OUTDOOR ISSUE #1807 (Jul-Aug 2018) by Emprise Group

Ladakh - land of high passes | Gender roles in adventure | Soling Arapiles | Trek the Scottish highlands

Exceptional Australian backcountry adventures

HIMAYALA TREK A 90km pilgrimage over Ladakh's fabled GandaLa Pass

TREASURE THE TARKINE

Jul/Aug 2018

PRINT POST APPROVED 100008799

The outdoor adventure community's continued push to protect the world's wilderness

SOLOING ARAPILES JUL-AUG 2018

$14.95

The inner conflict that besets climbing's most contentious style

36.8942° S, 147.1383° E

SNOWBOUND

contents regulars ed's letter Snowbound

outdoor team members This issues vagabonds and scrawlers

outdoor exposure 2018 Ultra-Trail Australia 100

NEWS Kate Leeming's grand adventure, protecting the Tarkine and an exciting union between The North Face and Thredbo resorts

Books, movies, culture Our team show you the best in outdoor reading

last shot 2018 Ultra-Trail Australia 100

adventure

32 42 52 64 72 25 82 114 92 102 06 08 10 14

nature's castle Munro bagging in the Scottish Highlands

there's a track out the back Australia's burgeoning backcountry scene

a most reverent place A trek into the North Indian Himalaya

soloing arapiles Climbing's most contentious style

keeping the home fires burning A look at gender roles in adventure

long distance graveller Nouvelle mountain biking

into the wild An epic trek in southwest Tasmania

TAUPO TREATs A family, fun-packed adventure in New Zealand

columns our shared planet The courage to stand behind your convictions

single tracked Mud-soaked perambulation

y-axis Smith Rocks trip preparation

a trail of thought A whole new world

12 26 28 30

COVER: VICTORIAN BACKCOUNTRY

Buff Farnell and Drew Jolowicz on Hamburg with Razorback Ridge in the background. IMAGE CREDIT: Karl Gray

GO YOUR

OWN WAY

KICK-START ADVENTURE IN THE 3-LITRE, 430Nm, 6-SPEED ISUZU D-MAX The Isuzu D-MAX is a stand out performer on or off-road. With the legendary Isuzu 3-litre turbo diesel engine, a beefed up 430Nm of torque and an intuitive 6-speed transmission. Coupled with a Terrain Command 4WD system and 3.5 tonne towing capacity+, the D-MAX has everything you need to take on any adventure. Discover the Isuzu D-MAX at your Isuzu UTE Dealer or isuzuute.com.au

5-star ANCAP safety rating on 4x4 D-MAX Crew Cab models built from November 2013 onwards and 4x2 D-MAX Crew Cab High Ride models built from November 2014 onwards. +3.5 tonne braked towing capacity on D-MAX 4x4 and 4x2 High Ride models when fitted with an optional genuine Isuzu UTE tow bar kit. ^5 years/130,000km whichever occurs first, for eligible customers. Excludes trays and accessories. >The Capped Price Servicing Program (â&#x20AC;&#x153;CPS Programâ&#x20AC;?) applies to Eligible Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/1/15 at Participating Isuzu UTE Dealers only. The 5 years Capped Price Servicing covers the first 5 Scheduled Services for 18MY and later vehicle models for up to 5 years/75,000km (whichever occurs first) and for 16.5MY and 17MY for up to 5 years/50,000km (whichever occurs first). CPS Program is subject to change. For full terms & conditions and current pricing visit isuzuute.com.au/service-plus.

ed's letter W ho's w ho Winter camping anyone? PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

EDITORIAL Editor Aaron Flanagan Senior Designer Janina Roque Designer James Chandler Content Operations Danielle Beadman Contributors David Cauldwell, Cathy Anderson, Simon Carter, Simon Madden, Simon Bischoff, Huw Kingston, Ash Gray, Bel Smith, Richard Bowles, Rachael Oakes-Ash, Chris Hocking, Karl Gray, Patrick Kinsella, Monique Forestier, Megan Holbeck, Ali Millar, GlennWardle, Mark Watson Editorial and News 125 Hawthorn Rd, Caulfield North, Vic, 3161 Australia submissions@adventuresgroup.com.au

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SNOWBOUND

nce again, members of the global outdoor community have had to step in and fill the cavernous leadership vacuum left by the feckless go-nowhere ditherers in our global halls of power. Despite repeated and increasingly urgent advice tendered by Earth scientists, ideological nonsense-peddlers and selfish vested interests continue to hold sway over the policy direction of those charged with the responsibility of plotting and steering our future course. The fourth estate seems powerless to do anything; even repeated lying and demonstrated scandal is not enough to expel useless lawmakers from office. Instead they seem emboldened by their ability to avoid and shake-off responsibility. Rather than resile in shame, they stick around like a bad stink, giving themselves pay-rises, lost in a fog of their own self-importance. This would be amusing if it wasn’t for the alarming, continuing upward, existential-threatening trajectory of the climate hockey-stick graph. So it’s heartening to witness the likes of Patagonia’s Rick Ridgeway getting together with knowledgeable environmental advocates like Bob Brown to stand-up for places like Tasmania’s Tarkine. No-one’s saying it’s easy to protect places like the Tarkine, or that there’ll perhaps be negative consequences in doing so, but surely that’s what leadership’s about? Using the best intelligence available to come to a considered decision that'll have the best outcome for the majority, both now and into the future? Surely it’s a leader's responsibility to clearly and unambiguously map out what the future looks like and communicate how they intend to get us there. If they don’t, they should be cast out and held accountable for their inaction. Getting outside into the wilderness always reminds us why it’s important to speak up about protecting the world's pristine places. In this issue, for instance — among a host of compelling tales — we take a look at the burgeoning Australian backcountry scene and Megan Holbeck examines expectations around gender roles when it comes to mapping out epic trips away.

Aaron Flanagan 6

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HIMAYALA TREK

| Gender roles in adventure

A 90km pilgrimage over Ladakh's fabled GandaLa Pass

TREASURE THE TARKINE

| Soling Arapiles | Trek the

re The outdoor adventu ed community's continu push to protect the world's wilderness

100008799 PRINT POST APPROVED

TREASURE THE TARKINE

The outdoo r adventure community's continued push to pro tect the world's wilde rness

JUL-AUG 2018

$14.95

Jul/Aug 2018

PRINT POST APPROVED 10000 8799

Jul/Aug 2018

The inner conflict that besets climbing's most contentious style

HIMAYALA TREK

A 90km pil grimage over Ladak h's fabled GandaLa Pas s

Scottish highland s

Scottish highlands

SOLOING ARAPILES

36.8942째 S, 147 .1383째 E

Exceptional Australian backcountr y adventure s

Ladakh -

Ladakh - land of high passes

Exceptional Australian res backcountry adventu

SNOWBOUND

land of high pass es | Gender role s in adventure | Soling Arapiles | Trek the

SNOWBOUND

36.8942째 S, 147.1383째 E

OUTDOOR

JUL-AUG 2018

$14.95

SOLOING ARAPILES The inner conf lict besets climbing that 's most contentious styl e

TO SUBSCRIBE VISIT WWW.OUTDOORAUSTRALIA.COM/MAGAZINE

THIS MONTHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S EXPEDITION CREW Here they are again, this issue's array of unwashed and ornery ink slingers, suddenly appearing in the frame of an opened front door, a gale of sleet and snow accompanying their twitching eyes, back from beyond...with stories to tell.

PAT KINSELLA

Pat has long specialised in adventure journalism as a writer, photographer and editor. After working at Lonely Planet publications for several years he founded the adventure magazine Outer Edge in 2006, and later became the managing editor of a trio of outdoor pursuit publications: Outer Edge, Wild and Rock. Pat has also managed adventure media consultancy work for clients including Tourism Queensland and Voyages, has supplied event PR and media management for the Adventure Racing World Championships and has been involved in numerous adventure events.

DAVID CAULDWELL

David Cauldwell is an adventure travel writer who enjoys wearing the same clothes for days on end (preferably wet), all in the name of finding a secluded mountain peak and contemplating his existence. He's travelled to a variety of places around the globe to do this, most recently to Scotland's craggy highlands where he formed an intimate bond with haggis but avoided deep fried Mars Bars

SIMON MADDEN

An avid climber, Simon is co-editor of Vertical Life magazine with Ross Taylor, but one-ups his contemporary with his extended experience in snowsports. A writer and photographer, Simon also turns his hand to producing videos and together with Taylor, produced the definitive guide to Grampians bouldering.

ALI MILLAR

Ali Millar is a writer and editor with a passion for travel, a love of sleeping out under the stars and a penchant for finding out what’s around the next headland or over the next hill. She's spent considerable time bumping along Australia’s dusty outback tracks in a 4WD, exploring and writing about the far reaches of this vast country, living out of the car and setting up camp each evening with her partner, photographer Glenn Wardle. She has recently settled back in her home state of Tasmania, where the options for climbing misty mountains, trekking backcountry tracks, swimming in icy-cold streams and adventuring in the untamed wilds are pretty much endless.

MEGAN HOLBECK

Megan Holbeck is a Sydney-based writer who is constantly trying to find a way to squeeze a little adventure into her life. At the moment these escapes are bite sized - ocean swimming, camping, sailing, trail running and day walks - although she can occasionally sneak in a cheeky two week trip.

RACHAEL OAKES-ASH

From heli skiing to cat skiing, backcountry huts, apres ski parties and altitude spas, Rachael (aka: Miss Snow It All) has skied with and interviewed famous skiers and boarders Torah Bright, Chris Davenport, Shane McConkey, Mike Douglas, Anna Segal, Russ Henshaw, Byron and Jossi Wells, the Kuzma sisters and many more. She describes herself as a ski tragic first, journalist second and is Australia’s first mainstream snow blogger with thousands of snow articles published in the likes of ESPN Freeskiing, TIME, Action Asia, Harpers Bazaar, Grazia, Holidays with Kids, Chill Factor, Powderhound, South China Morning Post, Sun Herald, Australian Financial Review, Executive Style, Emirates Open Skies, Jetstar Magazine, Virgin Australia Voyeur Magazine and more. She's been writing about snow in mainstream and niche press, television and radio for nearly 15 years.

HUW KINGSTON

Huw is an adventurer, speaker, entrepreneur, former cafe owner, event director, environmentalist, writer, ski guide, mountain bike guide, tour leader and grandfather. This leaves him never short of a story to tell. And he does so with passion and humour. Whether running a complex sports event, galvanising a community campaign or organising an out there expedition, Huw has the ability to engage others with his dreams to make them possible.

Outdoor Exposure FOLLOW THE LEADER

Runners make their way upwards along a winnowy trail during the Ultra-Trail Australia 100, staged recently in NSW's Blue Mountains. PICTURE CREDIT: Mark Watson/ Incite Images

OUR shared planet

By Belinda Smith

Brumbies are an invasive species, so the NSW Government's decision to protect them is baffling PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

Time to stop horsing around The groundswell of interest in environmental issues at a grassroots level in Australia is encouraging, but governments and corporations really need to start lifting their game in order to match it.

t was World Environment Day on 5 June. Now in its 44th year, the United Nationsrun event is, “above all … the ‘people's day’ for doing something to take care of the Earth”. I like the idea behind it. Let’s get the issue of the environment at the forefront of our minds, if only for one day a year. Have us feel ownership of this planet. But increasingly, it’s the focus on

“the people” that saddens me. Sure, people can do all they can – composting, taking public transport, all the usual stuff – but when governments and corporations wilfully ignore science to pursue their own agendas, well, the effect of me dutifully separating my recycling feels diminished. A few days before World Environment Day, a

small pilot whale was found languishing in a canal near the Thailand/Malaysia border. It was clearly unwell, so people tried to give it a hand by using boats to help it float and covering it with a shade to keep it out of the tropical sun. Despite these rescue efforts, the whale convulsed, vomited five plastic bags and died. An autopsy found it had eaten more than 80

The Victorian Government has a better plan to capture and, if possible, rehome brumbies PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

plastic bags. Eight kilograms of plastic, clogging up the poor animal’s stomach. We’ve known for decades that the plastic pollution we churn out into the oceans destroys marine life. Yet supermarket chains continue to wrap bananas in plastic designed to be torn off and thrown out. Closer to home, on the very day after World Environment Day, New South Wales Parliament passed the Kosciuszko Wild Horse Heritage Bill 2018. The so-called “brumby bill” grants protection to the feral horses, an invasive species, that call the Kosciuszko National Park home. This was done despite the NSW Government's own Threatened Species Scientific Committee – comprising ecologists, biologists and environmental scientists appointed to advise on these matters – warning against it. The day after the bill passed, Charles Sturt University’s Professor Dave Watson, who has more than 20 years’ experience in ecology research, quit the Committee. In his resignation letter to NSW Environment Minister Gabrielle Upton, he wrote: “Science is not a special interest group … The wilful disregard that you and your government colleagues have for science diminishes our collective future, relegating our precious national parks and priceless environment to political playthings.” It wasn’t just the NSW Government’s in-house scientists who were ignored either. The Australian Academy of Science condemned the bill, calling the plan to protect an invasive species “incompatible with the principles that underpin Australia’s world-leading protected area system”. Andrew Cox, who heads the Invasive Species Council, was a little more direct. He said passing the bill has turned Australia into “a global laughing stock”. The International Union for Conservation of Nature weighed in on the matter too. The Director-General, Inger Andersen, sent a letter to Minister Upton, stating that the bill raised “substantial issues for protected area policy and will create poor precedents for Australia and beyond”. And it’s not like there aren’t other options. The weekend before the brumby bill passed, Victoria launched its Feral Horse Strategic Action Plan. Its aim is to protect native species in national parks by controlling the feral horse population. With its short, medium and long-term targets, the plan takes conservation and animal welfare into account. Its primary method of horse removal is purely passive. Wild horses will be lured into yards with tasty salt, molasses and lucerne. Once inside, a tripwire triggers a gate to close behind them. These animals will then be removed and, where possible, rehomed.

Organised pathways around the base for sightseers

Regardless, Minister Upton said in a speech that the new NSW bill struck “the right balance between protecting the environment and the heritage value of the brumbies that have been in the area for nearly 200 years”. So what about the heritage value of Indigenous Australians? There’s evidence that cultural sites in Victoria have been either directly destroyed by wild horses or exposed to damage through grazing and trampling. We need to save these special sites. And native plants and animals, too, need to be valued. The southern corroboree frog, a distinctive little yellow and black alpine creature, is listed as critically endangered by the federal Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act. Its natural habitat is restricted to the Kosciuszko National Park. It’s one of the rarest frogs in the world. And what will happen when the next hard winter means there’s no food for the swelling brumby population, leaving them to starve to death? Sure, they’re an invasive species, but they shouldn’t suffer. The brumby bill tramples on environmental and animal welfare. Disdain for scientific advice by entities that have the power to make sweeping changes that will benefit the natural world isn’t a new phenomenon. But, sadly, it looks like it’s becoming the new normal.

A FEW WAYS BRUMBIES DEGRADE THE AUSTRALIAN ENVIRONMENT Grazing. Horses preferentially graze on grasses, tussocks and heaths, which are critical habitats for threatened native animals such as the Smoky Mouse. Soil compaction. Horse hooves squash soil and mud in wet areas and create microhabitats for weed growth. Trampled and grazed ground also increases erosion. Trackways. In areas such as the Eastern Alps in Victoria, horses use worn paths. Animals walking these trackways can carry diseases and weeds.

news

Arctic Canada PICTURE CREDIT: Claudio von Planta

Cycling across Antarctica the ultimate goal for Kate. Outdoor caught up with Kate Leeming for a quick chat before she departed on a Finke River cycle adventure. Kate’s embarking on a number of what she describes as ‘preparatory adventures’ to build the fortitude she feels will be necessary during her quest to cycle across Antarctic via the South Pole. Outdoor: You've embarked on a number of big adventures, when did you start thinking that you'd like to do these type of epic-scaled expedition-style quests? I mean, was the seed of ambition planted early or was your ambition always there? KL: I was certainly inspired by the stories of my pioneering ancestors, such as that of my great, great uncle, William Snell who was the second person to cycle across the Nullarbor, when he rode from Menzies in the Western Australian goldfields to Melbourne, in order to propose to his childhood sweetheart. After she accepted, he put her on a boat bound for Fremantle and cycled all the way back again. My great grandfather, George Waters

Leeming, after whom the Perth suburb was named, surveyed an area south of the Swan River, a lot of land around Northam and in the far north of the Kimberley region. There is a Mt Leeming near Kalumburu — a small mound though it is! Then there was my mother’s father, Cyril Jenner, who fought on the Western Front in World War 1, survived and then battled to make ends meet on a soldier settlement farm in marginal country in WA. I was inspired by, and have a great respect for all pioneers and early explorers, especially the Australian and Antarctic explorers, but I never could have imagined what I could achieve on a bike. I didn’t have the confidence to explore by bicycle until I first travelled to the UK, initially playing hockey for my university, and after, did a

small trip in Ireland. Then I planned a much more extensive journey in France and Spain, and that is where I discovered my passion and started to understand what could be done travelling by bicycle. When I was planning my first major journey across Russia, I met British polar explorer Robert Swan OBE, the first person to have walked to both the North and South poles. It was Robert who taught me that there could be far more value to what I was doing than simply riding a bike. The Trans-Siberian Cycle Expedition, as I called it, was not only the first bicycle crossing of the new Russia, from St Petersburg to Vladivostok by a woman, I also raised funds to benefit the 800,000 children affected by the Chernobyl disaster, an issue close to my heart.

At Kap Tobin, the most southerly point of Liverpool Land, Northeast Greenland. PICTURE SUPPLIED

Arctic Canada. Kate leaving Shingle Point. PICTURE CREDIT: Claudio von Planta

Hurry Fjord, Northeast Greenland. PICTURE SUPPLIED

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In California's Baja Divide, south. PICTURE CREDIT: Chris Pennington

California's Baja Divide, north. PICTURE CREDIT: Chris Pennington

Aurora Borealis, Iceland. PICTURE CREDIT: Tristan Brailey

Outdoor: After several completed expeditions, has the strength of your ambition wavered or diminished? KL: Each expedition becomes a part of who I am, and these journeys serve to open my eyes to what is really possible; to positively influence the next vision. With experience, I seem to be able to raise my sights, not only to achieve the physical side of a challenging, original journey, but also I am equally ambitious and motivated to use my skills and opportunities to make a difference to the people and places I visit and the issues I care about. I have learned that it is a great privilege to be able to undertake my projects and I am endeavouring to maximise the opportunities created from them. I also understand that my capacity to achieve the physical wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t last forever, so I am trying to be discerning with the projects I choose and to develop a legacy, especially with regard to education. Outdoor: Your career choice, and academic efforts so far, suggest you have an earnest desire to help people

become better. Is this something you strive to do during your expeditions? By this I mean setting yourself as an example from which others may derive inspiration? KL: Being a role model, especially for women and girls, is an important aspect of my work. One of the greatest motivations and biggest pleasures I receive from my expeditions is when I discover the actions that others have taken, inspired by my activities. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessarily mean for others to jump on a bike and cycle across a continent, more that they explore to discover their own passions and take action about issues they care about. I also would like those who are inspired to see the big picture, to understand better how they fit into the world and consider how their local actions fit into the global community. Outdoor: What sort of obstacles does one face during one of these long, relentless expeditions? KL: Built into the longer expeditions is the expectation to be adaptable. I always have an

Here and below: Visiting the International School of Iceland. PICTURE CREDIT: Tristan Brailey

overall mission and a timeframe (usually set by a tight budget, the seasons, various commitments and what I believe I am capable of), but the hardest part is to make it happen in the first place. The organisation, and particularly finding the funding when I am trying to create something original and challenging, is always the most difficult. To do that, I have to believe in the missions and be realistic about what is achievable. During the expedition, there are always times when I am challenged physically and mentally. Then, when I am forced to question what I am doing, I find it is essential that I can revert back to a tangible purpose behind what I am doing. If I believe in the mission and it is from the heart, and I am buoyed by the support I have from followers and sponsors, whom I would never want to let down, then I can always find a way through the difficult times.

Outdoor: Is the adventure itself the easy part? KL: Pulling off the adventure is what I am best at; knowing how to pace myself and mitigate risks to be able to repeat the effort day after day, week after week and month after month is perhaps my strongest suit. That is the bottom line from which I can build my ideas and develop the bigger picture. I think of my projects like a work of art; I begin with an idea and create a vision, which is like starting with a blank canvas and sketching out the scene. To research and organise the project is like forming the outlines and introducing the shading. To perform the journey is to add the details and colours. And finally, once the expedition is completed successfully, to have the ability to analyse and document the story and sell it, is like framing and presenting the work of art for all to see. Outdoor: How will your just completed Finke River expedition help you realise your ultimate goal to be the first person to cycle across Antarctica via the South Pole? KL: Cycling on sandy surfaces requires similar skills to cycling over snow. Both surfaces are soft, variable and difficult to read. I constantly have to focus on the surface just ahead of my front wheel to be prepared to adapt my balance with each pedal stroke. The techniques are similar; to keep the bike in a smaller gear than I normally would to give the option to power out of a soft or unstable spot if necessary. Good core strength is

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Kate Leeming's challenge has been named Breaking the Cycle, South Pole. PICTURE CREDIT: Phil Coates

essential. Cycling over sand or snow for long periods of time requires the same mental approach and the same intense focus. I cannot worry about maintaining a certain average speed, more I just have to find a steady rhythm and keep the pedals turning. Outdoor: How did you decide on the idea to be the first to cycle across Antarctica? KL: Antarctica has always been a place I've been intrigued by, especially by the achievements of the polar explorers of the heroic age. Visiting the Antarctic continent in the early 1900s would be like us travelling to Mars. Antarctica is also very relevant to the world — it's the driver of the global climate system; a harsh frozen continent that is most susceptible to the burning of fossil fuels and thereby increasing the levels of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere. It is the last great wilderness and needs to be protected. Outdoor: What are the immediate challenges you face in achieving this goal? KL: Now that I have completed four polar training expeditions and facilitated the development of the first all-wheel-drive fat bike, with tyres that provide maximum flotation, I believe I am ready to make a successful journey across the continent via the South Pole. The immediate challenge – and key issue holding me back – is finding the funding.

Tackling the terrain of Iceland. PICTURE CREDIT: Tristan Brailey

Outdoor: How do you imagine the cycle will go? Have you started visualising what it will be like? What do you imagine the physical challenges and dangers to be? KL: To make a successful crossing of the Antarctic continent by bicycle will take the culmination of all my experience as an expedition cyclist; my mental and physical strength. As long as I listen to my body be well-prepared and implement what I have learned over the last five years, I am confident that I can do it. But at the same time, I take nothing for granted. Antarctica will ask big questions of my character and resolve and I will have to dig deep, but I am quietly confident, that once I reach the start line, I will be able to reach the finish line. There are dangers – crevasses and exposure to extreme cold being the main threats – but mitigating the risks are the main game and with my meticulous preparation and the support of such an experienced team, I’m sure we will meet and overcome any challenge that presents.

Long shadows on Canadian Arctic snow. PICTURE CREDIT: Claudio von Planta

â&#x20AC;&#x153;To make a successful crossing of the Antarctic continent by bicycle will take the culmination of all my experience as an expedition cyclist; my mental and physical strengthâ&#x20AC;?

Find your own authentic alpine adventure at Mt Stirling, a hidden gem of the Australian Alps, only three hours from Melbourne.

Discover unspoilt backcountry terrain and untouched powder bowls, experience snow-camping beneath vast mountain skies, or explore the natural wilderness on a snowshoe hike or cross country skis.

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Mycena interrupta. PICTURE CREDIT: Arwen Dyer

Outdoor clothing giant adds weight to Tarkine. Outdoor recently caught up with Patagonia's Vice President Rick Ridgeway about his efforts to protect a significant Australian ecosystem.

utdoor clothing giant Patagonia has joined forces with the Bob Brown Foundation to give Tasmania's Tarkine region World Heritage protection status and return it to Aboriginal ownership. Last month Patagonia's Vice President Rick Ridgeway, a renowned mountaineer and adventurer, came to Australia to throw his weight behind the campaign. The battle for the Tarkine has been ongoing. In 2013, the Australian Heritage Council found it to be of outstanding heritage value and recommended it be entered on the National Heritage List. However, the Bob Brown Foundation says the Australian Government failed to list the full recommended area. The Foundation says the Aboriginal heritage coastline still suffers severe damage from offroad vehicles. It says the Tarkine remains a stronghold for the Earth’s largest living marsupial carnivore, the Tasmanian Devil, and is prime habitat for

giant wedge-tailed eagles, white goshawks, quolls, wombats and platypuses. Patagonia has now joined forces with the Foundation, launching a new film to raise global awareness of the destructive impact of the mining and logging industries, and prepared a petition calling for signatures from around the globe to deliver to the Tasmanian State Premier Will Hodgman and the Australian Federal Government. Ridgeway says Patagonia is deeply committed to supporting environmental causes and the Tarkine has, “significant global importance because of its unique ecosystem, which deserves support from the threats facing it from clear felling and mining, and continued practice of offroad vehicles, especially along [the] coast”. “I remember squatting on beach next to Bob Brown and examining types of shells and abalones and imagining people living on that coastline. Experiencing the uniqueness of whole

Rick Ridgeway and Bob Brown. PICTURE SUPPLIED

The stunning Tarkine Coast. PICTURE CREDIT: Paul Hoelen

Exploring the protected Tarkine. PICTURE CREDIT: Pete Harmsen

eco-system has been a valuable experience for me personally,” he says. “Who are we to go in with chainsaws and take down this deep history of our planet? Those trees are being clear felled, burnt and sprayed with chemicals to kill any other living organism ... and to see that … we should be embarrassed at our behaviour.” He says the main opposition is coming from logging and mining, and it's vitally important to work out how to transition those people. “We are taking a multi-pronged approach. We've produced a film in hopes of getting support of citizens of Tasmania and we want to engage the political community to get more support for this. We also want to support Bob Brown's proposal to build a hiking track across the Tarkine.” He says they also need to identify other stakeholders who can be involved in a partnership to protect the area. “This is a big and wild area and it's under real threat and from our experience in working in similar forests we know that clear felling can take an area 500 to 1000 years to regenerate ...

Tarkine rainforest track. PICTURE CREDIT: Alice Hansen

and that is such permanent destruction that we really have to do something about that now because who wants to be responsible for an action that's going to take 10 generations to recover from.” “I am so personally committed to stopping this in my lifetime. The Aboriginal places are emotional and moving and will stay with you forever.” Bob Brown says having Patagonia, and Ridgeway personally, involved in this project is "inspiring and the international attention will undeniably help save the Tarkine".

He says his enthusiasm is palpable and while he was here, a donation of $10,000 came out of Melbourne alone. Brown highlights the importance of protecting the region as not only because of the ecosystem, but the jobs it provides, saying 30 per cent of the population in Tasmania work in tourism and hospitality. "So clearly keeping trees vertical and not horizontal going to wood chip is important locally," he says. Brown says Ridgeway is already planning a return to the region.

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The stunning plains of Kakadu. PICTURE CREDIT: Jane Barnes

The iconic Larapinta Trail. PICTURE CREDIT: Latonia Crockett

Views aplenty at Kakadu NP. PICTURE CREDIT: Jason van Miert

Katherine Gorge. PICTURE CREDIT: Natalie Sum

Trekking in Australia's Top End has never been better, or more accessible. Australia's Top End is home to the some of world's most ancient trekking sites. This winter, one of Australia's most experienced adventure tour operators and Tourism NT have joined forces to help make the Never Never more accessible than ever.

ustralian Walking Holidays has teamed up with Tourism NT to offer $250 gift vouchers to Larapinta walkers and cutting prices on two of its most popular walking adventures in the Top End. The first 300 Larapinta Trail trekkers to book a walk in July and travel this season will receive a $250 gear voucher from Wild Earth, and anyone booking the Jatbula Trail or Kakadu Walking

Adventure will enjoy big savings, too. So, if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been thinking about escaping the cold and heading to the NT, nowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s probably the best time to book. Australian Walking Holidays, the domestic division of the World Expeditions Travel Group who pioneered the trail in 1995, has an amazing range of walking trips on the stunning Larapinta, including the six-day Classic

Katherine Gorge at sunset. PICTURE CREDIT: Chrystal Hutchinson

“Swim in peaceful waterholes hidden deep within the West MacDonnell Ranges, marvel at the stunning rock formations at Simpson's Gap, Standley Chasm and Serpentine Gorge, climb Mount Sonder for a spectacular sunrise and gain insight into the rich history of Australia's traditional owner's indigenous culture.” Larapinta Trek in Comfort, the nine-day Best of the Larapinta Trail and the six, nine and 12-day self-guided Larapinta Trail treks. The award-winning, six-day Classic Larapinta Trek in Comfort, which is one of the 13 Great Walks of Australia, is guided trekking. Walkers carry only a day pack and enjoy the facilities of comfortable, semi-permanent eco campsites – including hot showers and lounge facilities, and accommodation in off-ground beds in stand-up tents. The nine-day Best of the Larapinta Trail is also guided, with walkers carrying only daypacks, and features wilderness camping under the Milky Way. The self-guided treks are best suited to more confident walkers who enjoy self-sufficiency and travelling at their own pace, but who also appreciate the logistics – such as lightweight food, equipment, maps and transfers to and from the trail – being organised for them. Whichever way you choose to experience the iconic Larapinta Trail, you’ll have the opportunity to swim in peaceful waterholes hidden deep within the West MacDonnell Ranges, marvel at the stunning rock formations at Simpson's Gap, Standley Chasm and Serpentine Gorge, climb Mount Sonder for a spectacular sunrise and gain insight into the rich history of Australia's traditional owner's Indigenous culture. Further north, the promotion means savings on two of the most popular walking adventures in the Top End. You will save $200 on the Jatbula Trail and $250 on the Kakadu Walking Adventure if you book in July and travel before 31 August, 2018. Save $200 and pay $1795 (down from $1995) on the six-day fully guided, full pack Jatbula Trail, which includes five-nights campsite accommodation, all meals, services of expert guides throughout as well as transfers to and from Darwin. On the Kakadu Walking Adventure, you’ll save $250 and pay $2245 (down from $2495), a deal which includes five-nights exclusive semi-permanent campsite accommodation, all your meals, expert guide throughout, transfers and transport. More information and terms and conditions at www.australianwalkingholidays.com.au or phone 1300 767 381.

Swimming in paradise – Kakadu NP. PICTURE CREDIT: Peter Walton

news Off piste and loving it PICTURE CREDIT: Thredbo Resort

Thredbo Backcountry Tours now supported by The North Face One of the world’s leading outdoor adventure brands is adding its wealth of experience to help develop a first-class off-piste dimension to an iconic Australian winter resort destination.

Incredible and unique terrain. PICTURE CREDIT: Thredbo Resort

ooking for another adventure on your skis or board? This winter, enjoy a guided Backcountry Adventure outside of the resort boundaries, where you’ll not only learn important backcountry safety skills but also ski and board some incredible and unique terrain. There’s a backcountry adventure for everyone, ranging from green, blue and black adventures — each one tailored to an individual’s specific level of knowledge and ability. The Thredbo guides are among the most experienced in the country, having gained extensive backcountry knowledge from exploring the mountains for many years. They

are first-aid trained, hold avalanche certification and carry appropriate emergency equipment. Every guest will be provided with a North Face backcountry pack containing a beacon, probe and shovel. Snowshoes, splitboards and touring skis are available for rental, so you don’t need to purchase any gear beforehand.

Backcountry Tours will run on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday each week from the beginning of July pending weather and snow conditions. Tours require a minimum of two guests to run and take a maximum of four guests per tour. See our backcountry ski feature in this issue, starting p42.

BOOKS, MOVIES, CULTURE LAST STORIES,

A LIFE UNDERWATER,

William Trevor.

Viking, $29.99

Charlie Veron.

Viking, $26.95

sublime collection of short stories that meander through universal lores and psychic conflict faced everyday in ordinary life. Trevor, a Cork-born Irishman, has been compared to the master of short story prose, Anton Chekov, and reading through these beautifully constructed stories, the comparison with Chekov’s genius in depicting dramatic virtues present in ordinary life, is no stretch. I read this in my tent while in the Himalayas trekking from 3500m to 5100m. As I rested, breathing deeply, running constant self-diagnosis, checking how my body was dealing with the high altitude, I realised this exact predicament — personal self-reflection, constant self-analysis — is Trevor’s subject matter. He posits himself outside his character’s inner turmoil, dips in and delicately constructs then expresses the consciousness of characters as believably real as someone you'd likely first meet down the shops, or while waiting for the bus. Addicted, as we all seem to be, on packets of haphazard words shot down the pipe via phones and portable internet-connected screens, it’s a delight to read writerly craft in its most perfect form. Absolutely exquisite.

ince first scuba diving at eighteen, Charlie Veron has logged more than six-thousand hours underwater observing a fair slab of the undersea world. The data and analysis he’s collected from these efforts has enriched the world’s understanding of coral reefs. Now, as these same reefs face existential threats posed by climate change, his role, similar to all scientists who specialise in earth sciences, has been necessarily rejigged into one that must also communicate truth to a largely skeptical public. A Life Underwater does this by describing the tireless passion and rigorous work ethic that goes into a life’s work. He’s been hailed by David Attenborough, proclaimed a second Charles Darwin, and described by famous Australian conservationist Tim Flannery as “one of my heroes”. “Charlie Veron isn’t just a coral scientist, he’s a pathfinder, a scout who’s been sending back dispatches on the future of the planet for decades,” says Australian author Tim Winton. “If ever there was a moment for Australians to listen up and act on what he’s learnt, it’s now".

WELCOME TO COUNTRY,

NJINGA,

Marcia Langton.

Vivid, $44.95

BREAKING THE CYCLE, Kate Leeming.

Hardie Grant, $39.99

angton is a fearsome advocate for indigenous self-determination and this beautiful book is a testament to this. It’s designed to be a reference at-hand travel compendium while touring Australia, similar to any travel guide you may have in the glovebox or backpack, but one wholly focused on sites connected to Aboriginal Australia folklore. "I don't think many Australians are aware of the continuing legacy of Aboriginal people since the arrival of Europeans, and that's very unfortunate," she said during an interview at the book’s launch. "That's why I raise these issues in the book." "Whether you're Australian or whether you're from another country, if you turn up in an Aboriginal area and start asking questions without an understanding of the history that's gone before it, it could be very embarrassing not just for the visitor, but for the traditional owners. "That's why I felt it was essential to explain some of that history — so that people can have a regard for the feelings of their hosts." There’s never been a travel book like it; an indispensable guide for anyone touring Australia.

world-first cycle expedition across Africa from Senegal to Somalia The story of Kate Leeming’s astonishing 22,000-kilometre trek by bicycle across Africa – dodging rebels, insurgents and Somali pirates and exotic and dangerous wildlife while battling extreme conditions from desert to jungled terrain on non-existent roads and faint tracks, is more than a story of mental grit and physical endurance. It is a fascinating exploration of African history: of powerful kings and forgotten empires; of sophisticated learned civilisations and intricate spiritual beliefs and traditions; of unimaginable exploitation of human life and the environment; of brutal politics and endemic corruption. Through it all, the enduring spirit of the often-misnamed ‘Dark Continent’ shines brightly. Kate’s path is blessed with the smiles, the songs and dance and abounding kindness of people whose character remains uncrushed by the injustice of poverty. Njinga, the story of Kate Leeming’s journey, continuously reveals the truth of Africa and its diverse people and cultures. It is a perspective that could only be gained on a bicycle, by an explorer who has cycled the equivalent of twice around the world at the Equator.

SINGLE TRACKed

By Ash Gray

Fisheye delight PICTURE CREDIT: 2017 Flow MTB/Tourism NT

Sunset cruising PICTURE CREDIT: 2017 Flow MTB/Tourism NT

Mud, glorious mud A monstrous Outdoor seasonal roostertail of a singletrack update. Basically, to paraphrase: stock up on OMO and avoid white riding gear until spring.

usually find the sound of rain on a tin roof peaceful. The rhythmic tapping of raindrops is calming and relaxing. After a long, dry summer which stretched well into autumn, the rain brings relief to the parched land and the sound is, at first, quite unfamiliar. But it feels like we’ve had weeks on end of this now-deafening drumming. After all, I am penning this from the mountains around Melbourne, where the clouds hang so low that it’s hard to imagine the dry, sunny days of only a few weeks ago. Like many in southern Australia, for the next few months I can only dream of fast and dusty trails. Riding now consists of puddle hopping, waterlogged shoes and a rooster tail, mud-splattered back. The same trails I could ride with my eyes closed just weeks ago are now a battle for survival with wet roots, rocks and slick clay trying their best to rip my wheels out from underneath me. As much as I love this new challenge, the endless clothes washing, bike cleaning and scraping mud out from behind my eyeballs has got me thinking. A migratory pilgrimage north to enjoy an endless summer of riding may be just what I need. It’s easy to see why Australia is called the Alice offers great scenery and no rain in winter. PICTURE CREDIT: 2017 Flow MTB/Tourism NT

Lucky Country. Without needing a visa, the hassle of customs or an international flight, we can escape the winter weather and be riding on amazing trails in just a few hours and for only a few hundred bucks for the airfare. While the majority of Australian mountain bikers and trails exist in the southern states, Far North Queensland and the Northern Territory dangle a tantalising cherry for us Mexicans, with their stunning scenery, world class trails and beautiful weather to boot! Topping the list of MTB destinations up north has to be Cairns. The city is steeped in Australian mountain biking history. Cairns hosted Australia’s first mountain bike World Championships way back in ‘96 and again in 2017. The sheer number of technical trails make it a perfect breeding ground for elite riders like multi-World Cup winning siblings Tracy and Mick Hannah, as well as a whole swag of other top level mountain bikers who have headed abroad to show off the skills they perfected in the rainforest trails around Cairns. But Cairns isn’t just for the pros. With more than 550km of trails in the region, there is a trail to suit every style and ability level. The Smithfield Trails are closest to town, but just a short drive away sees you at the trail networks of the Atherton Tablelands to the south or the Daintree to the north. And that’s just the start. While a warm coffee break during a winter ride down south can be heartwarming, nothing beats a refreshing beer and a beach swim after a day of riding rainforest trails – just skip the beach during stinger season! But if rocky, dry trails, surrounded by spectacular desert scenery are more up your alley, Alice Springs is the answer. While midday

summer rides may be out of the question, during the winter Alice Springs averages around 20C and only sees a few days of rain each month. The main trailhead is at the historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station, where bikes can be hired and the signposted single tracks make it easy for out-of-towners to find their way. But with some local knowledge, you will have access to another hundred or so kilometers of trails around town. More trails are also being built on the other side of the Stuart Highway around Araluen and are due for completion later this year. And, thanks to $12 million from the NT Government, a 200km green (easy) rated trail is to be built, linking the Alice Springs Desert Park in town with Glen Helen in the West MacDonnell Ranges. Dubbed the Red Centre Adventure Ride, this will be a multi-day ride featuring purposebuilt campsites set amongst this awe-inspiring backdrop. Further north, trail networks exist around Darwin at Casuarina, Howard Springs and the Charles Darwin National Park. For a state with a population of around a quarter of a million, the Territory packs a punch with a heap of unique trails supported by a government keen to see the sport and mountain bike-based tourism grow. Alice Springs and Cairns are Australia's go-to winter riding destinations, but there are also a bunch of smaller spots like Kununurra, Karratha and Townsville which are home to MTB trails. So no matter where your winter travels take you, there is a good chance that some epic biking isn’t too far away. Come spring, long after the cost of the airfare is forgotten, the only thing you will regret is that you didn’t head north in the winters of years gone by!

Attacking out of the sun PICTURE CREDIT: 2017 Flow MTB/Tourism NT

Berming beauties PICTURE CREDIT: 2017 Flow MTB/Tourism NT

Alice Springs Mountain Bike Trails. PICTURE CREDIT: Shaana McNaught 2016/Tourism NT

The world seems better when viewed from the saddle PICTURE CREDIT: 2017 Flow MTB/Tourism NT

Be prepared to handle all the good stuff that Alice Springs will throw at you. PICTURE CREDIT: 2017 Flow MTB/Tourism NT

y-axis By Monique Forestier Pics: Simon Carter

Mike Doyle, pitch two of The Backbone (13a), with Monique Forestier belaying, Monkey Face, Smith Rock, Oregon, USA.

Monique Forestier, Dreamin' (12a), Smith Rock, Oregon, USA.

Oh, the places you'll go! Planning a rock climbing trip is exciting — and the rigorous fitness training required is always worth the effort. But sometimes even the more experienced climbers among us have moments where they realise their preparation is a little underdone.

limbing has given me many wonderful things and I've let it be my compass, guiding me all over the world; to the wondrous karst formations piercing the emerald waters of Ha Long Bay in Vietnam, to the giddying heights of the Verdon Gorge in France and to the granite massifs in the wild west of Madagascar. Climbing has given me an alternate 'reason to travel', and when I started this whole climbing trip caper thing, I never could have imagined the places I’d go. My approach to any climbing trip is, in a nutshell, getting full value from my time away. If you were going to trek the Annapurna circuit, in the lead-up you’d do some walking with a weighted pack and wear-in your hiking shoes, right? As a professional climber, my climbing trips are usually entwined with a very specific climbing goal. I’m super motivated and always training, but there’s nothing like having a trip on the horizon and I eagerly use that trip as a big fat carrot dangling on the end of a long stick to my full advantage. In this way, I have a reason to turn up to the

gym when I’m feeling tired. It’s the reason I complete my full workout, not 80 percent of it, and it’s the reason why I push harder. Simply, that carrot is the only thing that keeps my motivation high and my excuses nil. I may be working 'in the now', but I’m dreaming of 'what may be' in the future – the trip. My physical preparation is quite specific – it's methodical and it's matched to the area I’m going to visit. For example, my last trip was to Smith Rock in Oregon. It’s the birthplace of modern sport climbing in the USA. A little research shows that the rock is predominately volcanic tuff and the cliff faces are vertical, or slabs, as we climbers call them. This area influences a very technical style of climbing because one wrong move and you’re off. Imagine being a fly, suction cupping its way up a window pane. Now imagine the precision and strength a climber needs to be able to scale a vertical rock face having only tiny features to hold on to. Keeping that image in mind, I set out to become that fly. Part of my training was to do mileage on vertical slabs, to get used to trusting

Monique Forestier, To Bolt or Not to Be (14a), Smith Rock, Oregon, USA.

Monique Forestier with her daughter Coco Carter at Smith Rock.

"T here’s nothing like having a trip on the horizon, and I eagerly use that trip as a big fat carrot dangling on the end of a long stick to my full advantage"

my feet and improving my finger (contact) strength. As much as I wanted to, there was no point me training like a monkey doing laps on the overhanging walls at the gym when realistically I was soon going to become that fly. My training consisted of two strength and conditioning sessions (per week), one climbingsession outdoors on rock (for the fun of it), and two 1km swim sessions for active recovery. My climbing specific training included three gym sessions per week, two of which were boulder sessions (training like a monkey; not ideal) but chased down with a 'Moon Board' session of 10 problems max to ensure my finger strength was getting fully worked. I figured any more than that and I’d do a finger injury before I left. I continued this for six weeks and then tapered off a week out. Finally, to Smith Rock. It’s simply stunning – more beautiful than I imagined even after having seen all the pictures. To get there, you pass residential blocks only a few rows deep off the highway, then its' farmlands, green pastures, white fences and so many horses that even Coco (my daughter) lost count. Beyond that it's mainly arid desert stretching to the far horizon until it eventually bumps into snow-capped mountains. Then, out of nowhere Kapow! A series of tortured

teeth lancing the earth and making for the sky. Glorious! In terms of the climbing, it's halfway between what I expected and what I didn't. Yes, the cliff faces were vertical and the rock was coarse but the climbing routes stayed in the sun for most of the day, which was a big problem because climbing in the sun quickly wears down finger skin and reduces friction. So, you may ask: how did the trip pan out? We all had an amazing adventure. Simon (my husband) got his photos, and Coco and I got our climbing miles done. But unfortunately I was sidelined for far too many days, more than I’d like to count, because of one simple thing – lack of skin on the fingers. Not every time do I get the preparation spot-on, but I try to learn from my mistakes. The long and short of it was that I simply didn’t do enough miles 'on rock' beforehand to get my finger skin 'in condition'. Despite all my training, it still took about two weeks of climbing on rock before my fingertips felt toughened enough to enable me to really hold on to the sharp tiny handholds and fully utilise my strength. If only the trip had been two weeks longer. I learnt, I had fun, and that big fat carrot is already dangling there for my next grand adventure!

Monique Forestier, To Bolt or Not to Be (14a), Smith Rock, Oregon, USA.

A trail of thought

By Richard Bowles

The coldest love story (season) of the year If you bunker down indoors and hibernate over winter you're not only missing some incredible nature experiences, but invaluable training opportunities too, writes ultra-long distance specialist Richard Bowles.

Trail running in bleak conditions build mental toughness, which is great news for your running regime in warmer months . PICTURE CREDIT: Getty

inter – is it a time to hang up the trail kicks as the days shorten and the mercury drops to shiver-inducing depths, or an opportunity to have a better offroad running experience? Optimistic souls from the south might head to the hills to escape the icy bombardment of winds blowing in from the Antarctic. And yet, opposite to this, up in the tropical north, keen runners most probably welcome the break from the blistering heat and humidity that looms heavily throughout summer in favour of appealing temperate rus. Either way, I think there's definitely distinct positives for runners who venture out into the unique pristine majesty of winter. From the alpine white-dusted mountains of the Himalayas to the ice-carved valleys of the Nordic countries, you've likely double tapped that postcard scene in a social post or dribbled over glossy pages of such landscapes in this very magazine. Runner or not, there is something very captivating about a crisp, atmospheric and frigid location that has us yearning to be there. The ever-changing contest of man vs the elements is a big part of trail running and, like the frosty image landscapes depicting this you itch over, the winter season brings this challenging dynamic to the trail. Of course, the outdoors looks different across all seasons, but we sometimes miss the beauty and benefits of running trails during the coldest and most austere time of the year. Frigid temperatures and precipitation make for misty mountain mornings, lingering fog among the trees and, when the conditions drop a little more, frosty crunchy goodness underfoot. The new sounds and sights of winter make your senses acute, honing them in on the magic of the season, a period when nature turns barren in the cold. Those thickly leafed trees and dense shrub

Vegetation strips back and skies open up for runners in winter. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty

foliage now left as twigs and sticks expand the horizon and open up to an arrangement of clouds that never leave the sky in the winter; striding under them towards any summit brings the feeling of being closer to the ceiling of the world. Solitude is guaranteed as the trails become deserted once the temperature drops, offering a greater feeling of detachment from the world; perhaps even pricking the senses to a heightened awareness of particular wintery elements of danger if things go wrong, adding fresh insight and necessary caution to any trail. How about an adventure on a night run without actually being out during the night? As the days get shorter and the darkness nearer, heading out on the trail in the early evening lets you run under the winter night sky, under different constellations to the summer months. A water droplet on a frozen branch, the exhaled

fog of your warm breath meeting the cold air illuminated in the yellow glow of your head-torch beam as it dances lightly over the trail ahead. Finally, to put on my coach's hat: running in the cold builds mental strength and courage, assisting you to face-up and get used to offroad dangers and to tolerate a little more pain. If trail running when conditions are bleak builds mental toughness as well as physiological grit — enabling you to tolerate more discomfort — by definition you're going to be able to take on longer and more demanding trails come the warmer months. Still not convinced? Well, then think about the post winter-run benefits — a hot shower, roaring log fire, a hot chocolate or a red wine. Surely these allures in themselves means you'll lace-up and head out into the cold? Stay warm!

Adventure Scottish Highlands trekking

Nature's

CASTLE Outdoor dons the clamp-ons and wields the ice axe to go Munro-bagging in the Scottish Highlands. WORDS Dav id Ca uldwel l

Adventure Scottish Highlands trekking

Could this be Scotland’s most scenic toilet? PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

"It looks like something out of "

Psycho

sit, staring at a dummy dressed like a grandma. It sits beside a crackling fire in the Falls of Dochart pub. My hiking partner and uncle, Mike, looks around. “Maybe that’s why this place is empty,” he replies, as a morose-looking waitress plonks his meal on the table. “Have you ever been hunting for one of these?” Mike pokes a steaming haggis with his fork. I shake my head. “These furry fellas can only be found in the Scottish Highlands,” he says, pointing out of the window. “They’ve got one leg shorter than the other so they can balance on steep hills.” I frown. “So what happens if they turn around?” “They fall over.” Scotland is a place of myths and legends. The legend of the Haggis, however, isn’t worthy of any historical tome, especially since haggis is actually suet, oatmeal, spices and sheep’s innards all mixed together and boiled in the woolly bleater’s stomach. “Depending on a person’s gullibility,” says Mike, “you may actually get someone out on the hill hunting for one.”

A sad ending for this highland local. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

Looking back to Meall nan Tarmachan. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

HOW WET CAN IT GET? Over the next four days Mike and I won’t be seeing any haggis in the frosted wilderness of the Southern Highlands. And, having heard the weather forecast, it doesn’t seem as though we’ll be seeing much of anything. Only last week I’d been in an Australian heatwave sweltering in 40 degrees. Up on the Scottish peaks, it’s going to be 57 degrees cooler with the wind-chill factor. 'How wet can it get?' screams the headline from the Killin News. It’s accompanied by pictures of a flooded caravan park and washed-out streets a fortnight ago. Mike and I will be walking around the surrounds of the remote Killin township. A river cascades through the wee hamlet, and the Falls of Dochart, a favourite Scottish beauty spot, gush beneath an historical bridge and past a cemetery. One person long dead (aside from stuffed grandma) is Hugh Munro, an avid climber and surveyor who, in 1891, published a table listing Scottish peaks more than 3000ft ( 915m). These peaks are called Munros. At last count there were 283. Munrobagging may sound like the senseless kidnapping of Scottish people, but it’s a term given to hill-walkers who summit any of these peaks. Once hikers have bagged every Munro, they are said to have ‘compleated’ (from the archaic spelling) a round. With God at his side, the Reverend AE Robertson is believed to be the first person to have bagged all Munros back in 1901. Doubts remain whether he climbed the ominous pillar of basalt dubbed the Inaccessible Pinnacle on Skye. If he didn’t, then the first compleatist was Ronald Burn who bagged a brace in 1923.

Mike disappears in the spindrift at the lonely summit of Meall nan Tarmachan. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

The Falls of Dochart gush beneath an historical bridge and past a cemetery. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

Adventure Scottish Highlands trekking

Climbing over a stile en r oute to Meall nan Tarmachan. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

"I'm a Munro virgin, although the Tarmachan Ridge is about to break me in"

Loch Tay glimmers below Tarmachan Ridge. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

It's a brisk -17C atop Meall nan Tarmachan. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

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Sunrise over Loch Tay is a mesmerising sight. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

TAMING THE TARMACHAN I’m a Munro virgin, although the Tarmachan Ridge is about to break me in. The ridge is an impressive series of undulating tops presiding over Killin. The highest peak on the walk, Meall nan Tarmachan ( 1043m) is a Munro. A blue sky blazes. The temperature hovers just above zero. Snow covers everything. And it’s making the going tough. One minute we’re happily crunching along; the next we’re up to our waist in it. A blustery headwind makes progress up Meall nan Tarmachan (‘round hill’ translated from Gaelic) incredibly slow. We reach a really steep section just before the summit. Mike withdraws his ice axe. This innocuous-looking stretch is prime suspect for an avalanche. He digs a snow pit to check the stability of the slope. There are several inches of surface snow, which hasn’t compacted; it’s too unstable to risk it. Instead, we detour up a rocky crag, affixing our cramp-ons and digging in with our ice axes. A rasping wind heralds our arrival at the summit. I have to lean strongly to the side to stay upright. Ahead, hills of powdery white roll in every direction. Loch Tay glimmers distantly below, snaking its way to the outskirts of Killin. Underfoot, the wind has sculpted crispy snow patterns. It’s like we’re walking atop a giant meringue. Despite the rays of sunshine, it’s -17C with the wind chill. Mike’s lips have gone numb. He dons his balaclava and wanders off in front. Spindrift (windswept snow) spirals around him. He looks like an Arctic explorer venturing into an unknown world of peaks that rise like ancient turrets. This is nature’s castle. We clamber along its ramparts trying to keep our balance against an insistent wind. After three peaks of the Tarmachan Ridge roller coaster, the track veers down into an old quarry and back out onto an access road. Our faces are sunburnt and blood flows in our extremities once again as we enjoy a cloudless sunset over Loch Tay.

King of the castle on the Tarmachan Ridge. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

Adventure Scottish Highlands trekking

MUNRO MANIA With its glistening lochs, brooding moors and enigmatic peaks, it’s easy to see how hikers become obsessed with Munrobagging. You could say Steven Fallon has Munro mania. He’s been hooked ever since his parents bought him a book about these lofty peaks, and has been climbing them for more than 20 years. So far, the sturdy-kneed Scot has compleated 15 rounds, during which time he’s climbed the equivalent height of 240 Mount Everests. On average, mere mortals take eight years to complete a round. Steven’s eleventh took under ten months. Fallon once bagged 15 Munros in a single day. He was on a reconnaissance mission checking out Ramsay’s Round, a mountain marathon route in the Ben Nevis area where the aim is to bag 28 Munros in less than 24 hours. The route is named after Charlie Ramsay who set the benchmark in 1978 when he scrambled over 90km and 3810m in 23 hours 58 minutes. Peerless postman Charlie Campbell also had rocket boosters strapped to his boots. In 2000 he climbed, cycled and ran his way around all 283 peaks in 48 days and 12 hours. Towards the end of his Herculean feat, which saw him run 1430km, cycle 1220km and swim the offshore sections, Campbell was so exhausted he started hallucinating dancing sheep. ENTER THE VOID “Severe wind chills” and “ferocious gusts” are forecast for today’s challenging ascent of Ben Lawers (1214m), although it’s only going to be -13C today. Ben Lawers isn’t named after a kilt-wearing Haggis hunter, but after the many draining streams trickling down its hillside. Its translation from Gaelic is ‘speaking hill’ because the streams are said to sound like voices. Early mapmakers in the mid-19th Century estimated Ben Lawers to be in excess of 4000ft (1220m). This figure was eventually discounted; it was 6m shorter. In 1878 a group of disgruntled locals, including two masons, erected a 6m-high cairn on the summit in order to take Ben Lawers to the “magic height”. The Ordnance Survey ignored the artificial peak, which has long since crumbled. Our route to summit begins just outside Lawers village, and it’s a 16km loop.

En route to a rapidly misting-out Ben Lawers. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

Cruach Adrain is characterised by rocky outcrops. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

Ben Lawers is named after the streams trickling down its sides – the Gaelic translation is ‘speaking hill’ as the streams sound like voices. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

We ascend into an increasingly cloudy day. And then, in an instant, the summit of Ben Lawers and the neighbouring Tarmachan Ridge has vanished. Cloud swirls like a phantom. It merges with snow. I can see only one footstep ahead, but eventually stumble to the summit where wind gusts of 120km/h force me to cling onto rocks. Standing up is near impossible. The wind yanks off my hood when I try to, and then whips my beanie clean off. It lands three metres away, perched perilously on the edge of a cornice. Within a moment, it’s gone forever. Mike beckons me off the summit and down a path of icy rock. We reach a plateau. The weather clears slightly (visibility is around 10m now), and we trail-blaze through shin-high snow. To our right, Ben Lawers rises steeply. Somewhere. One false step to our left and it’s a long, bone-breaking tumble below. Mike’s entire leg disappears into a snow-hole, beneath which is a babbling brook. He’s stuck. It’s funny watching Mike yanking himself free, but it highlights the necessity of walking poles in this environment, and how easy it could be to very quickly break a leg.

Colourful sphagnum moss. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

DEAD AT ELEVEN The weather is getting worse. Surly winds are rampaging the whole of Scotland. Off the east coast, a Spanish trawler has run aground on the UK’s highest sea cliffs on Hirta Island. And, as we begin our ascent of Cruach Ardrain (1046m), our third Munro, there’s further evidence of the wind’s devastation. We’re walking through a forestry plantation. An 11-year-old pine tree has been uprooted and lays destitute across the track. After doing the limbo, we tramp over sphagnum moss and boggy ground as drizzle dusts the hills. Cruach Ardrain (stack of the high region) is a Munro characterised by rocky outcrops and long twisting ridges that run either side of it. We clamber up with the wind at our backs beneath heavy cloud. There are two tops before the summit of Cruach Ardrain, and on reaching the second one, a sliver of sunshine peeks through a sky of navy blue and dark grey. Its presence against such fierce clouds is biblical, like we’re on the verge of eclipse.

Adventure Scottish Highlands trekking

Cloud shrouds Stob Ghabhar, aka 'peak of the goats'. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

Mike scales a waterfall on the way down from Stob Ghabhar. PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

"The descent off Cruach Ardrain is tricky at the best of times, not to mention when you can't see where the track is: time to affix the cramp-ons, prime our ice axes and extend our snow poles" We negotiate rocky ridges – very narrow in places – before embarking on a steep ascent to the summit. Sunshine streams through the darkness at irregular intervals. Its rays move across the valley and reflect distant lochans, which glow like golden buttons. A thick band of cloud clobbers us with rain as we summit. Visibility is dangerously low. The temperature dips. The descent off Cruach Ardrain is tricky at the best of times, not to mention when you can’t see where the track is. Time to affix the cramp-ons, prime our ice axes and extend our snow poles. We weave past icy patches and steep drops. Some sections require us to go down backwards. We’re stretching from rock to rock in other places. The cloud eventually lifts to offer gorgeous views of the valley. Sunshine streaks on yellowy-green slopes and faraway snowy peaks. We ride the back of a grassy ridge and pass over two peaks before tracking down a steep hill. A dead sheep lies with its horn stuck in a fence. We vanish into a tightly-knit pine forest. Branches poke and scratch our faces. The ground is boggy and squelches with each footstep. Eventually we’re spewed onto the banks of a river, using our walking poles to negotiate slippery rocks before rejoining the plantation road. Our 13km loop has taken the best part of six hours.

LIFTING THE PANTOMIME CURTAIN It’s our last day of Munro-bagging. The sky is still littered with cloud. We’re tackling Stob Ghabhar (1086m), peak of the goats. Red deer graze on the plains. Gnarly Caledonian pines mark the start, next to a seemingly deserted forest lodge. A gentle ascent along a stalker’s track takes us into a gigantic bowl. Mountains tower around us. A misty veil impedes a rock scramble up the scree slopes of – pass the phlegm – Aonach Eagach. After losing the path several times, we soldier on to the summit in deteriorating conditions, disappearing into yet another white-out. Mike’s orienteering skills get us out, and like a pantomime curtain the cloud parts to reveal a boggy moor and a steep and slippery track skirting a large waterfall. Even though the mountains have been elusive for Mike and I, it’s easy to see why people like Steven Fallon adore the Munros. It’s not something easily put into words, although some of the mysterious mountain monikers do a good job in conveying the atmosphere. You can almost hear the laments in the distant birdcalls on the slopes of Meall Corranaich (mountain of a mournful cry), over which the dead were transported to burial grounds in neighbouring glens. One thing very much alive is the mystique of these mountains. I can feel the first twitches of Munro mania itching beneath my skin. I’ll be back here. Not in winter perhaps, rather beneath the generous arc of a splendid summer sun.

Munro-bagging is an addiction – views from Stob Ghabhar. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

Mike versus the meringue PICTURE CREDIT: David Cauldwell

Loch Achtriochtan can offer a sunny valley vista in the Southern Highlands. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

Adventure Australia's alpine backcountry

Buff Farnell, Drew jolowicz & Asha Warnock scoping out some lines on Hamburg lower with Mt Feathertop sitting up in the background. PICTURE CREDIT: Karl Gray

There's a track Sick of standing on the side of the ski resort boundary salivating at the virgin snow on the other side? Backcountry ski and split board touring will get you out there - and you don't need to be an expert or extreme skier. WORDS Ra cha el Oa kes-Ash

Adventure Australia's alpine backcountry

Drew Jolowicz breathes in the Victorian Alpine National Park air at Diamantina Face with Razorback Ridge in the background. PICTURE CREDIT: Chris Hocking

had long heard the chatter about backcountry skiing before I ever freed my own heel on an alpine touring binding. The mystery of powder snow begging for the taking not far from the chairlift had its appeal, but I was scared. Backcountry was the domain of big mountain extreme skiers who threw themselves (by choice) off cliffs. Backcountry meant avalanches. Backcountry meant death. Then I learnt to ski powder, real powder, floating on over the head snow dust and I wanted more. First tracks on a chairlift meant I could feed that feeling on a powder day, at least for a few laps before the masses tracked out my virgin run. But I wanted that feeling over and over again without fighting the crowds. Without the funds for a helicopter I was forced to confront my fear and step outside of the resort.

Think backcountry skiing and many don’t think Australia, but they should. Few realise the delights on offer among Australia’s unique snow gums and granite boulder bowls of snow in New South Wales and Victoria. “Backcountry skiing in Australia is one of a kind for many reasons,” says long time backcountry skiing professional and guide Bill Barker. He spends his southern winters heading up ski patrol at Hotham Alpine Resort and his northern guiding intrepid skiers in Antarctica and India. “Our mountains are so old that most of them are flat on top, so many of our good lines start mellow and get steeper as you descend. Skiing the gnarled and awesome coloured limbs and trunks of 200 year old snow gums is pretty unique. "As long as you can comfortably ski or board off piste in a variety of snow conditions you can ski backcountry. You do not need to be an expert by any means as often the snow in the back-country is way easier than skiing in the resort.” BACKCOUNTRY AIN'T SO FEARSOME If you are considering dipping your ski boot into the great unknown then heading out past the boundary above Karel’s T Bar at Thredbo gives first timers access to the legendary Dead Horse Gap backcountry run. Though many would refer to this as ‘sidecountry’ the run itself is not patrolled. Although it is an intermediate rolling pitch, it does require an adventurous spirit. You can do this run without alpine touring gear, just be prepared to side slip or traverse or even take your skis off and hike to get out into it. You never forget your first time on Dead Horse Gap. If you’re lucky the snow will be fresh mid winter powder or spring corn and you’ll stumble upon some snow brumbies in the wild. If you’re unlucky you’ll be negotiating a mix of ice then snow then ice again. Either way it’s bush bashing Aussie skiing at its finest. Half way down, you’ll hit the bush and this is where you want to be with someone who knows the run well as you’ll have to navigate the trees and the right side of the creek below before clicking out and crossing the river bridge to where you will have thought ahead and set up a BBQ and beers.

PICTURE CREDIT: Karl Gray

PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

Adventure Australia's alpine backcountry

Buff Farnell, Drew jolowicz & Asha Warnock chasing the last light on the Pink Hamburg ridge, Mt Buffalo and a very funky sky in the background PICTURE CREDIT: Karl Gray

OUR ALPINE BACKCOUNTRY IS LIKE NO OTHER Once is not enough. If this is your first taste of Australian backcountry skiing, as it was mine, then you’ll be researching alpine ski gear come the end of the day. I, in my ski resort ways, had no concept of true Australian skiing until this day. The mystique of being out of the resort, the snow gummed landscape that spells home, the wilderness, the silence, the peace. In Victoria you can get a taster without much work on the back of a snow mobile with an Australian Olympic ski racer and FIS World Cup medalist. Steve Lee is quite the character, laidback, and a man of few words, though the ones he does have are as dry witted as you need when upside down in a snow hole. Lee grew up around these parts, his family still spend their winters at Falls Creek (his sister is a ski instructor in the ski school) and he now calls the Hakuba Valley home during the northern Japan winter where he runs guided backcountry tours. Translation? You’re in good hands. Climb aboard the purpose-built multi-seat trailer behind one of his snow mobiles and get towed out of the resort and into the wilds of Mt McKay. It’s a crazy setup akin to those inflatable bananas that get dragged around the ocean by jet boats at tourist beaches. If you don’t hold on, then you will fall off; if you do hold on then you’ll get quite the ride to the peak of some of Australia’s finest backcountry runs ranging from intermediate pitch to advanced tree runs. On a good winter when the snow is deep you may even stumble upon an anonymous ski patroller skiing the hydro pipeline and racing alpine hares down the slopes. A guide is recommended if venturing deep into the unknown.

While these types of adventures are all good fun and uniquely Australian there is more serious skiing and split boarding to be had once you venture further afield, but at the very least you’ll need a guide who knows the area and how to use avalanche gear. It is easy to forget that avalanches do happen in the Australian mountains. Many laugh at the idea of avalanches in a country that averages at most, four metres of snowfall a season and is not known for extreme pitched terrain of the European Alps or Rocky Mountains, but the fatalities tell a different story. Snowboarding backcountry mates Daniel Kerr and Martie Buckland were buried four metres deep by an avalanche while boarding on Mt Bogong in Victoria in July 2014. The men had appropriate avalanche safety gear but they did not survive. In 2008, 22-year-old Tom Carr Boyd died while skiing when a cornice collapsed near Blue Lake in the NSW backcountry. Another incident as recent as last year occurred when a sizeable slab avalanche was triggered by side country skiers in the unpatrolled area of Mt Hotham. Thankfully no one was caught. But that’s not all. “One of the biggest threats in Australia is hypothermia,” explains Barker of our wetter conditions. “It is easy to get wet and if you then get lost or delayed (due to anything) you will start getting cold and get into trouble.” Once you get the backcountry bug (and you will) you'll need to keep feeding it – so it is best to educate yourself. The Mountain Sports Collective in Australia (mountainsportscollective.org) release a daily backcountry travel advisory. Also check in with Snow Safety Australia (snowsafety.com.au) and the local ski patrol at nearby resorts will have a wealth of snow data to help you make safer decisions.

The glorious Mt Feathertop (1922m) in Victoria at sunset. PICTURE CREDIT: Chris Hocking

Drew Jolowicz having a little cornice smash at the top of Baldy Hollow. PICTURE CREDIT: Karl Gray

Australia may have less snowfall than Europe but the dangers of avalanche are real. PICTURE CREDIT: Chris Hocking

Drew Jolowicz on an Eagle Ridge light beam. PICTURE CREDIT: Karl Gray

"Once you get the backcountry bug (and you will) you'll need to keep feeding it, so it is best to educate yourself" 47

Adventure Australia's alpine backcountry

Drew Jolowicz hiking out from Pink Hamburg, a good day. PICTURE CREDIT: Karl Gray

Professional skiing sisters Anna and Nat Segal love to explore unique runs all over the world. PICTURE CREDIT: Linus Meyer

TOUR THREDBO'S HIDDEN DELIGHTS “We don’t run the backcountry, the backcountry runs us,” says Jake Iskov, lead guide for Thredbo’s new Backcountry Tours supported by The North Face. The crew offer day trips for intermediate to expert resort skiers in order to experience a half or full day backcountry tour suitable to their ski level. “Safety should be on the top of everyone’s list. There’s no ski patrol to apply Band-Aids, nor cafes where you can stop in for a latte when you get cold feet," says Jake. "The weather can get pretty much as bad as anywhere in the world. Navigation can be difficult in adverse weather, which can drift in quickly. For those reasons and several others, it’s a very good idea to go with a guide.” The Australian mountains' old world majestic beat is present when hitting up the more well known routes. Take the seven hour Top of Australia backcountry tour with Thredbo and ski off Australia’s highest peak, Mt Kosciuszko ( 2228m) or the more advanced Cream of Etheridge Range Crop tour and ski high above the tree line with lunch at the historic Seaman’s Hut. The alpine hut was built in the 1920s to provide shelter and warmth after the death of two skiers who died of exposure. Ski the Main Range lines and expect to drink in sweeping views of the Snowy Mountain Range, steeped in geographical history with rolling bowls, languid ridges and flat top mountains that drop down into steeper chutes lined with gum trees. Those in the backcountry know lust after Watsons Crags, steep south facing slopes that do Australia proud for those who mock our sunburnt country’s snow obsession. Expect narrow steep chutes that are not visible when standing atop of the ridge. So, once you’re in, you’re in.

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Drew Jolowicz getting some personal space in Dargo bowl. PICTURE CREDIT: Karl Gray

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Adventure Australia's alpine backcountry

Anna and Nat Segal venture into the wild in Chamonix, France. PICTURE CREDIT: Linus Meyer

"Australian big mountain skier and Freeride World Tour athlete, Nat Segal, spends her northern winters ski touring the extreme couloirs of Chamonix in the French Alps" Winter camping is an iron-clad way to get away from the crowds. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty

PICTURE CREDIT: Karl Gray

Drew Jolowicz & Buff Farnell scoping lines and conditions top of Hamburg. PICTURE CREDIT: Karl Gray

BACKCOUNTRY GEAR GUIDE But first thing's first. Equipment. If you take a guided trip like the Thredbo Backcountry Tours then they will set you up with all the appropriate equipment. Otherwise have a chat to Bruce Easton at Wilderness Sports in Jindabyne. You’ll need an avalanche beacon, shovel and probe (and have a basic understanding of how to use them), a split board if you’re a snowboarder and alpine touring ski bindings and boots for skiers. These will allow your heel to release while your toe stays static, so you can push your skis up the hill with each leg motion. Velvet skins attach to the underside of your skis to provide the grip required to move uphill without sliding down. Once at the top, the skins are removed and the heel locked down and voila, you’re back to downhill skiing. Wear breathable base layers and outerwear without a lining so you can layer up and down as conditions require. Always let someone know where you are going and what time you expect to return and take rations. Backcountry skiing burns a lot of energy, especially on the ‘skin up’ so dense nutrient foods high in good fat and protein (beef jerky and nuts are good) plus dark chocolate for a slower sugar release. The more experience you gain, more adventures will become available to you including multi-day ski touring trips. Australian big mountain skier and Freeride World Tour athlete, Nat Segal, spends her northern winters ski touring the extreme couloirs of Chamonix in the French Alps. She’s skied the backcountry of Alaska, Norway, Canada, Japan and beyond including ‘the crags’ of Australia but she still rates her home country for beauty alone. “We had an incredible campsite and every night the sunsets were spectacular,” says Segal after spending five days camping on the shoulder of Mt Townsend in the Main Range of NSW. “It was my first time snow camping in the area and we barely saw anyone else the whole trip, it was really special. Backcountry skiing in Australia is totally worth it. The terrain and snow conditions are different to overseas but the feeling is the same. After a good day ‘earning’ your turns you have the same smile on your face.” Avalanche Training Australia, in conjunction with Avalanche NZ, are offering accredited two-day Avalanche Awareness (AST1) and four-day Backcountry Avalanche Avoidance (AST2) courses in Falls Creek and Thredbo this year. For more details, visit Avalanchetraining.com.au

Slicing up another ridgeline PICTURE CREDIT: Karl Gray

Adventure Himalaya trek

A most

REVERENT

PLACE

A trek in one of Earth's most famous adventure destinations was stunning and unforgettable, but also one with a message about how we should be managing the our precious places WORDS AND PICS AARON FLANAGAN

Adventure Himalaya trek

Looking down upon the Indus Valley above Leh

Garry Weare's been trekking in Ladakh since 1970

A villager near Rumbak, making roof battens

umankind, in a broad sense, exists within an eggshell-thin band of gas and pressurised conditions extending upwards about twoand-a-half thousand metres above the surface of Earth. Beyond this, the delicate balance of barometric pressure and organic gasses become steadily toxic. The side effects? A potential unripening flux within the soft tissue of the diaphragm and cranium, triggering debilitating headaches, hacked-up blood-speckled phlegm, hallucinations, blindness and if ignored, death. Our five-day adventure from Jingchan at 3370m, via Rumbak, at just under 4000m, before going up and over GandaLa Pass, at a tick over 5000m begins in the shadow of this knowledge, but more on that later. Reminders about the impermanence and tempestuous balance of life on Earth are everywhere in the Himalaya: like the relationship between the human body and atmosphere, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s climate is also delicately poised. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seen in the rarity of the snow leopard, the evolved peculiarities of the highland hoofed animals like the bharal, the drought afflicted yet beautiful hillsides and valleys, and also, in

our age’s great challenge: evidence of dramatic climate change. The effect it’s having on the economic livelihoods of local people as it exerts potentially calamitous consequences upon their homelands, is alarmingly widespread. According to the World Wide Fund for Nature, “melting glaciers, erratic and unpredictable weather conditions, changing rainfall patterns, and increasing temperatures are impacting on the people and wildlife of the region. “The Himalayas is one of the world's most sensitive hotspots to global climate change, with impacts manifesting at a particularly rapid rate. A situation that is predicted to intensify in coming years, with dire and far-reaching impacts on food, water and energy security, as well as biodiversity and species loss”. Trekking in the region obviously helps generate tourism dollars, but it also helps foster a relationship between the local Himalayan people and those who visit, allowing visitors to return home with increased knowledge, and perhaps — even if it’s in a small way — helping them become committed advocates for the wellbeing of the Himalaya.

One of our pack mules enjoying a rest

Garry and long-time trekking mate Narwan

Adventure Himalaya trek

The magnificent Buddhist monastery near Jingchen

A herd of bharal

THE QUIET ADVANTAGES OF A NOMADIC LIFE Adventure travel writer, Bruce Chatwin, in much of his writing, proposed that people living a nomadic existence are closer to the truth of life than any other societal group. That a nomadic routine: constantly breaking camp, wiping the slate clean then resetting somewhere else, revitalizes a core purpose of existence. It’s an interesting concept; that walking somewhere new, carrying nothing but essential kit in a tote bag of some kind, is actually the acme of happiness — wake-up, ablutions, find and prepare something to eat, move onwards when you fancy doing so, settle for the night, then reproduce a variation of the same the next day. Uncomplicated and boundlessly interesting because everything changes with every move. “Diversion. Distraction. Fantasy. Change of fashion, food, love and landscape. We need them as the air we breathe. Without change our brains and bodies rot. The man who sits quietly in a sheltered room is likely to be mad, tortured by hallucinations and introspection, ” he says in ‘It’s a Nomad, Nomad World’. “Children need paths to explore, to take bearings on the earth on which they live, as a navigator takes bearings on familiar landmarks. If we excavate the memories of childhood, we remember the paths first, things and people second – paths down the garden, the way to school, the way round the house, corridors through the bracken or long grass. Tracking the paths of animals was the first and most important element in the education of early man.” Setting out on a trek in the Himalaya, walking for six or so

"It's an interesting concept; that walking somewhere new, carrying nothing but essential kit in a tote bag of some kind, is actually the acme of happiness".

A couple of ladies check us out near Chilling village

A lady takes five on her way back to Rumbak village

Himalaya rose in bloom

A house near Chilling village

hours, stopping to eat, making camp and recuperating, sleeping, then arising at dawn to do the whole thing again is to transport yourself directly into the mind of Chatwinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nomad. As it was, we arrived in Leh, 3500m above sea level, ready for our stint as temporary nomads. Jagged white mountain peaks lined the airport runway, standing like sentries along both sides of the strip. Despite the abundant snowbound evidence of moisture cloaking the mountains, the earth around Leh was arid and desiccated, all precipitation encased high-up in the surrounding mountains above the permanent snowline or encased in glaciers, frozen solid for centuries, but now slowly melting. The local people I spoke with were concerned about the lack of rain, increasing temperature and the effect this was having on their crops. They were nervous that the water they were coming to rely on more and more came from melting glaciers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; not the most sustainable of water resources.

Some butter tea being poured during a visit to a house in Rumbak village

Adventure Himalaya trek

Pack mules approaching a campsite

The group crossing GandaLa Pass

A lone donkey standing sentry

HIMALAYAN WISDOM Garry Weare is an unassuming Himalayan hardnut, completely at ease with the challenge of trekking at altitude in Northern India. With smiling eyes and a friendly reluctance to dwell too much with what I assumed was an illustrious backstory, he’s been visiting Leh and the regions of Northern India since 1970. He was so taken with this first visit, when in his early 20s, that he began planning a return immediately upon arriving back in England. In 1973, after placing an ad in the Sunday Times, he organised and led his first Himalayan trek. He’s been leading them ever since. Indeed he’s been involved with World Expeditions since it was founded in the mid 70s, and the North India Himalaya trek he developed was one of their first commercial adventure travel offerings. In 2002, together with Edmund Hillary’s son, Peter, he founded The Australian Himalayan Foundation, and is one of the world’s leading authorities on the Indian Himalaya. “One of the main reasons I encourage people to travel and trek in this region of Northern India,” he tells me at camp in Rumbak, “is of course for them to experience trekking in the undoubted magnificence of the Himalaya, but also to help them better understand the importance of maintaining and helping improve everything good about the Himalaya”. Learning about the fortunes, or otherwise, of the local people and their homeland is a huge aspect of Garry Weare’s treks. While walking steadily upwards, he’s busy informing and coaxing ideas and emotions from our group of five, patiently answering questions and offering wisdom about trekking in the region. With quite a bit of necessary downtime to properly acclimatise after each upward phase, learning about the culture that surrounds you from someone who’s dedicated his life to the region is an invaluable aspect to the treks he organises and leads. With his bespoke tours into the mountains and surrounding

Narwan cracks a smile at out final campsite before GandaLa Pass

THE ESSENTIALS The trek: World Expeditions: Where Two Worlds meet - Journey to Ladakh & Kashmir with Garry Weare World Expeditions is the most experienced Australian operator in the Northern Indian Himalaya, with more than 40 years experience in the region. They first began in 1978, when the Australian Himalayan Foundation operated their first treks to Kashmir. Trek leader and organiser, Garry Weare, is one of Australia’s most experienced Indian Himalayan authorities. He’s the author of both the Lonely Planet Guide to the region and, “A Long Walk in the Himalaya”, a definitive account of a five-month trek from the source of the Ganges to Kashmir. He’s also a founding director of the Australian Himalayan Foundation. The Indian Himalaya offers similarly stunning scenery to Nepal yet remains off the tourism radar for most active Himalayan travellers.

One of our pack mules happy to be at camp

In 2019, Garry will be escorting new itineraries to the remote Snia Valley in Ladakh and another to the beautiful Nanda Devi in the Uttarakhand region, as well as Beyond the Markha Valley.

"Evidence of life is everywhere in the highest mountains on Earth. The steppes, valleys and passes flutter with garlands of prayer flags and Buddhist stupas sit in permanence, put there by people in reverence to gods that dwell on the highest peaks".

For more details, go to: www.worldexpeditions.com/India/Trekking-Hiking/WhereTwo-Worlds-meet-Journey-to-Ladakh-Kashmir-withGarry-Weare www.worldexpeditions.com/India/Adventure-Touring/ Kashmir-Experience Our campsite before the final day's walk up to GandaLa Pass

areas, organised through World Expeditions, and his work with The Australian Himalayan Foundation, he aims to not only produce world-leading adventure treks, but to also help local Himalayan people achieve greater educational and economic autonomy and to improve their general health prospects. Together with his partners, he’s been able to help with snow leopard conservation efforts, raising funds and increasing awareness of the elusive animal’s habits. He’s linked-up with local scientists and helped create practical strategies designed to help local farmers understand the animal’s potential economic value, rather than it being regarded as a simple threat to livestock. Indeed, the future of this delicately balanced region, with its history of territorial dispute, and now with emerging signs of climate change, depends on recognising immediate problems and helping organise local solutions so that the region's undeniable beauty is maintained. Many of the most achievable solutions are through education and improving communication channels throughout the Himalaya’s myriad of small valley-bound communities.

Adventure Himalaya trek

Continuing down into the valley towards Chilling

TREKKING AT ALTITUDE The effects of altitude began almost immediately. I began feeling odd while filling out Indian entry papers at the airport and became progressively dizzier and garbled as we made our way to the hotel. Of course this was totally expected and we had two days to acclimatise before moving on. The garden at the Hotel Omasila in Leh was the perfect place to relax and let the body deal with the unusual upheaval caused by high altitude. Sitting comfortably in the shade of a tree or on the expansive terrace bedecked with garlands of bright bougainvillia, the same jagged snowbound mountain peaks that first reared into view during landing, provided the iconic Himalaya picture-postcard backdrop, a sight that etched itself into memory, helping dispel any lingering edginess. Certainly, in my case, the inability to string together hours of sleep was the most uncomfortable aspect of altitude adjustment. But my fleeting headaches eased after popping a couple of nurofen and I was able to eat well and maintain energy reserves. As is often the case when travelling, any downtime is often spent reading about any particularly vexing or unusual local issues. I learnt that altitude insomnia is caused by the depleted concentration of oxygen in the atmosphere; that during waking hours the conscious mind is able to compensate by breathing more deeply and frequently. But when asleep, the unconscious takes over, fails to recognise the depleted concentration of oxygen and instead reanimates consciousness to deal with the problem. Goodbye sweet slumber!

Prayer flag left by those walking across GandaLa Pass

THE PORTERS Nabu, who looked after our pack mules — despite being a diminutive guy at just over five foot — was indefatigable over the entire 90 kilometres. During the five days we took to walk from Jingchan, he whistled and sang as he reshod pack mules at 5000m, laughing and joking with his mates between taps of the hammer, horseshoe tacks jutting out between grinning lips like a carpenter’s nails. Govinda, the cook, prepared three nourishing and delicious meals a day and Padam, the leader, walked ahead to secure the best campsite during each leg. Narwan, like Garry, is a Himalaya trek veteran, having accompanied Australian mountaineering legend, Tim McCartney-Snape, on some of his epic expeditions into the Karakoram. In between munching nurofen and recuperating from the day’s efforts, it was a pleasure to watch these guys work and get to know them.

The walk down from GandaLa Pass featured vistas on an epic scale

THE TREK ITSELF Evidence of life is everywhere during the trek. The steppes, valleys and passes flutter with garlands of prayer flags and Buddhist stupas sit in permanence, put there by people in reverence to gods that dwell on the highest peaks. And of course the trek is the real hero of this adventure; being immersed for a memorable week within a truly unique part of the world provokes sheer chin-stroking wonder. Experiencing the effects of being at 5000m and understanding first-hand what it’s like inching up a steep gradient, sucking in air that contains about half as much oxygen than at sea level, is a fascinating physical conundrum. Much has been told about man’s epic battle with altitude in the Himalaya — the image of a mountaineer inching upwards, snow everywhere, clad in a suit like some sort of alpine-dwelling Michelin man, is well known. Certainly during the trek I experienced some small idea about what this is like; the difficulty of placing one foot in front of each other, the very act an exhausting process. I also witnessed and appreciated the sheer beauty of the mountains and began to understand why people think god lives within the Indian Himalaya’s most distant peaks. But I was most affected by a realisation of how delicate and fragile the harsh ecosystem of the Himalaya is; how important this ecosystem is to the people and animals that live among its valleys. I was affected by the stories people told me, with genuine concern on their faces. And my residual thoughts now are on urging people to go and see for themselves how things are, because only by going and appreciating the North Indian Himalaya's rare and beautiful culture, one that’s been there for millenia, will we ensure it’s there forever. As it should be.

Himalaya Roses were everywhere in the valley during the walk down

Adventure Himalaya product test

The world's highest proving ground Arcteryx Cerium LT hoodie softshel Down hoody for cool, dry conditions

uper lightweight, super portable and eminently practical during the dry, arid, cold climate of the high altitude Himalayan tundra, the Cerium softshell quickly became my go-to outer layer whenever exiting my tent. As temperatures during the night plummeted to zero, the Cerium became indispensable, able to be quickly retrieved from the mangled contents of my pack and zipped-on quick as a flash during moments of high-altitude insomnia-laden night time sojourns out into the campground to observe the stars. We started our trekking at about half six, usually walking for about six hours so we could rest when the sun was it its most intense. From six to midday the temperature ranged from around 4 celcius to a maximum in the high teens. The Cerium was perfect as an outer layer over this range. Anything in the low 20s would probably have had it off and packed away. An awesome jacket I wore every day I was in the Himalaya. The Cerium LT’s outer surface is moisture resistant, wind cancelling, and breathable,

making it the perfect option for the cold weather adventurer. Arc’Teryx has designed a lightweight classic in the Cerium LT. Ideal for hikers, skiers, climbers, outdoor lovers and even commuters, the Cerium LT Hoody & Jacket will make the hard yards a little bit easier this winter. ARC’TERYX CERIUM LT HOODY RRP: $580

Scarpa Kailash trekking boots

had these fitted by the folks at Paddy Pallin, and my word, did they fit like a glove. During one of the most epic treks you could imagine, five days over more than 90 kilometres, pausing only to allow physical adjustment to the steadily increasing altitude, my feet were as snug as could be, even through muddy bogs and streams of glacier melt-water runoff. At the end of every day, my feet were dry and fresh as a daisy thanks to the Kailish’s Gore-Tex construction. They’re super lightweight, too, which is very welcome when you’re slogging up a seemingly endless steep gradient at 5000+ metres. Italian made, The Kailash GTX delivers the trademark GORE-TEX lining which offers a combination of lightweight construction and superior waterproofing. Its suede leather upper

structure allows for easy breaking in, while the Hi-Trail sole unit boasts a Polyurethane wedge in the heel for improved stability. Traction comes courtesy of the durable Vibram rubber outersole, which should see you to the end of plenty of trails in their lifetime. I put these through the absolute wringer, walking for 10 days straight, clocking up more than 100 clicks over rocky, wet and muddy terrain. At the end of the 10 days, after wiping off a bit of mud and dust, they were as good as new and ready to be stuffed into my pack for the trip home. I'm looking forward to putting them on for my next trek. SCARPA KAILASH TREK GTX RRP: $399.95

The North Face motion pants

an, these duds are comfortable. I wore thermal merino long johns under them, and these became indespensible. Pants for outdoorsy folks come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. These are so lightweight that you hardly feel you're wearing them. They also slide on easily when your have to get dressed lying down on the floor of a one-man tent, which could've been uncomfortable. Often times I wasn't feeling the Mae West and having issues getting my duds on in the morning would have been horrendous. Swear words would likely have been unleashed. I wore them every day of the trek, finding them far more comfortable and convenient than the other pair I brought along. I simply changed my merino base layers and let these take all the punishment during the trek. Since returning home, they've been put through the washing machine and are good as new. Designed to maximize your mobility, these midweight pants are crafted with durable SoronaÂŽ Triexta yarns, feature articulated knees for freedom of movement, and reflective trim that's visible when pants are cuffed.

Ray Ban Justin sunnies

ight, tough and virtually unbreakable, my Justins were stuffed in pockets, slept on, rolled on and yet did their glare-shielding job whenever called upon. They're great take-anywhere polarised sunnies that do the job without causing potential bankruptcy issues if you happen to lose them. Ray-Ban Justin sunglasses are bold and fun with a fresh design inspired by the Wayfarer, but with a slightly larger Wayfarer frame and rectangle lenses.

THE NORTH FACE MOTION PANTS RRP: $140.00

RAY BAN JUSTIN SUNNIES RRP: From $185.00

Adventure Rock climbing

Sol oing In early June, American climbing legends Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell made headlines for speed climbing the classic Yosemite, El Capitan, 'The Nose' route in under two hours. Simon Madden discusses the irrepressible urge to forge similar ground in Australia. WORDS Sim on Ma dden PICS Sim on Ma dden & Sim on Bischoff

Danny Wade on Pilot Error (20) PICTURE CREDIT: Simon Bischoff

Adventure Rock climbing

The embodiment of ego dissolution, dwarfed by The Pharos massif, the infinitesimal climber is hard to see as they step across the famous void move on one of Arapiles most popular solos, Spiral Staircase (6). PICTURE CREDIT: Simon Madden

uring summer at Mt Arapiles, in western Victoria the transition of afternoon to evening is long and ill-defined. The east-facing cliff falls into darkness first, the massif casting a shadow over the campsite that lengthens across the bleached plains, and though the burning sun is gone, the heated air lingers. The campsite is full but lazy, the air smells of dust, the pitch of the cicadas sits under the clanging of pots and climbing gear, distant shouts and laughter. I had arrived hours earlier, chaperoning a school group not much younger than I, we were more contemporaries than a leader and his charges. Camp was set up, dinner was underway. Fearing three days of hand-holding city kids navigating fear and bravado on easy top ropes, I picked up my shoes and chalk bag and slunk off, unannounced and unnoticed. Few parties were still out climbing and the Organ Pipes – a series of fluted buttresses with some of the best easy climbing in Australia – were deserted. At the base of Hornpiece (grade 13 ) I made a pile of shoes, socks and sweat-stained T-shirt, slid into my climbing shoes, clipped my chalk bag around my waist and started up into the deepening gloom. A quick unencumbered jaunt up 80 brilliant metres, pure like a moving meditation. I was headstrong as dismissive of risk as I was unsure about my place in the world. The mistake was not telling anyone but as I walked off the back, collected my things and sauntered into camp I never once thought, “What if?".

Jed Parkes on Watchtower Crack (16), a proper out-there solo up one of the most powerful Mt Arapiles lines. PICTURE CREDIT: Simon Madden

High up on D Minor (14), Jed is all big swings and bigger smiles. PICTURE CREDIT: Simon Madden

BLINDSIDED IN AN INSTANT Early in 2018, a man arrived at Arapiles in the late afternoon having travelled directly from New Zealand – a long day when you leave Christchurch very early in the morning, fly across the ditch and drive five hours. He set up his tent among a group of mates who’d been there a few days already. The light was quickly slipping away and his group started on dinner but he was itching to climb so he slipped away unannounced, with just his shoes and chalk bag. He was experienced and had climbed at Arapiles a few times. He made his way to a big route, Dunes, a 120m high grade 12 – well within his capabilities. No one saw what happened but parties climbing nearby heard the scream as he fell, impacting the slab at the bottom and rag-dolling to the ground. The first his mates knew of it was seeing the chopper land. It's the same story – easy route, late afternoon, impatience – but with different ends. Lots of climbers solo at Araps but soloing can go from having a great time to disaster in an instant – the difference nothing more than luck, a momentary lapse in concentration, a millimetre of misjudgment, a broken rock, a rain-sickened foothold. Due to the serious ramifications of a mishap there is a vocal chorus who decry soloists as selfish, stupid, death-seeking and adrenaline-addicted. That given any error is likely fatal and at best life-changing, soloing cannot be justified.

"Soloing can go from having a great time to disaster in an instant; the difference nothing more than luck, a momentary lapse in concentration, a broken rock" Victoria's Mt Arapiles is becoming a magnet for soloists. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

Adventure Rock climbing

Are soloists fully prepped to deal with the unforeseen? PICTURE: Getty

As the sun dips behind the Mount shadows lengthen across Touchstone (15). PICTURE CREDIT: Simon Madden

Jed Parkes on Muldoon (13) PICTURE CREDIT: Simon Bischoff

PUSHING BOUNDARIES Famously in 2014, ClifBar – long a supporter of daredevils – pulled their sponsorship from soloist Alex Honnold, BASE jumping climber Steph Davis and BASE jumping soloist Dean Potter. By way of explanation, ClifBar wrote in an open letter, “that these forms of the sport are pushing boundaries and taking the element of risk to a place where we as a company are no longer willing to go… we no longer feel good about benefiting from the amount of risk certain athletes are taking in areas of the sport where there is no margin for error”. It is true the famous and great die. One of the most renowned soloists ever, John Bacher, fell to his death climbing ropeless. Dean Potter himself died in 2015 BASE jumping in Yosemite.

"Back when in a fall a rope was more likely to kill everyone in the party than arrest the plummet, everything was effectively soloed"

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When soloing you can be so in synch with the rock that – as seen here with Jed Parkes on Scylla (15), Mt Arapiles – it is hard to tell where you stop and the stone starts. PICTURE CREDIT: Simon Madden

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Jed Parkes on Left Out (21) PICTURE: CREDIT: Simon Bischoff

Road

It can be worse to watch soloing than to do it. Before photographing Jed Parkes, who in a single month in 2018 soloed all 310 routes in the Arapiles Selected Climbs guide grade 16 and under, I had a week of fitful sleep and bad dreams and he was only soloing easy things. This betrays the complication where we feel both admiration and unease. These reactions need not be mutually exclusive and it’s OK if our responses are not binary. The thing is though that soloing has been a part of our sport forever and it’s not going away. Before modern gear, before harnesses, nylon ropes, nuts and glue-in bolts, back when in a fall a rope was more likely to kill everyone in the party than arrest the plummet, everything was effectively soloed. The ethic was the leader must not fall and this is the same for the modern soloist. Indeed, all modern climbers are constantly assessing their relationship to the 'no-fall zone’. An awareness of potential consequences is intrinsic to climbing and that awareness can be a catalyst for transformation and transcendence. Danger is at the heart of climbing, sketchy trad is dangerous, highball bouldering, alpine climbing, even sport climbing is dangerous because we blindly trust fixed protection which can fail or – more likely – we make a mistake. Jed said something interesting about this: “I feel in a lot of ways soloing is safer than climbing on a rope. You never get complacent. I’ve heard very few stories of people getting hurt soloing vs the number abseiling. The moment I start a solo I go into another place. So focused. Totally aware of my choices, actions and consequences." Mitre Lake

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Adventure Rock climbing

The iconic Yosemite Valley. PICTURE: Getty

BANISH THE MIND MONSTER Alex Honnold has made mainstream headlines for ropeless ascents of some of the world’s biggest hunks of rock. Rebutting accusations of adrenaline-addiction, Honnold says his solos are “meditative, calm, and relaxed. It’s almost serene.” When soloing you’re not “crushing’ – the en vogue term for success – you are reverent and humble. Soling isn’t ego affirming, it’s ego shattering. Whereas Jed and I have soloed well within our abilities, on ground where any catastrophe is so remote as to be incalculable, Honnold is famous for rehearsing hard climbs with a rope, learning the moves, laying down engrams for the body positions until it is dialed and only then soloing them. This was his methodology for his greatest solo yet, what some believe the greatest ever climbing feat – soloing El Cap in Yosemite. Freerider is a 900m grade 27/28 route that most parties take four to five days to do. It still seems almost fathomable that in four hours he was done. And what did he do afterwards? He trained, he spent the afternoon hang boarding (specialist finger-strength training). Here is the tell behind Honnold’s magic, to succeed he had to stop it from becoming a monster in his mind. Monsters are

"I don't like risk. I do it because it's so much fun. There is no adrenaline rush ... if I get a rush, it means that something has gone horribly wrong"

Yosemite's El Capitan PICTURE: Getty

Yosemite National Park is home to solo-loving climbers such as Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell. PICTURE: Getty

El Capitan's big wall PICTURE: Getty

Simon Bischoff on Dreadnought Variant (22) PICTURE CREDIT: Danny Wade

unpredictable, they haunt you, they hunt you. Instead he looks past. "It’s been a strategy the whole time I’ve worked on El Cap is to think about what’s beyond… So this just feels like a semi-normal day,” he says. If he let the enormity rise up, it would have cruelled his ability to do it safely. Perhaps this contributes to him not being amazing at introspection, having said: “I don’t like risk… I do it because it’s so much fun… There is no adrenaline rush, if I get a rush, it means that something has gone horribly wrong.” Perhaps this is no satisfactory, unified answer as to why solo. As an outsider it’s hard to fathom someone risking their life for a rock climb. People do it for enjoyment, joy, heightened focus, to dial up the meditative aspect, push themselves and also feel connected to the history of bold climbing. Jed and Honnald have been developing not only strength, skill and movement but an understanding of risk as they have cultivated a physical, mental and emotional relationship with the no-fall zone. Deaths soloing are rare. Deaths during any climbing are rare yet everyone who solos should deeply question themselves – is it worth it? It's possible that not all do and not everyone understands the risks. Soloing does bring up the human fascination with cheating death and the symptomatic heightened sense of freedom. But geologic time includes now – rocks break, even on popular climbs that have seen thousands of ascents. A hold rips and you plummet without a rope to bounce onto the end of.

Adventure Women of adventure

Monique Forestier, in her happy place, leading De picos pardos (8b), Oliana, Spain. PICTURE CREDIT: Simon Carter

Keeping the

Home Fires

Burning

Megan Holbeck explores how parenthood and gender roles affect adventure

Adventure Women of adventure

Through her company, Wild Women on Top, Di Westaway (below and bottom) encourages women to use adventure to get over a 'mid-wife crisis'. PICTURE SUPPLIED

henever I read anything by men on trips, I think of the women holding the fort at home. Men seem to be able to have adventures and family, while women need to give one up, at least for a while. Pregnancy, birth and being the one with boobs makes it hard to extricate yourself at first, but all too often this seems to lead into forever. Why? There have always been daring women scattered about, but female participation in ‘adventure sports’ is quite recent, especially as a (relatively) mainstream thing. The 1980s was the decade when women started blazing some serious trails: those who began adventuring in earnest include US climber Lynn Hill; Kiwi guide Lydia Bradey (the first woman to climb Everest without oxygen); Alison Hargreaves, the British climber who was the first woman (and second person) to climb Everest solo and unassisted; and our own Brigitte Muir, the first Australian to climb the Seven Summits. Other women have followed in every field. Female participation in school and university outdoor education programs is growing, and there are now female-only adventure races, grants and trekking programs, as well as many events, companies and groups aimed at getting women outdoors. But we’re still a long way behind.

World's highest handstand, 6,865m Ama Dablam PICTURE SUPPLIED

Explorer Di Westaway created Wild Women on Top to train women for trekking and climbing adventures. PICTURE SUPPLIED

"Pregnancy, birth and being the one with boobs makes it hard to extricate yourself at first, but all too often this seems to lead into forever. Why?" BABY, WE'RE TAKING IT DOWN A NOTCH There are obvious physical factors as to why mothers stop adventuring. Lexi DuPont, an American pro skier, pointed out on sports website Outside Online that a mother would be likely to take at least a year off from intense skiing while having a baby, "whereas a father’s going to keep hard-charging every day until the baby comes and likely get to keep skiing while a mother attends to recovery, breastfeeding, and all the other biological realities of having a baby". Even women who keep adventure fit – climbing, bushwalking, kayaking, swimming, trail running; whatever their bag – tend to reduce the intensity and amount of their activity, for a while at least. During this time they generally pick up more of the household responsibilities just as their confidence, fitness, active involvement and sense of belonging in that space also diminishes. Add in multiple kids, where just as you’re getting back into adventure you’re preparing to pause again, and it’s easy to see how a year can turn into a decade with relatively little outdoor action. There are countless examples of women missing out on adventure due to pregnancy and its aftermath. Top US climber Beth Rodden couldn’t even walk around the block for four months following the birth of her son. Alina McMaster, Australian adventure racing legend and the owner of outdoor event business AROC Sport, organised for the AROC team to get back together after a six-year break to celebrate her 40th birthday. But when they lined up at the start of the Abu Dhabi Adventure Challenge, it was without the birthday girl: McMaster was pregnant. I feel awkwardly compelled here to add that of course there are sacrifices in having kids, and they are worth it in the long run. But this physical component of the childbearing caper goes for a minimum of one year per kid, is emotionally and physically hard, and is generally overlooked or massively downplayed. If it were only about biological differences, there would be a dip of a year or so, then a gradual return to normal. But that’s not the case. What seems to happen, with the women I come across at least, is that adventure and fitness become sidelined for years in a much bigger way than with their partners. Di Westaway, founder and ‘Chief Adventure Chick’ of Wild Women on Top, blames it on societal pressure. "It’s not OK for mum to go out just for her own health, or that’s the story we tell ourselves and it’s accepted by the community generally," she says. "Your mum role is that first and foremost you have to care for everyone else first."

Westaway and Marty Cook on top of the world. PICTURE SUPPLIED

Westaway handstanding at 5600m. PICTURE SUPPLIED

Adventure Women of adventure

There’s also the fact that women statistically earn less and work less, so tend to take on more of the childcare and housework (cleaning, life admin and everything else) than men, as well as carrying the mental load of keeping the family life running smoothly. Getting away is harder if you’re the one who keeps the ship afloat. I know this one firsthand: it took me a couple of weeks of solid organising to prepare for a two-week trek in Nepal last year, and a few days of catch-up on my return. This was excluding my own (paid) work and arranging the childcare – it was menu planning, shopping and cooking; arranging schedules, logistics and writing list after list; putting backups in place and a million or so other little jobs. My husband goes away for a similar time and his preparation amounts to planning his trip and packing his bag. Fair? No. But I can I see how it’s happened. DADDY HAS TO GO ON AN ADVENTURE NOW This trade-off between parents grows more pronounced as the seriousness increases, something Dinah Taprell understands well. Her husband Neill Johanson finished the Seven Summits two years ago and while he gave up the risky stuff, she still has very mixed emotions about being married to a mountain climber, feeling both irritation and pride. She recounted a conversation they had about the balance between partners. "Neill said, 'I don’t think I could have achieved what I did if we had done it in a more equal way, with you (Dinah) getting the time to do what you wanted to do'." But that’s what it comes down to when you’re co-parenting: the more time one person devotes to something, the less time there is left for the other. It’s no coincidence that a lot of the mothers I came across who are successfully continuing their adventures didn’t have traditional family roles: instead there was more diversity and sharing of both the work and family load.

Westaway getting on top of The Moai in Tasmania PICTURE SUPPLIED

Westaway climbing Mt Wellington/ Kunyani in Tasmania PICTURE SUPPLIED

Monique Forestier, Monochroma (7c+), Sector Raco de Missa, Montsant, Spain. PICTURE CREDIT: Simon Carter

"Normal families seem to place men further up the priority list, due to the attitudes of both genders, and this is something that needs to be changed for equality in life, as well as adventure"

Two words came up time and time again in interviews for this piece: ‘guilt’ and ‘selfish’. This last one got a huge work-out when Alison Hargreaves died while descending K2 in 1995, leaving two young children behind. The media backlash was huge, especially when compared to the milder treatment of fathers who died with her on the mountain. Lydia Bradey, in her memoir Going Up is Easy, writes: "When I started mountaineering, I would see men who were fathers pushing themselves and taking risks. And it seemed to me that their wives and girlfriends back home were in the dark about what was going on. So men got away with what they were doing and it was only when women who were mothers started climbing that the spotlight fell on the subject."

Monique Forestier leading pitch 8 of La Fiesta de los Biceps (6a+, 6b, 7a, 6c, 6c, 6c, 6c+, 6b, 3), La Visera, Riglos, Spain. PICTURE CREDIT: Simon Carter

Adventure Women of adventure

Adventure racing legend Alina McMaster now does events to show her kids it isn't all about winning. PICTURE SUPPLIED

"The proportion of high-profile women undertaking risky adventures is small" XPD Adventure Race 2004: Team AROC from left to right: Tom Landon-Smith (Alina's husband), Nigel Aylott, Alina McMaster, Adam Hunter. PICTURE SUPPLIED

CONQUERING THE GUILT FACTOR IS A CHALLENGE Women can (and do) feel guilty for just about everything, but leaving the family behind is a sure-fire way to ramp it up. This guilt often comes from within, or from the imagined disapproval of others, making it even harder to deal with. Monique Forestier, one of Australia’s best climbers, summed up the torment. "I have gone through a lot of phases in my life where I feel guilty if I go climbing. I think, 'Oh, I should be taking care of my child'." she says. "But it’s a really good thing for me to have a break, regardless of what I’m doing with that time: climbing or housework or work.’ Part of this guilt may be from a lack of visible role models. The proportion of high-profile women undertaking risky adventures is small. Using mountaineering as an example, it’s estimated that one percent of first ascents, and around six percent of Everest ascents, have been done by women. And of these, a much smaller slice are also mothers. Many adventuring women decide that having children is incompatible with their lifestyle. Bradey was sterilised in her early 20s, telling Outside Online: "I wanted to travel the world, be a mountaineer, and have adventures… It was a pretty simple decision at the time." Even among those who decide to have kids, there is often the feeling that it will be the end of their hard-core days. When asked if she was nervous about how having a child would affect her climbing, Forestier muses, "I don’t remember thinking, 'I wonder how this is going to pan out with my climbing'. I guess I assumed that it was going to be the end of my hard climbing as I didn’t think it would be an option after having a child." Men have had a range of adventuring role models since forever, from Captain Cook to Mawson, Edmund Hilary to Neil Armstrong, and whether they had kids didn’t come into it. These men aren’t just seen as heroic, they are the pinnacle of manhood. The reception of female equivalents is more uneasy; less wholehearted. These athletes are seen as strong, mentally and physically tough, but these and other ‘manly’ traits and descriptions are more complicated compliments for women.

Landrover G4 Challenge, 2006: Alina was the Australian representative for this four-week event through 18 countries, including Laos, Argentina and Bolivia. PICTURE CREDITS: Landrover G4 Challenge

A SHIFT IN DEFINITION OF 'ADVENTURE' The motivations for adventure change with age, becoming less about competition and more about enjoyment, fitness and the family. The timing of the child-bearing years – smack bang in physical prime-time – force a break from any hard-core competition. This reduces the visibility of women in the space, but doesn’t mean they’ve stopped. McMaster is one example, still competing in adventure races but for different reasons. "Having kids didn’t really change my competitiveness but what it has changed, one of the reasons I started doing events again, is to show the kids that it doesn’t matter how you go. You don’t have to win," she says. She also talked about how her kids are now at the stage where they can join in. "Why I don’t want to make a comeback – aside from the training and the pressure – is I’d actually prefer to do a little adventure with the kids than say,

Alina McMaster at what was then called 'The North Face 100' in 2009 and 8.5 months pregnant. PICTURE CREDIT: Tom Landon-Smith

Adventure Women of adventure

Left and below: Di Westaway is proof that there is plenty of adventure left for mums. PICTURE SUPPLIED

'Sorry kids. Today I’m going to go out and do an eight-hour training session'." Men just don’t seem to feel the same need to consider everyone else in their adventure equation. "It was never part of anybody’s consideration," Taprell said when talking about the selfish nature of mountaineering and the potential repercussions for both family and climber. "None of the guides he (Neill) met, the older climbers – nobody ever talked about it. It was only about the mountain and the expedition and what you should eat and wear and how to deal with altitude." This attitude was from a decade or so ago and, like larger attitudes towards parenting roles, there has been change, but at a slow pace. In Outside Online’s piece ‘A Father’s Last Shot at Cheating Death’, Mark Jenkins has a more modern reflection on the trade-offs, costs and family pressures created by his lifetime of expeditions, but parts of it still rankle. He writes: "Sue is the only woman I met who didn’t expect me to change, in part because she’s an adventurer herself.’ He then sums up their marriage post-kids: ‘In every marriage, there’s a division of labor. I write and go on assignments. Sue travels with me when she can, and when she can’t she holds down the fort.’ Kids enter, female adventure exits, in my reading at least. It’s not just the person minding the home fires who misses out. Any adventure entails sacrifices, which grow with scale. From the time and toenails of bushwalking, through to not being around to see your kids grow up, or help your partner as they do. And yet these consequences, from time, money and relationship pressures up to serious injury and death, are often never

addressed. Taprell summed it up: "When Neill climbed Everest it was two years out of our life he wasn’t there, either physically or mentally…The climber loses everything from fingers to brain cells, but they also lose all that family commitment and time which they’ll never get back." Of course there would still be sacrifices if the roles were reversed, but I don’t think to the same extent. US skier and mountaineer Hilaree O’Neill is one example, training for her Everest ascent by skiing with her young kids, carrying her two-year-old all over the mountain. She told Outside, "It’s pretty good training carrying 35 pounds of moving, kicking weight for two hours, especially when he’s got his skis and boots on". Being a parent is about communication, compromise and having to put your own needs aside: all traditionally a women’s forte. Adventuring and competition both require a more selfish approach. But if it’s your thing, adventure offers fitness, space, creativity, and physical and mental health benefits, which in turn lead to increased happiness, healthiness, balance and quality of life. It’s something everyone should be able to access, to share in and pass on, to prioritise for themselves. As Westaway said about her attempt on Aconcagua: "It made me realise that there is life after 40, that you can be a good mum and have your own adventures, and if you do something that’s really challenging and compelling, it’s really deeply good for you."

Handstand on a knife's edge, 5550m Mt Urus. PICTURE SUPPLIED

Scaling The Moai, Tassie, during an Australia Day weekend. PICTURE SUPPLIED

Alina McMaster finishing the 2018 Jindabyne Multisport with the kids. There were 12 legs: three trail running, three paddling, three MTB and three lake swims. She finished in 11 hours, 49 minutes, and was the only solo female competitor. PICTURE CREDIT: Tom Landon-Smith

MTB Gravel biking

Long-distance

Graveller Pat Kinsella hits the grit in the saddle of gravel bike to see what all the dust is about. WORDS Pat Kinsel la

MTB Gravel biking

Gravel bikes are designed for longer, often tougher, saddle sessions. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

aving long-ago swapped 26in MTB wheels for more forgiving 29ers, and a hardtail frame for a dual-suspension steed, the rust that has accumulated on my offroad riding skills becomes embarrassingly apparent the minute I throw my leg over a gravel bike and attempt to negotiate some trails. The pursuit of gravel riding is one that’s gaining major traction in the UK and Australia at the moment – the kind of hold I wish my tyres would emulate as they spin on the spot while I attempt an ascent along a poorly chosen line, with my weight distributed all wrong. You can’t simply smash your way through a route on a gravel bike. With its rigid frame and comparatively skinny tyres – it demands you stay alert and in tune with the trail. When you get it right, though, the rewards are manyfold. Or so I’m being told. An unfamiliar circle of light burns brightly in the sky above England’s Chiltern Hills on the bluebird morning I meet with adventure-cycling sages James, Nigel and Andrew. Today, I will lose my gravel-bike innocence, and even the prodigal sun has returned from wherever the hell it’s been partying for the previous six months or so, just to see what happens. Sadly, the solar power has been switched on a little late to dry out the early part of our planned route, which sees us battle across Berkhamsted Common bridleways bestrewn with big puddles and tyre-munching sludgy mud.

James pilots his hand-built Italian Mason Bokeh machine with aplomb. PICTURE CREDIT: Pat Kinsella

"You can't simply smash your way through a route on a gravel bike" Gravel biking open a whole new world of offroad biking delight PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

MTB Gravel biking

A true gravel bike is robust with greater clearance for chunkier tyres. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

Nigel took his Fearless Vulture on its maiden voyage. PICTURE CREDIT: Pat Kinsella

The Fearless Vulture is a nimble performer. PICTURE CREDIT: Pat Kinsella

No matter. The point of today – besides simply enjoying a ride on the wild side through the rural idyll of Hertfordshire – is to give these here gravel bikes a spin on a range of tracks, trails and laneways. And spin I do – quite often – especially during a couple of the early ascents on the loose stuff, as I learn how to properly position my bodyweight on the unfamiliar frame to enable my Clement X’Plor USH tyres to get to grips with the terra less-firma. The four of us are riding very different steeds, with one common denominator: they’re all drop-bar bikes, designed and built to be multi-terrain adventure machines, ready for any escapade you want to throw yourself at, no matter how gritty, gravelly or bloody muddy conditions might be. WHAT BIKE DOES A GRAVEL BIKER USE? I’m on a Genesis Croix De Fer, a tried-and-tested steel-framed model made with mud, guts and gravel riding in mind, but almost equally at home on tarmac. James is piloting a Mason Bokeh, a sleek and adventure-seeking hand-built Italian stunner with a price tag to match its boutique construction, while Nigel is taking a more egalitarian – but nonetheless nubile or nimble – Fearless Vulture for its maiden voyage. Andrew has a classic Trek Crockett – a bike that could arguably roll with either the cyclocross camp or the gravel gang, depending on how you rock it. And arguably is the operative word, with the finer points of difference between gravel and crossbikes being a common cause of bust-ups between riders on forums and over espressos. In a nutshell, finely tuned crossbikes are specced for speed and agility, and are ideal for racing, offering less comfort and a more aggressive frame design, with absolutely no bells and whistles (or even bottle mounts in some cases). A true gravel bike is more robust, less twitchy on technical trails, has greater clearance for chunkier tyres and generally boasts a more laidback geometry, ideal for longer sessions in the saddle.

Our sojourn through Hertfordshire included a range of tracks, trails and, of course, lots of mud. PICTURE CREDIT: Pat Kinsella

MTB Gravel biking

As James concisely puts it: “A crossbike is great for 90 minutes of tearing your lungs out around a playing field in winter, but it wouldn't be my first choice for 120 miles of proper trail.” But the debate rolls on over endless miles of crushed minutiae, and it has taken time for some within the cycling world to get their heads around the truly liberating and versatile potential of gravel bikes – as my current riding buddies appreciate more than most. James has been an enthusiastic apostle of the new genre since its outset and, as we mercifully leave the quagmire behind and hit some drier trails, he explains how the offroad cycling community got up to speed on gravel long before certain sections of the bike industry itself. “When I was first asking questions, many bike shops thought the idea sounded ludicrous,” he recalls. “Gravel bikes to them were a folly that would pass, and they didn't want stock sitting around gathering dust. “Now these same stores are now playing catch-up, with customers demanding bikes that can roll on the road with relative ease, taking them to work in the week, while being capable of tackling technical trails at the weekend. Riders can even score brownie points from the Significant Other when their bike collection starts to shrink rather than expand.” I’ll take that last comment with a pinch of salt – the shrinkingbike-collection is a mythical monster in my book, and it can stay so, despite the tales I might tell at home – but one fact remains: many cycling equipment distributors in the UK and Australia

are finding the gravel market is now a big seller. “The potential is huge,” James enthuses with the gleeful grin of a man who spotted a winner when it was a newly weaned foal. “Our roads are getting ever rougher, punctuated by potholes, and they’re not a pleasant place to be on skinny tyres. Most of the pedalling population live a long way from real mountains, where bikes with 140mm of travel are total overkill. We have great fun baiting mountain bikers on their trails!” A STEED THAT SLOTS NEATLY INTO A MTB STABLE Nigel – who has some serious cycling form, including a successful completion of the Tour Divide, a 2,745-mile (4418km) offroad epic across the US that traces the Rocky Mountains from Canada to the Mexico border – is the epitome of an MTB misfit who has ended up doing much more time behind the bars of a gravel bike. “Where I live, decent tracks exist but they’re few and far between,” he says. “I found myself either driving two hours each way to do an hour-and-a-half of mountain biking, or going out on the road bike, looking at the same old stretch of tarmac and dealing with the same bad drivers. “Then I got hold of a gravel bike, and I was able to ride straight out of my house and link up a load of trails for an extended adventure, while not chugging along the lanes and roads at a snail’s pace, pedalling a heavy framed bike with chunky tyres. Perfect.”

Gravel bikes offer riders the option to explore varied terrain. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

Gravel riding requires dedicated clobber that differs slightly from regular MTB gear. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

"Customers are demanding bikes that can roll on the road with relative ease, taking them to work in the week, while being capable of tackling technical trails at the weekend"

MTB Gravel biking

Once you get the gravel bug, you're going to need a bigger bike stable. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

"With zero suspension and rolling on rubber less than half the size of my mountain bike tyres, I'm forced into a new zone"

WITH A NEW BIKE COMES NEW CLOBBER With extra time spent in the saddle during longer routes, the clothing gravel riders prefer has its own subtle specifications too – more robust, comfortable and protective, and less race-cut than cyclocross clobber, with storage pockets for snacks and food, but not quite as baggy as traditional mountain-biking gear. I certainly appreciate the sustenance I’ve shoved in the pockets of my gilet, having burned some extra calories during the muddy start to our ride. While I wouldn’t describe the terrain we’re riding as ‘gravel’, the flinty and hard-crushed limestone trails and country lanes of the Chilterns do give us a chance to test the claim that these bikes are the Swiss Army Knife of the cycling world. I’m finding it hard to argue that. The looping route is a mere 50km – many gritty graveleteers would do twice that distance before breakfast – but besides some serious mud, it offers an eclectic selection of singletrack trails, challenging ascents, grassy bridleways and sealed road, all of which the bikes handle with aplomb. Unsurprisingly, the technical sections are the most interesting and exhilarating, with one particular highlight being a rip-roaring descent through a tunnel of trees and along a deep, rutted trough of a trail that resembles an earthy bobsleigh run. With zero suspension and rolling on rubber less than half the size of my mountain bike tyres, I’m forced into an altogether new zone – brow knitted into high-concentration mode as I force my hands down onto the dropbars for better grip and carefully pick my lines, but mouth loose and whooping with excitement at the same time. I probably look like a village idiot, but I’m buzzing.

And within all this is a hidden payload for people who like to mix their machines and riding experiences – the more miles you put in on a gravel bike, the better you’ll be on a mountain bike. “Riding a rigid bike with narrow tyres and a seat post up in the air makes you much more aware of how much your body position can weight the bike,” James explains. “You learn to read the trail and pick the line of least resistance, to relax your arms and use them as natural suspension, and when you jump back on a mountain bike, you absolutely fly!” I can see that. The problem is, now I’ve been grabbed by the gravel bug, I’m going to have to sneak a new steed into the home stable, and making that fly past the Significant Other will require a whole new skillset.

Gravel riding is gaining major traction right now. PICTURE CREDIT: Getty Images

WHAT THE BLAZES IS GRAVEL BIKING?

ore durable than a road bike yet faster and more nimble than a mountain bike, gravel bikes open up a whole new world for cycle devotees. here’s a wealth of tracks and trails — you’ve likely come across them on your road bike or MTB — that would be better experienced aboard a sort of hybrid of the two. A MTB is too cumbersome and heavy-set and your road bike too delicate and finely tuned. Enter the gravel bike, a two-wheeled variation designed to traverse offroad conditions that don’t involve serious articulation issues, boulder hopping, goat track-like topography or other similar potential problems coveted by the soft-tail brigade. Gentle single track routes, countryside dirt roads, off piste mountain trails — whatever, a gravel bike offers performance that a MTB lacks, a combination of rugged capability and straight line rapidity whenever the route opens out. They’re typically an unfussy design, especially compared with high-end road and MTB options. Straight-forward and adaptable, they wouldn’t be as completely out of place as a super-lightweight road bike on an offroad course or conversely, a super-engineered soft-tail beast on dead flat bitumen. And this adaptability is probably their most appealing characteristic. If you had to reduce your bike quivver down to a solitary element, a gravel bike, although not as outright sexy as your gnarly soft-tail head-turner or sleek chin-stroking road machine, would win hands down in the practicality stakes. Your typical gravel bike has a slightly lower bottom bracket, and a longer wheelbase, which make them easier to pilot over bumpy terrain at high speeds. As well, their wheels are wider and don’t require tubes, allowing riders to conveniently reduce tyre pressure given expected conditions. Commonly fitted flatmounted disc brakes offer greater stopping power than the rim brakes usually found on road bikes. By removing the road-bike rim brake caliper, a gravel bike's frame and fork are able to fit bigger tyres. Wider tyres offer extra comfort on bumpy roads, obviously, but also increase traction and stability In other words: a different steed for mutifarious offroad biking need.

Adventure Southwest Tasmania

In to the

WILD

Discovering Tasmania's Southwest wilderness. WORDS ALI MI LLAR PICS GLENN WARDLE

Adventure Southwest Tasmania

asmania’s Southwest exudes an almost mythical quality – it’s a place that inspires adventurers and explorers, environmentalists and artists. It’s a land of misty mountains, crystal-clear alpine tarns and vast tracts of untamed wilderness, with centuries-old King Billy and pencil pines, twisted and gnarled by the years, and stands of mountain ash that rival the tallest trees in the world. Some of Tasmania’s fiercest environmental battles have been won and lost in the Southwest, and the area is synonymous with the rise of the green movement in Australia. It is also home to Australia’s largest freshwater impoundment, as well as a UNESCO World Heritage Area that ticks seven out of the 10 criteria for World Heritage status – meeting more criteria than any other World Heritage Area at the time when it was inscribed in 1982. Any opportunity to explore this isolated region is not to be missed. Throw in a pair of knowledgeable and passionate guides,

and you’re guaranteed to come back with a different outlook and a deeper understanding of what has shaped this area – from the complex geological history to more recent political impacts. And so it was that we jumped in the back of a bus early one autumn morning, leaving Hobart for what promised to be an epic four-day wilderness adventure, guided by Cody McCracken and Lou Balcombe, owner-operators of Tasmanian adventure tour business, Wild Pedder. Our itinerary would take us up mountains, through rainforests, and across the tannin-stained waters of Lake Pedder – each day a new adventure in its own right and each evening finishing up in front of the open fire at Pedder Wilderness Lodge for a debrief and a pinot. While there’s nothing like sleeping out under the stars, this indoors luxury was not to be shunned after a long day at the mercy of Tassie’s changeable alpine weather. The Southwest is renowned for its extremes and regardless of the time of year, anyone adventuring here should carry warm and waterproof gear, including good hiking boots – muddy tracks are almost guaranteed.

"Despite the driving rain and moody clouds nestled in the valleys, the views across the tarns and over Seal Lake below were mesmerising"

Moody clouds make for some spectacular scenes over the valley below

Cody and Lou from Wild Pedder rugged up against the Southwest chill

A tiny fagus plant peeks up from the side of the track

The golden leaves of Tasmania's deciduous beech light up the hillside ATOP THE TARNS The sleet stung our faces as we rock-hopped across small streams on the Tarn Shelf at Mount Field National Park – our first day’s destination. Despite the driving rain and moody clouds nestled in the valleys, the views across the tarns and over Seal Lake below were mesmerising. At this point in the 15km Tarn Shelf circuit walk, we were almost on the home stretch. The rain had been intermittent since we started out that morning and we’d donned our rain jackets and overpants before heading off. As we walked, our guides pointed out the paleoendemic species and Gondwanan remnants that make this place unique – all easily missed by the uninitiated. Mount Field is one of Tasmania’s oldest national parks and its diversity and significance earned it a place in Tasmania’s Wilderness World Heritage Area in 2013. Around the edges of the tarns, the flame-like fagus, or deciduous beech, lit up the hillside. Our trip coincided perfectly with this annual display of autumn colour from Australia’s only cold-climate winter deciduous species – endemic to Tasmania’s high country. The muddy circuit track is interspersed with boardwalk and undulates as it rises up onto the tarn shelf. The path becomes rockier as it winds between a series of glacial lakes, or tarns, before passing the ageing ski lifts that crank into action during the winter months. It’s a solid, moderate-grade day walk with only a few really steep sections, made slightly more challenging by water on the track and the gusty winds that whipped at the surface of the tarns, causing us to falter as we balanced between the rocks high up on the shelf. From the grim weather to the expansive views of the wilderness below, it was the perfect introduction to Tasmania's beautiful Southwest.

The 1927 Twilight Tarn Hut is one of many across the Southwest - perfect protection from the weather

There's no lack of walking options in Mt Field NP

Adventure Southwest Tasmania

The controversial Gordon Dam Wall is a feat of engineering at 140m high PADDLE POWER Sitting in kayaks, floating on the massive expanse of water that makes up Lake Pedder today, it’s hard to imagine the lake as it once was – a shallow, nine square kilometres in an untouched wilderness. The original Lake Pedder was remote and inaccessible, living on in the imaginations of those lucky enough to visit before it was flooded. Yet, as Cody and Lou filled us in on the controversial history, they acknowledged they take a fairly pragmatic approach on the issue – while it may not be what it once was, the Lake Pedder of today is certainly impressive in its own right. Surrounded by mountain ranges that jut sharply out of the water, the pre-Cambrian quartzite of the Frankland Range glistening in the sun and waterfalls cascading off steep cliffs, you can’t help be in awe of this place. All the better for the fact our little group of six had it to ourselves. The second day of our Southwest experience was a 17km paddle on the lake and we were blessed with millpond-like conditions, a light dusting of rain sprinkling the lake’s surface and the sun peeking through the clouds. Wedge-tailed eagles perched high in the treetops, observing our progress as we paddled in and out of numerous coves, exploring small crevices that revealed a tangle of rainforest species. In rougher conditions this paddle would have been tough, but with barely a hint of wind we were able to relax, stopping to take it all in as we wove around the lake’s edge. Bobbing on the surface, drinking tannin-stained water scooped straight from the lake, we all happily agreed it was the freshest we’d tasted.

Drinking water scooped straight out of Lake Pedder was a real treat

LAKE PEDDER: A CONTROVERSIAL BODY OF WATER The plan to dam the Huon and Serpentine rivers and subsequently flood Lake Pedder for a hydro-electric scheme in 1972 spurred one of the nation’s first great environmental battles. Conservationists fought hard to save the unique beauty of the original lake, but to no avail. The original lakebed and its kilometres of pink quartzite beach now sit under many metres of water, which alongside the adjacent Lake Gordon comprises Australia’s largest freshwater impoundment. Combined, the lakes cover approximately 500 square kilometres and fuel Tasmania’s largest hydro power station. The 140m-high Gordon Dam wall is a feat of engineering that displays the scale of the hydro efforts in this area.

Our small crew take a lunch break by the tannin-stained waters of the lake

Floating on the lake, you're dwarfed by surrounding mountain peaks

A magical morning view from Lake Pedder Wilderness Lodge on our last day

Adventure Southwest Tasmania

Wylds Craig

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Taking a well deserved

Moss Glen Catamaran break on one of the Cockle Creek saddles after the initial

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Our guide Lou makes the ascent with Mt Solitary framed by the lake in the background

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SOLITARY VIEW Our third day was set to be the most challenging â&#x20AC;&#x201C; climbing 1000m to the summit of Mount Eliza in Southwest National Park. As we walked across the flats the mountain loomed above us, 1289m above sea level and for the most part tantalisingly clear of clouds, bar the summit, hidden behind a grey veil. We set off up the steep stairs that steadily ascend the mountainside and my walking poles immediately came into their own, providing extra leverage for short legs up the tall steps. From early on we were rewarded with impressive views over Lake Pedder and Mount Solitary, perfectly framed by the water below. We chased the clouds up the hill and finally stepped among them when we reached the dolerite cap that makes up the summit. Here, the track changes as dramatically as the landscape, and the walking poles were stashed away for the steep boulder scramble. Visibility decreased as we climbed and by the time we reached the summit the rain had kicked in and cold winds were sweeping across the mountaintop. We sheltered behind some rocks for a lunch break, nestled among the cushion plants â&#x20AC;&#x201C; each a unique patchwork of tiny alpine species, huddled together for protection, much like we were. From here, you can continue on the longer and more arduous Mount Anne Track. For us, it was time to turn around. We gave up on seeing the view from the top and began our slow descent over the wet boulders, retracing our steps down the mountainside and through the buttongrass, completing the 9km return walk right on dusk.

"From early on we were rewarded with impressive views over Lake Pedder and Mount Solitary, perfectly framed by the water below" 99

Adventure Southwest Tasmania

Submerged in the Florentine Valley rainforest you can't help feeling a sense of wonder and awe

GETTING OUT THERE Wild Pedder provides a truly Tasmanian wilderness experience that combines adventure with a touch of luxury and plenty of home comforts. Throughout the trip you’re treated to tasty Tasmanian produce and homegrown experiences – from the cosy breakfast on the first morning at historic Hawthorn Lodge in Bushy Park, to the final debrief and exclusive wine tasting at longstanding winery, Meadowbank. Four-day guided itineraries are based out of Pedder Wilderness Lodge and explore some stunning sections of Tasmania’s Southwest Wilderness. Find out more at www.wildpedder.com.au.

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Eye-catching fungi is abundant on the forest floor

Mark gets up close with one of the diverse fungi species sprouting from the undergrowth

Guide Cody shared his extensive knowledge of local flora

FLORENTINE FINALE On our last morning, we awoke to blue skies and sunshine. Spiderwebs glistened among the trees and mist rose off the mirror-like surface of Lake Pedder as we followed the winding road toward the Florentine Valley. The fight to save the temperate rainforests of the Upper Florentine from logging was one of Tasmania’s fiercest environmental conflicts, encompassing a blockade that ran for several years, numerous tree-sits – including Miranda Gibson’s 449 day stint, 60m high in the forest canopy – dozens of arrests and plenty of bad blood. After years of protest, the area was included in the 2013 extension of the Wilderness World Heritage Area. Our destination was the Florentine Valley proper, which has also fallen victim to the saws of loggers over the years. We began our walk in an area that was excised from Mount Field National Park in the 1930s and wandered among the huge stumps of felled giants before entering the national park, where the change is significant. The untouched rainforest is a stark contrast to what remains from the logging days, even decades later. Huge mountain ash tower overhead dotted between myrtle and sassafras. Tall ferns line the edges of the track and brightlycoloured fungi, tangled roots and spongy moss call for closer inspection, making the short walk through the verdant rainforest a lot slower than it might otherwise be. At the end of the muddy track, the sound of running water lured us to where a creek flows over the rocks and disappears abruptly into the mouth of a cave – part of a massive and largely unexplored karst cave system that runs beneath the area. This feeling that there’s something unexplored and untamed about the Southwest follows you wherever you go here. For me, this trip was as much about the stories shared and the environmental knowledge imparted by our guides, as it was the joy of actually getting to walk and kayak through this immense wilderness. And we were only scratching the surface. There are literally endless opportunities for keen adventurers to go deeper and explore further in this vast mountainous region at the southern ends of the Earth.

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This crystal-clear stream disappears deep underground into a huge karst cave system

Adventure New Zealand

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Giving popular Queenstown the flick in favour of skiing an active NZ volcano makes for an awesome family adventure. WORDS AND PICS Huw Kingston

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Adventure New Zealand

It seems silly now, looking at this The photograph, family takes two timehands out weren't on the rungs. from whooping their way down a Whakapapa run for a Kodak moment.

s there nothing that New Zealand can’t make into a theme park? Look, I get the draw of Hobbiton for people fascinated by Middle Earth and all that – but a park based around prawns? But there we were, on the last activity of our last day in the Taupo region enjoying the Huka Prawn Park. We fished for prawns (does one 'fish' for them?), we worked up a sweat in the rain trying to shoot water from a pedal-powered fountain and had as much fun as a fresh prawn dancing under a new moon. I’d taken the family over in two-by-two formation – six of us from three generations – for a week loosely based around skiing the volcano that is Mt Ruapehu, the highest peak on New Zealand’s North Island. Tongariro National Park’s Mt Ruapehu, and its two resorts Whakapapa and Turoa, have rarely registered on the snow radar for most Australians. Occasionally you’ll hear a mumble about ‘snow ... volcano ... lava rocks’ but then we tend to go back to extolling the delights of the resorts around Queenstown and Wanaka (or for real aficionados, the mad fun to be had on the club fields of the South Island). With my grandkids Anna and Anders stood next to me at the top of a Whakapapa T-Bar, we stared in awe across the long white cloud below our feet. Above and beyond the Pinnacles, the impressive rocky ridge that forms the eastern boundary of the resort, rose the perfect volcanic cone of Mt Ngauruhoe floating on a cloud sea. We whooped at the view and then some more on the long ski down, all very much appreciating the allure of skiing on the North Island. For those Middle Earth types, Mt Ngauruhoe is the Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings.

Family-friendly ski lift signage is helpful.

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"Above and beyond the Pinnacles, the impressive rocky ridge that forms the eastern boundary of the resort, rose the perfect volcanic cone of Mt Ngauruhoe floating on a cloud sea"

Tauranga

Orakei Korako

Rapids Jet

Taupo Debretts

Huka Prawn park

Taupo Kayaking Adventures MAP Lake

Taupo

Adrift Tours

Mt Ruapehu Napier Hastings

Palmerston North Kate takes a walk with the imposing Mt Ngauruhoe in the background.

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Whakapapa has plenty of runs to choose from.

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Anna has either taken a tumble, or is simply having a rest.

VOLCANO'S SECRET WILL SOON BE REVEALED With Whakapapa and Turoa in the midst of a huge investment in new lifts, facilities and snowmaking, we’re going to hear a lot more about them on this side of the Tasman. About the fact that they have the highest elevation and longest runs in NZ. About the fact Whakapapa’s new Snow Factory can make snow in temperatures up to 25 degrees. But perhaps not about the fact you can sit on the toilet high in a mountain cafe and read the posters about what to do in the case of a Lahar. This, my granddaughter informed me, was a volcanic debris flow, not a spicy Southeast Asian dish. It was actually at this point I felt fully justified in taking Anna out of school for a week. Her main project that term was on volcanoes and she’d selected Ruapehu even before she knew we were heading there. Nothing beats field research. As with most ski areas in NZ, on-mountain accommodation is a rarity. The nearest places to stay for Whakapapa are at Whakapapa Village, 6km below the resort or National Park Village, about 25 minutes away. And I thought Australia was the master of obvious naming: ‘These mountains with snow on them; what do you reckon we call them ... The Snowy Mountains?’ But the Kiwis can play the same game, it seems. We split our week with a few nights at Turangi, 40 minutes from Whakapapa and the nearest town of any size, and Taupo, a further 40 minutes from the resort. Turoa is accessed from the cute-as-a-button town of Ohakune, 20 minutes below, which has plenty of accommodation.

Schnabel family go the jump with Mt Ngauruhoe behind, Whakapapa Village.

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The perfect volcanic cone of Mt Ngauruhoe.

"Whakapapa is all bowls, valleys and rocky volcanic ridges stretching some distance across the mountain, whilst Turoa has wider runs on a face of Ruapehu that drops down from the true summit"

A SKI SLOPE FOR ALL THE FAMILY Despite being on the same mountain â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Whakapapa on the north side, Turoa on the south west corner â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the skiing is quite different. Whilst both are high above the treeline, Whakapapa is all bowls, valleys and rocky volcanic ridges stretching some distance across the mountain, whilst Turoa has wider runs on a face of Ruapehu that drops down from the true summit, 2797m Tahurangi, the high point of the North Island. Certainly our mixed ability family group were able to enjoy skiing together on the open faces at Turoa whilst some of us also enjoyed exploring the more complex topography at Whakapapa. At one point the term sticking together took on a new meaning. Skiing too fast, my grandson caught an edge and tumbled down a slope. Mum rattled into him in an attempt to arrest his slide. They tangled together and slid on together. With grandfather heading in the for the rescue, he joined the rolling party and ultimately dad, hero of the moment, brought us all to a stop, legs and skis everywhere, laughs and tears in tandem.

Skiing an active volcano was a thrill for all at Whakapapa.

Weather's bad? Grab a lift inside.

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Adventure New Zealand The Pinnacles with Mount Ngauruhoe floating behind, at Whakapapa.

PLAN YOUR NZ TRIP Getting There Numerous airlines will fly you to Auckland. Hiring a car is the best way to give you the freedom to get around and up to the resorts. It is about three hours from Auckland Airport to Taupo and a further 1.5 hours to Whakapapa ski resort. An alternative would be to fly to Wellington which is about 3.5 hours drive to Okahune and a further half hour to Turoa ski resort. Skiing Check out the official site for everything to do with Whakapapa and Turoa ski areas: ski conditions, weather, ski passes, hire and lessons and more. www.mtruapehu.com Accommodation and general information North Island Ski Holiday's website will help you plan your ski holiday. Destination Great Lake Taupo www.greatlaketaupo. com is a great resource for everything from accommodation to activities. www.northislandskiholiday.com Kayaking Taupo Kayaking Adventures runs kayaking tours on Lake Taupo as well as MTB hire and rides on the Great Lake Trail. www.tka.co.nz Tongariro River Rafting – various grades of whitewater rafting throughout the year on the upper Tongariro River. www.trr.co.nz Rapids Jet Hang on – no paddling required through the Tongariro River rapids. www.rapidsjet.com Adrift Tours Walking tours including the classic Tongariro Crossing. www.adriftnz.co.nz

TWO RESORTS, ONE PASS, VARYING WEATHER Chatting to the locals including Couchy, Turoa’s resident weather forecaster with 40 years' experience who also doubled as owner of Fire, the resort’s Search and Rescue dog, it was apparent that the weather could be very different at the same time at the two resorts. "Ensure you compare both resort forecasts," said Couchy as Anna and Anders patted the lava black coloured Fire. One important similarity – the same ski pass works for both resorts. For beginner skiers Happy Valley at Whakapapa is definitely the place to be. This sheltered, easy angled, wide valley right at the base of the resort, is a newbie skier’s paradise. It has received much new investment to include a series of four covered carpet lifts and a double chairlift. It also has the aforementioned Snow Factory as well as its own elevator to take you up and down to the main resort base.

Orakei Korako This thermal park gives a great introduction to the thermal wonderland of the Taupo region. www.orakeikorako.co.nz Taupo Debretts Geothermal hot pool resort offering soaks of different temperatures and 'cool' waterslides for the kids. www.taupodebretts.co.nz Huka Prawn Park Prawn-flavoured fun for all the family. www.hukaprawnpark.co.nz

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Looking down Happy Valley at Whakapapa.

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SNOW-FREE ADVENTURES ABOUND It certainly wasn’t our plan to ski every day as, apart from the pleasures of the prawn, there were other family adventures to be ticked off. On Lake Taupo itself we skimmed stones across the mirror-calm waters of what is New Zealand’s largest and deepest body of water. And, whilst in most similar latitudes only the brave would swim in mid-winter, this geothermal wonderland ensures there are plenty of places in or near Taupo to get into hot water. Ask the locals where the best places are on the shores of the lake or surrounding creeks. A number of operations have naturally tapped into the hot springs to offer spas and everything that goes with them. At Taupo Debretts, as adults soaked sore ski muscles in a hot pool, kids we thought we had tired out on the slope came back to life when they saw waterslides dropping into the warmth. Back on the lake, despite some cold rain showers, we all took off in double sea kayaks on a 10km return paddle to the Maori rock carvings with Taupo Kayaking Adventures. It’s a very doable paddle from Acacia Bay near Taupo and is well worth it to view cliff carvings that, whilst only 40 years or so old, depict Maori stories that go back 800 years or more. The sun timed its appearance perfectly as we paddled up to the cliff in perfect late afternoon light.

This picture and below: Riding the family-friendly W2K trail, Lake Taupo.

Adventure New Zealand

Rapid Jet does the heart-starting Waikato River rapids tours in Taupo.

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Coming the raw prawn at the Huka Prawn Park.

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TAUPO, WE ARE FALLING FOR YOU Near Taupo, the power of Huka Falls never fails to impress and never more so than if you’re lucky enough to see a kayaker disappear over the edge into the maelstrom. On this trip we didn’t get to paddle rapids (although Garth from Tongariro River Rafting runs whitewater trips all year round as he has for nearly 30 years now) but I buried some guilt under grandchild pressure and found myself careering crazily through rapids on a New Zealand staple - a Kiwi invention no less - the jetboat. We spun, bumped, screamed and generally got a bit wet with Rapids Jet at up to 80km/h and one 1L per kilometre. There is nowhere in New Zealand that has not been caught up in the love of mountain biking (and, I kid you not, that includes the actual Road to Nowhere). The Taupo region has made a substantial investment in trails with its jewel in the crown being the Great Lake Trail which winds around sections of the north western lakeshore for some 60km in total. The grade is low but very enjoyable for all levels of riders and we took off one morning to ride the classic 13km W2K section. Well, we actually rode K2W – Kinross to Whakaipo. Not super technical, but fun for sure, it was a perfect outing for keen riding families and nine-year-old Anders managed it well enough. I’d mountain biked down a volcano, Mt Etna in Italy, but had never before skied on one before this trip to Mt Ruapehu. There was certainly a special vibe that came from linking turns down an active volcano. The whole geothermal nature of the region added to that atmosphere and, of course, it meant a natural hot spa was never too far away to soothe ski-weary limbs. Add to this the myriad of adventures available year-round and there’s much to be gained from a winter holiday with friends and certainly with family up on the ski slopes of Mt Ruapehu and down around the shoreline of Lake Taupo. Now, where did I put that prawn rod?

Skimming stones at the serene Lake Taupo,

Hot beaches at Lake Taupo make mid-winter swimming possible. The family kayaking from Acacia Bay near Taupo to see Maori carvings.

Anna and Kate at the Maori Rock Carvings, Lake Taupo.

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OUTDOOR TO GO

What's on around Australia Matt Jones performs in the Crankworx Slopestyle in Les Gets, France on June 24, 2018 Picture Credit: Nathan Hughes/ Red Bull Content Pool

TRAIL RUNNING

15 Jul 2018 The Trail Running Series presented by The North Face #2

Smiths Gully, Yarra Valley, Victoria

15 Jul 2018 Jolly Jumbuck

Bells Rapids, Western Australia

22 Jul 2018 Gungahlin Gallop Hall, ACT

4 Aug 2018 Truth or Consequences

5 Aug 2018 The Trail Running Series presented by The North Face #3

Silvan, Melbourne, Victoria

12 Aug 2018 Waterfall Trail Runs

Nerang, Queensland

18 Aug 2018 Mighty Jarrah Trail Run Dwellingup, Western Australia

19 Aug 2018 Lake Manchester Trails

Mountain trail ultra running PICTURE: Getty

Lake Manchester, Queensland

Jarrahdale, Western Australia

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Winter running PICTURE: Getty

19 Aug 2018 Glenbrook Marathon Glenbrook, New South Wales

25 Aug 2018 Judgement Tree Night Race TBA - Near Perth, Western Australia

1 Sep 2018 Coastal Classic

Royal National Park, New South Wales

2 Sep 2018 Run Rotto Bidi

Rottnest Island, Western Australia

8 Sep 2018 Grapest 5km Run

Pipers Brook, Tasmania

9 Sep 2018 Sri Chinmoy Mirambeena 16km

Mirambeena reserve, NSW

9 Aug 2018 Reef to Reef MTB

15 Sep 2018 Surf Coast Century 2018 100km & 50km ultra marathon

18 Aug 2018 Dwellingup 100 MTB Classic

Anglesea, Victoria

16 Sep 2018 The Trail Running Series presented by The North Face #4 Anglesea, Victoria

23 Sep 2018 Sri Chinmoy half marathon, 10km & 5km Melbourne, Victoria

MTB

22 Jul 2018 Paluma Push

Paluma, Queensland

22 Jul 2018 SCUM XC Round 3

Coondoo, Nowra, New South Wales

28 Jul 2018 Shimano MTB GP, Rd 3 Coondoo, New South Wales

5 Aug 2018 Fox Superflow Sealed by Stan's - Rd 4 Jolly Nose

Port Macquarie, New South Wales

Cairns, Queensland

Dwellingup, Western Australia

23 Aug 2018 The Redback MTB Stage Race

Sergio Layos performs at Red Bull Holy Bike in La Pinilla, Spain on May 13, 2018 PICTURE CREDIT:Nacho Trueba / Red Bull Content

Alice Springs, Northern Territory

25 Aug 2018 Diamonds in the Dirt - Women's Only Event

Adventure Race 28 Jul 2018 The Wildfire Raid

Awaba MTB Park, Cooranbong, New South Wales

2 Sep 2018 Fox Superflow Sealed by Stan's - Championships Canberra, ACT

8 Sep 2018 Shimano MTB GP, Rd 4 Stromlo Stromlo Forest Park, ACT

15 Sep 2018 Terra Australis MTB Epic

Cape York, Queensland

22 Sep 2018 The Flow-n-Five Fest

Coondoo, New South Wales

Race Series - Blue Mountains

Glenbrook, New South Wales

Kindilan Adventure Camp, Redland Bay, Queensland

PADDLE

11 Aug 2018 Hells Bells 2018

Northam, Western Australia

TBA - Near Sunshine Coast, Queensland

25 Aug 2018 Maximum Adventure Race Series - Brisbane

Enoggera, Brisbane, Queensland

15 Sep 2018 The Mojo Raid

Lake Moogerah, Queensland

22 Sep 2018 Maximum Adventure 113

15 Jul 2018 Northam to Toodyay 4 Aug 2018 Avon Descent

Avon River, Western Australia

30 Sep 2018 SunSmart Classic Paddle

Deep Water Point Reserve, Western Australia

24 Nov 2018 The Doctor

Rottnest Island to Hillarys Marina, Western Australia

last shot

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BLUE MOUNTAINS, AUSTRALIA A competitor contemplates the path ahead during the 2018 Ultra-Trail Australia 100km PICTURE CREDIT: Mark Watson/Incite Images

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Lying in our own infinity pool, 85 metres up, with that view. That was a moment. The plunge pool at Gunlom Falls completely blew us away. So perfect you couldn’t even dream it. Just like so much of the Northern Territory, it was more than we expected! More places to stop, more interesting, more diverse and more sheer fun. Honestly? It puts other holidays in perspective. Travis Godfredson, his wife Emma and three children after their recent NT drive holiday.

To plan your NT family drive holiday, visit northernterritory.com/drive Gunlom, Kakadu National Park.

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SOME MOMENTS STAY WITH YOU.

OUTDOOR ISSUE #1807 (Jul-Aug 2018)

Articles inside

Adventure: Australia's Alpine Backcountry

Adventure: Scottish Highlands Trekking