Laughter is Brightest Where Food is Best

The Irish prover rings true as the Emerald Isle undergoes a foodie revolution

By Lane Atteridge

With millennia of agrarian history under their belts, a new generation of Irish chefs are serving up historic flavours with modern ideas and can’t-miss food experiences. Discover for yourself why the Emerald Isle has become a rising culinary destination worthy of your attention.

Irish fare is often miscast as the culinary “plain Jane” of Europe. But over the past few years, Ireland has seen a food-focused renaissance. Meat and potatoes and hearty stews are making room for gourmet tapas, aperitifs, and sweet chili coconut stir-fries. And for one small town on the southern shore, this revolution of cuisine has been brewing for years.

The picturesque fishing town of Kinsale in County Cork is rich with history, charming cottages, and great food, and was recently named the “Top Foodie Town” by the Restaurants Association of Ireland (RAI). At the heart of the small town’s lively culinary scene is the Kinsale Good Food Circle (GFC). For over 40 years, the GFC has rallied restaurants to come together and up their culinary game.

© SEAN BREITHAUPT FOR DIAGEO

“We’ve created a place where people are coming to us for a food experience, not just coming to Ireland and eating along the way,” says Liam Edwards, owner of the Jim Edwards Restaurant and former RAI president.

Today, a new generation of chefs are breathing life into Kinsale’s dining scene. Its restaurants thrive off the abundant produce that Ireland’s rolling green hills are known for. “If it’s not local, it’s not on the menu,” he explains.

The country’s long history of agriculture and high-quality produce is attracting chefs from all over the world. Think international-fusion dishes ranging from Chinese to Indian, seasonal menus to showcase fresh produce and healthy vegetarian dishes.

“We let the main ingredients do the talking,” Edwards said. “We were known for pints of Guinness, leprechauns and good Irish music in the pubs, but we want people to be no longer surprised about how good our food is.”

There are endless reasons to visit Ireland, but the thrill of delving into its culture through cuisine is one of the best. Landmarks and historic sites can give you a great glimpse into its traditional roots, but there’s something about sitting down and sharing a meal that goes beyond sightseeing. Food is the main ingredient that connects us all, and that’s especially true here.

© FÁILTE IRELAND/DONALD MOLONEY PHOTOGRAPHY