Time Out in Vietnam

There was no plan. Each day of this top-to-bottom tour of the country unfolded spontaneously, magically, with sudden bursts of beauty and joy.

Photos by Julia Nimke — Words by Sydney Loney

The Hà Giang Loop begins and ends in Quản Bạ, lazily uncoiling over 215 miles of canyons and mountain passes and leading adventurers — predominantly on motorbikes — into some of the most remote regions of northern Vietnam. It’s a road much like the country itself: With every curve and shift in direction, you might encounter something unexpected and unforgettable. An ancient, ornate temple emerging from the landscape.

Tidy rice fields spreading across flat stretches of countryside. Children pausing to play at an overlook on a steep hillside. “I like to capture spontaneous moments that touch or move me in some way,” says Berlin-based photographer Julia Nimke. She found plenty of those moments on her 21-day journey by bus, train and motorbike, beginning in Hanoi in the north and ending along the Mekong Delta in the south.

HA LONG BAY

There is no cell service in the remote areas of Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site comprising nearly 2,000 rugged limestone islands. Julia captured a friend diving from a fishing boat during a peaceful afternoon on the water. “The softness of the light, the depth of the colors and the quietness lasted all day.”

Initially, Julia only intended to spend two nights in Hội An — but lingered for four. “There was just so much life on the streets,” she says. “I was drawn by the vibrancy of the colorful lanterns, which are everywhere, and the bright yellow shops that are no taller than two stories, so nothing mars the skyline.” The ancient coastal trading port at the mouth of the Thu Bồn river is known for its cobblestone streets, its architecture — including the famous Japanese Covered Bridge, built in the 15th century — and its custom-made clothing (tailors take your measurements, you pick your fabric).

The food is also worth sticking around for, Julia says, particularly cao lầu, the region’s signature dish made with rice noodles boiled in water from a specific well in the town and topped with barbecued pork, lettuce, herbs and rice crackers.

No matter where you are in Vietnam, you’re likely to happen upon a market. Farmers peddle their produce from open stalls, stands and storefronts in towns and villages, from narrow wooden boats in floating river markets and even from the backs of bikes and scooters on the streets. “About 90 percent of the merchants in the market stalls were women, and they all seemed to know each other,” Julia says. “There was a strong sense of community everywhere I went.” Julia relied on homestays and the generous hospitality of local families throughout her journey.

At one homestay, her hosts’ daughter delivered a plate piled with fresh mango, dragon fruit, rambutan and longan to her as she relaxed in the family’s garden. “One of the things I liked best about Vietnam was how warm and welcoming the people are,” she says. “It just felt so honest and pure to be there.”