Northern Creatives
Issue 1
CELEBRATION
“Reducing our levels of consumption will not be a sacrafice but a bonus if we simply redefine the meaning of the word success�
David Wann
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Contents Northern Creators About 3-4
Study 34
Ellie O’Neill discusses her sustainable knitwear brand 31-37
The circular economy Exploring the meaning behind this new found economy 5-6
Many Definitions 7-10
The White T-Shirt Company We talk to Penny about her pefect white t-shirts 38-44
Changing times Think piece The world as we know it today 45-52
NOVOCASTRIAN
A vision into
furniture brand NOVOCASTRAIN 11-21 The Journey An insightful look into the Journey coffee shop 22-28
Zara Think Piece Big high street brands are beginning to change 29-30
Recyke y’Bike An admirable charity helping locals in Newcastle and beyond 53-59
Love it Love it Love it Ruth encourages parents to really love children’s clothing and not just until it doesn’t fit anymore 60-64
Global Warming The Hoover Dam 65-71
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Northern Creatives Northern Creatives is a website and magazine about different creatives, retailers, charities and designers in the North East that are embracing sustainability within their work. Based around the circular economy, interviews have been conducted and photo-shoots created in order to celebrate the true talents that lie within the North East. Showing their raw passion for sustainability personally and in their work. Northern Creatives first issue is based on celebrating the different sections of the circular economy, from designers and creators, companies that are recycling and reusing, to the manufacturing processes within local retail brands. It aims to celebrate these individuals and get them talked about, it is all about showing off the amazing work they produce. Sustainability can mean different things to everyone, Northern Creatives highlights these meanings through different forms of businesses. During each interview every individual was asked, what does sustainability mean to you?
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The
Circular economy Think Piece
A changing world
The circular economy is about embracing sustainability.
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The circular economy is about embracing sustainability. It is an alternative economy to the traditional make, use and dispose system we are all so familiar with. This is about keeping resources in use for as long as possible, extract the maximum value from them whilst they are in use and then recover and regenerate the materials once they have reached the end of their life. It is focused around economic benefits, UK business could benefit by up to ÂŁ21 billion per year through low cost or no improvements in the efficient use of resources. The circular economy is based around retailers using less packaging and waste along the whole supply chain. Reusing, repairing and recycling old things we do not need or things that could be used for another purpose. Recycling the waste that we do not need or use, instead of just throwing it out. Designing and manufacturing in a way that does not harm the environment and creating transparent supply chains.
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LONGEVITY a long duration of individual life. length of life. Long life; great duration of life: Long duration or continuance.
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TRANSPARENT SUPPLY CHAINS traceability is essential for firms that seek to measure the environmental footprint of their products. A fully transparent supply chain extends visibility and enables a true farm-to-fork view of the path supplies. This captures the extent to which information about the companies, suppliers and sourcing locations is readily available to end-users and other companies in the supply chain.
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REUSE Reuse is the action or practice of using something again. more than once. Reintroduction of a by-product or waste material as an input into a manufacturing process, usually without any physical or chemical change.
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RECYCLE convert (waste) into reusable material. return (material) to a previous stage in a cyclic process. use again. It is an alternative to “conventional� waste disposal that can save material and help lower greenhouse gas emissions.
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Interview
NOVOCASTRIAN A look into the finest quality and naturally British furniture
“What we do have on our side is longevity. Our pieces are built to outlast their owners."
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Design
Started as little project run by Richard, Mark
thousands of industry professionals, they recently
and Dean, Richard who has a degree in
exhibited at the London and Northern Design
architecture and Mark a graphic designer started
Festivals 2016. Today based in Washington their
a furniture project, NOVOCASTRIAN. Early on
workshop is packed with metals and flying sparks,
Richy’s brother Dean was brought in on the
along with beautifully handcrafted furniture.
conversation, as an industrial trained metal worker he would complete the team. With a
Each piece of work must have a meaning
robust set of complementary skills they could
for an inspiration
design and manufacture in-house from the start.
“Our first core value is one of quality. Our designs
After overwhelming reviews and sales from
are built to last, and this is almost certainly the
their first showing which was in front of
underlying industrial influence in our work.
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The quality we aim for is not just in the construction
“We seek to reveal the inherent beauty in those
however, it’s in the design itself, the choice of
materials often overlooked. One of the key
materials and the level of finishing. Each piece of
materials we work with is Cumbrian slate. Most
work must have a meaning for an inspiration, a
think of slate as roof tile, that dull, grey, heavily
process, an end point, and us. A coffee table is a
textured surface which quietly protects your
coffee table, but it can also tell the story of how
home from rain. Many are surprised therefore at
the materials, which create it, have been queried,
the incredible beauty revealed when the slate is
smelted, welded and polished to create the final
honed to a smooth finish. The materials we use
object. The final core value is of authenticity. We
are not particularly sustainable; we cut steel and
not only source our materials and manufacture
brass. The production methods are certainly not
our products in the area we grew up, but we
the most environmentally friendly. What we do
regularly call upon the region to inspire us.”
have on our side is longevity. Our pieces are built to outlast their owners. We hope
Sustainability is now such an overarching
that they are sold, resold, gifted, adopted
phrase that it’s very difficult to pinpoint
and
inherited
through
many
generations.
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In the short term, we’re beaten hands down by
Each of our creations is a blend
a low-cost piece of furniture made from recycled
of
chipboard, but in 50 years time we don’t expect
“Our native North East is a strong source of
that it’ll be our products that are consigned
inspiration. This inspiration manifests itself in
to a landfill.”
a couple of ways; the first is in the structures,
form,
materiality,
and
process.
the relics of an industrial past. The work of
All of our materials are sourced from the
Peter Zumthor stands out, not only his buildings
UK
but equally his writings. The way he describes
“Almost all of our materials are sourced from
environments as immersive sensory experiences,
the UK, and often even closer. The slate we
how they sound, how things feel to the touch,
use is sourced from Cumbria for instance,
how they smell. As a graphic designer much of
only around 75 miles from our workshop!”
what inspires Mark is of course graphical. He’s a Northern Creatives
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minimalist at heart, and enjoys extracting rhythm and forming the architectural elements.”
We hope to be able to reach our potential as a business “We hope to continue to inspire buyers to invest in meaningful designs, and to inspire creators to create meaningful designs, particularly our fellow northerners. We hope to play our part in a reawakening of the North East’s design industry, hope to see it become competitive globally.”
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“ In the short term, we’re beaten hands down by a low-cost piece of furniture made from recycled chipboard, but in 50 years time we don’t expect that it’ll be our products that are consigned to a landfill.” NOVOCASTRIAN
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Interview
The Journey Adam Laing discusses The Journey, a coffee shop in the heart of Newcastle.
“The aim is to have it so we focus on all sustainable transport, cycling and walking being the main two."
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Recycle and Reuse Transparent Supply Chain
It is a cold November evening at The Journey, a
The Journey is a project put together by Sustrans,
coffee shop adjacent to The Laing Art Gallery.
a national charity for sustainable transport. Within
The shop has started to calm down as trade
the same building is the charity Recyke y’Bike, the
for the day begins to close. Adam is sat at the
company runs as two different establishments
bar eating his lunch at 4pm, he jokes that he is
but are centred in the same building and often
always last to get lunch. The coffee shop is full
work together. The Journey was built to be the
of refurbished bikes, maps and pictures. The
official tourist information hub of Newcastle. A
smell of well-made coffee hits you as you walk
travel centre that doesn’t only repair old bikes,
in. It has a homely, inviting feel about it. I was
but one where customers can have a coffee
excited to learn about what this proactive charity
and gain knowledge on how to make their lives
does, having heard such great things about it.
and transport routes increasingly sustainable. Northern Creatives
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Adam who owns the café says, “The aim is to have
goes as far back as the roastery buying from the
it so we focus on all sustainable transport, cycling
importer, who buys directly from the farm. With
and walking being the main two.” Adam is also a
so few links, he can keep his beans competitive.
keen cyclist; he often pops in next door to Reckye y’Bike to give a hand fixing up the bikes.
Sustainability to Adam is more personal than just his business, “As much as I can I’ll be sustainable,
Adam took over the café in July 2016, having
everyone recycles now so I think sustainability is a
worked for the previous owner, he still holds the
natural thing that everyone should just think about
same ethos and values. “So I’m still using the
all the time. Its not hard to do, I cycle everywhere,
same beans and I’ve still got the same ethos with
I walk everywhere, I try my best not to get public
everything that I do. So we can trace the coffee
transport as much as possible.” While Adam is
from the roastery right back to the farm. It’s not fair
trying to be as sustainable as possible both at work
trade but fair trade can sometimes be detrimental
and home, he empathises that he knows when he
to some farmers, these farmers actually get paid
gets a big delivery in vans it’s not as sustainable as
about five times as much.” Adam explains that he
he would like. He does however explain that for
can keep his coffee at a reasonable price as it only
the smaller deliveries he has a giant cargo bike! Northern Creatives
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Customers go in to the café to find out ways to
“I think its just we live in a time where there’s
become sustainable, they advise walking and
not that much money round. So I think with the
cycle routes as well as help any customers who
idea that there’s not much money around, the
have something specific they want to achieve.
whole idea of consumerism can sort of come
Adam says that originally there was meant to be
down a bit and people are more used to saving
a Sustrans rep in the shop to advise customers
what they’ve got. Keeping hold of what they’ve
about walks, different modes of transport and
got, reusing as much as they can. It’s becoming
cycle rides, however since cut backs Adam does
a normality which is brilliant to be honest.”
his best to advise the customers as much as he can. “So myself and Peter from Recyke y’Bike,
The passion Adam has for sustainability is
being keen cyclists and walkers ourselves, we give
inspiring, it pours out as he speaks and the love
as much information as we can with any needs that
he has for his café and cycling is clear. Coffee is
meet the door, with the maps, the routes and the
always going to be a popular social scene, but The
local area as far as we can.” With more customers
Journey Café really does show how it can be done
becoming sustainably aware, Adam explains
sustainably while being inspirational as well.
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Zara Think Piece
Zara’s place in the circular economy Photography by Zara
Fast fashion brand Zara has new collections and pieces coming in every two weeks. It is therefore easy to see why consumers throw away clothes regularly, in order to purchase new ones. Clothes that have not yet reached the end of their life, and are still in a good condition. However there is good news…
In 2015 Inditex, Zara’s owner started a closed loop approach, meaning it productions and operations are more sustainable. The project launched in 2015 and it looks to reuse and recycle all of Inditex garments. It began with a pilot in 37 Zara stores in five countries, Spain, UK, Denmark, Netherlands, and Sweden. Bins were placed for the collection of clothing, footwear and accessories that consumers no longer wanted. They are then donated to non-profit partners such as Cáritas or Red Cross. Inditex collected 5.7 tones of items in 2015 from stores and 37 tones from logistics centres and offices. Proving just how much consumers throw away!
In 2015 Zara brought out their sustainable collection, Join Life. The products in the Join Life collections have to meet a series of internal qualifications: the primary fabric must be Better Cotton Initiative Approved, organic cotton, recycled cotton, recycled polyester or recycled polyamide. It must be manufactured with one of
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Inditex’s Green to Wear technologies, which includes water recycling, and factories with wet process that primary fabric must earn a grade of A or B in Inditex’s environment sustainability standard. In 2015 the brand started reusing packaging for customer deliveries as part of its 2020 goal of zero landfill waste. For the textiles that cannot be recycled they have partnered with “social organisations”, universities and leading companies in the segment. Instead of publishing marketing images, the brand is promoting the in-store recycling bins. It is a collaborative art project entitled, “Boxes with a Past”, offering artists 100% recycled boxes.
Although Join Life is a step in the right direction from Zara it is difficult to see past the mass of fast fashion collections they continually have coming into store. They are heading in the right direction towards a more positive circular economy and they have a clear vision for 2020, more than can be said for most high-street retailers!
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Interview
Study 34
Meet the cutting edge fashion designer embracing sustainability
“I think it just simply means creating something, developing something that doesn’t harm the environment."
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Recycle and Reuse Design and Manufacture
Over the past few years we have seen a developing
with making a statement of ethical solidarity.
desire for more transparency in clothing and manufacturing processes. Zara and H&M are the
Eleanor O’Neill embraces style through her
latest to create sustainable collections, however,
beautiful knitwear. Her sustainable brand Study
having these collections run alongside their fast
34 commenced in 2015. Making a stand in
fashion garments appears condescending. Are
the circular economy through her design and
these collections really credible? This is great news
manufacturing, her jumpers are created using
for consumers who want to know where their
ethical yarns and no waste rules. Following
clothes come from. But does attention on ethics
working for a global supply chain manager and
actually have staying power in today’s fast paced
international luxury brands, she found herself fed
fashion market?
up. “I started to think, why am I bored? Then I started to uncover all these things that bothered
There is an overwhelming desire for garments
me. I have always been in a certain role and
that can look good but that go hand in hand
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designing a garment to putting it up for sale.”
Sustainability
is
an
important
subject
to
Ellie; a word she says is bandied about but After making her first collection by hand, from
also one that means so much. “I think it just
thread to final garment, Ellie realised this was not
simply means creating something, developing
the best way to move forward. Today, working
something that doesn’t harm the environment.
with a British factory creating fine gauge knitwear
Whether that is through its longevity and it’s
through end of the line yarns, she finds herself
not just products. There are sustainable ways
excited, but also a little apprehensive about the
of working as well, you know, you work in a way
next phase. “I’m collaborating with people who
that encourages the good growth of a person.”
will help me along the way. So it’s the first time that I have done that and I’ve been in charge of
Discussing the fast fashion sustainable capsules
every single section of it, and there were some
with Ellie, she has dividing opinions about their
challenges along the way, which is why it is taking
authenticity, “I think it is good to raise awareness
a little bit longer than I would have hoped.”
and realistically what you need is someone massive
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like H&M to actually do something about it.” She says, “There will be, I’m certain that there will be, an element of green washing, but I don’t think they are 100% bad necessarily. Those giants are the ones who are going to be able to change the industry.”
Sustainability is still very niche, is this the result of high street brands ignoring the topic, or has society just become settled in its old habits?
Ellie hopes to one day have a team working for her, in a city and a studio. Producing ethical jumpers, made in small quantities but of a luxurious quality. “I’d like to develop a really positive and experimental work place, for people to come and learn from each other and be really passionate!” Northern Creatives
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“There will be, I’m certain that there will be, an element of green washing, but I don’t think they are 100% bad necessarily. Those giants are the ones who are going to be able to change the industry.”
Eleanor O’Neill
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Interview
The White T-Shirt Company Making an impact in fashion retail
Sustainability to Penny is not just about how it is created, but how long a product can last.
Recycle and Reuse Design
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The White T-shirt Company is a brand that uses ethical supply chains, organic cottons and aims to reduce waste. The brand is very much a part of today’s new circular economy. An economy that is transparent to consumers, minimises rubbish and cares for our environment. As oppose to the previous make, use, and dispose method society had become accustomed to. Penny, a determined businesswoman, owns The White T-shirt Company. The smell of breakfast is strong in the air as we walk into her home. It’s a warmhearted family abode, but also a place of dedicated work. Where family pictures hang from the wall and clothing tags dangle from the table. Her little office sits at the top of the stairs in this vast picturesque house.
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Since starting up in 2004 The White T-shirt Company has seen some defeats. With a fall in sales when the UK textile mills began closing down, Penny became downhearted when the organic mill she sourced from closed, halting the business she adored. After a short period of gloom, the Danish company re-approached Penny a couple of years later, she thought to herself, ‘this is the right time’. Now her organic cottons are from Turkey and her polyester from Portugal. The authentic nature of organic clothing is to be celebrated in these gloomy times. Penny’s t-shirts don’t only fit to perfection, but their seams don’t twist, their hems perfected, and they wash like a dream. Each piece has gone through the whole production process guilt free, from Turkey to North Shields, a t-shirt of pure attraction, in both design and development. All charmingly packaged through timeworn recycled card, in the most picturesque put together little parcel. Northern Creatives
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Sustainability to Penny is not just about how it is created, but how long a product can last. Once worn down she thrives for you to make the t-shirts into dusters and sleepwear, so never to fill landfill. Penny’s design background means she longs for these such projects. Having already focused on ethical baby garments, her next venture is Tailor your tee, a form of creating the ultimate faultless size and sleeve length ethical t-shirt. Sustainability is now a need not a desire. With so much darkness in one world, Penny sheds light on how we can comfort a dissolving earth; through retailers doing their bit to help reduce waste and form transparent supply chains.
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Changing Times Northern Creatives Think Piece
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While sat looking at the countless fashion weeks on a gloomy day in September, I notice the caption sustainability crop up. No matter what
always
seems to
season, no matter what show, designers
are always slated for their lack of zest towards the subject.
I started to ponder why no one ever gets praised for what they do in these glum dismal times. The media never writes an encouraging story about an independent designer who is incorporating sustainability. It is all so uninspiring, when everything seems so bleak.
It is true the world has to change. Global warming is becoming an issue we can no longer overlook, no matter what unwise Trump says. It is becoming a part of society, but do people actually care?
We throw clothes away like there is no tomorrow and we buy new ones like we need them. Polluting rivers and seas and clogging up landfill, it seems so foolish.
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Sustainability and global warming is a subject that is here to stay, one that is so prominent today. A issue that unless we change, it wont change. Maybe a word you once thought geeky, organic clothes you once thought dropped from your body like a wet flannel and institutions you thought would not understand you. This is all about showing people how far society has come in making sustainability the norm. Commending the individuals and making their voices heard. It is refreshing to see these creators being so kind and compassionate, it feels so inspiring to have met them.
Having only ever touched the surface with the locals, I found myself travelling from Washington to Northshields, places I had never called upon. It was far from the normal metro ride I often take into town. I am now looking at situations in different ways, ways I never thought I would. I want to praise the people who are trying to bring a little light to this melting earth. The ones who are trying to comfort us, and the ones who are trying to help tackle this ever growing fight against global warming.
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Interview
Recyke y’Bike Creating sustainable bicycles while helping communities locally and internationally, we investigate the respectable North East charity.
"When we scrap the bikes we strip them down to their individual components and any that are reusable we keep, and either sell or use."
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Recyle and Resue
When it comes to emissions, travelling via bicycle
While committed to helping the environment
leaves little if any carbon footprint. With bikes
through throwing away as little as possible, they
perceived as an environmentally friendly form
also do remarkable work with charities in Kenya,
of transport, it begs the question could they be
refugees and asylum seekers.
produced sustainably? What is it that you do at Recyke y’Bike? Recyke y’Bike is a charity, that bases its ethos
“Recyke y’Bike is a charity, it was set up in 2006,
around upcycling and their focus is sustainability.
people give us bikes; we fix them up and sell
The whole pursuit is underpinned by the belief
them. We send five hundred bikes a year to a
that all waste can be saved. By recycling, repairing
local project in Kenya and we give away fifty to
and reusing parts of equipment from old bikes,
sixty bikes to refugees and asylum seekers. We
they put together, polish up and create new bikes
have forty odd volunteers, and about half of
from recycled fragments.
them are retired. At the other end of the scale
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we’ve got a number of people who have
components and any that are reusable we keep,
moderate to severe mental health issues, we
and either sell or use. Bike tyres go to a council
have people with learning difficulties, seriously
refuge centre where they get sent off and they get
long term unemployed individuals and we give
turned into matting for playgrounds.”
them purpose.” Have you seen a rise in consumers wanting to How do you distribute all the bikes you repair?
become increasingly sustainable?
“We get donated around two thousand bikes a year.
“People donate bikes to us because they think
Of those we sell eleven hundred, five hundred go
it’s a good thing to do, for some it’s sustainability,
to Africa, fifty are given away locally, and around
for some people it’s because they are helping the
three hundred get scrapped. When we scrap
projects in Africa.”
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"We have people with learning difficulties, seriously long term unemployed individuals and we give them purpose." Northern Creatives
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What is the outlook of Recyke y’Bike?
communities by sending thousands of bikes to
“Recyke y’Bike started out under a railway arch
Africa each year, aiming to make substantial changes
in Byker, we’ve now got two sites in Byker, one’s
to peoples lives in some of the continents poorest
the shop and the other a workshop. We opened
and most remote regions. When looking at a bigger
a shop in Durham and last June we opened The
national brand such as Halfords who’s sustainable
Journey. I think next year we will open a shop in
visions are nowhere near Recyke y’Bikes ethos,
Gateshead; potentially another one after that in
it makes you value the hard work local charities
South Sheilds and that will be it.”
do. Helping not only the locals of Newcastle by supplying jobs and sustainable guidance but
Recyke y’Bike has three motivating targets, reduce
helping the international community too. This
isolation in communities, promote better physical
is a business practice that should be admired.
health and provide employment opportunities. The charity is effectively reducing isolation in
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Interview
Love it Love it Love it Ruth encourages parents to really love children’s clothing and not just until it doesn’t fit anymore
She will only sell clothing of high quality, to ensure they last a long period of time.
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Design
Tucked away in an industrial yard just off the
While showing me some of the collections that
quayside in Newcastle is Love it Love it Love
she has bought in for the up coming seasons
it, run by Ruth. It is a children’s clothing brand
she stressed that she will only sell clothing of
that is based around the longevity of children’s
high quality, to ensure they last a long period
clothing. Ruth started up her business in 2009,
of time. The soft touch and the element of
she buys in clothing from retailers from all around
washing well is really important for her brand.
the world and sells them on her online store. Having had so much success online with clothing, Her brand message is based around good quality
Ruth decided at the end of last year to branch out
clothing being passed down to future children,
into sustainable homeware, it is an area that is
grandchildren, nieces, nephews or anyone that
much harder to find on the market. She showed
you know! Ruth understands that children’s
me some beautiful children’s cups made from
clothing isn’t going to fit your child for a long
bamboo. The feel was so soft and smooth, and
period of time before they are into the next size.
she was delighted to tell me that they are 100%
She wants parents to keep the clothing instead
biodegradable as well.
of throw away after they are finished with them, resulting in less clothing going into landfill.
Ruth is a leading example of how being sustainable can be expanded into so many areas, her brand
Ruth loves colour, being a mother herself, she
message is admirable. She is actively encouraging
understands that whites never stay white and was
parents to stop throwing away so many children’s
sick of seeing neutral colours on the high street.
clothes. She says that not all of her clothing is
She emphasised that she wants bright colours
100 per cent sustainable but she hopes that the
within her collections. While talking with Ruth she
longevity, colour and quality of her clothing will
expressed that she also really wanted the colours of
avoid them seeing landfill for many generations
the children’s clothes to be unisex. Perfect for a boy
to come.
or girl, therefore meaning its longevity is increased.
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Global Warming Think Piece
Hoover Dam
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The modern world... Sometimes it is easy to just forget how global warming is affecting the rest of the world. It is not until you see something that impacts you, shocks you or scares you that sometimes you realise how serious something can be.
Whilst on a trip to the U.S in the summer I visited the Hoover Dam in Las Vegas, I witnessed how enormous the impact of global warming really is, and how we are all a contributing to it getting worse. I started thinking about how we are the only ones who can really change it and do something about it.
In May 2016, Lake Mead in Vegas dropped to its lowest point since the Hoover Dam was completed in 1936. The Hoover Dams generators provide power for the public and private utilities in Nevada, Arizona and California.
The lake is now around 37 per cent full, while showing a distinctive mineral bathtub ring around the edge, demonstrating the dramatic drop. It now has a 103 feet surface level that it has lost since 2000, this is due to the California drought, which has been going on for around a shocking ten years. The drought has killed 7.7 million acres of forest and caused massive forest fires, especially in California in summer 2016, which saw a smog of thick smoke from the fires cover the city.
All of this is happening due to global warming, droughts are expected to get more severe as the climate of the world is changing, and global warming will bring more uncertainty to our nature, warmer temperatures can increase water demand and evaporation, therefore putting greater stress on water supplier. The Hoover Dam is a leading example of global warming taking place. Showing visible effects global warming is having on our planet.
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“THE GREATEST THREAT TO OUR PLANET IS THE BELIEF THAT SOMEONE ELSE WILL SAVE IT” ROBERT SWAN
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‘As a billion dollar industry and the second most polluting business after oil, fashion has a direct impact on the environment. The processing of raw materials required for textiles and the vast amounts of water used (2,700 litres per single t-shirt) contributes to the emission of greenhouse gasses which are causing climate change. The arrival of fast fashion and the massive increase in number of clothes that we are buying (and quickly discarding) means that this impact is only getting greater.’ Gather and See
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Credits Richard, Mark & Dean - NOVOCASTRIAN Eleanor O’Neill - Study 34 Penny Jones - The White T-Shirt Company Adam Laing - The Journey & Recyke y’Bike Ruth - Love it Love it Love it All photography and writing was conducted by Emily Denton unless otherwise stated.
www.northerncreators.wordpress.co.uk
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NORTHERN CREATIVES Issue 1
CELEBRATION