YOUR RESOURCE FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN RETAIL BEAUTY
66 SUMMER 2020
Interview
Rodrigo Pizarro, MD of L’Oréal Australia
Skincare boom SALES SOAR THROUGH THE PANDEMIC
Road to Recovery
Beauty’s new normal
Deck the Halls
SURVIVING THE CHRISTMAS RUSH
THE NEW PERFUME
EDITOR’S LETTER It is hard to believe this is the final issue of esprit for 2020. For many, regardless of age, location or career, this year will be the toughest year of our lives. No-one could have predicted the COVID-19 pandemic that brought the globe to a standstill and many of us are still reeling from the emotional and financial impacts that 2020 has brought with it. But this issue of esprit, the summer issue, is all about moving forward and about reflecting on some of the positives that happened this year. There have been some silver linings to these horrendous COVID-19 clouds - the care, compassion, and respect that people have shown one another in this immensely difficult time must be applauded. People have used the pandemic to prioritise self-care and have dedicated more time and spent more money on skincare throughout COVID-19. In fact, skincare has proven to be one of the most resilient beauty sectors during the pandemic, with sales booming for many businesses. Sales in Australia continue to steadily grow and the global skincare market is projected to reach US$201 billion by the end of 2021. Elisabeth King reports on the exciting trends happening in skin care and looks at the most innovative brands on page 14. For our Road to Recovery feature, esprit spoke to the major brands in all categories on how they have navigated the ‘new normal’ and what changes they will retain going forward. The role of e-commerce will not replace bricks-and-mortar, but the sizeable shift to online retail means more brands will have an increasing focus on digital. More on page 22. With this in mind, we have expanded our online news section in the magazine. See what is happening in the world of online news, e-commerce, AI and more on page 54. 4| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
An ever-evolving
‘new normal’ Speaking of online beauty, how does the largest cosmetics and beauty company in the WORLD weather a global pandemic? Rodrigo Pizarro, managing director of L’Oréal Australia, sits down with Elisabeth King and shares exclusively with esprit his thoughts on e-commerce, as well as sustainability and leadership. Read more on page 18. With the festive season approaching, thankfully beauty and personal care sales are on track to soar over the crucial Christmas period. We chat to beauty advisors and find out how those working on the shop floor keep calm and carry on during the peak retail season. See what they had to say on page 71. As summer approaches, the esprit team will be spending as many lazy days by the beach as possible with a good book, an oversized hat and, of course, the perfect line-up of beauty products. We round up our top summer beauty essentials, from sunscreen to lip balm, on page 66. Meanwhile, celebrity makeup artist Michael Brown has shared with us what THE summer makeup trend is. Curious to find out more? You will have to turn to page 78. And, finally, I want to finish by saying a big “Thank you”. Thank you to the retail superheroes, the essential workers, who kept fronting up to their jobs in supermarkets or pharmacies on a daily basis. Thank you to the beauty advisors working in beauty outlets and department stores who have adapted to the changing retail landscape, providing information to consumers virtually, via social media or in other innovative ways. Thank you to the people in Victoria who have endured a second lockdown – I know many Victorian retailers have been left reeling after the state’s stage four, six-week coronavirus restrictions were introduced. Thank you to the advertisers who have
supported us and to the brands continuing to innovate and create despite the fact that the global economy has been plunged into a severe contraction. Thank you to the PR companies who have still managed to keep us up to date with webinars and Zoom meetings and to my co-workers who have rallied together and made it possible for this magazine to continue to be published and the website to be maintained. Thank you to my family who have given me strength and support, and whose sense of humour has kept me sane. There are countless other people I would like to thank but I will stop there – I do not want to start prattling on like Gwyneth Paltrow accepting her Academy Award win for Shakespeare in Love. We hope you enjoy reading this final issue of 2020 as much as we have loved putting it together. And don’t forget, if you’re looking for something to listen to over the summer break, tune into the Beauty and the Best podcast, hosted by esprit publisher Nicci Herrera, to hear from the most influential figures in the beauty retail industry. Otherwise, stay in touch via any of our social channels including Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and LinkedIn. Our weekly e-newsletter will not be delivered over the summer break, but we look forward to keeping you up-to-date with the latest retail beauty industry news in 2021. Wishing you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
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YOUR RESOURCE FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN RETAIL BEAUTY
66 SUMMER 2020
Interview
Rodrigo Pizarro, MD of L’Oréal Australia
Skincare boom
issue
66
Contents
SALES SOAR THROUGH THE PANDEMIC
Subscribe to esprit Magazine Australia’s online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips and more. Road to Recovery
www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au
Beauty’s new normal
Deck the Halls
SURVIVING THE CHRISTMAS RUSH
EspritMagazineAustralia
Bathefex The Bathefex brand is made from natural ingredients and is vegan-friendly and crueltyfree. The brand, based in Sydney, Australia, try and source as many local ingredients as possible to bring consumers a spa-worthyesque experience every day at home. It all started with bath salts. And it’s the salts that make Bathefex stand out from the rest. Unlike many other commercial bath salts, which are crystalline, Bathefex salts dissolve quickly, giving all bath lovers more time to enjoy relaxing and less time waiting. The Bathefex range also includes complimentary cleansing bars, as well as ‘me-time’ treatment masks to revive and nurture. Bathefex celebrates the joy of bathing and its ability to transform the mind and bring welcome respite for sore muscles. Bathefex believes in the art of bathing, it is a ritual the brand lives and breathes.
Contact details
esprit Magazine Australia
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Founder, Commercial & Creative Consultant espritAndrea Magazine Australia Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 Consultant Founder, Commercial & Creative E: andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au Andrea Ferrari M: and +61Commercial (0)410 067 966 Publisher Manager E: andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au Nicci Herrera M: and +61Commercial (0)426 826 977 Publisher Manager E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au Nicci Herrera M: +61 Editor (0)426 826 977 E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 Editor (0)402 277 286 E: michelle@esprit-magazine.com.au Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 277 286 Art(0)402 Director E: michelle@esprit-magazine.com.au Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au Art Director Leanne Hogbin NEW MAILING ADDRESS E: esprit leanne@intermedia.com.au Magazine Australia P.O. Box 55,MAILING Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia NEW ADDRESS esprit Magazine Australia Subscription Rates P.O. Box$132.00 55, Glebe, per NSW annum2037 (Aus)Australia $167.70 per annum (NZ) Subscription Rates $205.20 per per annum annum (Aus) (Int) $132.00 All rates are inclusive and AUS$. $167.70 per annum (NZ) Articles that$205.20 appear in Magazine peresprit annum (Int) Australia may not All be reproduced without permission rates are inclusive and AUS$. of the publishers. Theappear opinions in espritAustralia Magazine Articles that in expressed esprit Magazine Australia not necessarily thosepermission of the publishers. may not are be reproduced without of the publishers. The opinions expressed in esprit Magazine Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd Australia –are not necessarily those ofGroup the publishers. a division of Intermedia 41 Bridge Glebe Media NSW 2037 Published by Rd, Percolate Pty Ltd P: 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 – a02division of Intermedia Group ACN: 613NSW 583 2037 41 Bridge Rd,629 Glebe 64:2113 ISSNF:1449-8018 P: 02Issue 9660 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583 Issue 64: ISSN 1449-8018
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Previous issues
4
Editor’s Letter
52 Buyers Lists – Chemist Warehouse
6 Contents
54 Online news
8 Contributors
58 M y Journey – Ai San Beaumont, La Prairie
10 Cover Story – Chemcorp 12 Trend – The Skincare Boom 16 I nterview – Rodrigo Pizarro, managing director of L’Oréal Australia 20 T alking Point – The Road to Recovery
60 Fragrance News – Ainslie Walker 63 WELLNESS 64 Soul Mate Search – Andrea Ferrari 66 Summer Essentials 68 O ne Step to Freedom – Olivia Ferrari
29 Industry News
70 INFLUENCER
38 Elizabeth Arden’s latest launch
71 Beauty & the Best
41 évolis® Professional
74 Aussie Made
42 The Future of Sunscreen
76 Purchasing a Fragrance Online – Icy Ling
43 In and Online 46 5 Minutes with Shane Warne
78 T HE Summer Makeup Trend – Michael Brown
48 Pharmacy News
80 Brand News
51 BUSINESS
82 Have You Met Madison Drabble?
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Contributors AINSLIE WALKER
Founder
Commercial & Creative Consultant ANDREA FERRARI
One of her proudest professional moments was winning Beauty Directory’s first-ever Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism in 2011 peer-voted recognition. Andrea founded esprit Magazine Australia in 2004 coming from a heritage of founding the original Esprit in the UK in 1987. Armed with a diploma in Fashion Journalism from the London College of Fashion, Andrea completed her journalism training on the job at IPC Business Press on the leading weekly trade magazine, Hairdressers Journal. In the late 70s, London’s print and fashion industries were both hotbeds of creativity and Andrea cut her teeth as a writer and interviewer in the company of accomplished mentors. Becoming editor of Beauty Counter, the UK pharmacy trade journal, she learned the power of the pharmacy assistant in the customer-to-purchase relationship. In 1987 Andrea fulfilled a gap in the UK market for a trade magazine for the retail beauty industry. Emigrating to Australia in 2003, she created esprit for the Australian market.
Associate Editor
Business Features
ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the bestselling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010. She is also the beauty editor of House & Garden magazine and a weekly columnist for beautydirectory.com.au.
Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014. Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com.
OLIVIA FERRARI Olivia is an English-born medium, masseuse and yoga teacher, based in Sydney’s inner west. Olivia has a customised approach to each individual client’s mind and body wellness derived from learnings she has gained from her studies and experience in Cambodia, India, Byron Bay and Sydney.
EMILY BENCIC As deputy editor of Appliance Retailer and editor of Retailbiz within the Intermedia Group, Emily has more than five years of experience writing about the local and global retail industry, as well as the appliance and technology sectors, covering the latest news from big brand retailers.
ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments. 8| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
ICY LING Ni Hao (which means ‘Hello’ in Chinese). My name is Icy Ling, known as icybutterfly. Some people think I am an Australian Chinese influencer. Actually, I work for an East Coast, well recognised - high fashion, lifestyle and beauty magazine (to local Chinese), called ‘Indulgence’. After working in retail, evolving to become a blogger and freelance editor, I have now become a senior fashion and beauty editor, also leading the magazine’s digital team – busy, but I am truly grateful for being able to work for my passion.
MICHAEL BROWN Growing up as a dancer , Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of makeup artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as Marc Jacobs Beauty Ambassador.
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Epsom Salt Bathefex Revamps Packaging and Extends Range As All-Round Beauty and Health Staple by Elisabeth King At the beginning of the year, GlobalData, a leading analytics and consultancy firm to many of the world’s largest companies, unveiled its mega-trend predictions for 2020. High on the list was Back-to-Basics, a minimalist approach to beauty where consumers focus on essential products. Followed by 360 Degree Wellbeing, as people of all ages become more prone to stress, anxiety and feelings of fatigue. The COVID-19 crisis has intensified both trends, which were already wellestablished. Over the past few years, there has also been a strong resurgence of vintage products with multi-benefits. One of the most popular revivals has been Epsom Salt. Celebrity fans of this trusted cure-all include Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Lawrence, Elle McPherson and Victoria Beckham, who view the efficacious old favourite as a modern beauty staple for everything from destressing to body exfoliation. NEW VERSIONS WITH CALMING, RECOVERY AND EASY BREATHING BENEFITS AND NATURAL MASKS The Bathefex brand, distributed by Chemcorp International, was launched five years ago. As a major beneficiary of recent wellbeing trends such as Self-Care Sunday and Me Time, the packaging and products have been re-developed to reflect consumer needs and wants strengthened by coronavirus lockdown restrictions. A truly affordable everyday luxury prices begin at $8.99 for a 750g pack of fragrance-free Epsom Salt, rising to $12.99 for the popular Lavender + Green Tea and Lime + Lemongrass versions in 1.4 kilo packs. The range has recently 10| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
been expanded with the addition of key aromatherapy ingredients, including Epsom Salt with Lemon Myrtle to help active recovery, Tuberose + Jasmine with calming benefits and Eucalyptus + Peppermint to clear sinuses and promote easier breathing. Two new masks for feet, legs and hands featuring quality natural ingredients such as shea butter, coconut oil and Vitamin E will retail for $9.99. With summer approaching, another Bathefex favourite is the popular Soft Sole Express Exfoliating Foot Peel, which fast-tracks sandal-ready feet within two weeks. According to Erica Galea, marketing manager at Chemcorp, the company is excited to now be partnering with local producers to source and develop locally-made products. “MAGIC” FIX FOR BLOATING, STRESS RELIEF AND BETTER SLEEP Pharmacies, health food stores and supermarkets are selling record volumes of Epsom Salt. But its healing properties were discovered in the 17th century close to a mineral spring in the English town of Epsom in Surrey. The “magic” ingredient is not a salt but magnesium sulphate. Word spread rapidly and the town became a spa destination. Magnesium is the second most abundant mineral in the body after calcium and over the centuries knowledge of the many benefits of Epsom Salt have extended far beyond its old-time reputation as a remedy for arthritis and constipation. A relaxing bath remains a favourite way to enjoy the core benefits of Epsom Salt such as de-stressing the mind and drawing out toxins. A 20-minute soak has long been popular with athletes and celebrities such as Victoria Beckham,
SOOTHES ACHES AND PAINS / TOP TREATMENT FOR ECZEMA AND PSORIASIS During the summer months outdoor activities like jogging and new fitness routines are high on many people’s to-do list. But sudden increased activity can lead to aches and pains in the muscles. An Epsom Salt bath helps to alleviate soreness after a hard workout or sitting or standing all day. Some researchers believe that the chemical composition of magnesium sulphate helps to de-sensitise pain receptors in the body. Sprains and bruises also respond well to a chilled-out soak infused with Epsom Salt. In a study published in Clinical Rheumatology, scientists found that people with rheumatoid arthritis who soaked in an Epsom Salt bath felt better than a control group who bathed in salt water. Over one million Australians suffer from eczema. A study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that an Epsom Salt bath helped to reduce the inflammation and dry skin associated with the condition. Psoriasis is another common skin problem in Australia. The National Psoriasis Association in the US recommends Epsom Salt as a natural remedy to remove the itchy, painful scaling in mild cases. But skin must be moisturised afterwards as dry skin can exacerbate psoriasis. FOOT RELIEF / AN AFFORDABLE LUXURY FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY If there’s no time for a full body soak, a foot bath with Epsom Salt not only soothes aches and pains after a run or a long day in heels, it also helps to prevent and treat athlete’s foot because it acts as a drying agent. A 20-minute foot bath containing Epsom Salt is also a great remedy for foot odour in both sexes. Epsom Salt is a beauty budgeteer’s go-to because it only costs a fraction of prestige beauty products. A 750g or 1.4 kilo pack of Bathefex unfragranced or scented Epsom
Salt is a resource for the whole family, providing a multitude of high-performing treatments for the whole body from head to toe. Bathefix has wide distribution nationwide through Big W, leading pharmacy groups and online.
COVER STORY
who claim the treatment fast-tracks a flatter stomach and more streamlined figure because Epsom Salt helps to reduce water retention and bloating. Researchers have found that magnesium increases the production of serotonin (the so-called happiness hormone), which helps to stabilise mood and relieve stress and anxiety. Another hormone that responds to Epsom Salt is melatonin, the hormone which helps to promote a good night’s sleep.
QUICK AND EASY BEAUTY HACKS WITH BATHEFEX EPSOM SALT • A natural cleanser, mix a teaspoon of Bathefex Epsom Salt with your usual cleanser and massage gently for an instant facial. • For a luxurious all-over body scrub, celebrity skincare guru Ole Henriksen recommends a mix of a half cup each Epsom Salt and coffee grounds mixed with a teaspoon of eucalyptus oil and enough sesame oil to form a paste. Particularly good for those who suffer from “bacne” - spots on the back. • The Epsom Salt Council in the UK recommend mixing one part hair conditioner and one part Epsom Salt as a volumising hair mask. Work the mixture into the hair, leave for 20 minutes and rinse off. • An unsightly bruise on the leg? Soak a face cloth with one cup of water infused with two tablespoons of Bathefex Epsom Salt and apply to the skin as a compress. • Sinusitis or a stuffy nose caused by hay fever are common problems during summer. Use Bathefex Eucalyptus + Peppermint Epsom Salt mixed with hot water as an inhalant. • The anti-inflammatory properties of Epsom Salt may help to ease the pain of sunburn. Add two cups of Bathefex Epsom Salt to lukewarm bathwater.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |11
The SKINCARE BOOM The COVID-19 effect has fuelled a boom in skincare with Australians seeking science-backed, anti-ageing and derm ingredients. by Elisabeth King
Skincare has proved the most resilient beauty sector during the global COVID-19 pandemic. The category was already on a roll because of the rise of the no-makeup look and ageing populations in key regional markets. Sales in Australia have grown at an average of 7 per cent over the past two years and the global skincare market is projected to reach US$201 billion by the end of 2021. Natural and organic skincare have grabbed a major chunk of the spotlight but that might not be enough in 2020, says Euromonitor International. According to the researcher, 40 per cent of consumers preferred proven efficacy over natural and organic claims. Natural claims could benefit from being grouped with these claims that work best for an individual skin type, as efficacy continues to take priority over natural, says Gabrielle Beckwith, senior analyst for beauty and fashion of Euromonitor. ACTIVES PROPEL INNOVATION / ANTI-AGEING CROSSES DEMOGRAPHICS
A viewpoint borne out by the 2020 in-Cosmetics Innovation Zone and Green Ingredient Awards. New skincare ingredients dominated the Best Active Ingredient and Best Functional Ingredient short lists. “We are continuing to be inspired to see the resilience and innovation demonstrated by the personal care and cosmetics industry,” says Roziani Zulfiki, exhibition director for in-Cosmetics Global. Even though there has been an upsurge in interest in natural, organic and clean skincare, the global active ingredient market is still driven by a desire for more efficacious products and the willingness of consumers to pay a premium for results-based solutions, says the Kline Group, the global marketing and consultancy firm. Key area that will springboard the most opportunity in skincare are antiageing, anti-pollution and biotechnology. The focus on anti-ageing has re-bounded and demand is distributed across several age groups. According to Social Standards, the US company which tracks 125 million unique keywords on social posts, 85 per cent of anti-ageing conversations on social media are 12| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
attributed to women. Younger women aged 25 to 29 have been consistent about talking about anti-ageing for over two years - an average of 32 per cent. In the 55 to 64-year age group, there has been a steady increase in talk about anti-ageing since the beginning of this year. GENERATION SILVER / STRONG ASIAN INFLUENCE
Generation Silver, covering 60 per cent of Baby Boomers and older Gen Xers, has by far the most disposable income in major developed countries like Australia, the US and the UK. Despite the increasing use of older models in ad campaigns, 60 per cent still want to look five to 10 years younger says BASF, the world’s largest chemical producer and leading manufacturer of skincare actives. Many are also highly educated and want to know what skincare products work and why. A report from Mintel reveals that 70 per cent of women aged 55plus want beauty brands to discuss the ageing process. An attitude which is even stronger in Asia where a high percentage of women start using anti-ageing skincare in their 20s. Other in-depth research from BASF found that key words used by consumers when it comes to anti-ageing benefits are: antioxidant, plump, smooth, wrinkles and speed of results. Core concerns include skin barrier strengthening, pH balance, repair and improvement of skin tone, adds Mintel data. As the fastest-growing skincare market, developments in Asia are setting the pace in skincare. By 2050, nearly 1.3 billion of the world’s older people will live in Asia. In Japan, for example, women older than 50 already account for half the sales in the Japanese beauty market - a hefty US$27 billion a year. In the US, 32 per cent of women will be aged 55-plus within the next two years. MORE BENEFITS / MASS AND PRESTIGE GAINS
With consumers young and old on the hunt for anti-ageing and preventative skincare, innovation is booming. A strong trend in place for some years is the development of products that mix science and
nature and which also address more benefits - from a reduction in lines and wrinkles through improving the skin’s structure, reducing pigmentation and increasing the production of the skin’s structural proteins - collagen and elastin - to make the skin feel firmer and more supple. Gains are evident at both ends of the price spectrum. Nielsen data reports that mass facial skincare in the US grew by 22 per cent in the first half of 2020, fueled by a 42 per cent rise in online sales. Research from the NPD Group reveals that skincare accounted for the biggest share of US prestige beauty sales from March to June, overtaking makeup. A trend likely to continue for some time adds the data tracker. In China, skincare represented 70 per cent of skincare sales in April this year. Efficacy is the most searched-for benefit, says NPD. As it is in the US, where clinical brands now dominate the US prestige beauty sector, where they accounted for 32 per cent of sales in the first half of the year. DERMATOLOGIST-RECOMMENDED ACTIVES
The COVID-19 crisis has fast-tracked the use of dermatologistrecommended actives - notably vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, retinol and glycolic acid - all of which are backed by extensive research and are now being used by many mainstream brands in higher percentages in gels, serums and capsules. Key recent launches include Olay Regenerist Retinol24, Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrate Synchronised Multi-Recovery Complex with new Chronolux S.O.S technology, Elizabeth Arden Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules and La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum. One of the biggest hits of the year in the US, the UK and Australia is L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Filler 1.5 % Hyaluronic Serum. The formula contains two types of hyaluronic acid to achieve double the anti-ageing power. With major hydrating benefits, the serum has the highest-ever concentration of hyaluronic acid of any L’Oréal Paris skincare product.
TREND
The COVID-19 crisis has fast-tracked the use of dermatologist-recommended actives – notably vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, retinol and glycolic acid – all of which are backed by extensive research and are now being used by many mainstream brands in higher percentages in gels, serums and capsules.
StriVectin’s most recent breakthrough is Super-C Retinol Serum, featuring the two anti-ageing powerhouses in its name to visibly brighten and smooth the skin. The brand’s patented NIA-114 technology not only enhances the efficacy of retinol, it also makes it more tolerable to more sensitive skins. NEW BIOTECH / INCREASING IMPORTANCE OF AI
With an eye to the future, the Estée Lauder Companies have partnered with Atropos Therapeutics in a joint venture to develop a new anti-ageing molecule. A biotech leader, Atropos is noted for its ability to identify ‘senescence modulators’, which teams well with Lauder’s expertise in scientific and botanical skincare. Skin essences, which hydrate and balance the skin with actives in a water-like consistency, are enjoying a mini-revival from Elizabeth Arden, Jurlique and other major brands. Kanebo, the Japanese prestige brand, is updating four of its core skincare products for release in October. Kanebo On Skin Essence V is formulated to penetrate the skin’s stratum corneum with an added layer of moisture and a ‘veil’ to create a glow on the skin’s surface. Artificial intelligence (AI) has become a driving factor in showcasing a product’s versatility and helping to educate consumers. Major players such as Estée Lauder, L’Oréal and Procter & Gamble have all invested in the latest emerging technologies to give consumers a more personalised approach to beauty and skincare which has intensified during the COVID-19 crisis. Olay launched the Skin Advisor app, for example, incorporating a deep-learning algorithm which analyses the skin and recommends the appropriate products to consumers. Shiseido’s Optune system analyses the skin and selects customised skincare from cartridges. Just two examples of how digitisation is impacting skincare. The final word goes to Allison Marks, education manager, professional division for the Unilever-owned Murad brand; “In 2020, consumers will continue to look to brands with medical expertise and science-backed ingredients where they can trust the products and the results.” ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |13
INTERVIEW
RODRIGO PIZARRO managing director of L’Oréal Australia
PEAK PERFORMANCE RODRIGO PIZARRO, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF L’ORÉAL AUSTRALIA, ON E-COMMERCE, SUSTAINABILITY AND LEADERSHIP
by Elisabeth King
L’Oréal is the biggest beauty company in Australia and globally. For decades, the French multinational has been a leading pioneer of corporate citizenship, innovation and expansion through acquisitions in the worldwide cosmetics industry. So how does the titan of the beauty business fasttrack its practices and mindset during a monumental year of change? Esprit talks to Rodrigo Pizarro, managing director of L’Oréal Australia and New Zealand, about new programs, technologies and strategies that have kept the company nimble and resilient during the COVID-19 pandemic. E-commerce has sky-rocketed during the 16| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
coronavirus crisis. In the first half of 2020, L’Oréal’s global e-commerce sales rose 64.6 per cent, accounting for 25 per cent of the group’s revenues. By contrast, e-commerce sales for the full year 2019 represented 15.6 per cent of the multinational’s overall business. In Australia, L’Oréal’s online sales rose 140 per cent in the June half - up from 6.5 per cent in 2019 - offsetting the drop in sales due to store closures during lockdowns nationwide. DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION IN PLACE/ DYNAMIC SALES The digital transformation is the most important change to our business, says
Pizarro. “We started the process two years ago. E-commerce sales were taking off and we established single brand e-commerce sites for five of our luxury brands and strengthened our relationships with omnichannel retailers such as Myer, David Jones and Sephora and pure player, Adore Beauty. We also have an agreement with Amazon and opened a multi-brand shopfront on eBay.” L’Oréal Australia also invested heavily in a highly automated Knapp picking and packing facility at its Melbourne distribution centre. “We were prepared for the COVID-19 crisis because our model
SKINCARE BOOM/ E-BEAUTY ADVISORS KEY Skincare sales now account for 60 per cent of L’Oréal sales in Asia/Pacific and the company’s Active Cosmetics division, including the CeraVe, SkinCeuticals and La Roche-Posay brands, which posted doubledigit growth across the region in the first half. The boom in skincare sales has been incredible, says Pizarro. “Our offerings are very broad and complementary from Lancôme to L’Oréal Paris. Our main dermo-cosmetics brand - La Roche-Posay - has seen huge growth because it deals with many concerns which have worsened during the COVID-19 pandemic such as irritation and breakouts. “To be a leader, you have to listen to consumers and the success of La RochePosay demonstrates the importance of providing what consumers want and need. Sales of hair products, hair colourants and masks have also increased, but we are also looking at what comes next and customisation and auto-replenishment are top-of-mind.” Digitally-enhanced experiences, centralised platforms and digital content were already high on the agenda for the beauty industry. But the COVID-19 crisis drastically altered customer-facing and company-facing trends. Sophisticated digital appointment platforms are allowing customers to shop and receive advise and focused attention from beauty advisors. The shift has produced more connected personal experiences both in-store and online. “The stronger emphasis in e-beauty advisors isn’t just transactional,” says Pizarro. “The pandemic also allowed our amazing team of BAs to upskill through LinkedIn, social media and livestreaming.
Consumers can talk to BAs in real time and we are seeing a more personal connection with brands. The important thing is to achieve a balance between in-store and online and the new strategies remain all about trust, so we have the best of both worlds. We had already been encouraging all employees, including myself, to use Instagram and other social media to reach out to consumers.” WORKING TOWARDS A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE L’Oréal released its global sustainability program for 2030 in July. Titled L’Oréal for the Future, key areas of focus include climate change, fresh water usage, ozone depletion and ocean acidification. Core targets include carbon neutrality by 2025, 100 per cent re-used or recycled water by 2030 and 95 per cent of ingredients in formulas to be bio-based by 2030. Other goals cover 100 per cent of the plastics in packaging to be from recycled or bio-based sources by 2030, 100 per cent of employees from strategic suppliers to be paid at least a living wage and helping 100,000 people from disadvantaged communities to gain access to employment over the coming decade. To date, L’Oréal is the only company in the world to achieve an “A” in all three CDP rankings - climate protection, water management and forest preservation - for four years in a row. To be carbon neutral is a global policy for L’Oréal and the company has made
INTERVIEW
is as much about tomorrow as it is for today,” says Pizarro. “We did it ourselves and can now access more first party data. Some partners do not share data and we are now ahead of the curve with our CRM (customer relationship management). We leverage our own sites and also have more brands on more sites.” Overall sales have remained surprisingly strong during the pandemic because of the rise in online sales and changes to our service strategies, says Pizarro. “It’s been a tough moment for everyone, but in a humble way we have been lucky. With the exception of Victoria, sales have been very dynamic in all the other states. Some segments such as makeup have been negative, but skincare and haircare sales have helped us get through the crisis relatively unscathed.”
great strides in Australia, says Pizarro. “We seriously started to pursue green and sustainability issues in 2009. Not just from the inside but upstream and downstream in our operations. Social sustainability is an important as environmental sustainability and L’Oréal has been at the forefront of both throughout our operations. Sustainability is also the driving force for all of our new product launches from formulas to packaging.” AN INCLUSIVE AND COLLABORATIVE WORKPLACE
As a subsidiary of an international company, L’Oréal Australia was not eligible for the JobKeeper program. The headquarters are in Melbourne and the business has experienced the strictest of lockdowns, says Pizarro. “Returning to the office has been very slow for our employees and the warehouse staff are working in three shifts. Safety and social distancing have been paramount, but in my opinion good leadership involves leading from the heart as well as the head. We have offered our employees total support 24/7, directly and indirectly. People don’t like uncertainty, so we have included a strong program of connection from emotional and mental help to exercise such as pilates and yoga. My passion is to shape a work environment that is inclusive, diverse and collaborative, which leads to the best results.”
FAST FACTS – RODRIGO PIZARRO • Rodrigo Pizarro is a graduate of ISEG, the Lisbon School of Economics and Management. • He started his career with L’Oréal in 1993 as a product manager for hair colour in Portugal. • He has held senior executive positions in France and Brazil. • With extensive international experience in marketing, sales and general management, Pizarro was appointed country manager of L’Oréal Australia and New Zealand in August 2014. • Over the past six years, he has accelerated the company’s digital transformation and an integrated CRM program, embedding the use of tracking tools to monitor and measure social media activity to advance the local L’Oréal e-commerce business. • L’Oréal Luxe is a portfolio of leading prestige brands, including Lancôme, Ralph Lauren, YSL Beauty, Giorgio Armani, Viktor & Rolf, Urban Decay and Kiehl’s. The core brands of the Consumer Products Division include L’Oréal Paris, Maybelline New York, Garnier and NYX. The main brands of the Active Cosmetics division are La Roche-Posay, CeraVe and SkinCeuticals. • L’Oréal Professional Products division comprises professional haircare brands sold mainly in hairdressers - Kerastase, Pureology, Redken, Matrix and L’Oréal Professionnel.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |17
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TALKING POINT
MOVING FORWARD
The Road to Recovery by Elisabeth King
Pivot has become the word of the moment. During the COVID-19 pandemic, beauty shoppers have been fasttracked to a new way of doing things from virtual skincare consultations to at-home self-care. Many beauty companies were already enjoying a huge uptick in online sales and the coronavirus crisis has cemented the trend into a longterm change in consumer behaviour – both for brands and bricks-and- mortar retailers. The role of social media in staying in touch, educating and reaching out to customers has also expanded enormously. esprit talks to major brands in all categories on how they have navigated the “new normal” and what innovations they will retain going forward. There was already a consumer shift towards purchasing beauty products online that we identified a couple of years ago, says Matthijs van der Putten, chief marketing officer L’Oréal Australia & New Zealand. “As a result, we were prepared for a surge in online sales. COVID-19 accelerated a market trend that was already emerging. We achieved 20| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
Matthijs van der Putten CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER, L’ORÉAL AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND
a +140 percent growth in our e-commerce revenue in the first half of 2020.” E-commerce represents 15 per cent of L’Oréal Australia’s total business, says Putten. “Our e-commerce strength comes from a diversified footprint. We have our own direct-to-consumer websites for luxury brands such as Lancôme and Kiehl’s. We
also partner with pure players such as Adore Beauty and have also achieved strong growth with our traditional retail partners such as Myer, Mecca and Woolworths. The Australian consumer was late in the adoption of e-commerce and we assume that the majority of current growth will be permanent and consumers will continue to buy online after the pandemic is over.” NUMBER ONE MEDICAL AESTHETICS BRAND / INCREASE OF E-BAS / ROLE OF E-COMMERCE DOESN’T REPLACE BRICKS-AND-MORTAR
Our Active Cosmetics Division, including La Roche-Posay, SkinCeuticals and CeraVe, has been leading the way in regard to virtual events during the pandemic, says Nikita Papas, L’Oréal Australia, Active Cosmetics Division communications
Nikita Papas, ACTIVE COSMETICS DIVISION COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER, L’ORÉAL AUSTRALIA
manager. “This year, SkinCeuticals evolved its acclaimed Master Physician Dinner Series into the Master Physician Virtual Series (MPVS). The MPVS initiative is a strategic online business building event to drive patient connection, clinic revenues and business efficiencies during this globally challenging period and beyond. “SkinCeuticals has now hosted five informative and engaging virtual events, showcasing an array of both international and local luminaries that have attracted record online audiences comprised predominantly of dermatologists, plastic surgeons and cosmetic doctors. As the number one medical aesthetic skincare brand worldwide, the MPVS initiative has positioned SkinCeuticals as an innovative and progressive thought leader within the medical skincare arena.” Both La Roche-Posay and CeraVe have hosted live-streamed media events showcasing the expertise of partner dermatologists to address skincare concerns such as acne, dry and sensitive skin, says Papas. “Most recently, La Roche-Posay partnered with acclaimed dermatologist, Dr Jo-Ann See, to create three IGTV Effaclar virtual skincare consultations that reached an audience of 600,000-plus. “In October, CeraVe will ignite an exciting virtual global PR event that will be geared to the promotion of the brand’s dermatologist-developed, ceramide-infused cleaners. This initiative will attract media tastemakers - influencers and editors - from across the globe and will feature a stellar lineup of guest dermatologists.” Closing the gap between the online and offline experience has been the priority for us, says Ricardo Schmidt Diaz, head of digital and e-commerce, L’Oréal Luxury Division, including the Lancôme,
Ricardo Schmidt Diaz HEAD OF DIGITAL AND E-COMMERCE, L’ORÉAL LUXURY DIVISION
YSL Beauty and Giorgio Armani brands. “At-home skin consultations, live makeup tutorials, product advice and recommendations have drastically changed how we connect to customers in these difficult times. “The resilience and adaptability of our teams was key in the implementation of new features such as video one-onone consultations, LiveChat and online masterclasses on our sites, which have been paramount in helping our brands provide the services our customers are accustomed to.” Our efforts have been aimed at staying close to the Australian consumer and, as they
shifted to online shopping, we had to shift with them, he adds. “It was a steep learning curve for us, and we had to increase our team of e-beauty advisors to provide better service on LiveChat and upskill our teams on new tech and platforms. We also increased our customer service team in response to a larger number of customer enquiries. “We also noticed a shift away from lips, primarily to hand creams, body lotions, masks and skincare. Staying at home during lockdown has increased the demand for self-care and pampering products.” At Estée Lauder, our e-commerce site has experienced strong growth for some time, but we saw this accelerate - sometimes to triple growth - during the past quarter as consumer habits shifted, says Michelle Caris, online manager for Estée Lauder.
Michelle Caris ONLINE MANAGER, ESTEE LAUDER
“In May, one of our promotions generated x10 the average daily site traffic and x85 the average daily revenue which demonstrated the channel’s huge potential.” The shift to online will change the retail landscape, adds Caris. “But the role of e-commerce does not take away bricks-and-mortar. An amazing in-store experience can never be replaced. Rather, by encouraging more people to shop online we can introduce technology - such as segmentation and personalisation - to enhance the overall consumer journey.” The Estée Lauder Companies are at the forefront of creating amazing digital experiences and have introduced numerous innovations to translate the service offered in store by BAs, says Caris. “Self-service tools such as Skincare Routine Finder, Foundation Finder and Virtual Try-On have really come into their own during lockdown because users can explore and experience products at any time on any device. In Australia, we have seen users who use Virtual Try-On spend five times longer on site and are nearly twice as likely to make a purchase. We will see more such innovations throughout our website as consumer habits continue to rapidly change.” ELEVATED SERVICE REPEATED ONLINE / CUSTOMER JOURNEY NOT LINEAR / SAMPLES KEY TO ONLINE RETENTION
During the coronavirus crisis, La Prairie has taken the opportunity to fully solidify its position as a luxury house, says Rosi Fernandez, La Prairie, managing director Australia and New Zealand.
Rosi Fernandez MANAGING DIRECTOR, AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND LA PRAIRIE
“We have maintained our elevated standards of service, whilst adapting what that means to individual cities. What is most important is the care we have shown to our teams, our clients and our retailers, reinforcing our personalised and long-term approach to relationships and business.” All our online stores have experienced significant growth, says Fernandez. “We have continued to create new ways to elevate our service to ensure that the same bespoke connection also happens virtually. LiveChat and personalised phone calls are just some of the additional services now available. “Given our intimate relationships with our loyal clients, we have offered whatever communication method they prefer from Zoom consultations, WhatsApp, emails, letters and WeChat to name a few. What continues to resonate most is the phone calls because our core clients appreciate that we know them and stay connected beyond the selling process.” We manage our entire distribution centre in-house to store and online, says Fernandez. “As a result, we have not seen any notable disruption to service. The shift has been from larger to smaller online orders and, of course, the multitude of care packages we have sent to staff and clients.” Clarins.com.au, as well as the e-commerce platforms of our retail partners, have experienced an unprecedented growth trajectory during the first half of the year, says Jerome Bellony, managing director, Groupe Clarins. “This trend is showing
Jerome Bellony MANAGING DIRECTOR, GROUPE CLARINS
no sign of abating and has allowed us to continue with our high touch marketing approach when the in-store experience was not viable because of store closures during Covid-19 lockdowns. “However, the customer journey is not linear and the Clarins customer is not shopping exclusively in one channel. Crafting a distinct brand strategy for our own website allows us to complement our in-store retailer strategies for a seamless experience that rewards customers in the channels where they prefer to shop.” Generous sampling has always been a ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |21
TALKING POINT
cornerstone of the Clarins brand strategy and samples were shipped directly to customers in those states with more restrictive lockdowns such as Victoria, says Bellony. “This approach resulted in an increased new-to-file rate and improved retention rates online. We also doubled down on both brand and non-brand search terms, in addition to refining our re-targeting strategy for visitors to site, abandoned carts and lapsed guests, which has resulted in a positive impact on ROI. By improving customers’ online check-out experience, we are capturing more quality data for our CRM program Clarins C - allowing for a more personalised program tailored to specific audience sets across eDMs, social and digital advertising.” Clarins has made several strategic pivots to streamline distribution in the ANZ business, including consolidating our DTC (direct-to-consumer) and third-party retailer warehousing systems for both goods receiving and order dispatch, says Bellony. “This consolidation will see significant improvements in stock coverage, allowing us to be more strategic and nimble in SKU allocation between online/offline channels, as well as improved shipping times for New Zealand. By working closely with our affiliate partners within the ANZ region, we have become more agile with the redistribution of products between countries to minimise excess and maximise sales.” Jacques Courtin-Clarins, the founder of the company, invented CRM in the beauty industry and was one of the first to include client feedback cards, says Bellony. “Today, customers leave reviews and feedback via online channels. They expect immediate service through the channel of their choice - email, a phone call or social media. We have upskilled our team to directly manage consumers enquiries, whether it’s a direct online order or any other matter requiring a strong human touch to improve consumer relations and strengthen brand equity. “We also made a quick pivot to re-deploy our BAs as virtual consultants. The Clarins & Me program allows customers to book 15-minute virtual consultations with a BA directly from clarins.com.au. Leveraging the opportunity for virtual one-on-one communication created opportunities for our BAs and training team to build a sophisticated digital service that replicated an in-store experience.” Skincare has been a major winner as other categories have declined during the COVID-19 pandemic. “As a heritage skincare brand, Clarins has enjoyed a strong uptick in sales because of consumers’ 22| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
renewed focus on the sector, says Bellony. “We have seen an increased demand for entry-level products, including our cleansers, toners and niche product categories such as facial essences. The eye care category has also proved popular and we are launching a new eye product in October - Total Eye Lift - suitable for women of all ages.” ONLINE SUCCESS ACROSS A BROAD RANGE OF SKUS / ANOTHER LAYER OF SERVICE
L’Occitane has seen a lift in e-commerce revenues across a broad range of products, says Pierre-Emmanuel Joffre, General Manager, L’Occitane Australia. “For the
Pierre-Emmanuel Joffre GENERAL MANAGER, L’OCCITANE AUSTRALIA
last quarter of the fiscal year, our online sales grew 203 per cent over the same period in 2019. With the introduction of services such as Click & Collect, Call & Collect and Beauty Concierge Service, we have seen a shift to online among shoppers who were typically in-store dominant and we expect this growth to continue.” L’Occitane worked with the Australian Nursing & Midwifery Federation to distribute hand creams for frontline nurses and midwives nationwide during the pandemic. “In May, we experienced a surge in sales of soaps and hand creams both up 466 per cent - by contrast to the same month last year. We launched a new verbena-scented hand sanitiser in August, which has also proved very popular”. We have experienced significant growth in sales and conversion on our Jurlique e-commerce site in Australia, says Olivier Duvillard, general manager ANZ, Jurlique International. “We have seen a 70 per cent
Olivier Duvillard GENERAL MANAGER ANZ, JURLIQUE INTERNATIONAL
increase in sales by comparison to year-to-date 2019, together with a 65 per cent increase in conversion rate. To better engage with customers, we have made our online content more focused on skincare knowledge. Online sales increased 118 per cent during the peak of the COVID-19 crisis from March to May.” Jurlique launched LiveChat in midApril, which offered another layer of customer service, says Duvillard. “There has been a very positive reaction by
customers to the instant assistance software. We also launched our Virtual Skin care Consultations, a complimentary service which can be booked online and allows customers to chat one-on-one with a BA.” Our biggest sales driver has been the wellness space, adds Duvillard. “During the second quarter of the year, sales of hand care increased 248.05 per cent, followed by essential oils (+154.89%) and face masks (+ 104.28%), by contrast to the same period in 2019.” ONLINE GROWTH OPPORTUNITIES AMONG OLDER CONSUMERS / FUSING THE BEST OF OFFLINE AND ONLINE
Most Australians now shop online some of the time - 84 per cent according to IRI - says Julie Dejean, marketing director for Avène and Klorane. “From March to
Julie Dejean, MARKETING DIRECTOR, AVÈNE AND KLORANE
June, more shoppers increased their online spending, but broad penetration growth opportunities still exist, notably among older consumers. At Pierre Fabre Australia, online sales and digital acceleration has been a focus for the past two years. During the COVID-19 crisis, we have experienced triple digit growth in online sales.” We believe in an omnichannel strategy, fusing the best of online and offline because necessity has been a major force in accelerated online adoption, says Dejean. “We have developed strong partnerships with our online retailers to support e-commerce growth, as well as click & collect, which has also seen a huge increase during the pandemic. Having dedicated promotional offers and increased content has been key to a successful e-retail strategy.” We rapidly adopted new strategies to reach our customers virtually, says Dejean. “We started running weekly Instagram live content covering different topics. This was a great opportunity to have direct conversations with our customers, in addition to answering their product enquiries. “We also ran a couple of competitions on social media to win virtual consultations with Janis McNicholas, our national training manager. Consumers could also win a year’s supply of their recommended Avène products during the consultation. A consumer webinar discussed new products as well as offering tips and trick and we conducted media webinars to replace physical launch events. Our training team also conducted weekly webinars for BAs
and pharmacy staff to educate them about our products and help them maintain a great level of service.” There’s certainly been an increased demand for hand creams, gentle cleansers and moisturisers during the coronavirus crisis, says Dejean. “The Avène XeraCalm and Cicalfate ranges have both enjoyed double digit growth. Masks have also seen a big increase, notably our Avène Hydrance Sleeping Mask, launched in March. Maskne - acne caused by wearing a face mask - has also surged and we have introduced Avène Cleanance Comedomed anti-blemish concentrate, designed to regulate excess sebum.” DIY RULES / RENEWED FOCUS ON WELLBEING
In our experience, the latest skincare trend of DIY treatments, combined with the impacts of COVID-19 on beauty behaviours, has created a resurgence and a re-education on basic beauty treatments and how to bring that in-home, says Juliette Toolin, marketing manager, Essential Beauty for McPherson’s Consumer Products.
Juliette Toolin MARKETING MANAGER, ESSENTIAL BEAUTY, MCPHERSON’S CONSUMER PRODUCTS
“Essential treatments like the mani/pedi have fuelled a rise in implement and tools sales for Manicare. As the market-leading brand in the sector, content generation such as our suite of how-to YouTube tutorials has been instrumental in educating consumers on at-home treatments.” The latest casual hair fashions in hair, combined with the lockdown behaviour of ‘minimal effort’ saw a demand in sales for Lady Jayne basics such as the Claw Grip, no-fuss slides and athleisure headbands, says Toolin. “Our Feel Good Friday digital campaign is focused on bringing a little bit of joy on our social and digital channels to connect with our loyal consumer base.” Many brands in our portfolio have experienced an uplift in online sales, says Jodie Phillips, general manager, Chemcorp International. “1000 Hour
Jodie Phillips GENERAL MANAGER, CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL
was probably our most notable success story, which certainly shows that the brow boom isn’t going anywhere soon. Dr Teal’s
bath and body products also saw increased sales as more people invested in self-care. As more stores re-opened, the initial and rapid online sales peak has steadied, but certainly hasn’t declined. I think that online shopping and DIY beauty will continue to be a really viable choice for many consumers who weren’t previous converts.” We have experienced a significant volume of customer queries regarding DIY brow and lash care, says Phillips. “We definitely harnessed this influx in consumer demand to work on education-based information relevant to end-consumers. But also to our BAs, who can utilise this information for their own educational benefit and as a handy resource for customers. Developing virtual training content for brands, including Real Techniques and SheaMoisture, in order to support our retail partners has also helped them with training roadshows in the move from IRL to virtual.” The renewed consumer focus on wellbeing has been the most noticeable trend over the past few months, says Phillips. “Dr Teal’s Epsom Salts Soak have performed exceptionally well. Sales of SheaMoisture treatment masks have skyrocketed. With beauty salons closed, we have seen sales surges in 1000 Hour Lash & Brow Dye Kits and Instant Brow Mascara. It was really exciting to team up with experts like Amy Jean to help educate consumers further.” NATURAL ON A ROLL / CHANGE IN LONG-TERM BUYING BEHAVIOUR
The Jojoba Company invested in its e-commerce platform in 2019, says Monica Rivandie, e-commerce manager. “We
Monica Rivandie E-COMMERCE MANAGER, THE JOJOBA COMPANY
were prepared for a huge surge in online interest and this also allowed us to focus on our customers through digital channels, fueling double digit growth. Our online sales mix more than doubled by contrast to 2019. This development has obviously impacted marketing decisions and we are now focused on virtual.digital education events for customers and internal communications.” According to Vicki Engsall, co-founder
Vicki Engsall CO-FOUNDER, THE JOJOBA COMPANY
of The Jojoba Company, they normally educate their BAs via our sales team or en masse at conferences. “This year, instead of face-to-face training, we created a training video which we are using to train store staff. We have recently been doing a lot of Facebook Live and Instagram TV events as well. We did a virtual masterclass with some beauty influencers recently, which was a great success and created a lot of content for us as well.” Shoppers have increasingly turned to online and feel-good natural products over the past few months, says Charmaine Pichler, marketing manager, Weleda Australia. “Not only from our own online
Charmaine Pichler MARKETING MANAGER, WELEDA AUSTRALIA
store, but from our retail partners as well. From baby care to facial care, many consumers are opting to order online because of the convenience or have restricted options which make online purchasing their only option. We believe there will be a change in long-term buying behaviour and are working closely with our retail partners to ensure increased stock availability, sampling options and support across digital channels.” Self-care products, in particular comforting bath milks or pampering body oils, have been in high demand over the past few months, says Pichler. “When we launched our limited edition Feel Good Shower in July, the product sold out within days. In addition, nourishing products such as our iconic Skin Food, which is great for hands dehydrated from frequent washing and sanitising, as well as our Blemished Skin care range for congestions caused by wearing face masks, have also been popular.” UTILISING BA KNOWLEDGE VIRTUALLY / INSTAGRAM GREAT MARKETING TOOL
Deciem achieved its best sales results on record during April and May this year, says Nicola Kilner, Deciem co-founder and CEO. “We shifted our offline retail strategy to
Nicola Kilner CO-FOUNDER AND CEO, DECIEM
online with the launch of Deciem at Home. We had anticipated a slower expectation of demand for the virtual service, which meant that in the first week we could only answer ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |23
TALKING POINT
50 per cent of the calls in real time. For us, this learning curve underlined the personal aspect of a skincare regimen to consumers and during the lockdown restrictions they had more time to focus on education and trial.” Deciem’s virtual innovation was backed by its many store ambassadors who were available following the closure of bricks-and-mortar stores worldwide. “They have a wealth of skincare knowledge”, says Kilner. “Our audience was able to connect with a Deciem ambassador close to their location via LiveChat, video or message and spend as long as they required to talk through a personalised regimen. There is no pressure to purchase but the spike in sales was clearly attributable to the virtual platform launch. We saw a large increase for The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 30% in Silicone - up 161 % in the first four weeks of lockdown. A great glow product as people were spending more time on Zoom.” Beauty salons were among the first to shut down during the pandemic and we experienced enormous success with our Quick Lash range, says Iris Smit, founder and CEO of The Quick Flick and Beauty Fridge. “Consumers of lash extensions
Iris Smit FOUNDER AND CEO, THE QUICK FLICK AND BEAUTY FRIDGE
switched to false lashes as lash technicians were unable to operate. We were able to tap into a pool of customers who weren’t typical buyers in the false lash category.” We rely heavily on our retail partners as a destination for consumers to try our products in person, particularly when determining the wing size/shape from our eyeliner stamp range, says Smit. “When retailers announced that testers were being pulled from stores due to health concerns, we needed to come up with a solution that allowed customers to trial our products without putting their safety at risk. Over a 48-hour period, we developed four Instagram filters that allowed customers to virtually try on our wing sizes at home. Using Instagram as a platform for these filters instead of our website encouraged customers to engage with us as well. This acted as a fantastic marketing tool to spread brand awareness.” We have experienced a huge surge in online sales, especially in the home category - candles, room diffusers, room sprays, hand washes, body lotions and soaps says Nick Smart, director of Agence de Parfum. “With a large percentage of 24| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
Nick Smart DIRECTOR, AGENCE DE PARFUM
consumers working from home, creating an ambient environment with home scents has become more important. Consumers are also seeking little care items with their orders to add a little touch of luxury scented wax cameos, mini soaps and mini trial body lotions and washes.” PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE TURNS PHYGITAL
We experienced a significant surge in online sales in the second quarter, notably at the start of lockdown in Australia and New Zealand in April, says Karen WilkinDonachie, CEO of Ultraceuticals. “Online
Karen Wilkin-Donachie CEO, ULTRACEUTICALS
sales have remained steady since lockdown restrictions have eased in major cities.” We have always had a unique online model that is part of our omnichannel professional-centric distribution model, adds Wilkin-Donachie. “This means we share our online business with our salon and clinic partners. When consumers purchase online with us, they are asked to nominate their regular salon. Our business partners receive a share of the sale through a rebate and we expect online sales to remain strong as we support our partners through this ‘passive’ revenue scheme.” Ultraceuticals had embraced virtual consultations prior to the COVID-19 outbreak, but we promoted the service more heavily during lockdown, says WilkinDonachie. “We also hosted business and education webinars to demonstrate to our salon partners on how to conduct their own virtual consultations. We saw a large surge in demand for virtual consultations in April and May and have found that consumers who take part spend more than 2.5 times on products than regular online sale purchasers.” We have seen a big increase in the purchasing of masks for at-home treatments that address hydration, congestion and stimulation of the skin, says Wilkin-Donachie. “More recently, we have been addressing the needs of people suffering from maskne, especially with hydration and exfoliation products.” Ella Baché immediately opened our new
digital platform - Virtual Salon - from the moment we were instructed to physically close the doors on our 120-plus salons nationwide, says Pippa Hallas, CEO of Ella Baché. “The service allows therapists
Pippa Hallas CEO, ELLA BACHE
to conduct expert skin consultations with clients in their own homes. Also, the therapists ‘stepped out of their salons’ and onto social media more, becoming a key part of our new influencer program.” We now offer a virtual salon series, a fortnightly series where we feature internal guests and keynote speakers. “This strategy gives our salon network the ability to connect and support one another. Both initiatives help us to take care of our community of franchisees and empowers all Australians to feel comfortable in their own skin.” A major adjustment for Advanced Cosmeceuticals was the relaxation of our online sales policy, says Catherine Biedermann, managing director, Advanced Cosmeceuticals. “Prior to the
Catherine Biedermann MANAGING DIRECTOR, ADVANCED COSMECEUTICALS
COVID-19 pandemic, online sales were limited to a few select stockists because our brands are professional products, so our major sales platform was in-clinic. In a bid to fully support all our clients during this time, we relaxed our policy to ensure all our clinic partners were able to earn income with retail sales and ensuring their clients didn’t miss out on their skincare products. “Our marketing team also created opportunities by offering special promotions, discounts, GWP offers and other support tools to help clinics on their return to reopening. For example, Medik8 offered a retail re-stocking discount and professional product discounts.” We also changed the format of our comprehensive training programs from inclinic, face-to-face training schools to online training with our national and international educators, adds Biedermann. “We introduced live webinars that are recorded for our clinic partners to download for future use. Based on the positive feedback, we will continue to provide this alternative educational tool.”
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FEATURE
How to grow your brand and shelf presence Looking for a smart strategy to take your brand to the next level? Then you need to put Dimitri Weber on your radar.
Do you have an amazing beauty or cosmetics range? No doubt it has taken your blood, sweat and tears to have developed all the SKUs you can think of that can benefit your client. But what’s next? What other products or services can you offer that complements your vision? It’s time to think about fragrance. As a brand maker, once you have the loyalty of a client, you have already their trust that will make it easier for them to invest in your next offer. Which is where A Fragrance State of Mind can help. This boutique creation and consulting agency, founded by Dimitri Weber, develops your fragrance project from A to Z.
travels. He possesses something special that is both creative and surrealist. But if Belgian designers are favoured today by great fashion houses, this is perhaps because they have a sense of reality and resourcefulness. Head in the stars and feet on the ground... with humility and discretion too.
A LITTLE ABOUT DIMITRI: Having French and Belgian roots, Dimitri draws on the best of both worlds. His love for beauty and refinement is combine with a predilection for the 1930’s and exotic 26| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
Dimitri Weber
After his studies in arts, Dimitri consecrated his body and soul to the universe of perfumery. A passion he devotes to fragrances and odours since his childhood. Rather than locking himself in a lab, he loves to breathe in the spirit of times. Discovering consumers, he lends them an ear so as to understand their real aspirations and needs. For more than 20 years, Dimitri has been successfully active in sales, training, marketing and product development in the luxury fragrance world in Europe, Middle East, Asia and Australia. The industry often calls upon him to organise prestigious events and to consult for new product developments. He was at the helm of many important fragrance launches for brands such as Narciso Rodriguez, Elie Saab, Jean Paul Gaultier, Cartier, Tom Ford, Lancôme and Cartier. a
1. K now what type of perfumed product suits your brand Are you after a perfume or a therapeutic mist? There is a big difference in approach and strategy. Usually a perfume is a product with a seductive purpose or is made for pleasure. Depending on the nature of the brand and its story, it is in the brand’s best interest to invest in a product with a real purpose. You need to define the purpose of the scented product you are launching. For example, if you are a brand that sells skincare based on Australian botanicals and your main purpose is to highlight the natural ingredients and philosophy. You would be looking more for a soft eau de toilette or mist with benefits, rather than a perfume to seduce. A customer might not understand a skincare brand that stands for innovation and advanced benefits that has a perfume that is sexy and alluring. A perfect example is Aesop – its perfumes showcase story-telling and are completely focussed on raw ingredients that are appropriate to the ‘mood’. 2. N ot every cosmetics brand is suitable for a perfume launch A lot of brands dream of having their perfume collection, but in all honesty, only a few will succeed. Launching a perfume requires precision, a strong strategy and a detailed marketing plan in order to make it successful and profitable.
FEATURE
We chat with Dimitri who shares his top 5 Top Tips to consider when creating a fragrance:
3. N ot all perfumes are profitable in a business Depending on the level of priority, a perfume might not work. Some companies can see fragrance as an additional aspect of the business that requires too much work. They ignore the potential and don’t bother investing in the fragrance - as a result, the product can end up being discounted and it can harm the image of the brand.
• Monitoring production and follow up • Creation of graphic identity and codes in phase with the brand’s DNA • Visual identity and story writing • Graphic codes, logo’s, colours and quality of material • Tailor made creations according to the submitted budgets • Ensuring consistency between the product and the brand’s values
4. D eveloping a perfume is not an easy task You need a dedicated staff member in the team to work on a perfume project if you want to do things well.
MARKETING • Training & PR • Business solutions for retail • Merchandising recommendations and concept design proposals • Trends and luxury retail market • Development promotional tools • Branding • Product enhancement
5. P ackaging restrictions Many companies forget that perfumes are considered dangerous goods so different shipping policies and restrictions apply. A Fragrance State of Mind works with you on the complete creation, from packaging to launch. PERFUME CREATION AND PACKAGING • Bottle and box design + decoration concept • Exploration of ideas relating to the brand and product type based on marketing brief • Perfume creation • Creation of mould and selection of glass, pump, cap and accessories • Development and finalisation of the selected concept
CONSULTING • Strategy and branding recommendation • Look and feel recommendations tailored to the brand, project or target market • Product name and story creating • Image and trend recommendations • Event and product launch organisation • Business plans
A FRAGRANCE STATE OF MIND Dimitri Weber info@afragrancestateofmind.com +61 (0)455 269 667 www.afragrancestateofmind.com
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |27
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The word of the moment for beauty retailers and companies is – pivot. Direct-to-consumer (DTC) sales are an increasingly important focus even for the largest multinationals in the industry Henkel, the German maker of Schwarzkopf, for example, recently acquired a 75 per cent share in Invincible Brands Holdings. A fast-growing DTC company with three major brands – HelloBody, Banana Beauty and MermaidMe – accessing 1.5 million active customers. Clarins has taken its first steps into the subscription box business in Europe, starting with its home market of France in October. The iconic French skincare company says that it planned the move prior to the coronavirus pandemic as part of a new servicing model to attract new customers and boost loyalty. There will be three boxes up for grabs
to be delivered every two months. The cheapest is Box Curieuse at 19.90 euros (AUD$32.57) with four travel-size products of up to 50 ml. The more expensive Box Initiee, lives up to its French moniker by introducing customers to deluxe-size SKUs and will be priced at 39.90 euros (AUD$65.30). The priciest of the trio is the Box Experte at 69.90 euros (AUD$114.40), containing
INDUSTRY NEWS
Clarins launches multiple subscription boxes
three to four full-size products – face and bodycare and makeup. If consumers don’t want to select their own items, Clarins is also offering a “surprise” box option. Flexibility is a big feature of the new service. Customers can switch easily to other box options or cancel their subscription. The two-month delivery schedule is also an advantage over monthly subscription box services so that customers are not overloaded. Clarins online sales have soared by 70 per cent during the coronavirus crisis, particularly in Europe. With in-store samples and testers at a premium or nor available, Clarins subscription box initiative is a great way for new and existing customers to trial new products.
Ariana Grande’s fragrances major hit in Australia
Coty’s asset-light strategy to combat fiscal 2020 decline
The multi-platinum superstar launched her first fragrance – Ari by Ariana Grande – in 2015, followed by Sweet Like Candy a year later. The two fragrances attained number one and number two rankings in Priceline and sold 220,000 units in Australia in less than two years. Moonlight debuted in 2017, again propelled by Grande’s millions of Instagram followers. Last year saw the release of another hit juice – Thank U Next. To date, Grande’s fragrance portfolio has reached global sales of US$500 million. They have also won major awards, including Fragrance of the Year and Media Campaign of the Year. To cue in with spring, Grande’s latest fragrance – R.E.M. – debuted exclusively online at Chemist Warehouse on August 31 before it was rolled out in-store on September 21. Other major retailers will come on board on December 3 for the run-up to Christmas – the best-selling period of the year for fragrances. Grande herself considers R.E.M. to be warmer, sexier and more grown-up than her previous fragrances. The eau de parfum features a blend of pear, fig and salted caramel top notes, heart notes of lavender essence and pear blossom and a base of tonka bean, white musk and sandalwood. Named after Grande’s favourite song and redolent of one of her most loved visual worlds – 60s mod, space, dream world – R.E.M. is packaged in a lavender-coloured faceted crystal bottle with a silver logo. The ad campaign claims to be a first for the fragrance category. A dramatic animation showcasing Grande, Toulouse, Piggy Smalls and other celebrities “conquering the galaxy”. Ariana Grande fragrances are distributed by Escentials Brands in Australia.
Coty‘s global sales started to climb again from April to June, rising significantly in July and August. But the improvement didn’t make up for a major loss in revenues during full-year fiscal 2020. The world’s third largest beauty company experienced a 22 per cent drop in net revenues to US$6.738 billion. Luxury beauty and fragrance sales slumped 21 per cent to US$2.606 billion, while the revenues of the Consumer Beauty division, Coty’s largest, dropped 29.5 per cent to US$2.111 billion. Peter Harf, Coty’s executive chairman, still believes that Coty has turned a corner, saying: “In the last two months, we have seen a significant improvement in business and we expect the positive momentum to continue with a return to profit in Q1.” There’s many reasons for the optimism. Sue Nabi, the multinational’s new CEO, has officially taken over the reins. A 25-year veteran of L’Oréal, her plan of action includes adding more wellness ranges to Coty’s portfolio, increasing direct-to-consumer capabilities and re-focusing on skincare, including major initiatives with Kylie Skin and KKW Beauty, Coty’s two recent investments in the beauty empires of Kylie Jenner and Kim Kardashian West. According to Harf, Coty is also re-negotiating some of its prestige fragrance licenses. The multinational’s US$4.3 billion sale of a majority stake in its professional beauty business to KKR, the global investment titan, will also close by the end of the year. We are also going to become more agile and nimble, adds Harf. .
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |29
INDUSTRY NEWS
Beauty sales on track to soar over Christmas period
Australian consumers intensify shift to sustainability The global beauty industry has become a leader in upping its ethical and sustainability credentials. Hardly a week goes by without one of the leading multinationals announcing a new corporate initiative to reduce its carbon footprint. Such eco-efforts are on the money regarding the sentiments of Australian consumers, says a report from CouriersPlease (CP), the leading parcel delivery service. The research reveals that 87 per cent of respondents are more likely to buy products that are ethically or sustainably sourced. An equally high number – 85 per cent – would like retailers and brands to be more transparent about their products and supply chains. NSW is the leading state in the shift to conscious consumerism, adds CP, with 87 per cent wanting more information about ethical and sustainable sourcing, followed by Queensland (85%) and the ACT (68%). Importantly, according to the survey, 41 per cent of Australian shoppers are willing to pay more for ethical and sustainable products. Women are more likely to hold this view – 46 per cent – by contrast to men – 36 per cent. Young consumers aged 30 or under are more eager to buy more ethical or sustainable products – 46 per cent – as opposed to 34 per cent of the over-50s. “Our research reveals that Australians are becoming more conscious shoppers and are starting to make more considered choices by seeking and purchasing products that are sustainably and ethically produced,” says Paul Roper, chief commercial officer for CouriersPlease.
Following a tough start to the year, beauty and personal care sales are on track to soar for this year’s major online shopping festivals such as Black Friday and over the crucial Christmas period. That’s the verdict of a new global survey – Road to Recovery: 2020 Shopping Peaks Re-Imagined – from Rakuten Advertising, the international marketing specialist. The beauty industry has reported patchy results during the on-going COVID-19 crisis. Prestige beauty sales have been strongly impacted. But other categories such as dermo-cosmetic and mass skincare and haircare have weathered the storm. According to the report, 87 per cent of those surveyed were preparing to shop as usual over the festive season and during key end-of-year online shopping festivals such as Black Friday and Cyber Monday. “This lack of intent to curb spending during peak shopping periods is good news for brands and retailers, presenting an opportunity to drive revenue success in the second half of the year,” notes Rakuten Advertising. Just over 41 per cent of global consumers also said they had not changed their spend on beauty and personal care since the beginning of the coronavirus pandemic. On home turf, Australian retailers enjoyed a strong overall performance for July, reports the Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS). A robust 3.3 per cent uptick in retail turnover from June to July fueled a 12.2 per cent increase in turnover for July by contrast to the same month in 2019. Victoria was the only state to record a fall of 2 per cent in July because of the current second wave lockdown. Paul Zahra, CEO of the Australian Retailers Association, noted that the government’s stimulus and support payments were important to the ongoing strength of retail sales. While encouraged by the latest results, he added that the October to December quarter will make or break many retailers, with stores relying on a strong Christmas trading period to support their recovery.
THG Holdings raises US$2.4 billion in IPO The global online boom has carried THG Holdings along on the crest of the wave. Formerly known as The Hut Group, the company recently changed its name to THG Holdings. Europe’s largest online health and beauty retailer, the company is also the owner of the ESPA, Illamasqua and Eyeko beauty and skincare brands. In addition to the Lookfantastic Group and RY.com.au, Australia’s largest haircare and skincare online store. THG Holdings recently launched an IPO (initial public offering) on the London 30| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
Stock Exchange. The biggest float on the famous bourse since Allied Irish Bank‘s offering three years ago, says Bloomberg, the international financial news agency. With expectations that the current online bonanza will continue unabated, THG raised US$2.4 billion, sending shares surging by 32 per cent. There was plenty of interest from global tech investors. THG was seen as a “hot stock” because of its technology platform that enables it to offer solutions for big, fastmoving consumer goods companies, rather than just its online retail business, noted
Colin McLean, chief investment officer at SVM Asset Management. The IPO valued THG Holdings at US$6.99 billion. Founder and CEO, Matthew Moulding, who owns a 25.1 per cent stake, is now a newly-minted billionaire.
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INDUSTRY NEWS
L’Oréal remains resilient in first half of 2020
Like superannuation, current financial results from the major beauty players should be viewed in the context of the massive annual increases in revenues achieved over the past five years. Following record sales over the past two years, L’Oréal, the world’s largest beauty company, reported an 11.7 per cent drop in revenues for the first six months of the year to 13.07 billion euros (AUD21.51 billion). Regional markets heavily impacted by lockdowns and the closure of perfumeries, hair salons and department stores were particularly hard hit. Sales in Western Europe slumped 16.1 per cent to 3.5 billion euros (AUD5.76 billion) and revenues in Eastern Europe dropped 12.9 per cent to 789 million euros (AUD$1.29 billion). But the future looks brighter. Online, skincare and haircare sales in Western Europe have doubled since mid-May, says L’Oréal. The Asia/Pacific region suffered the smallest decline – 3.9 per cent. While North American revenues slid 15.2 per cent. Yet despite the lower results, chairman and CEO, Jean-Paul Agon, said the group had proved resilient year-to-date. The Active Cosmetics Division, including the La Roche-Posay, CeraVe, Vichy and SkinCeuticals brands, kicked the downward trend with a 9 per cent surge in sales for the period. A dive in makeup and travel retail sales impacted the Luxe Division, normally a double-digit growth engine for L’Oréal. Revenues fell 16.8 per cent in the first half. But China has returned to growth in the prestige beauty market and Germany has also performed well. The Consumer Products Division, including the L’Oréal, Maybelline New York and Garnier brands, is the company’s largest division. Revenues slumped 9.4 per cent as makeup sales suffered. But haircare and home hair colourants made up a significant part of the slack. E-commerce has delivered in spades for L’Oréal with global sales surging 64.6 per cent in the first half of the year, fueled strongly by China where sales increased 30 per cent in the second quarter. We approach this second half with lucidity, confidence and resolve, adds Agon.
32| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
Beauty Inc taps the leading power beauty brands for 2020 Beauty Inc, the business letter of WWD, a.k.a the “bible of fashion”, has ranked the world’s most powerful beauty brands for 2020 and the major multinationals remain dominant. • CeraVe – Dermocosmetics have grabbed even more of the spotlight as consumers tightened their belts worldwide. This powerhouse brand was acquired by L’Oréal in 2017 as part of a US$1.3 billion deal and has become a bullet performer in the multinational’s Active Cosmetics division. Sales of facial cleansers have been very strong year-to-date • Dove – Unilever’s magic brand saw sales rise in the mid-single digits in the first half of the year and has remained resilient during international lockdowns. • e.l.f. Cosmetics – The US budget brand delivered patchy results in recent years. But a recent campaign on TikTok which scored 4.4 billion views has led to double-digit growth, especially among Gen Zers. The brand recently announced a partnership with superstar Alicia Keys. • Estee Lauder – The poster child for the strength of iconic products, the prestige beauty brand stayed buoyant through its ongoing digital strategy and hero SKUs such as Advanced Night Repair. • Kiehl’s – L’Oréal’s fast-growing US apothecary brand reformulated key products with clean beauty principles and introduced online consultations to alleviate the impact of COVID-19 store closures in major markets. • Lancôme – The stalwart of L’Oréal’s Luxe Division quickly re-bounded in China and opened a new flagship store in Paris late last year. A leader in upgrading technology to offer consumers a truly customised approach. • L’Oréal Paris – The world’s number one beauty brand has introduced blockbuster skincare products this year such as Revitalift Derm Intensives 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum and sales have soared. • M.A.C – The Lauder-owned professional brand is the top makeup brand in the US, reports The NPD Group. With its longtime tagline – All Ages, All Races, All Sexes – M.A.C remains as relevant to diversity in beauty as it was 30 years ago. • Nest Fragrances – Eurozeo Brands, the global investment company with US$800 million in assets, bought a majority stake in Nest Fragrances in 2017. Since then the US-based brand has extended into personal care and home care while retaining its focus on its core candle business. • OGX – Acquired by Johnson & Johnson for US$3.3 billion in 2016, OGX is ranked number one in the US shampoo and conditioner category. • Olay – P&G’s “cash cow” is a longtime leader in premium mass skincare. Major hits like the Regenerist Whips franchise have secured Olay’s continued pre-eminence. • Sally Hansen – Nails have bucked the global slide in colour cosmetics sales. Coty’s heritage star in the sector experienced a 25 per cent hike in global sales in the year to June. • SheaMoisture – One of the few major beauty companies with a black female CEO – Cara Sabin – SheaMoisture is imported by leading distributor Chemcorp in Australia. The company’s hair conditioner sales have skyrocketed by 20 per cent year-to-date – double the overall conditioner category growth. • Tom Ford Beauty – Another growth engine of The Estee Lauder Companies, the designer beauty house is now the 25th largest beauty brand in the world. • Vital Proteins – Nestle Health bought a majority stake in Vital Proteins in June this year. The seven-year-old company, specialising in collagen-based ingestibles, has had a meteoric rise with sales of US$100 million through 35,000 doors in the US and Europe.
VEGAN FRIENDLY1
HIGH TOLERANCE
MADE IN FRANCE
INDUSTRY NEWS
Global vegan beauty market to hit US$3.32 billion
The coronavirus crisis has fasttracked the growth of vegan beauty and skincare. Technavio, the leading global research company, has revised its 2019 estimate for the growth of the worldwide vegan beauty market and predicts sales will reach US$3.32 billion over the next four years. According to the advisory expert, the number of people embracing vegan lifestyles in the US alone has increased 400 per cent over the past decade to reach 10 million by March this year. An upsurge experienced in other major regional markets such as Europe and the Asia/Pacific and Australia. Apart from the obvious triggers such as heightened demand for cruelty-free and environmentally sustainable products, there are other drivers fueling the market, notes Technavio.
With fewer ingredients and a smaller percentage or absence of chemicals, vegan cosmetics and skincare often benefit sensitive skin and other problems such as acne, rashes and allergic reactions. After sun care is also on a roll. As summer approaches, popular skincare brands such as Avéne and Natio have launched their new sun care ranges. But one of the fastest-growing sectors is after sun care. According to Allied Market Research, the global after sun care market is expected to grow to US$2.9 billion over the next five years. Mass brands have a 60 per cent global market share, says the researcher. But premium products are gaining traction because of the rise in the incidence of skin cancer and the penetration of natural and organic products. The US has the largest regional market share with 33 per cent of worldwide sales.
But the Asia/Pacific is experiencing the fastest growth. Gel-form products account for 25 per cent of the global after sun care market, says Allied Market Research, because consumers prefer them to oils. Key players in the category include Beiersdorf (Nivea), Unilever, Coty, Johnson & Johnson, L’Oréal, Clarins, Bioderma and the Estee Lauder Companies.
E-commerce buoys full year results for Estée Lauder
Blue light exposure ‘similar to midday sun’, study says The COVID-19 lockdowns worldwide have significantly increased the amount of time people spend looking at screens such as computers, laptops, smartphones and TVs. A new study from Unilever reveals that blue light emitted from electronic devices can damage the skin as much or more than direct sun exposure. The connection is obvious. Blue light is HEV (high energy visible light), a description that also covers UV rays. Most HEV light comes from the sun, but modern life has upped the dangers of exposure through our reliance on screens for work and leisure. According to the multinational’s researchers, 60 per cent of consumers are spending more than six hours a day in front of a digital device. The cumulative effect of five working days using a smartphone, laptop or desktop computer has the same skin-damaging effect of 25 minutes exposure to the midday sun without sunscreen protection. Pigmentation caused by blue light can be immediate and/or longlasting. The rays also increase the body’s level of stress hormones, disturb sleep patterns and over-stimulate nerves. People who spend more than 30 hours a week in front of screens can also suffer from inflammation of the skin cells by up to 40 per cent – a major trigger of premature ageing. 34| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) have enjoyed spectacular growth over the past decade. The COVID-19 crisis has strongly affected the multinational’s fortunes, but year-on-year net sales dipped in single digits – 4 per cent – to US$14.29 billion for its 2020 fiscal year. The biggest drop came in the fourth quarter. Net sales for Q4 fell 32 per cent to US$2.43 billion by contrast to US$3.5 billion for the same period in 2019. Skincare was a major strength in the first half of the year, with sales surging 26 per cent. Makeup, fragrance and hair care saw declines of between 11 per cent and 17 per cent in the first six months of 2020. Triple digit growth in online sales in every geographic region significantly buoyed ELC during the coronavirus pandemic. A pivot which has prompted the multinational to announce a reduction of 1500 to 2000 jobs, mainly from point-of-sale. The company will also shutter 10 to 15 per cent of its freestanding stores and department store counters across its major brands in coming months. Apart from accelerated e-commerce sales, other bright spots for the 2020 fiscal year included double digit growth in travel retail, strong demand for high loyalty franchises such as Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair and Perfectionist and double digit growth for La Mer, notably in China.
Delightful FROM
AT UNDER $20, THESE BURT’S BEES LIP-LOVER GIFT SETS ARE PERFECT FOR A SECRET SANTA OR STOCKING FILLER GIFT IDEA. NATURE KNOWS BEST
THE JOY OF GIFTING
LIP FAVOURITES GIFT SET
Lip skin is much thinner than facial skin and without hydration, moisturising and barrier support, lips can become dry, then peel and crack. All Burt’s Bees lip balms and tints are consciously crafted with nutrient-rich, 100% natural ingredients that nourish and moisturise, while creating a natural breathable barrier to protect vital hydration. As well as our signature, responsibly sourced beeswax to shield and condition dry lips, we use coconut oil and shea butter to soften and hydrate, plus antioxidant-rich vitamin E and natural fruit extracts. Formulated without parabens, phthalates, SLS or petrolatum, we have a true love and appreciation for the environment and animals – all our products are Leaping Bunny Certified.
The striking floral pattern on this year’s Burt’s Bees Christmas gift sets was designed in Melbourne and inspired by the pure beauty of the Australian environment.
– Beeswax Lip Balm – Watermelon Lip Balm – Cucumber & Mint Lip Balm Give nature’s best to everyone on your list with this trio of much-loved flavours. Hydrate lips all season long with our original classic, or enjoy a slice-of-summer twist with our refreshing watermelon or cool cucumber and mint balms.
The unique, hand-drawn print captures a modern and joyful approach to Christmas, showcasing our eponymous bees buzzing in harmony with berries, peonies and camellias. Eye-catching and instantly giftable (no need to wrap!), these sets will spread good cheer throughout the holiday season.
Our Lip Balm tubes are recyclable through Terracycle. With your help, we can close the loop to ensure packaging doesn’t end up in landfill or oceans.
RRP: $14.99
KISSABLE LIPS GIFT SET – Beeswax Lip Balm – Rose Tinted Lip Balm – Blush Lip Shine Instantly giftable, this delightful Christmas bon bon provides a lip library to complete any festive look. Go natural, add a hint of colour or dazzle with shine! The perfect stocking stuffer or table decoration. RRP: $19.99
To find out more or to enquire about becoming a Burt’s Bees stockist, contact your local brand representative or visit: burtsbees.com.au #burtsbeesaus @burtsbeesaus
INDUSTRY NEWS
Alicia Keys to launch vegan beauty line with e.l.f Cosmetics
Alicia Keys, the multi-Grammy Award winner, announced she had stopped wearing makeup in 2016. Not only in her personal life, but also for video shoots and red carpet appearances. Earlier this year, she moved away from her outright ban on colour cosmetics and appeared in the February issue of Allure magazine, the prestigious US beauty bible, in a series of photo shoots – with and without makeup. Keys has announced she will team with popular US budget beauty brand, e.l.f Cosmetics, to launch her own, vegan beauty range in 2021. Beauty brands have become one of the major ways singers such as Rihanna, Selena Gomez and Lady Gaga have diversified as music piracy and illegal downloading have affected their earning power. Keys says her point-of-difference in collaborating with e.l.f is to create a brand that blends beauty and lifestyle to focus on well-being and inclusivity. Little has been revealed, except that dermatologists will help to formulate the products for a clean beauty emphasis. The move is timely. Makeup sales have been battered during the Covid-19 pandemic. But Allied Market Research, the global market researcher, has released a new report that predicts the worldwide colour cosmetics market will reach US$9.55 billion by 2023 – up from US$5.87 billion in 2016. In Australia, e.l.f Cosmetics are available at Kmart, Target, Big W, Chemist Discount Centre, Advantage Pharmacy and Adore Beauty, in addition to a dedicated local website.
Myer inks deals with Amazon and Australia Post The Australian Bureau of Statistics Retail Figures for July reported that department store sales rose 4 per cent for the month. Myer is hoping to keep up the momentum with two recent agreements to boost online sales and store footfall. In late August, the company signed a three year 3PL (third party logistics) deal with Australia Post to accelerate delivery of online orders. The partnership will bolster Myer’s existing online services and provide warehousing for close to 100,000 Myer products at Tullamarine, near Melbourne’s major airport. In September, Myer teamed with Amazon Australia to implement click-and-collect hubs in 21 locations nationwide. Amazon Australia debuted its parcel collection network last November, working with the Commonwealth Bank, the Victorian Authorised Newsagents Association and Stockland shopping centres. The inaugural Myer/ Amazon hubs will be located in stores in major shopping centres for easy parking and/or transport connections and offer consumers the opportunity to dovetail pickups with supermarket and other retail store visits, in addition to being convenient for the time-poor. The locations are: Sydney City, Bondi Junction, Chatswood, Warringah, Parramatta, Castle Hill, Macquarie and Roselands in Sydney; Melbourne City, Highpoint, Doncaster, Chadstone, Southland and Geelong in Victoria; Brisbane, Chermside, Carindale, Pacific Fair and Maroochydore in Queensland; and Myer stores in Adelaide and Perth. Myer has plans to roll out additional Amazon in-store hubs in the lead-up to the Christmas shopping rush, notably in regional areas. 36| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
Mecca undergoes HR makeover Beauty destination Mecca is in the final stage of a phased human resources makeover that will enable the retailer to quickly manage team member changes and automate processes. The implementation of Workday Human Capital Management (HCM) software is designed to eliminate the risk involved in manual paper-based processes and significantly reduces HR administration time. In 2017, Mecca made the decision to launch a three to five-year program to digitalise its human capital management technology to simplify everyday requirements for team members to selfserve. This included the development of a digital onboarding experience with no paper-based forms. The HCM makeover began with the implementation of Workday HCM Core, Recruitment, Onboarding, Absence and Compensation. This was followed by the addition of Workday Talent, Performance, Advanced Compensation and Succession in 2018. In early 2020, the extra dimension of Workday solution’s capability came to light with the outbreak of COVID-19 as it enabled Mecca to quickly manage team member changes and automate processes. The next stage in Mecca’s HCM makeover will involve using Workday Learning for store support team members across its network, and the final stage, to be completed in 2021, will see the implementation of advanced Insights and Workforce Planning. Mecca head of talent acquisition and people analytics, Louis Tsomaropoulos, described the digitalisation of the HR management system as “game changing” for Mecca. “Through Workday, we have been able to automate work, which ultimately enables us to provide better support to our team and improve the employee experience. During COVID-19, Workday enabled us to move quickly to support the needs of our business. We were able to make staffing changes, such as deploying more than 120 storebased team members to our warehouse to fulfil an increase in online orders during store closures.”
GIVE THE Gift of self-care WITH
GIFTING COMES NATURALLY AT BURT’S BEES THIS HOLIDAY SEASON. OUR CHRISTMAS GIFT SETS COMBINE OUR AWARD WINNING PRODUCTS AND OUR COMMITMENT TO NATURE TO HELP SPREAD JOY FAR AND WIDE. WITH THEIR HAND-DRAWN DESIGNS, THESE SPECIALLY CURATED SETS ARE INSTANTLY GIFTABLE – NO WRAPPING NEEDED! For more than 30 years, Burt’s Bees has taken a holistic approach to natural beauty – we value the planet and its ecosystem as much as we value our customers. Our seasonal gift ideas reflect the very best of this spirit.
TREAT YOURSELF SET
NATURALLY SOFT HANDS
– Beeswax Lip Balm – Rose Tinted Lip Balm – Sensitive Daily Moisturizing Cream 9.92g – Sensitive Facial Wipes 10pk Treat yourself or a friend to these Burt’s Bees must-haves, ideal for a weekend away or to bring luxury to the everyday. Inspired by the true beauty of the Australian environment, these floral-print make-up bags are filled with four Burt’s Bees favourites to celebrate the holiday season. Sensitive Facial Towelettes and Sensitive Daily Moisturising Cream are two of our best-selling sensitive skincare products. This fragrance-free and hypo-allergenic duo are gentle enough for daily use and feature calming aloe and cotton and rice extracts to naturally hydrate, smooth and soften a sensitive complexion. To complement these skin saviours, you’ll also find two of our signature, 100% natural and responsibly sourced beeswax lip balms in original and rose tint to nourish lips all season long.
– Beeswax Lip Balm – Ultimate Care Hand Cream 90g – Lemon Butter Cuticle Cream 8.5g The perfect gift for someone you love or an indulgent treat just for you, this naturally moisturising trio is filled with time-tested originals for ultimate soft hands. Pamper yourself with our 100% natural Lemon Butter Cuticle Cream, packed with sweet almond oil and cocoa seed butter to moisturise and soften cuticles, and vitamin E and sunflower oil to nourish dry, brittle nails – essential for that freshly-manicured feeling! Or nourish hands with our hypoallergenic and fragrance-free Ultimate Care Hand Cream, formulated with watermelon and fruit acid complex to gently exfoliate dry skin, and baobab oil, pumpkin seed oil and green tea extract to intensely moisturise and comfort skin. Our bestselling Beeswax Lip Balm, made with 100% natural origin and responsibly sourced beeswax, provides the final indulgence in this gift set. The eye-catching pack is hand-crafted in Melbourne with a floral and bee print to reflect elements of the Australian environment.
RRP: $24.99
RRP: $24.99
To find out more or to enquire about becoming a Burt’s Bees stockist, contact your local brand representative or visit: burtsbees.com.au #burtsbeesaus @burtsbeesaus
INDUSTRY NEWS
Arden’s Ceramide Story Continues... and it’s precisely about Plumping A little history goes a long way. In today’s world of fads and easycome-easy-go, Elizabeth Arden’s established Ceramide skincare range continues to grow with the additions of hero ingredients, as well as evolving new and relevant twists on Ceramide. Twist being an operative word, with the latest launch being used for its well-known double meaning: twist off the seal of the daily-dose capsule to release precisely the right amount of potent fresh product; AND using a new-style (twist) on the classic hydration/plumping ingredient, hyaluronic acid.
Hail Elizabeth Arden’s latest anti-ageing skincare innovation: Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules Hydra-Plumping Serum. Not surprised by the name? It’s an ingredient we know and love, BECAUSE IT WORKS to plump up the skin, we can pronounce it and it’s tried & trusted in skincare use for 20+ years with no nasty side effects. But this is not just any old hyaluronic acid (HA) of course. Developed into a miniscule molecule – 500x* smaller than traditional HA - allows it to travel 4x deeper** into the skin. Including varying sizes of HA in the formula means this super plumping performer is delivered into the skin’s surface layer for multi-level absorption. Combine this with the DoubleLock Hydration System™ - which sees Hyaluronic Acid drawing in moisture and barrier-strengthening Ceramides ‘locking’ it in so skin stays plump and hydrated longer - and you’ve got the daily dose to restore these naturally occurring elements skin needs, but loses with age. In a consumer study of 55 women, after using the product for four weeks 98% of them reported seeing plumper skin, more youthful bounce and said their skin felt smoother. Radiance, a firmer feel and redefined contours were reported by 96%, 95% and 91% respectively. *Based on the smallest molecular weight of EA’s HA vs. traditional HA ** Extrapolated calculations based on published article TRAINING IN TIMES OF “CHALLENGE”
Rebecca Hollowood, Field Sales and Education Manager Elizabeth Arden, was unable to connect ‘in-real-life’ with the 38| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
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Beauty Consultant team for the launch of the NEW Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules, but still wanted to do something really special for the launch to ensure everyone was confident in the key claims, and benefits and were ready to start selling. Rebecca tells esprit: “A cross functional education video was recorded with Sales, Marketing, our General Manager and myself all contributing so our counter staff understood the importance of the launch for the 2nd half of this year. In addition to the video, a beautiful Elizabeth Arden discovery box arrived at each counter the week before the launch. This included the education materials, details of the marketing support, an exciting sales incentive for the team, but most importantly the product itself. By having their own 60 piece product it gave our Beauty Consultants the opportunity to experience the new Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules for themselves. When our Beauty Consultants get to touch and feel, seeing the results helps with storytelling and engaging with their customers. To
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reinforce the focus on hydration, they also received an Elizabeth Arden branded and reusable water bottle. To finish off the education focus we recapped on our current Ceramide Capsule line-up and how the new Hyaluronic Acid fits into this targeted range, along with our key capsule call outs around encapsulated skincare, PURE, POTENT and PRECISE, no added fragrance or water, and biodegradable. CERAMIDE RANGE IN CONTEXT
The Ceramide Capsules range is ingredient led and has been since launch in 1990 – 30 years ago. The global leaders in monodose technology, the brand’s single-dose serum capsule innovation has made skincare efficient and effective. The current line-up comprises nourishing Advanced Ceramide, line-erasing Retinol, brightening Vitamin C and now plumping Hyaluronic Acid. See how simple it is? Ingredient = Solution, in a biodegradable measured-dose capsule. 01. Luba Petrichkovych - Myer Pacific Fair 02. Olivia Wu & Samantha Honeysett – Myer Sydney City
Since 1990, Look Good Feel Better has helped more than 150,000 women, men and teens across Australia face their cancer diagnosis with confidence. We’ve done this with the help of 15,000 litres of moisturiser, 298,000 lipsticks and 9,000 kilograms of foundation. But more importantly, we’ve done this with care, compassion, and understanding. We proudly offer Face-to-Face workshops, Virtual Workshops and Home-Delivered Confidence Kits to educate and empower those undergoing cancer treatment.
To participate in the program or to find out more, visit lgfb.org.au.
You may have seen recent stories in the media, on Instagram or Reddit, describing significant hair loss in people recovering from COVID-19. Believe it or not, this isn’t directly due to the virus, but because of the body’s response to the severe illness it causes. Here Biochemist and Systems Biologist Dominic Burg, Chief Scientist at évolis® simplifies the science and shares how you can help your customers.
When fighting infection or disease, the body uses a lot of energy. The incredible adaptivity of our physiology means that resources can be taken from non-vital functions such as nail and hair growth and instead used to help the body fight the disease and recover.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Hairy times call for follicle focus
But you don’t have to suffer from COVID-19 to experience hair loss; stress is enough to put your hair follicles into reverse. And the last six-nine months have been very stressful, to say the least. Stress hormones are normally useful as they get us ready to fight or flight in hairy situations. Hormones are released, blood glucose is mobilised and ready to feed the muscles and to repair the immune system. Unfortunately, it is often at the expense of hair and nail growth. The scientific term for this type of hair loss is telogen effluvium. In a nutshell, this means that large numbers of hair follicles have entered into the rest phase of the hair cycle all at once. After a period of a month or two these will all begin to fall out. The silver lining to all this is that hair loss due to illness or stress is usually fully reversible even if it takes time. You can help the recovery process by eating plenty of leafy greens, seafood and lean meat providing iron, zinc and B vitamins for healthy hair growth. Additionally, look for treatments that accelerate recovery, like the evolis® Promote Activator. It has neat technology that helps hair follicles enter their growth phase faster and increases their growth rate by 20%. For more information see: www.evolisproducts.com.au ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |41
INDUSTRY NEWS
The future of the sunscreen industry
Consumers aren’t simply buying more products these days. Many are also far savvier about what they’re buying. No more so than in the skincare and antiageing sector. Women, who are the key consumers of these ranges, no longer seek out products that offer only high UV protection; instead they search out products that deliver high sun protection and added benefits thanks to advanced technology and ingredients. So far, countrywide COVID-19 lockdown restrictions have largely been lifted in APAC and other global regions. However, the threat of localised outbreaks, wariness about a second virus wave, and continued social distancing regulations are continuing to disrupt the travel industry and lead to more time spent indoors. This, in turn, has had a negative knock-on effect on the sun-care market. That said, the challenge to the sun-care segment is driving innovation to minimise any drop in sales. COVID-19 CAN SPUR CREATIVE INNOVATION
Although a disrupted holiday/travel market will challenge the sunscreen and after-sun segments, skincare companies and manufacturers can use creative innovation to minimise a sales decrease. For example, brands can reposition selftanner as a COVID-safe way to achieve a suntan, expand blue-light protection formulas, and develop hygienic touch-free formats. MAKE SKINCARE PRODUCTS MORE INCLUSIVE
If there’s anything the past few months have taught us it’s that the world needs to be more inclusive. Skincare companies that acknowledge this and expand their offering to include products that cater specifically to different skin colours and 42| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
Mintel beauty and personal care analyst Rosalia Di Gesu shares her thoughts on the innovation opportunities for sun-care products. most innovative recent launches, chosen by the Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD). 1. SPACE-PROOF BACTERIA SUGGESTS SUPERIOR EFFECTIVENESS
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hair types – rather than offering products in solely dry, oily or sensitive formulations, for example – will see their customer base expand.
Dr. Jart+ Solarbiome Ampoule SPF 50+ PA++++ uses microbes – Bacillus subtilis and Deinococcus radiodurans – that were subjected to the harsh conditions of space (ultraviolet rays, radiation and temperatures above 100ºC), thanks to NASA. They were then incorporated into this product, which offers excellent sun protection and anti-ageing benefits, and helps skin recover from UV damage. Launched in April this year, it reportedly sold out in a day. 2. STANDALONE SCALP SUNSCREEN
STAND OUT IN A BUSY ECOFRIENDLY SUNSCREEN SPACE
It’s becoming increasingly common for consumers to seek out sunscreens that are safe, both for themselves and the environment. Brands, including those creating mineral products, can stand out by tapping into ‘clean beauty’ trends, staying abreast of new innovation, building better stories around ingredients, and by using transparent safety-related accreditation. For example, BASF’s EcoSun Pass is a methodology that assesses the environmental impact of sunscreen formulations. It supports the transparent assessment of UV filters based on internationally recognised criteria and comprises eight different parameters, from biodegradation and aquatic toxicity to endocrine disruption potential. It not only considers environmental factors for individual UV filters, but also provides a comprehensive environmental evaluation of filter systems. Here is just a selection of some of the
Banana Boat Hair & Scalp Defense Spray SPF 30 aligns with a scalp-care trend taking place in haircare, and protects both hair and scalp from UV rays. Its lightweight texture stops hair from becoming greasy. 3. ADVANCED UV PROTECTIVE FILM
Shiseido’s Perfect UV Protector SPF 50+ uses a UV protection film, SynchroShield, combined with WetForce and HeatForce technology that makes the protective veil stronger upon contact with heat, water or perspiration. WHAT WE THINK
Opportunity lies in meeting consumers’ trade-up demands for safer products that boast natural ingredients and offer ease of removal. Manufacturers who can offer products with comprehensive powerful protection against in addition to occasionsuitable SPF/PA values will see benefits to their businesses, as will those who can develop segmented product lines to fit usage for any occasion, place or time.
SCENTS OF CHRISTMAS
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DETOX AND REFRESH Klorane hosted an exclusive webinar to celebrate the launch of its new Detox Dry Shampoo with Aquatic Mint. Hosted by TV presenter and journalist Carissa Walford, the webinar included Klorane training manager Janis McNicholas and special guest and long-term brand ambassador Rebecca Judd, who dialled in from Melbourne while in lockdown. Rebecca said the lockdown had given her even more time to focus on her fitness and that the new dry shampoo kept her hair looking fresh for days without washing, despite working up a sweat. Janis spoke in depth about how the new Detox Dry Shampoo with Aquatic Mint instantly refreshed and clarified the hair and scalp without water in two minutes, while delivering an immediate cooling sensation and invisible finish for all hair types. She said the clarifying dry shampoo detoxified and protected the hair and scalp from pollutants and environmental residue, leaving a minty-fresh scent on hair that was left volumised, softer and shinier. The natural, aquatic mint extract used in the Klorane Scalp Detox range - including the Scalp Detox Shampoo and Scalp Protective Conditioner – is organically farmed and harvested in the southwest of France using green chemistry, she explained.
03. 01. Long-term Klorane brand ambassador Rebecca Judd.
02. Klorane Detox Dry Shampoo with Aquatic Mint.
03. The Klorane media box that was delivered ahead of the Zoom meeting.
While watching the webinar, guests were invited make a refreshing and detoxing Seed Lip and tonic to enjoy throughout the session, which was delivered prior to the Zoom with the new product. Since 1965, Klorane has prioritised organic farming, while cultivating plants all over the world in compliance with a certified eco-responsible approach to ensure the sustainable preservation of botanical heritage and biodiversity. Formulated with natural plant extracts such as peony, mango, oat and quinine, Klorane’s eco-friendly hair and baby care products are made in France with clean formulas that are also free from animal-origin ingredients. In Australia, the Klorane Botanical Foundation supports plant conservation through a partnership with the Royal Botanic Garden Sydney, working closely with them on several initiatives including supporting the garden’s rainforest conservation program. The Detox Dry Shampoo with Aquatic Mint is on counter now at select chemists nationwide, 150ml, RRP $15.95. www.klorane.com/au-en
IN & ONLINE
In & Online
With Out and About on hold due to COVID-19 restrictions, Michelle Ruzzene covers the best virtual brand experiences from the comfort of her home.
Agence de Parfum unveiled their Christmas offerings to journalists, bloggers and esteemed fragrance lovers via Zoom. Before the webinar, press packages were sent out by public relations agency Élysée Collective containing Amouage fragrance samples, a mini Claus Porto soap, a Compagnie de Provence soap sample and a look book. Agence de Parfum national education manager Michael Marzano hosted the informative event. Michael explained in depth the Christmas gifts and limited edition offerings from candlemaker Cire Trudon, fine fragrance and soap company Claus Porto, British fragrance house Penhaligon’s, luxury perfume house Amouage, Santa Maria Novella which makes liqueurs and ambient novelties, French bath and body tradition brand Compagnie de Provence and more. www.agencedeparfum.com.au 01. Agence de Parfum national education manager Michael Marzano
02. Limited Edition Penhaligon’s Brilliantly British 03. Amouage Secret Garden Sampler. 04. Media were sent a mini Claus Porto Leao Verde Wild Moss Soap.
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IN & ONLINE
MAKEUP MASTERCLASS 01.
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TVSN SEASONAL LAUNCH The TVSN Spring / Summer 2020 seasonal launch involved three sessions throughout the day via Zoom, including Beauty and Skincare with Dr Paul Nassif. TVSN general manager Judy Deuchar and PR and events executive Clair Starr gave an introduction before television host Jamie Malcolm spoke about some of the beauty highlights on the home shopping network. These included: • Retreatment Botanics, Gaia Retreat & Spa’s skincare range created by Olivia Newton John • Eve Pearl, the signature range of five -time Emmy Award winning and celebrity makeup artist • Lisa Hoffman, wife of Dustin Hoffman and founder Lisa Hoffman Beauty, that creates wearable, fine fragranced jewellery • Lancer Skincare, created by Dr. Harold Lancer, who is based in Beverly Hills, California, and counts Victoria Beckham as a loyal client • Nassif MD Skincare, created by Dr Paul Nassif, who stars in the reality television series Botched. Dr Nassif joined the Zoom from his home in in Beverly Hills, California, where he spoke about his skincare range, in particular his Quickfix Wrinkle Reducing Serum, which sold out immediately when showcased on TVSN because of its instant tightening properties. Dr Nassif shared his top three summer skincare tips: hydration, exfoliation, and antioxidants. www.itvsn.com.au
01. Dr Paul Nassif. 02. TVSN general manager Judy Deuchar.
03. Quickfix Wrinkle Reducing 03.
Serum, created by Dr Paul Nassif.
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Celebrity makeup artist and esprit contributor Michael Brown shared his top secrets, how-to’s, tips and tricks via a Zoom masterclass to celebrate the Revlon Colorstay Full Cover Foundation launch. Before the virtual event, participants were sent a kit of Revlon products and a special mirror to use during the class and were sent a foundation swatch backdrop to use on Zoom. Laura Middleton, senior brand manager at Revlon, kicked off the event with information about the new range, before Michael’s masterclass began. Michael demonstrated two looks for the class – a day look and a night look – using the full coverage matte finish foundation and other cult Revlon products. He said the foundation was a “comfortable wear foundation” that moved with the skin, “without flaking or caking”.
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01. Laura Middleton, senior brand manager at Revlon.
02. The new Revlon Colorstay Full Cover Foundation.
03. Celebrity makeup artist and esprit contributor Michael Brown.
The foundation lasts up to 24 hours and blends seamlessly with a flat brush or beauty sponge for a smooth, even complexion, he said. There are 11 shades in the new range that start at light (ivory) and go through to deep (caramel). www.revlonanz.com
LA ROCHE-POSAY’S FREE WEBINAR ON MENTAL WELLBEING The cult French pharmacy skincare brand La Roche Posay hosted a free, interactive, live-streamed webinar discussion for the tireless healthcare workers about the importance of maintaining mental health during this challenging time. Hosted by media personality Deborah Hutton, the solidarity project was held as an expression of gratitude, by parent company L’Oréal, to all of the valued frontline 01. healthcare workers, for their courage and dedication to ensuring ongoing health and safety amongst the wider community. The informative presentation featured Dr Tim Sharp (aka Dr Happy), founder of The Happiness Institute, who spoke about building resilience to maintain happiness throughout difficult times. Beyond Blue volunteer speaker and cardiologist, Dr Geoff 02. Toogood, also spoke on mental wellbeing and the support services available during the pandemic and beyond. 01. The webinar in action. The informative discussion attracted a diverse range of 02. Media personality Deborah Hutton and Dr Tim Sharp (aka healthcare professionals, including frontline emergency Dr Happy). workers, nurses, dermatologists, pharmacists, and aged care personnel. Yann Kerherve, general manager, L’Oréal Australia Active Cosmetics Division, said the dedicated frontline professionals were working tirelessly, and often in high-risk scenarios, to keep all Australians safe during this challenging period. Health care professionals who weren’t able to join the discussion can view the webinar at www.kollectve.studio/larocheposay
With a 45-minute one-on-one virtual presentation hosted by Sisley’s Irene Robinson, general manager AUS/NZ and April Roberts, sales coach and beauty therapist, media were shown how the new Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-Age La Cure worked. It’s recommended the four-week exceptional anti-ageing treatment is used twice a year. The phenomenal clinical trial results showed that after four weeks’ of use 100% of trial subjects said the anti-ageing benefits had significantly improved their skin, saying their skin appeared visibly younger, April explained. As a science-based company, Sisley’s formulations are grounded in research and proven results. It was a 2016 Nobel Prize winning discovery in the realm of cell mechanisms that led to the birth of a product that’s capable of reactivating the cells’ vital energy at its source to combat the consequences of time better than ever before, and to fully restore the skin’s vitality. It’s not a one-night wonder; there are four phials for each week of the 28-day skin renewal cycle. The concentrated formula is combination of powerful and targeted plant extracts proven to act at the source (the cells) and provide a complementary action on three key mechanisms of the energy cycle: protection of the mitochondria, reconnection of the mitochondrial network and elimination of the damaged mitochondria.
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Sisley’s beauty advisors are 02. being educated to 01. Sisleÿa La Cure introduce customers Campaign. to the experience 02. Sisley virtual 03. of using La Cure presentation hosted by Irene Robinson, general Sisleÿa L’Intégral manager AUS/NZ. Anti-Age as more 03. April Roberts, sales coach and beauty therapist. of a ceremony than slapping on their serum. Used as the first product on the skin after cleansing, eight pumps of the product are applied to the palm, spread across both hands and then held in front of the nose, to take a deep breath and enjoy the aromatic benefit. A few moments of following the prescribed gestures leaves the user and their skin in a state of relaxation and well-being. Available at Sisley in David Jones, $1,450. www.sisley.com.au
BRIGHT EYES
BOTANICAL BENEFITS To celebrate the launch of Aveda’s newest range, media and influencers were invited to a Zoom meeting over a Garden of Vegan breakfast that complemented the ingredients and layering system in the new products. As participants feasted on a three-layered, superfood breakfast pudding, Aveda educator, colourist and stylist Mathew Wickham spoke about the benefits of the new Botanical Repair line-up. He said the revolutionary plantpowered, bond-building range, which took six years to create and perfect, was formulated to strengthen, repair and protect hair from the inside out. Australian ambassador Elyse Knowles also spoke about the benefits of the products, and said it nourished her hair that was damaged from bleach, frequent styling, and her outdoors lifestyle, including swimming and exercising. Botanical Repair addresses three layers of damage repair – the cortex, cuticle, and F-layer – to keep hair in peak condition. The signature Botanical Repair aroma is a layered bouquet of tropical ylang ylang, sweet rose and herbal marjoram.
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SHEER SISLEŸA LUXURY
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Formulated for all hair types and textures, the products are sulfate cleanser-free, vegan, cruelty-free and naturally derived. The Botanical Repair range includes a strengthening shampoo, strengthening conditioner, intensive strengthening masque in light or rich and strengthening leave-in treatment. Aveda has been a cruelty-free brand since it was founded in 1978. The brand’s commitment to caring for animals and wildlife reaches far and wide. www.aveda.com.au
Kate Waterhouse hosted the Clarins Total Eye Lift webinar with special guests Clarins head of training, Charlotte Turner, and responsible innovation director of Clarins, Marie-Hélène Lair. Charlotte called the new eye cream the “cream of the crop” when it came to skincare around the eye area. “This product is a very big opportunity for us to talk to a wider scope of woman,” she said. “It’s a product that addresses all of the concerns that could be had in the eye area.” Charlotte said the “comfortable, lightweight balm” was a “very well formulated product” that “addresses eye concerns from temple to temple”. Marie-Hélène dialled into the webinar from Paris. She said because the delicate skin around the eye was four times thinner than the skin on the face, the eyes were especially prone to dropping and fine lines before explaining in depth the eye balm’s ingredients and their benefits. www.clarins.com.au
01. The new Aveda Botanical Repair range. 02. Aveda Australian ambassador Elyse Knowles. 03. Aveda educator, colourist and stylist Mathew Wickham. (All images Instagram)
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5 minutes with...
Shane Warne by Nicci Herrera.
We haven’t heard much about Shane Warne in the press lately, whether it be good or bad. The former cricketer, known as one of the greatest bowlers in history, doesn’t easily put his name to many products, apart from undergoing hair loss treatment with Advanced Hair Studio since 2006. Shane is a long-standing ambassador of Advanced Hair… Yeah Yeah! I couldn’t help but have a big grin on my face when I was offered an interview with Shane, as I really like him – his cheeky, boundary-pushing personality doesn’t appeal to all, but it certainly does to me. However, as I started to think of what to ask him, I suddenly thought ‘Oh no’. Besides his cricket career and what I read about him in the tabloids, I do not know much about him at all. So, let’s get to know the ‘real’ Shane Warne – the 2020 version. 46| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
my sporting life. AND…we bought a dog – he’s called Mason.
I have always been interested in the fragrance world and have tried many different fragrances. I think it’s very important to smell nice and have impeccable manners, that way people will never forget you.
WHAT WOULD YOU HAVE BEEN DOING IF COVID-19 HADN’T HAPPENED?
HOW DO YOU CAPTURE THE ESSENCE OF SHANE IN A BOTTLE, INCLUDING SCENT, PACKAGING ETC?
It was important to come up with the right scent. I thoroughly enjoyed this process from start to finish. We tried 12 different samples plus my favourites. We ended up with something that I think everyone will love and I am extremely proud of the final product. HOW ‘HANDS-ON’ WERE YOU WITH THE FORMULATION AND PRODUCTION OF THE FRAGRANCE?
Extremely hands on. When Chemist Warehouse approached me after many approaches over the years, I decided to join forces with Mario and the guys at CW as they are a great team to work with. I have been involved from sampling the different scents, helping out with the packaging, the design of the bottle and have added some extra little touches too. I think everyone will be blown away when they see this campaign and especially when they smell the fragrance. WHAT WAS THE MOST ENJOYABLE PART OF THE PROCESS IN MAKING THIS FRAGRANCE?
The end product, seeing the packaging and smelling the fragrance. I was completely blown away about how amazing it is. Everyone at Chemist Warehouse has been awesome to work with and the way they put everything together for this campaign – I’m already looking forward to the next one. ALL PROFITS FROM THE LAUNCH OF SW23 BY SHANE WARNE WILL GO TO THE MY ROOM CHILDREN’S CANCER CHARITY – HOW DID THIS COME ABOUT?
This was a decision we made jointly to give 100% of the profits back to MyRoom. I’ve been a big supporter of children’s charities for a long time. I’m very proud of the Shane Warne Foundation and the substantial amount of funds we donated to seriously ill and underprivileged children and the significant difference we made to families over the years. We helped so many
Everyone at Chemist Warehouse has been awesome to work with and the way they put everything together for this campaign – I’m already looking forward to the next one.
5 MINUTES WITH
WHAT ATTRACTED SHANE WARNE TO THE FRAGRANCE WORLD?
I would have been in LA, then the UK working for Sky commentating on the cricket, I was head coach of the London Spirit in the new 100-Ball competition and I would have also been in India as Team Mentor of the Rajasthan Royals. On top of that I would have been in Scotland for my favourite week of the year, the Dunhill Links, which has unfortunately been cancelled. WHAT IS THE BEST ADVICE YOU HAVE EVER BEEN GIVEN?
Manners are free and never give up. DID YOU TAKE THAT ADVICE? EXPLAIN WHY/WHY NOT?
Yes I have, It’s something that I live life by and always have and have instilled into my children. WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PASTIME OTHER THAN CRICKET?
I love playing poker, golf and watching AFL. children that fell between the cracks and there wasn’t a specific charity that they could go to, and we saved lives too – which makes all of us at the foundation extremely proud. I understand how tough it is to raise funds, and especially in an extremely tough time for all charities this is the least we can do to show our support of Margaret Zita and her team for what they do at MyRoom. I have been a big supporter of this charity in the past and I am extremely happy to be able to help with alongside Chemist Warehouse. HOW HAVE YOU COPED WITH COVID-19, BOTH PERSONALLY AND BUSINESS-WISE?
It’s been very tough on everyone around the world, and I, like everybody else, have felt the impact of COVID-19. But I found the positive in this situation. It has been wonderful to spend quality time with my three children. We’ve talked so much about all aspects of life, what they want to achieve in the future, they’ve asked many question about my sporting career and it’s been fun going through all the different lowlights and highlights of that part of
CAN YOU TELL US SOMETHING ABOUT YOU THAT WE PROBABLY WOULD NEVER GUESS?
I have heterochromia - which is two different coloured eyes. WHAT GETS YOU OUT OF BED EVERY DAY?
The excitement of not knowing what the day will bring. YOU’RE A GUY THAT HAS TRAVELLED THE WORLD - WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE CITY AND WHY?
Melbourne is my all-time favourite city in the world because of its diverse culture, love of sport and because it’s home for me. WHAT IS NEXT FOR SHANE WARNE?
I’m very lucky that I have a lot of exciting business opportunities coming up. I’m shooting a documentary about my life, developing my second fragrance already and a few other personal opportunities that are super exciting. SW23 by Shane Warne is available exclusively now at Chemist Warehouse ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |47
PHARMACY NEWS
Blooms The Chemist shares four lessons learnt from COVID-19 By Emmanuel Vavoulas, head of retail at Blooms The Chemist
The retail healthcare industry has been significantly impacted by COVID-19. Retail staff in healthcare businesses such as pharmacies took on the same responsibilities as frontline workers, as a pharmacy is often the first place a person will go for treatment when they are suffering from flu-like symptoms. At Blooms The Chemist, our stores experienced an enormous increase of over one million customers in March 2020.As a community pharmacy group on the frontline during the pandemic, we encountered diverse and – what felt like never-ending – challenges in our stores. From medicine shortages, to enforcing social distancing and pivoting quickly to new models of operations, below are our key takeaways in managing a health crisis in retail for now and in the future. MAINTAINING TEAM AND CUSTOMER SAFETY
The utmost priority, and the biggest challenge we faced in our retail stores, was providing a safe, trusted environment for our staff and customers. Pharmacists are one of the most accessible healthcare professionals in their community, which made retail floors often the primary contact for customers experiencing symptoms. There were major concerns that team members could contract COVID-19 while at work. This was escalated by the difficulties of practising social distancing in a Pharmacy. Pharmacies typically have a small footprint – so there’s not a lot of space. This was particularly difficult when customers wanted to stay in the pharmacy and wait for their prescription. Our Blooms The Chemist Support Office team had to be agile and fast in introducing safety equipment to protect staff and customers, including sneeze guards and accessible hand sanitiser. Face masks and gloves were also used for close contact activities, such as administering health services like the flu vaccine. Split rostering – dividing the team into 48| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
two rosters – was also introduced across our entire network of 100 pharmacies. This was to protect the teams and the business in the case that any staff member tested positive for the virus. To date, no team member of Blooms The Chemist have returned a positive COVID-19 test and we are fortunate that no pharmacy had to close during the pandemic. EMBRACING EHEALTH TO MANAGE DEMAND
For our industry, the most important thing is to maintain a consistent supply of medication to the community. Stores were required to manage a huge surge in demand, driven by panic buying and pantry stocking of regular medications, pain and fever medications, hand sanitisers, thermometers and masks. Unprecedented demand for cough and cold medications also strained the supply chain and caused much stress for our teams and customers. One of the great things to come to out of COVID-19 was the digital transformation and speed of eHealth. Our traditionally ‘hands on’ industry was thrown into a new way of doing commerce, and we had to move fast with regulatory changes by the various governments and regulatory bodies. Pharmacists embraced this change and worked closely with their GPs to dispense scripts via email and get medicines straight to the customer’s door to minimise contact and make it safer for the community and staff on the frontline. This rapidly advancing digital evolution within a space of weeks enabled pharmacies to prioritise their supply chains and more easily deliver medicines direct to the doorsteps of those most vulnerable.
COMMUNICATION IS KEY
Clear and frequent communication has proven to be vital. Two-way, consistent contact and feedback between the Blooms The Chemist Support Office, Pharmacists and Retail Managers helped to reduce customer panic about not accessing the products and services needed to maintain their health. Dealing with frustrated customers and panic buying saw concerns for our staff’s physical and mental health, which was addressed by daily and weekly virtual meetings to stay on top of our team’s wellbeing and morale. Communication has proven to be the top management tool to get our team through the last few months and we have found that sending one daily source of updates to each store from the support office was the best way to manage the ever-changing information of COVID-19. MOVING THROUGH THE PANDEMIC AND BEYOND
The challenges of the pandemic have not gone away, and our industry cannot afford to be complacent. Businesses need to adapt quickly to ensure their operating model could survive in the ‘new normal’. Retail thrives when a people-first mentality is maintained. The rise of eHealth, home deliveries and fast, direct and transparent communication with stores has been absolutely vital in ensuring a customer-centric retail experience of exceptional quality is maintained. Our teams are at the frontline of the pandemic – they have had to adapt, adjust and pivot. The role of the pharmacy as a community-first business has never been more important.
Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics has expanded its retail footprint with its launch into department store giant David Jones. The rollout commenced online in August via davidjones.com, before the cosmetics powerhouse was subsequently rolled out into 12 David Jones department stores across the country. Bondi Junction (NSW), Miranda (NSW) and Rundle Mall (SA) were the stores first earmarked for stock, with plans to expand into additional stores. As a result of the rollout, Napoleon Perdis concurrently exited Priceline stores nationally. Napoleon Perdis CEO Henry Lee said he was “excited” to announce the partnership with the “premium department store retailer”.
“This reinforces our positioning as Australia’s number one prestige makeup brand and will also allow greater accessibility for customers to shop with us,” he said. “This is just the start of our journey to reinvigorate our brand both domestically and internationally.” The iconic Australian brand was acquired by KUBA Investments in April of 2019, headed up by retail investor Livia Wang and business partner Henry Lee, a former Witchery, Mimco and Country Road executive. Expanding its retail footprint was, and remains, at the forefront of KUBA Investments’ strategy both locally and internationally. Since its acquisition last year, Napoleon
PHARMACY NEWS
Napoleon Perdis exits Priceline, enters David Jones
Perdis Cosmetics has been actively seeking to expand into new sales channels. This strategy has paid off, with new sales channels now accounting for 35 per cent of overall sales. “We will continue on our mission to deepen the emotional connection with our customers and to reestablish Napoleon Perdis’ position within the market as a beauty authority,” Lee said.
Chemist Warehouse dominates supplements market Close to 40 per cent of Australians – 8.24 million – buy vitamins, minerals and supplements in the average six-month period, reveals Roy Morgan Research. Women account for 46 per cent of the market (4.88 million). But Australian men are also keen on health-from-within with a 33 per cent market share – 3.36 million. The major purchasing demographics cross three generations – older Millennials, Gen Xers and Baby Boomers – aged 35 to 64. At least 50 per cent of women and 40 per cent of men reach for vitamins or supplements during this peak purchasing age range. The habit does not fade as consumers get older. A hefty 48 per cent of women and 33 per cent of men aged 65-plus also buy vitamins and supplements regularly.
Chemist Warehouse has the dominant market share – 45 per cent of sales – by contrast to 39 per cent four years ago. Other major pharmacy groups, including Priceline, TerryWhite Chemmart and My Chemist, account for 23 per cent of vitamins and supplement sales. Supermarkets remain a popular channel with a 28 per cent share of the market,
led by Woolworths (15%) and Coles (14%). Keeping healthy has never been more important than during a global health crisis that poses a greater risk to people suffering from potential comorbidities and general poor health, says Michele Levine, CEO, Roy Morgan. “There are other key characteristics of buyers of these products that can be drawn from the in-depth Roy Morgan data. Australians who agree with the statements they ‘avoid dairy foods whenever possible’, they ‘try to buy additive-free food’, that ‘the food I eat is all, or almost, gluten-free’ and ‘a low-fat diet is a way of life for me’ – are more likely to buy vitamins, minerals and supplements than the average Australians,” she notes.
MAC Cosmetics enters Boots in the UK MAC Cosmetics took its first step in wider distribution beyond department stores and online in the US. In mid-2017, the Estee Lauder-owned prestige brand launched in select Ulta Beauty stores, the largest specialist beauty chain in the US. At the time, Karen Buglisi Weiler, then global president for the brand said: “In my mind, there may be a customer who shops at Ulta, but has never walked into a MAC store. Maybe she’s never walked into a Nordstrom to purchase MAC, or maybe she’s never walked into Macy’s.” By the end of the year, MAC had become the number one bestseller in 80 per cent of the 107 Ulta stores where it was initially sold.
MAC is now looking to follow the same strategy in the UK. The brand has debuted an edited selection of its hero products on the Boots website and in just over 100 of the retailer’s locations in the UK. Boots is clearly anticipating the same success as Ulta and will rollout more MAC products from September to December. Consumers will also be able to access advice from the brand’s BAs and makeup artists. In a re-run of Buglisi Weiler’s comments on the US move to attract a wider audience, Joanna Rogers, trading director and vice-president of beauty at Boots UK, noted: “As one of the leading premium
makeup brands, offering such a diverse range of colours, formulas and textures, we’re pleased to be making yet another iconic brand more accessible for our customers to explore.” Boots and its competitor Superdrug are the two leading beauty retailers in the UK. A similar situation to the pharmacy market in Australia, led by Priceline and Chemist Warehouse, which accounts for over 20 per cent of the overall beauty market. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |49
PHARMACY NEWS
Show yourself some
love
Chief pharmacist Georgina Twomey on the importance of self-love and how to cultivate it.
The phrase ‘show yourself some love’ means different things to each of us. For me, it’s about eating a healthy, balanced diet, some outdoor exercise (usually running or cycling) to clear my head and improve my physical health, and spending time with friends and family to re-energise. Now, more than ever, is the time to focus on self-care. Take a minute to ask yourself the following questions. Truly, take a minute, set a timer. • Where do you gain your energy from? • What makes you happy and healthy? • How do you care for yourself currently? • How can you care for yourself even better? As a pharmacist, I’d like to highlight the importance of vitamin D, as many Australians are unknowingly deficient. Vitamin D is more of a hormone than a 50| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
vitamin and is essential to our health in many important ways. As the ‘sunshine’ vitamin, many of us may be deficient if we don’t spend much time outside, have darker skin or live in an area that doesn’t experience much sunlight. Vitamin D is my highlighted self-care vitamin as it boosts immunity and reduces depression - in fact, spending some time outside to boost your vitamin D levels is self-care in itself. Think about where you get your vitamin D from. Is it enough for your self-care? Self-care for you may also involve some pampering. Let’s face it, who doesn’t love a good face mask, mani or pedi? The great news is you can do all of these things in the comfort of your own home if you wish. So, over the months ahead, make sure you take a little more ‘me’ time and show yourself some love.
Georgina Twomey Chief Pharmacist Alive Pharmacy Warehouse
BUSINESS esprit’s collection of industry experts and leaders share their thoughts on proven tactics and strategies to build your business and career.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |51
BUSINESS
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THE CHEMIST WAREHOUSE BEAUTY BUYERS
Secret Product Picks
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BRITTANI AGOSTA – CATEGORY BUYER SKIN CARE
Skin care sales have continued to power on in 2020 regardless of COVID-19 and lockdown periods. Self-care is top of mind and salon at home mentality is where it’s at. La Roche Posay brand (1) across Effaclar range, Hyalu B5 and Redermic Vitamin C serums are the hottest picks. Some of our other favourite serums are in our Beauty Glam Range (2). Great quality and super affordable serums at only $12.99. Their must-have serum is their 2% Salicylic Clear Skin Serum to prevent ‘maskne’ and care for your skin while wearing face masks. Later in the year we will release Beauty Glam Retinol serum I can’t wait! ANDREA PANAYI – CATEGORY BUYER FRAGRANCE
Although fragrance is a non-essential category, birthday activity does not stop even during COVID-19. Fragrance flew off the shelves for Father’s Day, and with Christmas around the corner, sales will only continue to grow. Some of our hottest fragrance picks now are Carolina Herrera Good Girl (3), Giorgio Armani Si(4), a true classic, and Marc Jacobs Daisy Love (5) is perfect for summer. Feeling fresh and smelling good! Self-care is something that customers are focusing on during these tough times and fragrances very much fall into this category. TARA SEDUIKIS – CATEGORY BUYER COSMETICS
The brand Flower Beauty continues to innovate and bring new and exciting make up products to the global market. In lips our hottest picks are the moment are the new Flower Petal Pout Lip Mask (6), which soothes lips in a recovery treatment, infused with nourishing mango and cocoa butter. It comforts lips with moisture and a wash of natural color. At $10 these are flying off the shelves. The other new and exciting product is the Flower Pyramid Cheek Color (7), an all-in-one highlighter and blush that creates a radiant, soft-focus flush of color for the cheeks. With two shades available and only $14, you will want both.
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BUSINESS
With literally THOUSANDS of beauty products adorning the shelves at Chemist Warehouse, it can be a daunting task to pick the best in beauty. So what products can’t the ultimate influencers – the beauty buyers – live without? Michelle Ruzzene discovers what could be your next favourite product.
At Chemist Warehouse our team make it their focus to understand changes in culture, markets and beauty brands. ALICIA VOGLES – CATEGORY BUYER HAIR CARE
Much like skin care, our hair care category sales exploded across professional hair care in brands such as Redken and Moroccanoil. We love our Moroccanoil Original Oil Treatment (8) - if you haven’t tried this product, you certainly should. Brands like our exclusive My Organics Hair Care must-haves are My Organics Goji Miracle Mask (9) and the My Organics Goji Angel Potion - these two products will transform your hair! Considering the COVID-19 situation, the concept of ‘salon at home’ is a reality. Our exclusive Kativa Hair Straightening Kits (10) are a must. At only $29.99, available in two varieties - Extra Care and Extra Shine - this product works and is easy to use. ALBINA REALE – NATIONAL CATEGORY BUYER FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY
At Chemist Warehouse our team make it their focus to understand changes in culture, markets and beauty brands. This team is passionate, as our customers want the big brands at the best prices. We launched Bali Body tanning brand in October and are very excited to build yet another strong brand within Chemist Warehouse. I personally love their Bali Body BB Cream SPF 15 (11) in Natural. I’m excited that now more customers will be able to enjoy this fabulous tanning range. We had so many incredible fragrance brands launch in October just in for Christmas. But, to name a few of my top ticks, these include Missy Fragrances, which is a young and vibrant range with super cool juices. We have R.E.M by Ariana Grande (12) which is on track to be huge, as she is the number one celebrity selling fragrance globally. The Guess new fragrance, Bella Vita, is sultry and seductive and also a winner. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |53
BUSINESS
Online Retail
Round Up
The latest news, views and insights happening in the online world of retail.
MECCA BRANDS LAUNCHES IN CHINA ON TMALL GLOBAL
Australian beauty retailer powerhouse Mecca has expanded its reach to China. Launching on e-commerce platform Alibaba’s Tmall Global, the retailer’s first endeavour in the fast-growing market will bring with it a number of highly coveted, new-to-market beauty brands to Chinese consumers. The brand has launched an edit of 22 brands and more than 200 products at its Tmall store, including its private-label offerings Mecca Brands and Mecca Max. Mecca’s Beauty Loop loyalty program will also now be available to Chinese customers. Mecca founder and co-CEO, Jo Horgan, said she was “thrilled” that the company was assisting Chinese customers, “some of the most well-informed beauty shoppers in the world”, to “unearth incredible new brands and products”. She said that “once they experience the Mecca magic, it will be love at first ‘add to cart’.” Mecca’s line up of new-to-China brands has a strong focus on A-Beauty and includes Frank Body, Go-To, Lanolips, The Beauty Chef, Dr Dennis Gross Skincare, Cosmetics 27, Briogeo, Sol de Janeiro, Ere Perez, Volition, Goldfield & Banks and Merci Handy, as well as Mecca’s own signature line brands, Mecca Cosmetica and Mecca Max. Other brands available on Tmall include Apot.Care, This Works, Philip B, Syrene, Sand & Sky, RMS Beauty and Perricone MD. The Tmall Global launch was celebrated on Wednesday, August 19, in a penthouse party at luxury hotel The Middle House, Shanghai. More than 100 guests attended the event, with Horgan attending the event ‘virtually’ via live stream from Melbourne. CHINA – A BELLWETHER FOR ONLINE PRESTIGE BEAUTY SALES
China’s e-commerce market is the largest and fastest-growing in the world. With a value of US$1.94 trillion in 2019, The NPD Group considers the Chinese online market to be a bellwether for the evolution of other markets worldwide post-lockdown, especially for prestige beauty. 54| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
This year has witnessed a huge spike in short videos, apps, livestreaming and customised services for selling prestige beauty online in China, says NPD. All these innovative marketing activities are what we see as the biggest change of this year, says Martine Ringwald, senior vice president, business development, beauty and luxury at NPD. During the coronavirus crisis Chinese consumers have not been able to purchase international brands overseas. Alibaba’s Tmall’s growth rate for prestige beauty in June was up 90 per cent over the same month last year, notes NPD. JD.com, the other Chinese online titan, saw prestige beauty sales soar 74 per cent in June. Chinese consumers continue to trade up in purchasing all beauty products, regardless of the negative impact of COVID-19, says Samuel Yan, e-commerce commercial lead for the NPD Group, based In Shanghai. According to the data tracker, pre-COVID-19 the value weight of the major beauty categories was - 64 per cent skincare, 28 per cent makeup, 6 per cent fragrance and 2 per cent haircare. Post-lockdown, skincare sales rose 5 per cent to 69 per cent, makeup slipped 4 per cent to 24 per cent, fragrance remained unchanged and haircare was down to 1 per cent. NRA JOINS FORCES WITH KLARNA TO PROVIDE VALUABLE INSIGHTS
The National Retail Association (NRA) and Klarna have announced a strategic partnership to help Australia’s retail sector by providing research, data, strategic insight and enduring value to NRA members to assist them successfully navigate the COVID-19 pandemic. With consumer behaviour changing rapidly, it is more important than ever for retailers to stay connected and up to date with latest trends and industry research. The partnership will help educate and guide brands on the best ways to attract a new generation of digital-led consumers. Klarna is the world’s largest provider of interest-free instalment shopping options and in Australia has partnered with Commonwealth Bank to deliver its products and services to retailers.
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The NRA is pleased to build on its existing relationship with CBA and new partnership with Klarna to provide value to members. The first report being made available to members is titled ‘Revive and thrive: How Australians retailers can get ahead now’. The white paper features insights out of the recent Retail HackGames to help reset expectations after COVID-19. NRA CEO Dominique Lamb said as technology continues to advance, customer expectations adapt alongside them. “Customers expect convenience and offering various payment options is one way to assure frictionless transactions. Given the growth of the Buy Now, Pay Later (BNPL) platforms in recent years, it only makes sense for the NRA to form this strategic partnership. Klarna is ideally positioned to provide valuable insights to our members. Their global footprint gives access to a wealth of data and valuable insight.” Klarna Australia and New Zealand country head Fran Ereira added: “It’s important that Australian retailers have a strong voice and we are proud to stand behind the NRA and its 28,000 shopfronts. Klarna is in Australia to deliver choice, insight and value to Australian retail businesses. We are dedicated to supporting this important sector and the contribution it makes to our economy in a time of great change.” WHY E-COMMERCE IS KEY TO RESILIENCE OF RETAIL INDUSTRY
The shift to online shopping has been kicked into overdrive since the outbreak of COVID-19 and will continue to accelerate as Melbourne faces the latest stage 4 lockdown restrictions with a significant impact on bricks and mortar retail businesses. According to Stripe head of Australia and New Zealand, Mac Wang, e-commerce is playing a key role in ensuring the resilience of the industry.
“While we continue to be concerned for the economic impact the COVID-19 pandemic is having on the Australian economy, especially Melbourne-based businesses, a new cohort of bricks and mortar businesses will now be accelerating setting up their online presence,” he said. “Being versed in the complexities of ecommerce is critical — from ensuring the right payment methods are offered, to checkout design, and overcoming cart abandonment, not to mention customer acquisition, shipping, and overall customer experience. “The focus for many now may be spinning up in the short term, but with clear signs the ecommerce boom will continue postlockdown, businesses need to shift more focus to scaling their online presence and build for a resilient tomorrow. This means leaning on technology to take the technical complexity out of the equation and ensure their online experience is frictionless.”
PINTEREST REACHES 8M AUSTRALIANS AND 400M GLOBALLY
Pinterest has reached the 400 million monthly unique visitor milestone worldwide, reports the image sharing and social media service. According to ComScore, more than 8 million Australians use the platform each month. Overall searches have risen 60 per cent since the beginning of the year and saves have surged 40 per cent. Beauty is a core interest and more that 52 million people search and engage in beauty content on Pinterest in the US alone. In January, the platform launched a virtual makeup ‘Try On’ feature, starting with lip colour. Women make up 60 per cent of Pinners, as devotees are known, worldwide. A 2018 study by GfK, the fourth largest market research organisation in the world, revealed that 87 per cent of beauty and personal care Pinners use the platform when they are actively looking to buy. Usage by Gen Zers has soared 50 per cent year-on-year, says Pinterest. The major reasons for the upsurge have been: beauty inspiration, social good, future growth and wardrobe. In the second quarter, the number of Pinners aged 25 and under grew twice as fast as those aged 25-plus. Men are the second-fastest growing audience for Pinterest – up 48 per cent. As a group, they are looking to upgrade their cooking skills from kitchen decoration and one pan dinners to baking. But healthy skincare searches have surged nine-fold in 2020. Audience growth among Millennials has increased by 36 per cent year-on-year. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |55
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Interest in hair colour streaks amongst Millennials has soared by a multiple of 58. But most are interested in family-focused and home decoration pins. BUY AUSSIE NOW MARKETPLACE LAUNCHES
An increasing number of consumers are scrutinising the country of origin of the products they buy. Since the start of the coronavirus crisis, there has been a huge upsurge in the desire to purchase Australianmade products. Mitch Catlin, the founder of Catchy Media, Marketing and Management, created the Buy Aussie Now Instagram account in March, which attracted over 20,000 followers. Teaming with business partner, Chris White, the Buy Aussie Now marketplace will began selling locally-owned and made products from August, following a capital raising in May. More than 2000 businesses signed up before launch, including leading beauty brands Bondi Sands and Milk & Co. Beauty is one of the leading eight categories, in addition to home and living, toys and education, clothing and footwear, jewellery and accessories, food and beverages, gifts and pets. Businesses can sign up free of charge to list their products on the Buy Aussie Now marketplace. There is an 8 per cent commission on each sale and payment processing fees. Like other marketplaces, consumers can sign up to receive updates, access relevant content and gift cards and join a loyalty program.
NEW CEO APPOINTED AT ADORE BEAUTY
It’s been a game-changing year for Adore Beauty. Last September, Quadrant Private Equity bought a 60 per cent stake in Australia’s leading online beauty retailer. The company specialises in investing in Australian and New Zealand companies and Adore Beauty was its third investment in a female-led company after Love to Dream, who create and distribute swaddles for infants, and Modibodi, the Aussie underwear and swimwear company specialising in protecting women from sweat, period and light bladder leaks. In July, Adore Beauty prepped for a AUD$600 million share market float, working with leading investment banks Morgan Stanley, UBS and Shaw and Partners, one of Australia’s leading wealth management and investment firms. The company has appointed a new CEO, Tennealle O’Shannessy, formerly the managing director of the Americas for Seek, the leading employment marketplace. Kate Morris, the co-founder of Adore Beauty, transitioned to executive director in January 2018. The CEO position was filled by the other co-founder of the business, James Height. Height and Morris will both be executive directors following O’Shannessy’s appointment and Morris will continue as the face of Adore Beauty. In a statement, Justin Ryan, managing partner at Quadrant and 56| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
chairman at Adore Beauty, said O’Shannessy adds further strength to the team and enhances its capability to deliver the company’s future growth potential. SWISSE WELLNESS ENJOYS 400 PER CENT E-COMMERCE GROWTH
Wellbeing, already a multi-trillion dollar global industry, has been strengthened by the COVID-19 pandemic. Swisse Wellness, the number one vitamins and supplements brand in Australia and number one in the Chinese online market, has seen a major jump in sales over the past year across both physical and virtual channels within the local market, says Nick Mann, managing director, H&H Group ANZ. We’ve not only seen an increase in Swisse’s e-commerce sites, he says. “But also a significant boost in online spending across many of our partner retailer sites, including Coles, Woolworths and Chemist Warehouse”. Swisse has created opportunity for rapid sales growth – curently 400 per cent-plus over the past year – across multiple channels, adds Mann. “Be it traditional brick-and-click retailers or the emerging pure online players, along with social media selling and the surge of our brand website”. We are also aware that the supplement market can be a confusing or intimidating space for many, he notes. “We’ve launched complimentary Wellness Consultations with our in-house team of nutritionists and naturopaths. “Consumers can book online and take a phone consultation to support their wellness needs at a time that suits them from
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the comfort of their homes. We see this as a real opportunity to genuinely connect with our customers”. In August, Swisse launched five limited edition product bundles to help support its customers post-and-mid isolation wellbeing journey, working in collaboration with world-renowned, New Yorkbased artist Brolga. Each bundle is uniquely designed with an individual animal persona targeting a range of iso-challenges – restless sleep or overindulgence – says Mann. “For example, we launched the Yawnicorn bundle which includes products that support sleep and the Glug-Glug Slugs bundle which focuses on detox products.” Swisse has also seen a big shift towards men focusing on their selfcare routine, he adds. “In June, we launched the new Swisse Men’s Skincare range, which has seen strong initial success.”
expanded an augmented reality partnership with L’Oréal. The US giant should also be an important part of online strategies for brands keen to expand in the EMEA (Europe, Middle East and Africa) region, says Wright. Amazon’s sales in the EMEA market reached US$99.6 billion in the past 12 months – over three times the size of its nearest online competitor. In Retail Insight’s view, Amazon is only getting started in the beauty space despite its already-large sales. Beauty brands with ambitions in e-commerce should be monitoring and considering Amazon as a key route to market. Walgreens Boots Alliance remains the leading global health and beauty retailer in 2020, reports Retail Insight. Total store-based and online sales are expected to reach US$130.5 billion by year’s end – up from US$124 billion in 2019. E-COMMERCE BUOYS FULL YEAR RESULTS FOR ESTÉE LAUDER
ALIBABA, AMAZON DOMINATE GLOBAL HEALTH, BEAUTY SALES
As more beauty and health brands partner with major online platforms, the future looks dazzling for e-commerce giants such as Alibaba, Amazon and JD.com. According to Retail Insight, the research and data arm of Edge by Ascential, the world’s leading e-commerce provider, the online share of the global beauty and health market is set to surge to 16.5 per cent post-COVID-19 crisis, soaring to 23.3 per cent by 2025. Retail Insight reveals that the health and beauty categories will experience the second fastest e-commerce growth after household and pet care over the next five years. Analysts predict that Alibaba, the Chinese online titan, will gain the biggest global share of e-commerce beauty revenues with US$43 billion in annual sales, followed by Amazon with an estimated US$28 billion. Both companies have invested heavily in attracting beauty and health brands. According to Florence Wright, senior retail analyst at Edge by Ascential, Alibaba’s sheer size and scale – set to serve two billion customers globally by 2036 – made it a must-win platform for brands trying to grow their international reach and visibility. Amazon and L’Oréal provides its customers an Augmented Reality makeup try-on. Amazon recently launched its own private label beauty range and
The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) have enjoyed spectacular growth over the past decade. The COVID-19 crisis has strongly affected the multinational’s fortunes, but year-on-year net sales dipped in single digits – 4 per cent – to US$14.29 billion for its 2020 fiscal year. The biggest drop came in the fourth quarter. Net sales for Q4 fell 32 per cent to US$2.43 billion by contrast to US$3.5 billion for the same period in 2019. Skincare was a major strength in the first half of the year, with sales surging 26 per cent. Makeup, fragrance and hair care saw declines of between 11 per cent and 17 per cent in the first six months of 2020. Triple digit growth in online sales in every geographic region significantly buoyed ELC during the coronavirus pandemic. A pivot which has prompted the multinational to announce a reduction of 1500 to 2000 jobs, mainly from point-of-sale. The company will also shutter 10 to 15 per cent of its freestanding stores and department store counters across its major brands in coming months. Apart from accelerated e-commerce sales, other bright spots for the 2020 fiscal year included double digit growth in travel retail, strong demand for high loyalty franchises such as Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair and Perfectionist and double digit growth for La Mer, notably in China. We enter fiscal 2021 with cautious optimism, given the vibrancy of our skincare portfolio, acceleration in Asia/Pacific, momentum online globally, and robust innovation pipeline, said Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO of the Estée Lauder Companies. “We expect sales trends to improve sequentially each quarter.”
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Caviar connoisseur Ai San Beaumont has worked in the beauty industry for 17 years with stints at Ralph Lauren, Thierry Mugler, Hermes and now La Prairie under her belt. Michelle Ruzzene finds out what it takes to thrive in the world of luxury beauty. Ai San Beaumont has a dream role working for one of the world’s most luxurious skincare company’s La Prairie. But for the busy, 41-year-old mother-of-two, her career hasn’t always been so glamorous. “My very first job was in retail, at K-Mart Chatswood when I was 17,” she said. “I worked in all departments - in layby, garden, in the changerooms and as a cashier.” Ai San said her time at the affordable retail chain, owned by Wesfarmers, taught her a valuable life lesson. “I learnt that you shouldn’t be afraid to try new things, and that you encounter so many different people in a workplace and you have no idea of their story or background,” she said. “And most importantly, I learnt you should treat everyone as you wish to be treated.” However, Ai San was fortunate enough to and her dream job in her late twenties, in a case of being in the right place at the right time, and has now been with La Prairie for more than 12 years. “My journey at La Prairie started by a chance encounter in a lift with a recruiter who was hiring for the company,” Ai San explained. “We started talking and before I knew it I was interviewing for the role – it truly was a case of right time and place. I’ve never looked back and have definitely found my work family.” Ai San was originally hired as brand manager for Australia, and a consultant for South East Asia (SEA), which included Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Indonesia and Philippines. “It was exciting to travel and get to know the teams in these different markets and understand the way the brand was marketed in other countries,” Ai San said. “Once the SEA market grew bigger and the Asian office 58| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
Ai San Beaumont Marketing and communications director, Australia and New Zealand, La Prairie
Luxury beauty involves a higher level of service for every client, so it often a labour of love. Lots of hard work and detail goes into everything to ensure the client experience is seamless. was established, I took on more responsibility in Australia including public relations. “We then also took on New Zealand, and now as marketing and communications director, the role has expanded to CRM, digital, store design and communications. Every day is different, and challenging. I’ve truly been grateful to work for a company where we have established an excellent work culture and I’m lucky to work with such clever people.”
Ai San said one of the best perks about working for a luxury skincare brand was the extravagant events. “Events at La Prairie have always been extremely special, both for clients and our team,” she said. “We have hired out the whole of Bennelong and even turned the sails of the Opera House an amethyst colour. We were lucky enough to have the whole Art Gallery of NSW after dark for an event of 40 special guests with art flown in from Switzerland.” However, Ai San iterated her job wasn’t one big party after another. “People think that my job is a series of glamourous events, which is not true,” she said. “Luxury beauty involves a higher level of service for every client, so it often a labour of love. Lots of hard work and detail goes into everything to ensure the client experience is seamless.” Pre COVID-19, travel was another perk of the role, and Ai San was able to travel extensively for work purposes, including trips to Rome, Switzerland, New York and Japan. But Ai San said the best part of her job was the “amazing clients that are so loyal and have been with us for many years”. “I love hearing their stories and how they feel about La Prairie and that makes the job special,” she said. “I’ve also been able to work with the best in the business. Special mention to Rosi Fernandez, our managing director, who I’ve had the pleasure of working with for 12 years. She is a
friend and a mentor. She’s clever, dynamic and forward thinking. I’ve also had the opportunity to work with Belinda Besant for the last nine years – she’s the most impressive presenter and educator. It’s been a delight to complement each other and contribute together to this brand that we love.” Like any career, Ai San said you had to take the bad with the good, and she had faced some challenges at La Prairie. “The brand has grown quickly in the last 10 years,” she said. “During this time, we have had periods of ‘growing pains’ where we were operating like a small brand within our team, but needing to execute the work of a much bigger team. Often when you have a big workload, it’s hard to stop and question processes.” Ai San said it placed pressure on the team while they looked for resources or ways to change the way things were executed. “We have solved those issues now and have an excellent team, but as the industry and our client needs change, we know this is an on-going process,” she said. Like most working mothers, Ai Sai said she also had to learn how to juggle young children with a demanding career. “As someone who has prided myself on a good work ethic, becoming a mum to two young kids was a steep change for me,” she said. “When I came back to work after my first baby, I was sleep deprived and trying to catch up. I had really high expectations of myself and was trying to complete work at the same speed and to the same standard. The result was that I wasn’t giving my best at work or at home, and I was a tired mess.” Ai San said trying to “do it all” wasn’t sustainable and she “learnt that balance is key”. “Delegating and asking for help is okay,” she said. “I don’t have to feel guilty if I am at work, or if I’m at home with family. I believe you can have it all, just not all at the same time.” These days, Ai San usually wakes up around 5.30am and squeezes in a workout at home, before she and her husband, Matthew, help her children Olivia, 6, and James, 4, get ready. “Mornings are a whirlwind and super busy,” she said. “I usually try to get to work early and am at my desk by 7.30am most days. Those
early hours before 9am are usually my most productive. From 9am onwards, every workday is different, filled with meetings, events, calls and strategy.” Ai San usually heads home around 4.30pm to do school pick up and spend time with her kids, before doing some work in the evenings, and taking any calls with people from the head office in Zurich. “Some days can be organised chaos,” Ai San said. “Which is why it’s so important to be present and enjoy the weekends. Because our weekdays are so busy, we try to slow it down on the weekends. We have kid’s activities like ballet, soccer and swimming. We try to catch up with friends and family as well on the weekends and get outside with our dog.” If Ai San could turn back time and talk to her 18-year old self, what would she tell her? “Be brave and expect the unexpected,” Ai San said. “Change is amazing and you should embrace it. Appreciate every relationship, you will learn something from each and every person you encounter.”
MY JOURNEY
AI SAN’S HERO BEAUTY PRODUCT: My favourite quiet achiever is Cellular 3-minute peel. It’s an amazing salon strength fruit acid peel that you use once a week. It’s so easy to use, three mins on and warm washcloth off. It really refines the skin and gets rid of all the dead skin, leaving your skin smooth and clear.
Does Ai San have any advice she’d like to share for someone wanting to pursue a similar career? “Work hard, be nice to everyone, respect every colleague, and don’t burn any bridges,” she said. “You don’t know what is around the corner, so your network is so important.” Ai San also stressed the importance of learning from others. “Find a mentor, someone that you look up to and learn from them,” she said. “Ask for help – it’s not a sign of weakness, but an opportunity to learn and show that you are in charge of your workload. It’s okay to make mistakes if you learn from them, it will teach you to take smart risks.” Ai San said she was “very excited for how beauty and digital will come together in the future” and spruiked the importance of the role of the BA in bridging these two. “The client experience will be more important than ever as there is more and more choice in beauty,” she said. “Service will be personalised and memorable and the beauty advisor will be the beauty authority, knowing more than product information, but understanding their target client, the world she lives in and her emotional reasons for wanting to buy beauty. This is relevant for stores and in the digital world.”
AI SAN’S DAILY SKINCARE ROUTINE: Mornings: I don’t cleanse in the morning, I think natural oils are good for the skin. I start the morning with a shower (and no face cleanser) and then use Cellular Refining Lotion to tone my skin. One of my favourite products is Skin Caviar Essence in Lotion, a pre-serum that conditions the skin and supercharges my skincare routine. Following that I use White Caviar Illuminating Pearl Infusion (1) and White Caviar Crème Extraordinaire. This serum and moisturiser firm, lift and work on any redness or darkness in my skin to give it glow and even skin tone. I use White Caviar Eye Extraordinaire (2) with the ceramic pearl massage tool to get the circulation going under the eyes and reduce dark circles. And always sunscreen. Night: I double cleanse with Supreme Balm Cleanser (3), a beautiful balm that melts onto the skin and then emulsifies with water. This is followed by Foam Cleanser in the shower. On clean skin I use Skin Caviar Essence in Lotion (4) and then Skin Caviar Luxe Sleep Mask or alternate with Platinum Rare Cellular Night Elixir (5) and Platinum Rare Cellular Cream (6). Night time skincare is my downtime and a daily ritual.
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AINSLIE WALKER TALKS
Niche Fragrance News
SUMMER FRAGRANCE UPDATE From Zoom launches to virtual award ceremonies, here is the latest roundup of happenings in the fragrance world.
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We made it! With 2020 basically behind us, we now have the festive season, summer and a brand new year ahead of us. Well done to all – what a wild rollercoaster ride. As people are staying local this year and not heading overseas for holidays, trends in fragrance purchasing will continue, of course, with more candles, and ambient home scenting options - a sector that has thrived throughout 2020. I predict we be buying more substantial presents for our nearest and dearest this Christmas – a year where our friends and family have all been supporting each other through tough times. What better way than a unique niche perfumer or voucher, while also supporting our gorgeous independent bricks and mortar perfumeries? It will be positive news at last to see some strong sales, boosting retail in a positive way, well into 2021. AGENCE DE PARFUMS The 2020 Spring / Summer season sees the launch of new niche fragrances from distributors Agence de Parfum including BDK Azur Collection, Juliette Has a Gun - Musc Invisible, Creed - Aventus 10th Anniversary Limited Edition and Clive Christian - Crab Apple. Brands new to the Australian market this season include luxurious Roja Dove and ultra-chic Memo Paris and this news certainly stands 60| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
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out in the Australian niche fragrance market, as many other new brand launches throughout 2020 had to be cancelled or postponed to the new year due to COVID-19 related delays. For even local Australian brand, Grandiflora, its anniversary launch of Saskia was postponed from March 2020 to sometime in 2021 due to issues with production of this delicious fragrance. Through Agence de Parfum, Cire Trudon also launched its incredibly stunning Les Albâtres Candle collection. The candles are handmade, carved in Spain and made to the specifications of the original signature glass shape with matching lids. Made from alabaster, the unique candles are translucent due to the natural stone material. The collection is only available in three scents, including one new to the brand, Héméra. September saw the exciting and anticipated launch of Balmain x Cire Trudon candle, a limited edition, strikingly designed scented candle. With only 4000 produced worldwide, these were distributed to a lucky 100 retailers, handpicked by Balmain themselves. The vessel features Balmain’s iconic horizontal nautical stripes in gold leaf and black with a velvet label. The candle is an exclusive scent featuring award-winning and best-selling Ernesto as base with the addition of Turkish black rose of Helfetti made with perfumer Emilie Bouge.
BUSINESS The limtied edition Balmain x Cire Trudon candles.
Map of the Heart’s Passion has launched in time for Christmas.
Cire Trudon distributers, Agence de Parfum, managed to secure 800 units for the Australian and New Zealand market. Peony Melbourne, Scout House St Kilda, Christine on Collins St Melbourne, Palmer and Penn in Sydney and Libertine Brisbane were selected to sell these. They are available in two sizes - 270g, RRP $120 and 3kg, RRP $1100 – making these the most high-end (and expensive) candles to hit our shelves. MAP OF THE HEART ln spring/summer, Map of the Heart’s long anticipated 30ml sized collection of four fragrances launched. They were originally scheduled to launch in April 2020, however, production issue due to COVID-19 delayed it by six months. Excitingly, it’s available in time for Christmas. Freedom, Darkness, Passion and Peace launched initially, with Valour, Ecstasy and Love to be available in time for Valentine’s Day 2021. The brand has taken time to design the packaging with moulded paper inners and eco lidded boxes, making them a substantial gift. It’s also a nice introduction to the brand, and opens the brand up to collectors who wish to have a little wardrobe of scents rather than one signature. I expect this trend to continue. 30ml, RRP $125, available online www.mapoftheheart.com Quirky newcomer Coreterno expanded its offering in Australia in spring, adding Eau de Parfums to its collection of scented and decorative pillar candles. Catharsis, Heirba Nera, Punk Motel and Rose and Me all available from Lore Perfumery in Melbourne and Gardens of Spring, Sydney. THE UK FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION AWARDS Known as the Oscars of the fragrance industry, the event became a virtual one via webinar for the first time on August 28, making it more accessible and bigger than ever. The awards celebrate 25 categories in fragrance (15 listed below). Finalists are selected and winners chosen by votes and announced at the event. Niche offerings now feature strongly in this event, a sign of the huge wave and success of niche industry, particularly over these past 10 years. A huge accolade was that of independent designer Marc Antoine Barrois and Givaudan perfumer Quintin Bisch winning even over the ever-popular Creed’s Aventus Cologne. The fragrance is available exclusively in Australia at Peony, Melbourne. Illustrating the gender fluidity now in fragrance, particularly niche, Le Labo’s - Baie 19 was a finalist for Best New Men’s Fragrance and Best New Women’s Fragrance, and ended up winning in the men’s category. 01. Armani Prive Orangerie Venise - Best New Fragrance in Limited Distribution Men
02. Dior Joy Eau De Parfum Intense - People’s Choice 03. Yves Saint Laurent Libre - Best New Fragrance Women 04. Lancôme Idôle - Innovation Award 05. Floral Street Electric Rhubarb - Best New Fragrance in Limited Distribution Women
And the winners are... BEST NEW FRAGRANCE MEN LE LABO – BAIE 19 BEST NEW FRAGRANCE WOMEN YVES SAINT LAURENT – LIBRE BEST INDEPENDENT FRAGRANCE FLORIS – VERT FOUGÈRE EAU DE PARFUM BEST INTERIOR FRAGRANCE CIRE TRUDON – ERNESTO DESIGN & PACKAGING GUCCI THE LUXURY COLLECTION: THE ALCHEMIST’S GARDEN INNOVATION LANCÔME – IDÔLE LIMITED DISTRIBUTION MEN ARMANI PRIVE – ORANGERIE VENISE LIMITED DISTRIBUTION WOMEN FLORAL STREET – ELECTRIC RHUBARB MEDIA CAMPAIGN ARIANA GRANDE – THANK U, NEXT JO MALONE LONDON – GENT CAMPAIGN WITH JOHN BOYEGA NEWCOMER SOUS LE MANTEAU PEOPLE’S CHOICE DIOR – JOY EAU DE PARFUM INTENSE PERFUME EXTRAORDINAIRE MARC – ANTOINE BARROIS – GANYMEDE – SUBMITTED BY GIVAUDAN RETAILER AND ONLINE RETAILER OF THE YEAR HARRODS READER’S CHOICE CHANEL – GABRIELLE ESSENCE EAU DE PARFUM ULTIMATE LAUNCH YVES SAINT LAURENT – LIBRE ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |61
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Voluntary Industry Code on Animal Testing and Cosmetics By Dr Jennifer Semple AUSTRALIA’S VOLUNTARY CODE ON ANIMAL TESTING AND COSMETICS
Product safety is the number one priority for the cosmetic industry. As for many other industries that provide products for human use―such as the pharmaceutical, food and other chemical industries―animal testing has historically been one important source of data for the cosmetics industry to demonstrate product safety. However, animal testing for ingredients used in cosmetic products is no longer permitted in some jurisdictions, such as the European Union, India, Israel and Norway. And, since 1 July 2020, Australia. This means that new cosmetic ingredients manufactured in, or imported into, Australia will not be able to use data or information from animal tests conducted from this date to demonstrate safety. The ban is set out in and regulated by the Industrial Chemicals Act 2019 (Cth), the Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS), and the Industrial Chemicals (General) Rules 2019 (Cth). Supporting the ban on use of new animal test data for ingredients used in cosmetics is a ban on conducting any animal tests in Australia for cosmetic products. This is being implemented via the National Health and Medical Research Council’s ‘Animal Ethics Code’. REPLACEMENTS FOR ANIMAL TEST DATA
The cosmetic industry has been a driving force in the development of effective alternatives to animal testing methods―well beyond what is proportional in terms of the industry’s turnover or actual animal use. (The pharmaceutical industry has been and is by far the greatest user of animals for research and development and regulatory testing purposes, accounting for 50% of animal use in the EU in 2005 in comparison to 0.05% of animal use by the cosmetics industry.) Validated and accepted alternative test methods for assessing and demonstrating the suitability of new ingredients include in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo (human), in chemico and in silico methods. Other options to demonstrate the safety of new ingredients include through use of historical data, read-across from data on similar ingredients, justifying the absence of data, and combining data from various sources. 62| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
The Australian cosmetics industry―through Accord―is working with the federal Health Department to develop a Voluntary Code of Practice for the Cosmetic Industry in Australia for the ban on testing cosmetics on animals. The Code is being developed to address findings from community and key stakeholder consultation undertaken by the Australian Government prior to introducing the animal testing ban. This research revealed a lack of available information about animal testing for cosmetics in Australia, confusion around the practices and terminology used regarding animal testing, and a need for greater transparency regarding on-pack information. For example, many of the terms and symbols currently being used in relation to animal testing have no clear meaning. What do ‘Cruelty Free’ and ‘Against animal testing’ really mean? And consumers need greater clarity on the various ‘bunny’ logos out there, many of which are managed and run by animal welfare organisations. Additionally, other claims such as the product being natural, organic or plant-based cannot necessarily be read as meaning a product has not been tested on animals. Accordingly, the Voluntary Code aims to provide the industry and consumers with clarity on the meaning of various claims about animal testing in relation to cosmetics, including by: • explaining the laws about the use of animal test data in the cosmetic industry • defining terms used in relation to animal tests • providing guidance on the use of advertising claims. Cosmetic companies and the retailers of cosmetic products will be able to refer to the Code for best practice guidance on product marketing claims related to animal testing. Ultimately, the Code will help provide greater clarity for consumers so they can better understand animal testing claims being made on products. Accord will provide more information to the industry on the Code following its finalisation.
ABOUT DR JENNIFER SEMPLE
Dr Jennifer Semple is the Innovation & Education Manager at Accord Australasia Limited
ABOUT ACCORD
Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australianowned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www. accord.asn.au
HEALTH & WELLNESS
Health & Wellness Insider secrets, tips, insights and advice from esprit wellness experts on how to live a healthier life.
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mate
SOUL SEARCH By Andrea Ferrari, esprit Founder
I’m on Tinder. It’s a polarising announcement. There are those of you who are all too familiar with the ups and downs, the twists and turns of online dating, who will empathise. There are those who are dewy eyed and blissed out with their new soul mate or wedded partner and will encourage me. And there are those who have preconceptions and wouldn’t touch it with a barge pole…determined to meet their someone in “real” life. And then there’s a bunch of us who tout the tried & trusted sayings: “you gotta be in it to win it”…“what have I got to lose?”…and… “you may have to kiss a lot of frogs before you find Prince Charming”. So, I’m puckering up to plant my smackeroo on a few Freddo Frogs.
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As New Year brought with it the usual personal audit, decluttering and life-plan making, I reviewed my future. Like you, I didn’t get the memo about a global pandemic and hadn’t heard of the expression “social distancing”, so in January I sat with a friend and contemplated MY 2020 in my new role on esprit as more of a consultant than the day-to-day editor. I now have hours of my own to fill with adventures. Jollying around the world sounds fun. Even more fun when it was a real possibility. Picturing myself gadding off on mountain treks, heading to Bali for yoga teacher training and planning to discover South America sounds magical, but did I want to pursue these adventures on my tod. I am an independent, self-driven, disciplined sort, which, when I write it here stirs in me the thought that maybe my edges aren’t soft enough to let anyone in? Honest self-inquiry is revealing, and I’d recommend best done with a non-judgemental friend. The truth is 100% more helpful than platitudes. So, there we sat in January, in a café, crafting my Tinder profile. This is not the first time I’ve collaborated on writing a dating site profile for myself. Back in about 2014 I was chatting with a girlfriend about what she’d been up to recently. Her face melted with a luminous smile - “I’ve met ‘The One’.” Eager to know where “The One” had been all her life, I asked “where?”. She rather reluctantly confessed, in a whisper I may say, “RSVP”. Ten years ago, that was the dating site of preference, for actually meeting a respectable
walk on the beach first date. Lovely. Great conversation. No red flags and we agreed to meet again. A walk in Manly and coffee. Six dates later we’re still having a walk in Manly and coffee. Mentions were made of mixing it up a bit, and we did have a coffee and sit at Clontarf beach. Again, lovely man. But where was my voice? My empathetic tendencies were having a field day and I was getting nowhere. Onto my yoga mat. Into my meditation. Counselling with my daughter, who guides me with a firm hand, and now I’m endeavouring to mindfully manage my matches. How do I gauge if this 2D image and 500 characters (some have a really brief profile) is going to be your next Daddy, I quip to my horrified daughter. I don’t. It’s a process. It takes a mindful approach to parking all our old triggers, our past conditioning, being clear with our boundaries, maintaining our values and ethics and speaking up rather than brewing a grievance because of a past ‘date’ and putting him in the same box…the out box. Of course there is no shortage of online advice and in-home groaning. Adult kids become babes again. They care that I’m happy. I am. And they care that I find fulfilment in the companion department. But they don’t want to hear: “Oh my giddy aunt” one more time! I have a date lined up for Friday. He’s coming over my way. Day time, no alcohol. A walk and coffee. He sounds nice, and he likes my stories…and we both have good grammar. That’s 3 boxes ticked… what MORE do I want?!
“You may have to kiss a lot of frogs before you find Prince Charming”. So, I’m puckering up to plant my smackeroo on a few Freddo Frogs.
HEALTH & WELLNESS
partner and/or potential husband. There were loads of men listed, so presumably they were keen on a relationship, too. The apps offering a ‘quickie’, or ONS (that’s One Night Stand … you quickly pick up the prolific acronyms) were popping up, but the lines were clearly defined. RSVP for relationship dating. Tinder in those days was more for a spontaneous, possibly quickie hook-up. My darling blissed-out friend agreed to sit with me and write my RSVP profile all those years ago, and what a laugh we had. With my profile launched, it set me galivanting off a rampage of ill-thought-through dating, fuelled by sparkling wine and every time ending in me scrambling into my own bed, tiddly and well aware that this approach to finding ‘The One’ had zero promise. Yet I did it again and again over a four- or five-month episode. Looking back now, I think I had a whole lot of abandonment issues and was totally unaware of setting boundaries. Burned out and with some tales of escaping a bar where the already pissed date ordered a pint and chaser at closing time, a five-foot-high monologuer and a fellow who told me ALL the ins and outs of his son’s job at the bus depot, I closed down my RSVP shenanigans and left it to real life. Back to January 2020 and my Tinder profile. Why Tinder? Many of my formerly single girlfriends have met lovely guys there and partnered up. My guiding friend is now 18 months into her relationship and had fresh thoughts on what to say, what to reveal and the snapshot picture to paint. “You’ve got to let them know you’re a professional but you’re quirky… tell them you like oat chai latte”. Disclosing my preferred beverage will convey something about me? “Absolutely”, she confirmed with a dismissive flourish. Add to that my passion for daily yoga, my yearning to spend long stays in India and my walking fitness and we’re building a picture. Then I discovered we only get 500 characters to tell ALL this fascinating information about ourselves to catch the eye of our very own ‘The One’. Well, I’m an editor aren’t I, so I nipped and tucked and waved a magic wand over it all and boom, pressed GO. There’s a saying that was popular about 100 years ago and it has a certain genteel ring about it that appeals to me, rather than the expletives used more commonly today. When I’m confronted with a surprise, my tongue is trained to blurt out the genteel saying: ‘Oh my giddy aunt’. Well OMGA became my daily expletive as I scrolled and swiped left so many times my right index finger got cramp. Maybe my distance range was too broad? I’ve never seen so many tattoos on one large tummy in all my life; I never knew men were so proud of the huge fish they caught; and if creative facial hair design and straddling a huge throbbing motorbike were in the Olympics, I could show you a few potential gold medallists. And I am sure the guys have similar comments about the ladies. In fact, I know they do. They’ve told me, at length! So, I’m live on Tinder. This time – no alcohol on first dates. I met a lovely widower. Truly a nice man. He was ready. I wasn’t. This friendly exchange that lasted about 4 weeks revealed to me my old jelly-like boundaries. I need to firm up my boundaries, step into my personal power, and then I can really be ME. Not agreeing with everything to please, and then feeling uncomfortable and running for the hills. Definitely my learning there. Then COVID-19 hit. During lockdown things naturally went quiet, but as we emerged here in NSW, I returned to scrolling and swiping. I acquired a walking friend in Manly. Coffee and a
Here’s to ‘The One’, Love and namaste, Andrea
MY EXPLANATORY NOTE
So, my remit for these pages is to give you ME, after writing for trade magazines for 42 years, 32 of those with esprit. Close to my heart is managing oneself within a relationship…that could be with your partner, your kids or your customers. Or, in my case, my Tinder matches. I have shared many times my views on those who are nice to the people who will benefit them in some way yet they’re rude to the waitstaff, for example. If you’re dismissive to the barista who brews and decorates your coffee with a heart, then fawning over the barrister who’ll get you off the hook and believe yourself to be a “nice” person, you’re not. And judging a book by its cover is also revealing. When a customer approaches your counter, consistent good manners and a friendly welcome are your go-to. A casual woolly-haired man at the weekend may be the CEO of a leading corporate in a suit during the weekday. Judgement and assigning value to his two different appearances has no place. Whatever he looks like he is a human being approaching your counter and deserves your knowledgeable and welcoming best. Whether he buys this time or not. You’re like a joyful celebrant, marrying people with your available solutions.
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SUMMER ESSENTIALS The ultimate must-haves in beauty for the warmer months.
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05. 02.
01. Jurlique’s Herbal Recovery Signature Eye Serum - www.jurlique.com/au
02. Ecoya Summer Limited Edition Sorbet Body Lotion in Coral – www.ecoya.com.au
03. Lemonhead LA Spacepaste in Private School www.scottysmakeup.com.au
04. Max Factor Miracle Second Skin Foundation with SPF 20 - www.maxfactor.com
05. Davines SU Aftersun - www.davines.com 06. Embryolisse Eau Active Water Multi-Function Face Mist - www.embryolisse.com.au
07. Bondi Sands SPF50+ Fragrance Free Sunscreen Spray - www.bondisands.com.au
08. Moroccanoil Blonde Perfecting Purple Shampoo - www.moroccanoil.com
09. Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Le Parfum – www.puig.com/en
06.
10. Napoleon Perdis Cheek Switch Creme Blush Stick in Save the Coral – www.napoleonperdis.com
11. SheaMoisture Purple Rice Water Strength + Color Care Masque – www.chemcorp.com.au
12. Burt’s Bees Sweet Mandarin Lip Balm www.burtsbees.com.au
13. Sensori + Clarifying & Strengthening Serum-inOil - www.sensoriplus.com
14. Klorane Detox Dry Shampoo with Organic Aquatic Mint - www.klorane.com
15. Rimmel Lasting Finish Lip Liner in Sunset Pink -
07.
www.rimmellondon.com/en-au
16. Revlon PhotoReady Prime Plus Brightening and Skin-Tone Evening - www.revlonanz.com
17. Clinique Moisture Surge Intense 72-Hour Lipid Replenishing Hydrator - www.clinique.com.au
18. Gucci Bloom Profumo Di Fiori EDP www.gucci.com/au/en_au
19. SkinCeuticals Ultra Facial Defense SPF 50+ www.skinceuticals.com.au
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09.
20. Aveda Botanical Repair Strengthening Leave-In Treatment - www.aveda.com.au
21. Grown Alchemist Natural Hydrating Sunscreen SPF30+ - www.grownalchemist.com/au
22. Bathefex Softsole Express Exfoliating Foot Peel - www.chemcorp.com.au
23. Avène’s Antirougeurs Unify SPF 30 www.avene.com.au
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HEALTH & WELLNESS
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One Step to
Freedom
My aim is for you to feel better by connecting you to your own personal power – that you feel more alive and vibrant through a deeper connection to yourself. Therefore, it is important to explore what is holding you back. The dictating voice of your mind may be subconsciously directing much of your daily tasks and the way you live your life.
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Recently, I have noticed suffering that occurs because of Shouldism: taking action from a place of what you believe you should do rather than what you would like to do. “Oh, I really should go to Leanne’s birthday tonight” or “I really should meditate” or “I should be running more.” There are NO “shoulds” in this life. NOT ONE! There is nothing you should or should not do in this life, not even swear, steal, kill. These are principals you may not wish to do but not something an external force can impend upon you. You are powerful enough that you can choose your actions from your own personal values. My work is about empowering you so that you can choose how you create your day and life. Be mindful of the energetic intention you step into each activity with. The connotation of “should” is one that is
something on a greater level with you – perhaps you hate your job? Perhaps the gym makes you feel so self-conscious it is more damaging than good? This is where a new way can be manifested. I ask you to get to know yourself on a deeper basis. Audit your values. What do you enjoy doing? Start questioning everything you do in your life and ask yourself: Is this something I do because I should or because I want to?
HEALTH & WELLNESS
negative, obligatory, bound, restrictive and filled with guilt. It is the energy that you turn up to each event or occasion with. It becomes the intention of your experience. That’s not how I live my life and it certainly doesn’t have to be how you live yours. You can choose to create your day with all the things you WANT to do. I can hear you asking – but there are many things I should do, aren’t there? It’s only fair, isn’t it? What is fair about forcing yourself to do something that your body does not want to do? What is healthy is listening to your body and honouring its needs and if that means sleeping-in 30 minutes or skipping the gym this afternoon then so be it. How do you know the extra energy of sleep didn’t serve you in a better way later that day? Honour what your body is asking for and if you continue to press the snooze button for weeks or skip the gym regularly then your body is trying to communicate
On a continuous basis keep questioning. When we develop habits from an initial place of desire it is likely that after some time it will not give you the same excitement as when you first tried it – so change it! Your time is so valuable that even having coffee at a place that doesn’t give you energy is a waste of time. Choose the coffee shop that makes you go YES! Follow your desires no matter how big or little they are - you don’t know what is waiting for you at the other end. HAPPY LIVING YOUR LIFE! I would love to hear from you! I am here for guidance, life renovations and to help you clarify your direction so get in touch.
Olivia is an English-born qualified masseuse, meditation and yoga teacher, based in Sydney’s inner west, running Olivia Ferrari Wellness. For bookings and more information: www.oliviaferrariwellness.com ph: 0424 046 301 fb: @oliviaferrariwellness ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |69
INFLUENCER
INFLUENCER esprit’s collection of industry friends share their strategies on networking, selling, product knowledge and job-related growth to build your career as a beauty assistant, beauty influencer. 70| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
COVID-19 has already turned retail therapy into retail anxiety – now Christmas is about to be thrown into the mix. We find out how those working on the shop floor keep calm and carry on during the peak retail season.
AMY HOPES MAC COSMETICS AUSTRALIA Store: FSS MT GRAVATT City: BRISBANE, QLD In retail, stressful situations are inevitable. For me, it is important that I remember I cannot control my circumstances, but I can control how I respond to them. I reduce stress by being prepared, focusing on my customers, and encouraging teamwork. Positive thinking helps me approach stressful situations in a more proactive and productive way, while helping me remain calm towards my customers. Ensuring I communicate effectively with my team and customers as well as being attentive to peoples’ behaviours helps me proactively manage peak trade.
esprit asked the BAs: “How do you remain calm and pleasant during stressful/peak hours?”
Nicole Berry Clinique Store: Myer City City: Sydney, NSW To ensure I can remain calm and pleasant, I find organisation and preparation for the day is crucial in allowing myself and team to manage busier times within the business. This includes pre-planning prior to store opening around stock levels, consultation areas and break alignment for staffing. During peak times, our service model around serving one too many is dependent upon being aware of our surroundings and noticing when a customer approaches the counter. Acknowledging the customer takes priority at this time, particularity when serving another customer, just by giving the
INFLUENCER – BEAUTY & THE BEST
KEEP CALM and RETAIL ON
waiting client a smile and offering a sample pot. This allows the client to be actively engaging in the counter space while the team is busy serving other customers. There are often customers in peak hours who are in a hurry - during these peak times I find it beneficial to observe the body language of these clients and provide service solutions. I’ve always found that with a smile and acknowledgement of each client’s importance to you and the business they embrace our time and are happy with the environment they are shopping in, which ultimately allows myself, team and clients with in the business to remain calm and pleasant during busier times.
During these peak times I find it beneficial to observe the body language of these clients and provide service solutions. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020 |71
Samantha Tonkin Benefit Cosmetics Store: MYER City City: Sydney, NSW At Benefit, we believe that ‘Laughter is the Best Cosmetic’ and we love to bring this energy to our counters each and every day. We have that ‘locker room banter’ between our team and all our customers which helps during those peak times. We can smile and laugh through those sometime stressful and high energy periods. The real connections that we make with our customers helps when it comes to making sure we can look after all Benefit customers, which sometimes is more than one at a time. However, during our Benefit Brow Service appointments, our customers know that they will have our full attention on them and their brows for the duration of their service.
Kylie Schulte Discount Drug Store Store: Fitzroy St City: Nanango, QLD I feel the best way to remain calm during stressful, peak hours is to simply take a breath! Continue to work efficiently but also try to take a moment to reset and make sure the situation/s are not overwhelming you. Remind yourself to stay positive and try to delegate tasks when needed. Many times, I have been able to defuse a stressful or negative experience, particularly with customers, by remaining upbeat and calm. Also, teamwork is SO important. If you have a strong foundation within your team, you can work together effectively and you will know that you can get through those situations time and time again.
I like to remind myself how I would feel in the customers shoes, how I would like to be treated. 72| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
Jessica Buttsworth Ramsay Pharmacy Store: Malouf Pharmacy High St City: Toowoomba, QLD I make sure I set myself up mentally at the beginning of each day. This includes arriving at work early to prepare my cup of coffee and get my desk ready. It also allows me to read any notes left for me and arrange a to-do list for the day before my shift starts. I find doing these things ensures I start my shift positively and allows me to get my work done as efficiently as possible. I find I get the most stressed when I have a cluttered desk and therefore pack away each job completely before starting my next task. Doing this also allows me to break up each task so my to-do list does not become too daunting. If I find that I do not have enough time to finish my work, I make sure I ask for help from the pharmacists or front shop staff so I can get the most important tasks completed.
INFLUENCER – BEAUTY & THE BEST Amanda Davis Craignish Pharmacy Store: Karraschs Rd City: Craignish, QLD When work gets busy or stressful, I love knowing that I am a part of an amazing team. I believe that it is important to lean on each other for support during these times, even if it is a quick ‘you got this’ or lending a hand to help out your team. You have the power to really shift the mood in your store for both staff and customers. You can certainly feel the atmosphere when people are overwhelmed or stressed. I try to eliminate this by being my best self, having fun and really engaging with people.
You have the power to really shift the mood in your store for both staff and customers.
Louise Smoothy Marc Edward Agency Store: David Jones Chatswood City: Sydney, NSW We all know those busy peak hours and how stressful they can be. Maintaining a pleasant and calm front during those peak times really helps manage the actual stress levels. If you can manage to step back and look at the situation objectively, and identify the pressure points, then you can prioritise important tasks and focus on doing one thing at a time. This will ease your stress levels. Trying to do three things at once will just get them all half done. One other great tactic is be proactive and prepare for the rush, manage your stock and collateral, make sure you know your stock and where it is, organise excess stock and any collateral so that you can get to it easily you will look in control and aren’t promising things that can’t be found. My last tip is engage with your customers smile and be polite, a little light-hearted chatter can diffuse a stressed customer and turn the encounter into a fun one in which your customers leave smiling.
Beatrice Thompson Marc Edward Agency Store: Myer Parramatta City: Sydney, NSW Oh my, the power of positive thoughts! When the hustle and bustle starts to take over I like to steady my mind and focus on the positive things happening around me, the delight when a customer finds the perfect product, the excitement of sales and the buzz of being busy. I also think keeping your eye on the prize is important, not letting yourself get distracted by things that are not within your control. I try to stay focused on the task at hand and shut out the rest. Lastly, I like to remind myself how I would feel in the customers shoes, how I would like to be treated. Everyone deserves a seamless customer experience no matter how manic it is instore.
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INFLUENCER Gina Yallamas, Urban Sharman
esprit publisher Nicci Herrera
The
Simple
Life
After clearing out her house, office space and wardrobe, Nicci Herrera was still feeling unsettled and like her life was in disarray. So, she swapped the bright lights and the toxic hustle and bustle of Sydney for a break in the Southern Highlands. The esprit publisher shares more about her personal journey and how important self-care is for survival.
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Springfield Farm
Covid, Covid, Covid! I am done with the negative impact that can be attached to these words. The positives are there – if we look for them. Some of us have struggled with the changes to our lives, while others have embraced them. The pandemic has affected our work lives and our family lives – even ‘normal’ chores, such as doing the groceries, are not the same. But this global virus has also given us time. Time to reflect and time that can bring to the surface deep emotions, fears and trauma that a busy lifestyle has allowed us to supress deep, deep down, where it may have stayed for a good few years or even decades. So, after clearing out my house, my office space and my wardrobe I was still feeling lost. I was introduced to Gina Yallamas, Urban Sharman – a mother of one of my daughter’s friends started chatting about life and how we all feel great when we clear out our desks or our cupboards. But we never think to clean out our heads, our hearts, or our bodies. After listening to Gina’s advice, I realised only thing left to clean out was - me! In a stroke of luck, Gina, an urban sharman, had spaces still available at her three-day retreat at Springfield Farm in Avoca, Southern Highlands. It was the most stunning location I have seen. The farm features a recently flipped homestead by Collette Dinnigan and is now owned by an amazing family that truly know how to
provide the perfect location for anyone hosting their own retreat or corporate team building getaway. As most retreats would have it, part of the philosophy is ‘what is shared on the retreat stays on the retreat’. Without going into too much detail, this journey unlocked for me some deep, deep emotions. I felt I had not been coping well for a long time, and two weeks later, I am not only coping, I feel lighter, I am more motivated, more empowered and fearless in my decisions. I am so excited see out this year and to welcome 2021.
INFLUENCER
Being both soft and strong is a combination very few have mastered. – Yasmin Mogahed
THE EMERGENCE OF HEART CENTRED LEADERS
Peter Barge, a former CEO who is now a farmer and resident eccentric garden-guru, along with his nutritionist daughter Shannon Rosie Barge, who has a beautiful energy that immediately radiates and draws you in, warmly greeted me at the eco-conscious Springfield Farm. Peter is now producing its solar energy, organic nutrient rich food from their land and nothing goes to waste here. Springfield Farm even created Home Grown: An Introduction to Permaculture, to educate on the joys of homegrown food. www.lifeatspringfield.com
Aussie made
About Springfield Farm
Gina works with leaders stepping into greater purpose and influence in their lives to help them to embody, explore and maintain peak personal performance aligning with heartbased intentions. Leaders in our modern fast paced urban world are increasingly faced with complexity, unpredictability and misaligned values within themselves and their environments. Challenges in defining and implementing visionary strategies within a culture of human connection and inclusivity are severely hindering engagement in workplaces. Limited vision translates to limited resources and reduced motivation. People want to feel inspired and passionate about what they do and how they can contribute to the greater good through all areas of their lives as a whole. Lack of diversity, political game playing and authoritarian approaches to leadership are fast approaching their expiry date. Empathy, emotional intelligence, intuitive self-awareness, and an inherent need to live purposefully are aspirational needs and wants for many people. Transitioning between the two extremes is the issue as conventional outdated modes of operation are dissolved or dismantled to allow for progressively collaborative, compassionate and empowered modes of operation to organically transpire. “Personal transformation and self-leadership starts with your health and wellbeing, physical and non-physical. Your ability to face challenges and embrace opportunities in this complex world is based on your personal frequency. Learning to optimise and manage your wellbeing and outlook by understanding energy and natural flow, leads to a balanced way of life.” Gina Yallamas. To find out more about Self-leadership Transformational Coaching contact Gina at info@ginayallamas.com or on +61 408 698 84.
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INFLUENCER
A fragrant
affair By @icybutterfly
Tips on how to purchase a new fragrance online. It is not so easy to head to our local beauty counter to shop fragrance right now. How are you coping with online shopping? I am a fragrance lover. I never leave home without spraying one of my most loved scents. As a beauty editor, I have been gifted a lot of full-sized fragrances. I do have a system when I unbox every
A good tip is to find out what is common in the notes of the fragrances you already have. I personally love fruity fragrances. When I notice my favourite fruit’s name on the ingredients, I know it won’t go wrong on me. 76| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
fragrance - each time it would be like a ceremony. Sometimes, I could sort of guess how much I would appreciate this new scent before I sprayed it – whether this would be a fragrance that I would wear or not. Let me share some of these tips. I hope they will help you to understand how to purchase a fragrance without physically smelling it. Who is the face of the new fragrance? Do you want to be this person? Whether they are idols, celebrities, or athletes, there must be a reason he or she has been chosen. Watch the campaign a few times. Listen to the background music. Try to ‘walk’ into its story. Do you feel that’s who you would like to be? If so, there is a good chance that this fragrance is designed for you. Alternatively, some fragrances have their own stories. These are linked to the inspirations of its creation. A great example are the ‘destination-inspired’ fragrances. Read the description. Imagine yourself being there. Is that a dream place you would want to visit? Or you might have been on that journey already? It may bring back some great memories of that travel? Bingo, that might be a suitable new fragrance for you. I am sure social media and fragrance reviews have done a lot of homework for you. The social posts may give a lot of hints of how this fragrance makes people feel. It is always a great idea to get a second opinion from a professional. But what’s more important is to understand the true message from each post. What’s being displayed in the visual? What’s the colour of the theme? Do their posts make you want to own that fragrance?
toilette is good enough. Wearing fragrance should be pleasant, and not annoy others. At a beauty counter, the best way to find a signature scent is try out a few fragrances a time. Online shopping puts a limit to your options. Many brands now offer starter kits or travel sets. From those, you will receive a few miniatures to test from, mostly the top sellers from the brand. These are a great investment, as they allow you to have fun selecting new fragrances and having enough time rebounding with a fragrance after the first try. The miniatures are also great to travel with. Even the most simple recipes can be re-interpreted in million different ways. That’s the power of wearing fragrance. In difficult times, fragrances are not only great gifts but can also be our friends. They can bring back good memories. Some are like invitations to travel, some are artistic, some are like a bouquet of flowers, some give us warmth or energise us. Don’t give up your love of fragrances during this challenging time. Don’t stop enjoying every moment of life.
01. Icy misses her time spent at Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley, the trip rich in nature that made her appreciate fruity and woody fragrances even more.
INFLUENCER
Have you got a few fragrances that you already love wearing? Before you make a purchase decision on a new scent, check what you have already got. Ask yourself why would you want to make a change this time? Understand the notes you prefer. Are you a citrusy person? Do you love the floral notes, or do you enjoy the woody scents more? You may notice, most of the fragrances you have already used are often from the same family, sharing some similarities. A good tip is to find out what is common in the notes of the fragrances you already have. I personally love fruity fragrances. When I notice my favourite fruit’s name on the ingredients, I know it won’t go wrong on me. Who is the nose of the perfume? A ‘nose’ is the person who sources the ingredients and designs a fragrance’s recipe. This person is also in charge of guarding the notes after it is developed, to ensure the production maintains the fragrance’s quality and stays true to the original recipe. If you happen to find out the name of the nose of a fragrance, you can research on their past creations. You may get a general understanding what this new fragrance may smell like. The packaging can also reflect the type of the fragrance. The colour of the fragrance typically says a lot. Hot pinks are mostly floral, it has always got something to do with sweetness, youthfulness, energy and romance. Light pinks are sometimes used to represent chypre, light floral or fruity notes. Yellow brings out the brightness from the citrus notes - some may also have honey’s warmth in them. Blue often represents freshness, aquatic, or airy notes. Green is often linked to nature, grass or leaves. White has a lot to do with purity. White can also be used to showcase a list of ingredients from white flowers. Gold and black are often designed for those intense scents, including a lot of oriental, earthy and leather fragrances. But gold and silver may also be selected to add a luxurious touch. What do you expect from the fragrance’s longevity of wearing? Some fragrance have a full range of concentrations to select from. Don’t rush to check out, make sure you select the most suitable concentration. If you wear your fragrances mostly during the day, an intense version should not be your first option unless you are looking for one that lasts all day long. If you are going out for fine dining or to enjoy a good bottle of wine, try to avoid a fragrance that is too overpowering. For this occasion, eau de
01.
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INFLUENCER
M I C H A E L’ S T O P T I P S O N
THE Summer Makeup Trend Makeup has always been the accessory to fashion and now in 2020, makeup is now the accessory to skin. By Michael Brown
Well what a year 2020 has been - one we won’t forget any time soon. But if any positive has come out of living through a global pandemic, for most of us, it was a time to take a step back to re-focus. We learnt to value those important things that in busier times we can take for granted, one being our health, and that includes skin health. Lockdowns across the country saw many of us (including myself) with more time 78| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
on our hands. That meant more reason to actually use products, like masks and serums, that we sometimes push aside when our schedules can be more demanding. Beauty sales throughout the past six months showed strong skincare growth and a definite rise in skincare tools like LED light therapy masks, cleansing devices and face rollers. All gained attention in a time where DIY beauty is at an all-time high, with more time
and needs to look after ourselves in the comfort of our own homes. SKIN BEAUTY IS KEY…
While we usually turn to events for beauty trends, like Red Carpets and Fashion Weeks around the world, this year it seemed that the glitz and glam took a backseat and ‘Zoom’ beauty was a trend in itself. This entailed basically looking fresh and finding the best light to embrace
‘DOLPHIN SKIN’
By now you have probably heard of the beauty trend that has taken the second half of 2020 by storm - think dewy, fresh and glass skin all in one trend – it’s Dolphin Skin. Combine good skin care prep products with a few key makeup items, and you too could have the look of glistening, light-reflective, water-like glow, just like when Flipper leaps out of the crystal blue waters with showcasing reflective shine. Sounds easy, right? Here’s the trend of the season broken down; The trend term was created by Mary Phillips, celeb makeup artist and lover of skin glow - I mean, who isn’t? First we loved contour, then we reduced the shade to have more light and a dewy highlight was all the rage. But, to be honest, a lot of skin started looking more made up than ever with so much powderbased, metallic highlighters being applied heavily and only looking great if you had a constant ring light on your face. Last year we saw the start of ‘glass’ skin and it basically was adding glow, light and luminosity in a non-metallic effect. This means not using a powder highlighter and aiming for a liquid, glass shine effect on the skin. Glass skin was very minimal and very much only focused on the upper cheekbone, where light hits naturally on the face. But ‘dolphin’ skin focuses on the entire face and
incorporates both skincare and makeup in a major glow-giving, luminous form, making it the perfect, light reflective and wet-look summer makeup trend this coming season. PRODUCTS NEEDED
As with a lot of makeup artists, I am all about mixing skincare into makeup and creating my own, skin-like textures to really bond perfectly to the skin. More importantly, to create a glowy, second-skin effect. Smooth and plump skin Exfoliate once a week and use a really hydrating lightweight skin prep product before foundation, one that on some occasions for a more tinted glow, could be mixed into your foundation for a sheer skin veil. Save your dense, rich textured skin products for night use, or when not wearing makeup. Vitamin C is a known skin brightener and aim for serums that can add major glow/light reflecting formulas. Prime Use less mattifying, shine controlling primer under foundation, as this is not the trend focus. But if super oily, only apply on nose and inner front of cheeks. Opt instead for hydrating, illuminating primers to brighten the complexion, especially the outer areas of the face. Face Oil I have been using this little trick for a while. Dab 1-2 drops of oil onto the cheekbone area, before foundation application, as this guarantees major glow coming through foundation once applied. It creates a more realistic, less dense look to the overall makeup look. With no metallic properties in oil, it really does give that wet-look luminosity that dolphin skin is all about.
INFLUENCER
this new way of virtual face-to-face communication. But, I must say, I am all for this relaxed beauty, which focuses on skin and the way the light reflects on one’s face. It’s all about looking super fresh and more rested, with a little added defining makeup products to give lift and shape. It’s keeping things real – I am sure we can all relate to that! We all know phrases like luminous, dewy skin, and no-makeup makeup. Real beauty is not new to us - but more than ever skincare is now a makeup trend. Creating the best skin and finding the most ‘glow-giving’ canvas possible, so that makeup creates a lifted, plump and second-skin effect. Having worked over the years with very skin-focused cosmetic powerhouses, I’m super excited for this new trend. Makeup and skin are working together and becoming as one, like they should be. I, for one, can take up to 20 minutes for skin prep before applying makeup to any of my celeb clients for a big event or photoshoot. It’s for this reason that celebrities have flawless makeup, as it always needs that plump, smooth and hydrated base to work best, especially in long-wear scenarios.
blush. It really brings skin back to life with a natural flush of colour. If applying bronzer to give a little contour shade under cheekbone for face structure, always use first, then apply the cream blush after on the front apple of the cheeks for a ‘plump and lift’ and an easy blend into any shading applied. In this trend, the cream blush is the hero, not the shade tone. Cream blush is also a great product to apply to eyelids for a natural, radiant flush of colour, especially a peachy tone, either worn alone, or layered under shadow to lift the area.
Gloss We all know how much a little dab of lip gloss applied in the centre area of the lips can reflect light, brighten and plump the mouth. Shine = light and light = lift! To take the look even further, especially with the new craze of lip oils, dab a tiny amount on top of cheekbone to create a wetskin effect and use left-over excess on your fingertip to apply to eyelids to also attract a wet-shine, which will reflect light beautifully. As beauty advisors, consultants and makeup artists, it’s so important to keep up-to-date with beauty trends to share with your customers and clients, especially when they are very easy to achieve. With less artistry involved, like this year’s summer makeup trend is sure to be a winner. Trends are there as beauty guides and of course can be adapted to the skin types and concerns you are working with, but we all deserve some glow guidance. I hope to see many dolphins this summer, both in the flesh and on the water.
Liquid and Cream Textures Any powder base formula is a basic no-no for this trend. You want products to bond into skin to look ‘lit from within’ and not be sitting on top of the face which powders are known to do. Think liquid to cream, non-metallic, illuminators over powder base highlighters and apply to all high-points of the face to add radiant, concentrated dewy shine. If super oily, a very concentrated, small application of translucent powder can be applied in the T-zone, but keep to the bare minimum for maximum reflective shine. Cream Blush Blush has made a comeback in recent years and more recently it’s all about cream
By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au
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BRAND NEWS
1000 Hour Heated Eyelash Curler Iconic Australian DIY lash and brow brand 1000 Hour are thrilled to announce that their Heated Eyelash Curler is once again available in Australia. After taking a short hiatus the highly requested DIY beauty tool is making a comeback. The purse-sized heated eyelash curler features double heating elements to safely lift and curl lashes without crimping or breaking the strands. Tegan Martin, 1000 Hour Ambassador says, “Aside from the lash and brow dye kits, this product from 1000 Hour comes in a close second. It’s so easy to use and it really works. For me, it’s one of my beauty kit staples and the perfect size to take with me on trips – when we’re allowed!” www.1000hour.com.au
Sisley Paris Velvet Nourishing Body Cream with Saffron Flowers An ultra-sensorial and high-nutrition body cream that immediately soothes and repairs dry skin. The formula is rich in saffron flower extract, shea butter, babassu and macadamia oils to nourish, moisturize and restore soft-like-velvet skin day after day. The delicate, 100% naturally derived, fragrance with notes of honey and orange blossom combined with the enveloping texture makes this body cream a must have and the perfect addition to any well-being beauty routine. www.sisley.com.au
Genaissance de la Mer The Concentrated Night Balm The ultimate time-transcending Genaissance de la Mer collection now features the sumptuous, new The Concentrated Night Balm designed to transform skin during slumber. This silken, ampoulestrength treatment penetrates deeply, plumping the skin with healing hydration, helping the skin rebuild its collagen and elastin so skin feels firmer, strengthening the skin’s barrier and softening the look of fine lines, wrinkles, pores and age spots for a more ageless transformation night after night. Crafted to work while sleeping, The Concentrated Night Balm merges with skin penetrating it deeply and plumping it with healing hydration for a more visible, youthful awakening. www.cremedelamer.com.au
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Ecoya Summer Limited Edition Madison Jar – Spritz Drawing inspiration from the balmy days and golden twilight that comes with the warm change of season, Ecoya has welcomed two stirring new summer inspired fragrances, Spritz and Coral. Spritz is a warm blend of juicy bergamot, saffron and chamomile, with hints of coriander. White florals and creamy coconut are woven with vanilla bean and sandalwood for a sophisticated summery scent. The two new limited edition fragrances are available in both the Madison Jar and the Fragranced Diffuser. www.ecoya.com.au
Absolute Essential Celebrate Spritzer The aromatic equivalent of champagne, The Absolute Essential Celebrate Sprtizer is a fresh, uplifting spritzer with an aroma that pops and invigorates. Inspiration for the new Celebrate blend came from the brand’s 30th anniversary celebrations. All products are certified organic, vegan, sustainable and are made from artisan sourced therapeutic plant oils. www.absoluteessential.com
Christophe Robin Regenerating Serum with Prickly Pear Oil Joining the impressive Regenerating line in the Christophe Robin range is the Regenerating Serum with Prickly Pear Oil. The regenerating elixir, composed of 94 per cent natural-origin ingredients and free of silicones, leaves a mirror-like shine on the hair without using silicones. The powerful alliance of prickly pear oil, one of the richest plant sources of omegas and amino acids, and tucuma butter, derived from a precious fruit harvested in the Amazon and known to be highly concentrated in fatty acids and carotenoids, intensely nourishes hair without weighing it down. Colour-safe and free of parabens, silicones, oxidants, phthalates, mineral oils, and ammonia. www.mcmimports.com.au
24 Days Of Clinique Advent Calendar It truly is the most wonderful time of the year... especially when the beauty advent calendars start appearing. The 24 Days of Clinique Advent Calendar features all the cult Clinique products. It’s also great value, featuring almost $400 worth of product for only $175. Moisture Surge and Dramatically Different heroes included, plus makeup staples like blush, mascara and a Chubby stick to boot. www.clinique.com.au
Clarins Lip Comfort Oil Intense A cult product since its launch in 2015, Clarins Lip Comfort Oil now has a new version offering no-compromise lip care, colour and shine: Lip Comfort Oil Intense. Clarins innovates with eight new ultra-pigmented, mirror-effect shades. The formula is enriched with organic cranberry oil that reflects the light to give a truly mirror shine. The colours – intense burgundy, intense fuchsia, intense pink, intense rosewood, intense raspberry, intense plum, intense nude and intense red are both vibrant and radiant. www.clarins.com.au
KVD Vegan Beauty Shake Vegan Eyeshadow Primer An invisible liquid eyeshadow primer that is formulated for all finishes and skin tones, the KVD Vegan Beauty Shake Vegan Eyeshadow Primer unlocks maximum colour intensity, and extends eyeshadow wear. The bi-phase liquid – which uses a black colorant to help you remember to shake – increases vibrancy similar to a wet brush application giving a more opaque and high impact colour with a smooth finish. Do more with less by maximising any palette. www.sephora.com.au
MCoBeauty Super Smooth Facial & Brow Razor For those that have thought about Dermaplaning but are a little hesitant? Try Face Shaving first. Made from high quality stainless steel, the MCoBeauty Super Smooth Facial & Brow Razor comfortably removes unwanted facial hair with precision, leaving a smoother complexion. The curved handle and petite blade allow you to access the hard-to-reach contours of the face, leaving a flawless result. www.mcobeauty.com
Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics Mattetastic Lipsticks To coincide with the brand’s 28th birthday celebrations, Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics has launched three new Mattetastic Lipstick shades. Just like the existing luxurious Mattetastic range, the three new shades – Bette, Ginger and Greta – are inspired by Hollywood sirens of the silver screen. These extend the range to 10, alongside starlets: Rita, Ava, Marlene, Veronica, Grace, Lauren and Sophia. They provide comfortable, matte lip colours all day without creasing, drying, or puckering. These luxurious lipsticks combines long-lasting wear with hydration and velvety pigment for a glamorous lip statement. www.napoleonperdis.com
BRAND NEWS
Face Halo X Designed for maximum precision when it come to removing makeup, Face Halo X is made from specifically engineered contour knitted HaloTech fibres. This allows makeup removal from delicate areas and to touch up smudges with precision. Founder Lizzy Pike said it could replace cotton buds and cotton balls. “Face Halo X reaches into the delicate areas of the eye to gently remove their makeup – a precision makeup remover. It was also designed to be used as a makeup tool to fix up makeup mistakes such as lipstick, smudged mascara, makeup in the hair line or any other mishaps.” www.facehalo.com.au
Bioeffect EGF Serum Limited Edition Bioeffect was founded upon the invention of Barley EGF and its game-changing skincare benefits. Now, to celebrate its 10-year anniversary, Bioeffect has released the EGF Serum Limited Edition. The serum is three times the size and features double the EGF concentration in an exclusive bottle. The gorgeous bottle and sculpture was designed the acclaimed Icelandicborn, Brooklyn-based artist Shoplifter / Hrafnhildur Arnardottir, and reflects the unique characteristics of the EGF Serum, the black barley seeds and the Icelandic nature. www.bioeffect.com.au
SENSORI+ Detoxifying & Rejuvenating Skincare Ritual This Detoxifying & Rejuvenating Skincare Ritual from SENSORI+ is designed to eliminate pollution particles from skin’s surface, reset the skin’s natural metabolism and repair damage caused by environmental aggression. It contains Cleansing Oil, which features the brand’s exclusive ChlorosPURE® detoxifying formula that effectively eliminates more than 100 types of pollution particles, Serum-In-Oil to soothe micro inflammations and rebalance the skin’s microbiological environment, Eye Mousse to depuff and brighten the eye area with an innovative non-rubbing application, Cloud Cream for ultralightweight 18 hour-long hydration and Repair Ampoules for an intensive repair booster that fast-tracks skin cell renewal. More even skin tone, a smoother skin texture and a stronger skin barrier can be seen in just 21 days. www.sensoriplus.com/au
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INFLUENCER
Have you met... MADISON DRABBLE By Michelle Ruzzene
Madison’s dream from a young age was to be editor of fashion magazine Vogue. But after completing a degree in journalism and moving from Brisbane to Sydney, she soon realised that neither fashion nor journalism were her true passion. At the age of 25 she boldly resigned from her full-time (and well paid) job in fashion to take on a casual role as a beauty advisor at Sephora. The rest, as they say is history. TELL US ABOUT YOUR CURRENT ROLE AND RESPONSIBILITIES?
“As senior sales and education manager, and I oversee all of our Kendo Brands including Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, Ole Henriksen, KVD Vegan Beauty, Marc Jacobs Beauty and Bite Beauty in Australia and New Zealand. I often say it’s like having five children – managing five global beauty brands certainly requires a “can do” attitude. In fact, the word Kendo came from a play on the phrase ‘can do’. Kendo Brands are exclusive to Sephora in ANZ so my team and I work directly with our Sephora partners to ensure we remain at the forefront of the beauty landscape through innovating and delivering best in class education and training for our Sephora cast members.”
Madison Drabble, senior sales and education manager, Kendo Brands Aus and NZ.
with me. The quote said: ‘You are your own lottery ticket. Bet on yourself.’ I was fortunate that my parents always instilled in me a strong sense of self-belief. And it’s a message I like to empower to others, especially women. Bet on yourself. Believe you can. Create your own luck.” FAVE PLAYLIST OR PODCAST WHILE TRAVELLING?
“I’m much more of a book nerd! I always have a couple of books downloaded on my iPhone at any time so I can read them wherever I am. Usually one that provides inspiration or motivation and expands my thoughts about life, and one that focuses on health and wellbeing. Right now it’s Super Attractor by Gabrielle Bernstein and How Not To Die by Dr Michael Greger and Gene Stone.”
WHAT IS THE MOST REWARDING PART OF YOUR ROLE?
“The people! Working with my incredible team every day, and also our Sephora cast members – they are like our extended family. Seeing them grow and succeed, and being a part of that process, is the most rewarding part of my role as a manager. Also, as the first person to join the Kendo Brands business in ANZ back in 2016, it’s been incredibly fulfilling to see the business expand and be on that journey with a company I respect and believe in.” FAVOURITE TOWN WHEN TRAVELLING ON THE ROAD? WHY?
“I grew up in QLD so visiting family back on the Gold Coast, going to my favourite local coffee or brunch spots by the beach and shifting to a slower pace helps me stay grounded and reset. I used to travel every other month (pre-COVID) and one of my favourite places would have to be New York – the energy is unlike anywhere else.” WHAT IS YOUR LIFE MOTTO?
“Happiness comes from within. It sounds a little cliché, but no matter your job title, the amount of money you earn, the material possessions you own – at the end of the day happiness is internal. You will never be happy if you attribute it to attaining something. Happiness and health are the real successes of life.” BEST PIECE OR ADVICE YOU HAVE RECEIVED?
“I can’t remember where I saw it or heard it, but it’s always stuck 82| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SUMMER 2020
ADVICE FOR THOSE STARTING OUT IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?
“Don’t be afraid to take a backwards step if it means you’ll eventually take a greater step forward. Most of the time road blocks, u-turns or dead ends are there to redirect you and put you on your right path. Trust that process. And you are never too ‘big’ or ‘important’ for the dirty work. Starting in the trenches will create empathy as a leader – and a true leader works beside their team, not ahead of them.” HOW DO YOU REMAIN PASSIONATE ABOUT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?
“I’m such a big believer in the transformational power of beauty and self-care. People may think we just sell make-up and skincare – but it’s so much deeper than that. It’s not about the lipstick, but about a person feels when they wear it. And that’s why beauty has the ability to transform lives. How could you not be passionate about that?” IF YOU WEREN’T IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY, WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU?
“When you feel like you’ve found your true passion, it’s hard to think of anything else you’d want to do! I enjoy educating myself on health and plant-based living so maybe something in that field. But honestly, I feel like I’m exactly where I should be.”
© 2020 Estée Lauder Inc.
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