BLOOM ISSUE 1 SPRING SUMMER 2013
NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK The Best of Leeds Independent Designers WHO’S THAT GIRL? One girl. Two looks. LEADING THE AMARDA Eleanor Snare Talks Flagship Stores
IN BLOOM BLOOM seeks to inspire and influence. Encapsulating all that is Leeds, as a culturally striking and incredibly creative city. Celebrating the young, bright and individual, the students, the ‘hipsters’, the uniques, the innovative, the confident and the cool the creative minds of the people that make this city amazing.
www.mayors.uk.com
NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK the very best of Leeds independent designers
A
LESSANDRA BERSAN DESIGNER PROFILE
An Italian Fashion Designer, co-founder and owner of the new Maison brand ‘Mayors’, has travelled the globe having returned back to Leeds to finally fulfill an ambition to establish her very own brand. Alessandra speaks about her inspirations, influences and loves in life.
What drove you to achieve a career in the fashion industry? I’ve always had a keen interest in fashion, even from a very young age. My Italian grandmother was a Paris based silk painter in her day, and she took me to her first exhibition at age of 2, by my 3rd birthday she had brushes in my hand and I always remember sketching around in her home based studio as a child. She has so much talent which was a massive inspiration for me, my family helped nurture it and so it just seemed like a natural progression.
‘You have to give it your all but the satisfaction you get when you see your imagined designs finally finished in all their glory, it’s so fulfilling that nothing else quite compares.’
Who are your influences in life? The 1950’s by far is my favourite era, it’s a huge source for inspiration for me and the flavour of the time period can be felt in most of my collections. Some of my most beloved icons had their best moments during this golden period, stars such as Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Sofia Loren. Ladies with the most impeccable taste and style, I always have them in the forefront of my mind whilst designing. With my background I think I have developed Parisian mind-set as Paris is a place I feel deeply connected to. Certain songs, of the likes of Edith Piaf, always bring me back to that period of my life and usually put me in a calm and creative state of mind. What inspires you in life/career? Music, movies and travel are my main sources of inspiration and it’s hard to choose a particular genre that links them all as my tastes are very diverse and eclectic. They swing from old musicals and jazz to AC/DC, Led Zeppelin to movies ranging from “Roman holidays” and Italian black and white films to more thriller based movies. It depends on my state of mind on any given day, as my inspirations are like me, they never have plans and we always have to adjust accordingly. What kind of girl do you imagine will wear your designs? I always imagine the person to wear my designs to be confident, elegant, sexy and feminine, someone who feels comfortable with her own body. I respect the kind of girl that thinks that there is no such thing as being overdressed, one that every day when she looks in the mirror she thinks and feels gorgeous!
What are your hopes for the future, in terms of your brand/career? I hope that within the current designers that are now finding their way into the industry, there’s a spot for our brand Mayors too. Through relentless love and nurturing it’s growing a little bit with every passing day and we’re taking it a step at a time. The aim is to get the brand out there and making it accessible to likeminded people, through selling online and then maybe featuring signature collections in Harvey Nichols for example! We’re setting the bar high but it would be a dream come true and definitely something to aim for. What advice would you give someone hoping to achieve a career in the fashion industry? I would say that if you really love it, if you feel the need and are prepared to work extremely hard, then to go for it!! You have to give it your all but the satisfaction you get when you see your imagined designs finally finished in all their glory, it’s so fulfilling that nothing else quite compares. There will always be moments of stress, frustration and self doubt but you need to be persistent and work around any problems or issues, there is always a solution if you look hard enough. I truly believe that if it’s meant to be then ‘what’s for you won’t forget you.’ Tell me about the most memorable moment of your career so far. I often recall the first time I walked into my first job interview. It was in Milan for Dolce and Gabbana and I vividly remember the atmosphere around the office with these amazing creations draped on every inch of every wall, it was like Aladdin’s cave and the most glamorous environment I’ve ever been privileged to witness. Describe Leeds Leeds is blossoming whilst remaining distinctive and diverse. What is your life philosophy? “I believe that laughing is the best calorie burner. I believe in kissing, kissing a lot. . I believe in overdressing. I believe in primping at leisure and wearing lipstick. I believe in being strong when everything seems to be going wrong. I believe that happy girls are the prettiest girls. I believe that tomorrow is another day and I believe in miracles.” This is my favorite quote above all, by Audrey Hepburn.
‘I always imagine the person to wear my designs to be confident, elegant, sexy and feminine, someone who feels comfortable with her own body. I respect the kind of girl that thinks that there is no such thing as being overdressed, one that every day when she looks in the mirror she thinks and feels gorgeous!’
Zara Mia Parmar, born in Leeds, studied at Leeds College of Art. Zara completed a BA (Hons) Fashion degree June 2012 Graduating with a First - Class honors. Contrasting structured shapes together with draping to construct a unique style, Zara Mia has a distinctive approach to fashion. Functional and versatile fundamentals are imbedded in the design where a key element is that the majority of the garments are multipurpose; one garment can be worn in various ways giving options to the wearer. The garments also have practical aspects using enhanced fabrics such as being waterproof and windproof, protecting against the elements. Zara Mia focuses on the silhouette of the body accentuating the woman’s curvaceous figure, showing optical illusions in the garments so that the body appears in a different way. In a similar respect, the menswear is made to emphasize strength and power in men.
www.zaramia.co.uk
Z
ARA MIA
DESIGNER PROFILE
What drove you to achieve a career in the fashion industry? I initially started studying Art and Design. This was my first main interest and influence; it is still evident in my fashion today. Because of an inability to buy creative clothing for myself, I decided to design and make my garments. This is how I introduced myself to fashion. I also saw a gap in the market for my career. This is where my business grew from.
‘Because of an inability to buy creative clothing for myself, I decided to design and make my garments. This is how I introduced myself to fashion. I also saw a gap in the market for my career. This is where my business grew from.’
Who are your influences in life? Powerful muses changed fashion throughout history; in eras such as the opulent 18th century and the dominant 19th century. The muses influenced me in both motivating and designing new collections. What inspires you in life/career? I want to define fashion to make a change in how people wear clothes. Functionality does not have to be boring and ugly. I want to produce practical and beautiful garments. Old films inspire me, showing the pride in appearance of how people used to dress. I want to bring that back. What kind of girl do you imagine will wear your designs? The Zara Mia fashion brand has two ranges. This brings two types of diverse customers to the brand. Zara Mia - Professional men and women with disposable income aged 30-50’s. Living a social lifestyle, their look means everything. One step outside is their catwalk: craving the visual attention; attending fashion shows, exhibitions, and art installations; and appreciate the finer things in life. Zara Mia - Male and female students aged 16-30 with a keen interest in fashion. Aspiring to stand out from the crowd in their appearance, travelling around discovering vintage shops/fairs, and sourcing hidden treasures to add to their unique style.
What are your hopes for the future, in terms of your brand/career? I hope to become a leading fashion designer in the industry; a well-known brand for both menswear and woman’s wear. Initially I want to establish a studio where employees can be trained to make quality clothing. I would like Zara Mia stock to be available in shops and online worldwide.
Who is your ultimate fashion icon? My ultimate fashion icon would be Dame Vivienne Westwood as an individual, because of what she believes in: changing the world with fashion. What advice would you give someone hoping to achieve a career in the fashion industry? Love what you do, be yourself, and stand out with your personality! Have determination, motivation, and be prepared for hard work! Networking is key, keep contacts! A fashion designer never stops! Tell me about the most memorable moment of your career so far. Achieving First-Class honours in a BA (hons) Fashion Degree; after studying several courses over the period of 6 years at Leeds Art College; was the most memorable moment in my career. Describe Leeds in 3 words - the style, fashion, culture, arts etc. Diverse, Distinctive, Desirable Is there an interesting event or place in Leeds that is close to your heart? Leeds Fashion Show. It is an accomplishment, showcasing your collections in your own city. It is a great platform in the local fashion industry; your brand gets promotion and recognition. What is your life philosophy? The Zara Mia philosophy: ‘to define fashion itself, changing the fabric of society’
‘I want to define fashion to make a change in how people wear clothes. Functionality does not have to be boring and ugly. I want to produce practical and beautiful garments.’
WHO’S THAT GIRL? BY HARVEY NICHOLS One girl. Two looks. Make heads turn with feminine brights and graphic prints.
Photography by Emily Dickinson and Enya Arton
This page: Dress, £890, Mary Katrantzou. Shoes, £60, Jeffrey Campbell. Previous page: Dress, £1,650 Gucci. Shoes, £120, Michael Michael Kors Stylist and editor: Emma Cook. Model: Becky Taylor
We’re lucky in Leeds to benefit from key flagship stores of well-known high street brands. Harvey Nichols is just one of them. The first store outside London, Harvey Nichols Leeds opened in 1996 and its innovative visual merchandising, designer brands and restaurants continue to attract shoppers from across West Yorkshire. With the opening of Trinity Leeds in 2013, we have more new flagship stores, including Topshop, River Island and Oasis. These retail behemoths echo their sisters on Oxford Street: floors of glittering mirrors, racks of clothes, ever-changing merchandising and packed to the rafters with eager fashionistas. These flagships help attract shoppers into retail centres, providing something visually and architecturally different from a regular brand space with the reassuring knowledge there’ll be the same products and a whole range of sizes. But do they live up to their name? A flagship originally meant the first vessel in a fleet, used by the flag-carrying commanding officer. It was the “first, largest, fastest, most heavily armed, or best known” ship in the convoy. How do these criteria stack up next to Leeds’ flagships? Many of them are the first – at least, the first flagship outside London or in the North of England. They may not be the largest, but with Topshop measuring 31,000 square foot, they’re pretty damn big. And when it comes to speed, the turnover in these flagship stores is astronomical: in 2012, sales from Harvey Nichols Leeds had grown 4 to 5 per cent year on year. Simply standing in Briggate on a Saturday afternoon would demonstrate how rapidly these shops churn through customers. But when it comes to the two final deciding factors – most heavily armed and best known – our flagships are dead in the water. Leeds’ flagships aren’t best known, or even well-known, outside of Yorkshire. Constantly compared to Manchester, Leeds is the modest city who always drags its heels. These flagships offer the North’s retail scene a great deal, but as with far too many things, we’re seen as the poorer, grimmer, not-quite-as-clever cousin of London. And the reason why is our arsenal. These flagships are not heavily armed; they’re running at the enemy with a stick and a saucepan, not an AK-47. Equipping these flagships with exciting, innovative retail ideas that show they’re one step ahead of the other ships in the fleet will give them more kudos in the retail world, raising their profile and making them well-known. While some flagships are attempting to do something different in Leeds, it feels weak and old-hat: discounted shopping events, DJs in store and student nights aren’t new. Where are the team-ups with local designers and independent shops? The collaborations with local bloggers? The pop-up catwalk shows? The live briefs with our universities and colleges? And if these things are already happening, why don’t we know about them? Our flagships are beautiful spaces with incredible products, but they’re letting us down. Being first, fastest and biggest benefits brands; being well-known and well-armed will benefit Leeds.
Leading The Armada Fashion writer
Eleanor Snare
argues Leeds needs
more hands on deck when it
comes to flagship stores.