Envy Italy Magazine | Issue 4 | Autumn/Winter 2019

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Vol 01 Issue 04 | Autumn/W inter 2019

Complimentary Issue

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Interview with chef Andrea Mattei Envy Italy’s top 5 wine resorts Italy’s food and wine festivals

Bologna – City Focus The Iconic Amalfi Coast Road Trip Pietrasanta the artists town

Ceramicist Saura Vignoli Stylist Annette Joseph’s love of Italy Textile designer Margherita Pandolfini

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Soul Food with Massimo Bottura Skye McAlpine’s hidden Venice Truffle Hunting for Italy’s white gold

Super cool ski destinations Magic and mystery in Piedmont Exclusive properties for sale

Andrea Bocelli’s secret to happiness Super-car designer Horatio Pagani Fine Art photography by Michael David Adams

Soul Food with Massimo Bottura Skye McAlpine’s hidden Venice Truffle Hunting for Italy’s white gold

Super cool ski destinations Magic and mystery in Piedmont Exclusive properties for sale

Andrea Bocelli’s secret to happiness Super-car designer Horatio Pagani Fine Art photography by Michael David Adams

Soul Food with Massimo Bottura Skye McAlpine’s hidden Venice Truffle Hunting for Italy’s white gold

Super cool ski destinations Magic and mystery in Piedmont Exclusive properties for sale

Andrea Bocelli’s secret to happiness Super-car designer Horatio Pagani Fine Art photography by Michael David Adams

Winter

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SUMMER

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E AT

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LOVE

E AT

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LOVE

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Soul Food with Massimo Bottura Skye McAlpine’s hidden Venice Truffle Hunting for Italy’s white gold

Super cool ski destinations Magic and mystery in Piedmont Exclusive properties for sale

Andrea Bocelli’s secret to happiness Super-car designer Horatio Pagani Fine Art photography by Michael David Adams

Soul Food with Massimo Bottura Skye McAlpine’s hidden Venice Truffle Hunting for Italy’s white gold

Super cool ski destinations Magic and mystery in Piedmont Exclusive properties for sale

Andrea Bocelli’s secret to happiness Super-car designer Horatio Pagani Fine Art photography by Michael David Adams

Soul Food with Massimo Bottura Skye McAlpine’s hidden Venice Truffle Hunting for Italy’s white gold

Super cool ski destinations Magic and mystery in Piedmont Exclusive properties for sale

Andrea Bocelli’s secret to happiness Super-car designer Horatio Pagani Fine Art photography by Michael David Adams

Spa

AUTUMN

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Leisure

envy italy

Lifestyle

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envy italy

Lifestyle

Luxury

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Travel

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Lifestyle

E AT

S TAY

LOVE

E AT

S TAY

LOVE

E AT

S TAY

LOVE

Soul Food with Massimo Bottura Skye McAlpine’s hidden Venice Truffle Hunting for Italy’s white gold

Super cool ski destinations Magic and mystery in Piedmont Exclusive properties for sale

Andrea Bocelli’s secret to happiness Super-car designer Horatio Pagani Fine Art photography by Michael David Adams

Soul Food with Massimo Bottura Skye McAlpine’s hidden Venice Truffle Hunting for Italy’s white gold

Super cool ski destinations Magic and mystery in Piedmont Exclusive properties for sale

Andrea Bocelli’s secret to happiness Super-car designer Horatio Pagani Fine Art photography by Michael David Adams

Soul Food with Massimo Bottura Skye McAlpine’s hidden Venice Truffle Hunting for Italy’s white gold

Super cool ski destinations Magic and mystery in Piedmont Exclusive properties for sale

Andrea Bocelli’s secret to happiness Super-car designer Horatio Pagani Fine Art photography by Michael David Adams

Property

Weddings

Gourmet

Welcome to ENVY ITALY Welcome to Envy Italy’s Autumn/Winter Issue which is our gourmet edition, featuring some of Italy’s finest food and wine producers, cooking schools and wine resorts.

In this issue, Penny Alexander visits Bologna, Michelin -starred Chef Andrea Mattei talks about his beloved Versilia and we visit the stunning town of Pietrasanta.

International stylist Annette Joseph discusses styling tips and the workshops she holds in her Tuscan fortress and Rosie takes a road trip on the amazing Amalfi Coast.

Also in this issue there is a whole range of artisans including world-renowned ceramicist Saura Vignoli, textile designer Margherita Pandolfini and terracotta sculptor Marcello Aversa.

Our property pages celebrate the beauty of Siena and its stunning countryside, we share our top five wine resorts in Italy and visit the luxurious, boutique hotel Locanda al Colle.

If you are in Italy this autumn do check out our food festival guide and our ‘Italian Experiences’ section, where you will find some great ideas for unique experiences during your trip.

We’ve had an amazing first year sharing with you our very personal love of Italy and have exciting plans for 2020, so do sign up to our newsletter at www.envyitaly.com for updates.

Sharon & Rosie

Editorial Team

Contributors

Editor – Rosie Meleady With over 25 years experience in magazine publishing (International Women In Publishing Award 1996), Reuters trained editor Rosie also brings her expertise as a destination wedding specialist to Envy Italy.

Adrienne Baumann Adrienne Baumann is a cultural communicator focused on food, wine and hospitality experiences. Based near Milan, but originating from northern California, Adrienne has worked with many inspiring Italian brands within the luxury, leisure and lifestyle sectors.

She actively champions artisan producers at the heart of “Made in Italy”.

Editor – Sharon Finnigan-Kilby An experienced editor, Sharon has produced over 100 luxury lifestyle magazines for clients worldwide. Based in Tuscany, her specialist areas are property and interior design.

Penny Alexander British writer and multi-award winning blogger Penny Alexander has written inspiring travel stories and informative blogs for international publications, hi-profile brands and agencies. Her upbeat city guides and down to earth travel journals lead readers around the world discovering the very best places to stay and explore.

Sales – Annamarie Kostura

Gary Kilby Gary is an experienced outdoor pursuits expert, having managed cycling and walking tours in Italy for several years. He now reports on exclusive golf and leisure breaks.

Photographer – Ronan Skelly

Cover photo Borgo Argiano CONTACT US For lots more features about Italy visit us online: www.envyitaly.com For any enquiries please email: admin@envyitaly.com Instagram: EnvyItaly

Envy Italy Magazine is a trading title of Envy Publishing Ltd. A registered limited company in the Republic of Ireland. It is a quarterly print magazine distributed internationally to selected 5 star venues, private airport lounges, members clubs, private medical waiting rooms and luxury events.

Envy Italy is fully protected by copyright and nothing may be reprinted wholly or in part without permission.

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LA DOGANA WEDDING VENUE An Italian estate with lake view in Tuscany, delicious catering, 20 apartments that may accomodate up to 70 guests and many different areas for welcome nights, ceremony and reception.

For more information go to www.agriturismodogana.it or write directly to weddings@agriturismodogana.it

in this issue ...

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Flavours of Versilia

An Italian Love Affair

City Focus: Bologna

Interview with Michelin-starred chef Andrea Mattei of Bistrot restaurant at Forte dei Marmi

Sharon Kilby meets renowned stylist and lifestyle expert Annette Joseph

Penny Alexander uncovers the secrets inside and outside the historic city walls of Bologna

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EAT 44. Blessed are the Cheesemakers – Adrienne Baumann meets artisan cheesemaker Chiara Onida and her 75 kids 47. A Feast of Food and Wine – Italy’s fabulous autumn food and wine festivals 50. Gourmet Cooking – Italy’s new gastronomic hospitality 60. A New Breed of Winemaker – Monterosola, one of Italy’s most innovative and inspirational modern vineyards STAY 30. Set in Stone – Sharon Kilby visits the artistic town of Pietrasanta, Versilia 55. Where Coast Meets Mountain – Locanda al Colle is everything you could dream of in a Tuscan country house 75. Properties for Sale in Siena

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Top 5 Boutique Wine Resorts

Amalfi Coast Road Trip

Envy Italy’s top 5 wine resorts – where food and drink are the essential ingredients

Rosie Meleady braves the endurance test of crazy weekend Italian drivers and amazing views on the Amalfi Coast

LOVE 24. All Fired Up – World renowned ceramicist Saura Vignoli 26. Italian Experiences – Fantastic unique experiences in Italy 36. Sacred Clay – Terracotta sculptor Marcello Aversa 68. The Greenhouse Effect – Textile designer Margherita Pandolfini

Vol 01 Issue 04 | Autumn/Winter 2019 Complimentary Issue

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Eat · Stay · Love Envy Italy invites you to spread your wings and broaden your horizons this autumn and winter. Meet inspiring artisans, creative chefs and young designers. Discover boutique boltholes, unique exhibitions and award-winning vineyards and explore Italy’s most exceptional VIP destinations, from coast to coast

Made in Sicily “Made in Sicily” offers a sumptuous collection of shoes, jewellery and clothing. From rich red velvet heels crafted by hand to its bold and beautiful Sicilian prints, “Made in Sicily”s gorgeous pieces celebrate Sicilian culture and art. We particularly love the use of iconic emblems and embellishments found on their striking handbags and shoes. www.madeinsicilyshop.it

Ruby Reds Nothing beats a Barolo when it comes to intense flavours and the Barolo DOCG Riserva Cannubi 1752 by Damilano has robustness by the barrel load.

A rich garnet in colour with intense notes of violet, cherry, plum, leather and tobacco, this is a grown-up Barolo befitting of an autumn feast. www.cantinedamilano.it

Mountain flavours Enjoy a dining experience like no other in the Dolomite mountains. Set in a striking contemporary art space, AlpiNN is Chef Norbert Nierderkofler’s breathtaking new restaurant. With a serious wow factor AlpiNN’s interiors were designed by Martino Gamper and its fresh seasonal menus champion Norbert’s ‘Cook the Mountain’ philosophy. www.alpinn.it

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Autumn Indulgence GLASS CHRISTMAS

Brunello Cucinelli, which has long been praised for its worthy working ethos and exceptional cashmere clothing, now also offers a home and studio collection.

Add a little Cucinelli comfort to your home with these ultra-soft blankets, throws and cushions each made from the finest cashmere and wool.

Bring the magic of Venice into your home this Christmas with amazing mouth-blown Murano Glass Millefiori Mosaic ornaments on your Christmas tree. Inspired by the opulence and richness of the ancient Venetian mosaics created centuries ago, these meticulously handcrafted ornaments will become your family’s unique keepsakes for years to come. Each come with a certificate of authenticity.

www.brunellocucinelli.com

www.glassofvenice.com

Italian Icons Sparkling Imagination Artist Sara Shakeel’s love for crystals and transforming photos into beautiful sparkling art has gained her nearly one million followers on Instagram and major commissions. We love the cathedral in Milan but imagining it dusted in sparkles this Chirstmas season makes it even more gorgeous!

Florence is the home of exceptional leatherwork and one of its most celebrated homegrown brands is The Bridge. Makers of meticulously crafted bags and luggage, The Bridge embraces classic designs enhanced with contemporary touches. We love the shade of this handbag, which is is a perfect example of the brand’s modern spirit.

www.sarashakeel.com

www.thebridge.it

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Winter Wonderland Soak up the winter sun on the terrace at Hotel Bellevue in the Aosta Valley. A foodie nirvana, Hotel Bellevue has numerous restaurants, brasseries, bars and even its very own fromagerie. We recommend enjoying lunch on the stunning terrace overlooking the immense Meadow of Sant’Orso with views towards the Gran Paradiso Glacier. www.hotelbellevue.it

Contemporary Cuisine A contemporary brand located in the heart of the Chianti, Vitique offers five-star cuisine in a chic and modern dining environment. Vitique is part of the Santa Margherita Winery where guests can enjoy tours of the cellar alongside exceptional food and wine. For lunch the bistrot offers delicious seasonal dishes and in the evening the restaurant provides a beautiful backdrop for a more refined experience. www.vitique.it

PINOCCHIO MEMORIES The Bartolucci collection creates Pinocchio collectables, gift items, furnishing accessories and toys, all strictly “Made in Italy”. Their wooden music boxes are a beautiful unique gift item for a nursery that would be treasured forever. www.bartolucci.com

Truffle Heaven Enlist the skills of a professional truffle hunter this season and unearth your very own epicurean delicacies. Savini Truffles in Tuscany is one of the nation’s most celebrated truffle brands and even has its own truffle museum, restaurants and boutiques.

Indulge this autumn with a little of their truffle butter stirred into mashed potato, the ultimate comfort food. www.savinitartufi.it

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Come stay with us!

Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni n. 1 Residenza d’Epoca | www.tornabuoni1.com | Tel +39 055 2658161 | info@tornabuoni1.com

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Flavours of Versilia Sharon Kilby catches up with Michelin-starred Chef Andrea Mattei who recently joined the famous Bistrot restaurant at Forte dei Marmi – the beachfront town where film stars and moguls hang out in their droves

I have known Chef Andrea Mattei for a few years and have been lucky enough to experience his exquisite cuisine many times when he was Executive Chef at Meo Modo Restaurant at Borgo Santo Pietro, near Siena. Catching up with him back on home turf in his beloved Versilia was an inspiring experience where I happily discovered that Andrea is well and truly back in his element living and working near al mare.

One of Italy’s finest young chefs, Andrea was awarded his Michelin star at 30 years old and now at 39 he is venturing into yet another level of exceptional cuisine at Bistrot.

One of Tuscany’s most well-established gourmet destinations, Bistrot exudes well-heeled elegance and also has an impressive heritage. First opening its doors in 1990, Bistrot lies within a vibrant collection of award-winning eateries owned and managed by the Vaiani family, one of the region’s most inspiring gourmet enterprises. Bistrot’s atmosphere is one of relaxed sophistication where its beautiful interiors are refined yet inviting. Beautiful sculptures rub shoulders with original art, and sumptuous furnishings sit side by side with gorgeous flower arrangements. But

make no mistake here, the true works of art are created in the kitchen by Andrea and his team.

Andrea told me a little more about the Vaiani family and his cooking culture at Bistrot. “The owners are famous in Versilia and have, over time, successfully created five restaurants: Bistrot, The Fratellini’s, Osteria del Mare, Pesce Baracca and Pesce Terrazza. Each with a different character and style of cuisine but each sharing a philosophy for celebrating fresh local ingredients. The family also own a fattoria – the estate Podere di Piero at San Quirico di Moriano near Lucca – where our vegetables, fruit and herbs are grown. The 20,000 sq. m country estate is only half an hour away from the restaurant. Each day we adapt our menus according to what ingredients are at their very best.

For example, the farm provides zucchini, peas, aubergines, herbs, plums and strawberries. Our olive oil is also from the farm. We supplement the fresh farm ingredients with wild herbs which accompany the most amazing fresh fish and locally reared meats.”

Andrea’s infectious enthusiasm for local, seasonal ingredients is found throughout Bistrot’s menu which brings together classic and contemporary dishes with grace and

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Chef Andrea Mattei at Bistrot in Forte dei Marmi

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Fresh seafood is a seasonal speciality at Bistrot

a touch of wit. The tasting menus immediately catch the eye with their somewhat humorous titles such as ‘Tempora-rily’ and ‘Deep-ly’, both of which champion fresh ingredients and are prepared for the whole table to enjoy. Modern interpretations offer a fresh take on classic dishes; however, true originals also feature on Bistrot’s menu which pay homage to its loyal, local clientele.

Andrea added, “The wine list here at Bistrot is famous for its depth and breadth and the 80 sq. m cellar houses over 1,400 bottles of wine that include some of the most prestigious labels from both Italy and the rest of the world. Equally importantly, we also have smaller vineyards and local wineries featuring within our wine list; it is important to support our region and its smaller and younger producers. The connection between food and wine is seamless and we host private dinners in the cellar which has views into a stone cave encased in glass where our French Champagnes are stored. It’s unique.”

Andrea appears to be completely at ease in his role at Bistrot where he works alongside Resident Chef Simone Di Maio and Maître d’ Andrea Salvatori, and there seems to also be a clear thread running through Andrea’s work: an authentic celebration of natural elements: fire, water, earth and air. When brought to the kitchen at Bistrot each ingredient is treated

with respect and intuition, where both traditional and avant-garde cooking techniques then transform and combine these into exceptional seasonal dishes.

The menu is simple yet vibrant. Start with trying the ‘The Egg and the Estate, Vegetables and Hay’ which embodies Andrea’s fresh food philosophy. Follow this with a classic pasta dish such as ‘Homemade Taglierini with Baby Clams, White Wine and Parsley’. The main course menu is mouth-watering, and the star of the show has to be the ‘Suckling Pig from Apuan Alps served with Zucchini and Elderflower’ cooked in the wood oven. If you are intrigued by the wood oven menu, then sample the flavours of the sea with the ‘Spiny Lobster served with Green Beans and Lemon’. To finish it would be rude not to go for the signature dessert dedicated to Piero, head of the Vaiani family, entitled ‘From Lucca to Forte dei Marmi – The Buccellato’.

My time at Bistrot with Andrea was enlightening. I dipped my toe into the glamorous world of Forte dei Marmi and came out unscathed and positively reassured that beneath the glitz and the gloss you can also find authentic and exceptional dining experiences. www.bistrotforte.it

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An Italian Love Affair From coast to countryside, Italy casts its seductive spell over all who visit. To those who can’t escape its magnetism it often becomes their long-term home from home. Sharon Kilby meets one such woman, renowned stylist and lifestyle expert Annette Joseph

One woman who fell hook, line and sinker for Italy’s unique lifestyle is American photo-stylist Annette Joseph, who not only chose to spend six months of the year here, but also took the courageous, if somewhat daunting, step of purchasing and renovating an 11th-century fortress.

Annette’s passion for Italian life is rooted in her childhood when she would often travel to Europe to visit family in Hungary. Here she would cook great feasts with her grandmother and learnt the art of entertaining family and friends.

Her family vacations also ventured to Italy, exploring the Liguria region, and a heartfelt connection to Italy naturally developed over the years. As an adult, Annette developed her affair with Italy returning for as long as possible every year. Eventually she was able to spend six months of the year on Italian soil.

A celebrated stylist back in the United States, Annette’s eye for detail can be seen in all aspects of her life and none more so than in La Fortezza, the fortress she has restored in the north of Tuscany. As an expert on entertaining, cooking and styling, Annette is a regular guest on The Today Show, and her recipes and party ideas have featured in Better Homes and

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Annette’s quirky collection of props and tableware have been collected from antique markets and fairs in Italy

Gardens, The Huffington Post and Epicurious magazine, among others.

Not only are her services in demand by her commercial clients, she also shares her secrets through her books and exclusive workshops in Italy and beyond.

“I see beauty in many everyday things, from simple objects like jars and metal buckets to empty picture frames and vintage linens. I love creating a beautifully laid-out table or a seasonal display of food. I have worked with numerous magazines, setting the scene for photoshoots and am delighted to share my skills with others. La Fortezza is the best setting for styling workshops; it has so much atmosphere and its original architectural features make wonderful backdrops.”

Originally, Annette set up an Italian home 12 years ago on the Riviera where she was inspired to write her book Cocktail Italiano which beautiful-

ly captures the ritual of aperitivo, an integral part of Italian lifestyle. Cocktail Italiano is an authentic guide to la dolce vita of Italy. The book covers 12 major cities along the Italian Riviera (including San Remo, Genoa, Portofino and Santa Margarita), each with its own cocktail recipe.

After more than a decade on the coast, Annette and her husband Frank, who is a surgeon, started to look for a country house where they could host gatherings and events. La Fortezza was the very first house they viewed but it felt too enormous a project for them. After four more years of house-hunting they were drawn back to La Fortezza and the rest as they say is 11th-century history.

“La Fortezza chose us, rather than us choosing it. It simply called out to us to love it and bring life to it. The restoration took three years, but we had a fantastic geometra and a great team of builders; it was a really positive

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experience. Finishing and furnishing the house was the best part.

I love visiting flea markets and antique fairs in the area, especially the Parma antiques fair and I have picked up some wonderful bargains and interesting antiques. Original artworks, decorative vases, old mirrors can all be found at good prices if you are not afraid of a little rummaging. La Fortezza is simply but elegantly furnished, the perfect venue for events, workshops and retreats. We have a huge studio space which we created from an old stone barn and this is where our guests gather for workshops.

“I’ve made some great friends and connections in the area,

“I see beauty in many everyday things, from simple objects like jars and metal buckets to empty picture frames and vintage linens, I love creating a beautifully laid out table or a seasonal display of food.”

particularly with artisans, food producers, chefs and winemakers.

These have all helped us build our knowledge of wine and olive oil production, and our workshops include visits to local farms and vineyards. One of our students’ favourite activities is market shopping where we buy fresh ingredients and props to use in our photoshoots.”

Courses, workshops and retreats at La Fortezza are linked to the seasons and run from May to October each year. Guests are encouraged to embrace creativity and find their own comfortable style of working. This autumn, events include a lifestyle photography course with world-famous photographer William Abranowicz and a harvest-time slow food workshop, both of which embrace the lifestyle at La Fortezza.

As if running workshops, styling and producing projects for commercial clients wasn’t enough, Annette has just signed another book deal which celebrates her love for Italy. The book ‘Italy Is My Boyfriend’ details her lifelong affair with a country that she now calls home, at least for a large part of the year.

“I’m so excited about the new book; it really does express why I love Italy so much. Its beauty, light, nature, food, people and culture and of course its quirks and foibles. I’ve also started my next writing project, ‘La Fortezza’s Cookbook’. This really is a magical experience for me, as it brings together all my passions in one place: Italian life, food, cooking, styling and photography.”

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Workshops at La Fortezza include cooking lessons and food styling

Simple table settings are given Annette’s personal style with fresh flowers and local linens

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Bountiful Bologna Travel writer Penny Alexander uncovers the secrets inside and outside the historic city walls of Bologna

Known with affection locally as Bo, Bologna is a beautifully compact city that you can pretty much just turn up to and potter around – no need for public transport or concrete plans. It’s a curiously magical mix of historic architecture, hidden secrets and the buzz of a modern student city.

I managed to sneak a trip to Bologna, just before Christmas. Here the regular antiques market ‘Antiquario Città di Bologna’ is held on the second Saturday and Sunday of each month and takes place in Piazza Santo Stefano in front of St Stephen’s Basilica.

What I love about Bologna is that it has jaw-dropping architecture, medieval towers, cobbled squares with fountains and churches, and rows and rows of porticoed streets. This setting is inspirational, but it is also bursting with great shops, markets, cafes, bars and restaurants.

Best of all, it’s very compact and walkable, and not overcrowded with tourists.

Take time out to explore the city but be prepared for a few ups and downs along the way – this is a city of towers after all.

Inside the City Two Towers At 97.2 metres, the Torre degli Asinelli is the tallest leaning medieval tower in the world. Built between 1109 and 1119 it is one of 20 towers that have survived in Bologna. With its little sister, the Garisenda, the Two Towers have come to symbolise Bologna. Despite the noticeable lean, you can climb the 498 stairs to the top to take in the views.

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Architecture Head to Museo della Storia di Bologna if you want to understand more about the history behind Bologna’s mind-boggling architecture. The main square Piazza Maggiore hosts several impressive buildings as well as the famous Poseidon Fountain; it’s also a hub for street artists and entertainers.

Shopping Switching between sightseeing, eating and shopping in Bologna is effortless. Spellbinding medieval architecture, covered walkways, porticoes and modern shops intermingle and beautiful squares host bric-a-brac, vintage and Christmas markets throughout December.

Secret window On Via Piella, in the area known as Little Venice, there is a small window in a graffiti-covered wall (sometimes closed, but there’s a hinged door you can open). Take a peek into the well-hidden Canale delle Moline.

The old Jewish Ghetto The 16th-century Jewish Ghetto is a maze of alleys, covered bridges and small windows which tells the story of a whole community forced to live in a specific area of the town by order of the Papal State.

San Luca Walk through a world record breaking 4 km of porticoes, made up of 600 arches, to Santuario di San Luca, or if your legs can’t make it, take the San Luca Express toy train. It’s a fine way to appreciate Bologna’s architecture and the pretty views, plus the top class pizzeria Vito A San Luca awaits you on arrival.

Portico di San Luca

“ What I love about Bologna is that it has jaw dropping architecture, medieval towers, cobbled squares with fountains and churches, rows and rows of porticoed streets.”

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“ Switching between sightseeing, eating and shopping in Bologna is effortless, spellbinding medieval architecture, covered walkways, porticoes and modern shops intermingle.”

Biking in Bo Reclaim the streets as part of a Bologna bike hire group tour, bells ringing, horns honking, stopping at osterias you would never find without a local for crostini and vino. Bike in Bo’s gorgeous Honululu bikes are sturdy with big wheels to cope with cobbles and can also be hired by the day and delivered to your hotel.

Eat Bologna Osteria De’ Poeti is a traditional eatery frequented by Hollywood movie stars. It used to be a wine cellar; the barrels built into the walls may be empty now, but atmospheric and underground Poeti sustains its reputation as a great place to eat, drink wine and celebrate.

This is the place to sample Bologna’s traditional dishes: tortellini, tagliatelle alla Bolognese and mortadella.

If you’re interested in discovering more of Bologna’s culinary side, Taste Bologna is a recommended tour company that takes small groups (max. eight people) to intimate viewings and tastings from the city’s finest pizza and pasta makers.

Rooftop drinks People come from all over to have a drink on Hotel Touring’s roof terrace and enjoy the incredible views over the city. This family-run hotel offers a really friendly welcome and the roof terrace is open to guests and non-guests. The views, through the city’s ancient cathedrals and medieval towers, especially with the church bells ringing, feel magical.

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Outside the City Once you’ve had your fill of Bologna’s dizzying architecture, head out to meet the makers behind the incredible food scene, or get your supercar fix.

Meet the makers Beyond Bologna, you can tour factories producing Parmigiano-Reggiano, balsamic and prosciutto. Italian Days offers a highly recommended food tour that starts with fizzy wine and cheese at 8 a.m. to celebrate the birth of a new batch of Parmigiano-Reggiano, visits a balsamic and prosciutto producer and ends with a traditional lunch in the country.

Acetaia Villa San Donnino, near Spilamberto, makes incredible balsamic vinegar. I loved the sense of legacy here, as the villa continues the tradition of balsamic making passed down over three generations. It’s open daily but advance booking is recommended. You can also book indirectly for a visit to many Parmigiano-Reggiano dairies and buy delicious produce direct from the maker afterwards.

Motor Valley Drive along the Via Emilia route and discover Motor Valley – factories and museums dedicated to engines such as Ferrari (Maranello), Maserati (Modena), Lamborghini (Sant’Agata Bolognese), Ducati (Bologna) and others.

Everlasting Beauty Bologna is forever in my heart: an unspoilt medieval city with kilometres of porticoes, frescoes and gravity defying towers; the foodie capital of Italy and close to some of the world’s top supercar factories and museums. There really is something for everyone here in the heart of Italy.

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All Fired Up World-renowned ceramicist Saura Vignoli talks with Rosie Meleady about what makes Bottega Vignoli ceramics unique

Faenza has been home to ceramic artists since the late Middle Ages.

However, in the 16th-century, Faenza began to distinguish itself from other ceramic production regions by defining its own unique iridescent style. The process starts in the ‘calanchi’ (badlands) where clay is dug up in lumps, then left to be purified by the rain and frost. What is left is a solid elastic mass free of stones and silt which in the hands of a skilled potter is turned into vases, bowls, sculptures. Baked at 960°C, the clay then transforms into porous terracotta, its light red colour due to the presence of iron oxide. The pieces are then given a glass-based coating, leaving a white surface ready for decoration. After decoration the items are kilned at a temperature of 920°C. This unique style of production, of glazed earthenware pottery ‘majolica ware’, is renowned worldwide by the name of of the area ‘Faenza’.

Sisters Ivana and Saura Vignoli attended the Institute of Art for Ceramics G. Ballardini di Faenza and then opened their own ceramics laboratory Bottega Vignoli in Faenza in 1976. Over the decades their beautiful ceramics have received international craftsman awards and recognition throughout the world, with their pieces on sale through designer stores and galleries such as Bergdorf Goodman in New York, Biordi in San Francisco, Manuka Contemporary Art Space in Australia and in London’s Made in Britaly Gallery.

Andrea Miniati (collaborator), Saura and Ivana Vignoli

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“Our decorative research always draws on the Mediterranean,” explains Saura. “All the influences come from the Middle East, the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire. We are in constant research of all the styles that make up Renaissance decoration.”

“Our production focuses above all on decoration – from the small object to the piece that also needs 40 hours of decoration.”

“We use a blast-fire reduction technique in our kilns to obtain shimmering colours and iridescent reflections, so that every piece has unique and often inimitable features. The decorative themes are historical or completely original reinterpretations, in line with the spirit of research that distinguishes this territory.”

While the Vignoli sisters take on interns to train and pass on the tradition of high craftsmanship that is disappearing, there is no sign of their creativity ending.

“There is no limit to the possibilities of ceramics – from the creative techniques of decoration to the shapes of the material – there are still and as always exciting directions to go.”

For more information visit: www.ceramichevignoli.com

Spirale bizantina by Saura Vignoli

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Italian Experiences If you want to try something different and unique during your visit to Italy, then here are some of Envy Italy’s recommendations

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Enjoy the Italian countryside by vintage steam train Photo by Antonio Cinotti

Olive oil harvest Joining an authentic olive oil harvest will reconnect you with nature and give you a true sense of rural Italian life. Masseria Il Frantoio in Ostuni hosts olive picking experiences each year from October to December where the farm’s guests can enjoy a rural retreat with a difference. Join the olive picking team on their daily duties, savour delicious local cuisine and enjoy an olive oil tasting workshop.

Marbled paper workshop Marbled paper has been used in bookbinding, for covering chests, trunks, pencils, etc., worldwide for centuries. With a myriad of colours and designs, no two pieces of marbled paper are identical. Learn the skills of marble papermaking by joining a course with Centro Machiavelli. The marble papermaking course is held over two weeks in the heart of historic Florence where you will discover the art of this enduring yet ancient tradition.

www.masseriailfrantoio.it www.centromachiavelli.it Nostalgic steam train journeys Throughout the autumn and winter, the Ferrovie Turistiche runs atmospheric steam train experiences along breathtaking rural tracks across the country. The routes often coincide with food festivals and seasonal celebrations.

For example, take the steam train from Siena to Monte Amiata and experience the scents of the forest which celebrates the autumn fungi harvest or the all day experience from Milan to Bergamo with an Agatha Christie-style theatrical mystery tour aboard.

Contemporary ceramics Resting among the tranquil hills between Siena and Florence is La Meridiana International School of Ceramics. An amazing oasis of the arts, La Meridiana’s courses are for both amateurs and more experienced ceramicists, with guest tutors from around the globe. Workshops are varied and extensive; learn the art of making, moulding, throwing, sculpting, firing and also discover the secrets of decorative techniques and finishes.

www.ferrovieturistiche.it

www.lameridiana.fi.it

Relais San Maurizio’s Grotta del Sale

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Salt and wine therapies At Relais San Maurizio you can forget all your troubles and retreat to Grotta del Sale, the hotel’s salt cave therapy room.

Carved centuries ago from sandstone it is located on the thalassotherapy path of the 16th-century monastery. Your treatment begins with a Biosauna, followed by immersion in three tanks which contain different concentrations of magnesium, sodium chloride and mineral salts.

If salt doesn’t float your boat, then go for a session of vinotherapy, where wine, grapes and pumice are used to refresh, revitalise and reinvigorate the skin, promoting anti-aging. We are reliably informed that the wine contains beneficial antioxidants making it a healthy option both inside and out. www.relaissanmaurizio.it Italian cowboy experience Spend a couple of days with your very own Maremmano horse atop a typical scafarda saddle and work alongside the butteri (Italian cowboys) on an Italian cattle drive. Based in Maremma, in the south west of Tuscany, you’ll meet the majestic larger than life horned cows and learn the basics of classic cattle handling.

With their origins dating as far back as the 15th-centrury, the butteri had almost reached the point of disappearing from Maremma’s traditions. But luckily a group of younger cowboys have reunited with the objective of protecting this ancient craft. Test your cowboy skills with this once in a lifetime Italian experience. www.butteri-altamaremma.com

Indulge the mind, body and soul at an Italian yoga retreat

Coastal half triathlon This October, luxury resort Borgo Egnazia will be hosting its first half iron man event. The swim will take place in the crystal-clear waters of Cala Masciola and the triangle-shaped course of 1,900 m finishes in a cove. The cycling course is a single ride of 88 km. With the sea to your right side, the route takes the south coastal road for the first 35 km towards Monopoli, then takes an uphill stretch towards the Selva di Fasano – the famous area characterised by typical Trulli. Completing the challenge, a 7 km run on the flat is designed around Borgo Egnazia’s wonderful fields coloured by seasonal vegetables with views of the coast. www.borgoegnazia.com Create your own handbag The historic Scuola del Cuoio offers a unique workshop where participants, under the guidance of a skilled master craftsman, make their very own bag from a design selected

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Behind the scenes at La Scala

from the school’s classic collection.

Another option is to sign up for an exclusive experience in Francesca Gori’s workshop. Gori is famed for her collection of one-of-a-kind hand-stitched bags, finished with jewels or embroidery. Participants will be taught two different styles of hand-stitching (cross and straight) and offered a selection of leathers, linen threads, colourful beads and small jewels to embellish their bag. www.scuoladelcuoio.com Behind the scenes at La Scala If you have a passion for the theatre, then take a tour of La Scala’s workshops where all the set designs and costumes are created.

A huge 20,000 sq. m workshop is divided into three pavilions dedicated to the Director Luchino Visconti, the Stage Designer Nicola Benois and the Costume Designer Luigi Sapelli (aka Caramba). The premises hold more than 60,000 stage costumes and include practice rooms for the chorus and a stage area for direction rehearsals. Feel the threads of artis-

tic energy which are woven throughout this gigantic workspace and see how the behind-the-scenes activities bring each performance to life. www.teatroallascala.org Luxury digital detox A stunning location overlooking miles of ancient forest and undulating hillsides, Eremito offers peace in abundance, a truly offline experience for those seeking some purity and inner calm. Formed from a 14th-century monastery, the original cells and refectory have been transformed into comfortable accommodation and relaxing shared spaces. Here you can indulge in guilt-free pleasures, fresh air, home-grown food, breathtaking views and endless skies. Each retreat at Eremito includes blissful days filled with meditation, yoga, breathing, walking, dancing and music, nourishing meals and fulfilling experiences each designed to soothe the mind, body and soul. www.eremito.com

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Set in Stone Sharon Kilby gets creative in the historic city of Pietrasanta, Versilia

Resting gently beneath the outcrop of rock formations above and just a stone’s throw from the sea, Pietrasanta has long been a destination for artists, designers, sculptors, photographers and writers.

An artistic hub for those drawn to the roots of their craft, the Pietrasanta of today is very different from the town of yesteryear. Having evolved from a serious and tough living quarrying community spanning generations to a free-spirited creative zone in the 1970s and 80’s, the city is now experiencing a whole new elevation into the arts and beyond.

The heritage of Pietrasanta is rooted to the mountains and the nearby coast, the terrain providing employment for generations of quarriers, exporters, designers and artists. While a large percentage of the stone extracted from the hillsides is used in chemical and industrial materials, the marble and stone from Pietrasanta and nearby Carrara is considered the very finest on the planet.

Nowadays the gritty industrial side of the city is somewhat cloaked by a more palatable identity, one linked to the arts and culture.

The origins of Versilia’s marble-working tradition go back to the middle ages where under the Medici government, there were several marble quarries operating in the nearby Alps. Over the centuries many artists, including Michelangelo Buonarroti, visited Pietrasanta to learn hands-on skills from local artisans, working closely with them to attain the very best results from the marble itself.

I met up with local sculptor, artist and cultural guide Maja Thommen who gave me her insider guide to Pietrasanta and its surroundings.

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“I first came to here when I was studying at the Carrara Accademia. I’m originally from Switzerland but was drawn to Italy as I wanted to study art and sculpture and this whole area is steeped in classic architecture and culture. I have been fortunate enough to learn from other artists who have shared their passion and techniques over the years. Pietrasanta used to have many shared communal art spaces where we would support each other, sadly most of these have now vanished. My own work has evolved but there was a time where I focussed on bronzes and teamed up with a local family run foundry who helped me cast my work. Pietrasanta is famous for its bronze foundries and people often do not realise the work involved in creating a finished piece of bronze sculptor, it has many stages and is intensely complex to say the least.”

Whilst we were happy visiting the small independent studios of Pietrasanta it seems sad that the communal art spaces are no longer in existence. One of the best ways to understand the origins of Pietrasanta is to take a tour of the quarries and authentic family-run studios and foundries. Maja often takes visitors into the quarries to see first-hand how the marble journeys from the mountain to the gallery.

“I love sharing information about the area around Pietrasanta, it is a unique environment in terms of geology and architecture. We often take a half-day tour, firstly we travel along the highway where you can clearly see the large excavated areas of the marble quarries.

We then visit a couple of quarries and venture inside where guests can experience the raw material in its natural environment. Following on from the quarries we

Pietrasanta is a hub for artists and sculptors, with seasonal exhibitions being held throughout the piazzas, streets and historic buildings

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Sculpture in Pietrasanta town square

stop at some family owned artisan studios and manufacturers and witness where and how the marble is carved into both classic and contemporary works. I always adapt each tour to suit the level of interest of the visitors, making each tour unique.”

Back in the city we took a walking trail around the backstreets dipping in and out of galleries, studios, boutiques and café bars. Modern day Pietrasanta is most certainly not bohemian but more design-led and visitors and the city’s residents often have a healthy budget for investing in original art and collectable pieces or sculpture.

Around every corner you will find bold architectural reminders of Pietrasanta’s ancient history, starting at the Piazza del Duomo with its beautiful rectangular square, which during the summer becomes the set of many outdoor temporary art exhibits. The Duomo of San Martino, a majestic cathedral built in the 14th-century, dominates the square. The facade is covered with marble, and inside there are breathtaking

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frescoes, and other important pieces of art.

Take time to explore the Bozzetti Museum and International Park of Contemporary Sculpture. The park hosts an open-air exhibition itinerary of more than 600 sketches, models and drawings of sculptures made by Italian and foreign artists who worked there. Visit the Rocchetta Arrighina and Porta a Pisa – which is the most picturesque access to the original historical centre and is the only survivor of the three ancient town gates.

Just a short walk away is the Church of San Antonio Abate, one of the oldest churches in town, here you can see ancient wooden statues of saints and Botero frescoes of the Gates of Heaven and Gates of Hell.

Stretch your legs a little and walk up on the hill to the Rocca di Sala and the Guinigi Palace.

From here you have a splendid view of the town centre and views towards the sea. The elegant noble palace, built by Paolo Guinigi in 1408, has hosted emperors and poets but today, sadly, it is no longer open to visitors.

Having taken in some culture, architecture and history, meander back to the main square and enjoy a bite to eat and a little shopping.

Pietrasanta may be a little sleepy in the daytime but it comes into its own after dark when the shops, bars and galleries stay open late into the night. The shop owners sit outside their stores on armchairs sipping wine and chatting with their neighbours, leaving you free to explore the goodies within – such a civilised and laidback idea.

The city is also a humble but veritable foodie mecca with the streets lined with all manner of eateries from sushi to salami, seafood to soul food. Nudging shoulders with the gourmet bars are many boutique clothing stores and jewellery designers each offering ultra-chic creations, perfect for the fashion savvy traveller. Immerse yourself in Emanuela Marchesini’s enchanting world of interior design or visit Elena Berton’s elite boutique for some serious shopping Pietrasanta style.

Marble quarries in Versilia

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Sacred Clay From the terracotta clay his family has used for making bricks since the 15thcentury Marcello Aversa now creates incredible detailed miniature masterpieces depicting Christmas Nativity scenes and the ancient rites of Sorrento.

Rosie Meleady observes the sculptor

Whenever I am in Sorrento I always make time to stop by Via Sersale 3, the terracotta sculpturing studio of Marcello Aversa. The studio has the feel of a sacred museum, with glass cabinets displaying beautiful miniature terracotta pieces of the Nativity and Holy Week processions of the town.

As you ramble around the glass cases observing the incredibly detailed miniscule scenes, you find your walk ends in the workshop where Marcello Aversa sits. His head is always down, lost in his latest creation. I never introduce myself, instead I stand and watch from afar and feel part of something miraculous. It’s a moment of tranquillity before I go back out into the buzzing streets of Sorrento with my batteries somewhat recharged.

Marcello Aversa was born in Sant’Agnello on the Sorrento Peninsula in 1966. The family business was a nearby kiln where terracotta bricks were fired in wood-burning ovens since the 15th-century.

“It is in the family kiln, in Maiano, where I believe

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I took my first steps and where I worked since I was 10 years old. Clay has always been the common thread of my life,” says Aversa.

To be involved with creating a parish Nativity crib scene has long been a common tradition for Italian children, especially in the South of Italy.

“It was not a rare thing for a boy who lived in a territory so rich in traditions – still well preserved – to work on the creation of the crib that would welcome the Bambinello on Christmas Eve. I started to make the crib at home, but soon the space available was too limited for my imagination. So starting at the small chapel of San Rocco, in my parish, I began to create great Nativity scenes for some of the churches of Sorrento.”

He continues, “I did not attend any art school and I have not had any teacher. I have always believed that it was God that made me discover a hidden gift of knowing how to shape clay.”

Marcello realised that what he did in large spaces, he could also create in miniature, using clay, concentrated sculptures that could fit on the palm

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“ I consider what I do not a job, but a passion and fun; this is one of the things that makes me happiest and I thank God for it.”

of a hand but with the same detail. So 25 years ago, he took one of the most difficult decisions of his life and he left the family kiln and started a new path of sculpturing mono scenes in terracotta.

“From the linear forms of the bricks, I passed to the more articulated ones of the cribs. The beginning was very difficult, but I decided to entrust myself to God and follow my instinct: I knew I would perhaps earn less, but I could be true to myself.”

With simple tools, such as toothpicks and tweezers he manages to model small terracotta figures 8 mm to 10 cm tall, and then he inserts them into scenes replicating the customs and rites of the Sorrento Peninsula.

“Among the rites of my land that I reproduce are those of the Holy Week, when the 19 brotherhoods of the area organise the ‘processions of the hooded’. Each brotherhood has a different colour, mostly white and black, but there are also reds and violets. The processions begin on Holy Thursday, when the confraternities visit the altars of the Deposition. On Friday morning, at 3 a.m., the Madonna is brought in search of the Son. Finally, on Friday evening there is the procession of

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the Dead Christ, together with the Mother of Sorrows.

“I create the scenario first, modelled in a single block of clay, then add all the figures and finally the vegetation and the small details. The rock and figures become one and the single block is then fired at nearly 1,000 degrees Celsius.”

The clay he uses is a mixture of what his family used in bricks for centuries and thinner clay.

How long it takes to create a piece is the most common question he is asked. “For me, as for all the artists and artisans who work with passion, time does not exist. I believe that when you start to relate time to money, you are no longer an artist but an entrepreneur.”

“I consider what I do not a job, but a passion and fun; this is one of the things that makes me happiest and I thank God for it.”

In addition to his shop in Sorrento, Marcello Aversa’s work can be commissioned through his website.

For more information visit: www.marcelloaversa.it

Top 5 Boutique Wine Resorts Envy Italy’s top 5 wine resorts where food and drink are the essential ingredients Escape the rat-race this autumn and retreat to a boutique bolthole like no other. Italians truly know the secret to enjoying the simple pleasures in life. Comfortable interiors, great food

and fine wines are all you really need. Add to that impeccable service and breathtaking views and you have all the elements of a perfect, chic retreat.

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L’Andana, Tuscany L’Andana is a charming hotel on the outskirts of the picture postcard coastal town of Castiglione della Pescaia. Surrounded by the Maremma national park, it is the perfect location for exploring Tuscany’s beautiful countryside.

L’Andana has two rather lovely buildings, the Villa and the Fattoria, which are seamlessly linked by a delightfully informal Winter Garden which acts as the lobby and the reception. Both the Villa and the Fattoria have undergone extensive rebuilding and restyling carried out under the expert supervision of architect Ettore Mocchetti, Chief Editor of AD Italy. The style is warm and truly Tuscan with rich hues of terracotta and muted earthy tones throughout. Decorated with antique furnishings, artisan works and Florentine silks, the atmosphere is one of simple sophistication.

The elegant atmosphere doesn’t stop at the main buildings it continues throughout the perfectly appointed estate including the hotel’s two restaurants. Locat-

ed in what used to be the ancient granary of Grand Duke Leopold II of Lorraine, La Trattoria Enrico Bartolini is a Michelin starred contemporary restaurant offering a refined “trattoria toscana” experience. At La Villa restaurant at L’Andana you can enjoy a more classic dining style. Here, the kitchen has a cosy, informal atmosphere that leads to an intimate dining room with a delightful stone fireplace and traditional country house feel.

The perfect base for wine lovers, L’Andana is situated close to Tenuta La Badiola a winery famed for its use of Acquagiusta spring water in its wine production. Take a tour of the cantina and sample a delicious glass of Acquagiusta Vermentino which derives its fresh character from the sea breeze, Tuscan sun and Maremma terroir which each contribute to the perfect conditions for growing exemplary wines. www.andana.it

The winter garden at L’Andana has a fairytale quality, offering a sumptuous welcome to this elegant resort

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Vinilia Wine Resort, Salento Vinilia Wine Resort is set in Salento, the wild land of Apulia and the world-famous Primitivo grape, Manduria. An imposing castle with a modern twist, this majestic mansion features classic local architecture yet has a fresh modern feel. The essence of Vinilia is its connection to the land and its wine-making culture. At Trulli di Pezza, the resort’s vineyard which is located just a few kilometres from the hotel, you will find organic vineyards that produce five delicious organic wines. The creation of the resort is the latest step in an inspiring story of business development led by sisters Marika and Simona Lacaita.

Vinilia subtly combines tradition with innovation and is decorated throughout in a vibrant and artistic style.

The Casamatta restaurant celebrates fresh Mediterranean cuisine and chef Pietro Penna uses homegrown ingredients from the castle’s kitchen garden and fresh fish from the nearby coast.

The Lacaita family’s winery Trullo di Pezza boasts one hundred hectares of primitivo, negroamaro and orchards where you can experience the joy of tasting the finest vintages in the cool shade of the old pajaru, the trullo used as a resting place for farmers. A young family business, the wines produced have unique qualities and the brand is starting to become very popular and currently produces five labels: 10 Grana - Fiano Salento IGP; Speziale - Negroamaro Rosato Salento IGP; Scarfoglio - Aglianico Salento IGP; Mezza Pezza - Primitivo Salento IGP; LiCurti - Primitivo di Manduria DOP. www.viniliaresort.com

“The Lacaita family’s winery Trullo di Pezza boasts one hundred hectares of primitivo, negroamaro and orchards where you can experience the joy of tasting the finest vintages in the cool shade of the old pajaru, the trullo used as a resting place for farmers.”

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The unique flooded vineyard of the Venissa Estate is planted with the Dorona di Venezia grape

Venissa Estate, Venice The Venissa Estate lies on Mazzorbo, one of the three islands of Native Venice, an archipelago of nature, colour, flavours and art.

Venissa is the perfect example of a ‘walled vineyard’. It was restored by the Bisol family of Prosecco fame, and within it grows the Dorona di Venezia variety, native to the Venetian Lagoon and cultivated for centuries until nearly becoming extinct after the great flood of 1966. Today, this walled vineyard produces 3,000 bottles of Venissa, one of the most sought-after wines in the world by enthusiasts and collectors.

The walled vineyard is the backdrop of the Ristorante Venissa, where chefs Francesco Brutto and Chiara Pavan put their own unique spin on Native Venice. Their dishes focus on fish from the lagoon, vegetables grown on the estate grounds (by nine local pensioners)

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and wild herbs that the chefs pick among the rows of vines.

In order to fully experience the world of Venissa, you can stay in one of the five rooms located in the Wine Resort on the estate itself which are located in one of the most beautiful country houses in the lagoon, originally inhabited by the Venetian Scarpa family, who cultivated the vineyard and gardens until 1966.

A further 13 rooms are available at Casa Burano, on the island of Burano, located just a short walk from Venissa across a small wooden footbridge, famous throughout the world for its fishermen, lace makers, and rainbow-coloured houses. www.venissa.it

The much sought after Venissa wine with its striking gold leaf label

Borgo Argiano, Siena Borgo Argiano is an elegant country wine estate located in the centre of Chianti just 20 minutes from the historic city of Siena. First opening its doors in 2018, Borgo Argiano has been beautifully designed by its British owner Mal Ogg. A serene location with endless views toward Monte Amiata and beyond, its roots date back to medieval times. Borgo Argiano offers spacious self-catering suites which have been painstakingly restored, artfully decorated and furnished with a sense of relaxed modern luxury.

The property is set within beautiful gardens featuring antique roses, lavenders and aromatic herbs. Each suite enjoys a private terrace or secluded balcony which are adorned with climbing jasmine and wisteria.

A spacious swimming pool overlooks the vines and valley below and the olive groves provide spacious areas to relax in the shade.

The main building boasts an elegant lounge with terracotta vaulted ceiling and library which is adjoined by an outdoor lounge and al-fresco drinks terrace. At the centre of the hamlet you will find a romantic chapel decorated with artisan frescoes and stained-glass windows.

Just a few minutes’ walk from the Argiano’s luxury apartments is the estate’s impressive cantina, here, you can enjoy a behind the scenes tour of the award-winning winery, Tenuta Cappellina. Director Alex Burges will give you a personal masterclass and tasting of the wines produced. A must try is the Dianne Tonsca IGT which demonstrates elegance, intensity and complexity. A fabulous Supertuscan, the Dianne, is made from the vineyards very best Sangiovese and Cabernet grapes, with just a hint of Syrah. www.borgoargiano.com

Relax in the comfort of Borgo Argiano’s elegant lounge

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The signature suite at Conte di San Bonifacio is pure honeymoon heaven

ContI di San Bonifacio Conti di San Bonifacio lies in the heart of the lush Maremma region of Tuscany. This elegant boutique hotel is surrounded by vineyards and the estate’s wine production lies at the heart of Conti di San Bonifacio’s character. Contemporary in design, the interior style is eclectic with a defined sense of modern Tuscan chic.

The lifestyle here is one of laid-back luxury, where contemporary interior design meets classic country living.

The award-winning vineyard produces exceptional wines and both wine tasting and masterclasses are

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available to guests. A very cool experience on offer is the opportunity to blend your own wine for special events and weddings. The terraced gardens have a beautiful arched bar set beneath an ancient oak tree, a truly romantic spot for a pre-dinner drink. Conti di San Bonifacio is the perfect honeymoon destination, an exclusive escape, nestled within the vine covered hillsides of Tuscany. www.contidisanbonifacio.com

“Join us in Venice and enjoy the real Italian experience as we take you through the vineyards and villages we know and love.�

Exclusive guided wine tours for 4 to 6 friends in the beautiful, undiscovered region of Friuli Venezia Giulia in North East Italy.

www.italiangrapeescapes.com

T u s c a n O rg a n i c To u r s Luxury Private Tours of Tuscany Tuscan Organic Tours offers customisable, full-day food and wine tours for your holiday in Tuscany. Discover excellent regional food and wine with english speaking guides and comfortable air-conditioned minivans. www.tuscanorganictours.com

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Blessed Are The Cheesemakers Italy is one of the world’s most productive cheese regions, with over 2,500 traditional varieties.

Adrienne Baumann meets artisan cheesemaker Chiara Onida and her 75 kids

Do the math: if you milk a herd of 75 goats twice daily obtaining an average of 250 litres per day, and then turn that milk into approximately 45 kilos of cheese, how much sleep do you get?

According to Chiara Onida, owner and cheesemaker at Il Boscasso, non molto (not much). To prove her point, she whips out her phone and shows me the varying shades of dawn recently shot from her bedroom window.

Being an early riser comes with the territory on Chiara’s farm perched atop a hill overlooking the Oltrepò Pavese region in northern Italy. Her 75 ‘kids’ eagerly await their first milking of the day as soon as the sun breaks over the horizon, a chore Chiara performs singlehandedly to maintain her close bond with the does. Once the goats have been turned out to pasture, she changes out of her farm clothes and reappears in white scrubs and a hat, magically transforming from milker to cheesemaker like a childhood superhero. The sweet smell of hay and rustling of munching goats in the barn is replaced by the more pungent perfume of fresh warm milk and the sound of silence. Only Chiara’s movements break the stillness of her

pristine creamery.

“Some people do yoga,” Chiara says. “For me, making cheese has the same effect. It puts me in harmony with the world.”

Out of the creamery come fresh cheeses topped with fennel seeds, a sprinkling of pepper, herbs from the garden or a dusting of ash. Lightly aged creamy cheeses are wrapped in walnut or chestnut leaves soaked in locally made grappa. Others are aged for two to five months in the cellar like Chiara’s Capra-Blu, the first blue cheese made from goat milk in Italy. All of Boscasso’s cheeses are handmade on site and are, in an Italian word, delizioso.

Milking done, new cheeses started, others flipped, salted and stored, Chiara moves steadfastly onto her next duties. As office administrator, salesperson and accountant she has orders to process, vendors to contact and invoices to send, not to mention the deliveries. Once a week Chiara gets behind the wheel and heads over the undulating, hairpin turns of Oltrepò’s country roads to the slickly paved streets of bustling Milan. Her door-to-door trek includes stops at some of the city’s most sought-out restaurants, like Al Pont de Ferr, Ristorante Joia and Trattoria da Piero e Pia.

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Each cheese is handmade from homegrown goat’s milk at Il Boscasso

Despite her seemingly endless to-do list and seven-day work week, nothing about the sprite, energetic woman in front of me suggests sleep deprivation. As she makes me an espresso and herself an herbal tea, she chats cheerfully and shares stories of how her bevy of goats, a French mountain breed called Camosciata delle Alpi, grew from one to 75 (a number that doubles in spring lambing season). A mathematics major and city dweller, Chiara grew up in Milan but spent her summers in the mountains with her family. She recalls long treks and overnight backpacking fondly, saying it instilled in her a love of nature and the outdoors. When she married fellow Milanese, Aldo Galbiati, the pair decided to escape the frenetic pace of the city and in 1987 bought the two hectares of land and old farmhouse in Ruino.

Their first goat, Cinzia, was purchased to help with Boscasso’s lawnmowing and weed whacking duties. Shortly after, Betty arrived to

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keep her company. With double the milk, Chiara learned how to make fresh cheese which she began sharing with friends and neighbours.

Several more goats joined the family, and soon enough local trattorias were clamouring for her products. When the number grew to 50 and her first son was born, Chiara took a deep breath and a leap of faith. She left her job teaching mathematics at an agrarian trade school and turned her hobby into a business.

Barns were added and the cheesemaking was moved from her kitchen into a fully equipped creamery. Manual milking was replaced by a more efficient mechanized system, and a tasting room and eventually a restaurant were built. Chiara’s family grew in synchrony with her herd of goats, so by the time she and Aldo separated in 2009 she had five children and the farm to tend to on her own. Undaunted, she hired help with the evening milking, cleaning and cheesemaking and carried on.

Today, Chiara’s eldest son, now 30, has taken over the pruning and gardening and grows the wheat used to make Boscasso’s breads and pizza dough. Her daughter Lea, now a mother herself, assists with the cheesemaking and serves tables, often with her young daughter strapped to her back or teeter-tottering between chairs. A pizza oven and terrace were added to the restaurant in 2018, so patrons can now enjoy Boscasso’s Sunday lunch tasting menu (available from April to October) while enjoying the mesmerizing view.

Chiara reflects on the path she’s taken and obstacles she has overcome rather matter-of-factly, with just a hint of pride. Still a mathematician to the core, she’s already calculating her next step. Those of us lucky enough to visit her farm and taste her cheese can consider ourselves fortunate for being a small part of the equation.

A Feast of Food and Wine During autumn, fabulous festivals of flavours can be found in many piazzas, castles and villages as we celebrate the great Italian harvest with ‘sagre’ galore

One of Italy’s most sacred seasonal events has to be the sagra, a festival organised by the local community to showcase regional and seasonal food. A sagra is a place where you’ll eat abundantly and learn the secrets of local customs and cuisine. Italian sagre are supported by local producers selling their own homegrown goods, but there are also tastings, competitions, demonstrations and celebratory menus to enjoy. Don’t be misled, it’s not just about the food: ancient sagre have their roots in rural festivals that mostly take place to honour a successful harvest.

Throughout September, October and November Italy offers an abundance of food and wine festivals in the the towns, cities and villages across the land, from thigh to toe. The wine harvest is now in full swing and the forests are producing their treasures of seasonal truffles, mushrooms, chestnuts and more.

Here is Envy Italy’s handpicked selection of foodie festivals taking place this season …

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Sagra delle Castagne, Soriano nel Cimino, Lazio 1st and 2nd weekends of October 2019 Of course, you’ll find men dressed in medieval outfits and chestnuts roasting in every piazza in this unspoilt hilltop town only one hour’s drive north of Rome. But, this sagra is really quite special: it’s also when Soriano’s four districts battle over which one best transforms the town to another bygone era. In the Convivium Secretum, for example, costumed locals serve traditional delicacies such as capon fricassee and white-rabbit pastry in a quest for the most authentic historic banquet. There are also jousts, archery and – in a dramatic finale – all of the locals dressed in medieval costume walk together through the streets in a grand parade.

Fiera del Tartufo Bianco, Sant’Agata Feltria, Emilia-Romagna Every Sunday in October 2019 The most well-known of Italy’s truffle festivals is the International White Truffle Fair in Alba. However, the medieval hilltop town of Sant’Agata Feltria, which rests where the regions of Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, Le Marche and Umbria intersect, is home to a truffle-themed sagra as rustic as it is fun. Stands serve fragrant dishes such as truffle-infused cheese fondue, truffled veal and gnocchi with truffle, while other local vendors cheerfully tout their wares all of which are laced with the heady perfume of Italian truffles.

Sagra del Tordo, Montalcino 26–27 October 2019 The Sagra del Tordo (Feast of the Thrush) festival takes place on the last weekend of October with drums, trumpets, costume parades taking place on the Saturday, followed by a day-long feast in Montalcino Castle on Sunday. It offers a range of local food (including roast thrush), plus excellent local wines. During the morning, there is a costume parade, and celebratory lunches are held in the four quarters of Montalcino – Pianello, Travaglio, Ruga and Borghetto. Similar feasts are held in the evening. A limited number of tickets are available for these feasts – so book in advance.

Bitto in Centro, Morbegno, Lombardy 12–13 October 2019 The petite town of Morbegno, situated close to the border of Switzerland, 70 miles north-east of Milan, is hailed for its delicious cheeses. Bitto is very much at the heart of this festival. This soft and sweet cheese when young gets sharper as it matures. Made from the milk of the cows that graze on the Alpine pastures, Bitto was awarded a protected (DoP) status 20 years ago.

Look for the authentic cheese melted over pizzoccheri,

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buckwheat pasta, as well as local producers selling ingredients such as the medicinal Alpine-herb Amaro liquor or wild organic honey.

Bacco nelle Gnostre, Noci, Puglia 9–10 November 2019 Hosted in a cute, whitewashed town halfway between Bari and Taranto, this festival celebrates the Pugliese community and its sense of spirit. Here residents prepare food in their own kitchens, then share it with visitors in the town’s atmospheric gnostre (courtyards).

Sample a hearty dish of orecchiette or grilled octopus and wash it down with a large glass of vino novello, primitivo or negramaro. Soak up the atmosphere while enjoying the music and laughter. The constant beat of tarantella (folk music with dancing) can be heard throughout the town and the whole event has a joyous feel where visitors are welcomed like family.

Fiera Nazionale del Marrone, Cuneo, Piedmont 18–20 October 2019 Now in its 21st year, this festival in Cuneo, 60 miles south of Turin, has become one of Italy’s most popular, with over 300,000 visitors. The star of the show is the utterly delectable marrone – the chestnut’s more desirable, sweeter relative (also the one used for marrons glacés) – which have been nurtured in the area since the Middle Ages. This large-scale festival is Italy’s foremost, but it’s not just marrone you’ll find here: hundreds of other vendors also sell local olive oils, cheeses, wine and the mouth-watering cuneesi al rhum, a local speciality of rum-infused dark chocolate.

La Sagra dell’Uva, Marino, Lazio 3–6 October 2019 The sagra in Marino is famous worldwide for its hedonistic centrepiece where wine (not water) runs through the town’s central fountain. Launched in 1924, today the sagra – is held annually in a town overlooking Lago Albano, 15 miles south of Rome. Stalls sell specialities including porchetta and ciambella al mosto (a ring-shaped cake with raisins). Grapevines are strung across the narrow streets, and statues are adorned with bunches of grapes which are draped lavishly around the town. The highlight takes place on Sunday, when a costumed procession re-enacts the 1571 Battle of Lepanto – and this is when the fountains flow with wine. Bring an empty jug and some terracotta mugs and simply fill up and share. This festival is incredibly popular and as the fountain provides, the merrymaking can become a little too medieval at times for some.

The chestnut harvest is celebrated throughout Italian towns and villages

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Gourmet Cooking Italy is without a doubt one of the top destinations for travellers who are looking for an epicurean adventure. The choice of luxury hotels and villas offering gourmet experiences is steadily on the rise. Envy Italy takes a look at Italy’s new breed of gastronomic hospitality

Originally, culinary tours in Italy were simple affairs with an emphasis on traditional home cooking such as pasta and pizzamaking courses. These basic ‘foodie’ experiences were important and still provide the backbone to Italian cooking tours today.

However, in recent years, gourmet travellers have divided into two very different camps: there are those guests who simply want to soak up the atmosphere and heart-warming culture of Italian ‘home-style’ cooking and there are the elite travellers

who are looking to sample the very finest wines alongside masterfully created exquisite Italian dishes. It is these guests that have inspired a new generation of luxury hoteliers across Italy to ‘up their game’ on the culinary front.

Several new Italian cooking schools and gourmet tours have sprung up, all of which are masterminded by luxury Italian hotels.

Maximising on ‘in-house’ experiences, 5-star hotels and boutique country houses are now offering a variety of interesting gastronomic experiences that have a more contemporary flavour.

Borgo Santo Pietro

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Borgo Santo Pietro One outstanding hotel hitting the headlines in culinary circles is Borgo Santo Pietro in Tuscany. In June 2015 the hotel opened its state-of-the-art cooking school located next to its impressive kitchen gardens. These innovative culinary experiences include farm to plate cooking, country to coast seafood classes, chocolate making, cooking with truffles, bread-making, baking and gluten-free classes to name but a few. The hotel’s emphasis on gastronomy is carried throughout the country estate and activities also include olive oil tasting, truffle hunting, honey tasting and farm tours.

Castello Banfi Another historic Tuscan property showcasing traditional food and wine production is Castello Banfi. Alongside the award-winning wines, guests can also partake in a tour of the Balsameria which is located under the north wing of the castle. Here you will find the estate’s precious Condimento Balsamico Etrusco. This highly refined balsamic vinegar is obtained using the traditional methods of the ancient Etruscans. Private tours and exclusive tastings can be arranged for guests of the hotel.

Palazzo Seneca This beautiful palazzo in Umbria hosts regular gourmet events such as the ‘Prosciutti dal Mondo’, a three-day festival that celebrates the ‘Norciana’ or local ham. Guests can experience an Italian-style festa where the very best regional food and wine producers come together to offer an inspiring bounty of flavours. Guided tours of local farms and vineyards are combined with exclusive wine tastings and culinary tours. This kind of five-star gourmet break attracts visitors from around the world who wish to indulge in fine food. Guests can also partake in speciality cookery classes in the grand 16th-century palace, including classes focusing on local cured meats, lentils and truffles.

Hotel Bellevue In the Italian Alps guests can book a cheese-tasting session in Hotel Bellevue’s own ‘cave’. Located in the heart of the mountains, the hotel’s cheese cellar boasts cheeses from across the region as well as national specialties from central and southern Italy. Guests can also take a hike to La Maison à l’Alpage, a country lodge in the national park, where once a week Hotel Bellevue’s chefs transfer their skills to higher ground and work al-fresco at the foot of the Gran Paradiso peak preparing freshly grilled meat and cooked polenta in a traditional cast-iron cauldron.

Hotel Bellevue’s chefs create an al-fresco mountain feast

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Where Coast meets Mountain Sharon Kilby visits a heavenly oasis where the coast meets the country. Locanda al Colle is everything you could dream of in a Tuscan country house

Over the last 12 years of living in Italy I’ve been lucky enough to have visited some of the most beautiful country houses and boutique hotels as part of my job as a freelance writer and have been fortunate to have been thoroughly spoilt many times. From palaces on the Grand Canal in Venice to contemporary suites in Sardinia, 5-star wellbeing resorts in Puglia to sumptuous spas in Rome, I really thought I had seen the very best that Italy had to offer: I was wrong.

My husband and I were invited to the Camaiore area of Versilia. We took a lovely drive along the coast from Pisa, passing Viareggio and skimming Pietrasanta. We were going to Locanda al Colle, a country house situated on a hillside with mountains to the rear and the Mediterranean at the front and were keen to wind down a little away from our busy online lives attached to our iPads and mobile phones.

Beyond the entrance gate, the winding drive bought us into an oasis-like garden filled with an abundance of gorgeous scented plants, ancient olive trees and trailing roses. From the moment we walked up the sweeping stone steps we felt instantly relaxed and at home.

Locanda al Colle is not a hotel so to speak, although the level of service leaves some 5-star properties standing; it is a privately owned country house. That said, don’t be fooled, this is no agriturismo either. It is perfectly appointed and beautifully decorated throughout – here, muted colours and

restful hues add to the sense of tranquillity, while bold, vivid artworks provide splashes of colour and a sense of joy.

The owner Riccardo Barsottelli worked in collaboration with architect and old friend Marco Innocenti overseeing the property’s total transformation. Seven years ago, he completed a truly stunning space that effortlessly combines super modern design details with original architecture, antique furnishings and contemporary artworks.

Evolving from a run-down farmhouse in need of renovation into a nine roomed guest house then once again into a 12 roomed boutique establishment. Locanda al Colle has somehow retained a charming sense of history and added to this a very contemporary air of serenity.

Riccardo explains, “I prefer not to think of Locanda al Colle as a hotel; it’s a country house. We want our guests to feel as though this is their Tuscan home from home, a place where they can switch off, relax and enjoy the good things in life.”

The expansive terrace that greets you on arrival is also an outdoor lounge and dining area. We were spoilt for choice of where to enjoy our welcome drink but chose a private corner, adorned with lanterns and tealights with a far-reaching view of the valley below and the coast. With the sound of birdsong and the distant notes of mellow jazz wafting from the open French doors of the lounge, I genuinely felt unplugged.

The atmosphere at Locanda al Colle is of reassuring luxury where life just seems so much less frantic.

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“I prefer not to think of Locanda al Colle as a hotel, it’s a country house. We want our guests to feel as though this is their Tuscan home from home, a place where they can switch off, relax, and enjoy the good things in life.”

The house itself is the epitome of good taste, not over styled yet certainly worthy of the cover of World of Interiors magazine. Striking pieces of sculpture and intriguing modern art can be found throughout the three-storey property where each floor has its own lounge area, filled with books and sumptuous sofas, perfect for retreating from the heat of the afternoon. The entrance lounge, dining room and open kitchen are interconnected adding further to the country house experience where guests can enjoy chatting with chef Gian Luca while he prepares his delicious home-made sour dough bread and organic pastries.

Our suite, on the second floor, felt more like a spacious apartment; beautifully furnished with a four-poster bed, we were greeted by fresh roses, a beautifully scented bedroom and welcome gifts. The suite featured its own entrance hall and intimate lounge, his and her bathrooms and, most magical of all, its own courtyard garden. Here I found an al fresco lounge, dining table and chairs, lanterns, rugs, cushions and even an outdoor shower. Resting beneath a jasmine-covered pergola, flanked by bay hedges and borders of flowering roses, agapanthus and oleander, I really had no choice but to succumb to Locanda al Colle’s spell.

Leaving my husband to read a book with his own personal view of a begonia-covered terrace I took some time to explore. Each room has its own terrace or garden area, some of which include wood burners, daybeds and hammocks, each having its own

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unique sense of contemporary cool. From our terrace I took a little path along the back of the house to the stunning pool and sundeck, the gateway of which rests beneath a weeping willow. The pool is totally private and just far enough away from the house itself.

Passing several beautiful stone sculptures along the way I noted some double daybeds nestled on a secluded garden terrace; the perfect spot for honeymooners. Looping back up to the entrance terrace I met up with Riccardo to hear more of what is on offer to guests.

“We have many guests return time and time again to Locanda al Colle; they say it has a calming atmosphere where they somehow feel revived. This part of Tuscany is unique and enjoys the best of both the country and the coast. Guests here can choose to rest in the garden, by the pool or go to our private beach club just 10 minutes away. I think the art collections here also inspire guests to think more creatively and become more in touch with themselves again. Art inspires introspection and provokes reaction; this is healthy for the mind, body and soul. In such a busy world we all need to take time for creativity and beauty.”

Riccardo went on to tell me his plans for some exclusive retreats he is running this autumn.

“Having noticed how an environment infused with art can improve a guest’s sense of wellbeing, we have created a new and exciting retreat for managing directors. The retreat is being hosted at Locanda al Colle in

Locanda al Colle’s terrace enjoys stunning views of the valley and coastline

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“Into The Mind’ is a five-day retreat where MD’s can learn and gain inspiration through creativity. Guests will visit museums, galleries and gardens in Lucca and take part in a handson creative sculpture workshop.”

Contemporary art and modern designs sit perfectly alongside vintage and antique furnishings

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Locanda al Colle’s suites are unique, spacious and incredibly elegant

collaboration with Dutch artist and sculptor Ben Wijnen whose work can be seen in our gardens and interiors. “‘Into The Mind’ is a five-day retreat where MDs can learn and gain inspiration through creativity. Guests will visit museums, galleries and gardens in Lucca and take part in a hands-on creative sculpture workshop.

“Success and productively in business can benefit from a fresh approach and the ‘Into the Mind’ retreat will give those in high-powered roles the opportunity to think more intuitively and gain clarity.”

When it comes to dining, as a country house, there is no defined restaurant, but guests are

invited to enjoy open kitchen evenings which are sociable events and held on Wednesdays and Saturdays. On Monday evenings there is an osteria-style meal with authentic home-made dishes such as crostini, soups and pasta. Michelin-trained Gian Luca is also on-hand for cooking lessons where you can learn the secrets of making traditional Tuscan food.

Having soaked up the atmosphere of this heavenly escape and enjoying the soundest night’s sleep I’ve had in years, I thought things couldn’t really get any more comforting. Breakfast was another matter entirely, a total feast for the senses, even for a picky gluten-free foodie like me. An abundant buffet awaited us: cakes,

pastries, croissants and muffins rubbed shoulders with warm focaccia, quiches, Valdostana and savoury flans. Fresh fruit, yoghurts and muesli were also on offer, as were numerous varieties of local cheeses and charcuterie, smoked salmon and organic eggs.

For me, a freshly made macchiato, two naughty slices of warm, flour-free almond cake, organic yoghurt and fruit salad marked a very happy ending to our visit to Locanda al Colle, but rest assured, before too long we will be back. www.locandaalcolle.com

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A new breed of Winemaker Sharon and Gary Kilby visit Monterosola, one of Italy’s most innovative and inspirational modern vineyards

Set between the medieval towns of San Gimignano and Volterra is one of Italy’s most contemporary new cantinas, Monterosola. This summer, I was invited to enjoy a private tour of the property and sample a selection of its organic wines.

For the past three years or more, I have watched with interest the construction of this grand-scale modern cantina. During this time, locals have speculated on its eventual outcome; the sheer size of its majestic tower and the metreage of the arched courtyard were a little concerning to say the least. Now, thankfully the construction is complete, and the results are incredible, the perfect fusion of function and form, a state-ofthe-art winery housed in an architecturally impressive Tuscan-inspired building.

The location of Monterosola is one close to my heart; resting on the billowing hillsides below Volterra, the winery is just an hour from Siena and Pisa and 45 minutes from the exclusive wine growing region of Bolgheri.

We were greeted by Daniel Ericsson, the Marketing Manager and Sommelier of Monterosola. His detailed knowledge of organic wine production and both classic and modern growing techniques was seriously im-

pressive. He also filled us in on the history and culture of Monterosola and its plans for development in the future.

Originally a family-owned vineyard operating out of a farmhouse on the estate, the wines grown here were excellent, but produced in small numbers each year. The original vines were planted several decades ago, yet now, the Monterosola team have extended the vineyards and planted several new varieties of grape which surround the fortress-style cantina. The idea is to steadily increase production and sales and gradually increase the vineyards to roughly 25 ha. over the next two years.

The turning point for Monterosola occurred in 2013 when the estate was purchased by Bengt and Ewa Thomaeus from Sweden, who also acquired an additional 120 ha. of surrounding land. The Thomaeus family have subsequently converted the whole estate to organic farming and were the driving forces behind the new state-of-the-art construction.

Joining forces with local architect Paolo Prati, the building of the brand-new super cantina started in 2015 and was completed in an incredibly short time considering the scale and complexity of the project.

During our visit Daniel gave an insightful tour of this

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Envy’s leisure writer and wine taster Gary Kilby

impressive five-storey complex and the land around it.

“At Monterosola we try and do as little to the wine as possible, letting the quality of the grapes set the tone for the finished wine. The hard work and science side takes place long before the grapes are even grown. We nurture the soil and create the very best organic growing conditions. The terroir is fairly heavy mineral rich clay, so the seasons obviously play a huge part in the growing process. Our aim is to produce the finest grapes, which in turn will make the very best wines.”

Sitting 430 metres above sea level, facing south, the slopes of the Volterroir offer near enough perfect growing conditions similar to those of the Brunello region of Montalcino. The success of the Monterosola brand lies in the strength of its team, with CEO, agronomist and winemaker Michele Senesi having managed the winery for the past 12 years.

The innovative work of Monterosola’s own oenologist Stefano Dini is further strengthened by the supervision of world-renowned viticulturist Alberto Antonini who has previously worked with some of Italy’s most prestigious cantinas including Antinori and Frescobaldi.

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We started our tour in the grape collection and sorting room. Here grapes are checked by hand and any leaves removed. They are then gently processed and then gravity fed through the building to the cellars beneath. The cellars themselves are totally space age, with huge tulip-shaped concrete vats lining either side of the cellars. Above, a large tube runs on a computer-controlled track along the cantina which feeds the vats with the prepared grapes from the sorting room above. I was really taken aback by the scale and the technology involved. The tulip-shaped vats are known to improve the circulation and fermentation process of the wines. I should also mention that this is an entirely natural, alchemic reaction where the fermentation occurs by utilising the natural yeast in the environment – clever stuff.

Combining traditional techniques and new production methods could be difficult territory to navigate but, from all impressions, Monterosola has harnessed the best of both worlds. The estate is eco-friendly, energy efficient and organic – yet there is no compromise whatsoever on quality.

Moving into a second cantina Daniel shows us the oak-aging process

of Monterosola’s wines which sit beneath a fresco of the family’s crest and motto Per Mare Per Terras. We then take a quick peek at the white wine vats; it’s important to mention the white wines as they are also very good.

We head back up through the tower in a circular Manhattan-style lift and then take a look around the very large and architecturally intriguing tasting room, designed by Bengt Thomaeus himself. The vaulted ceilings are classic Tuscan, yet the oak booths are less so, designed for exclusive groups to enjoy personal tasting

and weddings. We hope to collaborate with boutique hotels and event planners in the future, both for wine-tasting experiences and for hosting events. Our wines are selling well, and we aim to expand our exports globally over the next couple of years as our production increases.”

Seated at the beautifully presented table in the private tasting room we sampled seven of Monterosola’s organic wines, from the fresh, young whites, through to the oak-aged serious reds. Listening to Daniel’s enthusiastic overview of each wine made me truly appreciate the

“We nurture the soil and create the very best organic growing conditions. The terroir is fairly heavy mineral rich clay, so the season’s obviously play a huge part in the growing process. Our aim is to produce the finest grapes, which in turn will make the very best wines.”

sessions of Monterosola’s award-winning wines. Each tasting station can accommodate up to 14 guests, with a central raised platform for the sommelier – a unique concept designed with the idea of making the tasting experience more personal for groups.

The last stop was the sophisticated private tasting room, elegantly decorated with a vast central table and modern glass windows overlooking both cantinas beneath. The perfect venue for exclusive events and private dining, the table even had integrated lighting to see the colours of the wine more clearly.

Daniel told us a little more about Monterosola’s plans for the future. “We have a great space here and numerous options for entertaining both inside and out. Our large terraces and courtyards are perfect for corporate events, celebrations

hard work, science and skill involved in producing such first-class contemporary wines.

I was particularly taken with the Canto Della Civetta (Song of the Owl), a single variety Merlot with a rich powerful character and a distinct note of blackberries and a hint of liquorice, a beautifully structured wine perfect for an autumn evening. Daniel told me that this wine was named after a white owl which would visit the estate on warm summer nights. Further adding to this legend, throughout Tuscany the owl is also thought to bring good luck to those which see it.

Monterosola is a refreshing and inspiring addition to the Tuscan wine-making industry, a leader in modern technology and an ambassador for organic farming, a trailblazer if you like.

Monterosola produces some awardwinning and outstanding organic wines

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The Iconic Amalfi Coast The iconic coastline road clings to the side of the cliff most of the way from Salerno to the Sorrento Coast. Rosie Meleady braves the endurance test of crazy weekend Italian drivers and distracting, out of this world views

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Vegetable seller in Ravello

The Amalfi Coast is widely considered Italy’s most scenic stretch of coastline and was entered onto the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1997.

However, it is a winding, narrow, challenging route and can be one of the more exciting or stressful driving experiences in Europe depending on how much you enjoy driving.

We drove down from Rome on the A3 Autostrada and arrived at our starting point of Salerno. Vietri sul Mare is a good village to stop in for a coffee, shop for some beautiful local artisan ceramics and have your first panoramic views of the dramatic coastline. The coast road can be driven in one day but it is so much better to make a three or four day trip of it so as to enjoy some of the towns along the way.

Maiori and Minori This is a great stopover village as it has the longest length of beach on the Amalfi Coast, and the Torre Normanna (Norman Tower), which juts out into the sea, offers a romantic restaurant experience.

Just up the road, Minori is a buzzing little town and a perfect stopping

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point for a gelato. It also offers ample restaurant choices serving seafood of course.

We had scheduled our first overnight spot at Maiori at the Residence Due Torri, which offers bright and spacious apartments with a fully equipped kitchenette, a balcony and valet parking.

Atrani Often overlooked, but worth a visit. It has a nice square with a singing barber, cafĂŠs and two pretty little churches to visit.

Ravello The junction close to Atrani brings you on the weaving climbing road with hairpin bends up to Ravello. Ravello is one of the most romantic towns in southern Italy and because of its height above sea-level it tends to be less overrun with tourists than the seashore towns below. Park the car and walk to the square for lunch and then up the cobbled winding pedestrian streets to Villa Cimbrone and explore the beautiful gardens, villa and breathtaking views. Of course, stay overnight here if you can or at Belmond Villa Caruso which also has outstanding views, gorgeous gardens and 5-star luxury.

Amalfi The winding road back down from Ravello brings you directly to Amalfi. It was once one of Italy’s four powerful maritime republics along with Venice, Pisa and Genoa.

There are lots of souvenir shops and cafés along the seafront and in the main square that is in front of the famous cathedral (Duomo di Sant’Andrea). Walk up to the town away from the cathedral and you will come to a paper mill complete with working waterwheel which is worth a visit. The area is called Valle dei Mulini (Valley of Mills) and is dotted with watermills now in ruin, but were once the creators of paper which Amalfi is still famous for. Continuing along you’ll come to some of the most spectacular parts of the road. It is worth your while to visit Grotta dello Smeraldo – a spectacular marine cave of luminous emerald waters that you can visit by boat, elevator, or rock-cut steps. Just beyond it, you reach the Vallone di Furore, one of the coast’s most impressive gorges which you can explore further by foot.

Praiano and Positano Next along the road you will reach Praiano and Positano, two more scenic and majestically situated coastal villages. Positano being the most famous and most photographed due to the striking dome of Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. The small town is pedestrianised and full of boutiques, restaurants and interesting galleries. Park in one of the many car parks on the outskirts of the town and ramble down through the town to the beachfront.

Stay at the Hotel Montemare or for a unique experience the Torre Silja.

For a romantic restaurant with a view, try Il Capitano on the road or Rada down on the beach which has a cave nightclub underneath, right on the beach – which is pretty cool.

Sorrento From here the road curves around the tip of the peninsula to the coastline of Sorrento. Sorrento is a popular seaside resort town and worth a visit. It’s flatter than the towns you have just come from and easy to navigate around.

Eat under the lemon groves at the charming O’Parrucchiano Restaurant and stay at the new Grand Hotel La Favorita or the Grand Royal Hotel.

Tips for Driving the Amalfi Coast Avoid driving it on long weekends and aim for just before or after the tourist seasons – mid-September to October and May. Not only to avoid the general traffic but also the crazy motorbikes, Vespas and cyclists which weave their way through the traffic on whichever side of the road they choose.

Torre Normanna restaurant in Maiori

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The Greenhouse Effect Envy Italy meets with Margherita Pandolfini, one of the founders of La Serra MK Textile Atelier, a talented duo of textile designers who have created an inspiring glasshouse workshop in Florence

If I were to conjure up an image of an artist’s workshop in Florence, visions of a lofty penthouse studio with far-reaching city views may spring to mind, or maybe a tiny room tucked away within an old palazzo. Not for a second would an ancient greenhouse be my natural choice. Yet, here on the outskirts of Florence is an antique glasshouse that has been transformed into a studio for two of Italy’s most inspiring textile designers, Margherita Pandolfini and Karl Jorns.

An inviting and vibrant art space the greenhouse, or la serra in Italian, is attached to a 15th-century palace overlooking a secret walled garden. It was added to the palace in the 19th-century when the garden was redesigned and became well-known during Sofronia Stibbert’s residence in the palace; an avid plant-lover, it was here that she used it to cultivate camellias.

For many years the greenhouse was abandoned and left to become overgrown and somewhat of a wilderness, but Margherita and Karl saw something no one else could; rather than a disused glasshouse they saw an oasis of potential. Months of labour and development reaped rewards, and now the space is a true hothouse of talent.

The space is open, lined with capacious arched windows and flooded with natural daylight. The floors are original terracotta tiles and enormous original timber doors open out onto a tranquil shaded lawn.

Inside the studio the interiors walls are covered with inspiration boards and art supplies. A rich array of printed textiles and handmade products give the space a rich vibrancy. The fabrics and pigments used are each a reflection of the artists’ surroundings, travels and, of course, Florentine art and history.

Margherita and Karl opened the atelier in 2009 and rebranded as La Serra MK in 2013. La Serra MK combines their passions for textiles, travelling and creativity along with the heritage of screen printing and handmade products. Their colourful work techniques include silk screen printing and digital design which are used to create unique furnishings for the home and garden.

Margherita studied sculpting and fine art at Camberwell College of Arts in London, where she lived and worked for 14 years. Karl studied architecture and design, living and working in Brazil before moving to Florence over 20 years ago. The two first met when they worked together on a joint project for Elio Ferraro Vintage in Florence.

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La Serra MK Textile Atelier focuses on original and made to order textile designs, including decorative textile panels, cushions, headboards, tableware and placemats, among many other collectable items. Some of the couple’s largest commissions have been for corporate clients and events such as weddings and celebrations. Their textiles and prints feature within interior design schemes worldwide and their client list is impressive to say the least.

While their artistic skills might well be in demand, Margherita and Karl keep things real and are happy to share their passion for textiles with others and also teach at their exclusive workshops. “Each session is designed for those who are looking to get their hands a little dirty and learn more about textiles, a real hands-on experience,” says Margherita.

She explains, “The greenhouse philosophy of La Serra revolves around using natural dyes and pigments on organic Italian linens; our designs are often inspired by nature, flora and fauna. The studio space is the perfect setting for creative collaborations and for our

“The greenhouse philosophy of La Serra revolves around using natural dyes and pigments on organic Italian linens; our designs are often inspired by nature, flora and fauna.”

larger scale bespoke projects. It is a very social space and when we host events here it takes on a whole new dimension. The light and height of the greenhouse are truly inspiring and allow the pigments we use to really show themselves in depth. We host workshops for guests who want to learn about the processes of screen printing and other techniques of textile design. It’s a lovely way to share what we do with others.”

For more information about workshops visit: www.mktextileatelier.com

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Function and Form Italian Kitchen designers Marrone + Mesubim unveil the super-sleek C|3000

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Marrone + Mesubim fuse function and form

This autumn sees the official launch of the innovative C|3000 kitchen by Italian designers/manufacturers Marrone + Mesubim. A super-sleek fusion of function and form, this unique kitchen concept offers all the components of a large-scale professional kitchen, intelligently wrapped up in a 3-metre long unit, perfect for both residential and commercial interiors.

The C|3000 combines all the essential hi-tech elements of a professional chef’s kitchen, yet each of these are effortlessly within arm’s length. Designed for those who seriously love to cook, the C|3000 offers a unique professional cooking system for the home.

The philosophy behind the C|3000 is that of clean cooking, where the processes are pared down to the simple actions of “wash-cut-cook” where exceptional dishes can be made easily using the system’s integrated washing zones, preparation areas and cooking systems.

Masterfully combining aesthetics and efficiency, Marrone + Mesubim’s impressive cooking concept is already proving popular with professional chefs and home-cooks worldwide.

During its development period the design team consulted with their network of Michelin-starred chefs on its construction, and the results are exceptional.

Manufactured in the north of Italy, the C|3000 seamlessly fuses state of the art design with traditional artisan techniques to produce an exceptional kitchen product of the highest quality and finish.

A contemporary kitchen that embodies modern living, the C|3000 is the perfect choice for foodies who want to create a stylish yet professional kitchen space within a residential interior. www.marronemesubim.com

“We re-defined home cooking based on a systematic step by step process to improve the overall cooking experience.”

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Siena : Live the Dream Siena is world famous for its enchanting history and vibrant heritage. It is also a protected Unesco World Heritage Site and has amazing properties for sale Alongside the old historical centre of Siena itself the area also offers the towns of Pienza, San Gimignano, Montepulciano and Montalcino. The soft rolling hills of the Val d’Orcia, the Chianti vineyards and the striking grey clay of the Crete Senesi. Siena is rich and vibrant in culture with its contrasting landscapes and its ancient history that goes back to the age of the Etruscans and the Romans, and to the continuous bloody battles against Florence.

Traditions like the famous Palio di Siena remain strong, as do other events in the smaller towns such as their feasts like Santa Fina of San Gimignano and the white truffle of the Crete Senesi and San Giovanni d’Asso. Bonding with the territory, the seasons still influence the life in the little towns and hamlets with the harvesting of grapes for wine, grain and olives, and the whole province becomes a natural film set.

The offer from the Siena based Engel Voelkers estate agency is wide and varied, whether you are seeking a country home surrounded by Chianti or Brunello vineyards, a farmhouse that dominates the hills of the Val d’Orcia, or a rural retreat in the Crete area where you can arrive on a country road bordered with cypress trees. A villa on the outskirts of Siena or an apartment in the town centre with a view of all the terracotta rooftops and the duomo, they have an impressive portfolio of properties in the Siena region and beyond.

Their qualified international team will be able to guide you, step by step, in your acquisition with a carefully chosen selection of properties.

Beauty is not a fairy tale; it is something to be lived. www.engelvoelkers.com/siena

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The magic of Crete Senesi This elegant country home, set between the Crete Senesi and Val d’Orcia, consists of two buildings in the middle of a lush garden. The main building is on three levels. The ground floor is beautifully restored in the classic Tuscan style; there are two elegant living rooms around a large fireplace, a charming dining room adjacent to a professional kitchen and then an informal breakfast/dining room. The living area continues outdoors on the panoramic terrace with views of Montalcino and rolling hills. From here there is access to a large lawn embellished with flowerbeds, lavender and rosemary that, running along the brick pavers, leads to two swimming pools. From the internal staircase you reach the basement where there is a laundry room and a bathroom.

On the first floor there are two large, elegant bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms, finely furnished and with loft

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space. The other bedrooms located in the main building and in the second building have independent entrances and six exclusive suites with living area and kitchenette, perfect for hosting friends or for tourist activities. The property is enhanced by a luxurious wellness area with gym, sauna and massage room with a large Jacuzzi.

A spacious multi-purpose room makes this property suitable for organising cultural events, ceremonies or retreats to practice yoga or meditation. To complete the property there is a 3,000 sq. m olive grove that produces 300– 400 litres of excellent Tuscan oil every year. This property is an ideal location for spending relaxing holidays with families and friends, immersed in the placid atmosphere of nature, or to carry out tourist activities, as already done with great success by the current owners. www.engelvoelkers.com/siena

Charming Val d’Orcia The estate covers a total area of about 75 ha. in the heart of the Val d’Orcia, in a pristine natural setting of rare beauty. On the estate, there are three beautifully restored farmhouses, two ponds, a riding school with horse stables, a spa, a panoramic swimming pool, hot tubs, a renowned restaurant and about 30 ha. of olive grove with over 7,500 trees and production of excellent quality organic oil. The farmlands have a hilly position, with the typical gullies of the Val d’Orcia and mostly south-facing.

Currently the land is mainly set as olive grove, as the cultivation of olive trees in this area can give a product of the highest quality thanks to the temperature differential between day and night in summer and autumn periods. Some arable crops are currently used for the production of forage for horse feed.

In addition to agricultural activity, two houses of the Casa Baccano nucleus,

offer accommodation and the opportunity of tourist activities to be carried out with a total of 13 double rooms, large living areas, a swimming pool and a wellness centre. The exclusive Tuscan Equestrian resort has four bedrooms and two equestrian-themed apartments. Here, horse trekking, horse riding lessons and team-building activities are all possible.

The Tuscan Equestrian has a fenced paddock of over 5 ha. where horses can move freely day and night thanks to special shelters. The estate houses the gourmet restaurant Extravergine, which offers delicious Tuscan lunches, dinners and snacks with the supervision of Chef Consultant Riccardo Benvenuti. It is also possible to purchase an additional 115 ha. with a 700 sq. m farmhouse in need of renovation. www.engelvoelkers.com/siena

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Among the Chianti vineyards Located in the heart of the Sienese Chianti, just a few minutes from Siena and surrounded by fine vineyards, this beautiful stone farmhouse is spread over several levels and consists of three buildings with a total of 654 sq. m. The first unit has a surface of about 172 sq. m and is spread over two levels: a beautiful porch leads into the large and bright living room, with a large fireplace and beautiful views of the surrounding vineyards, and continues to the spacious kitchen with windows on three sides.

On the upper floor, there is a comfortable living area and two bedrooms, both with en-suite bathrooms.

The main apartment, which has a total area of about 450 sq. m, is spread over three levels and has multiple entrances. Accessing it from the exclusive courtyard, where you can spend free time or convivial moments, you enter the living room, which extends as far as the eye can see and in which stands

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a large double-sided fireplace. On the same floor there is a kitchen, two bathrooms and a bedroom with a gable roof. Upstairs there is a large living area with fireplace, a bedroom with en-suite bathroom, a second spacious bedroom overlooking the porch and a second bathroom. In the basement, there is a study, a cellar, large utility rooms and a hallway from which you access the pool.

The real estate includes a third unit, separated from the first two, which could easily be used as an outbuilding for guests or as accommodation for service personnel. It consists of a living area with kitchenette, bedroom and bathroom. The property has a swimming pool set in the vineyards with views of the countryside. The property has recently been the subject of careful renovation, using materials of great value. www.engelvoelkers.com/siena

San Gimignano, the Medieval Manhattan This agricultural company is located near San Gimignano, in a panoramic and hilly position, and specialises in the organic production of Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG white wine, DOC and DOCG red wines, grappa, extra virgin olive oil and saffron. The property includes some carefully restored ancient buildings and about 8 ha. of land divided into a vineyard (2.5 ha.), an olive grove (1.3 ha.), woodland and bush pasture. A beautiful swimming pool (8 Ă— 16 m) overlooking the famous towers and vineyards completes the property. The farmhouse (450 sq. m) is surrounded by a park of 1,000 sq. m and is spread over two floors above ground, as well as a basement (56 sq. m) which houses the thermal power plant, two rooms used for storage and one bathroom.

On the ground floor there is a large living room with vaulted ceilings divided into four areas by brick arches, a kitchen and two utility rooms.

In the sleeping area, there are four bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms, a panoramic terrace and a porch. On the upper floor, there is a large living

room with fireplace, five more bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms and two terraces with views of San Gimignano and the surrounding countryside.

On the hillside and surrounded by a private courtyard, there is a beautiful 90 sq. m barn consisting of a large living room with separate kitchen, two bedrooms, one with en-suite bathroom, another bathroom, a storage room and a terrace with pergola. Near the barn there is a lovely 65 sq. m hut surrounded by a private garden and comprising of a living room with fireplace, kitchen, double bedroom, bathroom and a small study. The agricultural shed (48 sq. m) is located near the vineyard. The stone buildings are all in Tuscan colonic style with wooden-beamed ceilings and terracotta floors. The hut and the barn can be purchased separately from the large cottage with swimming pool. www.engelvoelkers.com/siena

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Over 600 of the world’s finest

Luxury villas & ski chalets

Firefly COLLECTION

“

I am delighted to present the Firefly Collection – the finest collection of luxury villas and ski chalets, personally selected from around the world.

Tim Latimer Founder

”

Clockwise from top: Chalet Grace,

Zermatt; Chalet Gentianes, Courchevel; Chalet Edelweiss, Courchevel; Chalet la Tene, Val d’Isere.

www.Firefly-Collection.com

Tel: +44 (0)203 432 7784

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VILLA OLIVO Beautifully designed and newly renovated, Villa Olivo is an unrivalled Italian villa overlooking the stunning coastline of the Adriatic Sea. A hilltop retreat offering year-round exceptional luxury, 5* services and authentic experiences in the heart of Le Marche. Set amidst rolling hills, olive groves and ancient vineyards and just 10 minutes from the coast, Villa Olivo has been beautifully crafted to the highest standards, with 6 King-size ensuite bedrooms, its own spa, gym, infinity pool and over 600 square metres of living space.

The ultimate Italian escape - experience a unique retreat where luxury meets leisure. Enjoy an exclusive holiday where our concierge team create the perfect home-from-home atmosphere for you and your guests.

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