4 minute read
Port of Call - Juneau
from Range - Volume 7
by Ensemble
Step ashore for a day of discovery in the Alaskan capital, where close encounters with wildlife are as captivating as the region’s colorful past.
By Brett Walther
As you come into port at Juneau, sailing past mist-shrouded coastal rainforests and delicate, ribbon-like mountain waterfalls, there’s a further wonder in store: You’re docking right in the city’s downtown. The irony of Juneau — the only continental state capital not reachable by road — is how accessible it is for cruise-ship passengers. After disembarking, you’ll find an endless succession of buses shuttling explorers to the nearby Mendenhall Glacier, a 13-mile-long river of ice. It’s also mere steps to the Goldbelt Tram, which will whisk you 1,800 feet up the slopes of Mount Roberts for spectacular views over the city, with bald eagles soaring overhead. Carry on from the docks to discover this delightful former frontier town’s compact center, complete with turn-of-the-century storefronts on historic South Franklin Street.
FAST FACTS
Currency
United States Dollar
Language
English
Tipping
15%-20%
Temperature
Average daily highs range from 33°F/1°C (January) to 64°F/18°C (July).
HISTORY
1880
Guided by local Tlingit chief Kowee, prospectors Joe Juneau and Richard Harris strike gold panning a river in Alaska’s Silverbow Basin.
1881
A vote is held to name the settlement that’s sprung up at the base of that river. Joe Juneau successfully lobbies to have it named after himself — after allegedly buying voters drinks.
1944
The closure of the Alaska Juneau Gold Mining Company marks the end of the city’s gold rush, estimated to have been worth the equivalent of $7 billion today.
IF YOU’RE UP FOR A DAY TRIP…
Fly to Admiralty Island
A scenic 30-minute floatplane ride south of Juneau will take you to an island known to the native Tlingit as Kootznoowoo, or “Fortress of the bears.” With a brown-bear population 1,600 strong — one of the highest concentrations of the species on Earth — there’s no better place to see these powerful predators in action. Scale the observation tower at Pack Creek to spot them fishing for salmon.
MARK YOUR CALENDAR
Peak Whale Watching
Whale-watching opportunities abound between April and November, when the northern Inside Passage is home to around 600 humpback whales (who wisely prefer to winter in Hawai‘i). The most impressive spectacle, however, is reserved for July and August, when these massive mammals engage in a cooperative hunting behavior known as bubble-net feeding, casting “nets” of bubbles from their blowholes to corral fish swimming above. The payoff for patient whale-watchers comes when members of the pod burst from the depths — mouths wide open — to devour their encircled prey.
DID YOU KNOW?
As Alaskan cruises surge in popularity (the number of visitors was up 30 percent in 2023 over prepandemic levels), efforts are underway to curb overtourism. Beginning this cruise season, Juneau has imposed a daily limit of five large ships in port.
EAT THIS
King Crab
It turns out the “best legs in town” are also the most convenient for cruisers. Located right on the waterfront, Tracy’s King Crab Shack draws famously long lines for its three-pound buckets of king crab legs. It’s a monster-sized meal that’s meant to be shared — but all that melted butter could tempt you to make it a solo effort.
IF YOU WANT TO TIME-TRAVEL…
Think Outside the Museum
Although the Alaska State Museum is great for a glimpse of Juneau’s past, these immersive experiences bring the region’s rich history to life.
AJ Mine Gastineau Mill
Venture underground on a tour of what was once the world’s largest gold-producing mill, then try your hand at panning. (You get to keep whatever you find!)
Sentinel Island Lighthouse
A series of maritime disasters at the turn of the last century prompted the construction of several lighthouses along the Inside Passage, including this gem, which serves double duty as a whale-watching tower.
Sealaska Heritage Institute
Engaging speakers, awe-inspiring artwork and interactive exhibits (including the reconstruction of a traditional clan house) immerse you in Southeast Alaskan Native culture.