issue #157//NEW ZEALAND’S PREMIER ADVENTURE MAGAZINE SINCE 1981 new zealand
dec 09-jan 10/where actions speak louder than words//
Issue 157 DEC09/JAN10 NZ$7.90 incl. GST AUST $6.90 incl. GST USA $9.99 CANADA $9.99
//water KIWIS STAND UP
Outer
protection
for your inner © 2008 Lowepro - Photo: Mitch Rice
vision.
SlingShot 350 fits most 15.4" widescreen notebooks in a padded compartment
The SlingShot AW Series
Ergonomic sling strap distributes weight evenly; tuck-away stability strap holds the bag steady during active use.
Unique design enables the SlingShot to rotate from back to front quickly, and easily access camera and lenses without removing the bag.
Patented All Weather Cover™ offers maximum protection against rain, dust and sand
Available in 4 sizes: 100, 200, 300, and 350. SlingShot 350 shown with laptop pocket.
On Thin Ice – Global warming is endangering the habitat of the majestic Polar Bears, who are losing the very ground they walk on. Since its inception, Lowepro has actively supported environmental organizations.
Distributed in New Zealand by: MACALISTER Email: sales@macalister.co.nz | Ph: 09 573 1650 | www.macalister.co.nz To learn more, including recent efforts on behalf of Polar Bears, visit www.lowepro.com.
water sports issue
//157
Cover: Jeremy stephenson in teahupo’o Photo by tim mckenna
//where actions speak louder than words//DEC-JAN 2010
Editor’s note no mercy
“No mercy, no power, but its own controls it. Panting and snorting like a mad battle steed that has lost its rider, the masterless ocean overruns the globe.” ~ Herman Melville, Moby Dick
Editor Steve Dickinson Ph: (09) 428 3182 (09) 428 2443 | Mob: 027 577 5014 p.media@xtra.co.nz Advertising sales Lisa Young Ph: (09) 428 3043 lisa@adventuremagazine.co.nz art director Nina Blackburn Ph: (09) 428 3046 p.media_design@xtra.co.nz Web Guru Eric Baars, erik@erikbaars.com PROOF READER Wendy Ratter Contributing Writers and Photographers Victoria Stuart, Jeremy Cronin, Tim McKenna, Chris McLennan, Bo Bridges, Angie Belcher, Andy Belcher, Jason Polacow, Dive!Tutukaka, Ben Brown, Archie Kalepa, Mark Stevenson, Mark Watson, Jeremy Stephenson. Distribution Gordon & Gotch, Ph (09) 979 3000
We are born from water, can’t live a day without it; crave it in the heat, curse it in the deluge. We fear being held under it and yet we elate on riding its ripples. Water in its many facets, from still lakes to mighty rivers, from glass like lagoons to raging storms, captivates, engages, mystifies, romances and seduces us all. In it, on it or under it, water is both a playground for fun and an arena for battle. A place to find solace, and a place to yell at the storm, a place to be at peace and a place to test you. Water is the mainstay of life; scientists search the universe for water for if you find water you find life, the two go hand in hand. As we crawled and slithered out
of the primeval puddles so we have returned constantly to that one element that we just can’t live without. In the same way we necessitate water to survive, it seems there is an added enjoyment, risk and need to make it our playground. In this aquatic issue Ben Brown shares the deep descents kayaking in Norway and Kiwis, Jeremy Stevenson and Campbell Farrell take on the giant waves of Teahupoo. We embrace the serenity of diving beneath the ocean surface and Andy and Angie Belcher retell the might and terror of a tsunami in Samoa. Windsurfing, diving, swimming, surfing, paddling if it gets wet you will find it in this issue. Enjoy. ~ Steve Dickinson
other publications Curl | Ski & Snow | Prime Times Publishers NZ Adventure magazine is published six times a year by: Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562 Whangaparaoa, New Zealand Ph (09) 428 3182 | Fax: (09) 428 2443 Email: p.media@xtra.co.nz Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped self-addressed envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of the material contained herein. Pacific Media publications are independently audited by Cleaver & Co chartered accountants
Careers in Adventure. • Ski/Snowboard Instructor Certificates • Avalanche Safety Certificates Stages 1 and 2 • Diploma in Outdoor Leadership and Management (Level 5) Year Two OR • Certificate in Outdoor Pursuits (Level 4) Exit: Year One
0800 762 786 www.otagopolytechnic.ac.nz Photo: Andy Thompson
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz//
//157 water sports issue
16 kiwis stand up 26 fish, fur and floatplanes 32 bo bridges, photographer 38 survivor samoa 40 southern exposure 46 explore the poor knights islands 50 whispers of norway 80 the ride of his life: grand canyon sup 88 swim with style 90 challenging the giants of the south regulars
//08 Just random //60 subscription //62 christmas gift guide //78 nikon photo competition //96 classifieds
Teahupoo Photo by Bo Bridges
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz//
Jimmy Chin
| Meru, India | Mammatus Jacket | Photo: Renan Ozturk
+ thenorthface.com.au Visit www.thenorthface.com.au or for stockist information call 0800 805 806
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above: Ben Brown threads the needle on the Lake to Lake drop, Eksingedale valley. Photo by Steve Fisher. right: Steve Fisher runs the first descent of the natural bridge drop Photo by Ben Brown window of opportunity for a run. After spending the morning scouting we decided to give it a crack and managed to run 3 of the 4 rapids on offer. It was typical of the water we had found in Norway â&#x20AC;&#x201C; high volume, technical and demanding and proved to be a well worth the drive and a great climax for our show. We rounded out the trip by heading further up the valley from Polfossen and exploring a few of the tributaries. As we had come to expect in Norway these yielded even more great rapids and waterfalls. We burned the last of our film and that was a wrap. Shorter and shorter daylight hours coupled with dropping thermometers signalled the end of the season in Norway and our que
to head south for Oslo and on to warmer climes. Another tough yet very satisfying trip was behind us and Norway had lived up to all expectations. The constant search for new rivers and rapids to challenge ourselves against is what motivates many of us to paddle and Norway is one of the finest spots on the paddle to do this. A pristine environment coupled with very friendly and accommodating locals makes Norway one of my most favourite destinations. With so much whitewater on offer there and such a huge land mass to explore I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to head back to this promised land and seek out more of her amazing whitewater. n
The Norwegians are very proud of their wilderness areas and Norway is home to over twenty national parks. Travelling through Norway is very unique however. ADVERTORIAL
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58//WHERE
ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#157
Fast Find PLB
Distress beacon helps New Zealand man to safety
A walker in the Ruahine mountain range in New Zealand was rescued on Sunday after he activated his Fast Find Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) to alert search and rescue services to his plight. The man was starting a 10 day trip when he fell into a hole filled with water and snow. He quickly became cold, disorientated and activated his Fast Find PLB. The Fast Find sent a signal via satellite to Rescue Co-ordination Centre in Wellington, which dispatched the Lowe Corporation Rescue Helicopter. According to the Hawkes Bay Today newspaper, Pilot Brent Williams said the man had been proactive in using his personal locator beacon. The man had bunkered down in his sleeping bag while he waited for help. â&#x20AC;&#x153;He felt pretty bad about using the beacon but thought he had better,â&#x20AC;? Mr Williams said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;He couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel his feet when we got there.â&#x20AC;? Mr Williams said the Fast Find 406MHz beacon had made finding the man easy. The Fast Find 211 is the smallest PLBs available on the market, and can be carried in a pocket or backpack. It can be used anywhere in the world providing it is registered by the buyer before it gets used. The distress signal is relayed by the COSPAS-SARSAT international government Search and Rescue satellite system, decoded and then relayed to the national authority which will co-ordinate the rescue, in this case Wellington, NZ. The climber had bought the Fast Find from Aviation Safety. n
//157 subscribe now and be in to win!
Of course I want to subscribe to New Zealand Adventure Magazine and be in the draw to win a Starboard SUP package worth $1675: One School Edition SUP 10’x34 1 x Starboard Tuffskin Trainer paddle One year subscription, that’s 6 issues for $42, delivered free! Two year subscription, that’s 12 issues for $84, delivered free! SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION Is this a gift subscription?
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60//WHERE
ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#157
Probably the most significant breakthrough in SUP since the paddle was introduced. Extremely stable at 34 inches wide, it provides stability for a beginner to paddle through the most turbulent white water or other difficult conditions. It has reasonably good glide and it turns on dime while paddling. The extra nose kick makes it almost impossible to nosedive, catching even the smallest white water waves with ease. The stability makes it a breeze to paddle into waves, with the BIG surprise being that this board actually rips in waves. It¹s truly a fantastic wave board for most conditions, and is surely the most versatile wave dedicated SUP board ever shaped.
Starboard SUP package worth $1675 www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 61
merry christmas
Welcome to our Christmas Gift Guide, inside you will find some great gift ideas from Innovations, footwear, family tents, camping gear and sleeping bags, check out our retailers websites for more fantastic products. Have a safe and happy Christmas.
CURVE//KEYPOD//$49.95 Stop worrying about losing your keys in the water or some shady car park character watching where you hide them. Keypod keeps your keys/alarm tag secure in a portable key safe which attaches externally to your vehicle with personal combination, no worries! www.curvesurf.co.nz 09 816 8369
SEVENTHWAVE//SURF ALL DAY VEST ‘2ND EDITION’ $299.00 SURF & HYDRATE Featuring a 2-litre removable bladder hydration system, pockets for a camera and energy bars, and made in NZ from Titanium-lined superstretch Yamamoto 2mm neoprene. This vest has it all! www.seventhwave.co.nz 0800 843928
KEEN//GRAND// $99.99 Sustainability has never looked better. Send a message with this innovative bag. Front lid Velcro closure with aluminium hook and loop security closure. It has an adjustable webbing strap. This bag brings a dose of green to your day. 100% Reclaimed Rice Paper. www.keenfootwear.co.nz jane@agi.co.nz
HIGH GEAR//AXIO MAX//$475.00 A multifunctional tool with everything you need for outdoor adventures. Features altimeter, barometer, compass, thermometer, time display, chronograph, data log and built-in alarms. Water resistant to 50m. 2 year warranty. www.tightlines.co.nz AIDE//VOID// $24.95 Void kit features: compact vacuum-sealing of bulky supplies; waterproof foilbacked plastic packaging; lightweight, resealable, waterproof zip-lock pouch; quickguide with essential lifesaving procedure and basic first aid steps. www.aideport.com info@aidesystem.com SPOT//FIND ME SPOT//$425.00 INCL GST An inexpensive GPS tracking and alerting device that requires an annual subscription of US$115.00 per annum for Alert, OK & 911 functions and US$49.00 for an additional optional tracking facility. For more info visit www. findmespot.net.nz or ring 09 4206079.
62//WWW.ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
SONY//SX40 MEMORY STICK HANDYCAM//$549.95 Record video reliably in the most rugged conditions to 4GB of internal flash memory, or expand it with a Memory Stick on this ultra-compact camcorder. Features SteadyShot Image Stabilisation. www.sony.co.nz
PATAGONIA//MAUI JANE AIR (WS)//$159.00 Introducing the superlightweight and stylish Maui Jane Air. The perforated upper and polyester air-mesh lining are highly breathable. The high-abrasion EVA outsole is the ultimate lightweight platform. www.nevada-sport.co.
LED LENSER//H5 HEADLAMP//$55.60 Lightweight and bright, this is a great all purpose headlamp. Features include adjustable focus from flood to spot beam, red safety light at the back, water resistant. 10 year warranty. www.tightlines.co.nz
LIFEVENTURE//THERMAL MUG//$39.95 Double walled stainless steel thermal mug. Will keep your drink hot for up to 6 hours. Spill proof with twist top. Available in 6 colours. www.tiroran.co.nz | P 0800021732
CAMELBAK//KIDS KIDS STAINLESS STEEL BOTTLE .4L //$49.99 Kid-sized, fun and easy to use and clean this bottle is ready for any adventure. Features a simplified stem and straw that are child safe. www.extremegear.co.nz
SONY//WX1 CYBERSHOT//$749.95 Featuring Sweep Panorama mode, ExmorR for performance in low light, and 10 frames per second shooting, the WX1 is the ultimate compact camera to take on your next adventure. www.sony.co.nz
TIMEX//EXPEDITION DIVE STYLE CHRONOGRAPH T49799//$429.00 Dive performance combined with chronograph functionality provides ultimate precision. Designed to be shock resistant and offer dependable water resistance to 200m. Available from selected Rebel Sport and other Timex specialist stores. Call 0508 566 300 for further details.
SONY//X SERIES VAIO//$2399.95 At only 655g and 13.9mm thin, this laptop packs in a lot for its size, including Windows 7 and up to 3.5hr battery life - it’s the perfect travel companion. www.sony.co.nz SONY//W SERIES SPORTS WALKMAN//$149.95 Perfect for jogging or the gym, this compact MP3 Walkman fits snugly around your head, so you never have to worry about wires again. www.sony.co.nz
SEAQUEST//PEARL I3 BCD//$1649.99 The Pro QDi3 is the first Seaquest BCD that incorporates i3 technology. By pulling up on the streamlined i3 inflator lever you move upwards, (filling the BCD with air) and by pushing down on teh i3 inflator lever you move down, (dumping air from the 2 flat, oneway e-valves). NICE! 09 4158350 | sales@aquanaut.co.nz www.aquanaut.co.nz
KEEN//IRVING// $99.99 Eco-awareness takes a colourful turn with the spacious Irving tote from KEEN. Reclaimed rice paper is woven in a way that makes every bag unique. Comfortable handles equip you for city exploration. www.keenfootwear.co.nz jane@agi.co.nz
SOUL TRAMPERS™// POTPAL™//$35.99 - $47.95 NEW lightweight multipurpose cooking pot storage device, which protects, dries, stores, separates utensils, and converts into a handy heat-mitt for all outdoor cooking pursuits. www.soultrampers.com (+61) 2 8003 3483
MAPTOASTER TOPO/NZ// MAPS-GPS//$225.00 Always know exactly where you are with MapToaster Mobile/NZ topo maps of New Zealand for your Garmin mapping GPS. www.maptoaster.com support@maptoaster.com
// 63
camelBak//stainless steel Better Bottle .75l//$59.99 the camelBak Better Bottle goes stainless. with the Big Bite valve in our revolutionary cap, camelBak has reenergized the reusable bottle category. www.extremegear.co.nz maptoaster topo/nZ From $119 whether you are a recreational or business user, maptoaster topo/nz will provide the topographical maps you need, on your computer. new topo50 and topo250 nztm maps available from late october. www.maptoaster.com support@maptoaster.com
high gear // terrapod//$275.00 Handheld weather station, featuring digital altimeter, compass, barometer, thermometer and built-in Led flashlight. Can be clipped to gear or set in upright position on flat surface. 2 year warranty. www.tightlines.co.nz
leatherman//Freestyle //$99.00 Full-size pliers and knife blade weighing less than 128 grams. the size means you can carry it everywhere and use it anytime. 25 year warranty. www.tightlines.co.nz camelBak//hands Free adaptor//$29.99 converts all sizes of the camelBak Better Bottle into a hands-free hydration system includes a Pure Flow tube, ergo Hydrolock and Big Bite valve. www.extremegear.co.nz
kannad//Xs3 406mhZ plB $899.00 one of the most robust well engineered 406mHz PLB with imbedded gPS. this is one of the few PLB’s that will also float upright without the antenna in the water. For more info ring 09.4206079 or visit www. aviationsafety.co.nz
kiwi camping//odyssey tent light & Fan (new For 09)//$49.99 an all-in-one portable fan and lighting unit with tilting Led light, hanging hook and base stand so you can direct the light to exactly where you need it. Fan and light can be used simultaneously or separately. www.kiwicamping.co.nz
Freecom//tough drive sport the toughest and sportiest drive there is! a durable, shock resistant hard drive with turbo uSB 2.0, password protection and outdoor active sports design. www.freecom.co.nz
64//www.adventuremagazine.co.nz
mund socks// kilimanjaro//$29.95 Your feet will thank you with mund Kilimanjaro socks. The Coolmax® fibre technology wicks sweat away to keep you cool, dry and comfortable. extra padding provides protection at pressure points.
the north Face//BullFrog 23// $659.95 Freestanding front-entry 2 person backpacking tent for three season use. dac Featherlite™ nSL aluminium poles using reverse-combi technology, Silicone flysheet, Colour-coded flysheet attachment, Durable polyurethane window, cold-crack tested to -60°F, Stowable full zip door, compression stuffsack included. www.thenorthface.com.au or Free phone 0800 805 806
led lenser//h7 headlamp//$135-150 Led Lenser’s premier headlamp. incredible beam range of 170m. the dimmer switch allows light to be varied from 160 lumens down to low light. adjustable focus. water-resistant. 10 year warranty. www.tightlines.co.nz
kiwi camping//kahuna chair (new For 09)//$139.99 a sturdy folding chair with polyester padded seat and backrest. Features a generous seat size, reinforced steel frame and streamline, solid aluminium arm rests. Size: 64cmw x 52cmd (seat) x 43/94cmH. max. weight capacity: 130kg www.kiwicamping.co.nz
camelbak//kiDS bpa free bOttle .4l//$39.99 Kid-sized, fun and easy to use and clean this bottle is ready for any adventure. Features a simplified stem and straw that are child safe. www.extremegear.co.nz
lifeVenture//tiV flaSk//frOm $44.95 TIV Flasks are double walled stainless steel, heated to 600 degrees before sealing to creat a genuine vacuum. Will keep drinks hot for up to 8 hours or cold for up to 24 hours. 3 sizes – 500,750,1000ml www.tiroran.co.nz | P 0800021732
littlelife//runabOut tODDler DaySack//$69.95 Toddler daysack with parents safety strap. Fantastic outdoor fun daysacks in a range of styles and colours. Safety strap clips on to prevent runaways. www.tiroran.co.nz | P 0800021732
keen//Waimea h2//$139.90 The lightweight outsole provides the right amount of support and traction control. Patented toe protection lets you go from beach to rocky shore to the poolside with ease. The cushioned EVA footbed features odour-reducing Aegis Microbe Shield®. www.keenfootwear.co.nz jane@agi.co.nz
leatherman//Super tOOl 300//$199.00 The NEW Supertool is better than ever! Larger pliers are the strongest Leatherman has ever produced providing serious torque. Replaceable wire cutters. 19 tools in total. 25 year warranty. www.tightlines.co.nz
timex//irOnman elite chrOnOGraph t5k350//$499.00 Stunning analogue timepiece with strong design reinforcements alluding to the rich Timex Ironman heritage. Constructed of durable Stainless steel and offering reliable water resistance to 100m. Available from selected Rebel Sport and other Timex specialist stores. Call 0508 566 300 for further details.
camelbak//pODium bOttle//$19.99 The New CamelBak Podium Bottle incorporates Jet Valve, a revolutionary self-sealing valve into a taste-free bottle with a high flow rate. www.extremegear.co.nz
marmOt//precip Jacket (m+W)//$299.00 Reliable, value-oriented, full-function rainwear for backcountry and urban travellers alike. PreCip® Dry Touch Technology – waterproof/breathable, 100% seam taped, full visibility roll-up hood with integral collar, PitZips™ , Pack Pockets™. www.marmotnz.co.nz
Oztrail//Deluxe GazebO//$524.95 This 3m x 3m scissor action gazebo is our biggest seller. Its quick to put up, has a 300 denier polyester canopy and is one of the strongest frame options in NZ. Great for an extra room, family BBQ or a mobile HQ at your next event. www.oztrail.co.nz – select camping furniture / gazebos to check out the full range.
curVe//chanGebaG//$49.95 Get changed on the open mat, then draw into a waterproof bag to contain your sopping wetsuit and gear. Super convenient and protects / prolongs the life of your wetsuit. Summer essential! www.curvesurf.co.nz 09 816 8369
camelbak// Octane xct 2.0l//$129.99 Perfect for the minimalist Cross-Country Trail Running/Biking adventure of 2+ hours with room to stash gear and gels/bars on the run. www.extremegear.co.nz
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// //65
MerreLL//WaterprOOF tOrO//$189.00 A men’s water sandal that stays low and lean and offers a convertto-slide option by detaching the padded rear foot straps. www.nevada-sport.co.
MerreLL//MerceD//$199.00 For women who want a sandal with wild water hold down without bulk, along with quick conversion to a slide. For extra comfort the sandal has Merrells exclusive Air Cushion built in. www.nevada-sport.co.
teva//WOMens WestWater //$169.90 The Westwater women’s Mary Jane style shoe with a quick drying combination lycra / stretch mesh upper. Stylish, comfortable and just right for your next excursion....anywhere. (09) 3731460
Keen//venice//$249.90 From the beach scene to mountain streams, the Venice sport sandal from KEEN adapts to your surroundings. Exceptional traction on mixed terrain, this performance sandal includes an open strapping system for outstanding ventilation. Grippy outsole gives you a lighter ride. www.keenfootwear.co.nz jane@agi.co.nz
Keen//WaiMea//$129.90 Explore every facet of the beach with the Waimea sandal from KEEN. Patented toe protection lets you go from beach to rocky shore to street with ease. The Waimea H2 that is made with rice paper upper is woven in a way that makes every pair of sandals unique. www.keenfootwear.co.nz jane@agi.co.nz
66//WWW.ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
MerreLL//treMOr cOnvertaBLe (Ms)//$139.00 A price pointed water sandal that converts to a slide simply by removing its padded dual backstays. Rugged Merrell outdoor sole unit. www.nevada-sport.co.
MerreLL//siren GinGer //$219.00 A rugged out- door sandal that can take all the knocks of the outdoors whilst still looking very feminine. Looks as good on the street as in the outdoors or at the local café. www.nevada-sport.co.
pataGOnia//shOre thinG (Ws)//$149.00 The comfort of a compression-molded 20% recycled footbed wrapped in cork that adapts to the shape of your foot; the elegance of a soft full-grain leather strap. www.nevada-sport.co.nz
teva//WOMens ventura cOrK 2//$199.90 This Teva sandal is sleek but still comfortable for all day, everyday wear. Waterproof leather uppers and feminine detailing like an embossed leather footbed with colourful stitching makes this a summer staple. (09) 3731460
Keen//venice h2//$219.90 The Venice H2 sport sandal provides exceptional traction on mixed terrain; this performance sandal includes an open strapping system for outstanding ventilation. A streamlined, grippy outsole features multi-directional lugs with razor siping for exceptional traction control. www.keenfootwear.co.nz jane@agi.co.nz
Keen//WaiMea//$139.90 Discover the meaning of kicking back with the Waimea H2 sandal. The sporty style features patented toe protection and a lightweight rubber outsole. The EVA midsole absorbs shock as you stride toward the beach chair that’s calling your name. www.keenfootwear.co.nz jane@agi.co.nz
teva//Men’s Open tOachi//$199.90 This amphibious sport sandal offers incredible traction with Spider Rubber technology and Teva’s patent-pending Drain Frame technology while still allowing your toes breathing room. Great as a high end performance water sandal. (09) 3731460
teva//WOMen’s Open tOachi//$199.90 This amphibious sport sandal offers incredible traction with Spider Rubber technology and Teva’s patent-pending Drain Frame technology while still allowing your toes breathing room. Great as a high end performance water sandal. (09) 3731460
Keen//neWpOrt h2//$219.90 Order up some adventure with a side of water in the Newport H2. Ready for adverse conditions, the razor sipped outsole and 3mm lugs provide excellent traction. The washable polyester webbing upper features the odour-reducing Aegis Microbe Shield®. KEEN patented toe protection lets you follow any path, whether to rivers or trails. www.keenfootwear.co.nz jane@agi.co.nz
ahnu//tiLDen ii (W)//$199.00 Great sandal for summer and water activities. Hydrophobic mesh upper lined with charred bamboo for natural anti-microbial and wicking properties, single-pull lace system, lightweight EVA midsole for excellent shock absorption. www.allsports.co.nz
Keen//Whisper//$219.90 The Whisper sandal from KEEN can manage any water-filled day. The quick draw elastic cord lacing system adjusts to a comfortable and secure fit. The washable polyester upper features the odour-reducing Aegis Microbe Shield®. The foot-cushioning EVA moulded footbed provides comfort on the go. www.keenfootwear.co.nz jane@agi.co.nz
teva//WOMen’s DOzer//$179.90 The popular Dozer Sport Sandal offers all purpose, all terrain toeprotection. Athletically sculpted with a durable synthetic upper provides full foot protection. This sandal is well suited for travel. (09) 3731460
teva//Men’s OMniuM//$219.90 The men’s Omnium Sport Sandal is versatile enough for all of your adventures, as it provides additional coverage for protection, quick-drying materials to keep you comfortable and Teva-tested Spider Rubber® to keep you on your feet. (09) 3731460
Keen//neWpOrt//$249.90 Go back to the basics with the sandal that started it all, the Newport from KEEN. The secure fit strap design adjusts for a comfortable fit. The rubber outsole features a multi-directional lug pattern and razor siping for the right traction over wet and dry surfaces. The metatomical footbed conforms to your foot’s shape for personalized comfort that’s way beyond ordinary. www.keenfootwear.co.nz jane@agi.co.nz
ahnu//reYes (M)//$199.00 Rugged closed toe sandal for all day comfort in the outdoors. Quick-dry spacer mesh upper, lined with charred bamboo and recycled polyester for natural anti-microbial and wicking properties, single-pull lace system, 4mm lungs to provide traction and durability on uneven surfaces. www.allsports.co.nz
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that Directly on the migratory path of a number of species, a trip is often accompanied by both Common and Bottlenose dolphins and there are several species of whales, including orca, minke, Bryde’s and pilot whales that feed off the coast. The complex underwater landscape is a unique environment. Subtropical and temperate marine life coexists with extraordinary diversity, beauty and density. Over 125 species of fish share this environment with soft corals, encrusting sponges, vibrant anemones, ecklonia kelp forests, mating sting rays, visiting pelagic manta rays, gorgonian fans and myriad other life forms. Having been a Marine Reserve for over 20 years the fish behaviour continues regardless and they interact quite happily with snorkellers, divers and swimmers. From atop a hill on the Tutukaka Coast, the cliffs shout brightness, the green foliage combined to create a cut-out silhouette that looks like fallen knight, his feet facing north. Some say Captain Cook passed by in 1769, and named this image after a popular breakfast dish it reminded him of, similar to French toast. Regardless of the islands looking like chunks of bread with topping dripping off the top, their bounty is undeniable. Plant species here suffer from a phenomenon known as island gigantism. The leaves of plants are broader, larger and glossier than their counterparts on the mainland. Coastal tussock, ice plants, grasses and flax grab footholds on the rock faces where they can. The endemic Poor Knights lily, Xeronema
calistemon has a succulent flax-like leaf, and the most amazing crimson flowers that resemble a giant red bottlebrush. You can see them hanging from the tops of outcrops, and the distance belies their size. Landing on these islands is strictly controlled, reserved only for those with special permits, granted for scientific use that will directly benefit the islands themselves. I have been fortunate enough to land on the island twice; once as part as a weeding party with the Department of Conservation, and once at the invitation of the local iwi, Ngati wai, when they undertook a spiritual returning. There are Australasian Gannet colonies, breeding grounds of rare seabirds including ternlets, and Buller’s shearwater. The only nesting place in the world for the tens of thousands of Buller’s shearwater that fly in from North America and share their burrow and eggs with the over 1000 tuatara that are resident. Bellbirds, native hawk, native parrot, native cuckoo and kingfishers create a birdsong that makes it easy to imagine what New Zealand would have sounded like in far gone days. There seems to be a special “X” factor and locals who are passionate about this place, seem to pass on the special feeling as you hear the tumultuous and tragic Maori history that makes this place so spiritual. Snorkeling and sightseeing aboard Perfect Day; trips depart Tutukaka daily at 11am - 4pm. Diving trips depart daily at from 8.30am; contact Poor Knights Dive Centre 0800 288 882. n
The Waikato was the first Leander class frigate to be purpose sunk in New Zealand, and set the trend for the others to follow. She is lying in 28 metres of water, listing to port and still upright, with entry and exit holes designed to give divers an ultimate penetration dive. With her twin gun turret and propellor still attached, she is an awesome dive. She was scuttled in a time of 2 minutes 46 seconds.
REPLACING LUCK
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//157 //norway/kayaking/
whispers of norway: Kayaking paradise Endless Fjords, pristine alpine wilderness, breathtaking scenery and snowmelt fed rivers tumbling in all directions on their journey to the sea. One could be forgiven for thinking this was a description of New Zealand. It could not be geographically further from the truth however and is in fact what you can expect to encounter on a kayaking adventure in Norway. Add to this, towering waterfalls, steep mountain creeks, and huge crystal clear rapids and you have the recipe for an adventure kayakers paradise. Whispers of Norway as a kayaking destination had been filtering through paddling circles during the early nineties when teams of gung-ho German paddlers had ventured there in search of new rivers to paddle. Over the ensuing years Norway segments began to appear on the latest and greatest kayaking films to hit the market showcasing cutting edge extreme kayaking on breathtaking rivers, all amongst an almost as breathtaking scenic backdrop. Norway has now become a ‘must do’ on any serious kayakers wish list and every spring sees more and more paddlers heading to the hills of Norway in search of a taste of her now legendary whitewater. Norway’s kayaking season begins in April and runs through to the end of September although either end of the season is only for the brave as temperatures are less than ideal for immersing oneself in cold water! Due to Norway’s proximity to the Arctic Circle the Midnight Sun provides light for twenty-four hours a day from 20 May to 22 July meaning that time on the water can really be maximised and it is not uncommon to run multiple rivers in a
single day. This makes sleep come significantly easier when camping in 24hour sunlight! Initial impressions of Norway on arrival always seem to draw immediate comparisons with New Zealand. The landscape is very reminiscent of Fiordland, albeit a little more accessible. The Norwegians are very proud of their wilderness areas and Norway is home to over twenty national parks. Travelling through Norway is very unique however. The mountainous landscape does not lend itself to building roads and there are tunnels everywhere. Norway opened the world’s longest road tunnel in 2000, with a length of 24.5 km’s it even features immense caverns that simulate sunrise— a unique approach to help refresh drivers, or give them a chance to pull over and rest. Another one of the unavoidable features of driving in Norway is the cost of gas! The Norwegian Kroner is an extremely strong currency and filling the tank can be a very painful experience. Despite this, the local Statoil – Norway’s largest petrol chain, always proves to be a popular hang out for visiting kayakers, this
We had some unfinished business with this river as the previous year we had attempted a run at far too high a flow and one of our party had, had a near drowning experience. this photo: Shane Raw avoiding broken legs on the final drop of the Sogndalsaelva triple drop. Photo by Ben Brown www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 51
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due to the fact that they offer endless free coffee with the purchase of one of their branded thermos mugs! It is a common sight to see kayakers sifting in forecourts, sipping from small silver mugs and discussing the day’s action. I have been to Norway three times over the past few years and every trip there has left me marvelling at just how many awesome rivers there are. I think I could spend every season there for the rest of my life and still barely scratch the surface of what’s on offer. Whilst there is an abundance of paddling all over Norway, two small towns, Voss and Sjoa, have become the epicentres of kayaking there. This is mainly due to the fact that these towns are home to Norway’s largest commercial whitewater rafting operations and therefore tends to attract like-minded river folk. Voss is the largest centre of the two and was our first stop on my most recent adventure to Norway. This trip was a little different to others I had to Norway as there was the added pressure of having to film a TV show along the way. I teamed up with South Africans Steve Fisher and Shane Raw, along with the crew from Matchstick Productions to film an episode for Matchsticks Emmy award nominated show ‘Focused’. We hit Norway during the first week of August which is starting to get pretty late in the season. Needing to get as much footage in the ‘can’ as possible we immediately got to work. Levels in the area were low which meant that while most of the popular runs were done for the season, many of the lesser-known rivers, which are usually too high, were dropping into a paddleable range. We opened the account with a trip up the Eksingedale valley to check out the ‘lake to lake drop’, a three tiered slide combination linking two alpine lakes. There was no time for warming up on this trip – two paddle strokes off the plane I was bouncing down a very sporting rapid at high speed. Everyone had successful descents and it was great to get the first shots in the bag. Needing to gather as much footage as possible of big waterfalls we headed for one of the countries most popular rivers, The Raundelsaelva. The
Raundelsaelva has a number of different sections on it catering for all levels of kayaker. What we had in our sights was a 40-foot waterfall, ominously named ‘Nose breaker’ Falls. There is no hidden metaphor in the name ‘Nose breaker’, it got it’s name due to the fact that a long list of paddlers have had their noses unceremoniously smashed into the front of their boats whilst attempting a run. Levels for the waterfall were good but the lead in rapid was a little on the tricky side. A quick game of ro-sham-bo saw Shane make the first run. He hit his line nicely and disappeared into the maw, emerging a few seconds later having had his spray skirt imploded after being sent very deep. What was more concerning was Shane looked very disorientated and we quickly established that he had perforated one of his eardrums, which was affecting his balance. After getting him to the shore it was Steve and my turn to buck up. We both had good runs and were happy to have that one behind us! The Mjofjell section of the Raundelsaelva contains one of the most unique rapids in the world. The river has been diverted through a 200 meter man made tunnel so a rail line could be built across it. Inside the tunnel is a long, steep, slide that would make even the most experienced paddler look long and hard at it even if it weren’t going underground. Add a tunnel into the mix and it makes the rapid a very serious proposition! Obviously such a unique rapid would make a great addition to our show so with a little trepidation, one by one, we dropped in. It’s hard to describe what it’s like to paddle into a rapid that flows through a tunnel, seeing where you are going is very difficult and the roar of the water is reverberated off the walls. Is definitely is a relief to be fired out at the other end in one piece! Just below the Tunnel Drop is another 50-foot drop, Kittelbreaker Falls. The main line on the Falls looked as though it was on the low side making the pool at the bottom too shallow but we spied what looked like a possible line on the opposite bank. Closer inspection revealed a marginally runnable line that resembled a gutter! Doing our best impressions of gutter balls, we crashed our way down and got some great images with our slow motion film camera. To finish off our stay in Voss we headed to the Myrkaldaelva, one of
Inside the tunnel is a long, steep, slide that would make even the most experienced paddler look long and hard at it even if it weren’t going underground. Add a tunnel into the mix and it makes the rapid a very serious proposition! above: Ben Brown exits a long and tricky rapid deep in the Lower Rauma Photo by Steve Fisher Next spread: Shane Raw enters the first slide of the Lower Rauma, one of the most beautiful rapids on earth Photo by Ben Brown www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 53
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the most popular runs in the area amongst local paddlers. We had some unfinished business with this river as the previous year we had attempted a run at far too high a flow and one of our party had, had a near drowning experience. With levels at a far more manageable level we put on with a contingent of local boys and paddled one of the most awesome rivers ever. With numerous big slides and waterfalls all the way to a Fjord, it was a great way to end our time in Voss. The next stop as we headed north was the town of Sognadal at the head of Sognafjorden, Norway’s longest and deepest fjord. Whilst not renowned for it’s kayaking, this region is home to the Sogndalsaelva and her famous triple waterfall combo. The Norwegian kayaking bible describes the waterfalls of the Sogndalsaelva as a “gift from god” which probably goes someway to explaining what an amazing place it is. Hidden away in a deep gorge are three drops, one after another, increasing in size from 15 to 30 foot. Not to be taken lightly, these falls have seen their fair share of carnage, but reward those who seek them out with one of the best sections of whitewater in Norway. We had blue bird skies and blazing autumn sun for one of the highlight days of the trip. The Lower Rauma was one of our main goals for
trip. Located towards the west coast of the country, the Lower Rauma is a high volume section of river containing 10 difficult rapids that are all possible in a kayak. This is one of the most spectacular pieces of river I have ever seen and we were pretty excited unloading the boats at the put in. The first drop is a huge slide into a crystal clear pool, with a massive waterfall coming in from the side creating a permanent rainbow archway. It is real postcard stuff and a good indication to the quality of the rest of the run. We spent the best part of 8 hours descending the 6km section and managed to paddle all of the rapids with varying degrees of success! The lower Rauma truly is extreme kayaking at its finest and a river that will keep me coming back for more over and over again. With time running out we once again loaded up the vehicles and headed for Sjoa. The film crew felt we had enough shots for the show so it was time to start getting off the beaten track a little. We made a beeline to Strie Strommer, Norway’s largest kayak store, to get some local beta from owners Kay-Arne and Jon-Christen. They immediately pointed us in the direction of Polfossen. This section of rapids, despite being roadside, has rarely, if ever, been paddled. This is mainly due to the fact that river levels are normally too high however luckily for us there was a
above: Ben Brown dropping into the Myrkaldaelva, the Voss local run. Photo by Dan Campbell
//157 //Travel/america/alaska
Survivor Samoa words by Angie Belcher | photo by andy belcher
Nature is indiscriminate about who it takes. Neither wealth, prominence nor a life time of sanctimonious deeds are guarantee of survival. How else can you explain why I stand here in the aftermath of the Samoa tsunami fully clothed with most of my belongings? The person next to me has only has the clothes he stands in? And the person less than one kilometre away has no one and stands silently looking at the remains of his family...
We’d arrived at the Sea Breeze Resort on the south east coast of Samoa in the early hours of September 29th only to be awoken a few hours later by a long sequence of vibrating, shuddering and trembling. By the time our room started bucking and shaking we knew that this was more than the customary quaking we experience periodically in our home at Maketu. Leaping out of bed and clinging together in the doorway, Andy and I waited for what seemed like an age for stillness to come. When it did, we stayed in the doorway trying to register the enormity of what we had felt. Andy was certain a tsunami would follow. Pulling on clothes he set off to check out where we were (it had been too dark to see anything when we’d arrived) and to look for high ground. He didn’t get far. A glance at the reef told him all he needed to know. Water was racing back out to sea, falling over the lip of the reef in a cascade of white water. Meanwhile, convinced that nothing more would happen, I went about unpacking. I’d no sooner unzipped my bag when I heard Andy yelling frantically,
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“get out, get Out, tsunami, everyone get out. Ange, get out.” My reaction was instantaneous; grabbing my valuables bag I ran towards his voice aware that others were running and yelling alongside me. My legs were like lead and my chest hurt, I remember thinking...what if I have to help someone...will I be able to? It was like one of those dreams where you run and run and never actually get anywhere. Head down, watching the ground, I didn’t expect to crash heavily into anyone going the other way...but I did. It was Andy trying to return to the fale to retrieve his camera bag left on the single bed. “Forget them” I said, not waiting to see what he did. This was a dire situation and I wasn’t stopping for anyone, not even to moan about my sore head! The sight of a rental car already bobbing off into the outer ocean was enough to get him running back in the right direction until eventually, we stood on the top of a hill with about 30 others: tourists and staff, wet and dry, dressed and semi-dressed, all stunned into a state of disbelief. We watched speechless as a second, then third wave of dirty, brown, water
speed into the bay; a great, swirling, agitating, mass of water seizing as many of our possessions as it could. In spite of their own worries, the local Samoans drew us together, wrapping lava lava around those in shock and making sweet tea for others. When everyone was accounted for, Sea Breeze staff returned to the remaining fales collecting what they could find and carrying the wet, muddy loads of clothes to a local fale. There we women worked together, lost in our own thoughts, rinsing and ringing out clothes in the hope an owner would claim them. Andy returned to our fale and although the room had been totally washed by sea water, the double bed had miraculously been jammed under a corner of the single-bed, lifting it up. There, on the top of the bed was the only dry thing in the room, Andy’s camera bag! What joy. At midday we were transported by truck to Apia but four hours later we once again ran for high ground after a second tsunami warning. We’d been in Samoa for less than one day and were totally exhausted. Shaken and stirred,
we decided to rest for a few days then continue our journey to Savaii, Samoa’s largest island which had been spared the tsunami’s devastation. With more than 200 volcanic craters and lava fields which have run to the sea and harden to stone it was easy to understand why this dramatic landscape is so volatile. Savaii Lagoon Resort provided a peaceful place to soothe our wounds and take in all that had happened. The soulful singing resonating from local churches twice a day continued to reminded us of how lucky we were and how precious, and fickle, life really is. By the end of four days we were totally besotted with Savaii. Reluctantly, it was time to return to the main island of Upolo but, as if to remind us not to become too complacent, yet another tsunami warning sent us scampering to high ground. Our recuperation was undone with a single siren. Finally, with an “all clear” we continued our journey. This time we didn’t stop till we were home. Has this put us off Samoa? Never. I only wish we had discovered this very special Pacific destination years before. We will return. n www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 39
//157 travel/hawaii/windsurfing
Southern Exposure Text by Jason Polacow images by tim mckenna
With Hawaii in its off-season I decided to pack my surf and windsurf equipment and head down to the South Pacific islands to test some of the new 2010 range from JP/NP and also put to use some of the safety equipment that I have been developing. The use of safety equipment such as jet skies, safety sleds, flotation vests and suits has made a big impact on big wave surfing and sailing, opening up new doors and allowing athletes to push themselves further than ever before. I have purchased jet skies and safety sleds in places like Australia, Tahiti and Hawaii to make sure that when I arrive there, by mid afternoon I will be towing or windsurfing 15 to 20 foot waves with the reassurance that I have all the safety gear necessary to ensure a safe and fun day on the water. In some cases you might not get a chance to test your specialized equipment in a certain seasons due to limited surf conditions, so by having these sort of setups spread around the world it really increases your chances
of scoring large surf and thus being able to test all your gear effectively. For those of you who don’t know your history on how floatation came about into the surfing and windsurfing world here’s a little flash back. In the early days of riding big waves, people used nothing but a wetsuit, basically relying on experience and a bit of luck to get us through the day unscathed. As time went on and the level of performance rose we quickly realized we needed some floatation to help us survive those big wipe outs. A few surfers had started using floatation vests but there were mixed opinions regarding their worth. Some speculated that because of the buoyancy one would stay in the white water longer. Like throwing a beach ball in front of a rolling wave. It would just keep getting tumbled and tumbled.
If you manage to get hit the wrong way by a 15-foot lip at Teahupoo you could quite easily be taking a trip to the hospital. Astronomical mathematical figures start playing a role when you’re talking about the volume of water that’s getting picked up and slammed onto the reef. MAIN PHOTO: Jason Polakow, always on the lookout to try some new stuff in the waves.
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As time went on, we quickly realized that this was not the case and the general consensus of most big waves riders was to wear some form of flotation especially in the case of being knocked unconscious or drowning. The victim could at least return to the surface for possible revival. It was not until the start of the millennium that windsurfers started looking into safety equipment and the possible benefits in enhancing performance. In the early stages of experimentation with floatation we simply wore a life jacket over a harness. It did the job, adding floatation but it was bulky, therefore restricting performance. The development of a flotation vest incorporated with a built-in harness amalgamated these two devices, freeing up movement and allowing for better performance. By the start of the new century companies had already started producing this combination of harness/jacket and a lot of the elite windsurf clan jumped at the hot new product. The next step was the development of the floatation suit. Floatation suits have been around for quite some time predominantly used in water skiing but never in the surfing world. Initial prototypes were restrictive, until the bands of floatation material were strategically placed throughout the wetsuit allowing for maximum flexibility. The bulk of the floatation was distributed around the entire body, making the suit extremely thin and comfortable to wear. This allowed for almost effortless movement making a big jump in safety and pushing performance to a higher level. Anyway, enough of the history lesson! With these advancements being made in the areas of protection and safety, dangers are still obvious, especially when it starts getting big and especially when you’re tackling waves like Teauhpoo. If you manage to get hit the wrong way by a 15-foot lip at Teahupoo, you could quite easily be taking a trip to the hospital. Astronomical mathematical figures start playing a role when you’re talking about the volume of water that’s getting picked up and slammed onto the reef. Other factors are the super shallow and razor sharp reefs. You really have to watch the way you wipe out if you can. I have seen people come up totally bloody from head to toe and others rushed to hospital. It’s a daunting feeling sitting in the channel so close to the wave, putting on your wet suit while you’re watching some poor soul getting scraped off the reef and ferried to the beach. I was driving the jetski this year in July, sitting in the channel, watching as it got bigger and bigger. A 12 to 15 foot set came through and the few surfers that were in the lineup just started scrambling for the outside. One of the guys was a little too far in and had to duck dive the wave as it barreled over him. In all other circumstances he would have been fine but Teauhpoo is a different animal. As he punched through the lip of the wave, he must have thought he was ok, until the wave just sucked him backwards and over the falls. This is the worst way to wipe out as the lip can slam you into the sharp reef where
above: Jason Polakow being towed in at Teahupoo right: Jason Polakow putting his equipment to the test in French Polynesia
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you could easily die if you’re unlucky. I immediately drove the ski to the impact zone to pick him up. He popped up almost where he had gone down and I was fortunate enough to get to him before the next wave came rolling in. He was shaken up and lucky enough to be ok. This year’s assault on Teauhpoo was a game of patience; I had a great system this year when it came to maximizing my efficiency on the water, especially considering that this particular swell only lasted 12 hours. I would tie my equipment to a nearby buoy when the wind was too light, switching to tow
surfing until I could see a gust of wind coming down the coast usually indicated by a forming rainbow upwind of the break. I usually had about 15 to 20 minutes to switch back to my windsurf equipment and try to catch a wave before the rain shower would shut the wind back down. Everything was working well apart from the fact that only about one 15-foot bomb came through every hour, making my situation very precarious. It could have been a day of torment, watching 15 foot waves pass me by time and time again, but fortunately, I was able to catch one or two bombs before the day was done.
I actually spent most of the time of this trip sitting on the back of the jetski with my windsurf equipment in hand, trying to catch a set wave. If you think it sounds easy then think again. Trying to time a 15-foot wave coming towards you as you jump off the back of the ski with only a few seconds to pump the sail before it starts barreling over the reef is no easy feat! It made me realize how close I was to getting no waves at all and no story to tell. By the end of the trip I was thinking of what I had learned with my equipment and what I could do to improve it. I learned that I should even go a bit shorter in my board length for thick super hollow waves and that I could maybe add a little more rocker so I could really stay in the pocket of the barrel. I actually would like to try a quad fin board at this spot next year as I think it would work really well in those types of waves. All the tow guys down here are using quad fin surfboards and they seem to work really well. I would also thicken my board slightly as the wind is usually on the light side down there. My sails were actually working really well down there. The new 2010 Zone sails are a lot softer than in previous years with more power down low. That and the fact that they are super light made it a lot easier for me to pump the sail a few times to get the speed I needed to catch these waves. At the end of the day riding big waves comes down to a simple equation. Risk versus adrenaline. How much are you willing to risk to achieve the adrenaline you want? It’s hard to find a balance between the two. Some people are satisfied with what they are given within themselves and others want to push that boundary a little further. I suppose the trick to this conundrum is finding a realistic medium between temptation and personal injury and being content with that. In the end it’s all about having fun, pushing the limits with your friends and knowing that you have done all you can to ensure a safe return back from the water. Some ideas lead to dead ends while others open up new doors of opportunity. The important thing is to keep testing gear, trying new concepts and keep pushing forward regardless of the setbacks. n
Trying to time a 15-foot wave coming towards you as you jump off the back of the ski with only a few seconds to pump the sail before it starts barreling over the reef is no easy feat! It made me realize how close I was to getting no waves at all and no story to tell. above: Jason Polakow on his trip to Teahupoo near Tahiti below: Jason getting ready for the next surfing session.
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//157 //new zealand/explore the poor knights islands
Explore the Poor Knights Islands words and photos by Dive! Tutukaka
Washed by warm currents sweeping down from the Coral Sea, the Poor Knights Islands are ever present on the horizon of most of the North East coast of Northland, and the easiest harbour by which to access them is Tutukaka. Although the trip will only take a little over 35 minutes, it is a world away as you venture out to this “Middle Earth in the Middle of the Ocean”. The islands are an internationally recognized icon, up for World Heritage Status and 23km off the Tutukaka Coast where the island’s 11 million year old volcanic origins provide myriad spectacular drop offs, walls, caves, arches and tunnels, all inhabited by an amazing array of underwater life. Isolated from the mainland for many thousands of years, they are the remnants of ancient volcanoes that erupted in the Pacific Ring of Fire.
Below the water, for 800 metres around the islands, is a marine reserve. Above, the islands are a nature reserve. Declared tapu by local Maori almost 140 years ago after a bloody massacre, the history is dramatic. Over 400 people use to live on the islands, with pa sites, marae, and terraced gardens. Left to nature, the archaeological remnants are the most pristine in New Zealand’s heritage, the only disturbance being the roots of the mighty pohutukawa canopy
Having been a Marine Reserve for over 20 years the fish behaviour continues regardless and they interact quite happily with snorkellers, divers and swimmers. www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 47
allocated a guide. Rick was a great character who also had a passion for photography and bears; needless to say we would get along well. A quick briefing and we headed out into the rain. With low tide approaching we were fortunate to find bears with young cubs digging for clams on the beach. They were bedraggled in the rain but that wasn’t going to stop them. Whilst the clams seemed a meagre morsel in proportion to the bears (I tried to imagine “filling up” on shelled peas, which probably have about the same food value for me) the bears seemed content with these small mouthfuls in a determined effort to fatten up for the long months of winter hibernation. As the tide finally turns the bears move to claim a spot near the river mouth where they will feed on the salmon that make their way through the shallows to enter the river. The amount the bears eat at this time plays a crucial role in their survival over the winter months. An average adult bear consumes around 40kg of salmon a day. In Alaska these bears can weigh up to 800kgs when they go into hibernation, this is considerably larger than the same species in any other region. They spend half their life sleeping and the other half eating salmon. With my own predilection to smoked salmon that was sounding pretty good! The salmon themselves are oblivious to their role in this food chain. They have returned to their birth stream after years at sea where they will readapt from salt water to fresh water, before making the slow and torturous journey up stream where they will spawn and eventually die at the head of the river. If they make it past the bears that is. Their entry over the sand flats makes for easy hunting for the bears as the fish are visible from a great distance. The bears sprint to launch themselves at the helpless salmon, making a great show with every catch they make. There is an obvious hierarchy amongst the bears for when the fishing is slow their territories are keenly challenged. Even though we were standing in a fully open area the female bear that had connected with my tripod had swerved to run toward a distant fish and passed very close to us without even acknowledging our presence. It got the adrenaline flowing but also strangely comforting to know that I didn’t rate in interest as highly as the salmon did to these hungry bears. We spent the next two days exploring this area with its open sand flats and grassy marshes. There were several groups of bears feeding in the vicinity so keeping a keen eye in all directions was important. These guys are huge with immense raw power and they deserve to be treated with total respect. It was then back to Anchorage, followed by a one hour spectacular flight over glaciers and the active, steaming volcanoes of the “Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes” to King Salmon, a place that makes Fiordland’s mosquitoes look tame by comparison. Fortunately (for me, not for the mosquitoes) a very short stop and we were into another of the numerous float planes and flying further into the wilderness to land on Naknek Lake at the head of the Alaskan Peninsula. Here I would be staying at Brooks Lodge in Katmai National Park. If you have seen any of the numerous and iconic images of salmon leaping waterfalls to land straight into a bear’s open mouth, the chances are it was taken here. During a two week period right: Bears fighting over fishing territory, Margot Creek
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top left to right: 1) Chris photographing bears on the beach at Silver Salmon Creek. 2) “Rust’s Flying Service” Anchorage. around 40 million salmon make their way up Brooks Falls and up to 80 bears come into the area to gorge on this banquet. As the number of salmon at the falls decrease the bears then spread out to the shallower streams in the surrounding areas where the fish remain easy to catch. When I arrive at Brooks Lodge the peak of the salmon run at the falls has passed and so after a quick briefing on bear awareness with a local fishing guide we head out a further 40 minutes by boat to the base of Mount Katolinat and Margot Creek. Here we don waders and hike upstream. With heavy scrub on both sides of the stream we have been instructed to make a lot of “human” noise, in fact the exact instructions were to sing and constantly call out “Hey bear!”. It felt pretty stupid initially but after seeing the large number of bears in the area it soon became second nature. Around every corner there would be groups of up to 4 or 5 bears standing in the stream waiting. As a run of fish came past there would be a huge commotion and flying teeth, claws and fur as they scrapped amongst themselves for the catch. It was an experience like no other! I spent the next 3 days working this area on my own, hiking up streams and waterfalls, singing my “Hey Bear” song and finding plenty of bears fishing and foraging in their natural habitat, my presence thankfully well beneath their notice. In the peak of the season Brooks Falls is very popular with sightseeing visitors and photographers. It is well organised with boardwalks and viewing areas and a large park ranger presence for the safety of not only the people but also the bears that come to feed here. But my time was up and from here it was another series of floatplane rides on to my last stop, Reboubt Bay Lodge at the entrance to Lake Clark Pass, a privately owned, boutique wilderness lodge where yet again I was spoilt with amazing food and wonderful surroundings. This 5 acre property sits within a 171,000 acre critical habitat area and it was here that I was going to be looking for Black Bears. These bears seemed to be more elusive and timid than their larger brown bear cousins. However I was told early on that looks were deceiving and they were just as dangerous, in fact maybe even more so because their size tended to give you a false sense of security. At Redoubt Bay I travelled on a small boat up little meandering streams and skirted the bay to find the black bear climbing trees, eating berries and feasting on spawning salmon. Their size certainly was deceiving but before I could get too carried away with my “aren’t they cute” fantasies their incredible hunting skills and wild nature put me right. These bears are opportunist hunters and will feed not only on salmon, fruit and berries but male black bears may occasionally prey on their own young, as well as other newborn animals or winter killed animals to be found when times are tough. The salmon were still running high during my visit, so the bears were
content feeding in this abundance and watching them fish in the small streams alongside fly fishermen and boating families was an extraordinary spectacle. All too soon it was time to say goodbye to my cosy ‘home’ in this rustic lodge and take another floatplane ride back to Anchorage. My extremely rewarding time in the Alaskan wilderness had come to an end. It was now time to meet with my hosts from Tourism Alaska for several cold beers and a pizza at the local’s favourite haunt “The Moose’s Tooth”. Swapping bear stories and sharing wilderness tales had me reliving the past week all over again, what an adventure and what an experience! I came to Alaska to photograph bears, but left with knowledge and memories that will last a lifetime. This remote wilderness provides a window into the true ‘circle of life’ that these magnificent creatures of our world have been living for countless generations, I only hope we can take the right steps to ensure this cycle continues. n
Rangers and guides tips for anyone planning to enter bear country
Never carry food with you when out in bear country unless it is sealed in an airtight container. Bears are not always aware - bears are a top of the food chain predator and they have few concerns. A bear following a trail doesn’t always look ahead and a sleeping bear often sleeps very soundly. Surprising a bear or unexpectedly appearing in its territory is not a good idea. A standing bear is not acting aggressively - bears stand to get a better sense of what has attracted their attention. Bears can see at least as well as we do and their sense of smell is many times more acute than ours. Females with cubs are no more dangerous than any other bear - all bears have the potential to be dangerous and should be treated with respect and caution. Bears Tolerate us because they see us as Predictable - bears are not unpredictable- though People can be!
Chris will be running a 7 day photography workshop on the 140 foot vessel TuiTai in the outer islands of Fiji in April. Boat caters for 22 guests, is equipped with diving gear, snorkelling equipment, mountain bikes and sea kayaks for those who like a bit of adventure thrown in. Chris will provide photographic assistance and guidance for the duration of the journey, and we will enjoy discussion workgroups and slide shows which will be held on several evenings throughout the trip. For more details please see www.cmphoto.co.nz
The salmon themselves are oblivious to their role in this food chain. They have returned to their birth stream after years at sea where they will readapt from salt water to fresh water, before making the slow and torturous journey up stream where they will spawn and eventually die at the head of the river. If they make it past the bears that is. Opposite: Young two year old “orphan” showing his authority. Silver Salmon Creek.
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//157 //PHOTOGRAPHY PROFILE/BO BRIDGES
Bo Bridges Photographer After 14 years of capturing amazing moments from land, sea, and air, worldrenowned photographer Bo Bridges opened his first gallery August 2008 in Hermosa Beach, California. Whether he’s shooting the world’s best action sport athletes or a Fortune 500 company’s marketing campaign, Bo Bridges captures the moment with defining imagery. His experience spans from fashion shoots in New York to Tahiti’s famed big-waves to Vegas’ billion-dollar diamond boutiques. Bridges has traveled the globe shooting for some of the
shown right: Jamie Sterling at Teahupoo, Tahiti. Halloween 2007. Epic conditions. There’s a coconut in the top of that lip. I shot this whole sequence and it’s mental to watch the progress of the coconut roll from the flat calm water into the lip and disappear in the lagoon never to be seen again. Luckily for Jamie he made a stellar clean ride from take off to the channel untouched by the lip.
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photo sequence: Glacier Tsunami Surfing, Cordova, Alaska. This was one of the craziest, scariest, coolest photo shoots of my life. It is the first of its kind and hopefully the last. Basically giant pieces of ice would fall down from a 400 foot (130 meter) super active glacier and create a tsunami wave. Garrett McNamara and Kealii Mamala would wait for days and hours for one to fall. Once that happened, they would chase after it on their jetskis and try to catch it without getting killed by ice and rock debris. “I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone. I won’t be going back. This is not a new sport.” - Garrett McNamara after his trip to AK
largest and most successful companies in the world, including Pepsi, Toyota, Verizon, NBC, Target, Remy Martin, Coors, Land Rover, Sports Illustrated, ESPN, and various Olympic Gold Medalists. Bo is proud to share his experience and expertise in this spectacular 3000 square foot state of the art gallery. He hosts events at the gallery which doubles as sPit Studio ‘ a creative agency. Check out www.bobridges.com to view one of the largest action sport image banks in the world. n
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above: Downtown Chicago, Illinois. I was out to cover some BMX action last June and it was very hot and humid. Lake Michigan was still freezing cold from the long winter. I had some downtime and managed to find a kayak rental place up north that had two stand up paddle boards. I don’t think anyone has ever paddled up this river on one of these. Large boats filled with tourists would almost roll sideways with those on board trying to take a pic or see what we were doing. I took a camera with no water housing out to capture some images of a friend and I. This angle was perfect so I had him grab a shot of me with the Trump tower in the background. right: I call this photo “Smashing.” It was taken this past September 2009 off of Newport, Rhode Island on the Eastern Coast of the United States. I took a red-eye flight to try and catch up with Hurricane Bill which was working it’s way up the Atlantic Ocean. The swell was starting to fill in heavy on Sat evening right when I shot this one smashing into the breakwall at Pt. Judith.
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“I love the mountains too,” he adds. “Snow-skiing. Mountainbiking. I love the outdoors. Even better if I’m on the water.” For Jeremy, big wave surfing and SUP are “just another form of being on the ocean. ” “Do I get scared? Yeah, sure. A wipeout’s a wipeout. Some of them can be really bad and very scary. I had two wipeouts at Teahupo’o. The two biggest wipeouts I’ve had. But it seemed to be in slow motion. The first impact is the impact of hitting the sea surface, it felt like I was dead already, and in heaven, because there was no weight, I was inside the wave. The second impact – two seconds later – was when the whole thing came down on me and bang, took me straight down to the bottom of the reef within five or ten seconds – it wasn’t too bad. I hit my shins and my knees, and my elbow big time. “I’ve ridden Teahupo’o before at about 6’, and other similar waves around Tahiti which have been about 10’, but not like that. There is only one Teahupo’o. I’ve surfed all round Hawaii, the North Shore, Maui, some nice big swells. I’ve
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towed and foiled Peahi (Jaws), and was surfing Sprecks when Jaws was 80–100ft. But the (SUP) wave at Teahupo’o was definitely my best. We were just lucky to be there. Lucky to have the place uncrowded, lucky for the invite, lucky with everything.” After losing his SUP board for a couple of hours to the inner reef when he kicked off his second wave (it was too dangerous for a leash), Jeremy spent the rest of the day tow-surfing, and a good while towing JP as he sat on the back of the jet ski, windsurf equipment in hand, trying to catch a set wave. “If you think it sounds easy then think again. Trying to time a 15ft wave coming towards you as you jump off the back of the ski with only a few seconds to pump the sail before it starts barrelling over the reef is no easy feat,” writes JP on his website. No one could describe surfing Teahupo’o as easy, no matter what way you drop in: it’s fun, limit-pushing, extreme, challenging, energising... and humbling.
“It is one of the most feared waves in the world, if not to most surfers the scariest and most dangerous wave in the world, because it breaks on a shallow reef”
“It was such a perfect mission; leaving NZ Friday night for a weekend of surf, back here Tuesday morning,” Jeremy sums up. “Campbell had some of the best barrels he’d had in his life after surfing for years. I got my SUP wave. Stoked. It was 100% fun.” Campbell agrees, and applauds Jeremy: “To go straight from Muriwai out to Teahupo’o, that’s a really gutsy effort, and he got bloody good waves. There’s no question that the day we were out there was a medium to heavy day – 12–15ft. “Jeremy’s wave was pretty cool, it was like 5–6ft. If it’s a 12ft face – doubled over his head – then it’s a 5–6 footer,” says Campbell, explaining the difference in how waves are measured in NZ and the USA – Kiwis usually measure the front side of the wave (what you see from the beach). While no stranger to big waves on his SUP board, Campbell prefers to tow-surf Teahupo’o when it’s on, and usually times his stays with friends there for when it’s so big most surfers don’t want to know about it. He’s ridden “Big
Chopes” five times now. “Teahupo’o has been regarded as a benchmark for performance, or showing that one can,” explains Campbell. “But at the same time Tahiti for me is a little bit more personal in that I’ve been going there since I was five years old and I really feel something different when I’m in Tahiti. I’ve got good friends that live there. I feel at home in the Pacific. – you ride to make it. At times it seems a lot easier to surf the wave than watch it.” Campbell describes just how quickly Teahupo’o can turn from perfect to perilous: “You’re on this perfectly shaped wave on the edge of this beautiful lagoon with majestic mountains in the background. If it all goes right, there’s this nice big almond-shaped barrel throwing over you and everything just feels perfect. In that moment you don’t really see exactly what it is that’s surrounding you, just the clear open tube in front. But when a ride goes wrong… it’s like all www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 21
of a sudden that hazardous situation behind you is now in your foreground. That’s when you realise, ‘I’ve got to work to get through this’, whether it’s surfing your way through it or taking a wipeout on the head. At that point there’s a lot of luck as well as experience at getting through that. Having trust is important. “You have to trust the wave, you have to trust yourself, and you have to trust the person driving you. Living, feeling that great place of trust is what gets you through that wave. If you don’t feel that, you shouldn’t even be out there, and you’re kidding yourself if you are.” It helps to be out there with some of the most experienced people in the world, with cellphones, rescue sleds and other safety equipment, including an emergency personal locator beacon that Campbell is never without. “I can be anywhere in the world – it doesn’t matter if I’m in the mountains or in the ocean – if I click that beacon on, the satellite will locate me within a 5ft radius and send me whatever emergency service is available in the local area. Campbell, who has surfed for 20 years, comes from a windsurfing and yachting background. “I spent all my time in the ocean as a yachtsman and I’d had wild days of 30–40 knots in my P-class, arrrrgh . . . you know, braving the seas,” he says with a pirate’s scowl. “I wasn’t so much afraid of the ocean in wild conditions – I just had to learn how to surf.” Moving to Maui at 20, Campbell found himself drawn to big wave surfing and to the feeling he was truly pushing his limits. “I perform better as a survivor, as a person that steps up to the challenge. When it gets really big everything calms down for me . . . when I’m out there in small surf I can think about all sorts of other shit, but when it’s big I’m there. I’m 100% focused and I can have that moment of losing myself and being at one with the situation and nature.” Campbell has been into SUP for six or seven years – since the beginning. Last year he placed in the top 5 of the five races he entered, including winning the 2008 Molokai-Oahu 32 mile paddle race with Buzzy Kerbol in the Teams Unlimited division. “I’ve probably had to date more fun stand-up paddling in small surf than I have in big surf, and to date I’ve probably spent more hours paddling in no surf doing downwinders than I have riding waves. The boards have got a lot shorter, lighter, more high performance, and people are looking for different rides. I’ve seen photos of guys standing in double overhead barrels with their paddles in the air, riding Teahupo’o, Pipeline, Backdoor, Waimea and all these spots.. “At the beginning of SUP everyone was like, ‘Oh they’re big longboards, and they’re for fat waves’, and so on. Now the lead guys in the sport are taking SUP to places like Teahupo’o when it’s at its heaviest. It’s a fantastic sport because you can play at so many different levels.”
Do it Standing Up
When it comes to Stand Up Paddleboarding (SUP), riding Teahupo’o is just one of endless possibilities. But regardless of whether you’re surfing 15ft waves or gliding on glassy lakes, SUP leaves you feeling balanced, energised, and stoked to be alive. You don’t need to be brave or experienced, or even a surfer. Anyone – men, women and children – can pick it up easily and yet still feel consistently challenged as you hone your technique and venture out into new territories. You can SUP on any body of water: the ocean, estuaries, lakes, rivers, canals, and because of your height advantage when standing, your view of the water below is ten times better than a kayak or paddle-surf position. You’ll see abundant marine life, sets rolling in, rapids coming up...and you can take it at your own pace, for fun and fitness. SUP is the ultimate crossover sport. You train your entire body, core, legs, arms, back, and brain, plus SUP is low impact and therefore good for your joints. The perfect strength-builder for dodgy knees, there’s no pounding the pavements or jumping up and down on the aerobics floor. It works your core stability, prevents back pain, and promotes good posture. Say goodbye to your love handles: SUP tones, shapes and builds muscle, burns fat and gives you a fantastic shape faster than anything. Unlike kiteboarding, windsurfing and traditional surfing, you don’t need wind or waves – just a big surfboard around 12ft long by 30in wide, and a paddle about 8–10in taller than you. While it delivers the adrenalin buzz of going fast, along with the thrill of riding waves, SUP also has a meditative, calming effect. The sound of the water rippling under your board or the waves crashing around you, the rhythm of the paddle stroke . . . you are totally immersed in the present, focused, calm. You feel humbled by your insignificance in relation to the ocean. Like other adventure sports, SUP gets you outside year round, playing in the elements, appreciating nature and the beauty of the environment, and soaking up the Vitamin D (which is great for your immune system and mental health). Life takes on another dimension when you are more tuned into the environment, when you are aware of the wind and the rain, the temperature, the currents, and the sun on your face. You become more at one with the planet.
Opposite: Jeremy Stephenson. Stoked.
above: Campbell Farrell - steep and deep. Modern SUP traces its roots to Hawaii and Tahiti, where the paddle has been used for hundreds of years. Ancient legends say Hawaii is the birthplace of Maui, and Aotearoa is where Maui died, and just as Aotearoa, Tahiti and Hawaii share the same legends, so too do we share the paddle. Traditionally in NZ the Maori waka ama paddle is shorter and used while seated in a waka (canoe), but the stroke and style are similiar, as are the koru and tiki designs featured in the artwork on many of the boards. A good way to try SUP if you haven’t got a mate with a board is to get along to a Starboard demo day on a beach near you (visit the Starboard website at www.starboard.co.nz) or rock up for a lesson with Madloop Windsurfing School on Lake Pupuke, or Ferg’s Kayaks at Okahu Bay. Other SUP schools are opening around the country soon (visit www.supsnz.com for updates) and before you go, check out Starboard’s “How to SUP” guide online. To get kitted out with a startup package such as Starboard’s The Whopper with Carbon Paddle, Buoyancy Vest, leash and board bag costs under $3,000. The Tuffskin Paddle will bring the cost down a little, but if you don’t have the cash upfront, there are “hire-tobuy” options that work out at around the price of a gym membership. It’s important to remember not to start out in the surf – even if you’re a surfer. Mastering your balance and technique on the flat water is important for your own safety and those around you. The boards are bigger, heavier and harder to control than a surfboard, so they can be dangerous in the surf. Until
you are completely capable of controlling your board and keeping hold of it if you need to bail, find a spot where there’s no one else around. SUP is a great introduction to riding waves for those who haven’t surfed before and once you’ve mastered the flat water and then caught that first wave you’ll be hooked for life. Those who have surfed before will find that SUP is about as different to surfing as skiing is to snowboarding. With SUP you have a bigger board, so you need more time to adjust to the wave (about five seconds compared to one or two on a short board). You also need to be able to read the wave and anticipate faster what’s coming so you can make those adjustments in time. The paddle is another key difference. Like an extra arm, it gives you more manoeuvring ability and acts as a balancing tool, but again, it requires more skill. The wider rails (4in versus ¾in on a short board) also make planing pretty different. However, once surfing you will be blown away by how many awesome rides you are able to catch and how easy it is to get away from crowded line-ups and find your own break. It also opens up miles of undiscovered coastline that would be impossible to arm-paddle out to on a surfboard. Just remember to give respect on the waves to other surfers – don’t hog the waves – and treat others as you would like to be treated. “Surf with aloha” as they say in Hawaii. Safety vests and leashes are really important, especially when out on the open ocean, surfing or doing downwind missions or distance paddling. New technology in buoyancy vests gives unrestricted range of movement while you’re paddling, without bulk, and you can buy special coiled leg ropes which stay on top of the board and eliminate drag. On long-distance missions its good to be paddling with friends, or have a support boat nearby, to have a safety plan, and of course to check the weather conditions before you go. Not just for surf, SUP can be a gruelling endurance sport too, and has been compared to standing on an exercise ball for five to eight hours with swells coming at you from all directions. Specially designed race boards like Starboard’s K15 or The Pin are shaped like a stand-up kayak, enabling riders to glide through the water at top speed, and compete regularly in regular local, national and international race events. SUP categories are already established in many NZ paddle and surf events, from Auckland’s King of the Harbour to the Hyundai Pro Longboard Tour. Keep an eye on the Supsnz.com website for regular calendar updates as contest dates become available for the coming season, and to get the lowdown on local SUP clubs or race events. There is already a women’s club called BOBS (Boobs-On-Boards) who meet at Takapuna Beach every second Sunday for training and friendly racing, and there is a 3km SUP course in Takapuna’s Tuesday night Beach Series this season. So what are you waiting for? Do it Standing Up. n
Modern SUP traces its roots to Hawaii and Tahiti, where the paddle has been used for hundreds of years. Ancient legends say Hawaii is the birthplace of Maui, and Aotearoa is where Maui died, and just as Aotearoa, Tahiti and Hawaii share the same legends, so too do we share the paddle. above: Local Tahitian legend Raimana Van Bastolaer swings by to pick up Campbell.
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Fish, fur and floatplanes Photos and Text by Chris McLennan
My tripod bumped to one side and I felt a spray of water as I heard the thunder of a heavy, running animal (only slightly louder than the hammering of my heart), closely followed by the intense odour of wet fur and fish. Yes I was finally here in Alaska, in the thick of the Salmon run and surrounded by the concentrated feeding frenzy of the grizzly bears. I was sure glad I wasn’t included on the menu! I would have been an easy target for the huge female bear that had just run past within a half metre of me, knocking my tripod as she went! After almost a year of planning and eager anticipation I had arrived in the remote, untamed wilderness that is Alaska. My trip started with a day’s journey on the Across Alaskan Railroad followed by a boat cruise amongst the stunning glaciers of Prince William Sound. And now I was at my first “bear” destination, Silver Salmon Creek Lodge in the Lake Clark National Park on the Western Shores of Cook Inlet.
this photo: Grizzly in the river just below Brooks Falls
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It had been an early start at the local airport, a small airstrip surrounded by canals lined with dozens of floatplanes – our gruff pilot muttering that there were only 3 roads in Alaska so almost everyone owned a plane… On to the scales and quick calculations on the weight of the people and the assorted camera cases – which were somewhat over the allowed maximum – a bit more mumbling and off we went. After a 35 minute flight down the coast we were circling the landing strip, which was in fact a beach, complete with 5 grizzly bears digging for clams within 400 metres of where we landed! There was no doubt we were in bear territory now. After sorting my gear at Silver Salmon Creek Lodge, a very homely place with huge log fires, incredible food and a total of only 6 guests, I was
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Kiwis stand up STORY BY VICTORIA STUART | photos by tim mckenna
Indecision hung in the air in the quiet Tahitian township of Teahupo’o (pronounced “cho-poo”) as New Zealanders Campbell Farrell and Jeremy Stephenson ate breakfast and contemplated the surf with top local surfer Raimana Van Bastolaer. It was Friday the 17th of July, 2009. Satellite maps showed a big swell was heading their way, but outside it was messy, on-shore, rough.
“Campbell’s mobile phone must have rung 30 times,” recalls Jeremy, who had been invited only the previous day to join Campbell on the weekend surf trip from Auckland. He lists the big wave surfing legends phoning in for reports: Jason Polakow (JP); Laird Hamilton; Robby Naish. Conditions were uncertain, but the final phone call from Australian pro-windsurfer JP (from the plane in LA) was clear. He’d be joining them at 3am the following morning. The swell would arrive, as predicted, on the afternoon of Sunday the 20th and for those who took the punt, it was 20ft uncrowded, and 100% Teahupo’o – fast, steep and mind-blowing. “It is one of the most feared waves in the world, if not to most surfers the scariest and most dangerous wave in the world, because it breaks on a shallow reef,” says Jeremy. The wave is also known as the heaviest in the world, the lip as thick as it is tall. Located on the southwest corner of Tahiti Iti, the break at Teahupo’o was formed millions of years ago by freshwater flowing from the mountains into the sea, making a channel as it did so through the reef known as the Passe Havae. With no land mass or outer reef to break up the giant southwest swell of the Pacific Ocean, the sheer force of the wave is almost unimaginable. As it forms it sucks the razor-sharp reef dry and bucks up almost instantly into a high-speed cavernous left-hand barrel, sucking anyone unlucky enough to be in the wrong place at the wrong time right up and over the falls. There’s no room for turning or mistakes. To surf Teahupo’o takes more than guts – it also requires the highest degree of skill and wave anticipation, and determination. “At Teahupo’o you have to be on the peak, and you’re there or you’re not there,” Jeremy says. “It’s like you’ve got one second of stay or go. The wave jacks up within a very, very short timeframe. One minute it’ll be just a big roll, it won’t even be a wave, and then it stands up to 20ft+ wave-face within seconds.” Demonstrating by moving his hands and shoulders in a fluid motion, he explains: “You’ve got to be there, on your board correct, stance correct. You point your board in the right direction and hang on. “The thrill is unreal. It seems like forever but it’s so fast, and so steep. All you can do is hang on. It seems like forever but it’s only a short ride. You’re so on the edge.” By Sunday evening Teahupo’o was 15ft+ and quite windy. Having had the previous two days to set-up the necessary equipment – safety-sleds, buoyancy vests, jet skis, tow ropes, boards and so on, Campbell, JP, Raimana and Jeremy set out on two skis for a couple of hours tow-surfing before nightfall. “There was no-one else around. No boats, no surfers, no-one,” Jeremy remembers. I was with Raimana and Campbell was with JP. We got out there and Campbell and JP had to go back in to get the tow boards off the photography boat, which was inside the lagoon. Meanwhile it was just Raimana and myself out there and it was huge. “Raimana said, ‘Get on the end of the rope.’ We’d looked at the swell for
less than a minute and he wanted to tow me into this wave. I was thinking I’d like to sit around and watch this swell for a while. You have to study this wave. You cannot just tow into something like this and expect to get away with it. “Where the surfers are lined up in the water is the tell-tale for your take-off point with towing in to the wave. When there’s no one there you can be very deep or not deep enough. If you’re too deep you’ll get killed. “I said to Raimana, I think three times, ‘No, I want to watch it.’ The third time he says, ‘Get on the end of the rope.’ I figured what the hell, he knows, he’s the best man to know, I’ll take his word for it. Within seconds this huge set appears on the horizon. He says, ‘Are you ready?’ and he tells me he loves me, brother. I’m thinking, oh my God, what does he mean by that?” Jeremy had met Raimana when he arrived in Tahiti on Friday morning. Modest and soft-spoken, the Quiksilver rider grew up as a bodyboarder and his first wave standing up was a 6ft barrel at his home break, Teahupo’o. He is world-famous for being nearly decapitated by a jet ski that came over the falls while he was riding through a barrel in 2005, and also for his Polynesian aloha spirit. “I knew who he was and a lot about him and I definitely have the biggest respect for him,” says Jeremy. “You’ve got to have big balls to go and surf this wave. The thing is with Teahupo’o is that its not really a wave, it’s a higher bubble on the horizon which comes through, and depends on which direction its coming from, the breeze and all these other things. “Raimana can see all these things. He knows what’s going on. When he tells you he loves you what else do you do? Just go for it. Faith and trust. I just went down this huge bloody wave on his tow board. Didn’t even try the foot straps or nothing. I think I got my second wave, I was just riding the shoulder to test it out, playing it safe. It was overhead what I would say was 20ft inside this thing. You just don’t want to look back. It’s massive, and the sound of it is just huge. Just like an avalanche.” The swell peaked during the night but the team were out again by 8am Monday, this time with photographer Tim McKenna. The wind and swell had both dropped but it was still a good 15ft+. “On Monday Campbell and Raimana were towing, there was only one other ski out and there were some paddle surfers,” continues Jeremy. “I was waiting to tow JP, but he had a bad, bad stomach ache. When you’re not feeling right to tow into a wave like that you just chill out. “I’m sitting there watching these awesome waves come through, and I had itchy feet. I had to get in there.” With his 8ft, 5in Starboard Pocket Rocket in the photographer’s boat, Jeremy saw his opportunity to SUP Teahupo’o, and this time there was no hesitation. A “bit of a waterman”, Jeremy (40) has been SUP surfing for nearly six years. He also foil-boards, tow-surfs, ocean yacht-races, has been an Olympic Rep Sailor, NZ National Jet Ski Champion, and has done loads of water-skiing, and windsurfing.
“You’ve got to have big balls to go and surf this wave. The thing is with Teahupo’o is that it’s not really a wave, it’s a higher bubble on the horizon which comes through, and depends on which direction its coming from, the breeze and all these other things.” Opposite: Campbell Farrell tow-surfs Teahupo’o
next spread: Jeremy Stephenson sits back and enjoys the ride www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 17
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Columbia Adventure Film Festival hits Australasian big screens
An adventure film festival born in Queenstown is expanding into cinemas across New Zealand and Australia this December thanks to a distribution agreement signed with Hoyts Cinemas, one of Australasia’s leading entertainment corporations. The festival has enjoyed four seasons in Queenstown where it was created by Kirsten Nicholl of OSB Productions as an inspirational addition to the local events calendar. The Columbia Adventure Film Festival is a 2 hour, 20 minute, full high-definition experience that brings together some of the greatest movies screened over the past few years of the Queenstown festival. “We have always believed in the broad appeal of films around the theme of adventure. Our experience in Queenstown has shown there is a strong appetite for adventure films across the wider community. We aim to inspire the audience to get off the couch to find adventures of their own. These
award winning films come from all over the world and seeing them in high-definition on large commercial screens will add a real “wow” factor.” Screenings are confirmed in 5 cinemas in New Zealand and 16 in Australia, with a number of associated regional cinemas across both countries expecting to confirm shortly. The Festival will screen exclusively in Hoyts and some Hoyts affiliated cinemas in Australia and New Zealand from 10 – 24th December 2009. For more information including movie details and trailer, check out www.adventurefilmfest.com. The Queenstown Adventure Film Festival returns for its 5th year in July/August 2010.
In selected Hoyts Cinemas from 10 December 2009 Tickets from the box office or www.hoyts.co.nz & www.hoyts.com.au
in association with
with assistance from
Under Armour
Recharge Compression Sock Designed to reduce swelling and soreness time getting you back out there faster. Perfect after those long runs, mountain bikes and aids circulation during long distance travel. Strategic Compression promotes muscle repair by targeting and stabilizing muscles. Signature Moisture Transport wicks moisture and accelerates evaporation. Strategic Cushion provides shock protection and space compensation. Embedded Arch Support reduces foot fatigue and bolsters circulation. Seamless Toe for ultimate comfort. ArmourBlock™ helps prevent growth of odorcausing bacteria. $79.99 RRP www.underarmour.co.nz
Waikato River Run in aid of Prostate Cancer Foundation Please support me as I participate in Waikato River Expedition in an effort to raise funds for Prostate Cancer Foundation of New Zealand. From the beginning I wanted to use this trip as an opportunity to raise awareness for a good cause. The Prostate foundation of NZ has backed the expedition and I will be setting up a 0900 number and a sponsorship form on the website so people can sponsor the Prostate Foundation per kilometre I go down the river. To lend your support, see www.fundraiseonline.co.nz/frankway. For more information on the trip, view www.waikatoriverexpedition.co.nz.
For more information contact Ray on 027 490 9901 or email nomorepunctures@xtra.co.nz
www.punctureproof.net.nz
Punctureproof is a Propylene Glycol water soluble tyre sealant which when installed in a tyre will give full protection against punctures and pressure loss for the entire legal life of a tyre, and will eradicate the following: Tread punctures | Bead leaks | Rim leaks | Porosity | Tube tyre or wheel-related leaks.
See with both hands free with Energizer! Whether you’re changing a tyre, walking the dog, barbequing, on the boat, trekking or night cycling, the Energizer 7 LED Headlight gives you the freedom to use both hands on the task. With its bright light, weatherproof rating, light modes (Spot, Flood, Full and night vision) and lifetime guarantee, you can be assured of reliable quality and performance. RRP $44.95
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Camera Armor:
Seattle Solo DSLR bag Keeping your gear protected from the elements, the simple dry bag technology of the Seattle Solo provides watertight transport for one camera body with lens attached. Just unbuckle the clips, unroll the dry-bag enclosed and secure your DSLR inside - the bag will keep dirt, dust and sand out. It will even remain airtight when fully submerged in water. The Seattle Solo bag features a convenient external storage pouch for memory cards and small accessories. An adjustable shoulder strap is padded for comfort as is the back of the bag to ensure comfortable hip carrying. Complete with an elastic shock cord for gear storage, the Seattle Solo is packed with useful features that would tempt any DSLR user looking for a compact bag that has it all! Grab-andgo using the handy carrying handle that finishes this bag off perfectly. Available from photo specialist stores from December. RRP $135 cameraarmor.com
Dirty dog winners Congratulations to our winners of a pair of Dirty Dogs. Thank you for taking the time to complete our Readers Survey: David McMullan, Whangaparaoa Sue Wilson, Wellsford Aaron Wells, Auckland Bren George, Ohaupo Megan Thomas, Wellington
Original Buff® headwear
Buff® wicks moisture away and protects you from heat and wind. This seamless tube transforms into 12 different technical layers for your head and neck. Buff® Headband now available in Coolmax® fabric. $38.00 www.buffnz.co.nz
Discover Hydropal water filter bottles
My partner, Scott, and I run an educational travel company, taking small groups of students and adults all over the world. Our main focus is Southeast Asia, and Cambodia in particular. One of the ‘educational experiences’ we facilitate is a visit to the Stung Meanchey Municipal Dump in Phnom Penh, where families live and forage among the toxic refuse. It is a pretty horrifying place, and no one comes away unmoved at the spectre of extreme poverty. We hope these kinds of experiences will inspire our participants to make small changes in their own lives. Anyone who has travelled in Southeast Asia will be well aware of the huge problem plastic bottles pose. Everyone we have ever met travelling in Southeast Asia buys drinking water in plastic bottles. A solo traveller is likely to throw away around 100 bottles in just a couple of weeks. Extrapolate this out to a group of 10-15 on a 1 week or 2 month trip, and it’s a serious mountain of plastic. A year ago we discovered Hydropal water filter bottles and after testing them ourselves we now supply them to all of our trip leaders, our travellers, and suggest anyone who travels overseas or back-country invests in one. At $20, it is a very small price to pay for a huge positive impact in reducing rubbish, and the peace of mind that your drinking water is uncontaminated. This winter we spent 6 weeks in Argentina, and with just one Hydropal bottle, easily filtered enough tap water for three very thirsty people, for the whole time we were away. We didn’t buy a single bottle of water and our Hydropal earned it’s keep within about 2 days! We did try boiling the water (as most locals do), but it tasted far better from our Hydropal, which removed all the unpleasant taste. Chris at Hydropal has created a fantastic product - it’s economical, easy to use and great for the world! Rachel Sanson Pacific Discovery - insightful small group adventures www.pacificdiscovery.org National Geographic Adventure ‘Best Travel Companies on earth’ 2009 & 2008 www.adventuremagazine.co.nz//
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The lightest scuba regulator in the world...
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Apeks Flight is lighter than any other comparable regulator made by any other manufacturer in the world. It is the most compact regulator Apeks has ever made. Features: The unique, secure attachment of the second stage to the hose offers quick removal without the use of tools. Lightweight double braided hose resists UV rays out of the water, thus extending the life of the hose. The hose is lightweight and extremely flexible but is also strong with a burst pressure more than twice that of most traditional hoses. Contact Aquanaut 09 415 8350 or via email at sales@aquanaut.co.nz For more information. www.aquanaut.co.nz
Modern adventurers walk to address youth issues
Baselayer:
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Veteran mountaineer Graeme Dingle and adventurer Jamie Fitzgerald are set to walk the length of New Zealand with groups of young Kiwis, in a bid to turnaround the country’s negative youth statistics. Dubbed ‘The Big Walk’ the journey will get underway on 30 November and is expected to finish in early February 2010. Dingle said he and Fitzgerald teamed up to tackle the country’s sobering youth statistics and find ways to motivate and engage young New Zealanders. “Alongside groups of young Kiwis aged predominantly between 16-18 years old, we will travel the Te Araroa Trail which runs the full length of New Zealand from Cape Reinga to Bluff.” Dingle, who co-founded The Foundation for Youth Development (FYD) in 1995, believes a concerted approach is required by everyone – politicians, corporates, healthcare and education providers, and communities alike – to turn around the country’s rates of suicide, unplanned pregnancy, and drug and alcohol use which are among the highest in the western world. The expedition has been awarded a Hillary Expedition Grant by SPARC. Members of the public will be able to track their journey by going to www.thebigwalk.org.nz. For further information you can contact Christine Meads at christine.meads@xtra.co.nz.
Goodbye surf rash
Surfgel is a new ‘rub on - rash off’ gel which eliminates the discomfort of raw skin from your wetsuit or boardshorts….and free of those unsightly ‘love rash’ looking patches you can get on your neck. Packaged in a convenient ‘deodorant’ style applicator the goo applies direct to skin so no need to get it on your hands, and it won’t spill through all your gear. Made from a fine grade pretolatum this handy product is super resistant to water, sweat, heat, cold and wind - staying on for 5hrs of use. Even if the rawness of rash or chafing has set in around the neck, under arms or chest / crotch area, Surfgel say that its eases the discomfort and even helps rashed-up skin to heal. The coconut smell is great and bound to attract the opposite sex, so while perfect for avoiding wetsuit rash you may still have the love rash to deal with…RRP: $19.95 info@curvesurf.co.nz
Certificate in Outdoor Recreation Starts February 2010
Live and learn on New Zealand’s spectacular West Coast. TPP’s Outdoor Programme is based in the heart of our greatest wilderness - it’s the place to learn! Turning outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor professionals... Mountaineering Rock Climbing Tramping Sea Kayaking Kayaking Rafting Our graduates cannot say enough about how awesome the programme was. We have great tutors - who are industry experts and our student : tutor ratio is low! TPP’s Leadership & Guiding graduates are highly regarded and sought after by NZ’s tourism and education industries. Further study path at TPP - second year Certificate in Advanced Leadership & Guiding. Certificate in Leadership & Guiding Starts January 2010.
“Since enrolling, I have never looked back. The adventures were non-stop during my time in Greymouth. My favourite was the coastal rock climb in Charleston. Feeling the salt water chasing me up was so exhilarating and a memory I have treasured”. Jo Pawson - Certificate in Outdoor Recreation.
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New Energizer outdoor range
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Camping trips are a kiwi favourite so make sure you’re prepared this summer with the new outdoor range of torches and lanterns from Energizer, which are designed to suit practically all your outdoor lighting needs. Each product is fitted with Nichia® LED bulb technology giving you long hours of bright light and outdoor enjoyment. RRP from $17.95. Available at leading retailers.
Meindl Wins Gold
Meindl footwear was recently awarded a Gold Medal Award at Europe’s largest Outdoor and Adventure Expo in Friedrichshafen, Germany.
Judged by a panel of independent experts the Meindl Island MFS Model was was awarded the Gold Medal as the most technically advanced, correctly supportive and proven outdoor footwear for over twenty years. A tramping boot that has been successful on the market for the past 20 years, the Island MFS Active has undergone regular development and improvement. At the core of the innovation is a rearventilation and cushioning technology, a new foam design, improved lacing elements, a new foot-bed technology, high moisture absorption as well as extremely quick-drying material. This boot is a classic, a tried-andtrusted product. It is the regular technological innovations that make Meindl the market leader year after year. Meindl Footwear is distributed in New Zealand by Stager Sport NZ Ltd and is available at specialist retailers nationwide. www.stagersport.com
Turn your world into your classroom Outdoor Education and Adventure Tourism
Your career in the outdoors starts with CPIT. Our passionate, industryexperienced tutors will teach you on location throughout the world renowned, beautiful South Island. Enrol today in our degree, certificates and diploma options for 2010. Contact us today for more information.
Make the most of your talent 0800 24 24 76 www.cpit.ac.nz 12//WHERE
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© Photo : studio Kalice
High performance LED | three white lighting modes | two red lighting modes | multi-mode push button | battery charge indicator light | ergonomic design | easy-to-use battery compartment
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www.the-power-of-light.com www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 13