Celebrating Sandwiches as Art in Copenhagen

By Lynda Balslev

Leave it to the Danes to elevate the open-face sandwich or smørrebrød to an art form. In a country where understatement and hygge reign, it makes sense that the unpretentious sandwich is a national icon on a par with The Little Mermaid and LEGO.

COPENHAGEN’S NYHAVN WATERFRONT AREA

© COPENHAGEN MEDIA CENTER/WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN

In recent years, the Copenhagen food scene has won international acclaim with the likes of Noma and a windfall of Michelin stars. Despite this heady achievement, the Danes remain content to keep things down-to-earth and simple. And there’s no better reflection of this balance than their smørrebrød tradition.

Smørrebrød, which translates as “butter and bread,” has a legacy stretching back to the Middle Ages as a Danish worker’s lunch. Over time, this practical staple worked its way into the family meal and onto the holiday table. Today, smørrebrød is ever-present in daily life as a fast-casual bite, a substantial lunch, or the starter to a celebratory meal.

SMØRREBRØD IS A POPULAR LUNCH CHOICE IN DENMARK

© COPENHAGEN MEDIA CENTER/THOMAS HØYRUP CHRISTENSEN

Presentations range from minimal to lavish. What they share is a balance of traditional and modern influences, while showcasing honest, fresh, and local ingredients artfully perched on sliced bread. Who says that Danish sensibilities can’t be expressed on a dinner plate?

The best place to ogle and sample smørrebrød is in the open bread shops and restaurants of Copenhagen. Luckily, the compact city centre is eminently walkable since you will want to work up an appetite to enjoy these iconic sandwiches.

THE 17TH-CENTURY RUNDETÅRN OBSERVATORY

©COPENHAGEN MEDIA CENTER/DANIEL RASMUSSEN

CITY HALL TO LATIN QUARTER

From City Hall Plaza (Rådhuspladsen), enter Strøget, one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe. Meander into the Latin Quarter, home to Copenhagen’s 500-year-old university and Gråbrødretorv, a cobblestone square lined with halftimbered houses and cafés. Here, you will find Aamanns 1921, serving some of the best smørrebrød in town, artfully arranged with traditional and inventive ingredients.

THE INTERIORS AT AAMANNS 1921

© COPENHAGEN MEDIA CENTER/NOEMIÉ METAIREAU

ROUND TOWER TO ROYAL GARDENS

Continue to the 17th-century Round Tower (Rundetårn) and oldest functioning observatory in Europe. Climb the tower stairs for a city view and then head to Schønnemanns, one of Copenhagen’s oldest restaurants. In the paneled dining room with linen-clothed tables, revel in the ambience of this old-world restaurant serving traditional smørrebrød, such as marinated herring and beef tartare with house-made “snaps,” a small glass of spirits, mostly aquavit, usually served well chilled with food.

AMALIENBORG TO NYHAVN

Stroll through the King’s Garden (Kongens Have) to Amalienborg, the Royal Palace and Queen’s residence. Follow the waterfront to Nyhavn, the colourful harbour lined with bars and restaurants. Snag an outdoor table at Kompasset, order from their rotating menu of inventive smørrebrød and local craft beer, and watch the passersby.

ONE OF KOMPASSET'S 10 KINDS OF SMØRREBRØD

© COPENHAGEN MEDIA CENTER/RASMUS FLINDT PEDERSEN

STRØGET TO CHRISTIANSBORG PALACE

Cross Kongens Nytorv, the landmark square, and step back onto Strøget. Stroll past flagship shops to the footbridge leading to Christiansborg Palace. Before crossing, step into the cozy cellar of Slotskælderen, a 100-year-old smørrebrød institution frequented by Danish politicians.

TIVOLI TO KØDBYEN

Return to Rådhuspladsen and head to Tivoli Gardens, the famous 17th-century amusement park. Pass through its cavernous food hall and choose from an array of modern open sandwiches, such as a teetering pile of fjord shrimp on rye bread at Hallernes Smørrebrød. Continue to trendy Kødbyen, the meatpacking district where butchers, baristas and bartenders rub shoulders. Order a meaty smørrebrød at Fleisch, a combined restaurant, bar and butchery in a hip industrial setting.