MAGAZINE
Issue Eighteen All you need to know about fine dining, luxury accommodation and the best food and beverages the UK has to offer.
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Aspleys, A Heinz Beck Restaurant: London’s finest dining experience?
FEATURING:
Threadneedles • The Bristol Hotel Galvin La Chapelle • SLABS London • Apsleys, a Heinz Beck Restaurant Mount Gay Rum • teapigs • Roger Constant Lemaire Champagne
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Il Gelato di Ariela (Ariela’s Gelato) was born in 2006 when in a really hot summer Ariela was struggling to find the fantastic Gelato she could only find back home. It was then that the penny dropped and she realised there was a lack of really authentic Italian Gelato in London. So with the help of Francesca, another Gelato lover, she opened a little Gelateria in north London. Their mission was to make the original Italian Gelato, the artisan way, using only the best natural ingredients, real fruit and banning all artificial flavourings and colourings. It wasn’t long before other food establishments were asking to be supplied with what they regarded as one of the best Gelato in London, one thing led to another and Il Gelato di Ariela moved from being a retail business to a wholesale one.
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E AT S L E E P D R I N K Issue Eighteen
All you need to know about fine dining, luxury accommodation and the best food and beverages the UK has to offer
MAGAZINE esdmagazine.com
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Dear Readers, This edition is something of a celebration of old favourites and new beginnings. For the former, we returned to The Lanesborough and dined at Apsleys, a Heinz Beck Restaurant and enjoyed the best meal of the year to date, which was punctuated by the most sublime Fagotelli Carbonara imaginable. We also caught up with Louise Allen, Founder of teapigs, 12 months since we last spoke and found the brand looking stronger and perkier than ever; look out for the new range of Darjeeling and Earl Grey Strong available now! Firmly established on our ‘new favourites’ list is the wonderful champagne created by Roger Constant Lemaire, which is headed up in the UK by Managing Director, Geri Conroy. The House’s elegant grower champagne is becoming one of the trade’s worst kept secrets and we’re predicting it won’t be long before consumers are waxing lyrical about it too. Rather embarrassingly our latest discovery is more than 300 years old and comes in the form of Mount Gay Extra Old Rum. Slowly matured in Kentucky Oak, the Extra Old has a complex bouquet and a rewardingly smooth finish that balances banana, vanilla and warm spice, making it the perfect winter warmer! We also visited The Bristol Hotel as well as Slabs (Steak, Lobster and Burgers) and Galvin La Chapelle. While all three had undoubted quality, there was a particular sense of disappointment at Galvin, which showcased divine food but was surprisingly let down by service that can only be described as glacial. On the upside though, our visit to Threadneedles in the heart of London’s banking district was full of positives. As always we hope you enjoy the latest edition as much as we have enjoyed producing it. Don’t forget to tell us (editor@ esdmagazine.com) about your favourite restaurants, hotels and premium brands – we love hearing your suggestions!
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Have a wonderful month!
CONTENTS Issue Eighteen
esdmagazine.com
NEWS
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EA T
SLABS London: Appropriately housed in what-feels-like a slab of concrete just off the Marylebone High Street, SLABS serves sizeable slabs of meat and fish.
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Galvin La Chapelle: The third restaurant to be opened by Brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin,
La Chapelle has enjoyed success from the moment it opened its doors, with no less than eight top restaurant awards in its first year of business
Apsleys, a Heinz Beck Restaurant: Opened in September 2009 at The Lanesborough, Apsleys is one of London’s most breathtaking Michelin Starred restaurants.
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S L EE P Threadneedles: Based in the heart of the City of London, Threadneedles is a five star boutique hotel that is full of character.
The Bristol Hotel: Having long-been considered Bristol’s finest hotel, The Bristol is located right in the heart of the action, making it perfect for business or leisure.
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DRINK Sommeliers Selection: Giovanni Ferlito, Hélène Darroze at the Connaught 19 Mount Gay Rum: Widely recognised as the oldest rum in the world, Mount Gay has been handcrafted at the same location in Barbados for more than 300 years.
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teapigs: Following our extensive feature last year, we were thrilled to catch up with teapigs and
find out how the brand has continued to go from strength to strength with its unique mix of playfulness and terrific tea.
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Roger Constant Lemaire Champagne: Roger Constant Lemaire is a traditional boutique
Champagne from vineyards adjacent to Dom Pérignon in the Marne Valley, which began life when the poet Désiré Lemaire purchased what is now the Lemaire vineyards.
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If you would like to go directly to an article, simply click on the relevant heading listed above.
If you have any news to share, email us at editor@esdmagazine.com
EAT
NEWS
Simon Radley awarded Michelin star for the 24th year running Chester, UK ‘Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor’ has been awarded a Michelin star for the 24th year in a row. The accolade means the award winning restaurant joins an elite group of only four other English restaurants to ever have been awarded one or more Michelin stars consecutively for so many years, and sits amongst the company of Hambleton Hall, Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, Le Gavroche and Waterside Inn, Bray. Executive chef Simon Radley said: “Twenty-four years of being awarded Michelin stars is an achievement we are all proud of. We put our hearts into the food and service here, and the longevity of our Michelin star is the ultimate recognition of our efforts.” Simon is a hands-on chef who is involved in the day to day running of both ‘Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor’ and the hotel’s ‘La Brasserie’ restaurants. He handpicks suppliers, mentors young up-and-coming chefs through the Simon Radley Kitchen Academy and is an integral part of the hotel’s senior management team. His bespoke menus, ideas for seasonal food and creativity extend as far as the specialist Westminster Suite kitchen which serve the meetings and events held at the five star hotel. Fine dining is complemented by the extensive wine cellar, with more than 1,000 bins, which is overseen by sommelier Garry
Clark. Managing director Jonathan Slater said: “To hold a Michelin star for as long as we have takes both talent and extreme dedication. This is a fitting tribute to Simon Radley and his superb teams both in the kitchen and on the restaurant floor.” For reserverations, please visit: http://www.chestergrosvenor.com/simon-radley-restaurant Chester Grosvenor & Spa Eastgate Street Chester CH1 1LT
The Samling wins first Michelin Star, Cumbria, UK The Samling hotel near Ambleside in Cumbria became the North of England and Scotland’s only new Michelin Star in the 2013 guide. The news comes on the back of a number of high profile accolades for the hotel’s restaurant including being awarded three AA Rosettes last week. Head Chef Ian Swainson, 31, joined the hotel last July and made an instant impact taking the title of the 2013 “Best Boutique Dining Hotel in the World” the following November. On hearing the news that he had won a Michelin Star Swainson said “I am absolutely delighted.” “We have had fantastic support from the hotel’s owners who enabled us to do what we do, which is basically focus on producing really well-flavoured food and making it as interesting as possible. “Our team here at The Samling is young and incredibly talented. Every single
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member of the team is so passionate about what they do and totally committed to doing the very best job they can day in and day out. I believe we have an extremely bright future ahead.” The hotel also launched its Development Kitchen earlier this month. The kitchen has been purpose built to help the team develop the menu outside of the day-to-day running of the hotel and will hold a series of cookery courses in 2014. Hotel General Manager Alasdair Elwick commented “This is a new exciting moment in the hotel’s history. We really do believe that is the start of things to come here at The Samling.” “We are looking to appoint the very best people we can find in the hospitality industry and continuing to invest in the hotel. “We have had planning permission
approved on a major development in the past few weeks, which will help us move forward in our goal of becoming one of the best hotels and restaurants in UK hospitality industry. The Samling has a very exciting future ahead. This year has been a record year for the hotel with a greater number of guests than ever before. To be awarded a Michelin Star at the end of this is just incredible.” Visit: www.thesamlinghotel.co.uk for more information. The Samling Ambleside Road Windermere Cumbria LA23 1LR
SLEEP Olly Rouse joins Lainston House as Head Chef Hampshire, UK
Exclusive Hotels have appointed Olly Rouse as Head Chef at Lainston House, Hampshire. Olly will be overseeing all of Lainston House’s Food and Beverage offerings including the award-winning Avenue restaurant (3 AA rosettes). Olly brings a wealth of experience; he was previously Head Chef at Coworth Park where he helped achieve a series of accolades including a Michelin star within its first year of opening and 3 AA rosettes. His other experience includes The Vineyard at Stockcross as Sous Chef and Pétrus under Gordon Ramsay Holdings as well as stages at Le Meurice and The Fat Duck. Olly commented: “Lainston House has everything I’ve been looking for within a property. I cannot wait to work with the
team and grow our food philosophy in a really natural way. Our surroundings will be our inspiration to drive the food in the restaurant. We will embrace our Kitchen Garden and set out to utilise all it produces, with interesting combinations created to intrigue and give the feel-good factor. Diners can expect dishes which are complex in flavour and texture, with simple yet elegant presentation. We will be using many old and forgotten techniques and the very best of British ingredients to produce dishes that will take health and the environment into consideration.” Lainston House is a charming 17th century country house hotel that stands in 63 acres of beautiful Hampshire parkland with 50 individually designed bedrooms. Visit: www.exclusivehotels.co.uk for more information. Lainston House Hotel Woodman Lane Sparsholt Winchester SO21 2LT
COMPETITION: Wine Afternoon Tea for Two at Poets House, Ely! To be in with a chance of winning Afternoon Tea for two at Poets House (read our review here), simply email: editor@esdmagazine.com with the subject line ‘Tea for Two’ or tweet the same message to @goeatsleepdrink.* Located in the heart of Ely’s historic city centre and commanding superb views of the Cathedral, Poets House is a uniquely stylish hotel, restaurant and event venue. Coupling the buildings’ original charm with stunningly innovative interiors, Poets House affords guests the perfect blend of luxurious comfort and excellent service. Open throughout the day until late evening, The Study Bar has quickly become an established premium destination for an informal business breakfast, mid-morning coffee and cake, an Express lunch, the place for a very special afternoon tea or as a classy setting for evening cocktails – maybe
before moving on to dinner in the Dining Room restaurant. If you’re not lucky enough to win, enjoy lunch at Poets House before the end of October 2013 and receive a free drink in the Study Bar. Tel: 01353 887 777 and quote Eat Sleep Drink to book.** *Afternoon tea prize is valid Monday to Friday and needs to be pre-booked. We will inform the winning subscriber via email on 31st October, 2013. **Offer is One free drink per paying guest, valid Monday to Friday between 11am – 4pm until 31 October 2013, subject to availability. Visit: www.poetshouse.com
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DRINK Champagne Billecart-Salmon collaborates with Tallowin on a luxurious leather champagne handbag. Nationwide, UK BILLECART-SALMON, is pleased to present the fruits of their recent collaboration with British Handbag Designer TALLOWIN: a singular carry case, hand-crafted to perfectly fit a pair of the House’s signature ‘Foundation’ bottles. Designer Mark Tallowin, whose eponymous label specialises in luxury handbags, has already been making waves in the fashion world; this is his first major commission. Both he and the team at Billecart felt there were real similarities in their approach to their work. An intense focus on one single challenge, a dedication to the craft, and a constant striving for excellence. The case itself has been designed, prototyped, and carefully brought to life in TALLOWIN’s London studio, using techniques which have been all but forgotten by more modern bag makers. Mark insists upon using naturally tanned bridle leather, hand carved, burnished, and hand stitched using waxed linen thread in an incredibly labour-intensive process. Only by using this quality of leather can the case be handworked around the bottles themselves, to create a perfectly sculpted form, and to highlight the particular profile of BILLECART-SALMON’s ‘Foundation’ bottles. This commission is seen as a natural coming together of these two Houses, demonstrating a mutual respect for each other’s craft, and a shared dedication to working towards the absolute finest products. Visit: www.marktallowin.co.uk / http://www.champagnebillecart.com/
Teapigs releases Earl Grey Strong and Darjeeling Nationwide, UK teapigs have brought out two shiny new blends this winter. The two new blends are Earl Grey Strong and Darjeeling. Louise, teapigs tea taster says: “We already offer a lovely light darjeeling earl grey in the teapigs range but we’ve had lots of requests for an earl grey with a little more oomph and wallop, so we developed a new blend that contains a malty Assam and punchy Rwandan tea to give the traditional bergamot some added muscle. It’s perfect for those customers who like it stronger.” teapigs have also launched a single
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estate darjeeling tea from the Happy Valley tea estate. “It comes from the Happy Valley tea garden in Darjeeling town which produces some of the best tea you can find. The tea garden sits high up in the Himalayan hills, overlooking Darjeeling at 6800 ft. We’re regularly in touch with the tea producers and will be posting regular updates from them for our customers. This tea has a unique, clean and refreshing taste. It’s traditionally drunk in the afternoon, but tastes equally good early morning from a chipped mug”. teapigs new blends will be available to
the trade from 14th October and teapigs will be providing point of sale material to help customers promote the teas. Both teas are available in teapigs standard 15s packs. teapigs earl grey strong is also available in teapigs foodservice packs of 50. Visit: http://www.teapigs.co.uk/ for more information and to order the new blends now.
SLABS
E A T : Slabs, 19 New Cavendish Street, London
SLABS (code for Steak, Lobster and Burgers) is aptly named. Housed in what-feels-like a slab of concrete just off the Marylebone High Street, it serves sizeable slabs of meat and fish.You’ll find it after walking past delicately lit tapas bar The Fat of the Land and Galleria – a Persian hidden gem that always looks so inviting.
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The latest luxury dude-food joint to hit London’s restaurant scene, SLABS was lacking a queue and any warmth. Inside there are big, wooden tables brandishing scary looking knives and candles. The whole place felt cold, unaided by the sparse white and grey walls, lack of customers and loud, intrusive music.
Getting slabbed
We hadn’t been there long before our enthusiastic waiter talked us through the
food menu, made up of Starters, Steaks & Seafood, Burgers & Sliders, Sandwiches and Salads, along with different sides and toppings. A large drinks menu offers a good range of wine, beer, soft drinks and – for those that want to get ‘slabbed’ (their words not mine) – the bartender can shake up a cocktail in front of your very eyes. We ordered a bottle of French Merlot – the house red at £17.50 – and made our choices. I was instantly drawn to the
different lobster dishes (Whole North Devon Lobster at £29.50 and Lobster Burger at £19.95), but was quickly told it was out of stock – surprising for an early sitting on a Wednesday evening. Meat became the only main course option, but we were able to enjoy some fruit de mare to start. The food arrived quickly, but it wasn’t like there were many people to serve. Salt & Pepper Chilli Squid (£8.95) was well flavoured and succulent, but I’d have preferred the sauce on the side as some pieces were a little soggy. My favourite were the Pan-Fried Tiger Prawns (£9.95). Each enormous sweet prawn was beautifully cooked in garlic, chilli and brandy jus and served with a simple salad. An expensive dish, but one that definitely delivered on flavour.
Meat and drink
A 6oz Ribeye Steak (£13.95) and Wagyu Burger (£19.95) were ordered for mains, along with Skinny French Fries, Ale Battered Onion Rings, Homemade Coleslaw and a Mixed Leaf Salad as sides (all at £2.95). The steak was medium rare and tasted perfectly good, enhanced by its rich Béarnaise Sauce. The Wagyu Burger had >>
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spent too long under the grill, but the roasted shitake mushrooms, Asian Slaw and Wasabi Mayo were interesting toppings that hid the disappointingly-cooked burger. The chips and onion rings were crisp and golden, but it was the salad that proved the most popular as we craved something fresh and clean on our palates. The coleslaw was well made, with thick chunks of raw vegetable and a light, creamy mayo.
Iffy interiors
We amazingly had room for pudding, which was a delightful Chocolate Brownie with Poached Pear. As with the rest of the dishes, dessert was well presented and wolfed down within five minutes (mainly by yours truly). The food at SLABS needs some tweaks, but on the whole it’s
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a perfectly adequate local eatery. However, the interior really lets the place down. If SLABS wants to become a staple restaurant in London’s diet, it’ll need to up its game, taking pointers from its classier neighbours. Dinner for two including wine: £95 Visit: www.slabslondon.com for reservations or call: 020 7486 2131. Slabs London 19 New Cavendish Street London W1G 9TZ
S L E EP: Threadneedles Hotel, 5 Threadneedle Street, London
City Living Based in the heart of the City of London, Threadneedles is a five star boutique hotel that is full of character. On our recent visit, we were surprised to find a hotel with more personality than one might imagine in the Square Mile.
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From the striking stained glass dome above the lobby, which dates back to 1856, to the contemporary styling in the 74 bedrooms, Threadneedles is unsurprisingly a firm favourite with the oodles of bankers that call this part of London home. Operating at an impressive occupancy rate in its high 80s, the hotel is clearly in the right part of town for corporate accounts, but during our visit there was a diverse mix of guests taking in the grandeur of this former Victorian banking hall.
In the bathroom, elegant limestone is complemented by separate bathtubs and showers as well as Italian bathrobes, slippers and luxury amenities provided by The White Company. It was pleasing to see a well-stocked mini bar, cleverly disguised in one of the large built-in wardrobes as well as a Nespresso machine, with plenty of caffeine-fuelled flavours on offer. Over the past decade, and for those of us that rarely venture into the City for their accommodation in
the capital, the City has undergone a radical transformation on Friday and Saturday nights. Indeed, this former ghost town has become a hub of bars and restaurants, meaning that a weekend stay at Threadneedles provides plenty of dining and drinking options right on its doorstep. If you like to burn the midnight oil then you’ll be pleased to know that the hotel offers an overnight Honesty Bar in the lobby, with a host of drinks available, including champagne by the glass and a robust selection of wines. >>
The real deal
Threadneedles is part of the Marriott Autograph Collection chain and like its two big Marriott brothers - Grosvenor House and St. Pancras Renaissance - it oozes style and finesse. Accommodation ranges from the entry level Luxury Double all the way through to The Penthouse, which is accessed via a private lift and has a dedicated balcony with stunning views over the City rooftops. We stayed in one of the Executive King rooms, which boast a sitting area and king-sized bed, although we did note that this was actually two Queen-size beds pushed together. All rooms feature complimentary shoe shine service and daily newspapers as well as mineral water on turndown.
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>> A place to bond
If you don’t fancy leaving the warmth of the hotel to strap on the nosebag, Bonds Restaurant & Bar is a decidedly strong choice for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Winner of two AA Rosettes 2012-2013, Bonds is something of a favourite for power lunches; far from a shock given its location in the heart of London’s financial district. At its core, the restaurant provides a fresh approach to modern British cuisine, with a dynamic menu. There are two distinct areas in Bonds,
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the bar area and the restaurant area, the latter of which is ideal for entertaining as it can cater for large dinner parties for up to 80 guests. Both spaces can be combined for exclusive wedding receptions for up to 200, which are apparently a large part of the hotel’s weekend business. On our visit, we dined on Dorset Crab with Wild Cress Salad, Saffron Leek & Clam Vinaigrette (£12) served with a beautiful Chablis from Simonnet-Febvre 2010 (£10.50). My guest enjoyed Smoked
Scottish Salmon with Herb Crème Fraiche, Quail Egg, Fiscelle Croutons and a Lemon Vinaigrette (£13), which was served with a not-so-impressive Chardonnay from Chile (£7.50). Both main courses were excellent; I opted for the Grilled Black Angus Rib Eye of Beef with Spinach and Watercress Puree, English Asparagus, Shallot and Thyme Jus, which at £24.00 was a real bargain. The meat melted in the mouth and it was well partnered with the spinach and grilled English asparagus. The wine, a 2008 Bordeaux from Chateau Argadens (£10), was the perfect match for the bold flavours of the beef. The star of the show, however, was the Best End of Welsh Lamb served with Hot Pot Potatoes, Carrot and Thyme Puree, Stuffed Courgette Flower & Rosemary Jus (£25.00). Cooked to perfection, the lamb was beautifully pink and an utter triumph, while the wine pairing, an English red by Denbies at £12.50 was surprisingly successful with the richness of the meat. Given the heartiness of the mains we were reticent about dessert but our knowledgeable waiter talked us into sharing the Cinnamon & Apple Crumble with Vanilla Custard (£6.50). Although
it was far from ground-breaking, it was a fitting British punctuation to a nearly faultless menu.
In for the long haul
It is a quirk of Threadneedles that during the week it needs little to no advertising, such is its popularity with the suits of Square Mile. Yet, despite this corporate popularity, there was no sense that this is just a business hotel. Of course, there are all of the conveniences one would expect from a five star boutique hotel in this part of town, but touches like the all-night Honesty Bar and genuinely good British cuisine from Bonds take it to the
next level. Lovers of luxury should also note that the Royal Exchange, literally a one minute walk from the hotel, is dangerously close by, while Leadenhall and Spitalfields markets offer a diverse selection of restaurants and traders stalls, should you wish to see a more authentic slice of the capital. Although Threadneedles isn’t licensed for weddings, many of the City’s Livery halls are clustered around the hotel, giving it another draw to potential guests. Ultimately if you’re looking for a weekend break in a less-explored part of the capital, Threadneedles should definitely be on the radar. Rooms start from £255.00 on a Friday night, based on two people sharing Visit: www.hotelthreadneedles.co.uk for reservations or call: 0207 657 8080. Threadneedles Hotel 5 Threadneedle Street London EC2R 8AY
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Drinking a fine London
Gin or Vodka ......?
“
My Tonic water has the base note of bitter quinine and a very definite top note of real lemon oil and bitter orange but leaves a space in the middle for a fine spirit to fully occupy - think of my No1 London Tonic as a grand frame in which to exhibit a masterpiece!
“
Peter Spanton
No1 London Tonic by Peter Spanton Beverages www.peterspantonbeverages.com
Giovanni Ferlito – D R IN K : Sommeliers Selection
Sommelier at Hélène Darroze at The Connaught
As a key part of one our favourite restaurants in the UK, Giovanni Ferlito always takes pride in recommending lesser known producers to pair with the wonderful food on offer at Hélène Darroze at the Connaught. On our recent visit (look out for the Christmas print edition to read the review), the ‘Orange Wine’ in particular made a profound impression on us.
As Giovanni recently told us: “I believe in diversity, terroir and culture of expressive wines made by the passion of small producers... Indeed, for me, wine is even better if it’s biodynamic!” Below, Giovanni picks five wines that are perfect for all palates.
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WHITE 2011 Koshu Aruga Katsunuma Jyozo Winery, JAPAN Grape 100% Koshu Importer: ENOLOGIA +44 (0)20 7060 3206
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WHITE 2011 Dorgò Furmint Szepsy, HUNGARY Grape 100% Furmint Importer: TOP SELECTION +44 (0)20 7499 4440 ORANGE 2006 Ribolla Gialla “Orange Wine” Radikon, Friuli Venezi Giulia, ITALY Grape 100% Ribolla Gialla Importer: DYNAMIC VINES +44 (0)207 287 2179
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RED 2010 Pinoterie Domaine Prieure Roch, Burgundy, FRANCE Grape 100% Pinot Noir Importer: WINE SOURCE +44 (0)203 574 4031 SWEET 2009 Breganze Torcolato Maculan, ITALY Grape 100% Vespaiola Importer: BERKMANN WINE CELLARS +44 (0)20 7609 4711
To see Giovanni in action, reservations for Hélène Darroze at the Connaught can be made by calling +44 020 7107 8880 or by visiting: http://www.the-connaught.co.uk/mayfair-restaurants/helene-darroze/
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DRINK : Mount Gay Rum
Widely recognised as the oldest rum in the world, Mount Gay has been handcrafted at the same location in Barbados for more than 300 years. We spoke to the team and discovered the passion that goes into each and every bottle.
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Can you begin by explaining the history of Mount Gay Rum, perhaps drawing particular attention to the original ideas/ concept behind the company?
Every great story begins with a time and a place. For Mount Gay Rum that time and place is the Caribbean Island of Barbados, in 1703. Rum, originally called “Kill-Devil” by the Barbadians who first distilled it, is truly a product of the island. The abundance of molasses combined with the culinary ingenuity of early settlers and, of course, their legendary thirst for alcohol led to this unique discovery in the production of spirits. Sir John Gay was a respected leader and businessman who worked on the
island of Barbados. A friend of Sir John Gay’s, the contrarily named John Sober, inherited a then-unknown distillery and had asked for Sir John’s help in managing it. Sir John Gay quickly took to the business of making rum. He refined the distillation process and began producing a noticeably superior product, that we know today as Mount Gay Rum. Shipping was an important part of Mount Gay Rum’s heritage. For centuries, ships were the only way by which Barbadian sugar and Mount Gay Rum could meet global demand. Bridgetown, the capital of Barbados is one of the oldest seaports in the Caribbean and the port from which Mount Gay Rum sailed into the glasses and gullets of the world.
The branding straddles the line between modernity and traditional elegance – what kind of approach did you take to design and execute it?
Mount Gay Rum is set to launch a redesigned bottle and label for its flagship rum, Mount Gay Rum Eclipse. The new design captures the visual expression of the Mount Gay Rum handcrafted heritage and promotes the premium of the credentials of the brand. Features of the new packaging include: • A bottle that pays tribute to the hand stamped barrels of the past reminds consumers that every great story begins with a time and a place • A thick textured paper for the labels >>
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• A Barbados map, inspired by a real map designed by E. Bowen in 1752 • Details about the raw materials and the production process • A bottle engraving that pays homage to where the rum comes from and adds character
Rum is booming in the UK at the moment – what would you attribute this to?
Consumer needs and aspirations are changing. Consumers are looking for more qualitative, more authentic brands; brands with substance, craftsmanship and bold taste. Mount Gay Rum offers a unique proposition that transcends the rum category, to enter the crafted spirits category. The resurgence of cocktails is helping to drive sales of rum, along with the backing and support of top bartenders. Consumer events, such as Rumfest, help to drive awareness of the craftsmanship of the spirit, showing it can stand alongside the greatest scotches and cognacs.
What would you say are the brands three major strengths? 1. The finest and oldest rum in the world, since 1703 – The rum that invented rum 2. F rom Barbados, the birthplace of rum 3. Taste – Mount Gay Rum prides itself in producing a fine, crafted Bajan rum. And this is evident on being one of the most awarded rum in the world.
Quality ingredients and production are clearly integral to Mount Gay Rum – how have you ensured this as business has increased?
Mount Gay Rum is the product of over 310 years of knowledge, experience and refinement applied to the process of making rum. Each of our rum’s complex flavours have been coaxed from natural Barbadian ingredients and the input of many generations of master blenders, distillers and the evolving palates of rum shop patrons. The island of Barbados is formed of coral limestone, which acts as a natural filter for the groundwater, deep beneath the island. This water is subsequently filtered three more times, resulting in some of the purest water available. Barbadian sugar is among the finest in the world, yielding exceptional molasses. In the 18th century, Barbadian molasses had come to be called “Black Gold” because of the additional revenue it provided after the process of refining crystalised sugar from sugar cane. The art of fermentation truly begins
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when molasses and coral filtered water are combined with a proprietary strain of yeast, selected exclusively for Mount Gay Rums. Since opening the doors of the first still house, this process has been conducted in the open air of Barbados. For over three hundred years, the distinct bold character of Mount Gay Rum has been developed in traditional double copper pot stills. An innovative distillation technique in 1703, this process has been in continuous use by Mount Gay Rum ever since. In tropical Caribbean climates, the process of ageing is unpredictable. One year could mature a rum as much as three years, or as few as six months. For Mount Gay Rum the focus is on maturation over ageing. Today, Mount Gay Rums are matured in charred white oak barrels – barrels which previously held American whiskey. The muddled rum drinks of the 18th century were the beginning of the modern cocktail. Tavern bartenders of the time had to be quite creative, using what fresh fruits, sours, and spices were available to make the fiery bite of early rum palatable. Today, the refinement of rum cocktail culture has evolved into a nuanced skill that uses the specific flavour profiles of high-quality Mount Gay Rums to lead the creation of new drink recipes. Blending with the complex character Mount Gay Rums is nothing short of a fine art.
Are there plans afoot for any Christmas specials or collaborations with mixologists?
Mount Gay Rum have created a collection of Winter-inspired cocktails to bring a touch of the sundrenched Caribbean to consumers across the country this Winter. Created by Bajan mixologist and Mount Gay Rum brand ambassador Miguel Smith, each cocktail recipe is crafted with years of his mixology knowhow including his time at London VIP hotspot Mahiki. What’s more, they are
simple enough to make at home and are guaranteed to impress this Winter season.
Where do you see Mount Gay in 12 month’s time?
With the launch of the new branding for Mount Gay Rum Eclipse, Mount Gay Rum are particularly keen to drive further awareness of the of the brand. By promoting its taste credentials as a stand-alone spirit, along with telling the story of the brand and promoting its heritage – we hope to maintain its position as one of the UK’s best-loved rum brands. Whilst continuing to drive the brand forward, we continue to remain loyal to our core values of quality and heritage. Mount Gay Rum can be found in the UK’s finest bars and in any good wine merchant, off license and online drinks website.
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E A T : Apsleys, The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, London
Food Write to
Home About
Opened in September 2009 at The Lanesborough, Apsleys by Heinz Beck is one of London’s most breathtaking Michelin-Starred restaurants. We returned a year on from our first visit to find a restaurant that wowed and surprised in equal measure and enjoyed quite comfortably the best meal of the year so far. 24
Apsleys is the first restaurant outside Italy created by Heinz Beck, holder of three Michelin Stars at La Pergola in Rome. Having been approached by The Lanesborough in 2009, Mr. Beck soon earned the restaurant its own Michelin Star, when in February 2010 it became the fastest London establishment to be bestowed with the award – a title it has held ever since.
Beautiful spaces, beautiful food
Nestled inside The Lanesborough, Apsley’s stunning Venetian-style dining room, with its glass roof and plush upholstery, is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful spaces for dining in London. Overseen by Mr. Beck and headed up by Executive Chef, Heros De Agostinis who has worked under Heinz for many years, the menu is focused on lighter Mediterranean-inspired dishes that are as healthy as they are approachable and exciting. Previously The Conservatory, The Lanesborough decided that they wanted a restaurant with more contemporary style, which is where Heinz came into the picture, as he begins by explaining. “Having decided on a more modern style, the hotel enlisted designer Adam Tihany to transform their grand dining room, resulting in a handsome, art deco
interior featuring incredible chandeliers. After two years of working on the new transformation they wanted a new chef who was more internationally wellknown with a higher regard, this is when they contacted me and I joined in 2009. “When I first visited to look around the restaurant I immediately liked the place especially the service the hotel offered which is of an extremely high standard,” he recalls. “The Lanesborough is mentally similar to me – I felt very comfortable with the people and the job that was being offered to me. From the beginning, my strategy has always been high quality and high standards of food preparation. Essentially, what I have created at Apsleys is good value for money alongside quality dishes with exceptional service. “We offer very light and healthy cooking with Mediterranean flavours,” Heinz asserts. “For me, this is a vital point – we are what we eat. I am always thinking about giving my best to the guests, wanting to offer high quality food, so that diners can enjoy the best experience possible”.
Depth of flavour
On our recent visit, we were thrilled to be treated to a specially prepared Tasting Menu crafted by Executive Chef, Heros
de Agostinis, which was simply the best meal we’ve had in 2013. It was so good that we couldn’t help but repeat the sentiment twice in the same article! To start, we were presented with an exquisitely prepared Sea Bass. So often a bland-tasting fish, Heros’ mastery of flavours was fully evident. This was followed by Scallop with Pea Puree and Asparagus; again, it was delightfully fresh and cooked to perfection, with the puree acting as a peppery emulsion to the plump scallop. The absolute star of the show and undoubtedly the highlight of our culinary year to date was the signature Fagotelli Carbonara served with a 2010 Vigneti Massa Derthona from Piedmont in Italy. For the uninitiated, Fagotelli is nothing at all like spaghetti carbonara. In fact, Fagotelli are little square parcels filled with a mousseline of rich cheese. The pasta itself is so thin – made from De Cecco semolina flour – that it literally melts in the mouth. The paper-thin membrane of the pasta bursts open with a deeply indulgent creamy cheese filling exploding in one’s mouth. There is no cloying starchiness, just the most luxurious, rich mousseline you could ever imagine. A touch act to follow you might think but the next course more than held its
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own. Indeed, the presentation alone was enough to take our minds away from the wonder of its predecessor. The Tuna Tartare with White Tomato Mousse and Taggiasche Olives is served on a glass circle that sits over a bowl. In the glass are a number of small holes where the dry ice mint infusion gradually emerges to coat the entire dish with the most refreshing smell and flavour. During the serving, we received envious and inquisitive looks from the next table who quickly asked why they weren’t having the same dish! Needless to say, the whole thing came together with flawless simplicity; no mean feat given the complexity of service and craftsmanship. We were then treated to an Organic ‘Rhug’ Saddle of Lamb with Mediterranean Flavours and served with a 2006 Il Poggione, Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany. Impeccably coated with a pistachio crust, the so-called Main Course of the Tasting Menu didn’t disappoint. Rich and hearty flavours of the lamb combined well and the wine pairing was robust enough to not be overpowered by the meat. Dessert was a similar success and after the delights of the savoury dishes there was a light sorbet to cleanse the palate. We were presented with a Milk Chocolate, Coconut and Pineapple Sorbet, served with a 2008 Anselmi ‘I Capitelli’ from Veneto, which is a beautifully sweet wine made from dried, late-harvest grapes. To finish, there was a Chocolate and Vanilla Sphere with Raspberry Heart. Much like the rest of the menu, it was simple, beautifully presented and displaying all of the benchmarks of an elite kitchen. Rich without being overpowering, delicate without being
twee, it left us, once again, reaching for superlatives.
Wine for all budgets
It is imperative that one takes advantage of the wine list at Apsleys; not to mention the sommelier’s pairings, which were carefully chosen and complemented the food superbly. For those looking to push the boat out, Apsleys offers some of the rarest vintages in the world yet, refreshingly, has an excellent ‘by the glass’ list for those on tighter budgets, as Heinz continues by telling us about his commitment to providing his diners with the highest quality food. “We always strive to bring the highest quality of food to our guests. The guests are the driving point and we do everything we can to ensure they have the best experience of Apsleys as possible. The restaurant is always open and while some say this is a limitation, I certainly do not see it this way,” he affirms. “Instead I feel this is a strength as guests can enjoy our food and hospitality at any time of the day. My kitchen team and I take care of lunch and dinner, whilst The Lanesborough’s team of pastry chefs run the breakfast and afternoon tea service”.
Keeping it fresh
As a restaurant inspired by the seasons, diners at Apsleys can always expect to find something new and unique on the menu – something Heinz is particularly passionate about. “I spend a lot of time in Apsleys when I’m in London and every time I’m here there’s always a change to the menu with new dishes added. By ensuring these regular menu changes, returning customers will always have the chance to try something new. “For me, creating new dishes is about being inspired,” Heinz explains. “For this to happen you have to be open to being inspired. You can be looking at paintings, architecture or even at the market and you can be inspired; you just need to be open. As soon as you have an inspiration you have to write it down immediately before you forget. From this point, the inspiration has to be developed – this can be a long process and requires patience. “Dishes have to be developed by cooking and tasting. Once completed, you have to ensure they will be accepted in the restaurant as well as being up to the high
standards our guests are used to,” he notes. “I am developing and working on new dishes every day. This does not mean I create a new dish everyday but rather that it is a long process to get a perfect, finished product for the restaurant. “In this respect, the Fish Crudo is extremely popular, so too the Lobster Salad with Asparagus, Artichokes and Strawberries, and Deep-fried Prawns with Couscous. The Carbonara Fagotelli is one of my signature dishes and it was a favourite of Michelle Obama’s when she dined with me here,” he affirms.
Savour every mouthful
When asked about the driving force behind his trailblazing success in Italy and now in London, Heinz was quick to reinforce quality as the major factor. “The quality of the ingredients and service alongside the restaurant’s positioning in the market - these are the factors behind Apsleys’ success,” he confirms. As for his ultimate experience at Apsleys, Heinz concludes by pointing to the importance of savouring the experience; to take the time to enjoy one’s lunch or dinner. “Our guests are looking for quality and great service and we try to make them feel like their every need is catered to. At Apsleys, we try to give our guests a positive experience and try to make them feel as relaxed as possible. It is essential that the chefs and service staff work well together and have good communication skills; I believe this is a basis of a good restaurant”. Simply put, Apsleys demands more attention. Uniquely for a Tasting Menu, every course was perfect; the kitchen didn’t miss a beat. Much like the rhythms of the Mediterranean which patently inspire each dish at Apsleys, this is an experience to savour with good friends, good wine and never to be rushed. A must visit! Five Courses, with wine pairing £100.00, per person. Seven Courses, with wine pairing, £130.00 (Prestige Wine Pairing £45.00 supplement). At lunch, two courses can be enjoyed for £27.00 or three courses for £35.00. Visit: http://www.lanesborough.com/ apsleys_restaurant_london The Lanesborough Hotel, Hyde Park Corner, London, SW1X 7TA or call: +44 (0)207 333 7254 for reservations.
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S L E EP: The Bristol Hotel, The Harbourside, Prince Street, Bristol
heart action
In the
of the
Having long-been considered Bristol’s finest hotel, The Bristol by The Doyle Collection is located right in the heart of the action, making it perfect for business or leisure.
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The Bristol Hotel is found right in the heart of Bristol dock area and has views over the river to the lively bar and restaurant area there. The Hotel staff were very welcoming and helpful, check in was a breeze and we were in our room within minutes of arriving. The room was on the 6th floor with views over the river and the city to the west. Although the room wasn’t huge, it was well designed with plenty of light, a comfortable bed and the usual desk and tv facilities. The en suite was adequate with all that was required although it really would have benefited from a little more space for when jumping out of the shower.
Ambience and service
Before dinner, we enjoyed tea in the River Lounge, whilst catching up on some work. The space was cleverly designed with excellent seating, including sofas and chairs around low level tables. Once again, the service was excellence and the ambience warm and comforting. When going for dinner one descends into the River Grille Restaurant from the River Lounge, past the piano and bar area. The restaurant was very contemporary and enjoyed a huge
glass frontage facing the river and the walkways. We imagine this would be fabulous for a spot of people watching when dining alone! The a la carte menu was appealing but in the end we chose from the Daily Market menu, which offered three courses. We started with a fabulous soup of broccoli and spinach which we thoroughly enjoyed and would recommend. This was followed with the grill test, a small steak with french fries and some cauliflower cheese. There was nothing wrong with it per se but yet there was nothing to be overly impressed with either. That said it was all eaten and enjoyed with a fine glass of Malbec from a solid wine list. For dessert, an apple crumple with >>
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left. This was unfortunately the weakest dish of the meal and we didn’t have the urge or inclination to finish it.
Local treats
After dinner, we retired to the quiet bar area and decided to sample a drop of the local poison. Being in the West Country, this happened to be cider which was crisp and refreshing. Internally, the hotel was well kept and very pleasant, however, the views over the external building didn’t do it many favours, but we doubt there is much The Bristol can do about that. A sound sleep and hot shower before heading down for an early breakfast started the day. Breakfast was buffet style in the River Grille and we chose to go continental as the cooked breakfast heated under lights didn’t look particularly appealing. A fair choice of cereals, bread products and some cheese and meats ensured we had plenty of fuel in the body to take on another busy day. Checking out was as smooth as checking in and we left the hotel feeling that we would be happy to return and that, with a little more effort, we could have enjoyed the stay even more! A midweek overnight stay at The Bristol, including full English Breakfast, WIFI and Parking starts from: £95.00 To book, visit: http://www.doylecollection. com/locations/bristol_hotels/the_bristol_ hotel.aspx or call: 0117 923 0333 The Bristol Hotel The Harbourside Prince Street Bristol BS1 4QF
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DRINK : teapigs
BREWING UP A
STORM One of the biggest success stories in the tea industry, teapigs has managed to create a loyal following in both the consumer and trade markets. We caught up with Louise Allen, Managing Director, 12 months after our previous review to find out the secrets to their success.
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Since we last spoke, teapigs has continued to expand with impressive results – what would you attribute this to? The quality of our tea! We focus on marketing to tea lovers and make sure that our tea is stonking quality.
The branding typifies playfulness and fun – could you tell us more about how this has evolved over time?
The brand hasn’t really ‘evolved’ we have just done more and more of the things we did in the first year of launch. We
love tea and we employ people who love tea – our office is full of young tea fans that have lots of energy! Our focus is on getting our teas into customers hands, once they try it they hopefully love it!
Could you tell us about the production process from leaf to box?
There is a huge amount of work involved in growing our teas and herbal infusions. The teas are grown at different altitudes and processed in different ways according to which tea / infusions are being produced. The tea leaves and herbal infusions come from all over the world – Brazil, Thailand, Rwanda, China, Taiwan, Japan.
How have your new teas been received? Have there been any surprises?
The Darjeeling and Earl Grey Strong only officially launched on 14th October and we’ve already had loads of interest and orders from our independent customers.
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Even customers who love teapigs are always keen to hear about something new- both blends are proving equally popular.
What would you say are the brand’s major strengths?
The tea quality is certainly number one – I am a trained tea taster with 15 years of slurping under my belt, I know a decent brew from a not so good one. We also try really hard to keep the brand simple – simple but good teas and simple marketing activities.
Can we expect any special teas in the coming months? In the New Year we’re looking to launch a ‘top of the crops’ range, which will be
exclusively available to selected retailers. This will include some exotic blends, picked at their very peak. We’ve also got a third new permanent fixture in the pipeline, so watch this space!
Your teas are aimed at consumers who appreciate truly special tea – are there any teas in particular that typify the brand? The teapigs range is designed to cover all bases, without being too overbearing or complex. Our Everyday Brew is a firm favourite and is where you can really see the superior quality that teapigs offer. Our Liquorice and Peppermint is naturally sweet and refreshing and continuously wins great taste awards as well as being a surprising top seller
What are your most popular teas?
We have a top ten which we’ve made available in larger pack sizes because they tend to be the best sellers. These are generally the more traditional black teas such as Everyday Brew, Earl Grey and Chai but they also span herbals and more unusual blends like Super Fruit and Lemon and Ginger.
What do you think has been the driving factor behind the brand’s success? The yummy tea, of course!
Finally, what is your favourite cup of teapigs tea? I love them all but if pushed I would choose Oolong – I love it. We area convincing the UK consumer to drink drink it one cup at a time but we are getting there!
Visit: www.teapigs.co.uk to order your tea today. teapigs are available from all leading supermarkets and specialist retailers and can be found in some of the finest hotels and restaurants across the UK.
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E AT : Galvin La Chapelle, 35 Spital Square, London
Keeping it
Family
in the
The third restaurant to be opened by Brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin, La Chapelle has enjoyed success from the moment it opened its doors, with no less than eight top restaurant awards in its first year of business. We went along for ourselves and were thrilled by the food but disenchanted by the service.
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Located just around the corner from Liverpool Street Station and thus in the heartland of finance, we arrived at La Chapelle late on a Thursday night and were immediately struck by the amount of people still in the restaurant; it is fair to say that business is booming for La Chapelle. Indeed, the restaurant was so busy that our table wasn’t ready despite having booked it for 9pm, so we enjoyed a couple of glasses of champagne at the well-manned bar. Perhaps we shouldn’t have been surprised, after all this is a restaurant that gained a Michelin star just one year after it opened in 2011. The restaurant itself is stunning and set in an old church, with muted lighting and a mezzanine level that overlooks the diners below. The ceiling is 30 feet high and the building is Grade II listed. It is a testament to the interior design that the fusion of tradition and modernity is successful and doesn’t feel contrived, an achievement that shouldn’t be overlooked.
restaurant, which afforded great views across the throngs of diners, it took 10 minutes for our waiter to return and take our orders. This was particularly disappointing as we were very excited about the menu, which contained one of our favourites as a starter, Steak Tartare (£16.50). When it did arrive, about 30 minutes after our order, it was fantastic. The beef was creamy and rich and the onions were diced to perfection, adding just the right amount of cohesion for the steak. For the main course (Plats Principaux), my guest and I opted to share a
Chateaubriand of 35 day aged Cumbrian Beef served with Caramelised Shallot, Beetroot Pureé and Summer Truffle Macaroni for two (£65.00). As with the Entrées, the food was replete and expertly cooked. The beef was beautifully pink and juicy and, as with the starter, melted in the mouth. The service, however, was positively glacial, which at this level and despite the busy restaurant, was disappointing.
Leaving a sour taste
Unfortunately, the slow service meant that we weren’t able to enjoy the
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What we had first hoped would be a momentary blip on our arrival actually happened to be more of a continual problem – service was sluggish throughout. Having been seated at an excellent table in the corner of the
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dessert in the restaurant, so we had to take our Apple Tarte Tatin with Crème Fraîche (£9.00) and Blackberry Soufflé & Milk Ice-Cream (£10.50) away with us. As with the previous two courses, the execution, taste and textures were exemplary, and only added to the feeling of frustration at the service, particularly as we weren’t able to enjoy the dishes in their rightful setting.
Leaving it late
In just over two hours, we were served two courses and then had to make a dash for the exit with our desserts in hand. As we were leaving, we had a brief encounter with the impeccably poised Front of House who assured us that the restaurant was unusually busy for a Thursday night and that we should return on a weekend for their famous Sunday Lunch Menu. However, such was the bad taste left by the under par service we haven’t yet made the return trip. Ultimately, this is excellent
food crafted by talented chefs. La Chapelle offers a Menu Gourmand, Prix Fixe lunch and an early dinner menu, with prices to match all wallets. Further to this, the restaurant is one of the few in the capital to hold a vertical list of Hermitage La Chapelle wines, as well as a first rate wine list with a pleasing selection of old and new world coverage. Having tasted the food and savoured the electric atmosphere, this is probably one of London’s finest restaurants. You can expect fine cooking but don’t expect the fine service that one has come to expect at a Michelin starred eatery. Dinner for two without wine: £117.50. Visit: http://www.galvinrestaurants.com/ or call: 020 7299 0400 for reservations. Galvin La Chapelle 35 Spital Square London E1 6DY
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D R IN K : Roger Constant Lemaire Champagne
Roger Constant Champagne
Roger Constant Lemaire is a traditional boutique Champagne from vineyards adjacent to Dom Pérignon in the Marne Valley, which began life when the poet Désiré Lemaire purchased what is now the Lemaire vineyards. We caught up with Geri Conroy, Director, to find out more about this delicious grower Champagne.
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Can you tell us about the history of the House?
The story begins in the latter part of the19th century in Cru Hautvillers, the birth place of Champagne. A family tradition was born when Desire Lemaire, a gardener and poet purchased some valuable land, grew the vines but sold the grapes to the Grand Marques. The full vision was developed by his grandchild, Roger-Constant Lemaire, who understood the importance of harmoniously blending grape varieties in order to create high quality Champagne. Through this, in 1930, the brand RogerConstant Lemaire was created. They have been producing quality Champagne for 5 generations. The Estate stretches over 13 hectares in the region of Cumières, Hautvillers, Reuil, Binson-Orquigny, Troissy et Leuvrigny. Production is 90,000 bottles per year of five Champagnes: Select Réserve, Cuvée Trianon, Rosé de Saignée, Millésime and Cuvée Roger-Constant. Today the estate is run by Brigitte Lemaire, daughter of Roger-Constant, who married Gilles Tournant in 1975 and together with their sons Guillaume and Sebastien they have adopted modern and ecologically friendly vinification techniques. The vines are protected with marine
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algae, harvested by hand and the wine is fermented in temperature controlled vats using non-malolactic fermentation. The Rosé was introduced in 1980 and in 2009 Gilles Tournant realised the importance of flavour over colour and revised the vinification methods to produce the exceptional Champagne Rosé de Saignée
The branding is classic and reflects the elegance of the taste within - could you tell us how this has evolved over time? In the early years the grapes were sold to the biggest producers but it was Roger-Constant who recognised their quality and started production. Vinification techniques and attention to detail along with a passion have improved year on year resulting in wonderful Champagnes which consistently win awards.
Could you tell us about the production process from grape to bottle – any secrets you can share?
To maintain healthy vines pruning is done throughout the year and Norwegian marine algae is used to protect the vines. Harvest this year started around the 30th September, the grapes are picked by hand, only strict selection on the vine stock to obtain an optimal maturity, a natural high proof and blooming aromas. Once picked, the grapes are then put into the press, a round wooden floor surrounded by adjustable wooden rails and topped by a heavy oak lid. Only the first press is selected. The wine is then put into temperature-controlled stainless steel >>
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vats, alcoholic fermentation is maintained at 16° proof to preserve the wine’s aromas. The fermentation is performed without malo-lactic fermentation. Giles & his son Guillaume blend the wines from several different pressings to obtain the House taste. In February, the blended wine is drawn off into bottles then aged for a minimum of 3 years. After disgorgement a low dosage of cane sugar (6g) is added before the cork and cap, then back into the cellar to sleep for another 4-6 months. Vintages are aged in oak casks for 9-12 months prior to bottling and then 5-7 years in our cellars. As far as house secrets are concerned: tradition, technique and a good palate. Priceless!
at a The Elsie Garden Party auction, a charity event with Christian Horner at Silverstone to help raise funds for Little Havens Children’s Hospice.
We were thrilled to taste the Cuvee Roger Constant 2007 – what is it that makes it so special compared to your other cuvees?
The Cuvées Les Hautes Priéres, Millésime Vintage 2008 is due to be released before Christmas. This particular vintage achieved a Gold Medal from Chardonnay Du Monde 2013.
Its inception arose from discussions with a Baroness in Germany who was a loyal customer looking for something more for those extra special occasions. A decision was made to produce a Champagne which would be specially blended and dedicated to the original Lemaire Vigneron, RogerConstant. Production is limited to 1200 numbered bottles. Each contains a unique capsule depicting the six generations of the Roger-Constant Lemaire Family. Last year, bottle #228 raised over £500
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What would you say are the brand’s major strengths?
The quality of its Champagnes! The House is in the enviable position of having sufficient grapes from their own vineyards, meaning that they are able to maintain absolute consistency. Besides this, I would say the exclusively first press, non-maloactic fermentation process, the low dosage of cane sugar and 3-4 years maturation make these Champagnes truly exceptional.
Can we expect any special cuvees in the coming months?
Your champagnes are aimed at the finest restaurants – are there any restaurants in particular that you have worked with on menu designs?
I routinely hold training in the restaurants where the Champagnes are listed. This provides the staff with the confidence to recommend the different Cuveés with foods that they may not have been aware of.
What are your most popular champagnes?
Our most popular Champagnes are Cuvée Trianon and Select Réserve. Cuvée Trianon is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. It is a multiaward winning Champagne with year-onyear consistency in flavour and finesse. An elegant fine mousse, rich, toasty and full-bodied, vibrant acidity, balanced with a beautiful finish. Select Réserve is a stylish Champagne made exclusively from Pinot Meunier. The palate has a real explosion of appley fruit with a hint of raspberry. Young and fresh but not overly acidic, with hints of malt and red fruit on the finish. It was awarded the Best Sparkling Trophy – Concours Mondial 2013
Can you tell us about any forthcoming releases you’re particularly excited about?
As mentioned before, the Millésime 2008, the Lemaire and the release of the Rose dé Saignée Magnums in 2015 and also Cuvée Trianon in Jeroboams.
Finally, what would be your ideal evening of champagne and food pairings?
I would recommend Select Réserve with a meat dish, preferably Lamb. For example, Lambs Cutlets with a rosemary herb crust. The Cuvée Trianon goes perfectly
with fish. Most recently I sampled it with Organic Loch Duart Salmon with a dill sauce. It is also beautiful as a Champagne Sorbet. The Millésime makes a perfect accompaniment with foie gras and as the Rosé de Saignée is a very fruity Champagne it is an ideal ingredient in Champagne Jelly with a fresh red berry compote.
Tasting notes:
Rosé de Saignée is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Pinot Meunier produced from maceration of the grape skins to produce its vibrant colour. Fresh redcurrant & strawberry fruit, very clean, elegant finish. Flavours are a hint herbaceous and fresh redcurrant and strawberry fruit. It has lovely acid balance and a very clean, fresh finish, with a flash of grassy crispness. It won the Silver Medal - Concours Général Agricole 2013
equal blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. A very special edition produced by the Lemaire Family to pay tribute to their Grandfather. Production is limited to 1200 numbered bottles, which are beautifully designed with capsules depicting the generations of the Lemaire family. It is blended in equal volume by the three grape varieties of Champagne to create a vibrant aroma revealing hints of vanilla and characterised by apricot and peach. Visit: http://www.rogerconstantlemaire. co.uk/index.php for more information or go to: www.htfwines.co.uk to order. If you’re interested in organising a tasting at your restaurant or bar, please contact Geri Conroy on: 01234 327 155 or at geri@rogerconstantlemaire.co.uk.
Millésime Vintage 2006: A Blanc de Blanc with the expected brioche notes, natural sweetness and elegant balance. A complex aroma of autumnal fruits (blackberry, apple, pear), almonds and brown butter. An elegant, golden, balanced champagne with an exquisite mousse and long aftertaste with hints of fruits, nuts, citrus and floral tones. Gold Medal - Chardonnay Du Monde 2012 Cuvée Roger-Constant Vintage 2007. An
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