7 minute read
Range x AmaWaterways
from Range - Volume 7
by Ensemble
La vie à Bordeaux
Historic French villages, lush vineyards and plenty of wine and cheese make for perfect pairings on this AmaWaterways river cruise.
By Stefanie Sosiak — Photos by Adam Monastero
It’s barely April, yet spring has arrived in Bordeaux. I’m admiring the French countryside on the elegant sundeck of AmaDolce as we sail what Camille Dernis, our cruise manager, describes as the “café au lait” waters of the Garonne River. There is a glass of fruity merlot at my side.
For the next seven days, AmaWaterways’ Taste of Bordeaux cruise ferries us through the Bordeaux region, navigating two tidal rivers and an estuary, pausing long enough for us to experience wine tastings from Grand Cru estates and small family-run vineyards. On board, we’re treated to locally inspired cuisine, including fresh baguettes from a nearby bakery and bowls of steaming bouillabaisse, paired with some of the finest vintages the region has to offer. We also embark on epic market pilgrimages and bike through peaceful villages with cobblestone streets dating back to medieval times en route to some of the region’s famed wineries.
No vineyard visit is the same. “The vines began growing two weeks early this year,” Nathalie Depoizier Escuredo tells our group as we hike through Château Boutinet, the winery she runs with her husband Jérôme in Villegouge, a short bus ride from our ship’s port in Libourne.
That growth is not necessarily a good thing, she explains, as an early start to the season carries the risk of frost, which damages the vines. To help reduce its own impact on climate change, Château Boutinet became certified organic in 2020, relying on nature rather than herbicides and pesticides. As we wander through the dewy grass, a fluffy Southdown lamb pops its head out of the property’s barn to get a look at us. During the fall and winter months, the resident flock grazes between the vines, keeping weeds at bay and helping fertilize the soil.
Château Boutinet isn’t the only environmentally conscious vineyard in the region — we learn that producers are increasingly adopting more sustainable methods of grape growing. Renowned Château de Ferrand, a Grand Cru Classé of Saint-Émilion since 2012, produced its first certified organic vintage in 2021. Purchased by Marcel Bich in 1978 (better known as the founder of the BIC company), the handsome château sits on a 100-acre estate that’s a winning combination of vineyards, forests and parks.
In the limestone building where the wine is produced, blended and stored, French oak barrels age predominantly merlot-based blends. We sample four vintages, along with a palate cleanser of sharp, dry cheese and cured ham, beginning with the youngest wine, a 2018 merlot and cabernet franc blend (silky smooth and expressive with fruity notes) and working our way through 2016, 2014 and finally 2008. My favorite is the 2014 vintage, which is high in tannins and has a fruity, aromatic finish. (We’re thrilled to discover that bottles are available to purchase, so we can relive the experience back on board AmaDolce, where passengers are free to bring their favorite wines from the day to enjoy while dining on the ship.)
But before returning to the ship, we visit the medieval village of Saint-Émilion, known for its historic monuments, including the monolithic church, dug out of a rocky hillside in the 12th century, and its wines. At the end of the tour, we wander into Les Macarons des Saint-Émilion, where the precursors to modern-day macarons were first baked by Ursuline nuns in 1620. It’s impossible to leave without a box of the simple delicacies, which are made with only three ingredients (almonds, sugar and egg whites) and baked on food-grade paper that you peel off, like a sticker.
On the third morning of our river adventure, we cruise down the Gironde estuary, stopping in the town of Blaye where a row of bikes awaits. Christiane, our guide, leads us down the winding streets of the 17th-century citadel. Built during the reign of Louis XIV to defend the city of Bordeaux against enemy attacks, it’s now home to a number of charming boutiques and bistros.
From there, we bike to the mostly flat vineyards just outside the city, stopping to admire a handful of idyllic châteaux. The return trip to the ship along a converted railbed is easy, and we make it back in time for the Printemps des Vins de Blaye, a local wine and food festival that just so happens to be taking place in the citadel during our stay.
The festival features more than a hundred producers from the area and the grounds of the citadel are dotted with tasting tents and gourmet markets. Some festivalgoers push trollies piled with cases of wine to their cars, while others savor freshly shucked oysters and spit-roasted pork. We wander from tent to tent, sipping from keepsake wineglasses filled with a local rosé.
That evening, we port in Bourg, a small town on the right bank of the Dordogne, and enjoy a walking tour through the village on our way to AmaWaterways’ own exclusive wine festival, held at Maison des Vins des Côtes de Bourg, overlooking the pretty town. Wine producers line up glasses for tastings and there is plenty of cheese and charcuterie. One of the most interesting wines is a 100-percent merlot cuvée from Le Clos du Mounat vinified and matured in clay jars. The jovial local band So French! livens the atmosphere with accordion music and, before long, half the room is on the dance floor (I even end up dancing with the ship’s captain).
Our journey ends where it began, in the city of Bordeaux, where we spend a day visiting Les Halles de Bacalan, an indoor market featuring local specialties, including crêpes, truffles and fried chicken. A plate of freshly shucked local oysters appears in the middle of our communal table — and we don’t hesitate. They are meaty and taste richly of the sea. A trip to Bordeaux’s wine museum, La Cité du Vin, across the street grounds our experience through an immersive exhibition of the region’s wines and beyond — there are even smelling stations where we learn to recognize the aromas of different wines, although at this point, I’m pretty good at identifying merlot.
On our final night aboard AmaDolce, I relax and revisit the adventures of the day, gazing out at the rolling movement of the river, which is mesmerizingly at eye level from where I sit at a white-cloth-covered table in the ship’s dining room. My server appears and deftly drains a bottle of merlot into my glass. I recall what Jérôme, the co-owner of Château Boutinet, said to us during a tasting in his vineyard: “Do you know what makes a good bottle of wine? An empty bottle.” After all the wonderful wines I’ve experienced in Bordeaux, I couldn’t agree more.
Savor the Ship
Three essential wining and dining experiences on AmaDolce
TUCK INTO A FRENCH FEAST
AmaWaterways is a member of Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, a prestigious international gastronomic society originally founded by Louis IX. In a showcase of this culinary distinction, the onboard chef prepares a one-night-only locally sourced dinner.
TAP THE EXPERTISE OF A WINEMAKER
An international wine producer leads lively (and complimentary) wine tastings on all Celebration of Wine River Cruises.
WATCH THE PROS PREPARE A MEAL
Reserve a spot at the Chef’s Table where you can watch the ship’s skilled culinary team prepare a seven-course dinner complete with local wine pairings.
