ENNIO ORSINI
advanced eyebrow dermopigmentation
For a little heart who does not have a name and a clear identity yet
Drafts review & editing: Valentina Ferraro Illustrations & photographic references: Ennio Orsini Layout and graphics: TRE BIT Comunicazione Printed in March 2015 ISBN: 978-88-940752-2-9
Š2015 Ennio Orsini DECO STUDIO Via Aragona 23, 67039 Sulmona (AQ) email: info@ennioorsini.com web: www.ennioorsini.com The reproduction of this work or parts of it by any means, unless expressly authorized by the author, is strictly forbidden.
Ennio Orsini
advanced eyebrow dermopigmentation
PREFACE
Nos novos tempos a arte e a ciência trabalham juntos idealizando um ser humano mais feliz e realizado, a percepção de si mesmo se torna menos estática, e a tão almejada beleza ganha seus difentes conceitos em novos traços e tonalidades, para tanto é necessário um conjunto de habilidades e ferramentas que somente artistas natos possuem, e como resultado, um trabalho unanimamente admirado e reconhecido. O desafio de viver da arte é um estigma que se quebra a cada dia, e os artistas de antes são as bem sucedidas estrelas de hoje que mundialmente agregam beleza no dia a dia de cada um de nós.
In modern times, art and science work together so that human beings can be more happy and satisfied, we perceive ourselves in a less static way and the concept of beauty that we all pursue acquires different features and nuances. That is why we need specific tools and skills that only talented artists have, and the result is unanimously appreciated and admired. When art becomes a job, artists face a daily challenge, and become the real stars of today’s world, since they add beauty to the daily life of each of us.
Claudio Inove
Coordenador cientìfico congresso “Estetica in Rio” Scientific coordinator of the congress “Estetica in Rio”
La “Ceja Ultrarrealística Masculina” de Ennio Orsini es un hito en la historia de la micropigmentación. La ejecución, el resultado y el método didáctico, son inmejorables. El cliente que se aplica esta técnica, se siente, por fin, completo. Tras la micropigmentación, su mirada adquiere una fuerza, viveza y alegría inédita, casi milagrosa. Tanto es así, que familiares y amigos se emocionan al verle. Ennio, no se ha conformado con ocupar de un modo tradicional un vacío físico, la no existencia de cejas, provocado por alopecia universal, sino que además lo ha dotado de un realismo revolucionario, provocando una ilusión óptica casi sobrenatural. Me siento orgulloso de Ennio. Si bien, es verdad que se convirtió en uno de los mejores profesores en micropigmentación, siendo parte mi equipo de formadores, Ennio Orsini ha demostrado al mundo que es un artista creativo, innovador y visionario, con luz propia. Admiro en Ennio, todas estas cualidades que también reconozco en mí y que nos convierten a ambos en soñadores, quijotes de la micropigmentación, capaces de luchar contra todos los elementos para alcanzar un propósito romántico e idealista de nuestra técnica y nuestra profesión. Me siento abrumado, sabiendo que Ennio me considera su mentor. Es muy reconfortante y satisfactorio sentir que un gran artista me considera su referente. Gracias, Ennio, por regalar a nuestra profesión esta obra maestra. Un modo innovador de abordar las aplicaciones reconstructivas y reparadoras de la micropigmentación, ejecutándolas con una belleza inconmensurable. Ultrarealistic men’s eyebrows by Ennio Orsini made history in the world of micropigmentation. His execution, his teaching method and the final result are the best on the market, there is nothing better than his book in the market. Customers who have been treated using this technique, finally feel complete. Micropigmentation gives their look strength, life and an unusual, almost miraculous gaiety. And their families and friends are thrilled by such a realistic result. However, Ennio has not just filled a gap, where the eyebrow was missing, due to alopecia universalis, but has created a revolutionary realism, an optical illusion that is almost supernatural. I am proud of Ennio. He has become one of the best masters in the field of micro pigmentation and I like to point out that he has been part of my team in the past. Ennio Orsini has shown the world that he is a creative artist, an innovator and a visionary, shining his own light. I admire Ennio, I recognize myself in him and all those qualities that make us two dreamers, the pioneers of micropigmentation, capable of fighting all the elements that prevent us from reaching a romantic ideal for our technique and profession. Knowing that Ennio sees me as his mentor is quite exciting, because he really is a great artist. Thanks Ennio, for having given to our world this masterpiece. A new way to approach eyebrow reconstructions with micropigmentation, a technique that allows us to achieve extraordinary results.
Mario Gisbert
Presidente de la Asociación Española de Micropigmentación President of Spanish Micropigmentation Association
“Dear Ennio, your book is a precious tool that helps us to keep up with the times. A text that illustrates evolution of permanent makeup over the years! We have known each other for quite a while now! I had the pleasure of living and sharing your professional growth. Today you are a true professional that, with many sacrifices, has achieved his goal: sharing his experiences and his knowledge with all the operators working in the sector. This book is precious because it discloses the development of more and more sophisticated techniques requested by those who undergo such treatments. And the “ultrarealistic” technique is your signature. But not just that. This text make us realize the importance of training and refreshing courses. These two aspects are crucial for me. One way to examine a topic in detail is to keep up with the innovations introduced by dermopigmentation techniques. Moreover, this involves pleasant sharing moments. What do I think about permanent makeup? Well, it is a time-consuming but pleasant activity, a passion born from professional makeup that gives me a smile and great satisfaction every day! Best wishes.”
Anna Maria F inelli
Micropigmentation Master/trainer
Usually, I do not really write about my colleagues. But this time is different. It is a moral duty. I am a good friend of Ennio and I am “carrier of one of his works of art ”, but I am also a professional who works for a competitor and who has a major role. Therefore, I could not say anything with this comment from a business point of view. But I will do it anyway. It is not jus about “creating” some hairs that will “remain” in the skin, he has invented a technique, he has implemented it perfectly, and, moreover, this technique can remain unchanged over time, since it has no competitors. Ennio Orsini is the one who invented eyebrow ultrarealistic tecnique, the others (including me) are just copying it, and he has disclosed it only after several years of testing. Once again, I bow down before this master. I advise all operators to work much harder on themselves, rather than criticizing the work of real professionals.
Cristiana Causo
Micropigmentation Master/trainer
Table of contents INTRODUCTION
9
The ancestor of ultrarealistic eyebrows
10
The history of ultrarealistic eyebrows
11
I. TECHNICAL EXECUTION
17
I.1 Conventions I.2 Hairs: universal rules for creating long-lasting, thin and defined hairs
18
I.3 The Eyebrow ridge Theory I.4 The ultrarealistic eyebrows light and shade Theory
25 28
I.5 Design and epidermal sketches
28
I.6 Basic structure BYA
34
I.7 The BCA variant
41
I.8 The BCA1 variant for men
46
I.9 Break the rules
56
II. “Step by Step” APPLICATIONS
59
III. “Before & after” EXAMPLES
103
Conclusions
132
Acknowledgments
133
Appendix. The conquest of Brazil
134
Bibliography
140
1
1
Biography
8
19
141
INTRODUCTION
W
hy writing again about a topic so debated? Because I think I have already established some important principles to work in this field, I tried to improve the existing rules and I have investigated some common intuitions. This is mainly because I needed to reset my mind, putting into this book everything I had learned over time. Only a free mind can fly high, mine had been filled with so much information that I had to keep into this precious book.
It is, of course, an advanced approach to dermopigmentation. I will give many concepts for granted and, therefore, if you have just started practicing, you should start with “Eyebrow dermopigmentation”, my first work, before reading this manual. Perhaps you will find more images than theory and this is because, if you have been practicing for a while, you are certainly already filled with too many notions. That said, I just have a question for you “Would you like to revolutionize the way you work? Do you want to change your certainties? Do you want to abandon your reference points and start a new journey? “.
INTRODUCTION
That book is the result of a study that has lasted for years, showing you a proven technique that has been tested by me so many times that I can finally say “It really works” and is now yours.
If your answer to all the three questions above is YES, then you are now ready to leave your family and friends for a few days. Make sure you have paid your dues. Turn off your phone. And now that your mind is free, you are finally ready to fly high.
9
The ancestor of ultrarealistic eyebrows
A
fig. 1: The origins
s in any industry, there is continuous progress also in the field of dermopigmentation. About four years ago, in my Eyebrow Dermopigmentation manual, I showed new structures for the creation of hairs and eyebrows, while today I am here to write about this new technique. Looking at my past works, I often feel frustrated, but of course this is a good sign. I remember pretty well my first hair-tattooed eyebrows, how could I forget? The author of this work (fig. 1) is the author of the book you have just purchased. Yes, this was my first work and it was quite a while ago.
10
I guess now you have just lost your trust in me, and maybe your respect too, but I could not start this book without showing you my zero point, the beginning of everything, the reason for my dissatisfaction which later led me to interrupt my career as a dermopigmentation specialist (fortunately, not for good). Basically, what you’re seeing is the real ancestor of ultrarealistic eyebrows.
People will not look forward to posterity, who never look backward to their ancestors. - Edmund Burke The history of ultrarealistic eyebrows
T
he first time I introduced the eyebrow ultrarealistic technique to the public was in Russia, in Moscow in 2012, during an international event.
LEGEND upper hairs
A1C
lower hairs
thin hairs
On that occasion I showed my technique for men’s eyebrows, already discussed in 2011, in the first edition of my book, Eyebrow Dermopigmentation (fig.2, fig.3).
INTRODUCTION
fig. 2: Epidermal sketches
It was a great experience and my technique was much appreciated.
11
fig. 3: Areas where finishing/stray hairs should be traced
12
Published on 12th December 2012 KOSMETIK EXPO. Conference for Permanent Make-Up. 12th February 2012, Moscow Permanent make-up of (men’s) eyebrows Masterclass held by Ennio Orsini, Italy
fig. 4: Watch the video of the event: http://youtu.be/Tkt6a2euM5c
video course (fig 6).
INTRODUCTION
T
he video of that event (fig. 4) is still available on the internet, on the official channel of the event and on my youtube channel at: http://youtu.be/Tkt6a2euM5c. After the success of Moscow, I had to do my first Italian presentation, precisely on 3rd June 2013, at the atelier of my friend Cristiana Causo (fig. 5). Before about thirty professional operators coming from all over Italy, I disclosed the essence of my research showing them a real learning protocol, the final rules to create what I had called Ultrarealistic Eyebrows. Then there was another collective workshop in Bari, which resulted in a
13
fig. 5: The presentation of 3rd June 2013
fig. 6: The events held on 3rd June 2013 and on 13th January 2013
I
n 2014, a huge event held in Brazil (see the appendix at the end of this book) marked the worldwide success of a technical revolution in the world of dermopigmentation, and I like to be seen as the pioneer of this technique. Today, and I am really proud of it, sin-
16
ce this method is used by many, many professionals. Browsing on the most popular social networks, you will see more and more treatments performed using the same logic, a logic that I will try to explain in the next pages.