BAJA L I F E S T Y L E
M A G A Z I N E
MARCH APRIL 2008
1
On the beach just 35 minutes south of San Diego Exclusive, gated community in Puerto Nuevo, Baja Norte 5 Star, resort-style living with all the amenities you expect World-class Beach Club, destination spa and fine dining Business center, wine cellar, international concierge service 27 acres of pristine land with 1,500 feet of sandy beach Studio, 1, 2, 3 bedroom and Penthouse floor plans Exceptional, proven resort operator State-of-the-art health and fitness center & tennis courts Minutes from golf, marinas, shopping and the Ensenada wine country Full ownership, title insurance and US dollar financing
Conceptual renderings subject to change
Please contact our sales representatives at Phone - 877-439-BAJA (2252) Email - sales@ElMilagroBaja.com www.ElMilagroBaja.com
2
This offer to purchase real property interests is void in any jurisdiction where the seller has not been approved real property interests, or has not otherwise applied with applicable law.
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z Ito N E sell
MARCH APRIL 2008
3
IN T HI S
E
I S S U E March/April 2008
6
From the Editor
8
Health Matters
10
Calendar of Events
13
Getting Down To Business
16
Casa Rustica
22
Baja Travesia
24
Taste of Baja
28 Chichicastenango 32
Insiders Guide
34
Unexpected Baja
Baja Lifestyle Magazine is published by: Baja Media Group PO Box 189101 #307 Coronado, CA 92178-9010 www.bajalifestylemag.com
Baja Lifestyle Magazine is published bimonthly. The publication is distributed in upscale areas of California, Arizona, Canada and Northern Baja California. Circulation of this issue: 12,000 Š Baja Media Group
4
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
Photograph by the editor
Estero Beach E
S
T
E
R
O
B
E
A
C
H
T H E P E R F E C T S E T T I N G F O R T H E P E R F E C T VAC AT I O N Estero Beach Hotel and Resort has all the elements to
Enjoy the fresh air, cool breezes and the spectacular sunsets
create to the perfect vacation. A four-star, beachfront
from the beach walk or from the balcony of your room.
resort with a private beach on a private bay and estuary.
Savor the tranquility of strolling in our beautifully landscaped
Estero Beach Hotel Resort is a prestigious resort that has been a favorite for families since the 1950’s. Estero Beach
gardens. Or take advantage of the wide array of exciting activities. .
is where the cool waters of the Pacific and the warmth of
Make Estero Beach the perfect setting for your next dream
Baja California create the memories of a lifetime.
vacation. reservations@hotelesterobeach.com www.hotelesterobeach.com
ENSENADA, B.C.
482 W. San Ysidro Blvd. #1186 • San Ysidro, CA. 92173 From the U.S. 011-52-646-176-6225 In Mexico 646-176-6225/176-6230 Fax 011 52 (646) 176 - 6925
MARCH APRIL 2008
5
BAJA LIFESTYLE
MAGAZINE
Thora Guthrie Editor/Publisher Creative Director
From the Editor Within the pages of this first issue of Baja Lifestyle Magazine you will get a glimpse at some of the special people, places and adventures that make Northern Baja a growing destination, not only for travelers, but for those looking for a new place to call home. As more baby boomers near retirement age, Mexico is becoming a more attractive option. Baja’s beach communities are growing into active, healthy and beautiful neighborhoods. Even families with children still at home are moving to Baja, finding great schools, good, affordable medical care and a stimulating lifestyle for a fraction of what the same lifestyle would cost north of the border. Overwhelming natural beauty, abundant outdoor activities and great shopping add to the appeal, drawing more and more Americans and other foreigners to invest and relocate to Baja every year. As I spend more time here in order to bring the Baja experience to our readers, I am reminded daily that it is the culture and people of Mexico that hold the allure for me. Sure, the beaches and countryside are gorgeous and the food is to die for. And I will never forget the generosity of my hosts while I was creating this first issue from my little casita at Casa Lana. But it is the “Mexico-ness” that draws me back. It is a soul-stirring quality I have not found elsewhere. I look forward to sharing that magic with you, our reader, through thought provoking stories and beautiful photography. And as Baja Lifestyle Magazine reveals Baja’s enchantment and explores the lives and adventures of those who enjoy life here, I hope you find more reasons to spend time here too.
Thora Guthrie 6
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
Photographers Doug Gould Melanie Lamaga Jose Angel Lamaga John Larsen Paula McDonald
Contributors Martina Steve Dryden Carole Firstman John Larsen Carlos Garcia-Travesi Copy Editor Lois Drake
Vol. 1 Issue 1 The mission of Baja Lifestyle Magazine is to reveal the extraordinary lifestyle of Northern Baja California through thoughtprovoking stories, and to be the most effective communication vehicle to reach the diverse population choosing to be part of the the human landscape here. Copyright 2008 Baja Media Group Distribution of more than 100,000 copies per year to select areas of Northern Baja, California, Arizona and Canada.
LIFE IS THE ULTIMATE LUXURY WHEN YOUR FRONT YARD LOOKS LIKE THIS
HACIENDA BAJA, JUST FIFTEEN MINUTES FROM SAN DIEGO AND ONE MILE SOUTH OF TRUMP’S
CONDOMINIUM DEVELOPMENT. AN EXCLUSIVE BLEND OF LIFE AND STYLE ON BAJA’S GOLD COAST.
OFFERING BEAUTIFUL OCEAN FRONT AND OCEAN VIEW HOME SITES AND CUSTOM BUILT
HOMES, IT IS WITHIN MINUTES OF GOLF COURSES, RESTAURANTS, HOTELS, SPAS, AN EQUES-
TRIAN CENTER AND
SHOPPING -- WITH AN ABUNDANCE OF OUTDOOR & CULTURAL ACTIVITIES
CUSTOM HOME SITES FROM 2,800 TO 5,600 SQUARE FEET RANGING IN PRICE FROM $150,000 TO $345,000
a baja green project
title insurance full ownership 24 HOUR SECURITY
bajadrewj@yahoo.com phone (US) 619-517-4970 • NEXTEL 125*139870*15
MARCH APRIL 2008
7
H E A LT H M AT T E R S
Striving, driving for health care solutions
Medical options when visiting Visitors to Baja often express concern about what would happen should they become ill or get injured during their visit. The truth is that, while special health care insurance is available to cover transporting Baja travelers to a U.S. hospital should an emergency arise, excellent medical care is available in Baja as well. Abundant, quality care Baja California is experiencing a growing number of physicians, clinics and hospitals that have achieved international recognition for the quality of innovation of their services. A recent boom in hospital construction has helped draw even more well-trained doctors from Mexico City and the U.S. Along with top doctors, Baja California and Tijuana have also attracted multimillion-dollar investments in state-of-the-art infrastructure such as the medical facilities at Hospital Angeles de Tijuana, opened in 2005 by Mexico’s largest private hospital chain. Angeles boasts its own pharmacy, blood bank, X-ray equipment, neonatal intensive care unit, nuclear medicine lab, monitoring equipment, emergency room and a dozen operating rooms. Growing “Medical Tourism” The availability of quality and affordable medical care, in fact, attracts hundreds of
thousands of Californians to Mexico each year seeking treatment for a multitude of services like ophthalmology, cardiology, dermatology, dentistry or cosmetic dentistry, cosmetic surgery and purchases of pharmaceuticals A study by Baja’s State Tourism Department of the state’s health care providers shows that approximately 45 percent of their clientele comes from out of state, with 50 percent of those patients from the United States. Certain facilities like plastic surgery centers in Rosarito Beach, get as much as 80 percent of their business from the United States. The same study estimates that more than a million Californian “medical tourists” visit Baja California annually to obtain some form of health services or products, spending a combined $900 million. And while price is reported as the main reason most Californians head south for medical services, that is closely followed by personal recommendations and recognition of quality. Medical “Vacations” Patients from Southern California need only drive south and come back the same day. But many clever patients plan longer relaxing vacations around their medical procedures. Their vacations are virtually paid for by the savings gained from being treated in Mexico compared to what they would pay at home. American hospitals and clinics cannot compete with this low cost, relaxing way to obtain medical care plus a vacation. So as medical and insurance costs continue to rise in the United States, it is likely that we will see more and more Americans head south for their medical procedures.
Border Passes for Medical Tourists by Flavio Olivieri People who cross the border to get medical treatment in Baja can now return to San Diego more quickly through a new lane created just for them. Doctors and medical clinics in Baja can now provide their patients with special border crossing coupons which allow them into a shortcut to the border crossing, shortening their wait to twenty minutes at most. The physicians and clinics purchase the coupons from the city’s Economic Development Council for $2 each. To further encourage medical tourism, the Tijuana equivalent of an economic development council (CDT) is also in the process of publishing a web site that lists medical providers in Tijuana and their state board certifications. Flavio Olivieri is the director of Serena Senior Care, In-Home Assisted Lilving and Property Care. He also sits on the board of the Tijuana Economic Development Council (CDT).
8
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
Affordable Seaside Luxury at Hacienda Plaza del Mar
Perched on a bluff, boasting one of Baja’s most breathtaking views, a mighty pyramid stands as a curious remnant of Baja’s untamed past and as a precursor to the current and future influx of American and foreign investment. Built not by Mayans nor Aztecs, this pyramid was built in 1975 by the founders of Plaza del Mar, a laetrile or alternative treatment clinic for cancer patients like actor Steve McQueen, in search of one last attempt at a cure for their disease. The pyramid itself was simply a creative way to disguise the water tank which supplied fresh water to the clinic. The clinic was eventually shut down and the picturesque property was purchased by a wealthy Mexican who turned it into a resort-style hotel. Luring surfers for legendary waves and vacationers with its tennis courts, swimming pool, restaurant and bar, Plaza del Mar operated as a hotel until the owner’s death, when the property was divided among his sons. At the south end remains the Pyramid Resort. The north end has become a new chapter in the Plaza del Mar legend. Today, Hacienda Plaza del Mar boasts beautiful, new homes which take advantage of the location’s magnificent ocean views. Crafted using materials of the highest quality available for the
“Mexican Hacienda” style of architecture, these homes reflect a passion for creating an environment of extraordinary comfort, refined detail and classic old world appeal. Natural brick on facades and at fireplaces and hearths bring earthy warmth. Fountains, iron work and tile adorn these homes with a comfortable old world feel, but with modern day comforts and amenities. With three home styles, each with two- and three-bedroom variations, there is surely a Hacienda home to fit your needs. Form meets function where the Hacienda home meets the outdoors. Lounge in your cozy, open air patio to the relaxing sound of
A D V E RT O R I A L MARCH APRIL 2008
9
M A R C H / A P R I L
C A L E N D A R January through early April is the height of the whale-watching season in Baja California. During this time, Pacific gray whales mate and give birth in shallow coastal lagoons. Even more remarkably, some of the whales exhibit a behavior seldom seen among wild animals: actively seeking interaction with humans. Mothers nudge their babies toward boatloads of tourists, and allow them to stroke their heads, tongues and baleen. Juvenile whales frolic around boats, diving, surfacing and sometimes splashing people with water scooped from their tails.
Who’s Watching Whom?
Friendly Whale Encounters in Baja California by Melanie Lamaga Pacific gray whales were hunted nearly to extinction before the International Whaling Commission enacted a ban in 1946. During the killing years these whales were known as “devil-fish,” because of their fierce attacks on whaling boats. How strange, then, that these same animals, less than 30 years later should choose to behave in a gentle and friendly way toward their former predators. They even trust us enough to let us touch their babies, something no other wild animal does. The first, known, friendly whale encounter occurred in 1972, according to Doug Thompson, author of Whales, Touching the Mystery. A resident of Laguna San Ignacio, Francisco “Pachico” Mayoral, took his panga out to fish in the lagoon. Knowing the gray whales’ reputation for ferocity, Pachico, like other locals, took care to give them plenty of space. On this day, however, a whale approached Pachico’s boat. Frightened, 10
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
he moved away, but the whale followed. Finally, Pachico gave in, knowing there was no way to escape, and that if the whale wanted to, it could smash his small boat with one flip of its massive tail. But that’s not what happened. Instead the whale gently surfaced, poking its head up, right next to Pachico’s boat. Clearly, the whale wanted to interact with him.
for food. However, the only food these whales eat is found on the ocean’s bottom, thousands of miles away in The Bering Sea. According to marine biologist and whale researcher, Jose Angel Sanchez, there is only one explanation for the whales’ behavior: they are as curious about us, as we are about them.
That night Pachico told his friends and family what had happened. They were skeptical, but Pachico convinced some of them to go out on the lagoon with him. Soon he and others experienced more friendly encounters. Over the years the news has spread, and Laguna San Ignacio has become known the world over for having the friendliest whales. In February, during the peak of the season, the number of gray whales in this lagoon averages around 250.
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
Many people wonder why these whales behave as they do. When other wild animals seek out humans, it’s usually
JANUARY - APRIL Whalewatching View the magnificent California gray whales at numerous places along the coast from Ensenada to Cabo San Lucas as they migrate toward their warm breeding grounds along the Baja peninsula’s central Pacific coast. MARCH 14-15 21st Annual Tecate SCORE Baja 250 A race-record field of 394 cars, trucks, motorcycles and ATVs will compete in the challenging 216-mile desert race. beginning in San Felipe. Info: SCORE
including golf, sportfishing, surfing, diving, kayaking, off road exploring, an elegant wine country and fine dining and duty free shopping in nearby Ensenada. a fountain. Host private backyard parties under your pergola. Or wander up the steps for a sunset margarita on the rooftop veranda that looks out to the ocean beyond. Lanuish in the spa, heated pool or on the sundecks of the state-of-the-art private fitness club. Hit the road and a world of other opportunities await. Outside your security gates, the “Gold Coast” of Baja offers an abundance of activities
Incredible natural beauty, affordable coastal living, an abundance of activities and quality medical services are luring more foreigners to Baja. Some are investing for active retirement living. Others are buying vacation homes. Still others are moving to Baja to start new businesses or expand existing ones. Join Americans, Europeans and others as they dine by candlelight, dance to live music and enjoy each others’ company at oceanfront restaurants like La Fonda. Thousands of foreigners have already discovered the culturally rich lifestyle along the Pacific coast of Baja. Enjoy affordable luxury at Hacienda Plaza del Mar, on the beautiful coast of Baja California, just minutes from San Diego. You owe it to yourself! For more information about Hacienda homes at Plaza del Mar, call (from the U.S. (619) 955-7491. In Mexico, call 52 (646) 155-0898 or ddelamora@umbralcapital.com.mx
MARCH APRIL 2008
11
LITTLE TIME, BUT LOVE FISHING ?
Fly to Cedros Island, an outstanding fishing destination, with Cedros Outdoor Adventures. We will have you fishing the best waters off Baja California the same day! Packages include: • Plane, land, and boat transportation • Clean, comfortable hotel accommodations • Meals and bottled water • Guides and escort to and from San Diego
Visit our website for details. www.cedrosoutdooradventures.com info@cedrosoutdooradventures.com
U.S: 1 (619) 793 5419 Mex: 01 (646) 193.2031
Specializing in photography for • architecture & real estate • weddings • portraits • commercial • fine art www.willowriverstudio.com melanie@willowriverstudio.com Toll free (1)877.265.4994 (US) • Mex: (01)646.193.2031 Se habla espanol
12
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
International, U.S. tel. 818-225-8402. March 22-29 The Baja Travesia A five-day extreme endurance competition. Teams from around the globe (each 3 persons, with an SUV support group) arrive in San Felipe to start a 3-5 day nonstop expedition race across the peninsula, involving kayak, mountain bike, running, and a bit of car rally ending in Ensenada. It’s extreme, it’s fun, it’s one of the most grueling endurance competitions in the world. All routes are determined by the team. MARCH 16-23 Holy Week (Semana Santa) Nationwide From Ash Wednesday (beginning of Lent) through to the week after Easter Sunday is the busiest time at all of Mexico’s key attractions. Everywhere you go there will be processions, festivals, parties, fireworks and more! APR 19 San Felipe Blues & Arts Fiesta Live blues, beautiful art & sculpture, amazing talent all encapsulated in cool sea breezes and majestic mountains. An outdoor concert and art event. Held downtown San Felipe at the base of the mountains along the Sea of Cortez. Lion’s Club of San Felipe. $10/advance; $20/day of. 1.877.725.8849 APR 19 Rosarito-Ensenada Fun Ride Head south of the border with 10,000 of your closest amigos for this party on wheels. The event course is 50 miles of paved highway on the old Free Road from Rosarito Beach south to the Finish Line Fiesta in Ensenada. Ride starts at 10 am in front of the Rosarito Beach Hotel. info@rosaritoensenada.com or call (858) 483-8777 APR 25 58th Annual Newport Beach to Ensenada International Yacht Race Yachting competition from Newport Beach, California to Ensenada with more than 50 participating yachts, featuring a festival and ceremony upon their arrival in Ensenada.
GETTING DOWN TO BUSINESS
Yes. You can own property in Mexico.
What you need to know before you buy Since the change in the foreign investment law of December 1993 foreigners can now own land in the formerly restricted zones, those areas within 30 miles of the beach and 50 miles of the border.
ally, the SEC has ruled that a Fideicomiso is equivalent to a “fee simple” title in the U.S. This is how billions of dollars worth of property in Mexico is owned by foreigners.
How it works For non-Mexican citizens, the laws of Mexico established an ordinance where the title is placed in a trust called a “Fedeicomiso” (fee-day-co-mee-so) which acts as and is registered as the legal owner. This ordinance is virtually identical to trusts established in the US to avoid probate.
There is a common misconception among foreigners investing in Mexico that once the trust expires, the beneficiary loses all rights and benefits of the sale of the property held in trust. This is not the case. The trust system of ownership is sanctioned by the Mexican lawt, provided for under the
As the homeowner, you have complete control over the trust and can sell, will, rent or transfer the property at any time. The Fedeicomiso “trust” is established for an initial 50-year term and perpetually renews every 50 years. The cost of establishing the Fedeicomiso “trust” is approximately $500 U.S. dollars and the fee to maintain it is approximately $500 U.S. dollars per year. The Fedeicomiso has a trustee, such as Citibank-Banomex, which acts as a fiduciary on behalf of the homeowner who is the beneficiary of the trust. This is the same as a trust in the United States. Addition-
is extremely important when purchasing property in Mexico that you obtain a title insurance policy. This insures a clean and clear title. The Bottom Line When you have found property that you are interested in acquiring, take care and follow all the formalities under Mexican law. Seek competent legal, tax, and other professional advice before proceeding. Be sure the agent you select to represent you is a member of AMPI, the Mexican National Real Estate Association. Ask for references, check them out.
Mexican constitution, and secured by the bank, thereby offering powerful protection. The government cannot take your land if you have the proper legal title.
Do not make a purchase before your trust has been issued or without a Mexican Notary Public. Your purchase should be an investment, not a gamble. And be patient. Transactions in Mexico can take longer than anticipated.
Title Insurance Title insurance is essential to ensure that you have a free and clear title when you purchase property. Like in the United States and Canada, Title Insurance can be purchased for properties in Mexico. Property titles can be searched back to the first days of the Mexican Replublic. It
The government of Mexico is trying to accommodate foreign investors in the real estate industry, working with U.S. title companies and banks to simplify the process of determining property values, which will make it easier for buyers to purchase property and for lenders to make loans. MARCH APRIL 2008
13
Paula McDonald
Paula McDonald is an award-winning international author and photojournalist. She co-hosted syndicated television and radio talk shows for years, has done national book tours and is an experienced professional speaker. Today, her newest passion is photography and her new Whale Shop. Baja Lifestyle Magazine interviewed Paula at her art-filled home on the beach outside of Rosarito Beach.
How did you come to live here in Baja? I came to Rosarito for the day with a friend I was visiting in San Diego from Wisconsin. That was it! I went home and three months later came back to stay! I It’s a very full and diverse life. My husband Armando and I have a terrific social life on both sides of the border. Home is just fortyfive minutes from downtown San Diego. What has changed since you moved here? When I first moved here seventeen years ago, there was one traffic light downtown Rosarito.You would see horses riding up and down main street or tied up in front of the bank. We have more traffic and more traffic lights now, but it hasn’t changed that much.You still see horses tied up at taco stands. My life, my world here at the beach hasn’t changed at all. I know you can’t stop growth. I just don’t like to see the beach disappearing behind the condos. I only hope they keep up with infrastructure, like water.
You do have to keep an open mind though. There are plenty of differences. Your repairman probably won’t aarrive on time and when he does arrive, he might bring six family members with him. But I consider that to be part of the charm of the culture, not a drawback. You need to get close to the people. And it’s easy to do, but you have to make an effort. Go to local events. Become part of the culture. Part of the art scene. Part of the music scene. This area is very international, a community not of just Mexicans and Gringos, but also Swedes, French, Italians. Walking around with a camera is a good, acceptable way to stick your nose into local goings on. Paul, you’re a self-proclaimed “foodie.” Where is your favorite place to eat? My all time favorite meal in the whole world is at the little family restaurant at Popotla. They have fresh fish that the husband catches each morning. You can actually go to the boat and pick out your fish or crabs and they will flash fry them for you right then or you can take them home and cook them. But my favorite thing they make are these deep fried giant crabs called “martianos” which means martians. And that’s just what they look like. They also flash fry these fresh chopped up clams which are then returned to their shells with cheese and salsa and spices and baked in their shells on a grill. They also make these flash fried shrimp quesadillas. They’re like tempura quesadillas, if you can imagine that. And that is just the hors d’oeuvres! That is best meal of my life! What is your favorite local escape?
I’ve noticed a lot of great art here. Your husband has an art gallery in Rosarito doesn’t he?
I don’t really need an escape! I’m eight steps to the sand!
Yes. It’s like this little clubhouse. Armando writes a column called The Quality of Life for a local Spanish language newspaper, so he is sought out. Artists and clients from all over the world come to visit and hang out. It’s very informal and always interesting. Armando loves to talk politics. He is truly a world thinker.
I love my time alone here. I guess it’s just part of being a writer. But I am also very social and I basicallly import my entertainment, my friends. Between the two of us, we have nine children spread throughout Mexico and the US. They love to come here. Everybody wants to come here!
Baja has become quite an art center. When you go to the cultural center in Tijuana, there are middle and lower class families with their children there.You go to your auto mechanic and he might have Mozart playing in the garage. Every Mexican is a poet. A man is not ashamed to say he writes poetry It’s part of the culture. Art is appreciated by everyone. One of goals of Baja Lifestyle Magazine is to educate people about moving here. What should people be aware of before moving here?
I love my live here!
While It is still a bit of a frontier, it is more “Mexico Light” than Mainland Mexico is. It’s an adventure moving here, but it’s very user friendlly.
14
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
Doug Gould
APR 30 Children’s Day Not a holiday, but it is traditional to give children small presents on this day. Nationwide MAY 3 Pyramid Resort’s Annual Book Signing Public is welcome to this outdoor event featuring popular authors of books about Baja. Music, entertainment and wine tasting. Free. 11 a.m. Information keri1@prodigy.net.mx. MAY 10 Mother’s Day Although this is not a holiday, many local people take a half day off when they can to take their mother out and celebrate this event. Nationwide MAY 18 Vineyards Flowering Festival Ensenada This harvest festival, which marks the initiation of the production of wine grapes, takes place at several wineries in the Guadalupe Valley. Family fair with games, regional food, wine and live entertainment at Mogor Badan Winery. fiestasvendimia@hotmail.com
Longpre Photos
NEWPORT TO ENSENADA INTERNATIONAL YACHT RACE The world’s largest international yacht race takes to the sea for the 61st time this year. Departing Newport at noon on Friday, April 25th, the Newport to Ensenada International Yacht Race promises be be another premier event for spectators and racers again this year, with more than 450 boats expected to participate. The 2008 race theme—“Finishing before Sunrise”—captures the essence of this annual Southern California sailing event which ends with an awards ceremony on Sunday, April 27, at the Bahia Hotel in Ensenada.
Stay at Baja Cove Beach
Located on one of Baja’s most spectacular beaches Short & Long Term House Rentals At Ensenada’s Playa Punta Estero
• 24-Hour Security Community • Meeting/Small Conference Facility • Dock, Boat Launch & Marina • Private Dining Club • Gym/Workout Facilities www.bajacovebeach.com info@ bajacovebeach.com
011(52-646)154-2162
Toll Free (877) 582-4951
MARCH APRIL 2008
15
Rustico Style
16
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
le at Casa Lana f
rom the street, the subtle hints to the magic
that lies within the earthy, peach stucco walls are the abundant flowers and the rams head spouts jutting out between aged wood beams. Once through the massive wooden doors though, you are transported back in time hundreds of years. Saltillo-tiled steps lead down from the ancient doors, the adjacent wall encrusted with broken pots, assorted bricks and smooth beach rocks. Aged wood, jagged terrra cotta, rusted iron fixtures and cool moss-encircled stepping stones assure you that the damp salt air is constantly at work here. Water spills from an embedded urn and washes down one section of the wall into the shallow trough below, lined with bright purple lobelia and red geraniums. The bougainvillea vines are in such heavy bloom that they bathe this extraordinary place in a brilliant fuchsia glow. You have arrived at “Casa Lana.” Lana Jordan had a feeling that she would eventually end up living in Mexico. “I first came here as a teenager.” says Jordan, adding, “I was captivated and have been drawn back to its magic ever since – drawn to the land, the people, and, oh, the food!” In 1988, Lana met Drew Juvinall who became her business partner as well as her life partner. Drew was no stranger to Mexico, himself. Some of his own fondest memories are of his visits there, mostly scuba diving in the Sea of Cortez. Their commercial real estate business in Visalia kept them busy, but not too busy to keep them from dreaming about a different life south of the border.
MARCH APRIL 2008
17
After occasional trips south to explore Northern Baja’s rugged coastline, growing towns and sandy beaches, they finally bought a narrow lot perched above a long stretch of Mexican beach. Lana and Drew finally headed south to create new Mexico adventures and memories together. Lana sought to design and build a home on the narrow lot that would suit their lifestyle and their tastes, She drew inspiration from the architecture they found in Tuscany, Cinque Terra & the Amalfi Coast of Italy, with elements from old Colonial Mexican cities like Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende. Lana’s design ideas, however, called for building materials not readily available at the local home supply stores. They scrounged the rock quarries in the hills for different types of rock. Using the 1988 Dodge Ram 4-wheel-drive pickup Drew imported across the border, they handpicked and transported bricks from the brickyards in local towns and other building materials from remote villages. Lana designed and built the perimeter walls of the property using dead trees discovered in nearby creek beds. Bathroom and fireplace walls were built from rocks handpicked by Lana from the twelve tons brought up from the beach by her workers. 18
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
On one of her foraging trips, Lana saw old gnarly sticks in a pea field west of Ensenada. “I need those sticks.” she told the farmer. Over the next couple of days, Lana hauled away four truckloads of the poles that the farmer sold to her for a dollar a pole. They now shade the patio that looks out onto the ocean. One day, in a nearby village, Lana noticed some local men adding an old beam to a fire. She stopped and rescued the beam in trade for a six pack of Tecate beer and the massive treasure now boasts a majestic position above wooden French doors in Casa Lana. Lana built a small, casita in which she
could live while building the rest of the house. She shopped Rosarito, Ensenada and beyond for wooden doors and windows, carved stone basins and other antique architectural elements to incorporate into her design. With the constant companionship of her German Shepherd Chance, and the help of a growing team of Mexican workers, she worked diligently, adding her creative touches and found and purchased building materials as she went. Her works called her “La Loca” because they thought she was crazy for building an “old casa” when she could build a “nice, new American” home. From the entry garden and outdoor living room of “Casa Lana” there is an
unobstructed view through the kitchen, dining and living rooms and huge arched windows and doors to the long expanse of patio and the sea beyond. Huge arches, 14-foot-high ceilings with worm eaten beams, nooks and crannies, and fireplaces in every bedroom add to the allure of the 3,500-square-foot home. The walls are awash with subtle glazes of color that emphasize the ages. The front doors are 18th Century from Morelia. Additional doors, cabinetry and fireplaces were all designed by Lana. The great fireplaces were built by one of Baja’s best fireplace maestros and the two brick cupola ceilings were constructed by expert craftsmen from Guadalajara. Kitchen countertops and island surfaces are handcrafted of concrete, a process Lana developed and perfected with her workers. The furnishings from the Green Acres house blend flawlessly with the mix of Mexican antiques, ancient architectural elements and native crafted urns, ironwork and textiles. Paintings by artist Lola Collins that once hung in the family grocery store in Exeter look right at home alongside fine tapestries and he couple’s collection of skeletal “catrinas” by artist Juan Torres of Michoacan. Huge arched doors lead out to the multileveled patio with its large sunken Jacuzzi pool. Broad steps lead down to a brick firepit and an expansive palapa-covered outdoor room with a bar, a seating area, a cozy, corner fireplace and even a wine cellar. Beyond is the beach with endless shifting sands and rocks like the ones that found their ways into the walls of Casa Lana. The original casita has become a guesthouse, Self contained with a kitchen, office area, private bath and its own adobe fireplace, it is rustic and comfortable. Native textiles and books add to the feeling that you are cloistered in a room at an old monastery for a peaceful retreat from the outside world. It looks
Doug Gould
Opposite: Large arched windows provide an unobstructed view past the palapa and firepit to the waves below (top). Lana and Drew enjoy a sunset margarita in the company of Bravo (bottom). Above: View of the palapa kitchen that overlooks the ocean.
Punto Chivato
Luxury home sites on the beach at spectacular Rancho Partera Build your custom dream home or we can build it for you on the beach in one of the most beautiful and pristine natural environments in all of Baja. Just steps to the water. • 1/4 acre lots with 78-foot wide ocean front • adjoining lots available • excellent neighbors • near Mulege and Santa Rosalia • private airstrip, boutique hotel & restaurant
From $100,000 Vicki & Jim Hagan midwifevicki@ranchopartera.com Toll Free 1-866-727-8372
MARCH APRIL 2008
19
Doug Gould
out onto the patio and is separated from the rest of the house by the talavera tiled stairway that winds up to the roof. The rooftop is a sundeck, with built in benches and decorated with potted plants and sculptural chimneys. The view of long stretches of beach, distant islands, sand dunes and chimneys and domes of nearby rooftops are reminiscent of an ancient city. But the rooftop also reveals hints of twenty-first century realities that are forgotten upon entering “Casa Lana” –- satellite dishes and wiry clues to high tech connections to the modern world. Drew says that Lana must be an “old soul” because everything she likes and builds has an “old world” feel. She admits that, while they appear old, the handcrafted and hand-formed details that make them so are costly and would be prohibitively expensive to build in the states. And no one has been more surprised than Lana has been at the reactions her house has received. She has had a steady stream of designers, artists, builders and architects wanting to see her house, some boldly knocking on her door begging for a tour, wanting to know what style of architecture it is. “It’s just my own style,” replies Jordan. “I just build what I like,” adding, “I’ve started calling it ‘Rustico’ because of its rustic quality.”
20
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
The home would be a magnificent accomplishment even for a veteran homebuilder, and is nothing less than remarkable for an American woman with a vision of a life in Mexico.
The home would be a magnificent accomplishment even for a veteran homebuilder, and is nothing less than remarkable for an American woman with a vision of a life in Mexico. Lana has now built seven structures using the same “rustico” approach, incorporating 18thand 19th century mesquite doors and shutters from Mérida and Oaxaca as well as some 17th century pieces from India, but with all the modern conveniences of the twentyfirst century. Asked how many more homes she plans to build, Lana replies that, “As long as we’re still having fun, I’ll keep doing this. We love it here.” Says Drew, “It’s a huge project, but there is only so much coastal area left and we know there are plenty of people who want and can afford the lifestyle that we enjoy here,” adding, “Sailing, sportfishing, mountain biking, horseback riding and an incredible wine country are just a few of the activities we have access to here.” Drew may call Lana an “old soul” and her workers may call her “La Loca” but a visit to Casa Lana proves beyond a doubt that Lana Jordan Juvinall designs and builds an exceptional home. And that, together, Lana and Drew have built an exceptional life in Mexico – the quintessential life from the dreams of a teenager and her soul mate.
Baja authors and fans descend on Pyramid Resort once again by Martina
Every year, high on a scenic bluff overlooking the sparkling Pacific, an event unique to Northern Baja takes place at the Pyramid Resort. The Baja Author’s Book Signing and Wine Tasting event is hosted annually by owners of the resort who offer their scenic outdoor patio areas up to authors who have written about their adventures and love of the Baja peninsula. The books are as diverse as Baja itself, and the stories are of unique experiences as seen through the eyes of American writers. Much of the peninsula’s modern history would have been lost were it not for these contributions and unique perspectives. The setting is spectacular. A patio graced with lovely gardens and water fountains, lends a relaxing atmosphere. Adding to the allure is the frequent sightings of dolphins swimming near the shoreline or whales returning north after their migration to southern Baja. Wine tasting booths allow guests to experience fine, locally grown organic reds and whites while chatting with authors.
Visitors are inspired by the Baja experiences they read about, some inspired enough to leave the comfort of home (or hotel) for a first hand experience of life, to broaden their own knowledge of what Baja has to offer.
A lively Spanish dance exhibition breaks into the soft sounds of the ocean and laughter of visitors. Last year, all activity also came to a halt when super sleuth author Murdock Hughes (Murder in La Paz) dropped in (literally) for a visit like the hero of one of his novels.
This year, the 6th Annual Baja Author’s Book Signing and Wine Tasting event will be held on Saturday, May 3rd at 11 a.m. The public is invited. Among those expected at this year’s event are Gil Sperry, author of Mariachi for Gringos, “desert rat” Bernie Swaim, who wrote Bouncing Around Baja. and Graham MacIntosh, well known author of Into a Desert Place. MacIntosh’s much awaited Marooned With Very Little Beer is soon to be released. Also expected at the signing event are Martina Dobesh, known for her spiritual look at Baja in her book Call from the Heart and Ralph Amey, author of guides to Guadalupe Valley, Baja’s wine country.
Books on the historic missions, beautiful Baja photography, a guide to Baja’s wine country. Mysteries. The romance for which Latin America is famous. They can all be found at this casual spring event.
Staying overnight at Pyramid Resort is a convenient and special way to make the booksigning event truly a getaway to remember. And, who knows what the next chapter might hold in store in the shadow of the pyramid? MARCH APRIL 2008
21
What would possess otherwise seemingly normal adults to embark on a challenge that sends them through a rough Pacific by kayak, then across the rugged Baja Peninsula by foot, bicycle, rapelling lines and off road vehicles?
BAJA TRAVESIA
CHALLENGE ACROSS THE When asked, answers range from, “the people” and “the beautiful places” to “the team dynamic.” But “the reward of the challenge as it becomes an accomplishment” is perhaps the most poignant response from participants of the Baja Travesia when asked why they take part in this brutally challenging competition. Extremists from ten countries around the world return this March to team up for this grueling challenge for the third time. Details and descriptions from the 2007 Baja Travesia perhaps best illustrate what these athletes endure in their attempts to win, or even finish the challenges set forth by the rules of the race, and the rough terrain of Baja. The tone of this non-stop, five-day race was set in the first section when teams had to confront an angry ocean that tested everyone’s paddling skills with massive swells on an exhilarating but tense 56 km course along the rocky shore. Teams began with an epic paddle through swells up to 10-20 feet. While a few teams demonstrated a mastery of their boats - and a little luck - to complete the paddle unscathed, many others were not so fortunate and had tall tales to tell of boats exploding against jagged cliffs and harrowing rescues. By the time the night fell, all teams were safe but eight boats had been lost and a few teams had to spend the night on the coast with no food and only their soaked paddle gear.
Team Equinox Photo
Despite the chaos of the first section, most teams kept going for the remainder of the race, a testament to the tenacity and perseverance of those who embark on the amazing journey that is the Baja Travesia.
22
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
The next day of racing, teams mountain biked wind swept cow trails along the coast before beginning their journey inland with a series of stunning trekking and biking sections that took them to the foothills of the Sierras, the 9,000 foot mountainous ramparts that separate northern Baja’s west coast from it’s warmer east coast.
Team Equinox photo
PENINSULA
Team Dart nunn photo
Donato Polignone
by Thora Guthrie
The way across the Sierras was via a 18-30 hour canyoneering section through immense canyons with sheer walls some more than 300 feet straight up. Teams were required to climb up a canyon on the west side to the “top of the world” at 2,410 meters which offered teams an absolutely spectacular view of the Esperanza Canyon snaking its way down to the desert floor with mainland Mexico in the distance. The descent down the Esperanza Canyon was punctuated with dozens of waterfalls, swimming pools, and rappels. “Absolutely incredible,” proclaimed contestant Jen Segger-Gigg as she came out of the canyon after an 18 hour journey. “We spent all night finding our way through a maze of boulders and cliffs where, most likely, no other humans have been before us, except for the race organizers.” Contestants emerged out of the canyon to confront an exciting 100 km auto rally in true Baja style where the teams had to navigate through a network of dusty buggy tracks through the desert. “The rally was a relief for our sore feet but after two and a half hours in the vehicle, we felt as stiff and brittle as uncooked spaghetti,” noted Cyril. The next leg of the race was a simple but long desert trek in the heat of the day to the water’s edge. The final paddle was a welcome change from the heat of the desert and was in striking contrast to the Pacific paddle. Only a few ripples appeared on the water as the team glided the final 14 km into the hustle and bustle of San Felipe in full Spring Break celebration. The 2007 Baja Travesia is sure to go down in the record books as one of the most demanding expedition races in North America. This year’s teams and support crews will arrive in San Felipe in mid March to prepare for the 2008 Travesia which begins on March 22 and ends with a celebration in Ensenada on March 29.
“As I watched a Mexican Navy coast guard cutter off in the distance pulling in an abandoned kayak, the entire vessel disappear in the troughs of the swells. And, I was standing on a cliff about 100 feet or more above the shore!” Erik Nachtrieb DART-nunn team manager
The 2008 edition of Baja Travesia will be run in the opposite direction of the 2007 Baja Travesia, beginning in San Felipe and ending in Ensenada. Paddleboarding has also been added this year. Last year’s competition included a 56 Km kayak, then a 50K bike followed by a 16K trek. Another bike section of 58K uphill and a 17K cross-country trek. Then a 28K bike in the mountains and an 18K canyon section. An auto rally section (100K) and a final 10K desert trek to the boats for a 14K paddle on the Sea of Cortez.
MARCH APRIL 2008
23
A Penchant for by Carlos Garcia-Travesi Bosch and Steve Dryden Photography by Doug Gould
Ensenada is famous for it’s abundant seafood, culinary delights and high quality wine. So, it is no surprise that gourmet paella can be found in the region prepared with various seafood items, beef, pork, chicken, fresh vegetables, herbs and other innovative ingredients. In fact, paella is so popular in the area that each year a paella cooking contest is included in the annual wine harvest festival held every August in Valle de Guadalupe. It was the Spanish who in the 1500’s first introduced paella and wine to Mexico, beginning the transformation and assimilation of two traditional treasures into a land and culture with unique culinary talents and winemaking skills. Mexico gladly accepted these gifts, making it theirs with fresh, local ingredients and the rest is history! And, like the Baja Caifornia Tempranillo is surpassing the original Spanish Tempranillos at international wine competitions, paella from this area is considered some of the best in the world. 24
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
Paella is a traditional Spanish dish originating in Valencia following the introduction of rice in Spain by the Moors. The peasants of Valencia would use the paella pan to cook rice with readily available ingredients from local gardens and farms. Most recipes were developed around the availability of fresh produce, meat, poultry or seafood. Paella is traditionally cooked outside over an open wood fire, usually on Sundays when the extended family is assembled. Many varieties of paella are found from Spain and Italy to Mexico, with each region contributing to its own variation. The traditional Paella Valencia often contains chicken, duck, rabbit and snails. Popular variations on the classic preparation include Paella Andalucia often cooked with prawns, mussels, clams, chicken, rabbit, pork and sausage. Paella Marinera, found in the south of Spain, is made with seafood and is similar to paella made in Ensenada. Paella is usually prepared for large groups for special occasions and in huge quantities in a large pan called a
Roganto Chardonnay We serve Capricho’s Paella with a reserve Chardonnay from Roganto or Vides y Vinos Californianos S.P.R. de R.L. This elegant and delightful Chardonnay is aged in new French oak for ten months, has a creamy, butter flavor, with hints of apricot and butterscotch in the nose, well balanced with a smooth and soft finish. Roganto Winery of Ensenada is considered by experts to be one of the top wineries in Mexico.
Paella “paellera” from which the dish gets its name. Chef Carlos Garcia-Travesi Bosch of Capricho’s Restaurant in Ensenada prepared this paella for good friend Carlos Miranda’s fortieth birthday celebration. Earlier in the day, we ventured down to the fish market and to the local butcher shop to get the freshest possible ingredients for the event. That same morning we prepared a fish broth using halibut and vegetables and precooked the chicken, beef, pork and chorizo sausage. Later, outside on the patio, we set up the paella pan and the charcoal in preparation for cooking this celebrated dish on a cool February evening under the stars. The traditional way of preparing paella outside among guests turns the paella into the focus of the event. Guests watch as the chef prepares the meal over flaming coals while the aroma fills the air with anticipation, stimulating appetites and imaginations. Chef Carlos Traversi credits the success of his paella to the use of an abundance of fresh, local ingredients like seafood,
pork, beef, chicken, chorizo and vegetables. Another key factor is the use of the traditional stainless steel paella pan from Spain which allows the rice to cook evenly. The pan Carls uses for his recipe is about thirty-six inches in diameter and sits atop a custom made frame that allows charcoal to be raised up towards the bottom of the pan or lowered to reduce heat as needed. According to Chef Carlos, “making paella is like making love, it takes passion and sincerity to be successful. You have to put your soul into it, so when your lips and senses make first contact with my culinary creation you realize this is something special - something from the heart.” Carlos Garcia-Travesi Bosch is owner and chef of Capricho’s Restaurant, a popular restaurant serving classic international dishes. Capricho’s is located in Ensenada, across from the original Hussong’s Cantina. Contact cgravesi@caprichos.com.mx. Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer who lives in Valle de Guadalupe. Contact sbdryden@hotmail.com. MARCH APRIL 2008
25
Capricho’s Mixed Spanish Paella Ingredients Two kilos of chicken legs, two kilos of beef ribs, one kilo of pork, one kilo of chorizo, three kilos of small clams (in shell), one kilo of shrimp, two kilos of mussels, one kilo of calimari, one pound of green beans, one pound of peas, one pound of fresh bell peppers, one cup of chopped garlic, one cup of chopped onion, four kilos of rice, five grams of saffron, one handful of sea salt, one liter of olive oil, and one half liter of white wine that you plan to match the paella with. Directions Precook beef, pork, chorizo and chicken. Create two liters of fish broth by cooking down halibut (or other white fish) and vegetables with fresh herbs. Heat pan, add olive oil and when it heats up stir in bell peppers for about twenty minutes, then add garlic, onions and chopped tomatoes for five minutes, add saffron, 1/4 cup of tomato paste, add rice, 1/2 liter of white wine, fish broth, shrimp, chorizo, calimari, beef, pork, chicken, mussels, sea salt, peas, and green beans. Cover with foil, reduce heat and cook for an additional forty-five minutes or until rice is tender. Serves thirty people. Cooking time is about 2 hours.
La Elegancia Contemporary condos above a secluded cove on Baja’s Gold Coast With the Baja Mountains to the East and a secluded beach cove below, the view is overwhelming. • Minutes from San Diego • Beautiful landscaping • One-, two- and three-bedroom units • Close to restaurants, stores, shopping • Gated Community with pools, spas, gym, movie theater
Km 35 - Tijuana-Ensenada Highway
from the U.S. 619.955.7609 info@laeleganciarosarito.com www.laeleganciarosarito.com
26
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
Emergency Tourist Assistance Hotline Information, orientation, support and follow-up for any situation the tourist visiting Baja California may demand, it operates 7 days a Week, 24 hours a day.
I CAN HELP! Before you throw your computer in the ocean Before you give up on being able to speak Spanish
CALL ME!
BAJA BEACH GEEK SPANISH CLASSES COMPUTER ASSISTANCE Located in the La Misi贸n area (KM 62 off the free road) halfway between Rosarito & Ensenada
AFFORDABLE & RELIABLE HOUSECALLS MX (646) 155-0958 US (619) 758-4067 rob@bajabeachgeek.com www.bajabeachgeek.com
Whether you are staying in our Hotel, relaxing in our Spa or enjoying the breathtaking ocean views from the restaurant, La Fonda provides a safe, tranquil retreat.
Try our Sunday Brunch U.S. 011-52-646-155-0308 Reservations@lafondabaja.com Km59.5 Tijuana-Ensenada Free Road MARCH APRIL 2008
27
On the go to Chi
Affectionately known as “Chi chi,� Chichicastenango is home to the center of trade in Guatemala and what is possibly the most colorful market in the western hemisphere. 28
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
Chi
I
Story and photography by Carole Firstman I was traveling alone in Guatemala – a forty-something woman with but a few words of Spanish in my repertoire. Although I’ve long admired those go-anywhere-alone people who make friends and meet other travelers along the way, I never thought I’d be one of them. While I crave travel that requires yellow fever vaccines and malaria pills, my husband does not – so we long ago agreed that four-star destinations would be our “together trips” and I’d venture with like-minded friends down the roads less traveled. My first solo experience evolved in medias res, in the middle of a two-week trip to Guatemala during the rainy season. I’d gone with a fellow female friend from my hometown. After a week of backpacking from town to town, my water logged, weary pal wanted to relax in the colonial capitol of Antigua for the rest of the trip, but I still had some remote places to check off my list – and souvenirs to buy. So, with quetzales in one pocket (and a few bills in my shoe), a newly purchased Guatemalan cell phone in the other pocket and a Spanish phrase book in hand, I set out for the Mayan Highlands – alone. One of my favorite stops was the quiet town of Chichicastenango – quiet, but with a few surprises. “Chichi”(as it is called by the locals) is a small, stucco-white settlement surrounded by thick pine forests, perched high atop volcanic mountain crests. About 90 miles northwest of Guatemala City, it is about a 5-hour drive from the Mexico’s southern border. Narrow cobblestone streets converge on a wide-open plaza where most days you can find a few old men passing the time in silence. Twice a week, though, sleepy Chichi comes alive, hosting the biggest, most colorful indigenous market in Latin America’s entire Mayan region. Long before dawn every Thursday and Sunday, traders arrive from miles away (many walking for
hours) to set up their stalls by candlelight. By sunrise the roads into town are crammed with trucks, trailers, and the ever-famous “chicken buses” (multicolored, old American school buses used for public transportation). Row upon row of colorful stalls fill the main square and overflow into the adjoining streets and alleyways. By mid-morning the crowd is so thick you can hardly walk through the dizzying array of goods for sale. Handicrafts, intricately woven fabrics, masks, food, flowers, pottery, wood carvings, medicinal plants, candles, pom and copal (traditional incense), cal (lime for preparing tortillas), grindstones, pigs and chickens, machetes – these and more can be found within an endless maze of vendors. Short of venturing to the scattered, isolated villages, this is the best place in the country to buy textiles and handicrafts – provided your haggling skills are well honed. The chicken bus between Mayan villages is cheap, but not for the faint of heart. They are crammed so full of people and farm goods (and yes, chickens!) that folks literally hang out the doors and windows, constantly stopping to pick up even more passengers, so the going is slow. These buses are part of what makes the Guatemalan countryside so picturesque, though – decorated according to the driver’s tastes and named for his current girlfriend. Most tourists prefer to take the slightly more expensive “chartered” minivan, which will likely stop for additional riders, but is much faster than the bus. Either way, the MARCH APRIL 2008
29
journey is an adventure in itself. Eager to get shopping, I opted for the van. To my delight, we picked up several Mayan families also making their way to the market. The woman next to me said something in Maya as she pulled a warm tortilla from her basket. I gratefully accepted. Grey clouds gave way to a blue sky as we sat snuggly in the vehicle (10 seats, 20 of us). As we approached Chichi, I noticed a cluster of candycolored buildings in the distance. “Que es?” I asked the woman and pointed out the window, but her flurry of words meant nothing to my American ears. Once we disembarked I decided to investigate before venturing into the market. Located on the edge of town, Chichi’s cemetery is one of the most colorful in the Western Highlands. Mausoleums the size of small houses are painted in brilliant shades of orange, yellow, teal, and blue. Headstones topped with massive, name-bearing crosses nestle among spent candles, fire-blackened rocks and miniature churches ablaze with color. As I meandered up the hill, enjoying the warmth of the sun on my back and the quiet solitude of this peaceful place, I heard the faint sound of voices – guteral and soulful. I followed the sound to find several old women chanting and swinging incense burners. I watched for just a few moments, keeping my distance so as not to disturb what I assumed to be a private Mayan ritual. From the cemetery I headed straight for the market. I was overcome by the energy there – the hue of textiles, the buzz of a language I didn’t speak. Overcrowded pathways were stuffed with the hallmarks of Chichi’s handicraft fame, but I decided to people-watch and take a few photos before making any purchases. I lost track of time strolling through the unbelievably dense beehive of activity. Tired, I came to rest at the base of the 400-year-old Iglasia de Santo Tomas, which sits in the middle of the market-filled plaza. The air surrounding huge, crescent-shaped, white stone steps is thick with the sweet, smoky aroma of smoldering pine-based incense and flickering candles. Women hawk bouquets of fresh flowers. The church dates back to 1540 and is one of the most fascinating in all of Guatemala. Built atop a Pre-Columbian platform, the original preHispanic, Mayan temple steps remain intact. Shamans still use the grounds for their rituals while church officials look the other way. Sometimes the shamans even sacrifice a chicken to the gods. Each of the eighteen steps represents one month of the Maya calendar year. The atmosphere inside is magical, with the aisles and alter packed with softly praying men, women and children. Hundreds of candles burn in large rectangle boxes on the floor. Pictures and statues of Jesus, Mary,
and other saints are surrounded by brightly-dyed ostrich feathers, liquor, oil, and flowers. These Christian-Mayan infused platforms are spread throughout the church, each dedicated to the souls of the deceased and the good fortunes of the living. It was on the church steps that I met and hired an English (sort of) speaking Mayan guide who took me inside the church, explained the rituals, and told me about the SunMoon Holiday that was being celebrated that very day. Surprise number three, coming up. Another sacred site in Chichi sits on a hill just outside town. Pascual Abaj is a twenty-minute walk from the plaza. “We must hurry,” my guide said, if we wanted to catch the ceremonies. We trudged uphill, crossed a faintly tricking stream, and hiked the trail between family gardens and modest homes where embroidered clothes dried on lines. High above the neighborhood, we finally arrived, breathless. Surrounded by burnt flower offerings, “Idolo,” a blackened pre-Columbian sculpture, stood guard over the town below. There were still a few natives present, chanting solemnly over plums of copal. I stood in the shade of the pines, honored to be a witness. “Would you like to meet the shaman?” my guide asked as we made our way down the hill. We went into a crowded courtyard that adjoined several homes in town. It was part party, part holy, very much Mayan. Outside, men with wooden masks danced in
30
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
costumes covered with beads and feathers while drummers, flutists, and marimba players pounded lively rhythms. We pushed our way into a dark, candle-filled sanctuary where young couples knelt before the shaman to receive blessings upon their upcoming weddings. The shaman approached me. He placed his palm upon my head, closed his eyes, then spoke something I did not understand. He says you will have a safe journey home,” my guide interpreted. “And a blessing upon your family.”
UNEX-
“We must hurry,” my guide said again, for he knew I had a ride to catch. We shook hands goodbye at the edge of the market. The sky darkened overhead. I quickly bought an orange soda then hoofed it highspeed, almost running. It was late and the vendors were breaking down their stalls as late-staying tourists bargained hard for their final purchases. I made it to the bus stop just in time. Rain gushed as the 4:00 bus rolled from Chichi that afternoon. I was dry inside, destined for the next stop
on my solo escapade. “What did you buy at the market,” my husband asked when I called to check in with him that night. “Well, nothing, come to think of it,” I said. “Unless you count the soda.” “I’m shocked,” he laughed. “Me, too. It was the best shopping day of my life.”
MARCH APRIL 2008
31
INSIDERS GUIDE TO NORTHERN BAJA HOTELS/RESORTS Estero Hotel & Resort Estero Beach, Ejido Chapultepec; From US 011-52-(646) 176 - 6225; info@hotelesterobeach.com; www.hotelesterobeach.com El Rey Sol Restaurant Avenida Lopez Mateos 1000; Ensenada; From US: 011-52-646-1781733; Fax: 011-52-646-178-1405; Deyanira@ElReySol.com www.ElReySol.com Cedros Outdoor Adventures offering sport fishing and adventure expeditions to Cedros and San Benito Islands. These unique eco-systems resemble the California coast as it was 50 years ago -- unpolluted and thriving with sea life. Activities to choose from include: open RESTAURANTS Capricho’s Restaurant And Riedel Wine Bar 138 Ave. Ruiz, Zona Centro Ensenada (01152-646-178-3433). Open Mon.Thurs., 1 p.m.-midnight; Fri.-Sat., 1 p.m.1 a.m.; Sun., 1 p.m.-8 p.m. El Rey Sol Restaurant Avenida Lopez Mateos 1000; Ensenada; From US: 011-52-646-1781733; Fax: 011-52-646-178-1405; Deyanira@ElReySol.com www.ElReySol.com El Nido Blvd. Benito Juarez No. 67, Rosarito Chabert’s Rosarito Beach Hotel; Blvd. Benito Juarez No 31, Rosarito
La Fonda Km 59.9 Rosarito-Ensenada free road; From US 011-52-646-1550307; Reservations@LaFondaBaja.com
La Fonda Km 59.9 Rosarito-Ensenada free road; From US 011-52-646-1550307; Reservatio ns@LaFondaBaja.com
Sano’s Km 108 Tijuana-Ensenada ; Ensenada ADVENTURE/SPORTS TOURS WINERIES Bodegas de Santo Tomas Free Daily Tours Every Hour From 9: 00am-5:00pm Monday-Saturday/Sundays 10:00am-4:00pm. Restaurant & Cafe * Cultural Center * Gourment Shop Ave. Miramar #666 * Tel: (646) 1780836 Cavas Valmar Free Tours & Wine Tasting by Appointment. Calle Ambar #810 * Tel: (646) 178-6405 Adobe Guadalupe Hwy 3, Guadalupe Valley * Tel: (646) 155-2094 * Fax: (646) 155-2093 Bodegas San Antonio Hwy 3, Guadalupe Valley * Tel: (646) 174-0078 Domecq Guided Tours, Tasting & Sales of Wines & Brandies; One of Mexico’s Oldest Wine Makers; Open: M-F 10am-4pm, Sat. 10am-1:30pm; Hwy 3, Km. 73 * Tel: (646) 155 2254
Cedros Outdoor Adventures offering sport fishing and adventure expeditions to Cedros and San Benito Islands. These unique eco-systems resemble the California coast as it was 50 years ago -- unpolluted and thriving with sea life. Open panga fishing, hiking diverse terrain that includes desert, rare pine forest, endemic plants, elephant seal breeding colonies, bird watching, photo safaris, tours of lobster and abalone fisheries and snorkeling. COA flies you there, which means you will start your sport fishing or eco-adventure the same day! Baja Air Adventures Surfing safaris, wilderness retreats, whale sharks tours, sea kayaking, whale watching, sportfishing, surfing (air to surf spots), missions & cave paintings; 1-800-221-WAVE (9283); bajaair@cox.net Gordo’s Sportfishing Sportfishing charters, whale watching, bay tours, surf & dive trips; Blvd. Costero & Ave. Macheros; from US 011-52-(646) 178-3515
SPAS Baja Country Club Casa Natalie 18 hole course with par 72; Mexico Hwy. 1; Km 103.3 Carretera Tijuana-Ensenada; #7263, El Sauzal de Rodriguez, Ensena- from US 011-52-646-154-0220 da, BC 22760; From USA toll free 1(888) 562-8254; In Mexico 01(646) 174-7373; reservations@casanatalie.com; www.casanatalie.com;
NO PASSPORTS REQUIRED Until recently, Customs & Border Protection (CBP) was saying that full implementation of the Westerrn Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI) could be as early as summer of this year. This is the law requiring passports for travel between the United States and Mexico. CPB now has posted on its website that full implementation will not take place before June of 2009.
32
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
This means that land travelers to Baja will not need to show a passport (or similar document) upon their return to to U.S. before that time. As of this past Jan. 31, a government-issued photo ID and proof of citizenship (such as a birth certificate) were required for U.S. citizens older than 18. On Feb. 1, applications for the less expensive passport card began to be accepted. More details are available at http://www.cbp.gov.
INSIDERS GUIDE TO NORTHERN BAJA GALLERIES Galeria del Mar Art, sculpture, framing; Rosarito Beach Hotel Shops, Rosarito Galeria Frida Frames paintings; across from Festival Plaza Galeria Giorgio Santini (Fine Art and Jewlery Gallery) (661) 614-1459; www.giorgiosantini.com Polo’s Gallery Fine art, paintings; Popotla, just south of Fox Studios; (661) 100 2475; www.polosgallery.com
Calderon Arte y Diseño Art & wrought iron. (661) 613 19 82 Casa Real Fine Furniture; k31 Rosarito-Ensenada; (661) 612 5726 US (619) 405 8059 Joanna Jones Galeria Art gallery & outdoor restaurant. Km 47.6 Cantamar. MX 614.0823. joann.joannajones@gmail.com La Esquina de Bodegas Calle 6 & Av. Miramar, Ensenada
Gallery Sol Rojo 29.5 Rosarito-Ensenada Free Road
ARTS/CULTURAL CENTERS Tijuana Cultural Center (CECUT) 9350 Avenue Paseo de Los Héroes, Zona Rio, Tijuana. The center is composed of a theater, lecture rooms, video rooms, a library, an exhibition hall, the Museum of the Californias, a futuristic planetary movie theater that displays IMAX films, and a restaurant. CECUT receives about a million visitors per year, making it Baja California’s most important cultural center. Ensenada State Center of the Arts (CEARTE) Blvd. Lazaro Cardenas & Avenuda Club Rotario in Ensenada. Opened in 2007, this modern, spacious facility ushers in a new era in public art and culture available at no cost to visitors and citizens. The center offers not only art and sculpture displays, but lectures by well known authors, puppet shows for children, concerts and more.
A series of huge, kinetic sculptures stand guard in front of Ensenada State Center of the Arts (CEARTE) which opened last year with an exhibit by illustrious Mexican painter and muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros.
Local artist Becris paints wonderfully impressionistic local scenes in vivid colors. His work can be seen at Polo’s Gallery, just south of Rosarito on the free road.
MARCH APRIL 2008
33
UNEXPECTED BAJA
Accidental Heritage by Barbara Goodwin One of the curiosities in Baja California is the inordinate number on their own against the British. But English crews were in equally of Mexicans and Indigenous Indians with British, Irish, Welsh and Scot- desperate straits. tish names, especially in and near Cabo San Lucas. What would have made the English sailors desperate enough to Since Mexico is not a country of immigrants in the same sense want to escape life at sea for such a God-forsaken place like the tip of as the U.S. one has to wonder how such names as Kennedy, Leggs, Baja? There was often abuse, sickness, poor supplies and numbing boreMcFarland, O’Sullivan, et al came to be part of Mexican population. dom; endless oceans with nothing to break the routine. Perhaps one fell One has to go back at least 400 years to a time steeped in fact, not overboard or was thrown over in battle. There is also another intriguing fiction. possibility. A labyrinth of caves line the shore of the Penninsula - ideal British author Daniel DeFoe got the idea for “Robinson Crusoe” for hiding booty secure. when a sailor told him a tale of being on board a ship that happened Baja was believed to be a series of small islands then. What awaited upon a desert island call San Fernando off the coast of Equador. They explorers was a sparce landscape where the cactus grew right to the encountered a wretch of a man barely alive. Tattered rags hung from ocean. There was little or no water, low rainfall, hurricanes, desert and his skeletal body. He had only a vague recollection of how long he’d craggy rock. Their diet would have been little more than seafood for been there but he told the crew that he was Alexander Selkirk, an they surely could see no use for the cactus. They may have encounEnglishman. In an act of desperation with his life at sea he had jumped tered an occasional goat, rabbits, lizards, snakes, but their amunition ship. would have quickly run out. They would have met Indigenous Indians, When the public read “Robinson Crusoe” they thought it was descendants of hunter gatherers.. fiction. But the story of Selkirk/Crusoe was not only not fiction; it was The men mated with the Indian women and life probably settled into a certain tranquility as they learned not unique. One of the most dangerous places Thankfully everything that those to survive, as the Indians did, until 1596 to sail during the period between 1530 desperate souls saw when they when General Sebastiano Viscaino arrived to provide protection for Spanish Galleons and the 1800’s was the Baja Penninsula. and “civilize” and convert the Indians. To Spanish ships coming from the Orient chose a life on Baja still exists. were loaded with exotic spices, rare silks, jewels, perfumery and gold their horror, British rag-tags were living among them, having children with - rich pickings for pirates, mostly British ships with no trading rights the women and worst of all, these Englishmen were not Catholics but heathens! Thus for a time the Inquisition was instituted in Baja. with the East. Viscaino went on to conquer new regions but left priests and some Sir Francis Drake, pirate and privateer in service to the English Crown was known to prowl the region between 1577-1580. These crew behind. Seeking a better water source, more game, perhaps the ships waited just off the Eastern tip of Baja eager to relieve the Spanish end of the “island” some ventured north leaving behind first, second and Galleons of their cargo. At this point in the voyages, Spanish and Brit- perhaps a third generation. Exploring Baja today is certainly more comfortable and accommoish sailors could easily have been at their wit’s end. The Spanish had just crossed a major portion of the Pacific Ocean and still had to sail dating. And thankfully everything that those desperate souls saw when down the coast of South America, around the Cape of they chose a life on Baja still exists. - the glorious sunsets, the stubborn Good Hope and traverse the Atlantic before reaching cactus that clings to the sand, the behemoth whales still cross the Penninsula on their way South. their home ports. The sea still gives up it’s bountiful buffet. The cave paintings left by Baja at the time was a veritable no-man’s land. In 1602 Hernan Cortez, the tough the ancient ancestors of the native women still tell tales of a good hunt. and determined conquerer of Mexico Minutes from Cabo San Lucas there are still small settlements where landed in Santa Cruz (La Paz). But pride of identity and tradition are carried on. Cabo is truly the past, the Baja conquered even Cortez. Little present and the future. With a little sincere and respectful curiosity tourists can ask the locals fresh water, no supplies and low morale forced him to abandon Baja. As about their family history. Don’t be surprised to meet a Lupe O’Donnell, a result the Spanish Galleons were Hector Ruiz Fitzgerald, Lucia Villanueva Bains or an Estela Tapis Green.
34
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E
Oceanfront Lifestyle ... Within Your Reach!
An affordable, laid-back Baja lifestyle awaits you on the beach in Mexico. A retirement home, vacation home or investment property is a reality for many who have been visiting this developing haven for years. The close proximity to the greater San Diego area allows you to take advantage of the best of both worlds. Let the Prudential Baja team be your guide to the beautiful developments and resales available in this oceanfront paradise.With our professional service, knowledge and expertise we will guide you to safely acquire properties and lead you through a secure acquisition process. There has never been a better time than now to take advantage of the best prices in years.
Shannon Duclos (760) 809-1589 shannon.duclos@prubaja.com
Larry French (303) 588-9406 larry.french@prubaja.com www.oceanfrontbaja.com
NORTHERN BAJA DIVISION Contact us today to get started. Mention this ad and get a free wine country guide.
Laura Miller (619) 888.6171 laura.miller@prubaja.com
Km. 40 Tijuana - Ensenada Free Road • Playas de Rosarito, BC, México 22710 • www.prubaja.com MARCH APRIL 2008
35
AN OASIS OF SERENIT Y AND REJUVENATION
Fr o m U S A t o l l f r e e 1 ( 8 8 8 ) 5 6 2 - 8 2 5 4 • I n M ex i c o 01 ( 6 4 6 ) 174 - 7 37 3 • w w w. c a s a n a t a l i e . c o m K m 10 3 . 3 C a r r e t e r a T i j u a n a - E n s e n a d a • # 7 2 6 3 , E l S a u z a l d e Ro d r i g u e z • E n s e n a d a , B C 2 276 0 36
B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E