'10'

10 10 10

Years Brands Artists

Celebrating the 10th year anniversary of Dover Street Market, we take 10 artists and pair them with 10 brands, the artist in turn creates a piece of work inspired by the values and aesthetic of the brand.’10’ shows what visual outcome that results in, exploring how two creative fields can be merged together and celebrated.

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Comme de Garรงons Paul Bloomers

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Kawakubo's profound influence in the fashion industry is as a symbol, a touchstone by which many designers can justify their risk-taking and sometimes their very existence in the profession She has fiercely challenged convention at every turn. Her garments bear almost no relation to those of other designers, betray almost no influence from other fashion eras. As one former employee, the designer Hiroyuki Horihata, once told W magazine, all she ever wanted was to “make clothes that nobody has ever seen. She wanted extreme beauty.”. Her nonconformist clothes, with their Dalíesque contours, are the visible expressions of her inner life, a passionate cauldron of ideas, feelings, and intuitions.

They are often asymmetrical, destroyed, or deconstructed in some way.

Vessels comes from that indefatigable sense of Kawakubo’s work that suggest and reveal complex forms apart from their material nature. A form in which a kind of due process or technological unraveling becomes more than an interpretation but a bodily pronouncement which situates the wearer and suspends the body in an intelligence that is itself the seed of replication. Vessels is in some way an illustration of this flux. Through the body becomes the modern and technological digested as if a cultural artefact, however, what is revealed is the fluidity of time and the construction of structure. Shapes that act as points of cognition in a tertiary field where nodes compress and weave the cultural fabric in might what appropriately thought as a space to the consummation of things.

Floating Vessel (01)

Floating Vessel (02)

Floating Vessel (03)

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Jil Sander Linda Antalova

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The ultimate Jil Sander show is so rigorously disciplined, and so precisely executed, that it can sometimes feel as if you’ve just come out of a lecture on trigonometry. So single-minded is her view – the purist of the pure, most minimal of all minimalists – she is utterly unswerving in her vision. As she put it in her show notes: ‘High-carat femininity, graceful and incorruptible… Controlled emotion in dresses and skirts…

Vigorously articulated tailoring.’

Jil Sander is renowned for her pareddown style, Sander marries neutral colours with architectural silhouettes. Her utilitarian collections incorporate strong tailored pieces and androgynous, minimal separates.

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‘Sequence ≈’

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Replication. Sensations and impressions emerge from the shadows and forge themselves into concreteness. Rudimentary architecture - sequence gives birth to substance and shadow becomes form, the void into matter. From this dark mould, an ectype emerges turning craters in the mind’s eye into material existence, into relief. Subject begets object and the object takes on life. What once was the absence of light and volume now engages with other forms on its own terms, living now in a world of planar realities of colour and texture. From this sequentialisation of absence a new existence is borne into a milieu of structure and presence.-Linda Antlova 2014

‘Ectype I’

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‘Ectype II’

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10 J Js Lee Ira Svobodovรก

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J. JS LEE is by Jackie JS LEE who was born in Seoul Korea and she came to London to take the Post Graduate Pattern Course at Central Saint Martin in 2007.

And after her two years of working as a pattern cutter at Kisa London she came back to study at Central Saint Martin for her MA degree.

Her MA Graduation Collection in 2010 received much positive press and buyer attention, and also was rewarded the revered Harrods Award; with her collection being house in the window of the Knightsbridge Department Store.

In March she launched her eponymous label, J JS LEE featuring sleek and chic androgynous pieces in tailoring.

Her vision for creating a label which defines a modern woman who is concerned with looking sharp in a uniquely feminine way has been given a platform to launch itself.

‘Pink’

‘Turquoise’ Chic minimalist and the modern way. Sophisticated combinations of natural and significant colours, with glazed parts. Precise details presented in an elegant way. A Game of light, shade and shadow. All of this is apparent in my paintings and I relate to this way of thinking in fashion. I took inspiration from the more colourful pieces in the collections to recreate it with paintings . It was very natural for me, as I feel the work of J Js Lee and I both adore motto “Less is more”. - Ira Svobodová

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Damir Doma is a Parisian fashion brand founded in 2006 by the designer Damir Doma and Paper Rain. The Croatian-born designer grew up surrounded by toiles in his mother’s atelier in Germany and later studied fashion in Munich and Berlin, where he graduated in 2004.

After gaining experience in the ateliers of Antwerp designers Raf Simons and Dirk Schonberger, he relocated to Paris to going Paper Rain in 2007.

Damir Doma’s work is harmoniously linked be a sense of uniform and an obsessive interplay between shadow and light, with designs that encapsulate a measured study of proportion and a juxtaposition of rough and refined textures.

Questioning the modern wardrobe, garments offer multiple expressions of identity - contrasting elements of androgyny with dress codes across cultural and historical spheres.

‘Doma’

'This painting is a representation of Damir Domas SS14 collection. I have taken inspiration from it's colour, texture and movement to create a feature wall for an in-store installation.

By combining gouache, pencil and fineliner i have captured the fluidity and structural elements of this collection. The circle motif represents the frequently placed polka dot and the stripe is depicted from the bold use of orange throughout.

My aim was for the painting to have seamless continuity with the collection.'-Corey Hemingway

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Erdem Victoria Arney

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Erdem Moralioglu was born and raised in Montreal, Canada by his Turkish father and English mother. He moved to London to attend the Royal College of Art where he received his master’s degree in 2003. Upon graduation, Moralioglu moved to New York to work in the design studios of Diane von Furstenberg before relocating to London to launch his own label in 2005.

The eponymous label continues to bring together modern elegance and wearability through his couture-level craftsmanship each season.His enigmatic florals are key each season.

Erdem is especially admired for the dreamy, watercolor prints that he designs himself on a Mac computer. He considers each season “a chapter in the same book. A love story that would be set in a lush English garden filled with “color, optimism, and oddities.

‘Untitled 2’

‘Untitled 1’ My work deals with fugitive landscapes that are in a state of transience – I work between known and unknown 'scapes' using internet collections to research sites of ruin, loss and transition through natural and manmade interventions. Sometimes this stripping away of the top layer of landscape through these activities reveal a historical sense of ourselves with the landscape.

Artifice / Artificium Arts + facere 'make' – what we can make of nature ERDEM-In relation to this designer I asked the question what do we do with Nature and how does this relate to our ideas of nature ? I was interested in his use of historical textile designs and flora and fauna designs from the Russian Tzar period.

‘Untitled 1’ River in Aubussion France( famous for its 17th & 18th century wool tapestry) Personal archive Wool colours were set by washing them in the local streams – the oval is a japanese floral block print.

‘Untitled 2’ Taklamakan Desert oasis ruin internet archive.An abandoned Oasis on the Silk Road (Taklamakan Desert )where fabrics were traded to the Russian Tzars/ a repeat oval of a traditional Russian floral print V&A archive ‘Untitled 3’ Disused Greenhouse in Turkey where Fruit trees were force grown/ ovals from a vintage dictionary of Flora and Fauna personal archives Each space has a history to the decorative industry that has altered the landscape.

Victoria Hauge.

‘Untitled 3’ -

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5 (6) 7 8 9 10 Craig Green Matthew Johnstone

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London native Craig Green completed a BA Fashion Hons (Print) and MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins.Balancing light, shadow, and reflection the young designer creates conceptual and wearable fashion.The contrast of sculptural design created for spectacle and something more practical almost utilitarian.His work revels between both conceptual and wearable designs, always shining a strong light on the masculinity in his work. With recent designs showcasing jagged, carved masks and shirts embellished in glossy waxed cotton with hand-painted stripes, they are nothing short of revolutionary in menswear. Yet within his work lies a lot of depth, as he experiments with shadows and reflections to create meaning.

My interest is in an object that can take up a liminal position, that apprehends itself and encourages anthropomorphization. An object that casts a disinterested gaze on the administration of its character and favours dissonance, absurdly asking to be asked, what is the nature of its nature. This object is idealised and can reformulate and problematise the paradoxes of its meaning endlessly.

It offers itself to thought as the desire to be unthunk. It is simple and dumb and complex and technical, phenomenological and critical, crafted, overspecialised and dying slowly. If it reacts and seems content to undermine itself, or can express the desire to become the things it isn’t, then it might be generative and useful as an Artwork.Matthew Johnstone

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Christopher Kane Gareth Proskourine-Barnett

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The Christopher Kane brand was founded by the designer in 2006 upon his graduation from Central Saint Martin’s College, London. He has developed a reputation as one of the most talented and innovative British designers.

His brand is known for its inventive and imaginative fashion, offering classic yet subtly daring designs.

His visionary approach has resulted in highly individualistic, unorthodox styles that whilst unique, remain truly covetable and wearable. His embellishments and detailing, graphic prints and strong colour palette render him one of Britain’s most notable designer.

Virtual explorations and a sense of place - landscapes experienced as fragmented, distorted and estranged.

A walk around Christopher Kane's home town of Glasgow and one of its many high rise apartment blocks as experienced via Google Street View inspired a series of images of mutated architecture. Examining notions of progress, change, and dis-location, and discovering the lost forgotten and misplaced, the images reflect a landscape in a continual synthetic flux. I am particularly interested in the act of ‘displacement’ or the physical movement from place to place of imagery or data and the changes that occur during this process.

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Sacai Rosalind Davis

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Sacai is the label that brings the finest quality knits, reformed in unusual ways with contrasting fabrics.

Having previously worked for Comme des Garçons, Japanese designer Abe Chitose created Sacai in 1999 to showcase her own skill and expertise.Fusion design in her hands isn’t as loudly conceptual as the work of her pioneer compatriots. Instead, her fresh merging of garments and fabrics is intended to be the opposite of difficult, portable, wearable art. For Sacai the importance is put on conceiving fabrics and pattern techniques that haven't been done before which involves reinterpreting classical or traditional aspects of clothing and synthesising ideas.

Rosalind Davis is an artist whose central concerns are transformation, space, process, material and surface. The collaboration with Sacai has been about a meeting of interests and philosophies that go deeper than the aesthetics of surface and pattern but is engaged with innovation and experimentation.

Rosalind Davis’s paradoxical abstracted structures and landscapes portray an unfolding, complex set of possibilities for both physical and psychological space, reversals of form- of dislocated and disorientating folding spaces. With Sacai’s brand there is also a complex reading of form, reversing and reconfiguring the traditions of functional form, layering geometry and folds. There are references in the inspiration, to observing surroundings, Davis’ works are informed by a number of real spaces including Venice and Paris as well as imagined places, Sacai by observing the everyday.

In Davis’ work the image is literally sewn up and pinned down, whilst Sacai transforms fabrics in a similar way- slicing and reconfiguring. The threads in Davis works act as restraints and the tautness of the lines splice and dissects physical and psychological boundaries into geometric planes and shards echoed again in patterns revealed in Sacai’s complex fabrics.

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Peter Pilotto Adriรกn Navarro

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Peter Pilotto's vision of womenswear embraces both new and classic perspectives on elegance. Otherworldly prints combine with soft, sculptural shapes to form the handwriting of the design duo, something which evolves and is explored each season as opposed to being reactionary. Embracing both the future of fashion innovation and the elegant silhouettes of the past, to constructs clothes that are both artful and incredibly wearable.Print masters for the 21st century, harnessing both digital technology and traditional craftsmanship to bring highly detailed, kaleidoscopic patterns to their sculptural pieces.

‘Magenta and Blue Fragment’

‘Blue and Lime Fragment’

AdriĂĄn Navarro seeks to expand the vocabulary of the visual arts, establishing connections between the pictorial medium, perception, architecture and abstraction.

His work is a product of a dialectical reflection: the pulsation of life that plays tensely with the role of our body in the artificial world. In his pictures he shows a number of elements that can usually be considered antithetical, facing gesture to geometry, background to figure, disorder to order, the virtual to the real, two-dimensional to volumetric.

An apparently informalist background made of gestural brushstrokes functions as an organic landscape, this plane is rendered by a uniform grid of white dots that let you glimpse the inside, showing a struggle between opposites that creates the effect of permeability and detachment on the viewer. Navarro’s visual exploration celebrates the dichotomy among physical confinement and expansive freedom in painting.

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10 Hussein Chalayan Silja AddĂ˝

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Hussein Chalayan has often been dubbed fashion's resident mad scientist, and the British designer's avant-garde creations continually push the boundaries of what the human body can wear.

One season he devises a coffee table that transforms into a wooden skirt, while another season he creates an entire collection from the sturdy envelope paper known as Tyvek. Chalayan crosses disciplines to explore the latest innovations in science, design, music, and multimedia arts.His designs are seen to challenge any received notions of what fashion can be.

'The Malady of Elegance (Burka Series) 1'

'Variable Piece'

'Theory of Silence (Gendercide Series)'

Silja Addý’s work draws on the culturally-inscribed female role and aims to re-weave the complex social fabric. Playing with narratives constructed around culture and anthropology, her sculptural pieces create a poetic work on an intimate scale laden with personal resonance. The relationship between garments and the body, form, cut and dress code is about defining cultural territory, reflecting on the social body, politics, conformity and individuality.

'Performative / Narrative'

'The Malady of Elegance (Burka Series) 2' -

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 A great thank you to all the artists who contributed to ‘10’

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Paul Bloomfield - www.ploomers.com

Linda Antalova

- www.lindaantalova.com

Ira Svobodová - www.irasvobodova.com

Corey Hemingway - www.coreyhemingway.com

Victoria Arney - www.victoriaarney.com

Matthew Johnstone - www.matthewjohnstone.com

Gareth Proskourine-Barnett- www.garethbarnett.co.uk

Rosalind Davis - www.rosalinddavis.co.uk

Adrián Navarro www.adriannavarro.com

Silja Addý - www.siljaaddý.com

Art Direction / Graphic Design - Emma Sheridan - emmasheridan@live.com