Stage 1: Stitched Up, To what extent are Generation Z consumption habits influenced by Fast Fashion? by emrhodes99

STITCHED UP To what extent are Generation Z consumption habits influenced by Fast Fashion?

CONTENTS

1: INTRODUCTION 1.1 INTRODUCTION 1.2 AIM 1.3 OBJECTIVES

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2. LITERATURE REVIEW 2.1 INTRODUCTION FASHION 2.2 WHAT IS IT? 2.3 SUPPLIER-DRIVEN VS CONSUMER-BASED 2.4 WHAT NEXT? CONSUMPTION 2.5 CHANGING CONSUMPTION 2.6 OVER-CONSUMPTION SOCIAL MEDIA 2.7 SOCIAL MEDIA 2.8 BRANDS AS FRIENDS MIND THE GAP 2.9 INTENTION-BEHAVIOUR GAP 2.10 INTERNAL VS EXTERNAL

3. METHODOLOGY 3.1 INTRODUCTION 3.2 SECONDARY RESEARCH 3.3 SAMPLE GROUP 3.4 ONLINE SURVEY 3.5 FOCUS GROUP 3.6 WARDROBE SURVEYS 3.7INSTAGRAM POLL 2

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4. ATTITUDES & BELIEFS 4.1 SUSTAINABILITY AS SECONDARY 4.2 PRICE OVER EVERYTHING 4.3 PRICE AND CONSUMPTION 4.4 NOT MY PROBLEM 4.5 CHAPTER INSIGHTS

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5. INSTAGRAM AGE 5.1 INSTAGRAM INFLUENCERS 5.2 IMPLUSE BUYING 5.3 SOCIAL MEDIA HIGH 5.4 CHAPTER INSIGHTS

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6. SHARING ECONOMY 6.1 I WANT IT NOW 6.2 RENTAL 6.3 CHAPTER INSIGHTS

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7. CONCLUSIONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 7.1 CONCLUSION 7.2 CRITICAL REFLECTIONS 7.3 PESTLE ANALYSIS

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8. WHATS NEXT? SCENARIO PLANNING 8.2 TECH-ED 8.3 SOCIAL MEDIA CHIC 8.4 RENTAL ROBOTS

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9. REFERENCES

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10. BIBLIOGRAPHY

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11. IMAGE REFERENCES

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12 APPENDIX

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INTRODUCTION 1.1 INTRODUCTION â&#x20AC;&#x153;Society has reached a point where our current consumption behaviours are inflicting catastrophic damage on the environment (World Animal Foundation, 2019)â&#x20AC;?. Fashion is the second most polluting industry on the planet (United Nations, 2019). Producing 20% of global wastewater and 10% of global carbon emissions (UN environment programme, 2018), it is apparent that its unsustainable nature cannot continue. However, recent research has shown that consumers generate half of this impact (Baltaci, 2018), meaning consumption is now just as harmful as production. This report will examine current consumption habits and determine what influence the fast fashion industry has had on these. Firstly, key themes within the topic will be identified by examining existing research. Primary research will then bridge the gaps presented from the literature, in which the results will be critically reflected upon, providing key insights for future business development.

1.2 AIM The aim of this research is determine the impact fast fashion and social media is having on Generation Z consumption behaviours and what this means for the future.

1.3 OBJECTIVES -To investigate the paradox between Generation Z attitudes towards sustainability and their actual buying behaviours. -To discover what effect the fast fashion industry has had on product lifecycles. -To identify what role social media plays in facilitating fast fashion and excessive consumption. -To uncover existing attitudes towards alternative models of consumption.

WHAT DO WE KNOW NOW THAT WE DIDNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T KNOW BEFORE?

LITERATURE REVIEW 2.1 INTRODUCTION To justify the research proposal, existing literature, within the scope of the investigation, was synthesised and evaluated to establish â&#x20AC;&#x153;a firm foundation for advancing knowledgeâ&#x20AC;? (Webster and Watson, 2002), and consequently produce a thorough and relevant study. The literature review attempts to explore the information from a scientific and psychological perspective to identify the key concepts and themes. These findings will be discussed to assess the impact they are having on the fashion industry, whilst highlighting their limitations and opposing views. Together, these methods should help to identify prevailing gaps in the knowledge and therefore provide a direction for the research.

FAST FASHION 2.2 WHAT IS IT?

2.4 WHAT NEXT?

Fast Fashion is a term used to describe the readily available, cheaply made apparel of today (Bick, Halsey, Ekenga and Christine, 2018). Exploding in the early 2000s (James, 2019), the upsurge of globalisation made it possible to massproduce clothes at pocket change prices; democratising fashion by making it easily accessible to all class groups (Bick, Halsey, Ekenga and Christine, 2018).

Nonetheless, fashion has become a big business, worth £32 billion to the UK economy alone (House of Commons Environmental Audit Committee, 2019). However, there are widespread concerns that this existing fast fashion business model is “encouraging over-consumption and generating excessive waste” (House of Commons Environmental Audit Committee, 2019), as disastrous environmental impacts are pressing for a systematic change. In spite of this, the consumer-driven perspective mentioned above, suggests that the consumer’s role is of central importance to the fast fashion system meaning if the system has to change the attitudes of consumers must change first.

2.3 SUPPLIER-DRIVEN VS CONSUMER-BASED In the past research has focused on this phenomenon from the supplier perspective (Gabrielli, Baghi and Codeluppi, 2013) , with a wealth of literature stating the model was born through supply chain improvements to achieve an advantage in the market. However, by suggesting the fast fashion model only evolved as a quicker response to changes in the market place, the approach doesn’t consider what role changing consumer consumption practices played in transforming the fashion system. On the other hand, more recent research has shifted towards the consumer-driven approach that suggests the ever-changing expectations of consumers is what sparked this change (Gabrielli, Baghi and Codeluppi, 2013). That the rapid pace that information and trends are now available around the globe has resulted in increased consumer demand for the newest styles in more affordable options (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). 9

CONSUMPTION 2.5 CHANGING CONSUMPTION The accelerated response of fast fashion supply chains has revolutionised customer attitudes towards fashion consumption (McNeil and Moore, 2015). Historically fashion preceded the seasons, with designs often created months in advance (Gabrielli, Baghi and Codeluppi, 2013), suggesting that customers were merely passive receivers with trends determined for them. However, fast fashion allows for a trickle-up influence from consumers (Hall, 2017), where their ideas and preferences are incorporated quickly into the design, meaning autonomy is taken away from designs and given to consumers. Changing consumer lifestyles, with a constant demand for newness (Barnes and Greenwood, 2006), meant the industry had to respond to trends to create more choice rapidly. Thus, creating a â&#x20AC;&#x153;culture of impulse buyingâ&#x20AC;? (McNeil and Moore, 2015) as new styles become available every week.

2.6 OVER-CONSUMPTION There is a common understanding that this has led to overconsumption of fashion amongst consumers. Low prices as a consequence of efficient production mean that consumers now think of clothes as disposable (Hall, 2017), indicating they now value the ease and excitement of buying something new more than the clothing itself. A knock-on effect is “shorter practical service lives for garments” (Zamani, Sandin and Peters 2017) as clothing is seen to have little value, it is often only worn a few times before being discarded. Furthermore, if consumers do not value clothing when they use, it is unlikely that they are concerned with what happens to it post-use, and this has detrimental implications for the environment. In Britain alone, 300,000 tonnes of clothes are sent to landfill every year (James, 2019), however this ‘throwaway culture’ is embedded across the economy not just the clothing sector (Environmental Audit Committee, 2019). It is apparent that trying to persuading consumers to buy less clothing will not be successful as a broader cultural change is needed across the entire consumer society if consumption habits are to change. Despite this, just buying sustainable alternatives is not sufficient enough if consumers are still mindlessly purchasing them at the same rate. The focus, therefore, needs to shift on getting consumers to be conscious of their buying habits and educating them on the advantages of alternative consumption systems, but this is only achievable through changing government legislation.

SOCIAL MEDIA 2.7 SOCIAL MEDIA Although there is a common consensus in the academic literature that social media has facilitated the explosion of fast fashion, changing not only how clothes are presented but consumed (Hsiao, Wang, Wand and Kao, 2019), the influence of Instagram on consumption behaviour bears further interrogation. 73% of people said they would be more likely to purchase an item online after seeing it on social media (McCarthy, 2013), clearly illustrating the platforms influence on consumption, and suggesting it plays a key role creating the “culture of impulse buying” (McNeil and Moore, 2015); acting as a vehicle of expediting the newest trends.

2.8 BRANDS AS FRIENDS Social media has provided a unique marketing opportunity for brands, enabling them to break down corporate barriers (McCarthy, 2013) and position themselves as a ‘friend’ to consumers rather than a business. As research has shown that 90% of people more likely to purchase from a friend’s recommendation (Saleh, 2019), it suggests how social media could have increased consumption by changing consumer’s conscious perceptions of brands to a ‘friend’ recommending a new outfit, rather than a business selling a product. However, unlikely to be the sole reason for increased consumption, research has focused on the introduction of influencers who further perpetuate this notion of ‘friends’.

Academic literature has found influencers to be a credible channel that has significant impact in swaying consumer behaviour (Johansen and Guldvik, 2017), as although they are lesser well known than celebrities they still have an impact on consumers. The fact they are impactful but not famous could explain why influencers are so persuasive, as consumers may feel they are more authentic and relatable, and so may be more likely to buy into their recommendations. Despite this, limited research exists that examines the direct impact influencer marketing has on purchasing behaviours, presenting a gap for further research.

MIND THE GAP 2.9 INTENTION-BEHAVIOUR GAP Sustainable fashion has emerged as a response to these rising environmental concerns over recent years, but research has shown that, while consumers are said to be progressively concerned about the environment, this does not necessarily translate into behaviour (Park and Ling, 2018). It implies that although these values exist they are rarely demonstrated at the checkout. Ultimately, even though sustainable fashion has become available, if consumers are not persuaded to purchase them over fast fashion, they are ineffective as they cannot provide a solution of levitating the strain on the environment. This discrepancy has been labelled the IntentionBehaviour Gap (Sheeran and Web, 2016). A wide range of studies have attempted to fully understand the phenomenon (Sheeran and Web, 2016; Hassan, Shiu and Shaw, 2016), but in terms of sustainability in fashion, studies are limited.

2.10 INTERNAL VS EXTERNAL There is considerable consensus about the importance of understanding the attitude-behaviour gap, in the context of sustainable fashion, although there have been dissenting voices as to why it exists. Birtwistle and Moore (2007) state that this paradox is down to the lack of consumer knowledge surrounding the negative environmental effects of fast fashion, suggesting that if consumers were aware of the effects of their fashion consumption they might modify their behaviour. However, these individual factors are unlikely to provide a full explanation as they do not consider external barriers to consumption such as product characteristics. Carrigan and Attla state that this discrepancy is a result of other more important factors determining purchasing behaviours (Birtwistle and Moore, 2007), such as price, trends and availability.

It becomes apparent that both perspectives must work in conjunction to close the attention-behaviour gap, as even if sustainable alternatives were as cheap and widely available as fast fashion, if consumers are not aware of their advantages they will not be motivated to purchase them and vice versa. Despite this, both of these viewpoints ignore the fact that attitudes are fluid convictions that are affected by internal and external circumstances (Antonetti and Maklan, 2014), suggesting that consumers adapt their current attitudes based on changing motivations. Therefore, consumers cannot be split so black and white into â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;only purchasing sustainable fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; or not but can move between the two.

2.11 RESEARCH GAP ANALYSIS Throughout the literature review, several research gaps and opportunities for further explanation have been identified. However, when examining the overall literature, it was clear that previous studies focused primarily on millennial consumers. Generation Z is set to overtake millennials the largest generation globally (Bakhtiari, 2019) and therefore, further research focusing on this demographic will provide highly relevant insights. Furthermore, much of the existing literature, looking at sustainable fashion avoidance, comes to a similar conclusion that a lack of consumer knowledge, regarding the harmful effects of fast fashion production on the environment, is the main driver behind this. However, as sustainability is now a massive buzzword in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s society, further research can discover if this finding is still applicable to the current consumer landscape and investigate alternative factors. 14

METHODOLOGY 3.1 iNTRODUCTION The complexity of the fast fashion phenomenon means it is difficult for a single method to fully understand it (Jenss 2016). The purpose of the methodology is to outline the overall approach that underpins the research. It aims to evaluated the research design, justifying the methods selected whilst highlighting the advantageous and disadvantageous of each. Any single method has it limits (Jenss, 2016), and so a mixed-method approach attempted to overcome this. Utilising both qualitative and quantitative methods allowed these limitations to be transcended, by comparing the data from different perspectives (Casebeer and Verhoef, M, 1997). Triangulation, consisting of these methods and the literature review, enabled a fully comprehensive study that could be confident in reflecting reality. This deep understanding meant conclusions could be developed and analysed. Each method was synthesised to align with one or more research objective to maintain a consistent research focus.

3.2 SECONDARY RESEARCH A wide range of secondary sources were evaluated to produce a thorough literature reviewfrom a variety of viewpoints. Multiple sources were used to overcome each one’s individual bias and limitations Although sustainability in the fashion industry is nothing new (Yang, Song and Tong, 2017), research into the field has increased due to the growing importance placed on climate change (Environmental Audit Committee, 2019) and, as a result, a vast amount of literature is now available. Only sources with the keywords “fashion OR clothing” AND “consumption”, in the title or abstracts, were selected for use in the literature review for it to remain pertinent to the research topic. In the field of fast fashion consumption behaviour, Birtwistle and Moore were identified as key researchers pioneering studies, and so various works, in their portfolio, were analysed for academic material at the forefront of the subject, to establish credibility throughout the study. 16

Academic journals/books made up the bulk of secondary sources; providing data on range of comprehensive studies, current research reviews and relevant debates and theories. The literature review can be confident in its reliability, as most journals are peer reviewed, where experts check for valid information. Although this process limits bias (CQ University, 2019 ), journals may be subject to the researchers views and evidence may be manipulated to support their own hypothesis, thus restricting their accuracy. However, the academic grounding they provide outweighs the negatives. Additional secondary sources included government and news reports, websites, blogs and social media, and although limited through high bias and lack of supporting data, they filled in the gaps remaining from the journals with culturally relevant and recent information. Thus, they are still valid in gaining insights if combined with other types of data.

3.3 SAMPLE GROUP

3.4 ONLINE SURVEY

For the research, the sample size was 18-24 years of age, as a wealth of literature indicates that the Generation Z cohort is born between the mid-1990s and mid-2000s (Wood, 2013; Searle, 2019; Barr, 2019). However, the minimum age for participation was set at 18 to avoid ethical implications. This age selection ensured the results were pertinent to the research topic, as being the first â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;digital nativesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (McCarthy, 2016) Gen Z are more absorbed with fast fashion and social media than older generations. They are also considering to be the most environmental engaged generation (Abu, 2019), but are also seduced by newness (Abu, 2019); providing the ideal scope to see if and how fast fashion affects their shopping habits.

An Online Survey with a minimum of 100 responses was chosen as the starting point of the primary research. It attempted to bridge the gaps highlighted through secondary research and gain initial quantitative data surrounding fast fashion purchasing behaviour.

Men and women were analysed to collect an unbiased representation of the Gen Z population, however, since all methods were based solely on voluntary participation, reflective proportions were not controlled, meaning that sampling errors could have occurred (Statistics Solutions, 2018).

Voluntary sampling (Khan Academy, 2016) was used by collecting survey participants on various social media sites. The primary focus was Instagram as recent research indicates that it is now the preferred platform of Gen Z consumers (Green, 2019). A large sample was collected time-efficiently, from various ages and genders, at no cost. However, as the survey was posted on personal social media, mainly consisting of friends, participants may share similar attitudes (Vandersteen, 2014). Therefore, results may be biased towards one particular group of consumers and so not generalizable to all Generation Z.

The survey was chosen to provide quantifiable data which was used to analyse relationships between variables, such as environmental awareness and purchasing behaviours, to thoroughly understand phenomena. As a high response rate was achieved, collecting 216 responses, the results can be confident in reflecting the attitudes of Generation Z consumers (Nulty, 2018) as a large sample was obtained. Despite this, due to money restrictions, only the free version of the softwear survey was available, limiting access to the first 100 answers, thereby restricting the representativeness of the findings. Nonetheless, 100 responses are still considered to be valid and therefore conclusions about behaviours could still be drawn.

3.5 FOCUS GROUP A Focus Group consisting of 6 participants was conducted to expand on topics and contextualise quantitative data from the online survey. This enabled a richer understanding, from a breadth of viewpoints. Instead of asking participants how they felt about fast fashion’s impact on the environment ‘Photo elicitation’ (UK Data Service, 2019) was used to stimulate their immediate emotional responses from printed images depicting these, with discussion being subsequently invited. This was effective in achieving reliable results as it allowed to breakthrough “superficial rationality” (Suzanbell Research, 2019) and prevented participants from answering with what they thought was expected. The rest of the focus group was a semi-structured dialogue.

A list of predetermined topics and questions were prepared beforehand (Longhurst, 2013) to guide the discussion but still allowing it to develop conversationally to form valuable insights. The central aim was to discover the reasoning behind the behaviours illustrated from the secondary research and online survey. The process involved understanding participants current purchasing behaviours and discovering what role social media plays in these, as well as uncovering existing attitudes towards sharing economy fashion where participants were encouraged to justify their opinions and challenge others. Voluntary recruitment was difficult so a “ready-made” (Citizens Advice, 2015) focus group, consisting of female university friends, aged 20-22 years old, was used to overcome this.

However, this meant that the results were only representative of one group of Gen Z consumers and perhaps bias towards female attitudes, and therefore cannot be generalised to all Generation Z. Despite this, as participants were already comfortable with each other they were able to discuss responses more spontaneously than with people they had just met (Acocella, 2011), creating a more developed discussion. Furthermore, the pressure to conform was levitated, as participants shared commonalities (Citizens advice, 2015), this minimised the likelihood of a group consensus (Stokes and Bergin, 2006) and therefore increased the accuracy of responses.

3.6 WARDROBE SURVEYS

3.7 INSTAGRAM POLL

Wardrobe surveys, of multiple participants, were conducted to determine what percentage of Generation Z consumer wardrobes are unworn.

An Instagram poll was undertaken to provide quantitative data to fill in gaps remaining from the previous methods, about the influence of social media on consumption behaviours..

The wardrobe survey involved asking the participants to determine what percentage of their wardrobe they felt was unworn, and then have them find and remove all pieces that had not been worn in the last 6 months. However, since this relied on participants selfreporting, the results may have been influenced by recall bias (Spencer, Brassey and Mahtani, 2017) and could, therefore, include inaccuracies; affecting the reliability of the study. Furthermore, since all participants were university students with busy schedules, it was not feasible to count every item of clothing. To address the time constraints, the ‘wardrobe’ consisted of “three key popular garments” (Zamani, Sandin and Peters, 2017); jeans, tops (including t-shirts, shirts, bodysuits and crop tops) and dresses, so that the surveys could be completed quickly to collect accurate results. 19

Instagram was selected as recent research has shown that Generation Z consumers are highly engaged with this platform, with 65% admitting they check Instagram daily (Green, 2019). A large sample averaging 357 responses (See Appendix 5), could be collected in a short time frame since consumers were easily accessible. The results could therefore be accurate in their representation (Kalla, 2009). Despite this, there was no way to restrict who responded, meaning the results could include data collected outside the specified age range, and so could contain anomalies. However, as the collected sample was 3.6 times bigger than the minimum 100 responses the results are still reliable enough to be conclusive.

ATTITUDES & BELIEFS 4.1 SUSTAINABILITY AS SECONDARY Past research, outlined in the literature review, suggested that current consumption problems were as a result of consumers being unaware of the environmental impacts of the production and consumption of fast fashion. However, this idea was not consistent with the primary research findings as more than half (63%) of survey respondents said they are currently aware of these (See Appendix, 3), demonstrating there is already a high level of consumer knowledge within the sample. This knowledge coupled with sustainability being ranked as the least important factor to Generation Z consumers when buying clothing, indicates that others factors exist that play a more pivotal role in influencing Generation Z consumption habits than a lack of planetary concerns.

This assumption was re-enforced through the focus group, as although 100% of focus group participants reported experiencing feeling “guilty” and “sadness” when shown the environmental impacts of fast fashion, there was also a group consensus that despite this, their actual purchasing behaviours would not change. These results clearly show that there must be characteristics of fast fashion that are of high importance to Generation Z consumers as they outweigh the damaging effects it is having on the environment. Evidently, in order to address the current consumption problems, new models of consuming must not only levitate strain on the environment but also provide these beneficial characteristics otherwise Generation Z consumers will not adopt them.

4.2 PRICE OVER EVERYTHING The literature review provides further insight into these characteristics; suggesting that factors particularly relevant to clothing consumption itself, such as price, availability and trends, are critical in determining purchasing behaviour. These factors were coherent with the primary research findings as survey respondents ranked Price, Quality and Convenience as the three most important factors when buying clothing (See Appendix 3). However, there was an overwhelming consensus, across all research methods, that price alone was the overruling factor in influencing Generation Z consumption behaviour.

“I think it all links but I think like quality and obviously like how it looks, and stuff is all important, but I think ultimately price is what it comes down too. If I was a millionaire I would shop anywhere cos I wouldn’t care about how much it was so therefor you could afford to buy more expensive, sustainable things but like as a student I can’t afford to like shop, I don’t know, wherever but that’s why we choose fast fashion brands” (Participant 1, 2019 See Appendix, 4).

Within this, the consumer acknowledges that, as fast fashion consumers, they are aware they need to shop more sustainably , but believe they currently cannot afford to do so. It suggests that although price is the dominant factor, in their purchasing decisions, it is viewed as a situational barrier against buying sustainably rather than an influence in purchasing fast fashion; illustrating that it is the perceived accessibility of sustainable options that is shaping Generation Z consumption habits rather than fast fashion itself. Despite this, it can be argued that the low prices that define fast fashion have skewed consumer perceptions of price. “We are so used to fast fashion prices that sustainability seems expensive but actually it is because fast fashion is so cheap” (Participant 1, 2019 See Appendix 4), indicating that fast fashion has acclimatised consumers to such low prices as the industry standard. It becomes apparent that fast fashion has created this perceived price barrier for buyers against sustainable products, as Generation Z only consider sustainable alternatives too costly compared to the price of fast fashion. Fast fashion is therefore implicit in subconsciously influencing Generation Z consumption habits, as it has conditioned consumers to assume clothing above this price is inaccessible, thus limiting their intake to fast fashion brands.

4.3 PRICE & CONSUMPTION The research highlighted that consumers believe price is the driving force behind their over-consumption. Stating that if clothing was not as cheap, they might not purchase as much and would wear what they already owned (Participant 1, 2019). However, the literature suggested that it is not price itself directly fuelling overconsumption but that low prices have decreased the perceived emotional value of clothing to consumers (Hall, 2017) and that this new â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;disposableâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; attitude towards clothing is driving over-consumption. This could explain why an average of 43% of Generation Z wardrobes are unworn (See Appendix 5), as if consumers no longer value clothes they may only be worn a few times before being discarded. If the price of garments increased, because they are being made more sustainably (Wolfe, 2019) this could lead consumers to reevaluate this current disposable view of clothing and thus, extend the garments service life by wanting to re wear it.

However, unless all brands attempt to be sustainable these consumers will still opt for the cheap fast fashion brands (Participant 6, 2019), highlighting a need for new government legislation. Furthermore, consumers stated if they were more aware of what went into making a garment, and the amount of natural resources that are used then then they may re-think buying something that is not essential (Participant 4 2019). This demonstrates a demand for total transparency across fashion supply chains further emphasising a need for changing government legislation.

4.4 NOT MY PROBLEM A common theme across the research was that participants didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take responsibility for the environmental affects fashion and consumption is having on the planet. They placed the blame on fast fashion brands, insinuating that consumers are merely pawns in their missions to make as much money as possible (Participant 1, 2019). However, it became apparent that this lack of ownership of the problem was due to consumers believing they, as individuals, could not make a substantial difference (Participant 3, 2019), suggesting that they believed only brands possess the power to make a significant change. Valor (2008) suggested that people may only be willing to alter their buying behaviours if they believed it would significantly contribute to solving a planetary issue, and evidently, Generation Z consumers currently do not. This could provide further explanation towards the Attitude-Behaviour Gap, discussed in the literature review.

As even if knowledge exists and sustainable alternatives are easily accessible, if consumers do not believe their purchases will make a difference, they will not be motivated to change. However, consumers generate half the impact of the fashion industry (Baltaci, 2018), meaning that consumption patterns are just as harmful as production. If consumers were more aware of the role they play directly causing this damage, then this belief may be disrupted, highlighting a need for further consumer education.

Although, later focus group discussion contradicted this assumption when participants admitted to making small sustainable changes in other aspects of daily life such as taking carrier bags to the supermarket, rather than paying for them (Participant 1, 2019) or using a refillable water bottle rather than buying a plastic one (Participant 4, 2019).Despite consumers having strong beliefs about their actions being insignificant to fashion consumption, when put into practice in other problematic consumption areas, such as plastics, their behaviours are not reflective of this mind-set. Thus reaffirming the conclusion, from â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Sustainability as Secondaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (mentioned above), that fast fashion must hold characteristics too important to Gen Z consumers to be compromised.

Ahmad, Salman and Ashiq (2015) highlighted how people use fashion as an outlet to express themselves, and this could explain why consumers do not make these same small changes regarding fashion. If consumers view personal style as a way of representing themselves, they may believe that if they compromise this, they are therefore compromising their identity, insinuating sustainable clothing may be seen as unfashionable by Generation Z consumers. If this stigma is broken sustainable consumption may become more widely adopted, again emphasising a need for further consumer education and an opportunity for creative marketing campaigns.

4.5 CHAPTER INSIGHTS There are strong consumer beliefs that price is the one fundamental factor controlling their purchasing behaviours. Fast fashion is influencing behaviours as it has conditioned consumers to believe such low prices are the industry standard. Sustainable clothing cannot become mainstream until consumer perceptions of price are altered. Personal style and individuality is a crucial factor to Generation Z consumers which can even outweigh their concerns for the planet. Consumers take fashion for granted. A broader cultural change is needed to change the way consumers view fashion if consumption is to change. Consumers are unaware that consumption patterns are just as harmful as production, and so strong beliefs were present that brands should be held entirely responsible.

INSTAGRAM AGE 5.1 INSTAGRAM INFLUENCERS Within the primary research, the impact of social media on Generation Z consumption habits was strongly presented, as 72% of respondents stated they believed social media strongly influenced their buying behaviours (See Appendix 6). Consistent with the literature consensus that social media has been a driving force in the explosion of fast fashion, and thus, is complicit in the environmental damage it is inflicting. However, when explored further, in the focus group, it became evident that ‘Influencers’ specifically were the main driving force behind their clothing consumption. Consumers were happy to buy something purely because they had seen in on someone else (Participant 1, 2019) and even saved images of peoples outfits on Instagram for when they online shop (Participant 2, 2019). This provides a possible explanation as to why 76% of survey respondents admitted their last clothing purchased was something they purely wanted rather than an essential (See Appendix 3).

Burns (2009) suggested Girard’s theory of Mimetic Desire is how fashion diffuses through society, by one individual’s desire for an item catalysing the desire for that product in another, and this could explain why influencers have such an impact on consumption behaviours. It suggests consumers often purchase because they have seen a product on someone else and feel like they have to have it, when they otherwise may not have purchased. As a response, the Advertising Standards Authority recently introduced that influencers must legally specify that they are being paid to advertise a brand (Hosie, 2018), but the primary research findings clearly demonstrate this is having little effect limiting consequent consumption behaviours. This could be because consumers view influencers lifestyles as aspirational. If they purchase what the influencer has, they may believe their lifestyle is becoming more like theirs. Explaining why consumers still purchase even though they are aware it is blatantly an advertisement.

5.2 IMPLUSE BUYING The literature review highlighted that fast fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s low prices have enabled consumers to think of clothing as disposable , and that this new attitude to clothing is shortening garments lifecycles. However, the primary research demonstrated that social media could also be responsible. Consumers stated they believed Instagram cuts out the browsing process with its â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;swipe up linksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Participants 3 and 4, 2019) that take consumers straight to a products page, and over half (56%) of survey respondents agreed that this has enabled impulse buying (See Appendix, 6). Psychology has shown that impulse buyers tend to be more social and image-concerned (Zimmerman, 2012), as Instagram is a social platform where users sharing images of themselves and their lives, this can explain why the platform has such an influence on its users impulsive buying behaviours. This strong consensus provides further explanation as to why 43% of Generation Z wardrobes are unworn (See Appendix 5). As, if consumers are only purchasing items because of their instant accessibility, they likely have not taken the time to consider whether they will actually wear the item in the long term ,and therefore only wear items once or twice before being discarded. If consumers were stopped and questioned on the rationality of their purchases, the impulse process may be disrupted, demonstrating an opportunity for new technologies that are designed to intervene. .

5.3 SOCIAL MEDIA HIGH Despite this, impulse buying is unlikely to be social media’s only influence in shortening garment lifecycles, as later discussion revealed that consumers considered a piece of clothing to be old after posting a picture in it on Instagram (Particpants 1, 2 and 4, 2019). However, this was only salient in terms of “a statement piece like a dress” (Participant 3, 2019) rather than everyday attire. Recent psychology research has dubbed Generation Z as “Generation Anxiety” (Briggs, 2020) with a Pew Research Centre study finding 70% of the Gen Z population stated anxiety was a significant issue among their peers (The Economist, 2019). Clothes have been found to ease social anxiety (Benson, 2019), however, the feel-good hormone that enables this is only released when a new purchase occurs (Benson, 2019), not by utilising existing ones. Explaining not only why generation Z consumption is so high, but also why apparel lifecycles have declined. As, if new clothes must be continually purchased to alleviate anxiety, they are likely bought, worn once and discarded as they no longer provide this emotional gratification.

Furthermore, Maslow’s Hierarchy of needs illustrates that when a person’s basic psychological and safety needs are met they experience greater motivation for social needs and self-actualisation (See Appendix 8), and Mair (2018) states that comments and evaluations from others can influence self-esteem and self-identity. If these likes and comments stop because viewers have already seen an outfit before, this social gratification is gone, and this could explain why Gen Z consumers admitted they would not want to be seen in the same thing twice. Persuading consumers to purchase less clothing through education of the damaging effects of their consumption will unlikely be effective alone as it prevents the emotional and social gratification of a new purchase. Sustainable consumption models must, therefore, enable this but also attempt to lengthen product lifecycles, highlighting an opportunity for rental and subscription brands.

5.4 CHAPTER INSIGHTS The chapter provided insights into the significant impact influencers have on consumption behaviours; however, more blatant was how seemingly aware and unbothered consumers were of this. Consumers could hold influencers in an aspirational light and believe that by purchasing what they recommend, they are attaining a better lifestyle. The rapid pace that was demanded from these brands has now created a culture of anxiety among consumers. Their excessive demand for newness had enabled a vicious circle where only ‘the new’ can resolve the anxiety it has caused. The social gratification received from posting a new outfit is a significant factor in social media’s role in driving over-consumption.

SHARING ECONOMY 6.1 I WANT IT NOW Throughout the primary research, there was a strong positive consensus towards the second-hand consumption models, with 84% of survey respondents stating they would consider buying or selling second-hand clothing (See Appendix 3). However, further focus group discussion revealed that Gen Z consumers mainly utilise platforms, such as Depop, for selling their unwanted items for financial gain (Participant, 1 2019), rather than for purchasing. The rapid pace of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s society has created a culture of impatience and instant gratification, particularly among younger generations (Taubenfeld, 2017). As second-hand sites are often Peer 2 Peer exchanges (Iran and Schrader, 2017), it is unlikely ordinary consumers possess the rapid packaging and posting capabilities as businessesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, meaning it often takes longer for the item to reach the buyer.

The instant gratification from the purchase is therefore delayed, demonstrating it is unlikely that second-hand business models will become the mainstream consumption channel. Fast fashion brands specifically are characterised by their high convenience (Wright, 2018) and their almost instant delivery abilities (Participant 1, 2019) which enable this instant gratification. Therefore, illustrating that the industry is complicit in influencing Generation Z consumption. However, extending the lifecycle of clothes by only nine months reduces carbon, water and waste footprints by 20-30% (wrap, 2015), meaning buying second-hand has significant environmental benefits. If consumers were more aware of this, they might reconsider waiting a few extra days for an item, stressing a need for further consumer education.

6.2 RENTAL However, although there was an overwhelming positive consensus about buying and renting second-hand fashion, this was not consistent with attitudes towards rental fashion. Only 26% of survey respondents said they do or would consider renting clothing (See Appendix 3), which at face value suggests consumers would prefer to own their fashion. However, the success of Uber, Spotify and Air Bnb among Generation Z (Hughes, 2017) demonstrate that an ‘access to’ approach is favourable in terms of transport, music and housing in today’s society, but not in terms of fashion. Focus group discussion could explain this as consumers raised concerns regarding hygiene issues of rental clothing and its previous wearers (Participant 1 and 5, 2019). Despite this, when questioned further on these, it became apparent that these concerns are equally applicable to second-clothing, but are often not even considered, let alone regarded to be a deterrent. Rental clothing, when compared to second-hand, is a relatively new concept, and although more widely adopted in America, it is still in its infancy in the UK (Horton, 2019).

This could explain why consumers do not as widely accept it as they are not as comfortable and accustomed to the idea of renting a wardrobe. If consumers were more aware of the environmental benefits of leasing fashion rather than owning it, these might outweigh the risks of the unknown and stigmas surrounding rental may be disrupted; highlighting a need for further education. Additionally, this negative stigma is facilitated by consumers believing current rental brands on the market do not cater to their specific fashion requirements (Participant 1, 2 and 3, 2019). If a consumer’s demand is not able to be fulfilled by a brand they are most likely not going to purchase, and so if consumers are unable to experience rental clothing their negative perceptions cannot be disproven, and the stigma remains. This illustrates a need for rental brands targeted directly towards generation Z consumers if they are to become more widely adopted.

6.3 CHAPTER INSIGHTS Despite relatively positive attitudes towards sharing economy models, unless these can provide the cheap, convenience of fast fashion, they will never be fully adopted by Generation Z consumers. Despite rental being fully adopted in nearly all aspects of Gen Z lifestyles, reservations are apparent in terms of rental fashion. Consumers believe existing rental brands are not targetted towards their fashion needs. Negative assumptions exist due to their perceived limited access, not because of disliking the concept.

0 77

CONCLUSION’S 7.1 CONCLUSION Throughout the research, Generation Z was found to have relatively high levels of existing knowledge surrounding the negative effects fashion is having on the environment. However, this was mainly prominent in terms of production rather than consumption. Consumers believed brands should be held solely responsible for tackling the consumption crisis, as they are the ones facilitating it. Strong demand for transparency across the industry became apparent, highlighting a need for not only brands, but society as a whole to take responsibility for their consumption behaviours and further education. Chapter 5 revealed how Instagram is influencing over-consumption by enabling instant access to fashion and eliminating the browsing process. Coupled with the speed of fast fashion, an ‘I want it now’ mind frame now exists.

However, the rapid pace of society has created a culture of anxiety that only newness can ease. Chapter 6 exposed the selfish nature of Generation Z consumers, showing that they would rather knowingly sacrifice the planet for next day delivery. Rental clothing still instils doubts, but more ‘Gen Z friendly brands can overcome this Overall, the report has shown that social media and the fast fashion industry are having a significant effect on Generation Z consumption habits. Their fast-paced nature is driving consumers to purchase clothing at an unsustainable rate that is leading to high levels of anxiety. Alternative sustainable consumption models are necessary; however, they will be ineffective unless a broader cultural change is affected. Attitudes towards fashion as a whole must change, so that it is no longer viewed as disposable but as a luxury, and the planet must come first.

7.2 CRITICAL REFLECTIONS Although both primary and secondary research throughout this report have led to insight concerning the influence fast fashion and social media has on Gen Z consumption behaviour, if the study was to be replicated, improvements to the research design are needed. Implementing a more extensive time frame could allow further detailed, qualitative discussions, from all segments of Gen Z consumers. As although the research provided valuable insights into female university studentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s consumption behaviours, a larger, more varied sample could provide more reliable generalisations. Furthermore, allocating funding could help to overcome recruitment difficulties. As, despite the ready-made sample overcoming social conformity issues, incentives could encourage strangers to participate, enabling the results to be more representative of a range of viewpoints. Meeting these criteria could enable the research to be more confident in truly representing how fast fashion influences Generation Z consumption habits and more valuable conclusions could be drawn. Despite this, an additional qualitative investigation is required into the logistics of the proposed recommendations, as the execution of these needs to be explored with consumers to determine their potential success. Further secondary research is needed to provide insight into the financial aspects of the proposals. As a whole, the report has provided valuable insights that are valuable to the fashion industry as it attempts to find a sustainable future.

7.3 PESTLE

P E

The UK is set to leave the European Union on the 31st January 2020 (BBC News, 2020). Uncertainty over a trade deal emulates uncertainty within the fashion industry as many garments and materials are imported (Adegeest, 2019). Leaving with no deal could mean new checks and tariffs are enforced on goods leaving and entering the UK. As fast fashion relies on globalisation for its cheap materials and labour this could create difficulties and delays, increasing the price of fashion.

The UK’s Earth Overshoot Day reached its earliest date ever at July 29th 2019 (Earth Overshoot Day, 2019). This presents a global emergency as the country is using 1.7x the earths regenerative resources (Earth Overshoot Day, 2019). Current consumption levels are clearly unsustainable, meaning materials must be viewed differently. The focus must shift from extracting raw materials to recycling and reusing those already in circulation. This may mean brands still using raw materials may incur a price increase as they become less readily available. Fast Fashion giants Zara and H&M have recently pledged to use sustainable cotton, linen and polyester to make it’s clothing (Dewan 2019). This puts pressure on other brands still using producing unsustainable materials and consumers’ may refuse to shop there

The ‘Who made my clothes’ movement by Fashion Revolution (Fashion Revolution ,2019) has brought about a wide spread demand from consumers for brands to be transparent about their supply chains. Brands who are non-compliant or are seen to be un-ethical/un-sustainable may risk being boycotted by consumers.

T L E

70% of Generation Z consumers said they prefer brands to communicate with them through Instagram (Christie, 2019). If brands are to be successful targeting these consumers, they must invest into spaces where these consumers are most receptive or they might miss essential communication.

The UK has binding legislation to meet the 2020 climate and energy targets this year (European Commission, 2019). The UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new target of net-zero greenhouse gases by 2050 (Harrabin, 2019). The fashion industry is responsible for 8% of global greenhouse gasses (Cerullo, 2019) and the industry has come under scrutiny for its unsustainability. Brands seen to not be taking measures to reduce their carbon footprint and improve their overall sustainability could risk legal implications.

Generation Z command $44 billion in spending power and are projected to over-take the over 65â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as the largest consumer segment (Netzer, 2019). This presents are huge opportunity for brands to target, if they ignore this consumer group they risk missing out on large profits. A benefit of fast fashion is that its low prices have democratised fashion making it accessible for all class groups (Bick, Halsey and Ekenga 2018). Sustainable fashion brands need to be aware of individuals with low disposable income and be able to provide an offering for these consumers as fast fashion may be all they can afford.

WHATS NEXT? Scenario planning as was used to predict possible futures, as a consequence of continuous or altered consumption habits. The future with the most apparent area of opportunity was selected and recommendations were drawn from this.

AREA OF OPPORTUNITY

CIRCULAR

Political collaboration is limited; consumers facilitate slow consumption in cultural blocks.

High technology systems such as Artificial Intelligence (AI) have revolutionised sustainable production and consumption.

DETACHED

CONNECTED

Resource scarcity has led to a global recession as trade protectionism increases and international communication breaks down.

The speed of communication and production has increased, characterising excessive over consumption and climate disaster.

LINEAR 43

RECOMMENDATIONS

S N O I TA D N E M M O C E R

8.2 TECH-ED In a Cyber/Circular world, education will be provided to consumers by the clothes themselves. All clothing will be â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;smartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; clothing, tagged with digital labels compatible with mobile phone scanners. Fashion will integrate onto Blockchain where every step of the supply chain is digitally recorded and unable to be tampered with, providing total transparency across the industry. Consumers can scan the label, view the entire lifecycle and be provided with post-use instructions. By brands taking responsibility for sustainability, this should influence consumers to do the same. Therefore, brands need to invest in new technology and Artificial Intelligence to find innovative ways of producing fully re-usable and recyclable fabrics.

8.3 SOCIAL MEDIA CHIC In a Cyber/Circular world, clothing will no longer be owned but downloaded. Consumers will own skin coloured bodysuits, and 3D body-scanners will allow them to download various outfits to post on Instagram. New outfits are always instantly accessible, but no waste is produced. Therefore, brands must utilise technology to create digital versions of garments to satisfy consumer demand for newness in a sustainable way.

8.4 ROBOT RENTAL In a Cyber/Circular world, drones will replace delivery drivers. Algorithms will tailor sustainable clothing subscriptions for consumers, cutting out the browsing process completely. These will be delivered to consumers by flying drones that arrive within 30 minutes of placing an order, providing instant gratification at no cost to the planet. Therefore, brands need to invest into research and development of innovative delivery methods.

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APPENDIX 1. TIME PL AN

2. ONLINE SURVEY QUESTIONS

3. ONLINE SURVEY RESULTS

4. FOCUS GROUP For the purpose of the research participants were anonymised, for reference these are as follows: Lydia: Participant 1 Nikki: Participant 2 Jenna: Participant 3 Liv: Participant 4 Sophie: Participant 5 Mhairi: Participant 6

ER: Hi I’m Emily thank you for coming, I’ve given each of you an information sheet about the research project I’m undertaking if you’d like to just take a few minutes to read through it and then I’ll explain what todays focus group is going to be about okay. (Sounds of agreement) ER: Erm todays focus group is going to focus on the part of the project that is looking at your attitudes towards sustainability and then looking at your actual buying behaviours, as well as the impact social media is having on these. For the first task I’m going to show you a series of images and all I want to do is just gage your initial reaction to those, and the second I’m going to ask you to about the brands you purchase from the most and just have a discussion about why that is. Any questions? (Shaking of heads) ER: I’ll be recording the discussion and typing up a transcript later, if you would like a copy of this I can arrange for one to be sent to you. And I just want to reiterate the point on the fact sheet that you do not have to continue with the focus group now you have been given all the information if you’re not comfortable and you can withdraw at any point okay? everyone still alright to proceed? (Sounds of agreement) ER: Great let’s get started. ER: So I just want to check before we start does everyone understand the term sustainability and what it means? All group: Yes ER: So, Can I just ask you all what you think about sustainability at the moment and what it means to you? Lydia: Erm I think sustainability is making like conscious choices to better the environment with my like shopping habits or like food habits, travel anything, like any ways in which that I can make more like environmentally friendly conscious choices in daily life. ER: Anyone else? Nikki: It’s just basically saving the environment Rest of Group: Yeah I agree/ (Sounds of agreement) ER: So now I’m going to show you a series of images and statements about fast relating to sustainability, and I just want your initial reactions. (Places images on table) 69

ER: So if you just want to look through those and then tell me your reaction to the photos. Liv: Quite shocked Sophie: Sadness Jen: Really sad ER: Why do they make you feel sad? Sophie: Because its putting in perspective, like visually in perspective what are like habits and how we treated the world, like it’s our fault isn’t it so. Lydia: I think it’s quite worrying, erm I think like it its worrying in a sense that like brands are doing this and as the consumer who buys into it and like who like we have this effect, I think it’s bad that we are never, well not never but I feel like we are rarely exposed to these sorts of images, I think if brands were to project these, obviously they wouldn’t cos they wanna make money but I think if images like these were more like accessible and like more projected into to daily life then I think people would consider making different choices. Sophie: I think this picture really puts into perspective like how much clothing we throw out like, fast fashion as a whole like I don’t think anyone realises how much we actually throw out. Mhairi: I think you don’t realise like that one about the sea, like you don’t think about how like that’s affecting it. Lydia: I think yeah it puts it into perspective, like I don’t feel sometimes if I like I don’t know throw clothes out instead of recycling them I don’t really think about the long term effect that I’m having, I just think about like oh it’s got a hole in it so I bin it or something but I should think about upcycling it to prevent this happening. Nikki: I feel like it makes me feel guilty (Sounds of agreement) Nikki: Cos I’m like, I contribute to this and when I’m like recycling it makes no difference if it’s gonna be, like fashion is having this much of an impact and like in some ways we are kind of making it better by using stuff like Depop ,so like in those senses were kinda like tryna get rid of the situation at the same time, but yeah it just makes me feel guilty a little bit. Jenna: Yeah I don’t think people understand like the extent of it and how like bad it actually is. Liv: I think it’s just hidden like no one talks about it. Lydia: Because I think brands don’t think it’s their responsibility to like make such a change when unfortunately, their biggest goal is to like make money Mhairi: yeah. Lydia: and like keep their business like circulating like the big loop that they’re doing of like producing more clothes to like make more money Jenna: Yeah Lydia: I think like if people, if brands were to have more, were to be more like, what’s the right word, like that more responsibility I think it would encourage consumers to do the same like to see a brand take responsibility of something like for something like the effect that they have I think I don’t know who it is Nikki: Like H&M Lydia: Like Boohoo, yeah like H&M conscious or like Boohoo do like or Pretty Little Thing can’t remember have like a recycled collection and I think to see like big brands doing something like that like makes us realises that like it’s really important. ER: So the next question was just were you already aware of the environmental impacts of fast fashion, like did you already know this was going on or, is that? Lydia: I think yeah, well I think I am aware of it, I think unfortunately as society we just try an ignore it I think. Nikki: Like in the back of our minds you know it’s happening. Lydia: and I think also because it doesn’t affect us first hand, like my beaches near where I live don’t look like that, I don’t have a landfill like on my way to Tesco like do you know what I mean, like you don’t pass these things or you don’t see it first hand, like I feel like you can easily just forget that it’s just happening, like big climate change things like that aren’t really affecting us in the western world at the moment so I think it’s easy 71 to forget that it happens.

Sophie: But I also think a part of it is we just want to buy things that are cheap so we can have more (Sounds of agreement) Sophie: it’s like overconsumption, it’s not, If we had it our way we’d be having clothes made from recycled materials that were like 5 pounds, like that’s just not the case. Lydia: Yeah Jenna: I think a lot of consumers are like, very selfish like I think what Lydia said about how you don’t think that your beaches are gonna look like that so therefor, like it doesn’t affect me or I’m only one consumer out of like however many there are so why should I, like my choices don’t matter, or my choices aren’t gonna make a difference, but I think a lot of consumers think that way which is really like harmful cos when they see it like as a whole it’s like quite worrying. Mhairi: But brands aren’t gonna stop doing it like cos if one brand starts putting up the prices then obviously people are gonna opt for like the cheaper brands. Lydia: they won’t win their competitors yeah. Mhairi: yeah so it wouldn’t really work. Lydia: I think it’s important that we do this stuff tho because I feel like if all consumers make, like if we all made a conscious choice to buy 3 less items a month, like if everyone like could pledge to that or do something like that then there would be a huge like reduction in it, it’s just like everyone needing to be aware of the impacts that it’s causing to actually make a change that’s like makes an impact. ER: Do you feel like because you’re so used to the cheap prices that if it was actually at a fair price like a sustainable price you would think that would be too expensive even though in reality it’s actually not? Lydia: Yeah, fast fashion prices like make us think that all clothes should be like under 15 pounds like Pretty Little Thing and… Sophie: ASOS Lydia: Misguided like whatever like all the cheap fast fashion brands when actually like that, I think it also comes down to like our generation and like our living situation, so like as uni students I can’t afford to spend 30 pounds on a plain white cotton t shirt but that’s just how like I think that’s the mind-set that were all in like I think if brands, if everyone was to up their prices to become more sustainable there would be nothing we could do about it you would just have to accept it, which I think isn’t necessarily a bad thing, I think also having, if all clothing was more expensive because it’s more sustainable I probably wouldn’t buy as much like oh I’m going out on Friday I want a new top Nikki: Yeah Lydia: I think you’d end up just wearing the clothes you’ve got cos it would be more expensive to buy certain things like quickly and therefor you wouldn’t do it just because you wanted something new, you’d look at what you’ve got already. ER: Erm now that you’ve seen these images do you think your shopping habits will change or not? Nikki: Honestly? No, but I feel like over time as I get older I will definitely be shopping at like different, more sustainable places like I’m not gonna be shopping at PLT and Misguided when I’m 30, absolutely not. Jenna: I definitely think it’s like our generation, like Nikki: Yeah it’s our generation Jenna: like the pressure of having to wear a new thing (Sounds of agreement) Jenna: all the time to each event and like, feeling like you’re gonna get judged if you just wear the same thing everyday Liv: yeah you don’t want to be seen in the same thing twice Jenna: Yeah Lydia: I also think were such a like greedy generation, (Sounds of agreement) 72

Lydia: and like because things are so accessible and quick and I can order 100 pounds’ worth of new clothes and they’re on my doorstep the next day, it’s like this constant like I want it now kind of like mind-set, erm I think when everything is so cheap and so accessible it’s really hard to make a like conscious change. I think I’m more aware now than I used to be in terms of like, not necessarily even just in fashion but like trying to make small changes even if it’s like silly stuff like tryna like not put my loose vegetables in a bag at the supermarket, or like little things that like don’t really feel, like I don’t need that I don’t need an extra carrier bag or like taking my own carrier bags and like not buying new ones I think I try and make little changes, but I feel like when, because fast fashion’s so cheap and accessible and easy to get hold of I don’t right now feel like I will make that many changes. Jenna: I also think it’s like, it’s very tempting as well to wanna just do it and I also think that’s, it goes back to it’s also the responsibility of like the brands themselves cos if they changed what they sell to us, then I don’t think we would be as tempted to just oh ill just buy that it’s only a couple of pounds, I feel like that would also change the way that we… Nikki: I think brands should change more than we should cos they’re the ones that giving it to us, if they stopped then it would end it ER: So do you feel they’ve caused… Nikki: They’ve caused it yeah Lydia: But then also it’s our choice to buy things Jen: yeah, and where we buy things like we can equally just buy something from like a good quality Lydia: or like second hand Jen: or like a good quality place, but it’s also like we have a choice where we can shop and we equally choose to shop at all of the fast fashion places Nikki: Yeah but if they’re gonna then give us like a five-pound top over a fifteen pound top same thing you’re gonna pick that top, so if they change their habits were gonna change, that’s the stem of it the brand, therefor I think they’re the main issue, like PLT have new warehouses in Sheffield and erm someone put it on Instagram and they got loads of hate for it because it was ridiculous, like the amount of clothes and like the space they took up for fast fashion like everything erm and people saying like it’s just a waste of money like it’s stupid like it makes me feel sick (sounds of agreement) Nikki: like just how much clothes and fast fashion is taking over like its ridiculous Lydia: I think I have made more of change in like selling things I don’t wear though, like instead of them just sitting in my wardrobe and like, I pass them on instead of like throwing them away I pass things on to like my sister or friends or like I sell it on like Depop or second hand websites and I do sometimes look on there to buy things as well erm if it’s something that I could find second hand but I don’t really feel like I’m very good at shopping in charity shops instead of like going into Primark or somewhere if like, I should be better at buying second hand whereas I’m better at selling second hand than I am buying second hand if you know what I mean. ER: Do you feel like you’d buy more second hand if it was like more accessible like if it was on website like pretty little thing? (Sounds of agreement) Jenna: I think that is one of the like issues, is that Its more effort to oh I’ve gotta like, you’ve gotta like go on Depop Lydia: and even things like it sounds so silly but takes like more time to post and you have to pay for postage whereas I’ve got like Pretty Little Thing next day and I can have it here tomorrow and I pay nothing extra just to get it here so I think it’s just the whole thing of like being a greedy like overconsumptive overconsumptious? Consumer, so like because were so used to having like things quick cheap easy (Sounds of agreement) Lydia: if it takes more than that then we won’t do it Liv: I think if brands were more open about the sort of like production process and told you, this is how much waters been used in it, like told you how 73 it’s got to each place I think you’d be abit more aware.

(Sounds of agreement) Liv: and you’d think differently about buying it, like not necessarily like it could be a fast fashion brand but it would be like this one t shirt that cost five pounds this is how much labours been put into it, this is everything, it might make you think a little bit differently about buying it Lydia: Agree, I saw a statistic about like meat consumption and I know it’s not fashion but it takes like 600 gallons of water to create one hamburger and like from that I’m actually trying to eat less beef because beef is like the worst in terms of like meat production for the planet so I think Liv: It just makes you more conscious Lydia: Like seeing a statistic like that puts it into like perspective for me and like for me just to have a burger like I can go without having a burger and save all that water that it takes to make and try and have like a better impact on the planet, so I think if brands are more open like liv said then I think it would make you like, it would affect you more. ER: So do you feel like you’re conscious of the environmental impacts but it’s like a situational thing? Like because you’re uni students you’ve not got a lot of money so you find it hard to be sustainable? Nikki: Definitely Liv: Yeah Lydia: Yeah, I think there’s a whole argument around like do you have to be wealthy to be sustainable? Which I think yes, cos sustainability is more expensive, if you think about like Grace fits brand Tala people have been like I’ve seen on her Instagram people have been like are you gonna have student discount? Is there gonna be any sales? Liv: Are you gonna do black Friday? Lydia: yeah and she’s talked about their products are the cheapest version of sustainable products that the can make, they’re 40 pounds for a pair of leggings which is actually the same price as like Gymshark and stuff which aren’t sustainable, erm but she’s talked about it on there about how that is as cheap as they can get it for sustainability and we are so used to fast fashion prices that sustainability seems expensive but actually it’s because fast fashion is so cheap. Nikki: I feel like I kind of disagree because I feel like if we budgeted with fashion like we do with like students do with like food and stuff like that we could Lydia: oh yeah, it’s a choice Nikki: yeah it’s a choice like if we were if we had this option of like buying sustainable things erm we would budget ourselves like were not used to it so we just initially we don’t do it we just look past it, it’s hard to just like start now, we’ve got all of this for us fast fashion brands that we literally just look fast it now cos we know there’s something cheaper and better out there. (Sounds of agreement) Jen: I also think like when you think about like the quality like vs like the quantity vs quality and like the amount of cheap fast fashion clothes we buy we like you really like thought about all of that and how much you buy like, you you’d be able to afford Nikki: Yeah Jen: like a few good pieces Nikki: instead Jen: and I don’t think young people realise like I’m buying loads of cheap stuff and you think it’s really cheap but equally it adds up Nikki: but then you’ll buy that one dress like a house of cb dress and you’d wear it once and wanna sell it Lydia: yeah Nikki: so it’s a kind of loop, there’s kind of like no way out (sounds of agreement)

Lydia: I also think like it’s also like a problem with stuff like people buying into trends, like if everyone were to have like a capsule wardrobe if everyone was to have that or like have a couple of staple pieces that you wear regularly then you wouldn’t feel the need to buy things so often but we are all guilty of buying into all these trends that we see like come through Instagram and like filter down from the catwalk and like the influencers wearing them we think oh I want like leather leggings for example are like in fashion at the moment and like we’re all guilty of like buying into these trends because it’s like the ‘in’ thing to have or like you wanna keep up with fashion, whereas in reality I probably don’t need a pair of leather leggings like I’ve got jeans that I could wear but instead I buy into stuff to like keep up with fashion and so I think if we were to be more like if we were to limit more like limit how much we buy into trends then I think we could also be more sustainable that way. Nikki: Yeah I bought this top off misguided the other day that I didn’t even want that much but it was £2.50 so I bought it. Lydia: The stassy collection?? Jenna: Oh my god Nikki: Literally Jenna did the same Jenna: I bought the skirt for it Nikki: I bought the top and I was like I don’t even like it that much but it’s 2-pound fifty Lydia: Yeah exactly 2 pound fifty so you buy it Jenna: Yeah it’s sat in my room with the labels still on it I’m never gonna wear it it’s really bad. ER: Erm so for the next section it’s gonna be about your actual purchasing behaviours so were just gonna go round the room this way, and everyone just state the brand that you most frequently purchase from? Lydia: One brand? ER: yeah your top brand… Nikki: That’s so hard ER: that you purchase from the most, which side would you like to start from? Lydia: That one (points to left) Nikki: It’s fine I’ve got mine; I know who it is straight away Mhairi: Recently ASOS, cos I’ve stopped shopping from pretty little thing cos I bought a jumper and it was really bad quality and them Misguided I keep ordering stuff and sending it back so I’ve just given up, but I’ve bought a few alright things from ASOS. Nikki: Is it online or highstreet? ER: Either Nikki: Mines ZARA and I’m literally wearing everything ZARA right now to prove that Jen: I know this is really bad but Primark, like honestly most things I wear are from Primark it’s really bad but Liv: I’m gonna say ZARA or Brandy Melville Lydia: I think either Pretty Little Thing or Primark, probably fairly even split depending on what I’m buying Sophie: ASOS defo ER: So when you’re shopping at these what is the most important factor to you when purchasing? Lydia: Probably price Mhairi: Yeah price Nikki: Price (Sounds of agreement) Lydia: Just because were so used to having stuff so cheap and if there’s no 20% off on Pretty Little Thing I’ll look somewhere else for somewhere that’s got a code first Mhairi: yeah same Nikki: I google for a code if there isn’t one Liv: Me too 75

Jen: I also think quality plays a part but price will always be in the back of my mind like if the qualities REALLY bad then I’ll dya know what pay an extra couple of pounds to get something better quality but at the same time like I won’t go overboard and like splurge dya know what I mean Lydia: I think it all links but I think like quality and obviously like how it looks, and stuff is all important, but I think ultimately price is what it comes down too. If I was a millionaire I would shop anywhere cos I wouldn’t care about how much it was so therefor you could afford to buy more expensive, sustainable things but like as a student I can’t afford to like shop, I don’t know, wherever but that’s why we choose fast fashion brands. And I think like how easy it is to get hold of stuff like if I’m going out tomorrow and I haven’t got time to go to town I just think oh its fine I’ll order pretty little thing it’ll be here tomorrow, it’s like how accessible it is and how like easy it is for it to get here. ER: Erm would you then say sustainability plays an important factor in your purchasing decisions or not? All participants: No Lydia: I try to be in some areas Jen: I wish I was Nikki: I do too Lydia: Yeah I wish I was; I try to be in like make really really really small choices Nikki: Yeah maybe in like five years’ time Liv: I’d say in like accessories like a bag, I might not go for leather Jen: Yeah Liv: Like think of a sustainable bag, or like a water bottle for example like I wouldn’t go and buy a plastic water bottle now like I’d have a reusable water bottle Lydia: Yeah Liv: But clothing I don’t consider it Lydia: No Jen: I think we value like style and fashion to much Lydia and Liv: Yeah Jen: to make such big changes Lydia: We care about what we look like more than caring about the planet which is Liv: sad yeah Lydia: Bit shit when you put it like that Jenna: Yeah that it goes back to what I said about being selfish Liv: selfish yeah Lydia: yeah agree, god I need to buy more sustainable clothing ER: Erm then just the last section is, do you think social media influences your purchases? All participants: yeah Nikki: Yeah definitely ER: Do you think it’s like other people or brands or what is it about social media? Lydia: I think other people Jenna: Other people yeah Sophie: Yeah Lydia: I could quite… Liv: Influencers Lydia: I quite happily buy something because I’ve seen it on someone else Nikki: yeah Others: Yeah Nikki: I save items like what people wear on Instagram that I like in a folder (Sounds of agreement) Liv: I do the same Nikki: and when I online shop then I go on my folder and I see what I liked Jenna: I also think platforms like Instagram have made it so easy to just Nikki: yeah Jenna: To just like swipe up 76

Lydia: yeah swipe up links and stuff Nikki: Yeah Jen: Like you just know it’s not gonna take much time like whereas if I had to like physically search for it but like Liv: yeah it cuts out the browsing process Others: yeah Liv: Like you see it instantly and it’s like I want that Jenna: yeah Lydia: and also I think because you can like see it on someone, how they’ve styled it, what other things they wear with it like, you’re like oh yeah I’ll wear that so you just buy it because you can. (Sounds of agreement) ER: Erm do you consider a piece of clothing old if you’ve got a photo of it on social media Nikki, Liv, Lydia: YES Nikki: 100% Jen: I wouldn’t consider it old, I’d consider it like Nikki: Done with Lydia: Yeah Liv: A going out dress Mhairi: I wouldn’t wear it for a few times like Jenna: yeah Mhairi: or I’d wear it but not get a photo in it Jenna: Yeah Nikki: Yeah same Jenna: Oh yeah Lydia: Yeah Sophie: Lydia: yeah I would think like if I know I’m gonna get pictures for my Instagram that evening I’d think about If I had a picture on my Instagram and how long ago that was Liv: I’ve never thought about that Lydia: Really? Liv: no Nikki: Really? Liv: no, I think it’s cause I’m not very consistent at posting on social media and I think if I was like constantly putting pics of myself up then maybe, like a going out dress if I’ve already posted a picture of myself in it then maybe Jenna: I think, if it’s just like a staple outfit, if it’s like a statement piece like a dress Lydia: Yeah Jenna: Then I’d think twice about taking a picture in myself, if it’s like joggers or a jumper or a top or something I literally would not think twice I would wear it every single day of the week like I don’t care Mhairi: Yeah that’s fine Lydia: agree Jen: but I think if it’s like Lydia: Things like I bought a dress for my 21st two weekends ago and I wore it once and I put it straight on Depop the next day cos I knew I wouldn’t wear it again cause I’ve already worn it; it was my 21st dress, and to be honest I could wear it to my friends 21st but like I’ve already worn it so why would I wanna wear it again Nikki: When you could buy a new one yeah Lydia: so I put it on Depop the day after and I’m posting it this afternoon Sophie: atleast you’re being sustainable with it Lydia: well yeah this is true Nikki: Yeah exactly Lydia: I haven’t binned it but like Jen: This is why I think more brands have to do 77 more rental clothing

Lydia: Yeah Nikki: Oh yeah 100% Jenna: Like I saw something about H&M Lydia: But, But normal clothing cos there is fucking like Nikki: It’s all occasion wear!! Like it’s all high end designer stuff like we don’t want that Jenna: yeah exactly Lydia: yeah like rent a ball gown? Like I’m not wearing a ball gown to go out in Jenna: I think it’s called Rent the Runway Nikki: Yeah and I’ve looked on HireStreet and it’s all full on Jenna: I think more normal clothes Liv: Urban Outfitters tried something in America about renting but I dunno what it was Nikki: See urban outfitters have a subscription where you would have it for abit and then send it back and choose more stuff but it would be £60 a month Sophie: I would use that... (Sounds of disagreement) Sophie: But then there’s issues surrounding the rental thing like there is issues like the fact of like damage like Mhairi: It’s bad for the environment like CO2 Lydia: Like who else has worn it Nikki: Yeah true Sophie: diseases Jenna: Yeah it’s still bad for the planet Lydia: Yeah like posting and returning and stuff like that is in a big truck that’s like it’s carbon footprint Nikki: Yeah Lydia: Shipping and stuff Jenna: True Sophie: Yeah it’s just as bad as Nikki: I couldn’t do that because like when I like something I hate getting rid of it even if I’m not gonna wear it it’s dead weird Lydia: You’re the worst for it Jenna: Sentimental Nikki: Like I have bags and bags of clothes on top of my wardrobe of clothes that I will never wear but I’m not getting rid of them. ER: So you have an emotional attachment but you don’t wanna get rid of them? Nikki: Yeah Lydia: Yeah in a bin bag me and Jen were like bringing it to you and she’s like no Jen: Yeah like even if you would like let us borrow it and we give it back to you like it’s still getting another life, like it’s getting used Nikki: I know, I know its weird and there is so much Jen: Cos then if you give me something like that you’re not gonna wear then it stops me from purchasing something else Nikki: I know it’s bad, I only wear like 5% of my wardrobe ER: Why do you think that is? Nikki: I don’t know I literally, first of all I can’t even look in my wardrobes cause they’re that cluttered, like my wardrobes I literally haven’t got the energy now to just go through it Jenna: Its laziness Others: Yeah Nikki: Like there’s two of my wardrobes I’ve not looked this year in like literally Sophie: You’ve got two wardrobes? Liv: I have one wardrobe Nikki: I have more than that I just have so much clothes Lydia: Do you feel guilty talking about it? 78 Nikki: Yeah! Ofcourse I do

ER: But what do you think is missing from you saying you feel guilty but then you’re saying you literally cannot let go of these clothes, like why can you not stop buying but you feel guilty? Jen: There needs to be a solution Nikki: I just want to have every, all the new clothes all the time ER: What do you think that is down too? Nikki: I think it’s down to social media yeah, cause when I see something someone’s got it and I’ve got it I feel a sense of like happiness kind of like I’ve got it thank god Sophie: So deep Nikki: Isn’t that sad? Jen: Yeah really sad Nikki: Like if I haven’t got it I’m gonna get it like I haven’t got this thing and I’m not gonna wear it like I’ll wear it once then I’m never gonna see that again it’s bad Jenna: I think people need to just like think when they’re purchasing things instead of just like an impulse buy they need to think like, why am I buying this? Like what am I buying it for? Am I gonna wear it again? Nikki: There’s this thing, there’s this account on Instagram there’s a post like 4 things you need to ask yourself before buying something Lydia: Erm manrepleller Nikki: Yeah ER: So like you’ve seen that? Does that not make you wanan do that? Jenna: It makes me think, it makes you stop and think (Sounds of agreement) ER: So is there something between you’re thinking that and you actually doing it? Nikki: Yeah Others: Yeah Jen: and I think that’s the temptation, it’s like Lydia: It’s being greedy Nikki: Yeah that’s the word greedy Jen: Yeah Sophie: I just couldn’t have like an overloaded wardrobe like it would just make me feel stressed that I can’t see anything Nikki: It is! It’s so stressful, I need a weekend of just decluttering my life, cause I feel like that’s my main issue ER: If you got it all out and looked at it would you think? Nikki: I’d think oh my god I need to wear this like why am I not wearing this ER: So do you think people are not aware of how much Is in their wardrobes? Nikki: Yeah definitely Lydia: 100% Nikki: If you took say if I let’s say if I just took Lydia into my wardrobe and she will see something like oh this is really nice, I’d think oh my god that is really nice I need to wear that, like I think you need another pair of eyes kind of to make you realise what you’ve got Jen: I also think you forget what you have Nikki: yep and how you can like look at it in a different way Jen: Like you’ll look through your cupboards and be like oh my god I actually really like that, I forgot I had that and you’ll wanna wear it again Lydia: Yeah Jen: Or it’s like come back into trend or something Nikki: Yeah that’s another thing recycled fashion Sophie: True Jen: cause you might have something that follows that trend but you’re not aware of that so you just buy something else Nikki: Yeah, the amount of stuff in my wardrobe and my mum is like I had that when I was your age like I used to have those and I was like oh my god 79 why did you not keep that I could have had that and it would have been vintagER: So the last question is, what are your attitudes to rental and second hand fashion?

Jen: I think we’ve kind of spoke about that like how it needs to be more highstreet Nikki: More relevant I think (Sounds of agreement) Jen: Rather than just big brands Nikki: Ball gowns Jen: Yeah ball gowns and like brands that none of us would wear, it needs to be more focused towards like the younger generation. ER: But then do you not think if you’re having everyday clothes you would think I can just buy that for a fiver rather than paying this rental? Jen: I guess it depends on what the piece is Mhairi: If it’s good quality Lydia: I think it depends on your attitude towards being sustainable, if you don’t care you’re not gonna do it, so I think people need to have like an attitude change to realise that we need to be more sustainable, and then people will like take use of things like rental ER: Do you think it would be better if there was a rental targeted towards uni students in particular? Lydia: Yeah, but I think there would be a couple of things I would worry about like hygiene of things and like who’s worn it before me or like how clean it is or like but then I guess that’s the same as like buying second hand off Depop someone’s worn it and I still buy it and I was it before I wear it and then I don’t think anything of it so actually it probably wouldn’t effect it so much Nikki: I feel like if it was like a sister brand of a company so like if PLT did like their own Depop where like say you got your parcel with the bag and like a sticker in it if they included like a Depop sticker in your pass it to let it out to someone else or pass it back to them and they would put it on their sister brand where they can recycle it Jen: This is such a good idea Lydia: That is such a good idea Nikki; Maybe do like something with a brand Jen: Yeah instead of like returning it back Nikki: Cause then it’s like you’ve got all the headache off yourself like putting it all on Depop, it’s just the laziness concept behind it that’s the bit you need to take out, you take that out I feel like Lydia: That is such a good idea, like PLT do their own DEPOP you send off your old PLT items that you don’t wear anymore and they do it Nikki: and you get a fraction of that price back and they keep the rest Mhairi: I think it’s hard to find things on Depop like Others: Yeah it is Mhairi: like if it was all on like PLT like all on one account Nikki: Like so you can shop it like Jen: and its just a faff as well Lydia: and if you can shop it like an actual website like you can click on tops Nikki: Yeah Lydia: You can click on like a black top and you can filter through the things, I think I would actually use that Nikki: I would use that and it’s like a fraction of the price Jen: Yeah Nikki: Yeah cos you only wear it once Jen: if you go on the website and you think right I need this piece but like what do I need It for is it like a staple piece that I’m gonna wear all the time or is it just a dress I’m gonna wear once and do I mind going on to whatever you call in PLT Depop or whatever and just get a second hand cos I know I’m just gonna wear it once Nikki: PLTPOP! Why is this not a thing? Jen: It creates like that other option Others: Yeah ER: So that is the end of the focus group is everyone still okay to have their answer used in the report at a public display and so on? All participants: Yes 80 ER: Thankyou.

5. WARDROBE SURVEYS Cerys Wardrobe Survey 1: “Erm probably about 20%, it’s probably a lot more but let’s go with that” Jeans: 10 Pairs, unworn 3 Tops: 34, unworn 11 Dresses: 9 unworn 5 53 items, 19 unworn = 36% of wardrobe unworn ‘delusional level’ of 16%.

Wardrobe Survey 2: Sophie “Erm I’d say about 60%, cos I did a charity thing and gave it away because of the weather and uni I just wanna wear a hoody every day, not that I don’t like it” Jeans: 4 pairs unworn: 1 Tops: 42 unworn: 3 Dresses: 5 unworn 1 Wardrobe equals 51, unworn 5 = 10% Delusional level of -50% Emily wardrobe survey 3: “Probably like 45%” Jeans: 22 unworn: 17 Tops: 72 unworn: 48 Dresses: 15 unworn: 3 Wardrobe equals: 109, unworn = 68 = 74% Delusional level of 29%

Hannah wardrobe survey 4: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Erm probs like 60%â&#x20AC;? Jeans: 6 unworn: 3 Tops: 32 unworn: 13 Dresses: 7 unworn: 3 Wardrobe equals 45 = 100% unworn = 19 = 42% Delusional level: 18%

Average % Wardrobe Unworn: 43% Total Wardrobe Items= 258 Total Unworn Items= 111 111/258 = 0.43 0.43 x 100 = 43%

6. INSTAGRAM POLL Mean Average response rate: 189+170+266+102+288+68+193+151= 1427 1427/4 = 356.75

7. SCENARIO PL ANNING

Relevance - High Sustainability Circular Economy

Over-consumption

Sharing Economy Social Media Digital Connectivity

Immediacy- Low

Immediacy- High

Relevance - Low

WASTE: How wasteful is the world? Circular: Consumption is sustainable, waste and pollution have been designed out, no new resources are extracted and all products and materials remain in use allowing natural systems to regenerate. Linear: Consumption has accelerated, the economic system of take, make, waste is more apparent than ever, natural raw materials are scarce, and waste and pollution are at an all-time high. CONNECTIVNESS/TECHNOLOGY: How connected is the world? Connected: Technological innovations have revolutionised infrastructure and the economy, globalisation has expanded and the speed of communication has increased. Detached: Technological advancements have been abandoned and globalisation has gone into reverse. CIRCULAR/CONNECTED: 1. The world is healthy, wealthy and technology reliant. 2. Fashion is completely sustainable and carbon neutral. 3. The fabrics we wear are made from 100% reused or recycled materials…biodegradable materials… plastic microfiber free…smart tagged to provide supply chain transparency for consumers and post use procedures 4. We get our clothes from 3D body scanners…holographic downloads for social media…rental subscriptions…drone delivery services 5. When we have finished with our clothes they are reused, remanufactured or composted. 6. Consumers are sustainability experts and environmentally compassionate. CIRCULAR/DETATCHED: 1. 2. 3. rials. 4. 5. 6.

The world is fragmented, but local community bonds are stronger. Fashion is expensive if new or cheap if second hand, partly sustainable. The fabrics we wear are second hand, pre-owned, only rich can afford clothes made from raw mateWe get our clothes from second hand markets, community clothing libraries. When we have finished with our clothes we sell them or pass them on to family/friends. Consumers are environmentally and socially mindful.

LINEAR/DETACHED: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

The world is in conflict over limited resources, climate agreements have broken down. Fashion is a luxury, in scarce supply, expensive. The fabrics we wear are made from whatever local materials are available. We get our clothes from local shops, out of the rubbish, by stealing. When we have finished with clothes they are discarded Consumers are frustrated, isolated

LINEAR/CONNECTED: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

The world is dying, unable to regenerate nature resources, in a state of climate emergency. Fashion is rapidly produced, unsustainable, extremely polluting. The fabrics we wear are cheap, plastic full and toxic and non-biodegradable. We get our clothes from uber-fast fashion brands. When we have finished with our clothes they are discarded, sent to landfill, burned, Consumers are selfish, environmentally ignorant, over-consumptive, newness demanding.

8. Maslowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hierarchy of Needs

9. PROJECT INFO SHEET PROJECT INFORMATION SHEET Project Title: To what extent are Generation Z consumption habits influenced by fast fashion?

What is the project about?

This research project is looking at the impact fast fashion and social media is having on consumption behaviour of Generation Z consumers. It is being carried out as a weighted proportion of my BA (Hons) Degree in Fashion Marketing and Branding and aims to formulate insights for a following business report.

Who is running this project?

I, Emily Rhodes, a third year student at Nottingham Trent University will be conducting the research for this project. I have undergone an ethics assessment in order to carry out the research and the research is being supervised.

Why have I been chosen to take part?

This research is looking at a sample of Generation Z consumers, for the purpose of this research these consumers are 18-24 year olds. Participants have been chosen to take part in this research as their age falls within the chosen sample.

What do you want me to do?

Answer/complete all questions and tasks truthfully and to the best of your ability.

Do I have to take part?

No. Participation in the research is entirely optional and all participants have the right to withdraw at any time, even after the research has begun.

How will you protect my confidentiality and anonymity?

All answers given by participants will be kept 100% anonymous. For the purpose of the report participants will be referred to as ‘Participant 1’ ‘Participant 2’ and so on.

What will happen to the results?

The anonymous results of the research will be displayed in the written report that will be submitted as part of my degree. It will also appear in a public degree exhibition and in my profession portfolio both online and as a hard copy.

How can I find out more about this project and its results?

For more information on this project and its findings, please email N0728450@my.ntu.ac.uk

10. CONSENT FORMS