toxic natural textile products has been a challenge to the wool processing industry’, says Mr Chippendale. However, SPB was one of the first companies in the UK to receive approval under stringent European legislation as an integrated pollution prevention and control plant. ‘Our plant meets all the most advanced treatment specifications and we operate to ISO 9001 quality standards. We are also registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK. We offer natural products that are environmentally friendly, with OEKO TEX certification’. For more information about SPB eco friendly bedding products please contact Albert Chippendale at speciality. processors@btopenworld.com Tel: 00 44 1274 667178 Fax: 00 44 1274 667121

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 135

WOOL IN BEDDING

Vi-Spring becomes the first bed-maker to achieve the Woolmark for its luxury all-wool Shetland Collection

ritish bespoke bed-maker, Vi-Spring, has become the first UK bed-maker to

be awarded the Woolmark for its luxurious collection of all-wool beds. Made using 100 per cent wool – from fillings to upholstery – Vi-Spring’s Shetland Collection is the first of its kind, with exclusive use of real

Shetland wool; a naturally soft, warm and sustainable fibre. Recognised around the world, the respected Woolmark is synonymous with quality and guaranteed wool content. Vi-Spring’s luxury all-wool range, The Shetland Collection, underwent rigorous independent testing to comply with the

Woolmark’s quality and performance criteria. Each and every bed is handcrafted in Vi-Spring’s Devon workshop using the finest mix of real Shetland wool and pure Platinum Certified British Fleece Wool and finished with hand-tied woollen tufts. A selection is available of the highest quality all-wool fabrics to cover divan base and headboard to create a stand out look in the bedroom. A planet friendly fibre, wool is uniquely suited to bed-making thanks to its natural softness, warmth and durability. It is an effective insulator and works to keep you cool in the summer, warm in the winter, and to draw moisture away from the body before releasing it into the air, ensuring a clean, fresh and hypoallergenic sleeping surface. Wool is also naturally resistant to dust mites, making a perfect choice for allergy sufferers.

(Vi-Spring’s Shetland Superb with Wool Sovereign divan) 136 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Vi-Spring is proud to promote the Woolmark with The Shetland Collection, which includes the Shetland and Shetland Superb (as well as the Gatcombe and Marrister bedstead mattress, which are exclusive to John Lewis). ViSpring is also a keen supporter of the Campaign for Wool, which is committed to preserving Britain’s precious wool industry.

Textile Machinery

TEXTILE MACHINERY

nsc fibre to yarn the latest in fibre processing technology It has been a busy year at NSC fibre to yarn. NSC fibre to yarn is a world leader in fibre textile machinery including such well known brands as Cognetex, Sant’ Andrea Novara, N. Schlumberger, and Seydel. NSC has over 25,000 of its machines currently operating around the world. Victor Chesky spoke with Patrick Strehle, Commercial Director at the company head office in Guebwiller France. ‘The most recent ITMA expo was very successful for us’, says Mr Strehle. ‘We have received much interest in our new machinery lines’.

in Thailand’. The recent floods in

‘One of the biggest ongoing projects for us at the moment is supplying new machinery and replacing damaged machinery at INDORAMA

around the clock to put Indorama

and around Bangkok damaged most of the machinery at the Indorama factory. ‘We have staff working back on track to resume production in all areas. A very important aspect of our company is service’.

Patrick Strehle next to a GC30 chain gill in the new NSC fibre to yarn showroom specifically designed for customers to view completely assembled machines, see them running, and even enabling them to test process their wool to see the end result and quality

NSC fibre to yarn offers its customers an excellent after sales service of very professional experts for all technical issues, quick assistance when needed, and various training courses for customer staff. It also offers programs in audits for existing machines, kits for machine renewal and ongoing maintenance programs. Another new development at NSC fibre to yarn has been the construction of a new showroom where clients can come and view a number of new fully assembled machines. ‘Those interested in purchasing machinery can even send their wool to us for a test run on this machinery so that we can demonstrate the results that can be achieved. We plan to change the machines in our show room every 6 month or so and this will enable customers to see the latest machinery as it is developed’. NSC fibre to yarn has also established a new machine painting facility within its factory. ‘This new painting line will ensure that we can maintain a high level of quality within our entire machinery range’. ‘Customers today appreciate that to stay competitive they need the latest textile machinery available. The machinery that is user friendly, highly automated, saves money on energy and has low operational and maintenance costs and is therefore more cost effective. To achieve savings we definitely see new machinery as a preferred option. Our customers that have upgraded to the latest models experience a faster turnaround, better quality outcome and more trouble free production’.

138 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

TEXTILE MACHINERY

As an example Mr Strehle points to

ERA Combing Machine

the latest ERA combing machine. ‘This latest machine has a very high production capacity. It combs at more than 50kg per hour for a 21/22 micron wool and in recombing 2.5 to 3 kg per hour for grey wool. This machine guarantees a high quality of combing and is very gentle to the fibre. It can increase productivity by 25%. All NSC fibre to yarn machinery is equipped with highly efficient motors (class IE2) for engines with 0.75 to 375kW. This is fully compliant with a new directive by EuP Technical Europe Lot 11 that supports the new IEC 60034-30 standard classification performance of electric motors. NSC fibre to yarn supplies most of the combing and recombing units to the world textile industry with a market share of over 75%. Also high in demand is the GC30 chain gill, with a delivery speed that reaches

3 Progressive combing, uniform speed of circular comb, pinned on 360°

3 Memorised recipes for work parameters and easy reproduction

3 Reduced amplitude of carriage and detached rollers in motions

3 Decrease in operational and maintenance costs

3 Very high quality tops

3 Possibility of machine interconnection and remote adjustments

3 High productivity, more than 50kg/hr in 21/22 wool 3 Textile adjustments from machine screen or centralised

3 Telediagnostic (optional)

600m/min. The D3/D5 GC30 blender defelter is a GC30 with a defelter and blending zone, can also be equipped with an electronic autoleveller. ‘We have developed textile machinery

CA6 and CA7 semi worsted card – one of the many top making machines offered by NSC fibre to yarn from its innovative production range

with the latest technology for a variety of customer needs including small and big operations. We are well positioned to deliver customers fully integrated systems and deliver complete production lines from fibre opening and blending to finished bobbins. We work with other leading machinery manufacturers to supply specific equipment that is not in our product range but is complementary to it, and we manage installation from start to finish. We provide our customers guarantees and assurances’, says Mr Strehle. For more information please contact: Patrick STREHLE, e-mail: Patrick.strehle@nsc.fr

3 For all types of wools

3 CXF hopper feeder

3 2.5 to 3.5m working width

3 TRE/TRD drafting head

3 CA7 TRIO card for wools with

3 Integrated suction

high VM

3 Screen control

Tel : +33 (0) 3 89 74 41 41 Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 139

TEXTILE MACHINERY

Tecnomeccanica - offers the latest innovations in fibre preparation & blending To produce quality textile products that meet the right environmental credentials fibre processors must use the most up-to-date textile machinery, says Mario Ploner Commercial Director of Tecnomeccanica Biellese srl. ‘Changes in environmental laws has already forced many companies to up-grade their textile machinery. Old and second hand textile machinery can no longer meet today’s demands. We are well aware of the challenges faced by fibre processors and we work together with them to achieve the best possible result in the most competitive way’, says Mr Ploner. Tecnomeccanica has been producing textile machinery since 1968. It is a world leader in the design, manufacture and installation of machinery for staple fibre processing, combing and spinning. The company is particularly well known for supplying combing mills around the world with automatic plants for opening, beating and blending greasy wool with automatic feeding to scouring lines.

Automatic bale plucker

Tecnomeccanica is also a well known supplier of blending equipment for woollen and semi worsted spinning. It supplies semi and fully automatic plants for preparing blending, dust removal and automatic feeding of carding machines. ‘Our machines have been used by wool processors and textile manufacturers all around the world for such companies as Loro Piano, Zegna, Botto Giuseppe, REDA Barberis and many others’. Mario Ploner Commercial Director Tecnomeccanica

‘We provide the latest machinery to assist combers in areas of beating and dusting of scoured wool, pneumatic transport to automatic storage bins

• mechanically strips fibre from pressed bales • automatically drops the fibre on to feed tables of opening machinery at the beginning of the spinning lines • the functions of taking, discharging & cleaning are controlled by a computerised digital panel with touch - screen • photo electric sensor beams provide complete protection against accidents - in line with European health & safety legislation

140 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

for scoured wool and card feeding. We also design and install suction and recycling units for by-products from carding’.

‘We are still in the business of upgrading, renovating and repairing machinery should a company need our expertise. We always respond to our clients needs with upgrading and implementing new innovation into their existing structure’, says Mr Ploner. ‘But the future is definitely belongs to new and advancing machinery’, he added. Tecnomeccanica also supplies textile machinery for rug tearing mills, cloth finishing departments, and willow waste beating and cleaning companies. Tecnomeccanica has the ability to implement its technology while working within the existing space and machinery of individual clients. It is often favoured for its ability to be extremely flexible when working with customers no matter where they are based. For more information please contact Mario Ploner at mario@tbsrl.it or www.tbsrl.it

TEXTILE MACHINERY

Wool Recycle Eco System from Tecnomeccanica Last year Tecnomeccanica Biellese, a well known textile machinery manufacturer in Biella Italy developed a new system using greasy wool to clean up oil spills at sea. Coarse wool, which is the cheapest, with a fibre diameter of between 25 and 40 microns, was able to absorb ten times its own weight of heavy fuel oil, a refinery product similar to crude.

he oil can be squeezed out and the wool reused. After a dozen immersions in oil, for between 15 and 20 seconds each time, the wool’s absorptive capacity did not decline. Mario Ploner, the Commercial Director of Tecnomeccanica Biellese, says the ship-based system will use external booms running parallel with the vessel’s sides to channel oil onto wool that has been spread over the surface of the sea. Mechanical mixers fitted between the booms and the hull will increase the wool’s absorptive

capacity. As the ship moves through a spill, the oil-impregnated wool will be gathered mechanically up ramps and taken into the ship. As the wool is transported up these ramps any droplets of water attached to it will be shaken off. Once on board the wool will be pressed to recover the oil and then reused. Mr Ploner estimates it would cost about €1m ($1.5m) to equip a 50-metre vessel to carry ten tonnes of wool. That would be sufficient, in optimum circumstances, to recover over 1,000 tonnes of oil.

�� squeeze.

1 - Blades catch the wool from the water.

2 - Water falls from a perforated metal sheet, the wool slides up to the top of the belt, pushed by the blades. 3 - Two rubber cylinder squeeze the wool, a diaphragm ��

142 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

In practice, Mr Ploner believes that cleaning up the Deepwater Horizon spill of almost 5m barrels would have needed around 7,000 tonnes of wool. At a current market price of less than $1 a kilo, that does not add up to a huge sum for such an industry. The new Wool Recycle Eco System has now moved to a final stage of preparation with a prototype currently being built, and soon to be put to trial. The prototype is being built

with the engineering department of the University of Torino and RINA, a major consultancy unit that determines approval for sea worthiness to all vessels at sea within Italian waters. According to Mr Ploner this system, which can deal with small spills as well as large spills will work better than containment booms, chemical dispersants and other methods deployed by the oil industry today. This oil recovery system has already been patented in Italy and the procedure to register the patent internationally is proceeding. Mr Ploner expects the prototype to be completed by the end of next year and said that several parties have already expressed interest in buying the system for installation on their ships. Interested parties should contact Mario Ploner at mario@tbsrl.it or www.tbsrl.it

1 Wool bales 2 The fibre is expanded by means of textile machines 3 Wool is uniformly distributed inside the channel 4 Absorption capacity increased by means of mechanic mixers 5 The wool with absorbed oil is recovered while the water remains in the sea 6 The wool is squeezed and oil stored in the lower ship level ; the squeezed wool is brought to the ship’s bow for a new cycle

Our missionto design the most suitable solution for your baling needs

TEXTILE MACHINERY

Innovation in wool baling from Valvan Although the cost of fibre is generally influenced by market demand, the cost of labour can be controlled and reduced by using the latest machinery. The introduction of the latest baling system into any wool processing line will increase productivity and reduce downtime. Valvan Baling Systems, situated in Menen Belgium, is well known for its ability to provide fibre baling solutions to textile producers. The company is also well known as a supplier of sorting equipment for second hand clothing and horizontal presses for waste materials.

n the last 15 years Valvan has successfully taken over three other well known baling press manufacturers - LVD (fibre presses), Piferoen (horizontal presses) and St.-Eloi (bump presses). For all of these machines, Valvan can supply service and spare parts. The company also recently joined forces with Gualchierani Baling Systems, a well known hydraulic press manufacturer for the textile industry. ‘Baling presses are an essential part of any fibre line’, says Frank Vandeputte CEO. ‘We have continuously expanded our product range through innovation and acquisition of other engineering companies, and today we offer the widest range of baling press solutions to customers’.

Wool press being assembled at Valvan factory workshop 144 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

TEXTILE MACHINERY

Valvan provides customized solutions for all stages of fibre handling. It offers single box presses for greasy wool with a production capacity up to 2.000 kg/ h and a bale weight up to 450 kg. For baling scoured wool the company offers single box presses with a production capacity up to 1.200 kg/ h and a bale weight up to 320 kg/ bale. For higher capacities,it can install semi and full-automatic swivel box presses (lift box type)up to 3.500 kg/ h and bale weights up to 500 kg. For low production capacities up to 800 kg/ h, Valvan manufactures low cost horizontal channel presses and basic single box presses, producing bales up to 200 kg. For the wool top industry, Valvan offers bump presses of 400-600-800 mm with a capacity of 20 bumps/h with manual loading and manual rope-tying or up to 50 bumps/ h with automatic rope-tying. Vertical single box presses (above ground or underground) for baling bumps with manual loading, wrapping and strapping with a capacity of 4 to 5 bales/ h, are also available as well as horizontal presses for baling tops with automatic loading of bagged tops and manual wrapping and strapping of bales with a capacity of 8 bales/h. For each of these applications Valvan can supply custommade peripheral equipment such as feeding systems, automatic wrapping and strapping systems, bale handling and warehousing systems in order to facilitate or eliminate manual labor. Valvan Baling Systems has been successful, due to its ability to respond to market needs with innovative and cost effective designs. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;All our machines are designed in 3D and produced in our own workshops, including hydraulic power pack, hydraulic cylinders and electrical cabinets. This ensures our quality level and allows a short lead-time on spare partsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, says Mr Vandeputte. Two companies are never the same and every company has its own unique requirements. Whether a company is close by or on the other side of the world,Valvan will facilitate the needs of its customer quickly and efficiently. It employs a team that delivers a high level of technical support, and the multilingual after-sales department offers fast and reliable, remote and on-site service. For new machines, it also supplies systems for remote support through internet access. For further information please contact Valvan Baling Systems nv Tel: +32 56 521 380 Fax: +32 56 518 334 Email: sales@valvan.com website: www.valvan.com

Valvan bump press Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 145

TEXTILE MACHINERY

Gualchierani Baling Systems continues to offer former brand Gualchierani Baling Systems offers cost effective baling solutions to fibre processors. It combines the experience of well-known engineering companies in Europe that specialises in manufacturing baling presses and other textile machinery. Valvan Baling Systems and Gualchierani Baling Systems have combined their forces and now work together in manufacturing baling presses for synthetic and natural fibres, including wool.

resses are assembled at the Valvan factory in Belgium. All enquiries for Gualchierani machinery and after sales service are also handled at the Valvan head office. ‘We are very pleased to be associated with such a well-known brand as Gualchierani and would like our customers to know that Gualchierani machinery and spare parts are now marketed worldwide by Gualchierani Baling Systems through our head office in Belgium’, says Frank Vandeputte CEO. Gualchierani Baling Systems name is synonymous as a manufacturer of hydraulic presses for the baling of textile fibre. It has over 2300

machines operating around the world. Gualchierani has been designing and manufacturing its machinery in Italy since 1948. It rapidly became a leading supplier of baling technology to fibre producers and wool processors. It provides highly innovative machinery for baling wool, alpaca, and cashmere.

Dye houses, keen to avoid the loss of straps after dyeing, would be interested in bump presses for Ø 800 mm bumps with strapping, passing through the centre. Bump presses are available for “big” bumps Ø 1.400 mm and 250 kg each, after which a square bale (1.200 x 1.200 mm) will be formed with 2 “big” bumps.

In the field of man-made fibre, Gualchierani also leads the field in the production of baling machines for manual and full-automatic operations. Automatic machines include automatic wrapping and strapping with a capacity up to 12 tons per hour. Gualchierani also offers complete systems for plaiting and baling of tow in acrylic, polyester or acetate.

Bump presses for Ø 400 mm bumps with strapping with polypropylene bands (Gualchierani style) or rope (St-Eloi style) are also available as are single box presses for bumps, tops and loose fibre.

Gualchierani brand machinery runs in almost every fibre processing operation in the world. It is known to be fast and reliable and together with Valvan Baling Systems, it is trusted for it’s before and after sales services. Gualchierani Baling Systems’ catalogue of machinery includes baling presses for scoured wool with a production of bales of 400 / 420 kg and dimensions 740 x 720 x 1.140 mm in order to load 20 to 22 tons in a 20’ container. The same is true for bumps and tops, using a 600 tons baling press with a special type of lateral walls. 146 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

For every application the company provides a customised control system that could be a simple relay technology or PC controlled network with operational remote control. Introducing such latest baling technology will enhance a faster turnaround, offer considerable savings in labour costs and protect the quality of the product. Gualchierani Baling Systems provides fast and reliable world-wide service on old and new Gualchierani baling presses and supplies high quality spare parts. For information about Gualchierani Baling Systems please contact Email: sales@gualchieranibaling.com website: www.gualchieranibaling.com Tel: +32 56 521 380 Fax: +32 56 518 334

TEXTILE MACHINERY

VSN Draw Frame

Sant’ Andrea Novara the latest in worsted units, preparation and spinning Sant’ Andrea Novara is a brand well known to all textile processing companies around the world. It is a world leader in manufacturing and installing high-performance machinery for top making, blending and spinning in the sector of wool and other fibres. You will hardly ever find a processing plant that does not utilise Sant’ Andrea machines.

B Silvio Givone

148 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

ased in the Italian city of Novara, Sant’ Andrea has been supplying its machinery to manufacturers since 1928.

on the RF5 drafting assemblies can

In the last couple of years the company has restructured to become more flexible and more efficient. ‘Our new line of RF Vertical Rubbing Frames and SH multi-head drawing frames have been very well received by the market’, says Silvio Givone. ‘Our RF5 is a vertical finisher with a double apron. The modular design means that it can run at all times. It produces a high quality of sliver at maximum speed with 2200 strokes per minute with a speed of up to 300 metres per minute. The ratch settings

diagrams’.

be adjusted through a servo-control mechanism, in between feeding and drafting, allowing fibre control to all

The main construction features which determined the success of the previous RF 4 model (modular structure and double rubbing) have not changed in the new vertical finisher but its performance is improved by new technical solutions. ‘It has an excellent working speed and is mechanically reliability, and in terms of efficiency and quality results is considered the most advanced in its field’, says Silvio Givone.

s it n u n r a y o t e r ib f Long staple

07/2012

Cognetex promote Sant’Andrea Novara and production lines. innovating and efficient Cognetex Sant’Andrea Novara and a wide range design and manufacture e of natural of solutions for yarns mad and synthetic fibres: • Top making lines recombing lines d an ng di en bl , ng lti fe De • • Tow to top lines • Semi-worsted lines

TEL. +39 0321 3721 info@santandreanovara.com

TEXTILE MACHINERY

The RF5 is available in two versions, to meet any process needs. The RF5a version is recommended for medium/ fine and extra-fine counts, while the RF5b version is suitable for medium/ large counts and high production speeds. The SH multi-head drawing frame is another line favoured by textile processors around the world. The new SH drawing frame is used for the preparation to spinning of wool-diagram fibres. The Multi-head drawing frame has separate sliver paths to eliminate any “marriage”. Intersecting-disc control heads with rotating disk movement guarantees the delicate handling of the fibres and the excellent quality results. The multi-head drawing frame SH is equipped with the new Dialoguer user machine interface. Sant’ Andrea Novara also markets machinery specifically dedicated to cashmere fibre processing - The Sant’ Andrea Novara VSN draw frame is capable of working this precious fibre. The screw gills VSN guarantees an optimal quality with increased production. ‘Our customers include some of the most important

SH multi-head drawing frame - a unique pre-spinning drawing frame for high quality results

and prominent names in Italian

‘Today combers, spinners and weavers

cashmere’, says Silvio Givone.

must manufacture their products at great speed, in great quantities and

Another key machine from the Sant

at a great price, and all this points to

Andrea Novara machines range is the ALFA combing machine results

the need for the latest machinery to

in a better sliver cleanliness due to

achieve this or you will lag behind

the increased combing time of the

your competition’, concludes Silvio

circular comb, as well as remarkable

Givone. For more information

production results (speed up to 260

please contact Silvio GIVONE

cycles/min), and reduced time for the

E-mail: info@santandreanovara.com

changing of lots’.

Tel.+39 0321 3721

RF5 vertical rubbing frame from Sant’ Andrea Novara

150 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Connecting buyers and sellers since 1986 1986

WOOL EXPORTER THE BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2007

羊毛出口商

直立式剪毛平台技术准备推广牧场使用澳大利亚绵羊生产商调查结果印度经济增长的制约因素

新西兰洗净毛在中国日益受到欢迎

来自南非的马海毛

乌拉圭报告

南非羊毛－畅销全球市场的优质产品

Wool Buyer international

Wool TRADE international

Standards in eco-friendly & organic wool & textile

Noble fibres prominently in designer collections South AfricA - Positive trends for a wool & mohair NeW ZealaNd - Presents new carpet concept British - Wool sales on the rise uruguAy - Wooltops export to Europe grow Peru - Pest prices paid for alpaca textile machiNery revolution takes hold

2009

TRADE DiREcToRy

thE BuyErS guiDE to WooL 2008

2012

we build relationsHips

International Trade Publications

PO Box 11, Caulfield South, Melbourne Victoria 3162, Australia Tel: 61 3 9533 0627 • Fax: 61 3 9533 0727 Email: info@woolnews.net • Web: www.woolnews.net

WOOL TESTING

AWTA - predicting outcomes in wool processing Quick, easy, accurate Electronic Certification

ool buyers that have purchased Australian wool can validate their wool testing certificates by using the AWTA online verification system. ‘Buyers and processors can use this system to check the authenticity of wool measurement certificates that they receive’, says Ian Ashman AWTA General Manager Customer Relations. ‘The results of verification are sent by email in a secure pdf format’. For some years now AWTA has made such electronic certificates to its customers. PDF versions of AWTA Test Certificates and Guidance Reports can be received by customers, either automatically at the time they are created, or via our Post-Sale Printing and Combined Certificate services. Clients can also use the Online Verification System to request PDF copies of Certificates. ‘Our principle business has always been the certification of greasy wool for trading. We see ourselves as providing a bridge between the research and the commercial application in testing. The introduction of electronic certificates is just another extension of this and it will provide an additional level of assurance and security to all sectors of the wool industry’, says Mr Ashman. The link to the validation of AWTA certificates can be found by clicking on the “Online Services” menu item on the left side menu of our homepage (at https://www.awta. com.au/censys/lang1/OVPEXIspecView.asp). A fact sheet on on-line verification is available at: http://www.awta.com.au/en/ Home/Publications/Fact-Sheets/OnlineVerification/

152 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Today, virtually all Australian wool is measured and tested prior to sale. With the benefit of AWTA Ltd (Australian Wool Testing Authority) certification wool processors purchasing Australian wool can confidently expect that wool purchased to their price and processing specifications will perform to their requirements. Growers are assured of being paid according to the objective specification of their wool.

hile the availability of objective measurements for Yield, Vegetable Matter and Mean Fibre Diameter improved many aspects of the prediction of processing performance, it is also influenced by other parameters of which Staple Length & Strength is considered to be the most important, says Ian Ashman, AWTA General Manager Customer Relations. This determines the value of combing wool with an average fibre length, which will be achieved after processing. This length is known as Hauteur. Research has shown that Hauteur is closely correlated to the staple length and staple strength of greasy wool. ‘Most processors today use a more diverse mix of combing wool types. It is vital that all lots purchased are tested for Staple Length & Strength’, says Mr Ashman. ‘This is doubly important in skirting types where the variability within sale lots will be higher than fleece types’. ‘All Australian wool can be easily tested. Such wool testing enables wool processors to predict how the wool will perform during processing and what the end result will be before the processor even starts his machine’. AWTA only certifies tests that have been taken by AWTA sampling officers or where sampling operations have been supervised on a full time basis by AWTA. This process is endorsed by Australian National Committee of IWTO. ‘Many customers require a quick return of certified test results’, says Mr Ashman. ‘We provide three different levels of service to meet customer needs. Our Express Service issues 95% of certificates the following morning, Fast Service issues 95% of certificates within 3 days, and the Normal Service issues all certificates within 5 days’. AWTA laboratories operate in Australia 24 hours a day 5 days a week. Sampling is conducted in 38 cities and towns throughout Australia. For more information visit AWTA website - www.awta.com.au or Email: awtainfo@awta.com.au

For Results you can Trust

WOOL TESTING

Well regarded testing services from China’s JinAo ‘While there are many companies in China that offer testing services, it is essential to deal with accredited and internationally recognised testing houses to ensure accurate results that will be recognised by global authorities’, says Craig Wales Division Manager AWTA Product Testing, based in Melbourne, Australia.

r Wales recently replaced John Lewis who has retires after many years in the industry. AWTA Product Testing is accountable for the planning, coordinating and control of materials and testing within the sphere of AWTA Ltd operations. JinAo is a joint venture with the Jiangsu Inspection Corporation (JSIC), Industrial Product Testing Centre (IPTC) of CIQ Jiangsu and Australian Wool Testing Authority Ltd (AWTA). ‘If you are looking to export your products to China JinAo should be the company to test these products’, says Mr Wales. JinAo is high regarded in China and offers an independent, reliable, and internationally recognised testing service to companies that import or export from China. JSIC is responsible for testing in China for the Chinese Government and is a member of Interwoollabs.

Craig Wales

It has accreditation from China National Accreditation Authority (CNAS). A skilled team of trained technicians carry out tests to a range of international standards such as AS/NZS, ASTM, AATCC, CEN, JIS, ISO and BS. ‘JinAo is all about avoiding trading risks. This can be achieved by testing materials and ensuring that they comply with customs and import laws and regulations of the country of destination’, says Mr Wales. ‘Companies around the world can

test their products in Australia or in China, having confidence that the results and certificates will be both accurate and accepted by your business partners and clients in China and globally’. JinAo tests a wide variety of commodities including textiles, fibres, textile fabrics, chemical products, minerals, building materials, toys, ceramics and environmental testing. ‘While the initial focus of the joint venture has been on textile related materials and products a plan has been prepared for entry into the testing of advanced building products, safety equipment, flammability and automotive component testing’, commented Mr Wales. ‘We are also undertaking more international testing in the area of product compliance for pesticides, azo dyes ,heavy metals and more. JinAo is located in Nanjing. ‘CIQ has over 350 laboratories in China’, says Mr Wang, Manager at JinAo China, ‘and we are able to use their facilities. The laboratories are all well equipped with trained staff and well earned credibility’. ‘Our testing services are conducted with due professional care and skill, and in accordance with CNAS accreditation where applicable’, says Mr Wang. ‘At JinAo we provide a base for reputable, reliable and independent testing of Chinese products and imported raw materials and components, before shipment. ‘We offer an inspection service that works for our clients. The service is quick, sometimes the turnaround can be as little as 48 hours and it is very competitively priced,’ concluded Mr Wang.

JinAo is equipped with experienced staff & the latest testing equipment to test a variety of materials 154 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

For more information please contact Craig Wales at craig.wales@awta.com.au www.awta.com.au

WOOL TESTING

WOOL TESTING WOOL TESTING AUTHORITY AUTHORITY EUROPE EUROPE

Attract new buyers provide your customers with WTAE Certification Long time buyers and seller of wool rely heavily on wool testing certification. They know that certainty and certification of every bale of wool is beneficial to all.

Wool Testing Authority Europe Ltd Unit 7, Lon Barcud, Wool Authority CibynTesting Industrial Estate Europe Ltd Unit 7, Lon Barcud, Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 2BD Cibyn UnitedIndustrial Kingdom Estate Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 2BD Tel: +44 (0) 1286 678 097 United Kingdom Fax: +44 (0) 1286 678 039 Tel: +44 (0) 1286 678 097 email : info@wtaeurope.com Fax: +44 (0) 1286 678 039 wtaeurope.com email : info@wtaeurope.com wtaeurope.com

Tim Parkes, General Manager at Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE).

ool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE) provides both parties with a good understanding of each bale of wool, its key characteristics and how it will perform in processing. Certainty provides a buyer with confidence, saves time and misunderstanding. It will open new markets and attract new buyers for exporters of European greasy wool - where certification is expected. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Clean wool yield varies considerably depending on wool type, quality of grading or classification and geographical origin. To know the quantity of clean wool which can be obtained from a greasy shipment is important for both commercial and processing reasonsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, says Tim Parkes, Managing Director at WTAE.

Accredited to ISO 17025:2005 by United Kingdom Accreditation Service (UKAS). Accredited to ISO 17025:2005 by InternationalWool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Licensed. United Accreditation Service (UKAS). MemberKingdom of the Independent Laboratories Round Trial (ILRT) InternationalWool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Licensed. group of laboratories the Independent Laboratories Round Trial (ILRT) Member of Interwoollabs. group of laboratories Member of Interwoollabs. 156 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

This is why it is recommended to have wool tested. If a processor is confident of processing performance he will be more willing to pay a premium. Exporters who test their wool can provide these assurances and will generally get better prices than those that do not. WTAE is an IWTO Licensed laboratory and provides certified results with accurate assessments of yield to assist the wool purchaser and processor. The company operates from locations in Caernarfon, North Wales, Bradford,

WOOL TESTING

West Yorkshire and has an extensive sampling capability across Europe. It provides an objective, cost effective wool testing service to providers and users of wool throughout the Northern Hemisphere and the rest of the World, ensuring both independence and integrity of wool certification. The laboratory is fully equipped to carry out tests for the accurate and reliable measurement of an extensive range of wool characteristics and the prediction of processing performance. WTAE core tests greasy wool for yield including Vegetable Matter (VM), Fibre Diameter and Colour. Scoured wool and wool tops can be tested for Conditioned Weight (Regain & Moisture Content), Yield including Vegetable Matter (VM), Fibre Diameter, Colour and Residual

Grease. Fleece Measurement is available for Fibre Diameter, Staple Length, Washing Yield, and Colour. ‘We use a series of analytical techniques to firstly determine the quantity of clean dry wool fibre in a shipment of greasy wool. “Wool Base” is the amount of oven dry fibre cleaned from all impurities like dirt, mineral material, vegetable matter and grease’. In addition to Wool Base, WTAE Certificates show “Calculated Commercial Yields”. There are a number of different calculated commercial yields which can be shown on the certificate depending on customer requirements. The two commercial yields usually requested are “IWTO Scoured Yield at 16% Regain” and IWTO Schlumberger Dry.

IWTO Scoured Yield at 16% Regain is the Wool Base and Vegetable Matter Base plus 16% Moisture Regain expressed as a percentage of 100% minus a small allowance for VM Residual Mineral Material and Grease. IWTO Schlumberger Dry also predicts the amount of Top and Noil which can be combed from the shipment. Processing fibre losses are generally higher in percentage for European Wool then wools from the Southern Hemisphere. This is important to understand when selling or buying wools from Europe. For information about how your wool can be tested please contact Tim Parkes at WTAE tim.parkes@wtaeurope.com or info@wtaeurope.com Telephone 0044 (0) 1286678097.

Are you looking for more customers?

rrespective of how successful your business is today communicating with new buyers is important to staying ahead of your competition. It is also important to constantly remind your existing customers that continuing to buy from you, not your competitor, is a benefit to them as well. If telling 5000 companies around the world about what your company can offer sounds like an impossible task - advertise in WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL and reach them all. WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL magazine is circulated to buyers in more than 40 countries

worldwide including Eastern and Western Europe, the UK, USA, South America, India and Australasia. WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL is a trade directory that is published once each year (September). It is circulation to 5000 textile companies including importers of wool and speciality fibres, wool processors and topmakers, manufacturers of yarn, carpets and rugs, spinners and weavers, cloth and garment manufacturers including major brand names and major retail chains. Many of these companies keep this publication and refer to it for their purchasing decisions over the coming year. The next issue of WOOL

TRADE INTERNATIONAL will be published in September 2013. Companies wishing to see the latest issue and find out more about advertising opportunities and costs should contact the Editor, Victor Chesky by email at victorch@bigpond.com.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL is an English language publication. Circulation 5000 in over 40 countries worldwide including Western Europe: Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Eastern Europe: Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Georgia, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Romania, and Russia. Australia, India, Iran, Japan, Nepal, South Korea, Pakistan, New Zealand and South Africa. South America: Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Columbia, Mongolia, Peru, and Uruguay. Mexico, Turkey, UK, USA and more. Published by ITP Postal Address: PO Box 11, Caulfield South, Melbourne, Victoria, AUSTRALIA Tel. 61 3 9533 0627, Fax 61 3 9533 0727 www.woolnews.net

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 157

WOOL TESTING

Wool Testing Bureau South Africa introduces electronic certificates

he Wool Testing Bureau S.A. (WTB) will be introducing Electronic Certificates in the 2012/2013 season. The documents

will be available as encrypted and digitally signed PDF files. WTB will also be introducing an Online Verification facility to allow legitimate owners of WTB Electronic Certificates to verify the authenticity of the documents. The online verification service is available at http://verify.wtbsa.co.za. The user

158 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

they purchase. The use of electronic documents simplifies delivery of Certificates, while the digital security features protect Certificates against fraudulent activities. The introduction of Electronic Certificates has provided an opportunity to slightly change the design of the Certificate. The information contained in the document remains unchanged, while the font in the header of the

enters the Certificate Number, the

Certificate has been updated. Clients

Online Verification Code and their

using WTB Certificates should be

email address to request verification.

aware of this cosmetic change. An

Once the request has been validated,

example of the document is included

a copy of the Electronic Certificate

below.

will be returned to the user by email. Wian Heath General Manger Wool Testing Bureau South Africa

with confidence in the product that

For more information, kindly contact

These services are designed to

the Wool Testing Bureau S.A. at

provide users of WTB certificates

enquiries@wtbsa.co.za.

WOOL TESTING

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 159

WOOL TESTING

SGS NZ tests 10.7 µm bale SGS independently measures greasy wool to verify quality and quantity across different criteria. It also provides a range of independent laboratory tests on scoured wool, as well as on-farm and laboratory-based sampling and testing services that help wool traders, farmers and processors to make betterinformed decisions.

ompanies that need to be sure about the veracity of the wool they buy and sell, go to SGS NZ for testing, says Jeremy Wear Wool Testing Manager at SGS New Zealand. SGS NZ provides industry leading inspection, verification, testing and certification services. ‘In recent years we have become more involved in on-farm sampling and testing. One particular relationship we have developed with the

160 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Emmerson’s Forest Range Station in the Canterbury region of the South Island has yielded very exciting results’, says Mr Wear. SGS Wool Testing Services have been carrying out fleece testing for the Emerson family for over 20 years. Russell Emmerson’s Forest Range Station has been breeding continually finer over this period, and of late, his daughter Anna has been selecting from this flock for her own shedded sheep enterprise. ‘Through meticulous animal management, complete measurement, and nutrition control, Anna has produced the finest bale of wool we have ever measured”, says Mr Wear. With objective measurement having always been a central part of the flock

WOOL TESTING

management for Russell Emmerson, and with his encouragement, SGS has always put as much emphasis on quality systems in this part of their business as they do in their IWTO certification services. ‘SGS obtained ISO 17025 accreditation for their laboratory fleece testing operations in 1996. This was the 1st and probably only fleece testing laboratory in the world to achieve this standard’. ‘To respond to the growing demand for on-farm individual animal testing, our trained operators work on-site at shearing or pre-shearing. We operate under tightly-controlled conditions, we get the measurements to clients for flock improvement or objective classing using a highly-maintained fleet of portable OFDA2000 length-diameter instrument. We also provide laboratory fleece testing as an independent service, giving growers the data required to select animals for culling or breeding. Growers and breeders simply send in fleece samples selected from individual animals for example sheep, goats and alpaca, and we turn the results around quickly and costeffectively’. ‘We pay particular attention to ensuring that results from fleece testing match as closely as possible with core test results at certification. All our diameter measurement systems are validated as a group just prior to the fleece testing season, and this also includes all the on-farm OFDA2000 instruments’, says Mr Wear. At the ultrafine diameters that the Emmerson’s work with, 0.1 µm error can have major consequences. In addition to the Interwoollabs standards, SGS uses 13 and 15 micron validation tops specially sourced from Italy and measured at a number of internationally-accredited laboratories.

Anna Emmerson with 10.67 micron bale

‘We aim to have all our merino measurement systems agreeing within ±0.1 µm down at the ultrafine level, and any instruments that fall outside this range are recalibrated. This is 3 times tighter than the Interwoollabs limits’.

the diameter results will be either identical or extremely close to the predicted value based on the fleece results. This year her finest bale, assembled from 115 2-tooth fleeces, certified at 10.7 µm, was within 0.1 µm of the expected result.

During the merino season, SGS routinely use groups of 20 merino core samples to monitor agreement between all aspects of the fleece testing and certification systems.

‘These same systems are used for all individual animal fibre measurements – not just on wool, but alpaca, mohair and cashmere samples sent to us from all over the world’ says Mr Wear.

These protocols allow clients such as Anna Emmerson to select fleeces secure in the knowledge that when the bales are cored for certification, there will be no surprises, and

For more information about your wool testing needs contact Jeremy Wear in Wellington NZ: Jeremy.Wear@sgs.com Tel: + 64 4 387 8565 Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 161

URUGUAY

Uruguay Wool Industry in Review by Roberto Cardellino and José Trifoglio

In spite of the international financial crisis, there was an increase of 5.7% in GPD with a increase of 18,1% in total exports, compared to 2010. GDP values were 8.5% in 2010 and 2.6% in 2009. Inflation rate was 8.0% while unemployment reduced at 6.2%. GDP forecasts for the present year range between 3.5 and 4.5%.

he positive indicators during 2011 were the result of a very stable economic situation in the country, good level of monetary reserves, and low budget deficit.

It is estimated that sheep numbers will have a small increase during 2012, probably to 7.5-8 million.

There does not seem to be a very marked swing from sheep producers from traditional dual purpose systems to more sheep meat orientated production systems, even though there have been extremely good prices for lambs and mutton during 2011 and the beginning of this year. At present there has been a reduction in lamb prices, due to a softening of the Brazilian demand.

The greatest reductions were observed in the wether’s category (-20%), but

On the other hand there continued a huge demand for cropping land

Exportations of wool and wool products (in U$S) reached 2.8 of total country exports during 2011. Sheep numbers decreased from 7.7 million in June 2010 to 7.47 million at June 2011 (see fig 1) From left to right: Roberto Cardellino and José Trifoglio

also in the breeding ewes’ category (-9.3%) and ewe hogget replacements (-9.1%), which is not a positive signal for the future.

Fig. 1 Sheep population and wool production

Total wool production in the 2011/12 season is estimated by SUL at 32 million kg (greasy basis), approximately 21.5 million kg clean. 162 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

URUGUAY

during 2011 and the beginning of 2012. Wool prices for corriedale (29Âľ) and merino (21,5Âľ) wools decreased during 2012 following the general trend of the international market. At the beginning of fall in prices, producers were reluctant to sell waiting for a recovery of the markets. But this did not happen, and stocks in the hands of woolgrowers are very small. The absence of China in the market of greasy wools and wool tops during this year, plus the very scarce participation of Europe in the marked have been the cause of severe drops in prices to the producers. For several months, the internal wool market has remained practically inactive, with local top-makers and wools exporters not meeting the prices demanded by the producers. At present the situation continues with the same characteristics, expecting that the Chinese and European market show renowned interest in buying wool after the Australian market break and the European holydays. Present prices are well above historical averages either for corriedale (28-30 mic) as well as merino wools (19-22 mic) Exports of raw wool and wool tops in the 2011/12 season (Jul-Jun) decreased a total volume of 42 mkg (greasy basis) which represent a 25,4% decrease compared to the 2010/11 season (56,3 mkg.) In terms of volume, (see Fig. 2), the exports of wool tops represented 67.9% of the total, greasy wools 17.4% and scoured wools 14.8%. The volumes of greasy and scoured wools exported during 2011/12 were also reduced. Early processing (wool tops) still constitutes the more important sector of the Uruguayan wool industry, with 5 combing plants operating

at present. The average exports of the previous 10 years showed that Uruguay has exported about 57 mkg, of which 72,5% were of wool tops, 15,4% of greasy wool and 12,2 of scoured. Uruguay exported during 2011/12 season (July-June) a total of 18,1 mkg. of wool tops, 22,6% less than the previous year. Nevertheless, Uruguay is the second largest exporter of wool tops in the world, after China. In terms of value, exports of wool and wool products in the 2011/12 season totalled U$S 279 million, 2,2% more than the previous season, due to the increased value of wool. Wool exported as tops represented 62.5 % of total value of wool exports, followed by greasy wool (14,3%) and scoured wool (11,7 %). China, Germany and Italy accounted for nearly 58 % of total wool exports, the remainder is distributed to over 50 destinations. Most of the greasy wool is exported to China (81% of total), but India is increasing purchases, year after year. Regarding the exports of wool tops, the situation remains the same, with

Source: Delta Consultants based on DNA/CMPP

China as the main individual market (26,7%), followed by Germany (17%) and Italy (16,7%). The main issues facing the Uruguayan Wool Industry include; mixed livestock farmers (beef and sheep) continue to perceive better returns for alternative farming enterprises which puts pressure on the present sheep population; internal wool prices in Uruguay are at present higher than long term averages; over time Uruguayan wool growers have aimed to produce finer mid-micron type wools, as well as fat lambs (dual purpose with finer wool); and Merino wool growers with fine wool producing programs are still in operation aiming at producing finer wools (less than 20 microns) of good strength and colour (at present = 1.5 mkg greasy).

For further information, please contact us Delta Consultants Luis de la Torre 488 Montevideo 11.300 Uruguay e-mail: rocar@delta-animalproduction.com website: www.delta-animalproduction.com Phone: 598 2 710 0708 Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 163

URUGUAY

Lanas Trinidad environmental credentials on top Pedro Otegui, Managing Director at Lanas Trinidad

Uruguayan top makers must compete internationally in quality and price as well as in animal welfare and environmental issues. Today Uruguayan wool top makers adhere to high quality animal welfare, and employ high environmental standards, and are still internationally competitive according to Pedro Otegui Managing Director of Lanas Trinidad. ‘Environmental credentials and reducing the carbon footprint should not be a deterrent to selling competitively priced wool tops. Our production is sustainable and complies with local and international environment laws’, says Mr Otegui.

T Lanas Trinidad treats water after processing for use in irrigation for local agriculture

his year Lanas Trinidad, the biggest top maker in Uruguay has a capacity to process 12 million kgs of wool tops in the range of 16.5 – 32 microns annually. Its plant located in Trinidad uses the most advanced top making machinery available for scouring and combing processes. Additionally, some 500 tons of wool grease is

extracted for the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry. Production processes are constantly monitored and controlled electronically using specially designed computer programs, ensuring the highest efficiency levels. The combed wool laboratory is a member of Interwoollabs, ensuring high quality parameters are maintained. The Company has certification in ISO/IEC 17025:2005, INTERWOOL LABS, IQNet and OQS, ISO 9001-2008 as well as IMO/GOTS, the certification for organic wool industrialization and ISO 14000 for environmental management and OHSAS 18000 for occupational safety. Combed wool tops are also Oeko-tex Standard 100 certified and comply with REACH (European Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemical Substances) requirements. Uruguay is also free from mulesing and the natural and unpolluted farm lands continue to produce high quality wool.

164 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

URUGUAY

anas Trinidad specialises in exporting mid range wool tops but has seen a substantial increase in the demand for luxury tops to buyers in China and Europe. ‘Other top makers export greasy and scoured wool, we only export wool tops so all our resources are concentrated into making the best quality tops for the best possible price’. ‘We encourage the production of fine and super fine wool by rewarding local farmers whose production quality is outstanding. If the quality is the same as Australian wool then the price we pay to our farmers is the same as farmers in Australia receive for their wool. We are convinced that it is fundamental to work together to

obtain a high quality product to make it competitive at the world level’, says Mr Otegui. Uruguay is one of the few countries where wool production is on the increase. Using old traditions together with a new and dynamic working model, Lanas Trinidad supplies customers in China, Eastern and Western Europe, South Korea, Japan, United Kingdom, and South America. ‘Wool is definitely coming back into fashion. We are also aware that consumers are concerned about where their garment has come from and what fibre it is made from. This is good, it makes the processor more accountable’. Mr Otegui also notes that there is an increased use of wool

in cooling and heating equipment, more sophisticated insulation materials are being used and these technical applications for the use of wool, rather than other fibres, is also increasing demand. Mr Otegui is optimistic about the future demand for tops. Uruguayan companies are well positioned to take advantage of this demand because of good environmental credentials and wool tops that meet the maximum high quality. For more information about Lanas Trinidad – Email: CwUruguay@wtp.com.uy www.lanastrinidad.com Tel: 598-26061819/26010024 Fax: 598-26060032

Ulana – selling Uruguayan wool ‘World wool production has been decreasing in recent years’, says Carlos Diaz company president at Ulana. ‘Uruguay is no exception. Its wool production has been declining to 25,000 tonnes in 2011-12. Wool production for 2012 - 2013 is expected to be at a similar quantity’.

ccording to Mr Diaz, searching for the right wool can be a challenge. But Uruguayan wool, known and valued the world over for its good staple length, low vegetable matter content, no chemical contamination and low coloured fibre content will continue to be in demand in the future. ‘We have an excellent knowledge in Uruguayan and South American wool types. Our motto is “We deliver what you need” ’, says Mr Diaz, who has more than 40 years experience working in the Uruguayan wool industry. ‘We are a family business and our customers around the world appreciate the personal service we provide’.

U Carlos, Ignacio and Maria Diaz 166 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

lana Wool Exporters sells mainly greasy wool, all type of fleeces, pieces and bellies, lambs wools, black brown wools and blending or cheaper types that buyers

URUGUAY

can request. This family business is managed by Mr Diaz together with his son Ignacio and daughter Maria. It exported over 2.5 million kgs of Uruguayan and South American wools during the last season and sources its wool direct from farms. Ulana warehouse is located very near to Montevideo where wool is core tested by Laboratorio Tecnológico del Uruguay (LATU) prior to export. ‘Business has been increasing from year to year. We export 70% superfine merino - between 17.5 - 24.5 microns and 30% crossbred wools. The wool has been of good quality in part due to the introduction of genetics’, says Mr Diaz.

here has been strong evidence that the work undertaken in genetics in Uruguayan wool breeds has been good, particularly in regard to merino. Good sanitary condition for animals has also helped

result in improved colour, length, strength and clean quality wool. ‘Our main export destination is China. The second biggest export market for us is India, followed by Europe’. Mr Diaz travels extensively and is always available for consultation and advice on the best use of Uruguayan wools.

The wool business changes from year to year says Ignacio Diaz -‘We see that wool buyers around the world are looking for consistency, good prices and good service, and we can definitely satisfy any changing needs of our wool buying customers’. Please contact Carlos Diaz or Ignacio Diaz at ulana@ulana.com.uy

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 167

URUGUAY

Estancias Puppo S.A. Secure supply from wool shed to the World market “We are very particular about contracts. If a customer order specification is for 21 microns super choice fleece, then this is what he will get. Personal service is paramount. Our customers are dealing with the person who grows the wool, we manage the traceability of each wool lot; the producers and every lot are identified to ensure our customers the possibility of a feedback.”

uying directly from the wool grower has many advantages, according to D´jalma Puppo, Managing Director of the family company Estancias Puppo S.A. “Our existing customers appreciate that the wool they receive comes directly from our farms located in one of the best growing wool regions of Uruguay. There is no intermediary. We control the process from farm animal to export product”.-

D’Jalma Puppo and Margarita Cortabarría of Estancia Puppo SA

Exports have doubled in volume in recent years for Estancias Puppo. The main export markets are China, India

and Europe in greasy wool from 19 – 24 microns. Estancias Puppo can achieve larger volumes of wool by collecting and processing wool from other farms that adopt its same quality process. “Because we are producers ourselves, we know the other producers from whom we buy directly in order to fulfil larger orders and participate in the international market in larger volumes, thus achieving more competitive prices” says Mr Puppo, who also emphasizes that he is happy to deal with customers both big and small. The wool can be scoured or re-baled depending on buyer requirement. Our knowledge and direct communication with other farmers ensure that we can guarantee that there is no blending of different categories. “We do not blend, and the producers we buy from do not blend either, our priority is offering quality” says Mr. Puppo. “We manage each phase of wool production. Every step of the process is monitored, from sheep grazing and nutrition to genetic programming. We carefully select female hoggets and rams for mating to ensure top quality wool”. Mr Puppo runs one of the largest beef cattle and wool growing operation in Uruguay and is an agricultural engineer specialised in the production of livestock and wool.

168 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

URUGUAY

“Our wool has a diameter range of 21 to 24 microns, Vegetable Matter 0,1% and average Schlumberger dry yield of 80%, no coloured or dark fibres, and no contaminants of any kind” , states Mr Puppo. The company has its own shearing team, trained in shearing and sorting according to the code of practice laid out by SUL, (Uruguayan Wool Secretariat). Estancias Puppo was the first company to receive the “green label” by SUL. The green label is a mark of distinction in shearing and sorting of wool. The sorted wool is classified into different fleece quality types (AAA, AA, etc) and inferior categories such as pieces, bellies, locks and crutchings are separated. “Companies that purchase our wool appreciate the quality of our clip and demand for wool is on the increase” says Mr. Puppo. “Buyers from China, Europe and India have already come to visit us. All of them have been

positively impressed with what they have seen and we are looking forward to welcoming other buyers who are interested in visiting our beautiful countryside and buying our fine wool”, concludes Mr. Puppo.

For more information please contact Ing. Agr. Margarita Cortabarria at exportaciones@estanciaspuppo.com Tel: +598 2 7075614 www.estanciaspuppo.com

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 169

URUGUAY

Environmental sustainability & innovation from Engraw Engraw has been leading the way for innovation in Uruguayan wool top production for many years. It was one of the first companies to introduce shrink proof wool tops to buyers seeking quality material for their top end fabrics in Europe and it is still today the only company producing superwash treated wooltops in South America.

oday Engraw also leads the way in environmental sustainability and innovation. It has installed a wind turbine to generate the electricity necessary for its wool top production.

are very proud and pleased to have become Pioneer Associate members of WindMade™’. WindMade™ is the world´s first global consumer label which identifies companies, events and products using windpower.

‘We believe that a renewable fibre such as wool deserves to be processed using renewable energy’, says Frank Raquet, President at Engraw S.A. ‘We

‘We are very proud of our investment in the Vestas 1.8 MW wind turbine’, says Mr Raquet. Engraw has implemented different programs that ensure world top quality products. All processes are designed to ensure maximum production, using the minimum resources possible. ‘Energy is one such resource. That is why the wind mill is so important to our business model. It is capable of providing 70% of the energy we require. We are proud to have been a leader in promoting this innovative venture in Uruguay. This and other efficiency programs introduced over the last years make Engraw products very cost competitive’.

Frank Raquet, President at Engraw S.A.

Founded in 1951 Engraw SA combines the experience and tradition of a family business with the

170 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

flexibility and dynamism of a modern company. ‘Our company is the second biggest producer and exporter of combed wool tops in Uruguay. We have annual sales of over 50 million dollars and our products are exported to some of the most demanding markets in the world’. The company wool top range includes premium types, super types, standard types, and other types including grey and brown coloured types. It also offers scoured wools and first noils from 18 - 27 microns. ‘We have been selling our wool tops to European customers for more than 60 years and they are familiar with our premium brand Blanco Real. Our aim was to offer a premium wooltop with low in dark and coloured fibre content and we have successfully achieved this. Our Blanco Real Type is well suited to customers using pastel shades in their production. Our customers also appreciate the strong resistance and good length which enables them to increase the

ENGRAW

EXPORT & IMPORT CO. S.A.

URUGUAY

speed and efficiency of their spinning frames’.

As with energy efficiency and

Engraw has been supplying its European customers with superwash treated wool top for some years and has recently installed its own Hercosett super wash plant, fully equipped with CMT machinery. The company also has a strong greasy wool purchasing network. It has nurtured and maintained close relationships with growers throughout Uruguay. ‘We work closely with local growers to obtain the best quality farm lots available in our country’. The company also imports greasy wools from New Zealand, Australia, Argentina and Chile which are scoured and combed in its own mill in Uruguay.

is focused on quality control. ‘We

environmental responsibility Engraw supply our products to international markets that demand quality and delivery to their precise instructions. Our environmental credentials are excellent. We have eliminated environmental problems at every stage of our production process. Our factory is rurally located outside Montevideo and is surrounded by 100 hectares of forested land. This has enabled us to apply natural effluent treatment methods. All factory liquid and solid effluents are treated to reach the high standards demanded by government authorities.

Engraw is Oeko-Tex certified and it also operates a fully equipped laboratory . It also often cross-checks its results with SUL and LATU local laboratories. Engraw exports its production to more than 20 different international destinations and keeps stock lots in Europe and Montevideo for immediate delivery. ‘We offer our customers a personalised service, producing the best product for each individual client and their specific needs.’ For more information about the products and services offered by Engraw please email engraw@engraw.com.uy Tel. + 598 2622 4980

Trusted name, new beginning for Lanasur Lanasur is a well known Uruguayan wool top exporter. It has recently restructured its management team and redesigned its plant facilities. ‘Our combing plant is now running at full capacity again’, says Rafael Gari joint director at Lanasur, ‘and we are happy to have regained our traditional market position.’ Rafael Gari

anasur is now managed by

modern layout by bringing all textile

Juan, Rafael and Cecilia Gari. It

machinery into one building for a

has been operating in Uruguay

more streamlined process from start

for almost 70 years and is one of

to finish. This improvement will

the country’s oldest wool export

make our plant more productive and

companies. Its processing plant

lower overall production costs’ says

is located 40 minutes drive from

Juan Gari joint Managing Director.

Montevideo.

172 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

Lanasur is also investing in

Lanasur has invested in a change to

developing its Industrial Park

the layout of its combing facility.

facilities. ‘We have a number of

‘We have taken the opportunity to

buildings that will not be needed

restructure the plant and to create a

for wool production. This will be

URUGUAY

redeveloped into a modern industrial park facility with other companies leasing these buildings for their own business use.’ ‘We source 85-90% of local Uruguayan wool, however the company also imports from Argentina, Chile, Australia and New Zealand’, said Mr Gari. Approximately 97% of Lanasur’s production is exported. Fine wool top is combed for high-end markets from 19-25 micron Merino and Polwarth wools. The company has the capacity to produce 6,000 tonnes of wool top per year. ‘We are known by our clients to fulfil large volume orders, while retaining our consistent quality. This is very important to our buyers. We deliver on time and strictly as per client specification. We have been exporting our product for many years and we are very familiar with the requirements of our clients around the world, and of course our prices are very competitive. A good quality product and prompt reliable customer service is the key to our successful business operation’, says Mr Gari. ‘Our newly restructured plant will enable us to deliver even better results for our customers’. For more information about Lanasur and its products please contact Rafael Gari at lanasur@lanasur.com.uy

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 173

URUGUAY

The best Uruguayan wool from Thomas Morton ‘Good wool and strong connections with farmers in Uruguay and neighbouring countries has been the hallmark of our wool export business’, says Malcolm Morton, Director at Thomas Morton SA.

he rapid increase in wool prices worldwide, and a tightening of wool supply has seen Uruguayan wool in greater demand from wool processors around the world.

174 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

micron super fine wools to 30 and more micron wools. The Uruguayan wool industry has excellent animal health and welfare conditions that guarantee excellent quality wool

‘We do export greasy and scoured wool worldwide, but China is a main destination for our greasy wool and Europe takes the bulk of our scoured wools’, says Mr Morton.

with a variety of types for a variety of

homas Morton S.A. is a family company trading in greasy and scoured wool from Uruguay. ‘We have excellent connections in Brazil and Argentina and good and regular contact with practically all wool consuming countries’.

and sell that only an uninterrupted

‘We can supply our customers with all types of Uruguayan wool as well as wool from other South American countries. We control all stages of wool for sorting that is brought to us from farms or from wool brokers. This ensures that quality control is assured and we can deliver to our clients the wool they specify’.

Malcolm Morton at his office in Montevideo

in a wide product range from 15

ool production in Uruguay is stable and the wool good. Uruguayan wool is available

applications. ‘We personally value each lot. We have an understanding and knowledge about the wool we buy chain of involvement and long experience can bring’.

ll wools can be tested by Laboratorio Tecnologico del Uruguay (LATU) an accredited

and internationally recognised testing house. ‘We welcome enquiries from companies looking to buy the very good style wools we can offer. Our policy is to offer flexibility in order to fulfil orders from all buyers at all times’, concluded Mr Morton. For more information about this company please contact Thomas Morton SA at tmorton@adinet.com. uy Tel. 598 2 924 4158

URUGUAY

Rantex leading in greasy wool exports Rantex continues to lead the way in greasy wool exports from Uruguay.’ Over 51% of all greasy wool exports from Uruguay come from us’, says Richard Seizer. Rantex is managed by Richard Seizer and sons Alejandro and Maximiliano. Richard Seizer is also the current President of the Uruguay Wool Exporters & Scourers Association.

days, but is certainly appreciated by our clients’, says Mr Seizer. Rantex can class and press pack around 50 tons of greasy wool per day. ‘We meet the requirements of each individual client, whether they require greasy or scoured wool’. The company scouring plant is located on the same site as the warehouse. It has a daily production of 35/40 tons of greasy wool. It can scour 30 tons of wool in a 24 hour period. ‘We have a quick service with a quick turnaround. Over the years we have built a reputation for personal service, quality products and an extensive knowledge of Uruguayan wool’, says Mr Seizer. Mindful of the plants’ environmental impact Rantex complies with effluent treatment according to Uruguayan regulations. Rantex recently installed a grease

Richard Seizer (centre) and sons Alejandro and Maximiliano at the office in Montevideo

he company buys direct from farmers and consignee houses through its collecting warehouse based just outside Montevideo. It classifies the wool fleece by fleece. The result is grading by style and micron in a wide range. The micron achieved is between 20.0

extraction facility, adding wool grease to its list of its exports.

to a maximum medium crossbred at

Rantex has an established clientele

33 – 35 microns.

in Europe as well as China and other

‘We handle the wools in our 6.600

the world. ‘We welcome inquiries

wool consuming countries around

m2 warehouse; we classify and sort

from companies interested in buying

according to the requirements of our

Uruguayan wools. Please contact us at

clients. This individual approach is

RANTEX’, says Mr Seizer.

something that is not so usual these

wool@rantex.com.uy

Leading and Reliable Exporter of Greasy and Scoured Wool from Uruguay

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012 | 175

URUGUAY

Record sales of scoured wool for Uruguayan exporter Tops Fray Marcos is mainly well known around the world as a wool tops exporter, but permanent investments in scouring machinery has made it the largest scouring exporter from Uruguay last season accounting for 75% of total scoured wool exports. ‘We have exported 3 million kilos of scoured wool to the international market during last season’, says Martín Pérez del Castillo, President of Tops Fray Marcos S.A. ‘We exported 75% of all scoured wool from Uruguay’. Various changes to scouring restrictions are being implemented all over the world, a consequence being increasing operational costs in countries where scouring effluent management had not been seen as a mayor issue in the past. According to Facundo Ruvira, Commercial Director at Tops Fray Marcos, these changes have favoured clients that import scoured wool than greasy. The new company mill is located 50 km outside Montevideo and has an output capacity of 5 million kg in

wool tops and a total scoured capacity of 14 million kilos. ‘We needed to move to larger facilities because of the increased volume in our scoured wool and top production’, says Mr Ruvira. ‘This new location has improved our ability to supply clients with bigger quantities and an even better quality’. Tops Fray Marcos produces wooltops from 19 – 34 microns and offers scoured wool in super fleeces, bellies and lambs, as well as noils from 17 – 29 microns. It has been exporting tops as well as scoured wool in all microns for more than 20 years and all products are tested and certified by LATU. Within its scoured wools there is a business line oriented to supply the woollen industry. Despite this new focus in the scouring business, traditional customers for greasy are being supplied as usual. Tops Fray Marcos carries Oekotex Certification for its products and has also increased its environmental credentials. A wind turbine that will produce 85% of the electricity needed and will be operational in 2013. This will help to reduced the carbon footprint and further, enhance the positive impact that the company has made on the environment in operating an effluent plant and planting 60 hectares of forestry.

176 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

‘We have been employing new and dynamic staff and the average age of our management has dropped from 52 to 35 years’, says Mr Nicolas Perez del Castillo. ‘We have also been investment in training. We have brought engineers from NSC in France and Italy to teach new staff and there is a definite feeling of excitement at the new plant’. Uruguayan wool tops are recognised by users in the mid micron sector and used extensively for knitwear, hand knitted yarn, and quality upholstery fabrics. ‘If you are a manufacturer of upholstery, felting or tweed please contact us because we can satisfy your requirements’, Nicolas Perez del Castillo continues. Tops Fray Marcos sources its wool from all over Uruguayan. Five quality grades are available, giving customers the opportunity to choose the wool most appropriate to their quality and price concerns. ‘Our customers see us as a reliable and permanent supplier. We are totally committed to establish lasting business relationships that can be sustained in both good times and in bad times’, says its president who is very well known in China as “Martin”. ‘Clients know they will get consistent quality year after year, and always, at a competitive price. Wool buyers are welcome to contact us. They can be assured that we will do our best to satisfy their requirements in greasy and scoured wool and tops’. Tops Fray Marcos S.A. Tel: +598 2606 2222 Fax: +598 2606 1722 Email: tops@tops.com.uy

TOPS

Fray Marcos s.a.

remer B

Wollhandelskontor GmbH