Retail Beauty 70 Summer 2021 by esprit Magazine Australia

70 SUMMER 2021

FRENCH POLISHED Interview with Naomi Shorman from NAOS

Your Own Devices At-Home Beauty Tools Sales Surge

A COVID CHRISTMAS BUT PLENTY TO CHEER ABOUT

Social Media Powerbrokers

BEAUTY INDUSTRY LESSONS FOR BRANDS

Minimum Effort, Maximum Results. New Hyper-Targeted Facial Serums. Advanced formulations that are gentle on skin, without compromising efficacy.

No Animal-Derived Ingredients. Cruelty-Free. No Parabens. No Sulphates. No Mineral Oil. No Added Fragrance.

www.skin physics.co skinphysics.com.au m

.au

EDITOR’S LETTER

The Social Dilemma

TikTok. Love it or hate it, you can’t ignore it. As an ‘Xennial’ ( I was born in 1981, on the cusp of when Gen X-ers and Millennials meet), I’m an avid user of earlier social media platforms, like Facebook and Instagram. But I’ve been slow to take up TikTok - with its lip-syncing, dancing and cat pawing, its content seemed to be for a younger audience. And I’m cautious about its data collection practices. TikTok seems geared towards the tweens and teens - my three nieces have accounts that have racked up literally millions of likes between them. It’s been reported that Generation Z is responsible for fueling the rise of TikTok with more than 60 per cent of the short-form video app users born after 1996. But in September, the short-form video app announced it had passed ONE BILLION monthly users. That’s 40 times the entire population of Australia. In 2021, it’s clear it’s not only tweens and teens on TikTok - you’re also as likely to see videos made by parents go viral as those of their kids. TikTok’s popularity soared during the pandemic, making it the most-downloaded app in the world in the first quarter of 2020 and in June of this year, Beijing-based ByteDance, the parent company of TikTok, was valued at $425 billion. It’s an incredible achievement for a platform that only launched in August, 2018, and it has left other apps scrambling to attempt to replicate TikTok’s phenomenal success - Instagram launched Reels, Snapchat unveiled Spotlight, and even YouTube debuted its YouTube Shorts in the US earlier this year. Social platforms help you connect with your customers, boost brand awareness, and increase your leads and sales. Which is why this issue, we have a strong focus on social media. Elisabeth King chats in-depth to 17 of the beauty majors, the up-and-comers, luxury and mass brands about their social media strategies for her feature ‘The Social Media Power brokers: Fueling the Continuing Democratisation of Beauty’. See what industry experts from L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, ModelCo, Dr Naomi Skin, Weleda and more had to say on page 40. A must-read for anyone

looking to hear from the beauty brands leading the pack when it comes to TikTok engagement and activity. Meanwhile, I sit down with the Head of Brand Partnerships, TikTok Global Business Solutions, to find out about #AdTok, a new B2B initiative that aims to demystify TikTok for marketers, page 48. Along with a spike in social media use, the Covid-19 pandemic has also seen a surge in sales of at-home beauty tools, such as hair removal, cleansing, LED therapy and photo rejuvenation, acne treatment and more. Elisabeth rounds up the major beauty trends of the year on page 12. With the festive season fast approaching, we highlight the ultimate gift packs that need to be stocked on your shelves in our Christmas gift guide, page 86. With summer poking its sunny head around the corner, we shoot the top seasonal makeup and skincare essentials on pages 59 and 68 respectively. We have loads more in our jam-packed 100-page edition including an interview with Naomi Shoram, Country Manager for NAOS in Australia on page 18, a chat with Lara Worthington, Swisse Brand Ambassador on page 60, an insight into the daily life of Ingrid Lovett, Communications Director at MaxMediaLab on page 70 and much, much more. This year, with states opening up and vaccination rates soaring, there seems to be plenty to cheer about. May the lead up to Christmas be the best time for you to ramp up driving sales and customers to your business. Read more about capitalising on a CovidChristmas from the Australian Retailers Association on page 26. We value each and every one of our readers and cannot express our gratitude enough for your ongoing support. We hope you have a beautiful Christmas and a Happy New Year. retail_beauty_ retail_beauty_ RetailBeautyMagazine retail-beauty

Meet Retail Beauty’s new National Advertising Manager, Cathryn Tout. Cathryn began her career at a very early age in pharmacy retail where her love of hair, health and beauty was born. Now, with over 20 years’ experience in the industry working across a range of organisations, from large international corporates through to small start-ups, her passion for business development, sales and marketing is unprecedented. Co-founding and building her own hair care business, she knows what it takes to bring a brand to life and the importance of strategic positioning, engagement and authentically connecting with a market audience. Contact Cathryn via email ctout@intermedia.com.au or phone on +61 (0) 416 350 742. 4| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

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RETAILBEAUTYMAGAZINE

SheaMoisture SheaMoisture is the legacy of Sofi Tucker, a pioneering mother of four and entrepreneur, who sold Shea Butter, African Black Soap and homemade beauty preparations in Sierra Leone in 1912. Today her vision is still honoured by continuing to formulate with raw shea butter handcrafted by women in Africa. With every purchase, consumers support the brand’s mission to re-invest back into its communities.

Contact details RETAIL BEAUTY Founder, Commercial & Creative Consultant Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: aferrari@intermedia.com.au Publisher Craig Hawtin-Butcher M: +61 (0)444 516 058 E: craig@intermedia.com.au Podcaster & Strategic Advisor Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nherrera@intermedia.com.au Editor Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 (0)402 277 286 E: mruzzene@intermedia.com.au National Advertising Manager Cathryn Tout M: +61 (0) 416 350 742 E: ctout@intermedia.com.au Art Director Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au Mailing Address RETAIL BEAUTY P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$. Articles that appear in Retail Beauty may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in Retail Beauty are not necessarily those of the publishers. Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of BHA Media 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583

@RETAIL_BEAUTY_

Previous issues 10 S heaMoisture Pays It Forward – Natural, Effective and Sustainable Fuels Double Digit Growth 12 Y our Own Devices – Sales of At-Home Beauty Tools Surge During Pandemic 18 F rench Polished – NAOS Launches Bespoke Skincare Brand Etat Pur to Join Bioderma 26 A Covid Christmas but Plenty to Cheer About – Australian Retailers Association Update 40 T he Social Media Powerbrokers – Fueling the Continuing Democratisation of Beauty 51 F ormulated by FERMIO. Fermented by Nature. Eight Page Special Feature. 59 S un and Games – Beach Bag Essentials for the Perfect Summer 60 5 Minutes with… Swisse Brand Ambassador Lara Worthington 62 O n the Streets of… Andrea Ferrari Chats with Girls on the Ground in London, NY and Poland 67 A Sunsible End to Lockdown? Staying Sun Sage with Sunscreens 68 H ere Comes the Sun – Bring on the Heat 70 M y Journey – Ingrid Lovett, Communications Director , MaxMediaLab

72 T he Origin of Ingredients – Nicci Herrera Visits Morocco to Witness Argan Oil Production 74 A ussie Made – David Willey, Growth Tank Founder and Director, on the Power of Events 76 T he Farmers Beauty Buyers Secret Product Picks 78 T ips from a PR Insider – Nikita Papas on Maximising Exposure for your Brand 80 O n the Road to Recovery – Clayton Ilolahia on the AttentionWorthy Fragrance Trends of 2021 82 S cent Master – Interview with Obvious Founder and Frapin Creative Director David Frossard 84 N iche Fragrance News – Ainslie Walker 86 J ingle Tills – The Ultimate Christmas Gift Guide 88 W hy Summery Eyes are on the Rise – Michael Brown’s Top Do’s and Don’ts 90 B reakup Makeup – Olivia Ferrari Shares Her Top Self-Care Products 92 H ave You Met… Nicole Pinky Thompson, Global MAC Cosmetics Senior Artist 94 Brand News 98 Brand Index

Environmental statement: The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody. PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.

Made for delicate skin.

wavobaby.com.au ww.avoba by.com.au

Contributors

OLIVIA FERRARI Olivia is an English-born medium, masseuse and yoga teacher. Olivia has a customised approach to each individual client’s mind and body wellness derived from learnings she has gained from her studies and experience in Cambodia, India, Byron Bay and Sydney.

Founder

Commercial & Creative Consultant ANDREA FERRARI

One of her proudest professional moments was winning Beauty Directory’s first-ever Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism in 2011 peer-voted recognition. Andrea founded Retail Beauty, formerly known as esprit Magazine Australia, in 2004 coming from a heritage of founding the original Esprit in the UK in 1987. Armed with a diploma in Fashion Journalism from the London College of Fashion, Andrea completed her journalism training on the job at IPC Business Press on the leading weekly trade magazine, Hairdressers Journal. In the late 70s, London’s print and fashion industries were both hotbeds of creativity and Andrea cut her teeth as a writer and interviewer in the company of accomplished mentors. Becoming editor of Beauty Counter, the UK pharmacy trade journal, she learned the power of the pharmacy assistant in the customer-to-purchase relationship. In 1987 Andrea fulfilled a gap in the UK market for a trade magazine for the retail beauty industry. Emigrating to Australia in 2003, she created esprit for the Australian market.

Associate Editor

Business Features

ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the bestselling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010.

CLAYTON ILOLAHIA Clayton works in communication and evaluation for Fragrances of the World where he assists industry guru Michael Edwards with the collection and evaluation of fragrance data from around the world. He is responsible for the communication of data insights and trends from the company’s award-winning database. Clayton has over 10 years’ experience in fragrance journalism, learning and development and luxury retail. He has completed numerous summer schools at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and has a passion for creative perfumery.

NIKITA PAPAS An established PR and Communications Director, Nikita Papas has garnered 15+ years of experience within the beauty, fashion, advertising, and publishing arenas. As an experienced Fashion, Beauty & Lifestyle Editor and Creative Director, Nikita understands how both media and consumers digest and share content, and the value of creating an addictive customer experience.

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments. 8| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014. Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com

MICHAEL BROWN Growing up as a dancer , Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of makeup artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as Marc Jacobs Beauty Ambassador.

BRANDEE MEIER Brandee began her photography career straight out of high school and has been shooting beauty products and fashion flatlays fore more than 20 years. Brandee has worked for a variety of brands on their advertising and product shoots including editorial work with Napoleon Perdis and Jane Iredale, is an expert at portraits and model shots, and has dabbled in numerous step-by-step make–up application shoots. www.brandeemeier.com.au

TOP TIPS FOR ON TREND LASHES & BROWS Brows are shaped but not structured and softly brushed up for a fluffy look. Lashes are shiny so eyes pop. GET THE LOOK – BROWS Tint brows using 1000HOUR Lash & Brow Dye Kit. Choose a shade closest to your brow colour. Add fluffiness with 1000HOUR Instant Brow gently applied against the direction of lash growth using short, upward strokes. GET THE LOOK – LASHES Tint lashes using 1000HOUR Lash & Brow Dye Kit in the shade Natural Black.

29.0001 - 10.2021

This will add definition and shine.

1000HOUR Ambassador Tegan Martin wears 1000HOUR Lash & Brow Dye (Dark Brown), and 1000HOUR Instant Brows (Medium Brown).

IOOOhour.com.au A CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL BRAND

SheaMoisture Pays It Forward - Natural, Effective and Sustainable Fuels Double Digit Growth by Elisabeth King Diversity is one of the most powerful mega-trends in today’s global cosmetic industry. SheaMoisture has been a pioneer of this fast-growing new majority market, but it’s highly efficacious soaps, lotions and hair products segued out of the “ethnic” sector years ago and have widespread appeal to women of all ages and demographics. Our heartland audience is melanin-rich women with curly and coily hair, but SheaMoisture is also very much a part of the clean beauty movement and our customers love its heritage, says Erica Galea, Marketing Director, Chemcorp International, the Brand distributor in Australia. Launched in Australia exclusively through Priceline in 2018, SheaMoisture’s success has led to wider distribution through Woolworths, independent pharmacy groups and major websites such as Lookfantastic and RY, Australia’s largest haircare and skincare online store. Priceline remains the lead partner for new innovation, says Galea. “The latest MAT figures to September for Priceline showcased a 12 per cent growth for SheaMoisture in the designer haircare sector. The only brand within the category that delivered growth over the period. Conditioning and treatments products were the standouts.”

doing business, and how they invest in creating a fairer world by overserving those who have been underserved. SheaMoisture invests proceeds from every purchase directly into their communities. Their educational and entrepreneurial programs are designed to create more inclusive and thriving societies from the United States to Africa. SheaMoisture products are also benefit-driven and formulated without harmful ingredients such as parabens, phthalates, mineral oil, petroleum, and formaldehyde. SheaMoisture is part of the portfolio of Sundial Brands, alongside Nubian Heritage and nyakio beauty. Sundial Brands was founded in 1991 by Richelieu Dennis, Nyema Tubman and Mary Dennis. In 2015, Sundial Brands was named in the Inc 5000 list of fastest-growing private companies in the U.S. and received the prestigious WWD/Beauty Inc award for Corporate Social Responsibility Company of the Year. Today, Sundial Brands is led by CEO, Cara Sabin, who is one of the few Black women CEOs in the beauty industry. Cara is passionate about keeping the entrepreneurial spirit and vision of SheaMoisture thriving so we can continue to serve the hair, skin and body needs of melanin-rich consumers.

GIVING BACK / UNIQUE HERITAGE / BENEFIT DRIVEN

ON-TREND TIMING / SHIFT AWAY FROM STRAIGHTENING

SheaMoisture ticks all the boxes for today’s sustainabilityminded consumers - effective, cruelty-free and blended with organic fair trade shea butter sourced from Ghana. The brand’s Community Commerce business model is a purpose-driven way of

Galea believes that SheaMoisture hit the Australian market at the right time. “The brand was well-established in its home market in the US and the UK, and already had an engaged and loyal market in Australia before it was widely available here. A major reason behind its growth and success over the past couple of years. Celebrating texture in all its variations, a lot of SheaMoisture’s success clearly shows that customers want to purchase brands with heart and soul.” Australian customers are engaged with the brand in terms of product feedback and aligning with campaigns, she adds. “They let us know when we get it right, and equally when we get it wrong and could be better. The continued explosion of social media across the generations, but particularly Millennials, has turned many of them into micro-influencers. Word of mouth has always been a powerful sales tool and this extends to sharing on social media when a product provides the solution it promises.” One of the most significant developments we have seen since SheaMoisture’s launch in Australia is a shift away from hair straightening, whether using tools or chemical process options as more women embraced their natural hair, says Galea. “A trend that has seen many more brands targeting the curly and textured hair category. With lockdowns during the pandemic and people spending more time at home, there has been a surge in education around looking after their hair. Similar to the way masks and serums have fueled growth in skincare, Australian consumers have learned there is more to caring for hair than a quick shampoo and condition.

Vika Mana, the inaugural winner of the SheaMoisture Australia 2021 #SheaChangemakers campaign, which highlighted some of the incredible local black and First Nations women who are making a difference in their lives and communities.

10| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

SheaMoisture’s Power Greens range.

Google Trend data has seen an increase in searches for terms including Curly Girl Method and curly hair products over the past few years. We think that embracing curly texture is here to stay.” COMPREHENSIVE RANGE / FIRST PURPOSE-FOCUSED CAMPAIGN / SCOPE FOR GROWTH

SheaMoisture’s key ranges include Jamaican Black Castor Oil, Coconut & Hibiscus, 100% Virgin Coconut Oil and Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil for hair and Raw Shea Butter and Africa Black Soap for body and skincare. It’s a comprehensive range and from a marketing perspective the brand has always followed the approach of getting products in people’s hands and hair to boost recommendation, says Galea. “In Australia, we work closely with a range of influencers and also support curly hair initiatives like the Love My Curls festival. SheaMoisture has also worked extensively with our lead partner Priceline to support the brand in-store and through their social and digital channels.” This year, SheaMoisture was also excited to debut a purposefocused campaign, which has always been a major part of its global strategy, says Galea. “The 2021 Shea Changemakers campaign called out to the Shea community to nominate women of colour making changes in their communities - whether through activism, social support, charity work or business activities. The response was overwhelming. The nominees were narrowed down to a list of finalists by a judging panel, including Chrissy Zemura, pioneering hairstylist and founder of Zemura Salon, and Perina Drummond, First Nations founder of Jira Models. The campaign was then put to a public vote. First place received a $3000 grant and the seven runners-up received a $1000 grant. We can’t wait for this campaign to grow as SheaMoisture enjoys further expansion in Australia.” SheaMoisture plays in the same space as OGX and Fudge and it’s been so well-received in Australia. “But it’s still a relatively new brand and has plenty of scope for further growth because it reinvests in the community and offers tangible products with functional and emotional benefits that today’s consumers are looking for.” www.sheamoisture.com.au www.chemcorp.com.au

Like many brands, SheaMoisture endured lingering manufacturing and supply chain issues in 2021. But three new releases are poised to debut in Priceline in the first quarter of 2022. • Papaya & Neroli All Day Frizz Control is a four SKU range. Frizz is one of the top three hair concerns for all hair types and these lightweight products are formulated for coily, curly and wavy hair. Papaya is rich in Vitamins C and A to condition and hydrate and the antioxidants in neroli smooth and tame frizz and flyaways. Papaya & Neroli Shampoo and Conditioner (both$19.99) are backed up by All day Frizz Control Milk Gel, a unique humidity-resistant formula that helps to prime the hair, and All Day Frizz Control Styling Gel to define and manage curls without crunchiness or flakiness (both $24.99). • S uperfoods have become a major go-to for skincare and supplements. SheaMoisture’s Power Greens range leaves hair up to seven times shinier. Moringa strengthens and coats weak hair strands for a fuller look and avocado keeps hair moisturised and supple. Also in the mix is the Power Greens Blend of moringa, kale and matcha tea for intense nourishment. The four SKUs are: Shampoo and Conditioner (both $19.99), Hair Tea Rinse, a low lather shampoo alternative for light wash days, and Reconstructor, an ultra-rich treatment which strengthens the hair and maximises hydration (both $24.99) • A n increasing number of consumers are seeking silicone-free products. SheaMoisture’s Silicone Free Miracle Styler and Masque are already firm favourites. To complete the collection, Miracle MultiBenefit Shampoo and Conditioner help to provide salon-quality results at home. Containing sugar cane extract, meadowfoam seed and marshmallow root, both are also colour-safe and priced at $19.99

COVER STORY

THREE EXCITING RELEASES FOR 2022

SheaMoisture’s Miracle Multi-Benefit Shampoo and Conditioner, pictured with the Papaya & Neroli All Day Frizz Control range. RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |11

Your Own DEVICES

12| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

by Elisabeth King

TREND REPORT

Sales of At-Home Beauty Tools Surge During Pandemic At-home beauty devices sparked a worldwide mega-boom a decade ago. Just as the electric toothbrush and high-tech hair straighteners radically transformed dental and haircare, cleansing brushes, light-based platforms and anti-ageing skincare devices offered almost professional standards of treatment in the comfort of consumers’ own homes. But the sector has had its fair share of ups and downs. While many women justified the high cost of some of the devices by calculating what they saved on salon visits and products, price resistance affected the category’s overall growth. Ten years ago, L’Oréal acquired Clarisonic, the US sonic cleansing brush brand, for example, and was forced to shutter it last year because it failed to live up to its growth potential. MAJOR BEAUTY TREND OF THE YEAR

The Covid-19 pandemic has turned around the fortunes of the at-home devices market. Spate, the US machine intelligence platform used by leading beauty multinationals such as L’Oréal, Estée Lauder and Unilever, pinpointed the accessories and beauty devices sector as one of the top four beauty search trends of 2020. Part of the reason, added Bustle, was the closure of dermatologists’ offices in major markets as consumers battled an upsurge in skin concerns such as acne and stress-induced ageing. Yet the consumer media group fingered skincare devices as one of the major beauty trends of the final quarter of this year, led by wands, at-home LED devices, microneedling and microdermabrasion to treat acne, pigmentation and boost collagen production. Other signs that the tide has again turned positive was seen at the 2021 CES event in Las Vegas in January, the world’s largest consumer electronics show. After bemoaning the fact that high-tech beauty and devices had not accelerated in the US, by contrast to China, in 2020, the organisers pushed this year’s innovations

The Clarisonic cleansing brush launched in 2004, was acquired by L’Oréal in 2011, but was discontinued in 2020.

into the spotlight from the Lumini PM (Personalised Mirror) to Perfect Corp’s Facial Ageing Simulation. TRIPLE DIGIT GROWTH / WIDE ACCEPTANCE

Mintel also confirmed that US attitudes to at-home devices had changed during the pandemic. According to the researcher, 75 per cent of American women are said to either already use or are interested in buying skincare devices. Nu Skin was voted the world’s number one brand for beauty devices by Euromonitor International for the fourth time this year. In September, the company reported triple-digit growth in the US, South America and EMEA (Europe, Middle East and Africa), thanks to major launches such as the Nu Skin ageLoc Lumispa. In the UK, the prestigious John Lewis department store chain launched its first virtual beauty tech department in August, featuring four devices that targeted skin RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |13

“Research And Markets, the world’s largest research store, defines the major categories as hair removal, cleansing, LED therapy and photorejuvenation, acne treatment, hair growth, oxygen/ facial, cellulite reduction and dermatology.”

problems - the Foreo Bear Facial Toning device, the BeGlow Tia All-in-One Sonic Skincare System, the MZ Skin LED Mask and the Dermaflash LUXE Anti-Aging Exfoliation tool. The sector is also growing in importance at international cosmetics shows. In-Cosmetics Global’s new Beauty Tech zone, initially scheduled to launch in 2020, will now debut next year in Paris at the cosmetic show’s iteration in April, bringing together major international suppliers, buyers and retailers to showcase their innovations. LEADING PLAYERS / FUTURE PREDICTIONS

The majority of growth in at-home devices may be in China, but the US remains the largest market with a 38 per cent global share, reveals Precision Reports. Europe 14| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

is the second largest market with a 26 per cent market share. In spite of an avalanche of competitors from all over the world and new names throwing their hats into the ring, the dominant companies in the sector are Procter & Gamble, Philips, Nu Skin, Conair, Panasonic, MTG, YA-MAN and Hitachi from Japan, Remington, Foreo, Skin Innovations, NuFace and Tria. Predictions vary wildly about the potential for the global growth of at-home devices over the next decade because a lot depends on what products are included in leading reports. Research And Markets, the world’s largest research store, defines the major categories as hair removal, cleansing, LED therapy and photo-rejuvenation, acne treatment, hair growth, oxygen/facial, cellulite reduction and dermatology. The major areas consumers are looking to treat are

01.

BEST OF RECENT LAUNCHES

At-home beauty devices are available from a wide variety of sales outlets in Australia from dedicated websites, major e-tailers, marketplaces, department and appliance stores and more. As summer approaches there is a lot of demand for hair removal appliances and there’s plenty up for grabs this season for those who want to sweep away unwanted hair. Like their professional counterparts, at-home products work by concentrating light energy to target hair follicles.

TREND REPORT

blemishes, pigmentation, wrinkles, fine lines and age spots, says the researcher, and global sales are expected to reach US$46 billion by 2030. Persistence Market Research is even more gung-ho about the strength of the market and predicts the category will hit worldwide sales of US$80 billion by 2031 - a CAGR of 15 per cent between now and the end of the forecast period. The data tracker also expects the US to remain the dominant market because of its large percentage of Gen Xers, Baby Boomers and the elderly and its leading edge in development and R&D. But Asia is on track to achieve the highest growth, led by China and India. During Alibaba’s 2019 Singles’ Day shopping event, five of the top 10 appliances sold were at-home beauty devices. Even though the sector is well-established in Japan and South Korea, the beauty powerhouses are expected to achieve growth rates of 19 per cent and 20.5 per cent, respectively over the next decade.

Remington offers some great models, including the i-Light Pro Face & Body and i-Light Compact Control IPL Hair Removal System. Philips is a world leader in the hair removal sector with the Lumea Prestige IPL Cordless and the Lumea Essential IPL LongTerm Hair Removal device. With its promise to deliver permanent hair reduction in as little as four weeks, the Braun Silk-Expert Pro 5 IPL has carved out a cult following. This year has been a standout for fans of anti-ageing devices. A top choice to treat double chins is the Tripollar STOP VX radio-frequency tool. The Nu Face Trinity uses microcurrents to tighten and firm the face. Tired complexions can be perked up with the Trophy Skin MiniMD. Eyes are rejuvenated with the Tria Anti-Defying Eye Wrinkle Correcting Laser and Foreo Iris Eye Massager. While those looking to treat age spots can reach for the Talika Pigment Control. Sales of cleansing devices have soared during the Covid-19 pandemic as consumers worldwide battled acne and congested skin. Mecca offers the PMD Beauty Clean Pro, which features SonicGlow technology and deep-cleanses skin using 7000 vibrations per minute. The Foreo Luna 2 Facial Spa Massager claims to remove 99.5 per cent of dirt and oil. And Conair keeps prices affordable with the True Glow 2-in-1 Facial Cleansing System sold through Target stores.

02.

01. Philips is a world leader in the hair removal sector with the Lumea Prestige IPL Cordless.

02. The Foreo Luna 2 Facial Spa Massager claims to remove 99.5 per cent of dirt and oil.

03. The Talika Pigment Control treats age spots.

04. At home LED therapy and photo-

rejuvenation devices are becoming more popular. Pictured is the Omnilux Contour Face. RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |15

SPONSORED

DermaGen Propolis Balm and Manuka Oil Balm Both of these balms relieve the symptoms of minor fungal infections, promotes healing of cold sores, pimples and acne and may also reduce scarring. They work as antiseptics, reduce inflammation and the antioxidants in these ingredients help support skin healing. These are great for more stubborn and inflamed spots, as the natural oils and waxes stay on the skin for longer, and help the ingredients work on the surface of the skin. SKIN PROBLEM TWO: SUN DAMAGED SKIN

Soaking up the sun’s rays When people get a tan, that golden layer is actually damage to the top layer of the skin. Soaking up the sun’s rays (UVA and UVB) speeds up the skin ageing and raises the risk of developing skin cancer. UV light damages fibres in the skin called elastin and collagen. Over time, too much sun exposure can cause wrinkles, age spots, scaly patches (actinic keratosis) and skin cancer. UV radiation also suppresses the immune system so it’s important to take steps to support the immune system. Who is at risk for skin cancer? Anyone can get skin cancer, however the risk is greatest in people who have fair or freckled skin that burns easily. People with darker skin are also susceptible to all types of skin cancer, although their risk is lower. Aside from complexion, other risk factors include having a family history of skin cancer, working outdoors, and living in a sunny climate like Australia. RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS

DermaGen Skin Radiance Lotion This natural moisturising lotion has everything to treat red, inflamed, dry, or itchy skin. It even has Aloe to calm the skin, and Shea Butter to add some natural fatty acids so skin feels hydrated and nourished. It was formulated as a light, fast absorbing moisturising lotion for skin with acne, pimples, eczema or dermatitis, or sun-damaged skin. This lotion contains antioxidants and has a mild, fresh scent of Manuka Oil. Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) helps to improve the appearance of pigment spots and hydrates the surface of dry skin by nourishing the skin barrier, promoting the production of ceramides and collagen which strengthens the skin barrier and reduces the amount of water loss through evaporation, keeping it hydrated. Vitamin B3 is beneficial for healthy skin as it provides the cells with energy to repair itself, especially after exposure to the damaging effects of the sun’s UV-radiation. Manuka Oil minimises the bacteria that causes acne and pimples. It has been used for centuries by the Maori tribe in New Zealand for its healing and medicinal properties. It is soothing and calming for skin that is inflamed and red. Green Tea Extract contains anti-oxidants which help with supporting skin healing and rejuvenation. Evening Primrose Oil is a natural source of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) and helps to soothe skin.

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Both of these balms are anti-septic, reducing the risk of bacterial infection and scarring by supporting the skin healing and regeneration process, and keeping skin hydrated for longer by creating a barrier over broken or intact skin. DermaGen Active 8 Serum This is a beautiful blend of 8 thoughtfully selected oils chosen specifically for its composition and expected skin benefits. This serum contains oils known for its for calming properties, soothing the appearance of redness and hydrating the surface of dry skin due to photo-ageing or sundamage. It is suitable for skin with mild pimples or acne breakouts, eczema, dermatitis or sun-damaged skin. It has an uplifting, fresh, herbaceous scent, and is a light-weight serum, absorbing easily into the skin without clogging pores. A few drops on the skin is enough to hydrate, soothe and rejuvenate the skin. For more information visit www.dermagen.net.au

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RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |17

FRENCH POLISHED NAOS LAUNCHES BESPOKE SKINCARE BRAND ETAT PUR TO JOIN BIODERMA

by Elisabeth King Bioderma needs little introduction. Available in Australia since 2013, the French brand is perceived as experts in the booming global dermocosmetics sector, with products catering to all skin types and conditions. Supported by 33,000 dermatologists worldwide, Bioderma is recommended by pharmacies and used by makeup artists in more than 80 countries. It has also built up an elite celebrity fan base, including Gwyneth Paltrow, Margot Robbie, Victoria Beckham, Lara Stone and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. But Bioderma is not a standalone brand. It is one of three leading pillars of NAOS, one of the largest independent French beauty companies, alongside the Etat Pur and Institut Esthederm brands. Founded by visionary pharmacist and biologist, JeanNoel Thorel, the company’s main approach to skincare adheres to the belief that the skin is an ever-evolving eco-system and should be treated correctly to function properly by reinforcing its natural mechanisms. The first Bioderma and Institut Esthederm products were launched in the late 1970s, but the brands were merged into a cohesive company called NAOS in 2016, together with Etat Pur. Today, NAOS has opened more than 40 affiliates around the world and its products are sold in 130 countries.

Shorman has a strong background in the beauty industry for building successful brands and businesses in Australia and the UK. Over the past 10 years, she has held senior executive positions at L’Oréal Australia, Unilever and Kao. “Because the Australian office is so new, I regard the business as a startup and our team is committed and passionate about growing our brands in Australia. NAOS has long-term ambitions in the Australian market to invest and gain trust and credibility with consumers, retailers and the medical community.” NAOS and Bioderma, in particular, have an amazing history says Shorman. “The brand’s world-first micellar cleansing water, Sensibio H2O, is a cult product and one bottle is sold every single second worldwide. Almost one million Australians suffer from some level of eczema and one in three children are sufferers and acne is a widespread problem. We focus strongly on our key Bioderma ranges: Sensibio for sensitive and reactive skin, Sebium for oily, RAPID EXPANSION / STORIED acne or blemish-prone skin, Atoderm for SKINCARE HISTORY those with dry skin and eczema, Cicabio NAOS is going through rapid expansion, for repair and Hydrabio for hydration.” says Naomi Shorman, Country Manager Covid-19 has affected all our lives, for NAOS in Australia. “We including how the skin saw that Australian consumers is reacting to the new had a high spend on beauty environment and the increased and skincare because of the wearing of masks, which has widespread prevalence of skin led to a surge in blemish-prone conditions such as eczema and dehydrated skin, adds and sensitivity. Even though Shorman. “One of our most Bioderma is available through exciting recent launches is a distributor, we decided to Bioderma Sensibio Defensive set up an Australian office in Active Soothing Cream. Naomi Shorman, Country Melbourne in March 2020.” Manager for NAOS in Australia. Formulated for sensitive and 18| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

sensitised skin, it contains our patented defensive technology, which includes antioxidants and Vitamin E. The formula soothes the skin whilst also strengthening its natural defenses and breaking the cycle that aggravates the skin. “We have launched a new campaign for Sebium Actif Foaming Gel Cleanser, a unique formula suitable for acne and blemish-prone skin, which incorporates a combination of glycolic and salicylic acid to provide a deep cleanse. Targeted at acne

PROFILE

breakouts, the formulation also contains a mild surfactant which ensures the skin’s barrier is protected”. ETAT PUR - PERSONALISED SKINCARE AT AFFORDABLE PRICES

The biggest initiative of the year for NAOS was the launch of its Etat Pur, French for Pure State, brand in October. First launched in 2011, the brand’ s mission is to provide skincare formulas which have minimal, scientifically-proven ingredients that can be personalised to provide whatever the skin needs at affordable prices. Etat Pur is a market disrupter, prioritising product development and focusing on online sales, says Shorman. “ In the Australian market, we debuted on Lookfantastic and RY.com.au, Australia’s largest haircare and skincare online store. We are also in discussions with other major e-tailers.” We are also working with Script Skincare, founded by Professor Greg Goodman, the internationally renowned dermatologist, she adds. “It’s a great alignment for Etat Pur because of our shared values”. Australia is one of only eight international markets to launch Etat Pur, which also has vegan and clean credentials. NAOS describes the brand’s products as new generation skincare and its products are in perfect affinity with the skin for better tolerability and absorption. From over 30,000 ingredients traditionally used in the wider dermocosmetic market, the brand uses only 300 which are compatible with its purity, quality, safety and traceability principles. SCIENCE-BACKED, TARGETED SOLUTIONS WITH ECO-BIOLOGY PRINCIPLES

Our formulas work and can be trusted because they are thoroughly researched and developed according to eco-biology principles, says Shorman. “There are two main ranges - Biomimetic Skincare and Pure Actives. The Biomimetic lineup is the first complete skincare range designed to perfectly mimic the skin, cleansing and moisturising while preserving the skin’s natural resources. Bestsellers include the Purifying Cleansing Gel for combination skin, Moisturising Eye Contour Fluid and Melting Moisturising Cream, which provides intense and long-lasting hydration”.

NAOS - AHEAD OF ITS TIME

• N AOS was founded by Jean-Noel Thorel, a visionary French pharmacist and biologist. • In 1977, he founded CEREDAP (Centre d Etudes et de Recherche en Esthetique et Dermatologie Appliquee), a research centre where he created the first Bioderma product. • A year later, he debuted Institut Esthederm, the highly acclaimed anti-ageing and suncare brand. • Following the invention of a revolutionary micellar water technology, Bioderma launched its world-first micellar cleansing water - Sensibio H2O - in 1995 • In 2001, the company opened its first affiliate outside France in Italy and today operates 40 worldwide. • NAOS officially came into being in 2016, following the merger of the Bioderma, Etat Pur and Institut Esthederm brands. Today, it is one of the leading independent French beauty companies.

Etat Pur’s Pure Actives range offers personalised, targeted solutions selected to correct major skin issues such as wrinkles, loss of firmness, hyper-sensitivity, dehydration and blemishes. They are used on clean skin before moisturising and allow consumers to customise their skincare routines, says Shorman. “Consumers can go online, tap into their skin condition or problem and the right product is ‘prescribed’ for them. Each results-driven product offers dermatologically-approved and an optimal dose of ingredients.” The Salicylic Acid 2% Pure Active, for example, is an extremely effective treatment for blemishes and blackheads. Citric Acid AHA Pure Active helps to promote radiance. While Hyaluronic Acid Pure Active helps to reduce fine lines and hydrate the skin. Once a consumer has personalised their skincare routine online in three easy steps, says Shorman, they achieve an effective treatment to provide the skin with what it needs. “ Nothing more. Nothing Less.” We want to engage Etat Pur consumers on their buying journey through personalisation, continuous customer feedback and exciting new products in the months to come, says Shorman. “Our business model not only builds brand loyalty and client advocacy, it also drives repeat purchases. Our laser focus on personalisation builds customer profiles

on skin type, environment, lifestyle and preferences to deliver bespoke care at affordable prices ranging from $22 to $52.” The core belief of NAOS is that when the skin suffers, in addition to treating concerns, it should be taught to live according to its natural biology. With over 50 patents and new discoveries, we are able to position ourselves as one of the leading experts in dermo-cosmetics through all our brands - Bioderma, Etat Pur and Institut Esthederm - says Shorman. “All of our products are backed by science and we are 100 per cent transparent about what goes into our products. Consumers of all ages are looking for prevention over cure products and minimalism to keep their skin as healthy and balanced as possible. That’s what we provide with maximum benefits.” For further information, go to www. etatpur.com.au, www.bioderma.com.au and www.ask-naos.com.au. RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |19

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The staff at Cyplex, Warriewood in Sydney.

The Display Experts Alex Doidge, General Manager - Sales & Marketing at Cyplex shares with Retail Beauty how brands can best stand out in store and what a brand needs to consider when creating a display. If there is one thing Alex Doidge is enthusiastic about, it’s retail displays. Editor Michelle Ruzzene caught up with Alex while he was checking the installation of Cyplex’s latest beauty gondola in the Mecca Flagship store in Sydney. Perusing the store floor, his knowledge about the brands, the retailers, and the displays themselves was instantly apparent. He said Cyplex always worked closely with a brand to design a display that could be best updated, modified or seasonally adapted to promote new campaigns and products. “My first job was creating the planograms for Max Factor while working in a design studio in the UK,” he said. Looking at the hundreds of brands in 24| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

If anything, retail has become more important than ever as consumers look for engaging real-world experience to balance the sterility of the online experience.

Mecca, Alex pointed out why some displays looked and functioned vastly differently. “These shelves look amazing, but if the brand changes a product, this whole area has to be replaced,” he said. “We try and create modular systems that are not only less expensive to update but allow the brand to easily create areas to promote new products and highlight trends.” Having worked with mass market and luxury brands all over the world, Alex came to Australia in 2017 and quickly realised that the local market was unique and distinct when compared to the rest of the Asia zone. “The marketplace is changing all over the world,” he said. ”E-commerce and retail are finding a symbiotic existence, despite reports forecasting that retail would die. If anything, retail has become more important than ever as consumers look for engaging real-world experience to balance the sterility of the online experience.” Alex said Australian retail was a unique mix, unlike anywhere else in the world.

“Pharmacies, department stores and Sephora and Mecca all have completely different requirements,” he said. “I realised they needed local design and manufacture to be able to react quickly to changes in the marketplace.” When Alex met Brian Burman, owner of Sydney retail design and manufacturer Cyplex, they both agreed that there was a gap in the market for a health and beauty specialist who could create innovative designs and locally manufacture the display. “Brian’s company had all of the print ad production machinery and know-how under one roof,” Alex said. Alex began working for Cyplex in December 2019. “It was an easy decision,” Alex said. Since moving to Cyplex, the team has engaged with brands to make some of the most compelling point of sale display in the market, all with a focus on Australian-made for the Australian market. Alex said one of the key factors in designing effective displays was understanding consumer behaviour. “Before we start any design, we sit down with the brand and discuss the retail environment, the competition and the consumer,” Alex said. “At somewhere like Mecca, the products are inviting you to test and play with them – it is essentially a playground for people looking for beauty. Compare that to a pharmacy. Most people go into a pharmacy knowing what they need and their display usually has to be self-maintaining as they don’t have anyone looking after them. That’s when you can see push-feed systems, to automatically push the product to the front with ease as there is no staff to maintain the display.” Alex explained that Cyplex uses a methodology known as 30/10/3 to describe the shopper’s journey. “By putting ourselves in the shoes of the shopper, we can create features which are more likely to make a brand stand out or to get a specific message across,” he said. “Good design does not need to be expensive - It needs to solve a problem.” Sustainability is always at the forefront of a custom Cyplex display. “Sustainability in display has been something that we have been working towards for years, even if it has only recently come onto the brands’ agendas,” Alex said.

RETAIL

“Understanding consumer behaviour is the key to designing effective displays. Alex Doidge, General Manager Sales & Marketing at Cyplex.

FAST FACTS Business locations: Sydney and Melbourne People employed: 45 Services: Design, prototyping, manufacture, installation Website: cyplexaustralia.com.au

“Eliminating waste and making a longlasting, adaptable display has been at the heart of our methodology for a long time. Not only does it save money, but it also allows a brand to adapt easily to changes in the market without replacing the whole display. Other angles, such as biodegradable materials have been a longrunning passion project, and we have some incredible innovations to share.” What does the future hold for Cyplex? “Our strategy is to provide both permanent and promotional services to

help health and beauty brands and retailers adapt to changing consumer habits and expectations,” Alex said. “We have been developing software and digital solutions which blend seamlessly with physical display systems to bridge the online/offline gap. Testing new systems and ideas to provide a better consumer experience is essential as we look for new ways to engage with shoppers. Luckily, we have the brand partners who are willing to go on the innovation journey with us.” RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |25

A Covid Christmas, but plenty to cheer about By Fleur Brown, Chief Industry Affairs Officer at the Australian Retailers Association

After a horror year for many retailers, there are signs of life returning to normal - with states opening-up, vaccination rates soaring and retailers aiming to cash-in on pent-up demand during the Christmas shopping rush. Christmas is a critical trading period – a time when many retailers make up to twothirds of their profits for the year. After snap lockdowns, supply chain delays and endless Covid disruptions, this year retailers are also looking to make up for some of the lost trade incurred in recent months. Fortunately, the signs are positive for this all-important time of year – consumer sentiment is upbeat, and people are excited to be back out shopping, spending time with family and friends and enjoying the warmer weather. We’re forecasting Australians will spend nearly $59 billion in the pre-Christmas 26| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

Fleur Brown, Chief Industry Affairs Officer at the Australian Retailers Association.

sales period, which is in line with last year’s spend, but well up on pre-pandemic conditions. The overall trend is looking positive and that’s good news for small businesses and retailers in the fashion and personal accessory categories that have been most significantly impacted by the recent round of lockdowns. Retailers have been incredible at adapting and adhering to the government requirements so they can continue to trade in a Covid-safe way. Nevertheless, one of the great frustrations throughout the pandemic has been the inconsistent

FEATURE

approaches from the states and territories. There has been little consistency around what triggers a lockdown or a reopening, or how we define ‘essential retail’, and we’re seeing this again with the different state roadmaps and requirements for vaccinations. For retailers with a national footprint, it’s incredibly challenging to navigate the different state-based requirements as staff and operations are impacted in different ways. That’s why we are continuing to talk to State, Federal and Territory governments about the importance of an aligned approach to any remaining Covid protocols as we move into recovery. For Christmas this year, shopping early has never been more important. Supply chains are under incredible pressure and there’s a myriad of issues at play here that are creating the perfect storm for retailers and consumers. Online sales have surged in recent months and are likely to remain elevated over the Christmas period, despite the return of physical shopping options. On top of the record amount of online purchases, some distribution centres and warehouses have been impacted by reduced staffing levels due to Covid cases, we’ve had industrial disputes from delivery drivers and port workers, while state border controls and limited domestic flights are also impacting the movement of goods. At a global level, retailers are reporting that the capping of incoming flights has put significant pressure on shipping, and we are seeing container costs escalating up to four times their usual rate. With all these issues at play, planning ahead and shopping early is key to avoid disappointment. Looking ahead to 2022 and beyond, we need to be mindful that we’ll be living with Covid for some time. Vaccinations are

our immediate end game, but things like health, safety and hygiene will still be important factors and part of the day to day running of business. The recovery is likely to be uneven as well, and not all sectors of the economy will bounce back as quick as others. CBD retailers, and small businesses in particular, will continue to be impacted. Whilst we are likely to see a gradual ramp up with the return of international students and tourists, spending in CBD locations could still be subdued compared to pre-pandemic levels and not all businesses will be thriving at the levels they once were. The ‘working from home’ trend is continuing so there won’t be the usual numbers of city office workers out and about, shopping on their lunch breaks or grabbing dinner and drinks in the CBD after work. There’s no doubt the pandemic has accelerated a number of retail trends and has highlighted just how important it is for retailers to have an omnichannel strategy so they can cater for customers whichever way they interact with their business – through a mobile phone, computer or in-store. Consumers are now expecting retailers to ‘meet them where they are’ – and the businesses that have made the investments in digital to meet the changing needs of customers are on the right path to success. Pleasingly, all the indications are that the worst of the pandemic is behind us - states are reopening, borders are coming down and we’re now learning to live with the virus. Retailers are upbeat and are looking to capitalise on a post-Covid spending boom into 2022 and beyond. www.retail.org.au

RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |27

INDUSTRY NEWS

IL MAKIAGE INVESTS US$40 MILLION IN HYPERSPECTRAL IMAGING

Il Makiage, the fastest-growing makeup brand in the US, debuted online in Australia is June. With more than 25 million users and five million customers, Il Makiage has doubled its business over the past three years. By the end of the year, revenues are expected to reach US$250 million. Oran Holtzman, CEO of Il Makiage, has always believed in investing in advanced technology, product formulas and e-commerce customer experience. The company’s first major tech acquisition - NeoWize in 2019 - allowed Il Makiage to develop its shade-matching algorithm, PowerMatch, which closely predicts foundation choices using 50 shades. The fast-growing brand has now acquired Voyage81 for US$40 million to expand its existing AI portfolio and up the ante for its first entry into the wellness category. Voyage81 is an AI computer vision startup which uses a physics-based algorithm to convert images taken with a camera or smartphone to a higher resolution to allow in-depth analysis of skin and hair. According to Dr Boaz Arad, the co-founder and chief technology officer of Voyage81, the company’s software can detect facial blood flows and map out melanin and haemoglobin content of the skin based on a selfie. “This is a game-changer for beauty and wellness overall”, he adds.

“Hyperspectral vision is even more generalisable because a single hyperspectral image can provide more information that hundreds, or even thousands, of conventional RGB images”. Il Makiage is gearing up for the launch of two standalone brands, starting with a wellness product by the end of the year. According to Holtzman, the company’s broader strategy was to launch a new standalone every 18 months and it is already working on a third contender.

AUSSIE STARTUP TBH SKINCARE DEBUTS $800,000EQUITY CROWDFUND WITH EQUITISE

Beauty brands worldwide have been hunting for funding, capital and investment to expand their reach in the hyper-competitive cosmetic and wellness categories for some time. Few areas of skincare have expanded more rapidly than the acne sector during the Covid-19 pandemic. Stress, anxiety and maskwearing have triggered breakouts, not only in teenagers and people in their 20s but also in older consumers aged in their 30s and 40s. According to Grand View Research, the global anti-acne market was worth US$2.37 billion in 2020 and is expected to reach US$2.5 billion by the end of this year. The researcher predicts that worldwide sales will double to US$4.7 billion by 2028. Rachael Tyers, a 25-year-old acne sufferer, co-founded tbh Skincare in March last year. The digital native brand was an immediate success and over the past 16 months has achieved revenues of $800,000 and fulfilled more than 10,000 orders. Tyers reveals that her start-up venture was spurred by “a serendipitous encounter while working in the medical devices industry”. But the brand’s science-backed products incorporating a proprietary bio-film technology, dynamic image and packaging and supportive online community take most of the credit for tbh Skincare’s cut-through in a category dominated by multinationals. The brand has three core products - Acne Hack Cream, Skin Shady 50+ sunscreen and Gentle Cleanser - which are sold individually or in bundle packs. To fast-track further domestic growth 28| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

and establish an overseas presence, tbh Skincare has teamed with Equitise, Australia’s industry leader in equity crowd funding, to raise $800,000. We are now well-positioned for our next stage of growth, says Tyers. “We have multiple new product launches planned and will focus on continued expansion in Australia and then to international markets. This partnership with Equitise could not be more perfectly timed.” Straddling the line between dermocosmetics, one of the fastest growing skincare categories, and pharmaceutical grade anti-acne products, tbh Skincare is allowing even small investors to get in on the ground floor. Currently, the company has a waitlist of 500 for its investment offer and other interested parties can register their interest from this week. For further details, go to: www.equitise.com and look for tbh Skincare under current offers. Then click register interest and enter your name and email address. According to Jack Hammett, Equitise Head of Investments - “At Equitise, we are seeing increasing numbers of fast-growing, digitallynative brands looking to raise capital, but few have their market covered quite like tbh does.” As a customer-centric brand, it was fitting to offer our existing customers - those who love the product and joined our community - the chance to become even more a part of the tbh Skincare family as co-owners in the business, says Tyers. “For as little as $250, individuals can buy shares in tbh Skincare and share our future success.”

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INDUSTRY NEWS

GLOBAL MEN’S GROOMING MARKET TO REACH US$55.5 BILLION OVER NEXT 10 YEARS

There was plenty of talk of men by-passing their daily shaving routines and cutting back on using grooming products during the first phase of the Covid-19 crisis last year. But there has been a turnaround over the first half of this year, reports Persistence Market Research. The global men’s grooming market enjoyed a 6.4 per cent surge in sales as major markets in Asia, North America and Europe emerged from lockdown restrictions. The data tracker is even more bullish in its predictions going forward and estimates that the worldwide men’s grooming market will enjoy an 8 per cent compound annual growth rate over the next decade to reach revenues of US$55.5 billion by 2030. In spite of sales growth in Asia, the US remains the number one men’s grooming market in the world, as it has always been, with sales rising to US$14 billion. Shaving continues to be the dominant sector in men’s grooming globally with a 42.3 per cent market share. China is key to further growth in East Asia, with sales of men’s grooming products expected to surge by 9.2 per cent over the next 10 years, says Persistence Market Research. While South Asia accounts for a 9.4 per cent share of the global market with a third of sales coming from India. Men have long appreciated value when it comes to grooming and most prefer reasonably-priced brands, says the researcher. Even with the soaring growth rate, value-based brands will continue to account for the lion’s share of global sales - 53.3 per cent - through to 2031. Online sales will continue to rise and there will be increased demand for natural and organic products, concludes Persistence Market Research. Australia is very much to the fore to meet a global upsurge in demand in key overseas markets with locally-made men’s grooming, hair care and skincare products. Well-known Australian brands include Grown Alchemist, Natio for Men, Patricks, Klim, Milkman Grooming, Charles + Lee, Black Leopard, Hunter Lab and Vitaman.

30| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

THE EXPLOSIVE GLOBAL GROWTH OF BEAUTY SALES OVER THE PAST 20 YEARS

Many business reports and articles on the growth of the global beauty industry target individual sectors or centre on predictions. WWD, the US fashion trade journal dubbed the “Bible of Fashion”, launched its spin-off Beauty Inc as WWD Beauty Biz in 2000, and has built a similar level of credibility for tracking the cosmetics industry through Image: @instagram/wwd. its much-awaited annual list of the World’s Top 100 beauty companies. Over the past 20 years, the rise of China, Japan and South Korea as beauty superpowers has had an enormous impact on the growth of the world’s major beauty players. But the same five multinationals have held their positions at the top of the rankings over the past two decades with only a little movement up or down. The only giant that has held the same position - number one - since 2000 is L’Oréal as its global revenues have nearly tripled. The US has also retained its position as the number one single beauty market in the world over the past 20 years. The combined sales of the world’s top 100 beauty companies in 2000 totalled US$93 billion. In 2020, that figure ballooned to US$212.59 billion. In 2000, L’Oréal posted worldwide sales of US$11.99 billion across 23 brands. After numerous acquisitions, the French multinational now has 35 brands and global sales of US$31.95 billion. Procter & Gamble held second position 20 years ago with sales of US$8.8 billion across 19 brands. The multinational sold off a huge tranche of brands of brands a few years ago, but still claims fourth place in the global beauty rankings with sales of US$14 billion. Unilever, which has also been on a corporate buying spree of prestige brands such as Dermalogica, ranked third in 2000 with sales of US$6.39 billion across 22 brands. The multinational has moved up a slot to second place with sales of US$22.17 billion with a stable of 31 brands. The spectacular growth of The Estée Lauder Companies since 2000 has also hinged on acquiring cult beauty brands such as Too Faced and Dr Jart and entering the mass market again with Deciem, the maker of The Ordinary. In 2000, the company ranked fifth with sales of US$4.6 billion across 16 brands. Last year, the multinational posted global sales of US$14.2 billion from 34 brands and scored a number three ranking. Shiseido has recently been selling off brands such as Laura Mercier and BareMinerals to focus on its core prestige skincare business. The Japanese giant ranked fourth in 2000 with sales of US$4.65 billion across 27 brands. In 2020, it slipped to fifth place with sales of US$8.39 billion from 26 brands. The US still represents the lion’s share of the world’s top 100 beauty companies - 30 in total - reports Beauty Inc. France comes in second with 14, followed by Japan with 12 and Germany/the UK/Switzerland and China with four.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Natura & Co (the owner of Avon International and Aesop), Unilever and Henkel (the maker of Schwarzkopf) have teamed up to form a consortium to co-develop an industry-wide environmental assessment and scoring system for cosmetics. It’s not an exclusive tie-up and all other cosmetic companies worldwide will be able to join the initiative and help to design a “brand agnostic” system of assessing and scoring environmental impact through science-based methodologies. The founding multinationals will pool their expertise to focus on four major principles - a common method of measuring environmental impacts throughout the product cycle, a common data base of environmental impacts for standard ingredients and raw materials, a common tool to calculate environmental impact per product and a harmonising scoring system that provides easy comparisons for consumers. Of critical importance to the success of the project is the fact that statements and findings will be examined by independent assessors - not just by the beauty companies themselves. External scientists, academics and NGOs will be consulted at every level to ensure the integrity of all processes. Nicolas Hieronimus, the CEO of L’Oréal, says that consumers worldwide now expect full transparency from brands and companies. The five majors want to on-board as many beauty and cosmetic companies as possible to develop a gold standard global system that consumers can rely on. The invitation is open to all cosmetics companies worldwide, including Australian brands, trade associations and other interested parties. For further information, email: contact@ecobeautyscoreconsortium.org.

FIVE BEAUTY TITANS UNITE TO DEVELOP INDUSTRY-WIDE TRANSPARENT ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT SYSTEM

Hardly a week goes by without a clutch of brands releasing a new sustainability or environmental strategy, product or development. The problem with individual brand or company statements is that they run the risk of being so-called echo communication. Consumers have little idea of what each brand is actually contributing to sustainability and overall protection of the environment. To achieve maximum cut-through and transparency, five of the biggest players in the global beauty industry - L’Oréal, LVMH (the owner of Sephora and Parfums Christian Dior), Brazilian giant

ESTÉE LAUDER TO PHASE OUT ARAMIS & DESIGNER FRAGRANCES DIVISION

The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) has built up a revamped luxury fragrance profile over the past decade through the acquisition of major and niche brands, including Tom Ford Beauty, Jo Malone London, Le Labo, Kilian Paris and Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. The multinational has announced the gradual phasing out of its Aramis & Designer Fragrances division over the next two years. The Donna Karan and DKNY franchises will move to Inter Parfums, while Michael Kors has signed an agreement with Euroitalia, the Italy-based multinational and maker of Versace fragrances. Aramis, the iconic men’s fragrance launched in 1963, still enjoys multi-million dollar sales and will shift to another Lauder division. The fragrance license for US designer Tory Burch moved to Shiseido last year and the Tommy Hilfiger and Ermenegildo Zegna licenses will look for a new “home” between now and 2023. In a statement, ELC revealed that “it is committed to ensuring that it is focused on investing its resources into the most strategic long-term growth opportunities and value creation globally”. In addition to its existing luxury and successful Aerin fragrance brands, Estée Lauder is also going back to the future. The company launched its first Private Collection perfumes in 1973. Over 30 years later, the founder’s grandaughter Aerin updated the lineup with a new spin in select distribution. Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia debuted in 2007. A lush floral, it was followed over the next two years by Amber Ylang Ylang and Jasmine Moss. The latter two have been discontinued but Tuberose Gardenia has built up a cult following in Australia and the US.

ELC is launching the Estée Lauder Luxury Fragrance Collection in the run-up to Christmas, starting this month. The eight juices incorporate the company’s exclusive ScentCaptive technology which provides a lengthy 12 hours of wear. Housed in a heavy, faceted glass bottle with a gold cap and detailing, each fragrance will feature a plaque representing its hero note. There’s a strong aromatherapy theme in the lineup up - Tender Light (positivity and joy), Sensuous Stars (calm and happiness), Dream Dusk (cheerfulness), Radiant Mirage (positivity and optimism), Desert Eden (confidence and energy), Blushing Sands (relaxation and sensuousness), Paradise Moon (happiness and confidence) and Infinite Sky (confidence and sensuality). RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |31

INDUSTRY NEWS

FRANCIS KURKDJIAN APPOINTED NEW PERFUME CREATION DIRECTOR FOR DIOR

The Covid-19 pandemic has been an up-and-down ride for fragrance. With major markets experiencing a slump, many of the world’s leading fragrance makers are tilting their hats towards China. Traditionally, China has been a small market by contrast to the size of its population but the tide is turning. Mintel estimates that fragrance sales in China reached US$1.2 billion in 2020. The future looks even brighter, with sales expected to achieve annual growth of 17 per cent to reach US$2.39 billion by 2025, says the data tracker. Dior, Chanel, YSL and Giorgio Armani are top-of-mind for Chinese fans of designer fragrances. Miss Dior, for example, has been a bestseller for many years. Parfums Christian Dior appointed Francois Demachy, one of the world’s great noses, as its in-house perfumer 15 years ago. A first for the prestige fashion house. Demachy is now retiring after a glittering career at Dior, which has included the creation of Sauvage, one of the world’s best-selling men’s prestige fragrance, and the re-tweaking of women’s global hits - J’adore and Miss Dior. Dior has appointed Francis Kurdjian as its new Perfume Creation Director. A titan of the fragrance world, he needs little introduction. In 1995, at the age of 26, he exploded onto the world’s fragrance scene with Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier - still a blockbuster juice. Kurkdjian has also created many other top-selling fragrances for a who’s who of famous brands, including Lancôme. Giorgio Armani, Elizabeth Arden, Versace, YSL, Guerlain and Elie Saab. In 2009, he founded his own luxury fragrance house, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, which is sold in 300 locations worldwide, including Mecca, and has become a powerhouse niche brand. LVMH bought a majority stake in Maison Francis Kurkdjian in 2017. The world’s largest luxury goods group also owns

Parfums Christian Dior and Kurkdjian will continue to helm his namesake brand. The new appointment heralds a new era for Dior as major fragrance markets return to growth and China presents increased opportunity. But Kurkdjian is no stranger to Dior. In 2004, he created Cologne Blanche and Eau Noire for the company. The latter remains part of Dior’s exclusive Collection Privée.

PACIFIC FAIR WINS QUEENSLAND’S RETAIL PROPERTY OF THE YEAR 2021

For lovers of major beauty, fashion and luxury brands, Pacific Fair is an irresistible magnet. Filling a 16.6 hectare site on the Gold Coast, next to The Star casino and the Broadbeach retail and conference precinct, the $1.8 billion mall is as much a landmark for locals and vistors as the Ala Moana Center in Hawaii.

32| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

Pacific Fair has won the top gong in the annual Property Council of Australia’s Queensland Retail Awards as the state’s Retail Property of the Year 2021. A prestigious honour judged on design, marketing, centre management and innovation criteria. Opened in 1977, the sprawling indoor/outdoor complex has undergone seven major re-developments. The last one in 2016 to take advantage of the increased popularity of the Gold Coast with international tourists. Pacific Fair boasts 400 stores and its luxury fashion credentials are impeccable, thanks to international brands including Bulgari, Christian Louboutin, Givenchy, Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo and Tiffany. The centre’s beauty rollcall is equally impressive from Myer and David Jones to Chanel Fragrance & Beauty, Aesop, Kiehl’s, Ella Bache, Jurlique, L’Occitane, Mecca Cosmetica and Mecca Maxima, Sephora, Priceline and The Body Shop. Beauty services such as skincare clinics, nail salons and more are also a major drawcard. The judging panel reached a unanimous decision in awarding the honour, underlining Pacific Fair’s leading role as a community centre and its contribution to Queensland’s overall economy. The property also took out three other major awards - Excellence in Centre Management, Retail Innovation and Excellence in Marketing for Properties over 35,000 square metres.

YEAR-TO-DATE REVENUES FOR LVMH SURGE TO $69 BILLION

LVMH reported revenues of 15.5 billion euros (AUD$24.24 billion) for its third fiscal quarter. A result that exceeded analysts’ expectations and pushed the performance of the world’s largest luxury goods group to 44.2 billion euros (AUD$69.15 billion) for the first nine months of the year. A rise of 46 per cent by contrast to the same period in 2020. Asia accounted for 38 per cent of overall revenues, followed by the US with a 25 per cent share of sales. Fashion and leather goods are the multinational’s number one cash cow and organic growth from January to September rose 57 per cent to 21.3 billion euros (AUD$33.32 billion). The company’s Perfumes and Cosmetics division also performed strongly with an upsurge of 30 per cent in the first nine months of the year to 4.66 billion euros (AUD$7.29 billion). Parfums Christian Dior delivered powerhouse growth, underpinned by global sales of Miss Dior eau de parfum and Sauvage Elixir. The popularity of Dior’s Collection Privee and Capture Totale skincare also boosted the bottom line. Guerlain was another success story, fuelled by the Abeille Royale and Orchidee Imperiale skincare franchises. Maison Francis Kurkdjian also kicked goals over the period with the debut of the Aqua Cologne Forte range and continued demand for Baccarat Rouge 540, the unisex floral created for the 250th anniversary of the iconic French crystal maker. Sephora is the jewel of LVMH’s Selective Retailing division. The speciality beauty chain returned to its 2019 revenue level as online sales soared in major regional markets. Sephora’s ongoing growth was also driven by the debut of its first concept stores in Kohl’s department stores in the US, the partnership with online heavyweight Zalando in Europe and the acquisition of Feelunique in the UK. With the world opening up again, LVMH is upbeat about a rebound in travel retail. The DFS Group, the world’s leading travel retailer, is a subsidiary of the multinational and operates 420 duty-free locations in airports, downtown stores and select resort destinations globally. DFS has three locations in Australia and New Zealand in Sydney, Cairns and Auckland. In February, the company announced it would open a T Galleria store at Queen’s Wharf in Brisbane, scheduled to launch in late 2022.

INDUSTRY NEWS

SCENTRE GROUP DEBUTS WESTFIELD DIRECT SERVICE

With e-commerce sales expected to continue to soar even after state lockdowns are lifted, the Australian Retailers Association (ARA) predicts that 48 per cent of Christmas shopping will take place online this year. Scentre Group, which operates 37 Westfield Living Centres nationwide, is firmly promoting omnichannel shopping. Late last week the shopping centre giant debuted Westfield Direct, with more than 100 key retailers and brands on-board from the start. The service was trialed last year and allows consumers to purchase from multiple businesses, brands and retailers in one online transaction at any of its Westfield centres. Once an order is placed, customers can choose home delivery or Click-and-Collect from designated Westfield Direct service desks at their local centre. Members of the Westfield Plus loyalty program will access reward credits on their Click-and-Collect orders and other major benefits as incentives to visit their local Westfield complex. Westfield Living Centres are crucial to the Australian beauty industry because of their high number of leading retailers and brands in the sector, including Myer, David Jones, Mecca Maxima, Sephora, L’Occitane, Priceline, Jurlique, The Body Shop, Aesop and more. Phil McAveety, Scentre Group Chief Consumer and Business Development Manager. Phil McAveety, Scentre Group Chief Consumer and Business Development Manager, points out that every Westfield Living Centre is now a Westfield Direct distribution hub. “Westfield Direct offers more convenience, flexibility and choice for our customers to shop Westfield, any time, anywhere – still with the human connection they value. “Westfield Direct provides our business partners with the opportunity to increase the productivity of their physical store networks, whilst alleviating the time-intensive and costly process of fulfilling and delivering orders.” Westfield Direct also presents a significant growth opportunity for our SME retail partners, many of whom only have one or two physical stores and no online presence, he noted. “We’re looking forward to supporting them through this transition and introducing them to new Westfield customers, particularly in the run-up to Christmas.”

RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |33

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End of an Era David Blakeley, recently retired Managing Director of Chanel Australia & New Zealand, has held the position of Chairman of Cancer Patients Foundation and Look Good Feel Better for the past 17 years. In his time as Chairman, David has seen the charity grow its capacity to help Australians undergoing treatment for cancer in leaps and bounds, backed by the generous support of the cosmetic industry. Retail Beauty catches up with the industry icon for an exclusive interview. HOW DID YOU FIRST BECOME INVOLVED WITH LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER?

When Look Good Feel Better commenced in Australia in 1990 I was working at Estée Lauder Corporation as General Manager, Estée Lauder. My initial involvement with the charity was through attending the annual Dream Ball events with the Lauder team, and when I moved to Chanel in 2001, I became more of an advocate of the program. I promoted the charity internally to the Chanel team, and we showed our support to the program through product donations, fundraising, and purchasing tables at Dream Ball. In 2004 I was asked by Graeme Howard, Managing Director at Revlon and Penny Thompson, Managing Director at Estée Lauder to join the Board of the Cancer Patients Foundation. That same year, I commenced in the position of Chairman and have held tenure ever since. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE CHARITY’S BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENTS AND MILESTONES OVER YOUR TIME AS CHAIRMAN?

I’m proud to say there are many, but the first that springs to mind is the appointment of Kerri-Anne Kennerley as Patron in 2009 36| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

after many years of trying to find a high-profile patron. KerriAnne’s relationship with the charity over the past 12 years has had a significant impact on attracting awareness and funding, so having her on board has been quite the achievement. Our initial Dream Week all those years ago, when we first got Myer and David Jones on board to contribute $1 from each lipstick sale, was also a fantastic achievement. We had incredible support and presence in both stores – “competing” retailers, might I note - and through Pitt Street Mall, with information booths and Look Good Feel Better merchandise stalls. The relationship with both retailers is still going strong to this day, 12 years later. Operationally, several years ago the board agreed to move from a “cottage industry” structure to a “business” mentality, which allowed us to invest in more people in specialised roles. The team is still a small one, but this more strategic approach has really allowed us to focus on growing the impact the charity can achieve through securing more funding, improving the profile, and streamlining the operational processes. In line with this, the charity became “free-standing” and moved into its own premises in 2018. This was certainly a huge milestone in the charity’s history and again, has improved its ability to help cancer patients across the country.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FONDEST MEMORIES OF WORKING WITH THE CHARITY?

INTERVIEW

And in terms of the service offering, in 2012 we implemented the Home-Delivered Confidence Kit service - the second offering in the Look Good Feel Better program. This service continues today and allows cancer patients who are unable to attend a Look Good Feel Better workshop for health, travel or personal reasons to receive the benefits of the program from the comfort of their home. And of course, last year, we launched Virtual Workshops in response to the pandemic - 12 months ahead of schedule, might I add. This was the fourth service offering in the Look Good Feel Better program and has already helped 2,000 cancer patients in just over 18 months.

WHAT ARE YOUR HOPES FOR THE LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER PROGRAM INTO THE FUTURE?

Firstly, that the industry continues to support the charity and the important work it is doing. There are so many opportunities in terms of stock donation, financial support and awareness building and I hope the charity continues to stay top of mind, and the industry continues to be enablers for the cause. Secondly, that the program continues to grow and adapt as it has over the past 31 years, with the steadfast vision of becoming an integral part of cancer care, supporting all Australians undergoing any type of treatment for any type of cancer. The team is continually looking at ways to offer the highest level of access, quality, and a sense of community and with the right support, the program will continue to deliver in leaps and bounds.

Working on the Dream Ball in the “old days” was good fun. Uri Ferster, Executive Chairman at Frostbland, headed up the committee and Garth Phillips from Wedding Designs coordinated the Dream Ball, pro bono. We had outstanding input from the cosmetic companies and cosmetic industry suppliers and the “Dream Team” prize committee had us all working hard to secure the auction and Tree of Dreams prizes for the event. It became quite the competition to see who could have the biggest and best wins – all in the name of charity, of course! And completing my first Dry July in 2016 and raising funds for Look Good Feel Better is n, men and another great memory. It was a tough month but more than 150,000 wome Feel Better has helpedosis with confidence. Since 1990, Look Good cancer diagn across Australia face their teens lipsticks and I managed to raise over $18,000 for the charity of moisturiser, 298,000 the help of 15,000 litres We’ve done this withfound ation. 9,000 kilograms of which I was incredibly proud of, and I couldn’t assion, and understanding. done this with care, comp But more importantly, we’ve Help Australian -Delivered s face cancer l Workshops and Home have done it without the support of many in the with confidence o-Face workshops, Virtua ent. this September We proudly offer Face-t undergoing cancer treatm te and empower those Confidence Kits to educa Show your sup industry. It was a true testament to people’s belief lgfb.org.au. visit , more out por find t to throughout Fee am or confidence-bo l Better Month To participate in the progr osting program to help us provide to all Australians cancer. our in the cause. undergoing trea tment

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WHAT IMPACT HAS LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER HAD ON BRINGING THE INDUSTRY TOGETHER?

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Initially under the old Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association - the industry body that existed prior to ACCORD Australasia - the Managing Directors of the leading Cosmetic & Toiletry companies met regularly to discuss common industry issues. The Look Good Feel Better program became a regular part of the discussion at these meetings and there was great industry camaraderie in those early days. This flowed into supporting Look Good Feel Better in a more official capacity, as it was deemed to be the “industry charity of choice”. In 2006 ACCORD Australasia took over as the representative body for the Cosmetic Industry in Australia and the relationship between the industry and Look Good Feel Better remains strong as a result. The cooperative support of those who are otherwise “competitors” in the industry plays an important role in ensuring funding and product donations for the Look Good Feel Better program, in turn helping to support the thousands of cancer patients who benefit from the program each year. The annual Dream Ball has also been a fantastic mechanism for bringing the industry together over the past 30 years. The Ball is a real occasion and probably the one chance each year where we can catch up with old colleagues and industry friends. Dream Ball has also always brought retail partners and cosmetic companies together. With the Balls attended by all of the department store and pharmacy senior management, for one night the competition ceases and everyone truly works together for a common cause.

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Did you know? • L ook Good Feel Better relies on the support of 800 volunteers to deliver the program, Australia-wide. • Each year, 84,000 products totalling around $2 million in value are donated by the industry for the program’s Confidence Kits. • 1,000 face-to-face and 200 virtual workshops are run annually for the benefit of any Australian undergoing treatment for any type of cancer. • Over 150,000 cancer patients have participated in the program since it commenced. • The charity has welcomed 14,500 guests from the industry at the annual Dream Ball over the years, helping to raise vital funds for the continuation of the program. • 108 companies support the charity through various means – and new friends are always welcome! For more information or to show your support visit lgfb.org.au or phone 1800 650 960. And don’t forget to follow on socials - @LGFBAustralia.

RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |37

INDUSTRY NEWS

Brett Blundy

LEADING INVESTORS ACQUIRE STAKE IN OZ HAIR & BEAUTY

Brett Blundy can spot a winner. The AFR Rich Lister co-founded Sanity Entertainment and launched Bras N Things and Lovisa Jewellery during his 40 year corporate career. Together with Daniel Agostinelli and other major investors in the Edison Growth Fund, the billionaire has acquired a significant stake in Oz Hair & Beauty.

Agostinelli has invested in a private capacity, but co-founded Sanity Entertainment with Blundy and is the CEO of the Accent Group. The company specialises in on-trend footwear and has over 500 stores across Australia and New Zealand, selling 19 brands including Merrell, Saucony, HYPE, Skechers and Stylerunner. Oz Hair & Beauty was founded in 2012 by Anthony Nappa and his brother Guy joined the company in 2017. Their father Elio founded the Oz Hair salon network in 1986, centred by its flagship location in Sydney’s QVB. Oz Hair & Beauty has a current turnover of $40 million from online sales – a surge of 68 per cent in the year to June 30. The e-tailer saw sales soar by 250 per cent when skincare was added to the previously hair-focused site. Oz Hair & Beauty offers a large rollcall of mainstream and niche brands, including Olaplex, Eau Thermale Avène, Boost Lab, St Tropez, SheaMoisture, Redken, and Innisfree. Online haircare sales have boomed during the Covid-19 pandemic and there’s still plenty of room for growth. Currently, online sales account for 11 per cent of the Australian haircare market, by contrast to 18 per cent in the US. This latest investment will help to scale up Oz Hair & Beauty. Major plans going forward include the enhancement of the current e-commerce platform and offering more brands and categories. The company currently has one bricks-and-mortar store in Sydney and will roll-out more physical stores next year. But the major focus of the business will remain online sales.

CHINA’S MAKEUP MARKET TO REACH US$8.9 BILLION

Most Australian brands targeting expansion in China have pinned their hopes on skincare with good reason. The category accounts for close to 60 per cent of Chinese beauty sales. But the makeup sector is one of the fastest-growing categories, surging by 258 per cent in 2019, reports Cosmetics China, the number one agency focused on beauty and cosmetics in China. According to the latest report from GlobalData - China Makeup - Market Assessment and Forecasts to 2025 - the Chinese makeup market is predicted to grow from US$5.9 billion in 2020 to US$8.9 billion by 2025. Face makeup is the key driver, followed by eye makeup, with growth rates of 9.2 per cent and 7.9 per cent, respectively. E-tailers, including online giants Alibaba and JD.com, are the leading distribution channel for makeup in China, with a value market share of 36.7 per cent in 2020, followed by department stores (22.5%) and hypermarkets (13.8%), reveals GlobalData. The top three companies in the Chinese makeup market by value in 2020 were L’Oréal, LVMH (Sephora, Christain Dior, Benefit Cosmetics, Givenchy) and Korea’s AmorePacific (Laneige, Innisfree, Mamonde, Etude House). Leaders in the masstige market included the L’Oréal Paris and Maybelline brands. The beauty and personal care business in China is seeing a surge in demand for higher-quality, luxury, high-end brands as a result of rapid urbanisation, rising disposable income and social media exposure, notes Sukanyashri Kabali, consumer analyst at GlobalData. “Social media and influencers also play a key role in the growth of local brands. For instance, Chando, an online cosmetics and skincare brand, partnered with video sharing platform Bilibili, with 38| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

an average monthly user base of 223.3 million in Q1 2021, and is expected to reach 400 million users by 2023 and ranks fifth in the beauty category on JD.com.” Kabali highlights Chinese consumers’ growing affection towards traditional Chinese style and culture as fuelling the rise in makeup sales. “Domestic brands such as Florasis are launching products using traditional Chinese recipes and ingredients, such as herbal extracts and floral essences, with a focus on heritage. For example, the company’s 2020 launch of Floral Dewy In-Porcelain lipstick was inspired by the ancient Chinese porcelain arts and culture.”

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The Social Media Powerbrokers

Fueling the Continuing Democratisation of Beauty

by Elisabeth King The power of social media over the past decade has revolutionised the global beauty market. More so during the Covid-19 pandemic, which saw millions of consumers worldwide increase the time they spent on digital channels. Not only have the major platforms - Facebook, Instagram and YouTube - springboarded the rise of indie brands, they have also allowed companies of all sizes to reach out directly to consumers worldwide. 40| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

It’s a two-way street. Consumers have always had a voice through expressing their buying preferences. But now they have a vote on the types of products they are looking for and where they want to buy them - online or at specialty and legacy retailers. More recently, TikTok, the videosharing social networking service, has revved up the reach of social media, especially to younger consumers. Retail

Beauty talks to the majors, the up-andcomers, luxury and mass brands about their social media strategies. NEW FRONTIER OF SOCIAL SELLING/ INTEGRAL TO MARKETING STRATEGY

When it comes to the beauty industry, I believe social media is everything, says Mariko Rex, Brand General Manager, Estée Lauder and La Mer. “In an era where consumers are extremely savvy

and immune to traditional advertising, social media has allowed us to re-connect with consumers in a more engaging, educational and meaningful way. Beauty is an emotional proposition and social media platforms such as Instagram and TikTok allow consumers to express themselves in a visually attractive way using beauty products. This not only drives awareness for a brand, but can create the desire to instantly purchase your products through authentic content. I believe that social media will continue to play a critical role for marketing beauty products, shifting from an awareness play to becoming the new frontier of social selling. TikTok is a great platform that has enabled beauty brands to reach younger audiences in a highly engaging manner, she says. “As it is motion-based, we can amplify educational content and beauty reviews in a refreshing way through the power of content creators. It is important to stay true to the platform and avoid self-imposed branded content, allowing creators to do their magic so that engagement and brand love will follow.” Social media is an integral part of our marketing strategy at ModelCo and MCoBeauty, says Shelley Sullivan, Founder and CEO. “We’ve seen amazing

Shelley Sullivan, FOUNDER AND CEO, MODELCO AND MCOBEAUTY

brand growth, both with our DTC e-commerce business on mcobeauty.com and with our retail partners, Woolworths and Big W.” Beauty is blowing up on TikTok and it’s an amazing platform for brand awareness, she says. “We launched our first major MCoBeauty TikTok campaign recently. A product can instantly go viral and result in a complete global sell-out. It’s also a huge driver of trends, so our product development team use TikTok a lot as a research tool for new products. The only negative with the platform is that users cannot shop directly from the app like Instagram, but the success many brands have had tells us that’s clearly not a barrier to conversion.”

Celeste Barber for MCoBeauty.

Influencers are a key part of our marketing strategy and we have seen huge success with our model, adds Sullivan. “In February, popular comedian Celeste Barber became an ambassador for us”, she says. “She has over eight million followers on Instagram and has proved to be an incredible brand representative. People want to see what products look like on a regular person, rather than a model. We see the most success when Celeste films herself casually chatting to her followers while applying her skincare and makeup in her bathroom. Her IGTVs have been viewed more than three million times each. In the first week after Celeste came on board, we brought 1.5 million new customers into Woolworths stores. She sold out our XtendLash mascara, purely from her Instagram account.” Sullivan believes that because social media is so visual, it’s the perfect medium to showcase the transformative power of beauty. “Even with our ModelCo tan, people want to see a great beforeand-after where you can really see the amazing uber-dark bronzing effect of our tanning formulas.” INTERACTING IN REAL TIME/ INCREASED CONNECTION

Social media has become even more important over the past couple of years, as more consumers join social channels and content has become more sophisticated, says Fiona Scrymgeour, Chief Marketing Officer, Total Beauty Network, parent company of DB Cosmetics, Raww and Inika. “More

Fiona Scrymgeour, CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER,TOTAL BEAUTY NETWORK’S DB COSMETICS, RAWW AND INIKA

importantly, social media gives brands the opportunity to interact more directly and in real time with their consumers. We know that a large proportion of consumers use social channels to research brands and products prior to purchasing, so we view social media as an important step in the purchase cycle for all TBN brands.” TikTok is absolutely on our radar but we

TALKING POINT

Mariko Rex, BRAND GENERAL MANAGER, ESTÉE LAUDER AND LA MER

have chosen a watch and observe approach for now, she says. “Given our audience is comprised more of older Millennials and Gen Xers, we are keen to ensure anything we do meets the expectations of a more mature audience and is not just entertaining but educational. TikTok requires specific video content, and consumers are increasingly savvy about what they choose to view. So it’s very important to get it right rather than merely tick the TikTok box.” We invest heavily in social media as an important marketing pillar for all of our brands, she adds. “We always have plenty of brand news, with new products launching on a regular basis which gives us lots to talk about. Retailers play a very important role in amplifying brand messages and we help them as much as possible through social media - sharing great imagery and content for them to re-post, highlighting in-store promotions, tagging retailers and localising content for their specific customer base.” For Jurlique, our social media platform is really a place to connect with our community, says Stacey Trinh, General Manager ANZ. “It’s also a place for

Stacey Trinh, GENERAL MANAGER ANZ, JURLIQUE

us to form stronger and more personal bonds with our customers and bring to life the various elements of the brand in the unique Jurlique way. We are looking into ways we can activate the brand on TikTok in Australia, to ensure we are connecting with both current and future customers. We want to ensure our messages feel organic to the platform and are looking at TikTok trends like #WakeupWithMe that lend themselves perfectly to our skincare offering.” We use our social platforms to engage with customers, not only about how to use our products but also the ingredients in each product that are grown and handharvested on the Jurlique farm in South Australia, she notes. “Our brand is evolving and the look and feel is changing. On Instagram, for example, we are showing a more bold and vibrant side to the brand from harvesting the botanicals to educating our followers on the right product for their skincare needs and explaining our unique biodynamic farming techniques. During RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |41

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Covid lockdowns we increased our ‘how-to’ content to use our products at home, with tips and tricks from our beauty experts. We introduced activities such as the morning yoga class, for example, as a way to promote our seed to skin journey.” A MARKETING MUST/ ATTRACTING NEW CUSTOMERS

Social media is a must for marketing beauty products, says Craig Schweighoffer, Founder and Managing Director of Boost Lab skincare. “Consumers are hungry for

Craig Schweighoffer, FOUNDER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR OF BOOST LAB SKINCARE

easily accessible information on products - not only from brands but from other consumers. Without meaningful social media and relevant and on-going content, a brand doesn’t have the credentials to operate in their space and probably won’t exist for long.” Being active on TikTok is an important channel for Boost Lab, he says. “It is unique to other social media channels and is also more organic and real. The advanced TikTok algorithms are more targeted and relevant. If you put sales aside, then brand success on social media is really about two things. First is follower growth and second is engagement. Boost Lab has been actively growing both and over the past 12 months since our launch, we have grown our Instagram follower base from zero to 60,000. As far as influencers are concerned, we don’t do one-hit placements. This approach doesn’t stack up anymore. Our use of influencers is more of a partnership. Our influencers have to love the brand and product and are more brand advocates than traditional influencers.” Social media has become a critical platform in selling beauty products, says Nick Smart, Founder and Director of Agence de Parfum, Australia’s leading

Nick Smart, FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR OF AGENCE DE PARFUM

niche perfume and home fragrance distribution company. “The huge sphere of influence and discussion platforms on 42| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

social media fundamentally gives products an active voice in the marketplace. Consumers are now well educated, thanks to these platforms, and rely on ratings, group discussions and education on new launches. Brand credibility is ultimately enhanced, which allows consumers to become one with the brand, building loyalty and repeat sales.” Our social media engagements have tripled year-on-year since late 2019, he says. “The number of subscribers has increased accordingly, giving rise to new platforms and speaking with our clients. Brands with an established platform such as Creed Parfums, for example, perform extraordinarily well through social media. Consumers know the brand, its reputation for exclusive fragrances and its 300-year tradition of perfumery.” Social media is a critically important channel for beauty for many reasons, says Jennifer Zanelli, Head of Global Digital for Nude by Nature. “Even

Jennifer Zanelli, HEAD OF GLOBAL DIGITAL FOR NUDE BY NATURE

before the pandemic and lockdowns, beauty consumers spent hours each day on social media platforms, which makes them crucial for attracting new customers and retaining advocacy with your existing following. Social media followers seek authentic and real content and are quick to call out anything they feel is disingenuous. For this reason, it is incredibly important to work with content creators who possess similar values and have a natural affinity with the brand. Engagement is also essential for a brand to leverage and further enhance its strategies. It is the only channel where you are able to tap into and respond to real and genuine sentiment, which can often shape future campaigns.” We continuously work with a wide range of macro and micro influencers spanning various lifestyle interests, she adds. “This allows us to layer different perspectives and interpretations which really resonate with our audience.” PERSONALISATION/ STAYING RELEVANT

Social media has become a pivotal factor in the way we communicate with our audience, says Emilie Roberson, Embryolisse Marketing Development Manager. “It helps to deliver the essence of a brand and the ability to

Emilie Robersoni, EMBRYOLISSE MARKETING DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

communicate more than just ‘how to use each product’ or the ingredients list. Brands have gone from simply selling products to promoting skincare regimes, makeup looks, tips and tricks.” Social media also allows the brand itself to connect on a more personable level, she says. “Brands used to focus on a B2B approach and let retailers interact with the end-consumers. This has dramatically changed with social media, where a brand is always available through direct messaging, likes and comments exchanged daily with its audience. Through social media a brand is able to instantly adapt its communication to cover or support a given event or tweak a campaign, which takes longer to achieve at a B2B/store level.” With multiple social media platforms, brands are able to tailor the communication of products based on individual preferences, she adds. “Consumers are spoiled for choice, but TikTok offers immediate information about the ins and outs of a brand. It also offers a real opportunity for consumers to visually experience a product - from its texture to the end result on the skin - all within a minute of the viewer’s time.” People really love seeing skincare routines through a short video format, says Roberson. “Instagram Reels that can also be shared on TikTok work best. They are short yet entertaining and scroll-worthy. IGTV works really well for educational videos with KOLs such as dermatologists, brand ambassadors or makeup artists to provide inside knowledge and tutorials. We have also concentrated on Facebook over the past few months as a media channel to share blogs, articles and more.” Glam by Manicare’s young target market is already very active on TikTok, says Lara Losic, Senior Brand Manager, Glam by Manicare and Lady Jayne.

Lara Losic, SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, GLAM BY MANICARE AND LADY JAYNE

“According to research, 60 per cent of TikTok users in Australia are females and 70 per cent are Gen Z or Alphas. For a brand with a young target demographic, it

AUTHENTICITY NON-NEGOTIABLE/ TWO-WAY RELATIONSHIP

We have been buying media on TikTok for the past two years, with the platform now firmly winning its place on most of our media plans, says Jessica Travers, Consumer Marketing Manager ANZ for M.A.C and Bobbi Brown. “TikTok

Jessica Travers, CONSUMER MARKETING MANAGER ANZ FOR M.A.C AND BOBBI BROWN

has allowed us to reach and capture the interest of the Gen Z consumer in partnership with M.A.C artists and creators. We have re-imagined the brand, leaning into the creative nature of the platform to tell our brand and product stories in new and entertaining ways.” Influencers continue to be an integral part of our brand and marketing strategy, she says. “We partner with select influencers and creators, to tap into their

engaged audiences and create content that is compelling and native to the platform we are showing up on. We are always considered in who we choose to align with as authenticity is a non-negotiable. We ensure our brand partners genuinely love and use our products, with most of our paid partnerships born of organic sharing and advocacy.” We love to enhance our customers lives through our products and our social media, says Dr Naomi McCullum of Dr Naomi Skin. “It’s a two-way relationship and it’s so important to learn from each other. For us to provide the best new products, we

Dr Naomi McCullum, AUSTRALIAN COSMETIC PHYSICIAN AND FOUNDER DR NAOMI SKIN

Dr Naomi Fizzy Lift Instant Glow Mask works.

TALKING POINT

is important to stay relevant and elevated on the social media platforms we know our consumers are using for entertainment, inspiration and education. We are embracing TikTok with a strategic mix of in-feed ads and native-style content. TikTok marketing has the power to get your brand and product in front of a wide audience.”

need to know what our customers struggle with so we can focus on solving their issues. As a B2C brand, social gives us instant access to a global audience and a direct line of communication with our followers. To a degree, brands are not just brands anymore, we are also digital publishing arms and our social platforms are trusted resources for our community to turn to directly for advice, education and, of course, to make direct purchases.” We are in the process of launching our TikTok platform and it will be very different to our Instagram handle because it doesn’t make sense to have two platforms that are essentially the same, she says. “The TikTok audience and demographic is very different to our existing Dr Naomi Skin followers, so we need to make sure we speak to everyone. Our TikTok account will be a much more relaxed and informal account - more a day in the life, behind the scenes and what goes on in the day-to-day running of our business.” McCullum believes that some products lend themselves better to social media promotion. “We have had particular success with our Fizzy Lift Instant Glow Mask, which upon application instantly bubbles and fizzes on

RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |43

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the skin. The effect on the skin has proved to be really popular on Instagram and we’ve seen strong organic pickup from both influencers and customers.” STORYTELLING/ EFFECTIVE TAILORED MESSAGING

Social media is crucial to marketing beauty products, says Janet Hayward, Founder of Ipsum skincare. “The opportunity to tell

Janet Hayward, FOUNDER OF IPSUM SKINCARE

also had great publicity from Mamamia with Mia Freedman herself posting on her Sexy Six IGTV about our Best Skin Face Oil. In the UK, Alexandra Shulman, the former editor-in-chief of UK Vogue, featured Ipsum Lip Oil Balm as one of her Summer Saviours after seeing the product on Instagram. The power of genuine Instagram posts can’t be underestimated.” It is essential for brands to be interacting with their customers on social media channels, especially direct-to-consumer brands because that’s where their core demographic is highly active, says Rachael Tyers, Co-Founder and Head of Marketing for tbh Skincare. “Social

Rachael Tyers, CO-FOUNDER AND HEAD OF MARKETING FOR TBH SKINCARE

Kim Kardashian posted about Ipsum Skincare.

your brand story and shape your brand persona on one or more of many platforms and also to be able to target and segment brand messaging to a diversity of potential customers is a marketing gift.” We have dabbled with TikTok but it hasn’t been a primary focus to date, she says. “Later this year, particularly with the launch of one of our new products, we will be doing more on TikTok. I love the way you can communicate important, but not necessarily attention-grabbing information - such as specific usage instructions - in a really creative and engaging way.” Instagram has been particularly great for us with unsolicited “pinch me” surprises that have had a great impact on our brand awareness and success this year, adds Hayward. “Kim Kardashian posted a photo of her live Zoom consultation with her facialist - Joanna Czech, the influential founder of the CzechList - who is also an Ipsum stockist in the US. We have 44| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

media presents such a huge opportunity for brands to be more targeted in their marketing, tailoring their messages to specifically meet the context of an individual consumer. When you make your marketing personalised in this way, it becomes a lot more effective and definitely a lot cheaper as well.” TikTok is a channel where tbh has an opportunity to build engagement and loyalty with existing customers and to reach a new customer group, she says. “TikTok currently has one of the lowest CPMs of any other marketing channel, meaning you can reach so many eyeballs for not a huge investment. Its paid capabilities are evolving really quickly. At present, our focus is driving traffic to the website. but as the capabilities of TikTok improve, I have no doubt that it will start to drive strong revenue growth for plenty of brands, who can get the creative on the channel right.” We recently started advertising on TikTok, adds Tyers. “One of our videos has over one million views and some of our creatives have seen click-through rates as high as 5 per cent. That’s crazy when you are looking at an average of 0.9 per cent or less. Our influencer marketing strategy, paired with our Facebook ads, really underpinned our go to market strategy. The 7000 customers we have acquired in our first 16 months of operating is largely down to these two channels.” CONTINUOUS TOUCHPOINTS/EASY SHOPPING PLATFORM

Social media is one of the most effective ways to reach a large audience and offers continuous touchpoints on the different platforms to connect with existing and

potential customers, says Charmaine Pichler, Marketing Manager, Weleda Australia. “From cent via influencers and

Charmaine Pichler, MARKETING MANAGER, WELEDA AUSTRALIA

media platforms to targeted ads, we use social media in our marketing mix with great results. Instagram, in particular, is a very engaged platform and our account not only provides content, it also acts as a hub for followers to tag our products in their own content. Makeup artists love using our Skin Food for their looks, for example, and want to direct their followers to our page for more information.” TikTok is part of our marketing mix, especially for some our ranges aimed at a younger market such as our new Hydrating Facial Care and cult products like Skin Food”, she says. “It is such an interesting space and seeing the content created by Weleda fans is great. Our account gives them an opportunity to tag us and increases engagement. It has to be said though, TikTok requires a lot of resources in order to reach and entertain an audience effectively that it’s almost a full-time job in itself.” Influencers can add great value by creating beautiful content, but the quality of the influencer and the authenticity and relevance of the audience is crucial, she says. “It is important to have realistic expectations about the results of a campaign. Just because someone has a large number of followers doesn’t mean the audience is going to convert to customers for a brand. Having a continuous relationship versus a one-shot post is key and gives consumers confidence the influencer actually uses the product. We also strongly believe in declaring the partnership and require all influencers, whether it is a contra-collaboration or paid post to be transparent.” Social media has become a great marketplace to involve, engage, educate and create a beauty community in the comfort of their own homes, says Jacqueline Mey, Social Media Executive for The Jojoba Company. “Gone are the days consumers need to

Jacqueline Mey, SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE, THE JOJOBA COMPANY

write a lengthy email or call a company to ask a simple question. They can now comment, instant message or live chat with a brand and receive an instant response. An easy shopping platform, customers can see how much positive feedback the company receives and easily check out from any device. The data we receive from consistent monitoring across all of our social channels helps us to understand our audience better, identify current trends and strengthen our overall presence in the beauty space.” We saw huge social growth during the pandemic and our e-commerce store has enjoyed an increase in traffic, she adds. “Maintaining high engagement across all social channels is becoming more essential than your follower count. Consistent brand messaging not just in posts, but also in customer service and general replies across the network is also key in maintaining your overall brand image. Using brand type, colours and tone is a must across different channels. You want consumers to recognise not just your logo but your unique tone of voice.” Social media is a key platform for us to increase brand awareness and acquire new customers, as well as showcase new and core products, says Erin Tuffy,

Biossance Regional Director, Asia Pacific. “Social media is more than just a

Erin Tuffy, BIOSSANCE REGIONAL DIRECTOR, ASIA PACIFIC

tool for selling, it is an incredibly important education channel. Whether it’s through virtual masterclasses or how to videos on upcycling, product usage or self-care tips, social media allows us to connect with customers all over the world.” We are definitely watching TikTok carefully, but we want to ensure that any content we do feels authentic to the platform, she says. “We have a strong crew of loyal supporters. Since we launched in the market, we have been building deep relationships with fans of the brand. A commitment to sustainability is critical with any of the partners we work with. We launched our Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum earlier this year and saw incredible results through social media. It instantly became our #1 selling product and has remained in the number one slot since launch.”

TikTok currently has one of the lowest CPMs of any other marketing channel, meaning you can reach so many eyeballs for not a huge investment...At present, our focus is driving traffic to the website. but as the capabilities of TikTok improve, I have no doubt that it will start to drive strong revenue growth for plenty of brands, who can get the creative on the channel right. RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |45

TALKING POINT

Leading the Brave New World L’Oréal is the world’s and Australia’s largest cosmetics company and is a global leader in harnessing the power of social media. Social media, or social commerce as we call it, has become increasingly important in selling our beauty products to consumers, says Lyndall Campher, Media Director for L’Oréal Australia.

Lyndall Campher, MEDIA DIRECTOR FOR L’ORÉAL AUSTRALIA

“However, it is worth noting that Search plays a critical role in driving ROAs (return on advertising spend) and for this reason we use the two digital channels in tandem to ensure optimum ROAs. We have Facebook pixels on our Direct to Consumer (DTC) websites, so that we can measure the success of each campaign we run on social media.” We are doing a lot more on TikTok, as it is a guaranteed way of talking directly to a Gen Z audience, she says. “TikTok has been a disrupter in the industry by driving short-form, relevant and authentic content that has changed the way we deliver our content. A quick way to describe the type of content is the 3 Rs - Relevant, Raw and Rapid. What has also made TikTok popular is that it is seen as adding value to the creators and viewers on the platform. “Mostly, we focus on a bilateral approach of using influencers on TikTok and using their content to talk to viewers. We have seen the impact of skinfluencers on TikTok

46| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

Hyram Yarbro caused CeraVe’s awareness to skyrocket.

driving the success of brands and, in particular, CeraVe. In its first local TikTok challenge, CeraVe achieved an impressive 15 million impressions and over two million clicks. TikTok allowed the brand to get the reach, but enabled it to engage and interact with consumers in a fun way. Feeding them easy to digest content and making skincare easy and accessible.” Influencers play an intergral part in all our campaigns, says Campher. “We are looking at extending our range of influencers to include gamers, notably female gamers. We believe that the online gaming or e-sport channels such as Twitch and Fortnite are areas where we can talk to consumers in a different way. It is also our intention to use influencers as part of our affiliate program and get them to sell our products as a new form of social commerce. “Over the past year, CeraVe has experienced great success around the world, and TikTok has been one of the key drivers of this success. The explosion

of TikTok and the advocacy of the US influencer and makeup artist, Hyram Yarbro, caused the brand’s awareness to skyrocket in 2020. We could also say that pandemic skincare trends tied in with the upsurge in popularity as well - from back to basics to skincare over cosmetics trends.” Campher believes that certain brands and categories are more suited to social media, such as beauty products and fashion products that do not require a high amount of education. “Our L’Oréal Paris Magic Retouch content with Eva Longoria has been very successful, for example. You would have thought that talking about a root re-growth product would require longer content to explain, but we have managed to communicate the concept in three minutes.” We pivoted our business from brand awareness to conversion media during the first lockdowns in 2020, she adds. “During the 2021 lockdowns, we ensured that we continued to invest in both brand awareness on social media, as well as transaction to ensure we kept talking to potential new customers. Another way that we did this was to broaden our range of social media platforms to include SnapChat and Pinterest - both of which we used for conversion. But there has been a growth of all social media over the past year. Facebook, Instagram and YouTube have all grown their older audiences. TikTok has been the real success story of the pandemic, Eva Longoria demonstrates how to though, growing by one use L’Oréal Paris Magic Retouch. million users.”

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#AdTok unlocks the power of TikTok for marketers TikTok For Business has introduced #AdTok, a world-first initiative that aims to demystify TikTok for marketers in Australia and New Zealand. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with Elisa Kelsall, Head of Brand Partnerships, TikTok Global Business Solutions, to find out brands can best unlock the power of the social media platform. IS TIKTOK FOR BUSINESS BENEFICIAL FOR SMALL BUSINESS OWNERS?

Absolutely - TikTok understands the needs of small business owners and we offer a slew of solutions and easy to understand resources designed specifically for them. Whether you have recently launched a business or want to expand an existing brand, TikTok provides innovative marketing opportunities for businesses of all sizes - that just don’t exist anywhere else. We know that small businesses are the beating heart and soul of our communities, and that small business owners often wear a lot of hats - they’re CEOs, IT specialists, accountants, and on top of all of that, social media managers. This is why we are constantly evolving to provide tools to make it even easier for small businesses to reach and connect with audiences and see a tangible impact on their business, all in ways that are cost and time efficient. The real beauty of the TikTok app for small business owners is that everything you need to create the perfect TikTok is right there within the app. All you need is a mobile phone, some trending music and fun content to film - no need for high production value. TELL US ABOUT #ADTOK

#AdTok is our latest B2B marketing initiative and one that we’re really proud of - not just because it is a world first, but because of the role we think it will play in demystifying the world of TikTok for marketers in Australia and New Zealand. Through the dedicated hashtag, #AdTok is an ever-evolving and accessible destination with content created by TikTok For Business, as well as some of our best and brightest brands and creators. By providing a simple and easyto-access home for marketing tips, creative inspiration, and examples of awesome TikTok campaigns, we hope to give businesses of all sizes a way to unlearn more traditional marketing techniques and embrace the opportunities for success TikTok has to offer. WHAT MAKES A GOOD MARKETING CAMPAIGN?

When it comes to strong marketing on TikTok, we encourage brands to think like marketers, but act like creators in the way they 48| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

approach their content strategy. What we mean by this is don’t make ads, make TikToks! Whether it’s creator assets or brand assets, we recommend that you lean into best practices and trends that are already appearing on the platform. Leaning into how our community uses the platform allows brands to really be a part of the conversation. When brands speak the language of their communities on TikTok, and show that they understand the platform and who is viewing their content, you will cut-through and see the results. Our community comes to TikTok to be entertained, informed and inspired, so keep these at the core of your campaigns and focus on bringing genuine value and opportunities for two way exchanges with your community. If I had to zone in on the key ingredients for an impactful TikTok campaign, I would say - make use of sound and engage through the diverse creators on the platform. WHAT TYPE(S) OF CONSUMERS CAN A BRAND REACH USING TIKTOK?

What is particularly special about TikTok is its huge diversity of subcultures, communities and fandoms where everyone is given a voice, and every business, large or small, can find its audience - and these audiences are often harder to reach on other platforms. We encourage brands to consider the differences between reaching an audience on a social media platform versus engaging with a community on TikTok. The critical difference between an audience and a community is the former is often a passive consumer, while a community engages, interacts and generates their

HOW COULD A BEAUTY BRAND BEST UTILISE TIKTOK?

Beauty on TikTok is all about getting creative, having fun and expressing yourself. It’s not about always being ‘picture perfect’. The community share their unfiltered looks of what makes them look and feel good. We saw huge changes in behaviour to self-care routines during the pandemic and the TikTok community were quick to share their tips, tricks and looks both in lockdown and as we ventured out into the world again. TikTok has redefined the way beauty brands engage with their audiences. The beauty community on TikTok expect to be part of the conversation on the latest beauty trends and products, and hold brands and creators to a high standard on what they value most - from diversity and representation to circularity and sustainability. To make a mark with these communities, lean into the authentic and creative ways beauty brands are able to connect with users. This could be by providing useful hacks to master a common beauty challenge or showing behind the scenes on how your product is created. Or it could be highlighting members of our community using the product or or creating your own entertaining and inspiring content to encourage the audience to try it for themselves.

on TikTok. The community was challenged to recreate a legendary Y2K look heroing the MAC Studio Fix Foundation for the chance to win $500 of MAC makeup. • Launching an innovative, shoppable livestream campaign with Charlotte Tilbury, where the TikTok community could easily shop from the Mecca website directly from videos. In this campaign, six TikTok creators fashioned looks with Charlotte Tilbury products from MECCA, bringing the brand to life.

INTERVIEW

own content. When creating on TikTok, you need to shift the power into the hands of the communities who are seeing your content, bringing them value and the opportunity to feed back and interact with your content.

HOW CAN A BRAND GO ‘VIRAL’ ON SOCIAL MEDIA?

The real power of TikTok is rooted in the ‘disruption of discover’. TikTok provides an even playing field for brands regardless of big names, budgets and follower counts - to go viral on the platform. With TikTok, you don’t have to actively search or follow brands, our recommendation system fuels the discovery of new trends, topics, brands and products that inherently matter most to you, and in turn, serve up brands to a highly engaged audience. A particularly exciting prospect for brands is that advocacy for your products or services can come from your owned channels, or through creators who are creating and sharing your products. We saw the power of this with L’Oreal’s CeraVe brand. Did they see their products flying off the shelves because everyone was on TikTok actively searching for new skincare? No, it was because a popular US beauty influencer, Hyram Yarbro @skincarebyhyram, shared his honest and relatable reviews of the brand’s product and clearly showed their efficacy. This similarly happened with Clinique’s cult classic lip color, Black Honey, which became a must-purchase product driven by unpaid, unaffiliated brand ambassadors on TikTok that built massive credibility for Clinique amongst our younger users, many of whom have likely never purchased a Clinique product before that moment.

When it comes to strong marketing on TikTok, we encourage brands to think like marketers, but act like creators in the way they approach their content strategy.

CAN YOU SHARE ANY EXAMPLES OF BEAUTY BRANDS USING TIKTOK FOR MARKETING?

We have seen beauty brands both big and small tapping into TikTok in awesome ways and experiencing success both on and off platform. From small businesses who are using TikTok as a launchpad for their emerging brand, to heritage brands who are connecting with their fans in a different way or reaching new audiences. A few stand-out examples include: • L’Oreal’s CeraVe | @cerave: CeraVe is a brand that has led the way for the Beauty category on TikTok, immersing themselves in the community and evolving their content strategy to think TikTok-first. Examples of their content on TikTok include: • The #thismyface branded hashtag challenge featuring a song exclusively created by Sony music artist, Kye, and involving popular local creators to gain momentum. The campaign drove high reach, engagement and impact across all brand metrics with over 38m video views and counting. • They embraced innovation and were the first brand to run a standalone Branded Effect in Australia for their #CleanseLikeADerm campaign. This campaign was both entertaining and educational - which is at the core of what our community expects from TikTok - and resulted in 620k effect video views! • MECCA | @meccabeauty: Mecca continues to drive awareness on the TikTok platform by getting creative and innovating their content. This includes: • Creating a best in class Branded Hashtag Challenge in partnership with MAC titled #throwitMACwithMECCA. This challenge leant into the throwback vibe we see play out

An influencer trying the viral Clinique Black Honey Lipstick.

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BEAUTY HELPS TO FUEL ONLINE SALES SURGE FOR MYER

ONLINE PRESTIGE BEAUTY SALES IN CHINA SOAR

Many of the leading beauty multinationals are releasing their latest corporate sales results as the world rebounds from the Covid-19 pandemic. The one constant in most of the financial reports centres on booming sales in mainland China. According to The NPD Group, the global market researcher, online prestige beauty sales in China soared 47 per cent in the first six months of the year to US$5.4 billion, by contrast to the same period in 2020. The two major sectors of growth were haircare and skincare, which increased 84 per cent and 50 per cent, respectively. E-commerce sales of fragrance and makeup also enjoyed double digit growth of 48 per cent and 34 per cent. Skincare remains the big cheese in prestige beauty in China with a 68.5 per cent market share - down slightly from 70 per cent in the first half of 2020. The two highest-grossing sectors of the category were sets and kits (60%) and face (51%). Online suncare sales also rose 107 per cent in the first six months of the year during the Northern Hemisphere Spring and Summer. As mask-wearing mandates eased in mainland China, demand for colour cosmetics surged strongly to generate US$528 million in online prestige beauty sales in H1. One of the key takeaways from the prestige beauty industry’s experience with Covid-19 lockdowns has been that manufacturers and retailers must have an actionable digital strategy, said Stanley Kee, managing director APAC, The NPD Group. “Not only are more people buying beauty products online, but new selling formats such as livestreaming or short form videos are continuing to rise in popularity, providing endless marketing opportunities for beauty brands.”

It’s been a challenging year for Myer as the pandemic heavily reduced foot traffic in the prestige department store chain’s network, particularly in major CBDs. The company has reported an incremental increase of 5.5 per cent in total sales for its FY21 to $2.658 million – down from $3 billion in 2019. On the bright side, Myer returned to profitability for the first time since 2016 and online sales soared 27.7 per cent to $539 million over the period, representing 20.3 per cent of overall sales. Beauty and homewares were the e-commerce standouts, soaring 218 per cent and 177 per cent, respectively, over the full year. Myer will continue to focus on online growth for the current fiscal year and has its corporate eye on reaching a target of $1 billion in annual e-commerce sales over the next few years. In August 2020, the company inked a multi-year deal with Australia Post to provide warehousing and online fulfillment servers to further enhance the online experience for its customers. CEO John King attributes Myer’s latest results to the hard work of his team. “We are starting to see the business thrive despite the extraordinary market conditions. Our significantly improved FY21 results, including growth in profitability for both the first and second half, demonstrates the Customer First Plan is getting real traction. “Despite the on again/ off again nature of physical retail over FY21, when combined with continued growth in the online business, we delivered solid sales growth when not impacted by lockdowns, particularly in H2 21.”

THE TOP 15 SKINCARE BRANDS ON TIKTOK

TikTok, the explosively popular videosharing social media platform, has become a major contender in the beauty influencing game. Magazines and websites all over the world regularly run articles on the most popular TikTok hacks and beauty products. According to Roy Morgan, more than 2.5 million Australians used TikTok in 2020 - with a 52.4 per cent surge in the final six months of the year. More than 70 per cent of Aussie users are young and females outnumber males. Gen Zers aged 16 to 28 are the most enthusiastic TikTok fans in Australia (1.04 million), followed by Generation Alpha (aged 6 to 13 years; 746,000) and Millennials (aged 31 to 45; 463,000). Beauty brands are racing to the favourite social media platform for young girls and women in Australia and around 50| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

TikTok user @kaelynwhitee reviewing The Ordinary’s product.

the world. According to Skincare Hero, the US skincare advisory platform, the top 15 skincare brands out in front with the most hashtags and followers are: 1) The Ordinary 2) CeraVe 3) L’Oréal Paris 4) Glossier 5) Versed, the US vegan brand 6) Kiehl’s 7) Dermalogica 8) Mario Badescu, the A list derm brand favourite stocked by Mecca 9) Cetaphil 10) Paula’s Choice 11) Shiseido 12) Dove 13) Olay 14) Drunk Elephant 15) Lancôme

Formulated by FERMIO. Fermented by Nature.

FERMIO came about when its founder, Ai-Lien Chen, faced

around for thousands of years and are known to be beneficial for

the challenges of helping a family member overcome poor gut

digestive health.

health. Whilst digestive discomfort may not be life-threatening,

FERMIO created its proprietary triple-fermentation biotechnology

its disruptive effect can significantly affect the quality of life of

by harnessing the power of microbial cultures to extract the best

those impacted.

of whole foods and naturally fortify them with vitamins, minerals,

Even as a pharmacist with over fifteen years of clinical

antioxidants, enzymes and organic acids. This nutrient-dense base of

experience helping others, Ai-Lien felt frustrated and overwhelmed

fermented superfoods is easily absorbed and perfect for delivering

by the complexity of information and the sheer number of

bioactives that naturally nourish the gut microbiome.

products and programs on the market when it comes to gut health. Knowing that small changes can have the biggest impact,

While the science is complicated, the final products are simple, fuss-free, and do not require people to turn their lifestyles upside

Ai-Lien and FERMIO’s founding team of scientists and industry

down. After all, it’s easier to meet long-term health goals if they can

experts in healthcare, analytical chemistry, manufacturing and

be implemented in short, sustainable steps.

logistics, set about creating products that prioritised convenience and simplicity. With years of collective insight into the food and pharmaceutical

FERMIO’s range of convenient and delicious wellness solutions are multi-functional, flexible, and reflect the company’s belief that a healthy microbiome is the foundation of a healthful individual.

industries, FERMIO chose fermentation as the foundation for its product development program. Fermented foods have been

Wellness made simple!

FERMIO NUTRITIONAL CLEANSE Cleanse. Balance. Nourish

FERMIO’s Nutritional Cleanse is a simple and convenient wellness formula that delivers nutrients essential for digestive balance and resilience. Fermentation-enriched foods are abundant in good bacteria, vitamins, trace minerals, enzymes and organic acids. FERMIO uses its proprietary triple fermentation technology to combine 88 whole foods and naturally active ingredients to: • Gently cleanse the digestive system • Balance the gut microbiome • Nourish the body with phytonutrients EACH NATURALLY FLAVOURED SUPERFRUITS & BERRY SHOT FEATURES: • FERMIO’s signature blend of 88 triple-fermented whole foods • Prebiotics with 4.8g of fibre per serve • Plant-based antioxidants • Vitamin B complex, minerals and micronutrients BENEFITS: • Gentle digestive reset to kickstart healthy habits • Improves digestive comfort & microbiome resilience • Convenient once-daily serving in ready to drink bottles • Flexible regimens – available in 8 Day or 4 Week Program

FERMIO, the new Australian wellness company that trades in nutritional fermentation biotechnology. The brand’s hero product, a science-backed Nutritional Cleanse, harnesses the nourishing power of triplefermented whole foods to realign your digestion.

EACH STIMULANT AND CAFFEINE-FREE TROPICAL POWDER SACHET FEATURES: • FERMIO’s signature blend of 66 triple-fermented whole foods • 2800mg of patented premium Japanese marine collagen dipeptides • Mental focus-enhancing and calming nootropics • Natural actives for energy metabolism and sugar balance

FERMIO COLLAGEN + CLARITY Elasticity. Hydration. Focus

FERMIO’s Collagen + Clarity is formulated for skin health, mental focus, stress resilience and digestive wellness. An Australian first featuring patented premium marine collagen dipeptides with clinical benefits in skin integrity and wound healing, FERMIO cleverly combines mental clarity-boosting nootropics with triple-fermented nutrients to: • Stimulate collagen and elastin production • Protect skin from the harmful effects of stress • Maintain the integrity of the gut-skin and gut-brain axis

BENEFITS: • Rejuvenates skin, hair, nail and mental focus for clarity from the inside out • Clinically researched collagen dipeptides are 3-5 times more predictably absorbed than standard collagen • Enhances the skin microbiome’s resilience to environmental, metabolic and mental stressors • Convenient once-daily powder mixes easily with water or into smoothies

The only collagen supplement in the Australian market that features a state-of-the-art Japanese dipeptide blend that blows other formulas bioavailability claims out of the water.

FERMIO IMMUNITY+ COMPLEX Immunity. Resilience. Vitality

FERMIO’s Immunity+ Complex is meticulously formulated by a team of scientists and healthcare professionals according to Traditional Chinese Medicine principles of creating and maintaining balance. FERMIO uses proprietary, targeted extraction techniques to concentrate 12 healing herbs and 3 plant actives into a delicious and restorative tonic to protect, support and restore vitality. EACH PLANT-POWERED NATURALLY FLAVOURED LIQUID SACHET FEATURES: • Immunomodulatory and adaptogenic herbs Astragalus, Jiaogulan, Wild Honeysuckle Flower • Powerful seasonal and respiratory defence Quercetin, Kudzu Root, Brussel Sprout, Wild Mint • Cardioprotective antioxidants Black Garlic, Ginger, Lotus Seed, Water Lily Seed, Chrysanthemum Flower • Circulatory support extracts Nattokinase, Bromelain, Pericarpium Citri Reticulatae BENEFITS: • Facilitates healthy heart and circulation • Balances stress and immune response • Supports vitality during seasonal changes and challenges • Ready to drink sachet or mix with sparkling water for an effervescent herbal boost

“FERMIO, an Australian company, has drawn from one of the world’s oldest health traditions and distilled it into a tiny sachet for immunity and vitality.”

NUTRITIONAL CLEANSE

COLLAGEN + CLARITY

IMMUNITY + COMPLEX

Retail Presentation

50mL RTD Glass Bottle x 8 Pack

6g Powder Sachet x 14 Pack

35mL RTD Foil Sachet x 14 Pack

Proprietary Technology

Triple Fermentation

Dipeptide Processing

TCM Herbal Extraction

Key Ingredients

88 Whole Food Blend, Prebiotics & Cellbiotics™

Collagen Dipeptides, 66 Whole Food Blend, Nootropics

12 TCM Herbs, 3 Plant Actives

Free-From

Preservatives, Dairy, Artificial Colours & Flavours

Gluten Content

Nil-Gluten Detected

Never Tested on Animals Vegetarian/Vegan-Friendly Manufacturing Facility & Quality Certifications

Made in Taiwan (HACCP, ISO 9001, ISO 22000)

Gluten-Free

Pescatarian-Friendly (Marine Collagen)

Vegetarian/Vegan-Friendly

Made in Australia (TGA-Licensed Facility)

Made in Taiwan (HACCP, ISO 9001, ISO 22000)

FERMIO’S MULTI-CHANNEL MARKETING LAUNCH ACHIEVED EXTENSIVE BRAND AWARENESS

Reach

2.8M Reach

Reach

80K Reach

Bars not to scale

1.8M

10M

14K Reach

Influencer Campaign

Magazine & Print

Email Campaign

Sampling & Events

Total PR reached since May 21

FEEDBACK FROM INDUSTRY #FERMIOFAMILY

CONSUMERS LOOK TO BOOST HEALTH PRACTICES. MAXMEDIALAB There’s no doubt that with the pandemic came an increase in demand for health and ingestible products from consumers. As FERMIO’s PR agency it was important for us to educate around wellbeing at a time when there was an appetite for knowledge, especially focusing on product ingredients and the science behind the brand. Without in-person events, utilising brand co-founder and practicing pharmacist Ai-Lien Chen as a voice for the brand was an important storytelling tool for us, as she was the person who developed and worked on formulations. When we reviewed the product portfolio it was obvious that the Nutritional Cleanse and Immunity+ Complex products would be well-received during the lockdown phase. This was a huge success across social media for us, with many people in our community looking to boost health practices as well as learn more about the ways they could better look after their health.

For Publicity Enquiries, Please Contact Nora Shkreli nshkreli@maxmedialab.com.au

SKIN, MENTAL HEALTH AND DIGESTIVE WELLNESS ARE TOP PRIORITIES. Alison Morgan, Business Coach, www.relauncher.com.au Consumers care about wellness through a broader & more sophisticated lens than previously. Categories range from fitness to beauty, plus both physical and mental health. With the change in landscape, working from home and a focus on health; looking after yourself has become the centre of attention for both healthfocused and mainstream consumers. FERMIO’s formulations support skin health, mental health and digestive wellness. All categories are a top priority for consumers and the future of the wellness industry.

With over 20 year’s experience in Marketing and 10 years of private business coaching clients, Alison is one of Australia’s leading business coaches. Alison specialises in helping Health, Wellness, Beauty and Lifestyle businesses to grow their Business, Brand and Profile successfully.

AS SEEN IN

BEAUTY AND BALANCE FROM WITHIN. Melinda Wenig, Makeup Artist & Hair Stylist, www.melindawenig.com.au The Beauty industry is now more than ever changing ... People want to not only look good, but feel good too. Everyone is searching for what FERMIO is offering, a strong immune system coming from a balanced gut and good digestion. The Collagen + Clarity is my personal favourite and works perfectly with my Makeup Artistry, helping to build collagen for healthy skin and protect it from the harmful effects of stress. Beautiful Makeup looks even more beautiful when the skin underneath it is healthy and glowing. For this, I highly recommend FERMIO and have been using the products since their release years ago.

Melinda has been a Sydney HMUA for over a decade and can be found working in all areas of Makeup Artistry & Hairstyling, from Commercial, Editorial, Runway, TV Shows, TVC & Stage.

MINDFUL CONSUMERISM AND WHOLISTIC WELLNESS. LOYAL CRUSH, Online Retailer, www.loyalcrush.com We are all more conscious of what we’re putting in our bodies and looking for ways to boost immunity, mindfulness and the way we look when we step out into the world. We’re proudly celebrating a movement towards wellness as customers enjoy natural beauty products and immune-enhancing powders and tonics that elevate internal health.

Loyal Crush is the destination for the best in natural skincare, beauty products and wellness inspiration.

BEYOND THE DIET, BEFORE THE DRUGS. Lauren Howard, OTC Buyer, Independent Pharmacy Pharmacies are increasingly becoming health hubs and wellness destinations, where consumers benefit from the advice and expertise of trusted healthcare professionals and well-trained pharmacy staff. Functional foods with proven gut-mediated health benefits like fermented foods help consumers embrace wellness at its core with prevention and protection beyond what a regular diet can offer. FERMIO’s range of convenient, delicious, and professionally formulated products provide an ideal platform for pharmacies to engage and support consumers early in their wellness journey before presenting as patients of lifestyle-preventable diseases.

Lauren is an experienced Retail Buyer across multiple product categories with a solid understanding of the unique market dynamics of the pharmacy landscape.

MARKETING STRATEGY: 2021 – 2022 • Digital & traditional media advertising campaigns • Influencer collaborations with a focus on health, beauty, lifestyle • Brand partnerships & collaborations to leverage organic reach • Retailer sampling & GWP promotions • Corporate sponsorships & partnerships • Out-of-home advertising, including large-format, dynamic and CBD locations

TGBC X FERMIO FERMIO has chosen to partner with The Great Brands Company (tgbc) because of their dynamic approach to sales, marketing and retail distribution. tgbc has a growing portfolio of brands in the health, well-being, and beauty categories. Their business experience in these categories, combined with the technology they use to engage customers and retail staff has made them the perfect sales and distribution partner for FERMIO. tgbc understands that good health and well-being is directly linked to how we nourish and cleanse our bodies. It is widely understood that we are what we eat. Unfortunately, modern lifestyles and eating habits often make it challenging for us to take care of our health and provide our bodies with the valuable nutrients it needs to thrive. While there are many companies offering products as possible solutions to this problem, tgbc believes that FERMIO’s nutrient rich Nutritional Cleanse, containing over 88 different fermented fruits & vegetables, is one of the most natural and superior products in its class. Supporting the body to cleanse is important for long term health, and in tgbc’s opinion, FERMIO has created a leading product in this space. The company is excited to be marketing FERMIO’s leading Nutritional Cleanse, Immunity and Collagen products. tgbc collaborates closely with frntlne technologies, a leader in high intensity, incentivised training and education (HIITE) for retail staff. Their training methodology ensure staff are well educated about the products they sell and as a result, become strong brand advocates. Every retailer that stocks FERMIO will receive free frntlne retail staff training.

To become a FERMIO stockist: The Great Brands Company hello@tgbc.net 0491 229 810 For all other enquiries: FERMIO LAB hello@fermio.com.au 1300 792 847 www.fermio.com.au Instagram / Facebook @fermiolab

Sun and Games All the beach bag essentials for the perfect summer.

Photo Credit Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

Weleda 24h Roll-On Deodorant - www.weleda.com.au Philip Kingsley Swimcap Water Resistant Mask - www.adorebeauty.com.au Pure Paw Paw Ointment Strawberry - https://core-metrics.com.au Mukti Tinted Moisturiser With Sunscreen SPF 15 - www.muktiorganics.com Ulta3 Nail Colour Sky High - www.heatgroup.com.au Creed Virgin Island Water - https://agencedeparfum.com.au Trinny London Golden Glow Gaia - https://trinnylondon.com Sisley Phyto Eye Twist Long Lasting Waterproof Eyeshadow in Rose Bronze - https://www.sisley-paris.com Jurlique Rosewater Balancing Mist Five Roses - www.jurlique.com Face Halo - https://facehalo.com Tanologist Face + Body Drops - www.tanologist.com Recreation Beauty Bondi Beach Sun Kissed - https://recreationbeauty.com Embryolisse Comfort Lip Balm - https://frenchbeautyco.com.au Flower Beauty Gel Crush Lip & Cheek Blackberry Crush - www.flowerbeauty.com Sun Bum Premium Sunscreen Face Stick - www.sunbum.com Tan Luxe The Face Illuminating Self Tan Drops - https://tan-luxe.com Carmex Intensely Hydrating Lip Balm in Watermelon - www.carmex.com.au

RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |59

5 minutes with...

Lara Worthington Entrepreneur, brand creator, mother, international model, actor, philanthropist and brand ambassador. It seems there’s nothing Australia’s golden girl Lara Worthington can’t do. Not only does the mother-of-three donate 100 per cent of her skincare company Share the Base’s profits to three charities - WWF Australia, Humpty Dumpty Foundation, and Bowel Cancer Australia – she was also named as Swisse Beauty brand ambassador earlier this year. Retail Beauty catches up with the LA-based beauty to find out more about her ambassador role. 60| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

5 MINUTES WITH

Swisse is all about an integrated approach to wellness – and this reflects the approach I take to my personal health; balancing mindfulness, good nutrition and finding time for that daily movement.

SWISSE IS AN ICONIC VITAMIN, SUPPLEMENT, AND SKINCARE BRAND – WHY WAS IT A GOOD FIT FOR YOU AS AN AMBASSADOR?

Swisse is a brand whose values and ethos align with my own. I’ve been a big fan of the brand for eight years now. Swisse is such a beautiful Australian success story. My career would not be where it is without Australia and its people and bringing light to the company’s new chapters in beauty from within, skincare and wellness makes me very proud. HOW DID THE PARTNERSHIP COME ABOUT?

WHAT IS YOUR PHILOSOPHY WHEN IT COMES TO SKINCARE?

Swisse is all about an integrated approach to wellness – and this reflects the approach I take Swisse Polypeptide Renewing Sleep Mask. to my personal health; balancing mindfulness, good nutrition and finding time for that daily movement. So, when Swisse asked me to become ambassador, it felt like a natural fit. I get as excited as anyone else about a product launch, but the best thing about being an ambassador is being able to play with all the new Swisse products early.

I take a holistic approach to beauty and wellness and believe looking after your skin and within should be simple.

WHAT ARE YOUR MAIN SKIN CONCERNS AND WHAT PRODUCTS DO YOU USE TO HELP COMBAT THESE?

During winter my skin can get super dry, so I’ve been using the Swisse Polypeptide Renewing Sleep Mask a couple of times a week which delivers intense hydration and has polypeptides which improve the look of tired and stressed skin. HOW IS HEALTH AND WELLNESS DIFFERENT IN AUSTRALIA AND THE US?

There are definitely similarities, I believe it’s all to do with how invested you are in your health and everyday wellness. RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |61

On the streets of... Don’t you miss sitting on the street at a café in some far-from-home city sipping your café au lait, your chai or your English Breakfast cuppa…just looking? It’s where you really see what people are preferring, from pointy toes to platforms, from pinks or purples, and padded, pared or peplum. The streets are the real fashion runway. Feeding into our need for People Watching, Andrea Ferrari chats with girls on the ground in London, New York and Poland. Grab your latte, sit back and watch the world go by.

Sarah Pasquier has lived and worked in London for the last three years. She works the for the skincare brand ~ ARgENTUM Apothecary. She can spot a beauty trend a mile off; you may remember her as Sarah Kennedy, almost a decade ago in Sydney using her intrinsic beauty radar as Beauty Planning Manager at David Jones. “The current London look is all glowing, well-cared-for skin, strong, but natural brows and a tinted lip. Can you believe that good old Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey has sold out everywhere since trending on Tik Tok? We have all been working from home for 18 months, and the beauty focus has certainly changed. Gone are the days of putting on a full face of make-up in the morning; now perhaps it’s just a bit of mascara and lip for a video call! “Skincare as a category is booming. People are taking the time to research and find correct products and get actual results. Not being able to go to a salon for a professional treatment means that customers are educating themselves on ingredients - they can now tell you the difference between hyaluronic acid, peptides and retinol. “Fragrance today, is more for personal enjoyment rather than a grand statement and the latest releases focus on natural ingredients, a story to tell and refillable packaging. Shopping online for fragrance has always been a barrier because you need to try it on - so many brands now send a sample with your order to try before you open the full size or offer discovery kits with a few small vials. “Customers are also holding brands accountable on sustainability claims. Green washing is being talked about and is not tolerated. Argentum is a Positive Luxury Brand - their Butterfly Mark offers the customer peace of mind about the standards the products/brand have proven they meet. 62| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

“Social media is providing platforms for industry experts to share information and bring passionate people together. In the UK, Caroline Hirons is the Queen with a blog and a best-selling book. She makes appearances on morning TV, does Instagram Lives and sells out products as soon as she mentions them. She is an advocate for founder-lead brands and I am sure her influence has helped many survive the last year or so.” ANJALIKA BOSE

Anjalika’s roots are in India, while she has “lived vastly” between India and Europe all her life. She currently lives in Olsztyn, in the remarkably stunning region of Warmia & Mazura, Northern

Photo by @leocyb for @yaaba.pl (www.yaaba.pl)

SARAH PASQUIER, LONDON

GRACE MCGEEHAN

Gracie lives in Fulham, South West London and works in Health & Wellness, running her own business as a Therapist and Yoga Teacher.

“For me, I am ALL about natural beauty and a big believer that true beauty comes from within, through the words and thoughts we feed ourselves every day. But I love me some big old brows - they are a sure way to create beautiful definition in the face. “As us Londoners transition from summer to colder, darker days, it’s all about hydrating the skin and creating a radiant glow without the sunshine. My favourite way to do this is using a light oil - Aesop for me is the go-to. Also, regular use of beauty tools like gua sha to increase blood flow to the cheeks. We are coming into fake tan season - Bondi Sands is my favourite for this. I put it on all over my body and leave it for a few hours then wash it all off, so it doesn’t get onto my sheets or clothes. “Nails, I like to keep au naturel, but love the odd manicure to make sure my cuticles and nail shape are en pointe. Hair is important to really hydrate at this time of year, so again I use a relatively light oil to leave it silky smooth after shampoo and conditioning.”

FEATURE

Poland, also known as the Region of a Thousand Lakes and Forests. Anjalika is a yoga teacher, yoga scholar, meditation-pranayamamantra-mindfulness guide, deeply interested in Ayurveda and vegetarian and vegan nutrition. “I am very much an advocate of ‘less is more’ when it comes to beauty and beauty products. My kitchen is my spa with face masks, peels and scrubs all made from coconut oil, olive oil, fruit peels, coffee, yogurt, honey, oats and essential oils. I am 41 years on this earth and celebrate growing older and wiser. I usually stick to trusted and small brands with products that are mostly natural and chemical-free with a conscious mission statement. I always say; if you can’t eat it, it can never be fully natural. “This is why I absolutely love the Polish brand Yaaba, which I represented in their latest collection (as shown in the photo). I believe in their conscious mission, enabling you to authentically express yourself through their products. Yaaba products are 100 percent natural and handmade, based on ancient beauty secrets of Africa. I also adore that the ingredients at Yaaba are very carefully sourced to make sure they are of the highest quality. Their divine textures and smells are a dance between luxurious and earthy. “I also use and recommend Polish beauty brands; 4Szpaki, Shy Deer, Mokosh, Organique, Purite, and the classic Inglot. When it comes to makeup, the trending focus in Poland right now is emphasised features, especially the eyes. Small and big cities are teeming with permanent makeup studios especially for the brows and lash. The look on the street is a contrast between eyes and lips; a natural look with toned down lip colours and emphasised eyes, or bold bright lip colours with natural eyes. Eyelash extension is a very popular procedure, but a bold pair of eyebrows is the winner. “It is worth mentioning that Polish beauty is also big on ‘beauty from within’. A typical Polish woman knows a lot about herbs, herbal teas, naturopathy and essential oils for wellbeing and inner beauty, very much like Indian Beauty wisdom, passed down through generations. Polish women are deeply connected to Nature and Mother Earth. When it comes to colours and textures of makeup and clothing, it changes with the seasons, as everywhere. “Pastels especially pastel yellow and lilac are making a huge comeback, for clothing and nails. Last spring saw rosier shades and sky blue; summer brought glitter, bling and bold, as well as muted rose, earth and sage, and the autumn - as opposed to the usual autumnal shades of mustard and wine - is now suddenly starting to boom with pastel yellow, lilac, and mad fiery orange. In this country, diversity of beautifulness is loved, inner beauty and wellbeing is more meaningful, and the gentle seduction between softness and boldness is cherished.”

CHRISTINE FOULCHER

Christine lives in Brooklyn, New York and works in Soho for Fortress Brand as Director of Business Development – Beauty. “As beauty trends make waves through 2021, the online retailer Amazon has become a hotspot for cosmetics, skincare, haircare and wellness. 2020 truly changed the course for beauty trends and shifted not only the way consumers think about their beauty routines, but the way they shop for their most desired products. It catapulted an e-commerce movement that allowed online retailers like Amazon to become the go-to destination for all things beauty. As Amazon continues to rise as one of the key players in beauty and personal care, Fortress Brand, where I work, uncovered the trends and ingredients that have surfaced across a variety of beauty-focused industries - cosmetics, skincare and haircare. The research provided by Fortress’s proprietary data technology gives insight into what’s next for Amazon in the world of beauty. “As more people meet in person, cosmetics shopping is seeing an increase as people wear more makeup. The US heatwaves of summer 2021 saw people allowing their skin to see the sun and are now using body makeup to prolong their tans. Eye-focused beauty products like lash oils and eyebrow stencils are also being sought out for a statement eye, while lip plumpers and lip stains are high in demand for each person’s version of the perfect pout. “When it comes to skincare, consumers are looking for multitasking super-ingredients that pack a punch. While tried-andtrue classics like retinol, caffeine and collagen continue their postpandemic rise, green tea, turmeric and exfoliating acids like BHA, glycolic acid and AHA are seeing spikes as well. “Consumers are also focusing on reversing hair damage and taking care of their hair from roots to ends. Reparative products like scalp scrub, anti-frizz serum, oils for damaged hair and leave-in conditioner have been the go-to for keeping hair healthy and fresh this year. “As trends and consumer behaviour evolve, it’s evident that the fortitude of Amazon in the beauty space will only continue to grow. Beauty brands are realising these shifts in consumer behaviour are a prediction of how the e-commerce landscape is rapidly changing, as they are now increasingly embracing online retailers as a part of their omnichannel e-commerce strategies and following more opportunities for growth on Amazon. The marketplace accounted for over 40% of e-commerce sales in the U.S. in 2020 with revenues reaching $386 billion (a jump of 38% from 2019).”* *https://www.digitalcommerce360.com/article/us-ecommerce-sales/ RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |63

PHARMACY NEWS

Wesfarmers to acquire Priceline parent company for $764 Million

In July, Wesfarmers made an unsolicited bid for Australian Pharmaceutical Industries (API), the parent company of Priceline and Soul Pattinson pharmacies. The $687 million offer by one of Australia’s largest companies was widely viewed as opportunistic. Two months later, Sigma Healthcare, the largest pharmacy network in Australia with 1200 branded and independent stores including Amcal and Guardian, topped Wesfarmers offer by two cents a share in a cash-andscrip deal potentially worth $774 million. Wesfarmers upped the ante again in early October by acquiring a 19.3 per cent stake in API. Last Friday, Sigma decided not to proceed with its offer. Wesfarmers has announced it will acquire 100 per cent of API’s shares in a buyout worth $764 million. The owner of Bunnings, Coles, Kmart and Officeworks, Wesfarmers posted sales of $30.75 billion in 2020 and has long been eyeing the $25 billion Australian pharmacy market. Priceline and Priceline Pharmacies will be a jewel in the multinational’s crown as one of Australia’s largest pharmaceutical and beauty retailers, operating 420 stores nationwide.

Rob Scott, Managing Director of Wesfarmers.

Rob Scott, Managing Director of Wesfarmers, reiterated earlier statements that the company supports the current API business model and the takeover is a key opportunity to enter the health, wellbeing and beauty sector. “Wesfarmers continues to see opportunities to invest and strengthen the competitive position of API and its community pharmacy partners by expanding ranges, improving supply chain capabilities and enhancing the

online experience for customers”, he added. The pharmacy sector accounts for the largest share of the Australian beauty market at 19 per cent, followed by supermarkets at 12 per cent. As the owner of Coles, one of the big two supermarket chains, Wesfarmers will have a greatly expanded footprint in the cosmetics category and increased synergies. Pending regulatory approval, the deal will be finalised early next year.

APP2022 early bird tickets now on sale Registration for next year’s Australian Pharmacy Professional Conference & Trade Exhibition (APP2022) is now open online at www.appconference.com. The early bird pricing currently on offer allows delegates to save over $100 on their registration to APP2022, which is being held 24-27 March on the Gold Coast. In addition to the early bird savings, the first 200 attendees to register as full delegates will receive a further 10% discount off the early bird rate. The Covid refund guarantee which was introduced for APP2021 will also be on offer for the 2022 event, providing peace of mind for delegates wanting to register early and save. The Pharmacy Guild of Australia’s National President, Mr Trent Twomey, said if attendees can’t travel to APP2022 due to Covid-19 restrictions and lockdowns, they will have the choice of a full refund or transferring their registration to another delegate. 64| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

“Getting access to early bird prices and having a Covid money-back guarantee in place is really the best of both worlds,” he said. “Registrants can get access to cheaper registrations plus have peace of mind of knowing they won’t be out of pocket.” Following a move to May in 2021 to allow for more time for Covid-19 restrictions to be lifted, APP2022 is returning to the event’s original March timing.

“We thank pharmacists and pharmacy assistants who are working hard on the frontline and hope APP2022 will provide them, plus the rest of the industry, an event to look forward to,” he said. “APP2021 was the industry’s first big event following the Covid-19 outbreak and the vibe was amazing. We’re hoping to replicate this next year and make APP2022 even bigger and better!”

For the fifth year running, Chemist Warehouse has partnered with media personality Gus Worland’s foundation, Gotcha4Life, to raise awareness and funds to build mental fitness, emotional muscle, meaningful mateship and social connection, this year raising $850,000 in support. This amount was raised through in-store and online donations nation-wide and with the support of suppliers including OptiSlim OptiMan, Lynx, Elastoplast, Head & Shoulders, L’Oréal Men Expert and Nicorette who donated a percentage of sales on select products at Chemist Warehouse directly to Gotcha4Life. Mario Tascone, Chemist Warehouse Director, said: “As the House of Wellness, the team at Chemist Warehouse is proud to partner up with Gotcha4Life who passionately raises much needed awareness and essential funds to build mental fitness. With such an incredible amount raised in

Jeff Wasley, Pharmacist, Managing Partner and Anna Nipperess, Pharmacist, Managing Partner presenting 2021 fundraising efforts to Gotcha4Life Foundation.

PHARMACY NEWS

Chemist Warehouse raises $850,000 for Gotcha4Life

2021, we cannot wait to continue our support and see the important work the Gotcha4Life foundation conducts as they continue to educate the community on the benefits of opening up when times are tough, which now more than ever is so vital.” Funds raised from the 2021 donation drive will support Gotcha4Life in delivering presentations, workshops and vital sustainable training programs that create meaningful mateship, build emotional muscle and strengthen social connection in Australia to ultimately put an end to suicide. Gus Worland, Gotcha4Life Founder, said the “money will allow us to continue the journey to zero suicides and assist in building the mental fitness of all Australians”.

Watsons China ranks number one in Beauty Retailer category YiMagazine, an influential media in China, has published the 2021 Most Loved Local Brand ranking with Watsons China ranked number one in the Beauty Retailer category. Established in Hong Kong in 1841,

A.S. Watson Group is the world’s largest international health and beauty retailer operating over 16,200 stores under 12 retail brands in 27 markets, with over 140,000 employees worldwide.

For the fiscal year 2020, A.S. Watson Group recorded revenue of $27.5 billion. Each year, the titan serves more 5.9 billion shoppers via its offline plus online (O+O) platforms. More than 4,000 customers voted on the poll and chose their favourite brands in the market. A statement from the company read: “O+O strategy is a proven success According to YiMagazine, the younger generation wants faster, more convenient, and accessible shopping experience. Retailers have to transform and come up with a ‘customer-centred’ approach to respond to customer needs. “With its O+O strategy, Watsons China is able to create an integrated customer experience by seamlessly integrating over 4,100 offline and online platforms. It means customers can shop across any channel, anytime, anywhere. Watsons also delivers O+O shopping experience like MyStore, Enterprise WeChat, express delivery within an hour, Scan & Go and AR skin analysis to meet the needs of the younger customers and connect with them. Over the past three years, Watsons has gained deeper market penetration while sales volume has increased.” RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |65

PHARMACY NEWS

Priceline improves customer insights and analytics

Priceline Pharmacy parent company, Australian Pharmaceutical Industries (API) has partnered with research and data insights company, Roy Morgan to use its Helix Personas customer segmentation tool to improve customer insights and analytics. API will employ the Helix tool to enhance the personalised view of each customer enabling it to provide a curated experience for its Priceline customers. “Helix Personas uses deep psychographic insights, far beyond simple demographics, to segment consumers into targetable groups. The tool incorporates values, beliefs and attitudes which are the best predictors of consumer behaviour, so that retailers can reach customers most effectively with messages that resonate,” Roy Morgan CEO Michele Levine said. API will use Helix Personas to enhance its understanding of customer behaviour. For example, Priceline Pharmacy will analyse Click & Collect and Click &

Deliver order data to enable greater insights into the behaviour and ordering patterns of its customers. Priceline Pharmacy will use this data, sourced from customers using these ecommerce services, to design product and marketing that is relevant for each store catchment area. This partnership with Roy Morgan is the latest in a series of partnerships and investments API has made to maintain Priceline Pharmacy’s Sister Club’s position as one of Australia’s best performing loyalty programs and the largest focused on health and beauty. “We have evolved the Priceline Sister

Club loyalty program so that the basket size of members is 42% higher than non-member customers,” API CEO and managing director, Richard Vincent said. “Last year we announced that we’d undertaken a major revamp of our Sister Club program to provide greater benefits across our membership tiers and enable us to better reward our most valuable customers who shop online and in-store. “Tools like Helix Personas will allow us to deliver more relevant, personalised and therefore engaging offers to our valued customers. When you combine this with our plans to upgrade our ecommerce platform, it is exciting times for our Priceline customers.”

TerryWhite Chemmart delivers via drone in world-first service in QLD Australia’s first on-demand residential drone delivery service Wing has partnered with Vicinity Centres to pilot a new model of delivery, flying goods from retail shopping centre rooftops, directly to homes and businesses in southeast Queensland. The first-of-its-kind drone delivery pilot kicked off in mid-August delivering goods from a range of businesses located at the centre directly to consumers by drone from Grand Plaza in Logan. Participating businesses include TerryWhite Chemmart, which offers drone delivery of beauty products, as well as over-the-counter pharmaceuticals, personal care and general items, as well as food and beverage outlets such as Sushi Hub, Boost Juice and Chatime. In the first six weeks of service, Wing 66| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

made more than 2,500 contactless drone deliveries from Grand Plaza to customers in parts of the Logan suburbs of Regents Park, Heritage Park, Park Ridge, Browns Plains, Marsden, Crestmead and Berrinba. “We’re delighted to explore this new model of delivery with Vicinity Centres. For the first time, we are co-locating our drones

with businesses at their premises, rather than local businesses having to co-locate their goods with us at our delivery facility,” Wing Australia head of policy and community affairs, Jesse Suskin said. “With the increase in consumers’ desire for convenience and speed, on-demand drone delivery can help address the costly last-mile delivery challenge, reduce road congestion and emissions, and create new economic opportunities for businesses by utilising their existing retail space as logistics hubs and fulfillment centres. “We look forward to continuing to work with the team at Vicinity Centres to further develop new delivery models that can complement the retail businesses located at Grand Plaza, and potentially roll out similar models in other locations across Vicinity Centres’ retail property portfolio.”

A sunsible end to lockdown? By Dr Jennifer Semple

Skin health is an essential part of beauty—so let’s all promote the message of sun safety as we emerge from lockdown into the sunlight As I write this, many parts of our country have been subject to lockdown restrictions. Some for many weeks. Melbourne has claimed the unenviable title of the world’s most locked down city, surpassing the record set by the Argentinian capital of Buenos Aires, following its sixth lockdown. And while Sydney isn’t close to tallying as many days of restrictions as Melbourne, it passed the 100-day continuous lockdown, before restrictions were eased on October 11. All parts of the country have been affected by lockdown or travel restrictions, to varying degrees. However, as the nation ‘opens up’ as vaccination rates approach the prescribed targets, and as the weather warms up, previously unrealised dreams of outdoor adventures are just around the corner. I am picturing a collective exhalation of relief as thousands break free of the confines of their homes to adventure further afield. The beach! The bush! It seems safe to say that there is the hope of a change of scene and sunlight on our faces—beyond a 5 or 10 km radius from our homes! As we do so, and as summer heats up, sun safety remains as important as ever. After all, Australia has one of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world, with two in three Australians being diagnosed with skin cancer by the age of 70. Sadly, 2020–21 saw a dramatic 20 per cent increase in drowning deaths and a 150% increase in water rescues. These have been largely attributed to post-lockdown activities, as Australians explored unfamiliar outdoor spots in the absence of options for travel further afield. How does this relate to sun safety? Because it indicates that after last year’s lockdowns, Australians flocked to the outdoors with such alacrity that safety considerations may not have been not top-ofmind for all. So, given that the winter season has just passed, home has been the norm and extended time outdoors will seem like a long-forgotten paradise, will people pause to ensure that sun-safe practices are prioritised? Many Australians know about sun safety. And that sunscreen is an

important part of protecting their skin from the harmful effects of the sun—along with a hat, protective clothing, shade and sunglasses. But many Australians have also shown in past behaviours that they do not know how much sunscreen to use and how often to apply it. Sunsible (www.sunsible.org.au) is all about staying sun safe with sunscreens. It is a consumer-focussed website promoting the essential role of sunscreens in health protection and encouraging the proper use of sunscreen. Sunsible explains how to use sunscreen effectively, how to choose a sunscreen and when and how to apply it. It also explains some of the technical aspects of sunscreen in everyday language, including how sunscreens work, how we can know that they are safe and effective and the meaning of terms like ‘broad spectrum’, ‘SPF’ and ‘water resistant’. And the Sunsible quiz tests knowledge about skin health and sun protection. We are all in the business of skin health as an essential part of beauty. Sunsible was designed as a valuable industry resource—it’s brand-neutral—and we know you will find it to be a reliable and helpful tool as you promote the important message of sun protection as fundamental to skin health, or respond to consumer or media enquiries. This message may be needed more this year than ever before as we revel anew in the unconfined great outdoors.

ABOUT DR JENNIFER SEMPLE

Dr Jennifer Semple is the Innovation & Education Manager at Accord Australasia Limited

ABOUT ACCORD

Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www.accord.asn.au

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Here comes

the Sun

Bathefex Softsole Express Exfoliating Foot Peel - www.chemcorp.com.au Jeuneora SuperSuper Face Oil - www.jeuneora.com.au Mor Marshmallow Petal Hand & Nail Cream – www.morboutique.com Medik8 Advanced Day Ultimate Protect - www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au Essano Vitamin C Super Glow Facial Oil – www.essano.co.nz Nude By Nature Exfoliate Exfoliating Facial Scrub – www.nudebynature.com.au Susanne Kaufmann Blue Light Defence & Moisturising Mist - www.mecca.com.au Susanne Kaufmann Hyaluron Serum - www.mecca.com.au Pure Tan Pure Bronze Self Tan Eraser - www.chemcorp.com.au Mavala Switzerland Hydro-Repairing Foot Care – www.mavala.com.au Philosophy Nature in a Jar - www.coty.com Skin Physics Polyglutamic + Intensive Hydrating Serum - www.biophysicsgroup.com

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Heat and sun approved, these are beauty products that will be essential to a consumer’s summer routine.

Photo Credit Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

Spascriptions Super Foods Moisturizing Sheet Masks - www.chemcorp.com.au Clarins Double Serum Eye - www.clarins.com.au Avène Tolérance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream - www.pierre-fabre.com/en-au Q + A Caffeine Eye Serum – https://au.qandaskin.com Ella Baché Defence+ Antioxidant Radiance Cream - www.ellabache.com.au Biomimic Ultra Hydrator Advanced - www.biomimicskincare.com Liberty Belle Rx Superstar SPF 50+ - www.libertybelle.com.au Boost Lab AHA Glow Resurfacing Serum – www.boostlabco.com Santa Maria Novella Aloe Gel for Face and Body - https://agencedeparfum.com.au Sunny Skin Super Sun SPF50 - https://sunnyskin.com Nixe Facial Drops - www.nixebeauty.com Hemptuary Hemp Soothing Body Balm - https://hemptuary.co.nz

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My Journey As Communications Director at one of Sydney’s top, full-service luxury and premium PR agencies, Ingrid Lovett is ‘the face’ of MML. The busy motherof-two spends her day in and out of meetings, creating and launching press releases and marketing campaigns, holding strategy presentations, developing branding initiatives, managing internal communications and external media relations and much more. Michelle Ruzzene sits down with Ingrid to find out the lessons she’s learnt in her impressive career path.

WHERE DID YOU GROW UP?

I grew up on Sydney’s Lower North Shore with my grandparents. Our neighbourhood had lovely tree lined streets a village atmosphere with a keen sense of community. I was an only child so loved having friends over, swimming in the pool, climbing trees and riding my bike or going down to visit friends at The Spit where we would play on boats for hours on end. I had a very adventurous spirit and dreamy persona. I was very connected to nature and the world around me and would spend hours outdoors exploring during summer. I loved helping my grandmother cook going to art classes reading and watching movies in the cooler months. WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB?

My very first job was at McDonalds in Cremorne. My school friends and I went for an interview together and all got a job there at the same time! We would all ride our bikes to work, clock in and then eat together afterwards. I learnt a lot about responsibility and being on time. Being a people person, I also learnt very quickly I wanted to be on the front counter greeting people and not in the back cooking. WHAT DOES A TYPICAL WEEKDAY LOOK LIKE TO YOU?

I am up at 6.30am to run, circuit and swim in the ocean every morning in any weather with my partner. I find it so therapeutic for my mind, body and soul even on mornings when I don’t want to get out of bed – but this routine drives my momentum through the day. My next stop is Birichina in Bondi for a much-needed coffee! Then home to make breakfast and getting my girls, Lucia, 9, and Miel, 13, ready for school before heading to the office. From then on, my day is a mix of meetings from strategy presentations to media negotiations and team and client liaisons. My evenings are spent 70| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

Ingrid Lovett Communications Director, MaxMediaLab (MML)

cooking, eating out or enjoying some down time before a relaxing movie or reading in bed. HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN AT MML?

I have been at MML for six years and have thoroughly enjoyed working closely with CEO, Lynette Phillips, the exec team and my colleagues. Lynette has an incredible vision and empowers everyone around her with her can-do / everything is possible attitude. Culture and creative communications are incredibly important in everything we do and with the people we work with. I have a dedicated team of 10 in my department who are super passionate and agile, which is so important when working with our clients as we are an extension of their team. We work across local and international brands, not only launching them into them market but growing their presence, brand awareness and market share. Strategy is at the heart of everything we do and ideating, researching, and coming up with ways of doing things differently breathes life into every project we embark on. BEFORE MML, YOU WERE AT L’ORÉAL LUXE?

Previously I was at YSL Beauté as PR and Comms Manager where I also looked after media for over seven years before it was purchased by L’Oréal Luxe globally. I was then inherited you may say by L’Oréal and invited into the PR and Comms team. I had an amazing seven years there working alongside Christine Burke and Camille Walker. I came in as PR and Communications Manager and worked on beautiful global brands like Giorgio Armani, YSL, Ralph Lauren, Kiehl’s, Biotherm and Lancôme. As PR and Comms Manager it was our job to launch new brands and products into the local market as well as work with event specialists to bring these launches to life. We also worked closely with global ambassadors and embarked on many global famils and local events and partnerships.

I have a dedicated team of 10 in my department who are super passionate and agile, which is so important when working with our clients as we are an extension of their team.

I feel incredibly lucky to have had so many opportunities and highlights throughout my career. These span from biannual trips to Paris and Singapore, to press famils at Kokomo Private Island, Patron HQ in Guatemala in Mexico, and even into the secret world of Moët & Chandon’s underground wine cellars before dining in the private ballroom with Chef de Cave, Benoit Gouez. Other highlights have been managing PR and Comms for Hamilton Island Race Week for a few consecutive years before launching Fenty Beauty and bringing Rihanna to our local market to celebrate the first year of Fenty Beauty and Fenty Skin. Another highlight was bringing the first influencer into the market, Michelle Phan, for Lancôme at Myer, before anyone knew what an influencer was. Managing to get the first local interview for Mr Ralph Lauren in the Australian market. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE WANTING TO PURSUE A CAREER LIKE YOURS?

I would always recommend staying in a position for more than three years so you learn as much as possible as well as challenge yourself so you can make a difference from that experience. I have found the younger generation are more restless and feel the need to move more frequently but I would always encourage them to stick it out as it shows loyalty, and they will gain more respect from future employees on their resume.

MY JOURNEY

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER HIGHLIGHTS?

WHAT IS THE ONE COMMON MYTH ABOUT PR THAT YOU WANT TO DEBUNK?

That there is no return on investment (ROI) in PR activities. PR is an authentic way to share your story in media and allow your potential customers to engage with your brand quickly. It builds trust in the public when they see your brand’s name in the news. Trust leads to conversations, and ultimately an increase in sales. PR gives you ROI in terms of media buzz, public engagement and a loyal customer base, generating more sales and returns. 1. Lynette Phillips, CEO MaxMediaLab and MaxConnectors. 2. MaxMediaLab has an in-house production and creative team.

01.

WHAT ARE THE BEST RESOURCES THAT HAVE HELPED YOU ALONG THE WAY?

1. Having a mentor. 2. Finding inner strength. 3. Being proactive, not reactive. WHO ARE THE THREE PEOPLE WHO HAVE BEEN THE MOST INFLUENTIAL TO YOU?

• Judy Brinsmead, CEO and owner of ADCO Construction. • Lynette Phillips CEO MaxMediaLab and MaxConnectors. • Cathy Corby, Healer FAVOURITE QUOTE?

“If you can’t fly then run, if you can’t run then walk, if you can’t walk then crawl, but whatever you do you have to keep moving forward.” Martin Luther King, Jr.

02.

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The stages of processing the Argan Fruit.

The origin of ingredients As a brand creator, do you know how your ingredients and produced and where they come from? Although I speak to brand makers and ingredient importers as part of my job every week, it wasn’t until I ventured to Morocco and saw how Argan Oil was REALLY made, that I began to question the authentic origin of ingredients. By Nicci Herrera.

Women working at Cooperative D’Argan Marjana.

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Pre-pandemic, before Covid-19 halted all travel, I took a holiday to Morocco. I had heard a bit about Argan Oil - I knew it was from western North Africa and I knew the beauty industry was onto this ingredient that had been trending for some years. The brand Moroccanoil, distributed by Haircare Australia, was my first memory of a company really promoting the benefits of Argan Oil back in 2007. The trend for this ingredient was on the up, pioneered predominantly by the professional haircare industry. Each distributor had ‘their’ version and now, fast forward to 2021, Argan Oil is everywhere. I was recently in K Mart and Woolworths where I counted at least seven different wetlines on the retail shelves highlighting its benefits – it’s safe to say it has certainly hit mass market. Schwarzkopf even had a variety of shampoo SKUs promoting the use of Argan Oil.

THE PROCESS IS AS FOLLOWS:

1. Argan fruit is sold to the co-op. 2. The women de husk the fruit by hand to reveal the nut. 3. They crack the nut to reveal the seed. 4. The seed is milled through a press, and either left raw to be used in cosmetics or roasted for making Argan Oil to be used for cooking. 5. Water is added to the milled seeds which turns it into a dough. 6. The oil and water are pressed out. 7. The oil and water splits, resulting in the ready to use Argan Oil.

TRAVEL

But Argan Oil is not only an ingredient used in haircare and in skincare – traditionally it is used for cooking. On my amazing getaway to Morocco, it was evident how important this plant oil, produced from the kernels found inside the argan nut, which is found inside the fruit of the argan tree, was to the nation. Arriving at Marrakesh, I truly discovered the pride and passion behind the production. Everyone I encountered was on a mission and the aroma of spices enveloped me. I only wish I could bottle the confidence and resilience of the traffic stoppers - I would sell it to every brand that has counter staff. I was taken in by the fragrances, oils and perfumes of Morocco. I was drawn to the earthy, the oud and the decedent scents. These aromas would last for days with just one application. It was so vastly different to the fragrances I had encountered in Paris a few weeks prior and the perfume boutiques such as Penhaligon’s in London – both of which I loved! This was a sensory experience I had never discovered before. As I travelled around the country, from Marrakesh to Essaouira and finishing in Casablanca, it was a driver named Mo who really began to educate me on the Argan Tree – and why there were goats in there! Mo explained that the goats ate the trees’ fruit and then regurgitated the nuts. He informed of us of the special co-operations that employed women, usually that were widowed or divorced, to help give them financial independence. Following our discussion, we made a very impromptu visit to Cooperative D’Argan Marjana, where I was given a fascinating tour of the co-op. Much like the Australian wine industry, where small vineyards sell

Cracking the Argan Nut.

Goats in the Argan Tree

their grapes to wine producers, Marjana purchases the undamaged high-quality fruit to process at their facility. The result? Awardwinning quality Argan Oil sold all around the world. Producing the oil is a labour-intensive process that involves around 60 ladies or so on a rotating roster that sees them extract all the goodness by hand. It takes these women up to two days to process 60kg of the Argan Fruit that results in one litre of Argan Oil. For their work they receive a wage and a commission structure based on profits made. There is no waste, no chemicals or no pollution. What really resonated with me was the entire community can make an income here off these Argan Trees and boast ECO Certification, Norma Cert and SDA certification. But, like all industries and with any business, there are those who find a short cut – not all Argan Oil is as organically or ethically produced as this. So, what makes a ‘bad’ or low quality Argan Oil? As mentioned, goats love the Argan Tree. As you drive down the

desert-like roads, you will see them perching high on the branches. The Argan Fruit is eaten by the goat, where it sits in its gut for up to four hours, before being regurgitated and the nut is spat out. Some producers of Argan Oil pick up the nuts and start the process from Step 3. If the nut has come from a goat, rather than being husked b by hand, the goodness and nutrients from the fruit are compromised. Hence my question to you is: Do you know the REAL source of ingredient you are stocking on your shelves? I have comprised a list of questions you need to consider before taking on board any brand. • Are you taking information about ingredients from your suppliers on face value or are you digging deeper? • Do you know how and where their ingredients are sourced? • Australian standards may be met - but are they meeting your ethical standards? • How sustainable is the brand? • Where are the raw ingredients being purchased from? • Are there better ways to support communities and the environment?

The making of Argan Oil in Morocco.

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AUSSIE MADE

Secrets of an Entrepreneur

David Willey

GROWTH TANK FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR Growth Tank Founder and Director David Willey is passionate about helping people and brands grow through the transformative power of events and experiences, which is not always easy during a pandemic. With restrictions easing, David’s Youth Marketing Australia conferences are back on the calendar. Retail Beauty catches up with the experienced business entrepreneur and marketer to find out more.

YOU REFER TO YOURSELF AS A SERIAL ENTREPRENEUR ON LINKEDIN WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO BE A TRUE ENTREPRENEUR?

Being an entrepreneur is a funny old game. It can sometimes be incredibly lonely, heart racing, exciting and terrifying at the same time. You’ve genuinely got to be okay with riding the waves of that lifestyle. It’s not for everyone, and I’ve got to say there have been many times that I’ve questioned the path I have chosen. It takes a lot of time, mistakes, grit and determination in my opinion. But overall, I think being a true entrepreneur gives you so much freedom to explore who you are, what you want from life and the ability to shape that destiny. HOW AND WHY DID YOU START YMA (YOUTH MARKETING AUSTRALIA), AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST YOUTH MARKETING CONFERENCE, HELD ANNUALLY IN SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE?

Youth marketing has always been my area of expertise, and my initial goal was to launch a marketing agency here in Australia. However, being fresh off the boat, I didn’t know anyone, so I set out to share some of the skills that I’d learned in the UK in the hope that I would build up a list of contacts. Then it finally hit me, that ‘light bulb moment’ if you will, why not round up local experts and create an event to meet people, share knowledge, research and insights. At that time, Millennials were a hot topic, and I set out to develop the first iteration of YMA and managed to secure some of the biggest names in the game. Now, five years and one pandemic later, we are back bigger than ever (with a healthy book of contacts). I cannot wait to run a real-life event again. 74| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

YOU ARRIVED IN AUSTRALIA FROM THE UK IN 2015 WITH SPADES OF MARKETING AND MANAGEMENT EXPERIENCE. WHAT DID YOU NOTICE LACKING IN AUSTRALIA?

One of the critical things that I noticed was not something that was lacking, but rather there was an underlying desire to learn from the rest of the world. Australian marketers have always had a healthy obsession with understanding what works (and what doesn’t work) in other regions. The UK and the US are particularly interesting as our purchasing patterns, and consumer behaviours are very similar. This desire to hear stories of success (and failure) led me to develop events focused on helping brands understand their customers. WHAT BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES DID YOU IDENTIFY IN AUSTRALIA?

CAN YOU SHARE SOME OF YOUR SUCCESSES WITH STARTING UP A BUSINESS IN A NEW COUNTRY?

I think entrepreneurs get so caught up in the big vision we forget to celebrate small successes, so I’m going to start with the small wins. The day I hired my first employee, the day we got our first office were all stand out moments for me. But on top of that, securing deals with the likes of Warner Brothers, Samsung and Amazon have also blown my mind. WHAT CHALLENGES DID YOU OVERCOME?

The first few years of any small business are always tricky. Securing funding and managing cash flow kills most companies, and I was almost one of them. There have been many months where I’ve not paid myself anything and lived on a shoestring budget, but that’s part and parcel of the game, right? I was

gutted that the banks wouldn’t support me, but perseverance (and a good accountant) are key to working through that challenge. I should also mention that securing Permanent Residency in Australia as a start-up founder has been incredibly hard and expensive! WHAT’S THE ONE BENEFIT OF HINDSIGHT YOU HAVE GAINED?

Ask for help earlier. I think entrepreneurs (myself included) have inherent confidence. Why else would we make so many bold, risky decisions! I wish I had asked for help earlier from business owners with more experience than me. Another thing I love about Australia is the massive amount of people out there willing to give up some of their limited time to help others. I would recommend that all business owners investigate working with a business coach, growth advisor or, at the minimum, get someone to help you manage cash flow.

Aussie made

Skills building, training and entrepreneurship is big business in Australia and is growing by the day. Personal growth and skillsbuilding were my business’s main business opportunities when I first set it up, and I believe it is still a massive area of growth for us. I feel that now, more than ever, people want to develop their business skills and carve out new paths for themselves rather than taking traditional career routes. I speak to so many people regularly about owning a business or taking on a side hustle. I think Covid-19 has caused a lot of people to ‘take stock’ of what’s important to them from a career perspective. I genuinely believe many people will change careers and take their lives in a new direction in a post-pandemic Australia.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR INDUSTRY?

Running events is a very gratifying game as you can take stock and look around and think, we did this. We made this happen. Everyone is in this room because of all our hard work and planning. It’s a great feeling, to be honest, and so is kicking back with a big gin at the end of it. HOW CAN BRANDS GET INVOLVED WITH GROWTH TANK?

We have three inspiring events coming up in 2022. Youth Marketing Australia is held in Sydney on March 17 and 18, and Melbourne on April 12 and 13 - great for any brands looking to get the edge on marketing to Gen Z. We also have Influencer Marketing Australia in Sydney on March 30 and Melbourne on April 28. Finally, we have Baby Boomer Marketing in Sydney on March 24. Use code: RETAILBEAUTY to get 20% off tickets. www.growthtank.com.au www.youthmarketingaustralia.com

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THE FARMERS BEAUTY BUYERS

Secret Product Picks

10 11 Headquartered in Auckland, Farmers operates 58 department stores across New Zealand. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the ultimate influencers – the Farmers Beauty Buyers – to find out what could be your next favourite product.

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12 SARAH CLANCY PRESTIGE COSMETICS BUYER

1. Dermalogica SkinPerfect Primer SPF30. I never had a primer work for me before, as no matter which one I tried, my make-up still just slid off. Since using the Dermalogica Primer, my make-up lasts all day. I also love its moussy texture and that it has SPF. 2. Elizabeth Arden Visible Brightening CicaGlow Concentrate. This product really delivers on what it says it will do. It has removed small blemishes and redness on my skin and definitely has made my skin glow more.

3. Clarins Double Serum Eye. I was lucky enough to try this product before the launch. At my age, my eye area needs all the help that it can get. With this product my eye area feels more hydrated and firmer. MONIQUE LITTLE HEALTH & BEAUTY BUYER

4. Antipodes Glow Ritual Vitamin C Serum with Plant Hyaluronic Acid. My go-to serum which I use religiously every day and night as part of my beauty routine. I love how this product instantly leaves my skin with a luminous, dewy glow. It features breakthrough ingredient, Kakadu Plum, which is one of the richest sources of Vitamin C, while natural retinol alternative, Bakuchiol, helps to smooth the appearance of fine lines. I often describe Glow Ritual’s luxurious lightweight gel texture as liquid gold in a bottle! Also love how this serum subscribes to a clean formulation of 100% natural origin and is certified vegan. 5. The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser. I am a huge advocate of this iconic cleanser from The Ordinary. Its unique balm to oil texture effortlessly melts into the skin, leaving it feeling soft, moisturised and perfectly balanced. At the same time, this product always effectively removes even the most stubborn traces of make-up without irritating my sensitive skin. A must-have in every bathroom cabinet. 6. The Avo Tree Facial Exfoliant. This is a product that I can’t live without. It harnesses the antioxidant power of cold pressed avocado oil with kiwifruit and ground avocado seeds to gently buff away dullness and brighten the skin. I love how this scrub leaves you with a fresh, healthy looking complexion each time and is partnered with a fresh uplifting scent. Like other products in The Avo Tree portfolio, the Facial Exfoliant is made in New Zealand, vegan, cruelty-free and uses 100% recyclable packaging. SHARON KWONG FAST MOVING COSMETICS BUYER

7. Revlon Colorstay Skin Awaken Concealer. I really enjoyed using this concealer. It is lightweight and great coverage with a natural finish. This is a great no-makeup makeup look!

FEATURE

8 9

8. L’Oréal Paris Voluminous Lash Paradise Washable Mascara. It does everything a mascara needs to do from lengthens, separates, adds volume, doesn’t clump, and holds the curl of my natural lashes. Most importantly, it doesn’t smudge. 9. Natio Tinted Moisturiser SPF 50+. A great tinted moisturised that provides light to medium coverage, perfect for the weekend. It blends nicely and give lasting hydration and SPF 50 for great protection. JAQUETTA CAHILL FRAGRANCE BUYER

10. Ecoya Sanitiser and Sanitising Spray. In a market flooded with sanitisers, this one really stands out. It is super gentle, nourishing and smells amazing. Available in a 450ml, which lasts forever, and a handbag friendly 40ml version - it is your ultimate 2021 essential! The sanitising spray is also great for cleaning laptops, phones and most other surfaces. 11. Givenchy L’Interdit. Year after year we have so many outstanding fragrance launches. Launched in 2018 Givenchy L’Interdit has always stayed a favourite of mine, and is a fragrance I often recommend - always with a strong uptake! Undeniably feminine this juicy white floral sits on a deep layer of vetiver which really adds a sophisticated edge that sets this fragrance apart. There have been a few incarnations since launch, but the original has my heart. 12. Paco Rabanne Phantom. What is a blockbuster fragrance without a show stopping bottle? Paco Rabanne Phantom, in its unmissable Robot bottle, is a sure-fire winner, destined to follow in the footsteps of the iconic 1 Million. With a focus on lavender the fragrance is deep and fabulous - without being polarising. What’s more wave your phone over the top of the 100ml format and be transported to a Phantom universe full of playlists, games and filters. Everything about this fragrance is fun! RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |77

PR and Communications Essentials Expert Insights to Maximise Success

By Nikita Papas Beauty’s highway is saturated with brands, some established and an array of newcomers that are reimagining the landscape with a bespoke and increasingly planet conscious approach. The world is spinning – social media has redefined the content landscape, and we are now trained to consume information at lightning speed. A robust PR and Communications strategy that embraces a digital-first, influencer-driven approach is critical, but nurtured media relationships that foster loyalty and growth, should never be underestimated. Understanding the needs of your media audience, and creating strategic efficiencies with your outreach will propel the valuable mentions you are seeking. PITCH PERFECT – NAILING THE MEDIA RELEASE

Brand assets are diamonds. As brand custodians, we need to be equipped with the most polished and engaging brand assets, to create envy and desire amongst media and consumers. A well-executed media release will touch on the brand story and seamlessly relay key product features and benefits. For brands that are shaping the future of beauty with a legitimate sustainable and/ or circular mindset, it’s beneficial to create awareness consumers are making informed purchasing decisions that extend beyond the formulation. Like us, we need to assume that our audience is time-poor – adopt a SkinCeuticals less-is-more approach and segment the media release with arresting sub-headings to ensure it is easy to digest. Writing is an acquired skill – if required, deploy a professional to create the most compelling brand and product both low- and high-resolution formats. Showcase texture to create narratives. ‘theatre’ - consumers are obsessed with elegant, non-greasy, fastThe most engaging editorial features are anchored by absorbing formulations. Editors and writers appreciate options – be professionally lensed, art directed images - the quality needs to be sure to provide a dynamic array of product executions (clean and high-end, and the clearly named files should ideally be provided in lifestyle-oriented), that can be downloaded with absolute ease.

A robust PR and Communications strategy that embraces a digital-first, influencer-driven approach is critical, but nurtured media relationships that foster loyalty and growth, should never be underestimated. 78| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

FEATURE La Roche-Posay

A cultivated, up-to-date media database is also crucial – your assets need to land into the correct inbox. Connect with your media stakeholders and be sure to follow-up to seek out valuable feedback and offer further assistance. Target and personalise your outreach to showcase an understanding of their respective platforms and audiences. Beauty editors and writers are rehearsed with reviewing products, and identifying key messages to ignite desire and propel sales success. Their expert word-of-mouth referrals are also ‘golden’. In short, they should be envisaged as priority allies - invest in building these crucial relationships, and never forget the importance of etiquette. ALIGNING WITH KOLs - EDUCATION IS KEY

Consumers are becoming progressively knowledgeable about ingredients. Aligning with Key Opinion Leaders (KOLs) such as dermatologists and aesthetic doctors, that can talk to the benefits of specific ingredients builds swift credibility. These professionals can also speak to (harmful) ingredients that have been deliberately omitted. Expert KOL quotes that are integrated into media releases, provide premium fuel for editors seeking to elevate their editorial features. Furthermore, the quotes can prompt requests for further outreach to the KOL - this can potentially increase the allocated editorial real estate to maximise exposure for the brand and/or product. If aligning with a KOL is not an option, hero key ingredients with a clinical approach, whilst adhering to the brand’s signature tone of voice. The beauty landscape is filled with promises – media tastemakers and consumers are seeking proof. Ultimately, talk to creating and maintaining healthy, radiant-looking skin – this simple (but sometimes overseen) skincare goal is universal. INFLUENCER OUTREACH - TRANSPARENCY & AUTHENTICITY

The Australian Influencer Marketing Council (AiMCO) is the foremost industry body that combines the expertise of revered industry professionals, marketers, and content creators, committed to elevating best practice for influencer marketing. Become familiar with the AiMCO Influencer Marketing Code of Practice to encourage the adoption of appropriate industry standards – to instil transparency and build trust across all engagement initiatives.

The influencers we engage should be aligned to the brand’s key pillars and values. Seek out admirable content creators – storytellers that create narrative-driven assets that can be repurposed across your brand channels. Build enduring partnerships to create authenticity and showcase a consistent journey that effortlessly conveys ‘brand love’. Embrace diversity and inclusivity, and understand that the influencer’s audience is attuned to their unique aesthetic and voice. The content brief (with inclusive mood board) should articulate the brand deliverables, but also provide creative autonomy, or the content will otherwise appear contrived and deter engagement. Don’t be dismissive of micro-influencers – numbers can be deceiving. Some of the most sought-after ‘big guns’ are entertaining too many brands – the content overkill will blanket your brand, as opposed to making it shine. The return on investment also needs to be considered with due care. ‘Break bread’ with the newcomers – the ones that are making selective partnership decisions. Invite them into the family, share the heritage and excite them about the vision. As their loyal community grows, so will yours.

About: Nikita Papas is an established PR and Communications specialist who has garnered 15+ years within the beauty, fashion, advertising, and publishing arenas. Previously engaged with L’Oréal, the world’s largest beauty company, his impressive brand portfolio included La Roche-Posay, Kérastase, Redken 5th Avenue NYC, and SkinCeuticals. An experienced Beauty, Fashion, and Lifestyle Editor and Creative Director, Nikita understands how both media and consumers digest and share content, and the value of creating an addictive customer experience. His current freelance PR and Communications role sees him connect with the most enviable fashion and beauty brands, media tastemakers, influencers, and creative agencies.

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On the road to recovery The attention-worthy trends and intriguing fragrance figures for 2021. By Clayton Ilolahia, Communication & Evaluation Consultant, Fragrances of the World In this final quarter of 2021 we are seeing a robust industry rebuilding after an extended period of uncertainty. As the world attempts to move on from COVID, the impact of lockdowns and travel restrictions has kept fragrance retailers of all sizes on the back foot. The way forward is clearer than it was in 2020 and full recovery will be a marathon, not a sprint. Earlier this year we reported a downturn of -35% for first quarter fragrance launches and that gap is beginning to close. Our year-to-date comparison with 2020 is currently down -21% but there is some way to go before we see a return to pre-pandemic numbers. The downturn in prestige fragrance launches is the largest, showing little change since the beginning of the year. Niche continues to drive the industry: while its numbers aren’t exactly booming, the segment continues to play a pivotal role in maintaining the health of the industry. Total fragrance launches: January to September

2021

1733

-21% YTD 21 vs 20

2020

2198

2019

-25% YTD 20 vs 19

2931

Launches by distribution: January to September

Niche

Luxury

Prestige

Other

-22%

30%

-33%

-17%

2021

755

311

585

2020

967

465

703

2019

1264

549

1043

2021 v 2020 Growth

Pitti Fragranze was held in September at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence.

KAREN MARIN AT PITTI FRAGRANZE

“The pandemic may have forced us all to live and work differently, but in no way has it stifled the passion, energy and creativity of the artisan fragrance world. At Pitti this year, gourmands and ouds were dominant, along with white florals and green compositions where the interpretation of cannabis kept raising its unruly head. Brands are behind the eco-friendly-sustainability movement as evidenced by Essential Parfums, pH Fragrances, and Place des Lices. Less is more and the emphasis is on ingredients and ethical practices. “Sleeping Beauty legacy brands Ciro (1921), Cherigan (1929), and Farmacia SS Annunziata dal 1561 emerged from a renaissance, renewing their identity with contemporary packaging and modern scents. In contrast, a rebellious, avant-garde vibe was

THE RETURN OF TRADE SHOWS

Trade show events contribute significantly to communication in the fragrance industry, in particular niche brands which rely less on the use of advertising in mainstream media. Trade shows are the launchpad for new ideas and new fragrances. The absence of these events in 2020, at the height of the global pandemic, was noticeable. As a result, many launches were postponed or cancelled. Some brands chose to launch new fragrances in a virtual way. Understandably, the industry is delighted by the return of events such as Pitti Fragranze in Florence, Beauty World in Dubai and the Tax-Free World Association World Exhibition & Conference in Cannes. Although our Australian-based team did not have a physical presence at events this year owing to Australia’s international travel restrictions, our usual work of recording information on fragrances launched at these events was completed virtually with the help of our Paris-based colleague Karen Marin, who attended in person. Karen’s long experience at Sephora USA and Givenchy proved to be exceptionally helpful. 80| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

Pitti Fragranze is one of the world’s leading fragrance trade fairs.

Melodie de L’Amour by Parfums Dusita on show at Pitti Fragranze.

The Louis Vuitton Les Extraits Collection.

FRAGRANCE

embodied by Hedonik, Bel Rebel and Step Aboard - sure to appeal to the Gen Z consumer. “Brands were exploring the experience of being human. Neanderthal took me on an olfactive journey into humanity’s past, which lives in us today and guides us to the future. Memoize’s perfumer was inspired by the Seven Deadly Sins and the Seven Heavenly Virtues. “Representation came from a diverse range of cultures and brands attended from all areas of Europe and the United Kingdom, Armenia, Syria, the UAE, and Russia: Fragrances of the World indeed!” ATTENTION WORTHY TRENDS FOR 2021

Fragrance expert and author Michael Edwards and our team of evaluators have noticed the extension of trends we identified last year. In 2020 we saw a growing number of fragrances with dominant green notes and a focus on personal wellness. This trend has expanded to a sense of wellness for the planet. Sustainability in the fragrance industry is a hot topic. Last year’s comfort scents included soft, powdery notes that gave a feeling of nostalgia. This year we are noticing an increase in gourmand notes, which have become more sophisticated, avoiding any reference to the candy store. SCENTS AND SUSTAINABILITY

The demand to be sustainable is influencing several shifts in the fragrance industry. As consumers become more engaged in sustainable living, brands need to be more transparent about ingredient and packaging sources. It’s more than just a race to zero waste. Perfumers are also looking for new ways to formulate. Shorter formulas with fewer, high performing ingredients that are sustainably sourced not only reduces the carbon footprint of a fragrance, but the future of the fragrance is better insured when ingredients are from renewable sources. Matiere Premiere perfumer and co-founder Aurélien Guichard says: “The beauty of perfumery very much lies in the raw materials. The quality of an ingredient is given by the environment, the climate, the soil, and the expertise of the growers and people who are extracting the oil. We give priority to fair trade, and organic sources. It needs to be a win-win situation, and a partnership with the people we buy our ingredients from.” Radical Rose contains an overdose of organic rose absolute from roses grown and harvested on Guichard’s family farm in Grasse. 2021 examples of the trend: • Matiere Premiere – Radical Rose • Henry Rose – Flora Carnivora • Clean Classic - Sunshine

Radical Rose by Matiere Premiere.

Flora Carnivora by Henry Rose.

Amouage Exceptional Extraits.

long-lasting scents on the market. Eau de parfum is the new eau de toilette and brands are pushing concentrations to their limits with extraits, elixirs and more intense versions of their best sellers. Louis Vuitton’s latest launch is a collection of five extraits de parfums which perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud says: “I L’Artisan Parfumeur wanted to venture where no one goes anymore. Passage d’Enfer Extreme. I wanted to reinvent the notion of an extrait in a contemporary way. I wanted to deconstruct the very architecture of perfume.” In October, Omani luxury brand Amouage launched four Exceptional Extraits, concentrated versions of its best-sellers. 2021 examples of the trend: • Louis Vuitton – Les Extraits Collection • Amouage – Exceptional Extraits • L’Artisan Parfumeur – Passage d’Enfer Extrême GROWN-UP GOURMANDS

Gourmand scents have developed a reputation for being comfort scents for a young, generally female audience but we are seeing the style reinterpreted in a more sophisticated way. Connotations of toffee apples and cotton candy are being replaced with more novel accords of praline, exotic fruit and woods. Australia’s Goldfield and Banks’ latest launch is the brand’s first gourmand fragrance. Sunset Hour pairs Australian sandalwood with an accord of native dessert peach, or quandong. Firmenich perfumer Honorine Blanc used gourmand notes with warming benzoin and cashmere woods to evoke the experience of sunset on Australia’s west coast. 2021 examples of the trend: • Goldfield & Banks – Sunset Hour • BDK Parfums – Velvet Tonka • Maison Christian Dior – Vanille Diorama

Clean Classic Sunshine Eau de Parfum.

EXTRAIT TO THE POINT!

Although less is more is a popular adage, consumers still demand performance from their fragrances. They need to be tenacious and diffuse well. Social media calls them ‘beast mode’ fragrances and there are plenty of online reviews dedicated to finding the most

Goldfield And Banks Sunset Hour.

BDK Velvet Tonka.

Vanilla Diorama is a new perfume by Dior.

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Scent Master David Frossard has an incredible ‘nose’ like no other. The creative director of fragrance at P. Frapin & Cie and founder of sustainable luxury perfume brand Obvious, David spends his days creating fragrances that are elegantly enthralling. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the humble and passionate father-of-two, who is also a motorcycle rider and avid boxer, to find out more about the fascinating Frenchman. HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE THE CHE GUEVARA AND THE MIKE TYSON OF THE PERFUME WORLD?

I didn’t know that I was! To tell the truth, I would say that is not 100 per cent true as I am so small facing these two giants. In fact, the proximity with those two great people comes from the way they lived their passion; my goal is not the money or the power but passion and emotions. That is the essence of perfumes, to drive emotions. I like adventures, I enjoy boxing and like Che Guevara I am fond of motorcycles. I read The Motorcycle Diaries where he told his story about his trip in South America. You need to be passionate to create great fragrances nothing great has been done without passion.” HOW AND WHEN DID YOUR PASSION FOR FRAGRANCES BEGIN?

Like a lot of us, by smelling my grandfather’s fragrance, Pour Monsieur de Chanel. He was extremely chic and impressive but fun and cool at the same time. I guess he was my role model at that time. WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB?

I sold perfumes in Africa through the Duty-Free shop and through 82| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

Obvious is David Frossard’s luxury perfume brand that is environmentally responsible, including caps made from wine-cork production cut-offs.

airline sales, as well as some local markets. I learned that perfumes are not just French, but each culture has a specific link to olfaction (sense of smell). YOU STUDIED PHILOSOPHY AT UNIVERSITY – HOW HAS THIS HELPED YOUR ROLE TODAY?

When I was studying philosophy, I had to read very difficult books, where I couldn’t even understand the first page. I knew I had to persevere to learn. It’s the same with fragrance - I knew when I started my career that I was not going to pick it up straight away, but that after lots of hard work I would eventually understand all

FRACGRANCE

facets of the job, from the perfume chemistry to production and legal agreements and so on. HOW DID YOU BECOME CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT FRAPIN?

I was doing a conference at the ISIPCA (Institut supérieur international du parfum, de la cosmétique et de l’aromatique alimentaire) school of perfumery in Versailles. I assumed most of the attendees were studying perfumery, but was surprised to meet the master blender, referred to as a ‘Maître de Chai’ and CEO from Frapin Cognac. When I enquired as to why they were there, they explained to me that a master blender for cognac worked much like a perfumer. Cognac is essentially a brandy, known in French as “an eau-de-vie de vin” and is made using a complex blending process undertaken by a master blender. A single cognac can be blended from multiple grapes, zones, and harvests from different vintages and ages. The master blender uses his nose, much like a perfumer, as well as taste to make the composition. They wanted to discover more about the world of perfumery. They invited me to Segonzac, their production place near Cognac, and I discovered the fabulous world of cognac. We decided that it was an amazing source of inspiration to create fragrances. YOU’VE CREATED SOME FAMOUS FRAGRANCES – WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITES AND WHY?

Paradis Perdu by Frapin because it is the most fabulous vetiver (vetiver smells dry, earthy, woody, leathery and smoky). WHAT ARE YOUR SOURCES OF INSPIRATION WHEN CREATING A FRAGRANCE?

It depends. Usually, I take inspiration from the Frapin family stories but also from what drives me; this includes boxing, motorcycles, the father and son relationship...

TELL US ABOUT YOUR GENERAL CAREER HIGHLIGHTS?

Being Export Director of L’Artisan Parfumeur at 27, creating my company at 32, launching my first perfume brand Frapin at 35, creating Liquides Imaginaires at 40 and today, at 48, creating Obvious with a new vision for beauty. WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST ‘FAILURE’, AND WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM IT?

I am divorced, my ex-wife and I are good friends today and we know that we didn’t have what it takes to stay together after 20 years of marriage. I learned that there is no more complex paradox than this one: “You often hurt people you love.” But I also learned that you must fight for happiness. I am happy today, but this happiness is at a cost. You have nothing against nothing. Life is like a boxing match against yourself ! WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE WANTING TO PURSUE A CAREER LIKE YOURS?

WHAT’S YOUR SIGNATURE INGREDIENT?

I don’t have one, but I hate sweet notes, I hate dihydromyrcenol, which is in all bad masculine fragrances, but I love vetiver and incense.

You are not working for your boss or for the money, but for yourself, you are working Checkmate is the latest fragrance to learn. Life is a lesson and I love to learn, to from Frapin. create a company, to raise money, to sign agreements, to develop fragrances. There are many possibilities to learn and to WHAT MAKES A ‘GOOD’ FRAGRANCE? become better. I would like the young people to have this perception Like a good book or a good movie, something that does not to try to of their job and in life in general. make money or is too commercial. A good fragrance tries to express WHO ARE THE THREE PEOPLE WHO HAVE BEEN THE MOST a true style, a vision of beauty. INFLUENTIAL TO YOU?

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL WEEKDAY LOOK LIKE TO YOU?

I wake up at 7am, and take care of my boys, who are 10 and 12. I take them to school, then start work. During lunch time I box, then I have meetings with a perfumer, or customers, or store visits. I go home on my bicycle at around 7.30pm and help my children with their homework, then quickly cook something for dinner, then have a glass of wine and a read a good book or watch a movie. WHERE DO YOU SEE THE FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY HEADED?

It’s always heading in the same direction, unfortunately. Easy consumption, fast selling, bad perfumes.

My mother, my father and Baruch Spinoza (a Dutch philosopher). WHAT DOES YOUR DAILY ‘FRAGRANCE ROUTINE’ LOOK LIKE?

I always wear the new fragrances I am working on, one day Frapin and the next Obvious!

Frapin and Obvious fragrances are distributed in Australia by www.agencedeparfum.com.au

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AINSLIE WALKER TALKS

Niche Fragrance News Summer Fragrance Update As this bumpy year in and out of lockdown across Australia comes to a close, we continue to find entertainment and escapism through fragrance and even events featuring fragrance. Events, exhibitions and cinematic experiences, which tickle the senses and take us into next level sensory entertainment, are being well received and a welcome relief from being locked inside our homes. DAY TRIPPIN’ - PHOTOGRAPHY AND SCENT EXHIBITION IN BOWRAL Artist Ben Quilty’s new art gallery, Ngununggula, is located in Bowral, which is 1 hour and 20 minutes drive from Sydney. It opened in October with an exhibition from award-winning artist Tamara Dean: Hijinks in the Hydrangeas. Spread across four beautiful halls of the architecturally designed, historic buildings, Tamara’s work depicts her experience through both the bushfires and Covid-19, and for the first time features herself as the subjects in the works – all created during lockdowns. Incorporated in the exhibition are moving images and sculptures. Along with the images are four fragrances created by yours truly, which interpret and highlight elements of the work and further enhance the experience. Tamara and myself have collaborated over the past nine years with exhibitions in the Art Gallery of South Australia and the UNSW Sydney. The exhibition will run until December 15, 2021. www.ngununggula.com PERFUME MAKING WORKSHOPS Perfume making workshops have recommenced in Sydney for small groups and 1:1 classes in my Marrickville studio and additional locations by request. If you have always wanted to make your own perfume, experience and smell the raw materials of the perfumer’s palate, or simply want to start the new year with a new skill and experience please contact me via my website. www.ainsliewalker.com 84| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

POWERHOUSE December 2021 sees the opening of exhibition Five Hundred Arhats, an inspiring installation by Kim Seung Young, which will run through to mid-2022. It features an additional sensory element of scent in an olfactory installation by me. The exhibit is a reflection of our hearts and inside you will see bricks inscribed with phrases of joy, excitement, resentment, fear, anger, and sorrow, while listening to a mixture of sounds coming from speakers that are stacked like a forest of buildings. Here you will encounter the genuine smiles, tears, and joy of the Five Hundred Arhats of Changnyeongsa Temple. A scent installation will transport you even deeper. “This installation, linking past and

NICHE FRAGRANCE LAUNCHES Peony Melbourne • A ward winning sustainable luxury brand from France, Atelier Materi, with a collection of six fragrances. Each fragrance is gorgeously presented with minimal packaging and a cement lid. The collection is available also in an exploration kit. • All natural Voyages Imaginaires from France, developed by two very renowned women in niche fragrance, perfumer Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal. Set out with a restricted palette of natural materials, shunning the molecules of modern perfumery and are based in organic wheat alcohol. The idea is to smell good, naturally. The box set is available and a great entrance point into the brand. Cellophane is biodegradable. The bottles are refillable and 100ml apothecary style bottles are available for this purpose. www.peonymelbourne.com

Poom which means in French slang to ‘break out’ – this is about breaking out of lockdown and reconnecting with friends, family and appreciating life to the fullest.

FRAGRANCE

present, will become a meditative space where people can focus on themselves and listen to their inner voices, if only for a short time,” said Kim Seung Young. www.maas.museum/event/fivehundred-arhats

New 2787 Perfumes – Flâneur Flâneuris also inspired by the Covid-19 lockdowns. It’s the second fragrance in the go line that is all about travel and exploration. In Barcelona, they had a very hard lockdown where for three months they could not go outside even for a walk. It’s a unique and impressive fragrance with Linden Blossom, Absinth and Almond Blossoms.

Mecca • From New York cult brand DS & Durga launches Grapefruit Generation EDP • Ellis Brooklyn Super Amber EDP • Diptyque Eau Rose EDP • Vilhelm Purple Fig EDP www.mecca.com.au

Memories of Mediterranean summers Maison Rebatchi released Jasmin Satin in October by Perfumer Karine Dubreuil. The fragrance evokes Mohamed’s memories of Mediterranean summers and it offers a taste of the essence of joy: a feast for the senses as intense as it is subtle. Karine said: “Jasmin Satin is a figurative exercise interplaying two varieties of Jasmin from India and Egypt. Like painters blending colours, Mohamed and I mixed together our most fabulous memories of the Mediterranean to create this fragrance. The two jasmines have a very delicate nocturnal freshness that comes to life with the touch of voluptuous gardenia and wood. To us, Jasmin Satin evokes that magic moment when the blue of the sea sparkles and shines, penetrating the shade of the great cedars in an explosion of scents.”

T2M distribution Crayon Parfums from Sweden – launched in September in Australia, a brand from Niclas and Christine Lydeen who were the creators behind Agonist parfums, now discontinued. Price points are accessible and scents are easy to wear. 50ml EDP are RRP $132 and their Fragrance Flight Set (to make you travel in your mind) contains 3x 10ml of Sand Service, Vanilla CEO and Passport Amour, RRP $99.

Naomi Goodsir’s – Corpus Equus Long awaited by fans of the brand, Corpus Equus is a leather fragrance inspired by Naomi’s favourite horse named Tequila. The perfumer is Bertrand Duchafour. It is a contemporary vision of a horse smell, animalistic and elegant with a foot in the past and the other in the present, it’s also the expression of a black colour with all the shades of light, such as a Pierre Soulages Outrenoir painting.

Inspired by Lockdown and ‘Break Out’ New Maison Matine – Refresh Collection. Launched in September, inspired by the united experience of Covid-19 lockdowns across the world. Lost in Translation was created when hard lockdowns were in place. Then Nature Insolente was made after craving nature and the beauty of Mother Earth. Finally we have Poom

COMING SOON:

Andrea Maack – Lightsource and Entrance, two new fragrances from the Icelandic artist to be launched officially in 2022. More details on the above brands or if you would like to stock these brands from niche perfume distributer T2M, more information at www.t2msensory.com RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |85

Jingle Tills The ultimate Christmas presents that need to be stocked on your shelves.

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Protect and Perfect Set www.elizabetharden.com.au

Burt’s Bees Unwind Lip Duo www.burtsbees.com.au

Cure Cancer The Big Hug Box https://thebighugbox.com

Circa Pear & Lime Hand Care Duo Set https://circa.com.au

Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream Set www.sephora.com.au 86| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

Real Techniques 12 Days Of Glow Calendar https://realtechniques.com

CHRISTMAS Jurlique Hydrating Mist Trio Set www.jurlique.com.au

Weleda Skin Food Indulge & Restore Gift Pack www.weleda.com.au

1000Hour Brow Babe Gift Pack https://1000hour.com.au

Kiehl’s Holiday Limited Edition Advent Calendar www.kiehls.com.au

Boost Lab Supercharged Skincare Power Pack https://boostlabco.com

Nude By Nature Daily Glow Complexion and Lip Collection https://nudebynature.com.au

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Why Summery Eyes are on the rise Celebrity Makeup Artist and Beauty Expert Michael Brown shares his top Do’s and Don’ts when it comes to making eyes pop this season. Warmer months are coming and after two years of lockdowns for a lot of the country, summer is coming in HOT! ‘Covid Skin’ was actually a thing, in a good way. With lockdowns in most of NSW and Vitoria, most of us had more time to spend on our skincare regime. It gave many a chance to experiment with new areas of skincare – sales of masks, devices and tools increased – I love this! But now we are all plump and hydrated from lots of ‘self care’ moments since last March, it’s time to let the eyes shine this summer and remind ourselves of some

important eye makeup do’s and don’ts. Plus, let’s see what’s trending in the eyemakeup category. EYES, BUT STILL SKIN

Firstly, just because I am focusing on eye-makeup here, doesn’t give anyone an excuse to forget about skin. We can’t let all that good work go to waste. As a makeup artist across fashion, celebrity and media, skin prep is so important for the success of any makeup, as is the correct complexion product textures and shades. Your eye makeup will pop so much more if your skin is even and correct in texture and tone.

Michael uses Ardell Naked Lashes for natural length and light density so eye makeup still shines through, especially when using coloured liner. (Image: @ mbrown_beauty)

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Michael made Nikki Phillips’ eyes pop with pink for this makeup look. (Image: @ mbrown_beauty)

Even though 3D eye makeup gives more structure, lift and shape to the eye, don’t forget to blend! It’s great to show colour difference, but edges are better when seamless.

If skin is too shiny or oily, tad blotchy with redness, or overly powdered and appearing dry, it will shift focus from the eye area. And this new season, we want the eyes to pop. Whenever I was on the retail floor and a customer’s focus was on eye makeup, I would always directly link back to concealer and then foundation. Concealer, for some (if not too light in texture and shiny) can act as an eye-shadow base for eyelids, plus it also can correct (in a warmer shade) then brighten (in a lighter shade over the top of correct shade) any dark circles that are present. This makes the eye makeup look clear and will pop with no other colour distraction around the eyes. After the concealer chat for a customer to consider, I would link back to foundation. The face needs to be the correct shade for a uniform look - it’s so important to link relevant products to the initial customer request. TRENDS

We’ve had lots of skin trends thrown around, such as glass skin and even dolphin skin. With so much love going into skin care lately, our makeup looks have become skin focused with more love going into primers, concealers and skin that looks like skin – I am all for this. But these glowy, glassy and metallic trends we are seeing on the skin are now so important to introduce to the eyes. It’s crucial to consider placement and balance for eye-makeup success. We will always have some that love the ‘over-made up, super heavy, one dark

DO’S & DON’TS FOR SUMMER EYES

Do’s • Always ask the customer the level of shade density they currently wear. • Map out eye area and see where they need highlight to bring forward and shade to recede. • If someone is used to wearing a ‘one toned’ shadow combination, introduce a highlight or metallic shade in a different, contrasting shade to their eye colour for more pop. • Use a minimum of two shadow shades on the eye to create more dimension, preferably three shades for best results. • Always use matte shades where ‘lift’ is needed, usually at outer eye and socket area, this includes inner eye socket for a sculpted effect. • Only use highlight/metallic shades on light pop points of the eye, such as inner tear duct, under peak of brow and mainly low on central mobile eyelid for a 3D effect. • Brows are a part of eye makeup, so include brushing up or filling in gaps when completing eye makeup. • Always discuss the benefits of creating an even skin tone to avoid eye makeup

INFLUENCER

shadow eye-makeup’ look, but I feel most consumers are now wanting structure and definition, especially at the upper outer eye line and the socket for a ‘lift’. Many more are embracing a different tone and even a highlight/metallic shadow finish on the upper central mobile eyelid, that give a sectioned look to the eye, for ultimate dimension. When applying a highlighted or metallic shade on the mobile eyelid, it is totally enough to only place low, close to the lashes centrally. A highlighted/metallic finish pulls focus, so using these finishes minimally works best. That way, the other parts of the eyes, mainly the eye socket area, is matte which will give a sculpted effect. Another trend is lashes. We’re seeing long and feathered, rather than thick and bulky. This reminds me of eyeliner – when liner is smudged into the eye area it often opens up the eye much more than a one dimension, block liner. With makeup as a whole giving off a ‘meant to be there’ or ‘lived in’ vibe at the moment, a softer, separated, feathered lash is more eye opening than overly chunky lashes. I still love using individual false lashes for this exact reason over strip lashes, as they are more customised to the person’s eye look, than what can sometimes look very obvious in strip lashes.

Some of Michael’s favourite eyeshadow palettes. (Image: @ mbrown_beauty)

ALWAYS REMEMBER

getting lost or not popping – concealer and/or foundation is needed for a high quality eye makeup look. • Blur primers under skin for a smooth finish and setting sprays are a godsend in warmer months to keep makeup fresher for longer. Don’ts • If a customer is only used to wearing particular tones on their eyes, don’t erase these completely, use what they are used to and slowly introduce new shades to give more ‘pop’ • Do not assume a person understands the importance of highlight and shade, as this determines ALL placement of eye shadow tones and finishes. • Avoid doing eye makeup under down lights or harsh overhead lighting, try to have front-facing light to get the true structure of their eyes in view. • Don’t apply a lot of highlight, especially metallic. Shades are better applied with fingertips to avoid flicking fallout with brushes. Don’t then allow the fingertip to place light reflecting highlight shades on areas that actually need matte tones, like a puffy or heavy eyelid for example. • Even though 3D eye makeup gives more structure, lift and shape to the eye, don’t forget to blend! It’s great to show colour difference, but edges are better when seamless. • Try not to match your eye shadow tones to your eye colour, this will give no contrast and therefore the eyes (and colour) won’t pop.

• E ye makeup is about balance, structure and lift. • The shades you choose can really make or break your look, no matter how beautifully they are applied. • Less is often more, but playing with light and shade and a hint of metallic is perfect for the warmer and summery festive season ahead.

• D on’t over makeup the brows. Instead fill in any gaps and brush up for an eye framing effect. • Don’t let dark circles, redness or blotchy skin take focus away from eye makeup, if possible conceal and even out for better results.

By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |89

Breakup Makeup

Dating experts and therapists agree that learning to love yourself again after a breakup is essential to healing and moving on. Wellness guru Olivia Ferrari shares her top post-breakup self-care products and practices.

How often do you get a text or call saying “It’s over”? Your heart sinks for your friend whose voice is breaking at the end of the line. And you too have been there. With the stress of the world’s circumstances, it seems so many of us are breaking up. SO how can we console that friend, customer or heart-broken self ? Being exposed to the cosmetics industry my entire life as Retail Beauty (formerly esprit) magazine founder’s daughter, Andrea Ferrari, I love to lean upon the valuable tools laid before me in times of crisis: BEAUTY PRODUCTS. Here’s a quick fix to move from feeling unloved, unpampered and fizzled-out to fresh, vivacious and ready to start the next chapter of your heroic life. I have listed 90| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

some of my favourite products to get you thinking, but if you have tools at home, on counter or are on a limited budget, work with what you have and remember in this instance indulge yourself. You deserve it. SCRUB

Tie your hair back and set yourself up in a warm, essential oil-scented bathroom. The warmth factor is important in your selfsoothing. Do what you have to do to make sure this step is complete before starting your regime; it will help relax your muscles and adds to the indulgence factor. FACE – Using both your ring fingers apply Himalayan Charcoal by The Body Shop. Thank me later. This has to be the best facemask in history; my skin glows like

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TAN

St Tropez or Bondi Sands. Enough said. Take your time in applying and always use an application mitt.

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REPLENISH

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In my friendship group I am known for always being covered in oil of all sorts. Once you have let your tan dry over a few minutes, start to moisturise your skin. FACE – Everyone needs to splurge on a decent moisturiser. It takes time to find the right one for your skin, but once you find it, stick with it until the effects no longer work. There is no one-size-fits-all and our skin is constantly changing so what works beautifully today may not give the best results in several months’ time. I always say if you do not see results in the advised time period, then keep looking. My favourite combination is Trilogy’s Vitamin C Booster Serum and Votary Face Oil. You’re welcome. BODY – Here’s where I am going to cheat and let you in on a little secret. I frequently use Rice Brain Oil from Woolies or Coles on my body or a decent coconut oil. It’s absorbable, good enough to eat and always leaves my skin so soft. If you want to go a little more luxe without busting the budget, I have sentimental value with Mor’s Body Butters. You simply can’t go wrong with Mor.

brands which I am sure you have on hand already…pun intended. BEAUTIFY

INFLUENCER

nothing before after use. Discard step if you have active acne – as in my experience less is more, and each touch spreads more bacteria. Let your skin rest. BODY – While the facemask does its thing, start with your toes and end at your décolletage. If you need some product ideas drop into Mecca. I love a good coffee bean scrub: Frank Body and Soap & Glory have some crackers.

Here’s where all previous steps are so darn important to having you feeling fabulous before you can even say the word ‘foundation’. Think of all previous steps AS the foundation leading up to picking up any makeup brush or applying your favourite lipstick. Feeling great always requires preparation and if you have followed the above steps in order, your makeup regime is just the icing on the cake. At this point I am sure most of you are happy in your normal routine but if you are looking for something new your best bet is to head down to MAC, Mecca, Myer or shop online. I love Too Faced Born This Way concealer, it is life-changing. I also swear by Guerlain’s eyebrow kit that remains in my kit since I worked with Erika Hall, who became my mentor, at Cosmax in 2013. Talk about longevity. I also use Dior’s Backstage Contour Palette, Benefit Cosmetics Posie Tint, Christian Dior’s Blush Final and Covergirl’s Clump Crusher Mascara. I trust that by now you feel like a whole new human and ready to kick that heart break to the curb, for your one true self, friend or client. Finally – and most importantly. You do you boo.

BLOW DRY

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Depending on the tan you have chosen, you may need to Netflix and chill before you can take the next step. Wait until you are good to go and remember *patience is required*. Now extra time with your hair is always a good thing. In this humidity a little anti-frizz serum goes a long way - thank you John Frieda! PAINT

01. The Body Shop Himalayan Charcoal Purifying Glow Mask.

02. Bondi Sands Liquid Gold Self Tanning Foam, Dry Oil and Mitt.

03. Trilogy’s certified natural Vitamin C Booster Treatment.

04. Too Faced Born This Way Super Coverage Concealer.

05. Covergirl Lashblast Clump Crusher Mascara.

If you don’t already have an immaculate set, it’s time to paint those nails. Sally Hansen, Burberry, Essie, O.P.I – so many fabulous

Olivia is an English-born qualified masseuse, meditation and yoga teacher, based in Sydney’s inner west, running Olivia Ferrari Wellness. For bookings and more information: www.oliviaferrariwellness.com ph: 0424 046 301 fb: @oliviaferrariwellness RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021 |91

Have you met... NICOLE ‘PINKY’ THOMPSON

Nicole ‘Pinky’ Thompson’s artistry has graced the pages of magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, and catwalk shows that include Moschino, Balmain, Romance was Born and Vivienne Westwood. Michelle Ruzzene sits down with the author, self-confessed rule breaker and Global MAC Cosmetics Senior Artist to talk all things makeup. YOUR CAREER HIGHLIGHTS?

HOW DID YOU GET INTO MAKEUP?

Watching my grandmother apply her lipstick - she was always so glamorous and never without her lipstick or eyebrows. From that, I fell in love with makeup. I played and played on my own face, and my friends’ faces, and got in trouble constantly at school for working harder at my eye liner than my science projects! I finally decided to make it a career move after a passing comment from my then boyfriend, now my husband, nearly 20 years ago. He said to me: ‘You love doing it so much, why don’t you think about it for a job?’ That was it. It was tools down on my merchandising and decorating, and straight into learning all areas of makeup at the Australian College of Makeup and Special Effects ((ACMUSE) in Sydney. I fell in love with this boundless world of creativity. WHAT DOES A TYPICAL DAY LOOK LIKE?

There is no typical day. And that is what I love, my career has been anything but boring. Every day is a new job, new client, new team, new location, new makeup brief, a new page in the book and a new challenge to undertake. 92| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

I have been extremely lucky, and in the last few, very strange years we have lived, I am so grateful for the experiences I have had. Makeup has taken me around the world. I have said yes more than no and I have been delighted to jump into every opportunity and see what happens - good or bad! I have felt like Charlie in the Makeup Chocolate Factory. Some highlights are: teaching makeup to performers at Cirque De Soleil in Japan, creations going beyond the face to body art for huge events and photoshoots, presenting makeup trends and masterclasses for artists and media, writing, shooting and publishing my first beauty book internationally, working as Global Senior Artist for MAC cosmetics and working at international fashion weeks around the globe for 10 years. MOST REWARDING PART OF THE JOB?

Beauty should be all about feeling GREAT. When the person in my chair feels amazing it is infectious, and it changes the way they perform. I love it. I know I have done a great job when a model doesn’t rush for the makeup wipes and they wear the makeup home. IF YOU WEREN’T IN BEAUTY, WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU?

Interior styling. I am obsessed with interiors. I love to decorate. I would love to style houses to sell or design rooms and interiors to shoot for editorial. And less professional, you wound literally find me in my garden, repotting, propagating and trimming. This is my quiet happy place. WHO IS YOUR BEAUTY ICON?

Iris Apfel. At 100 years old, she still has abundant style and even more sass. ‘When we were small children, we

PINKY’S TOP PRODUCT PICKS 03.

1. Kevyn Aucoin Lash Curler 2. MAC In Extreme Dimension Waterproof Mascara 3. Sisley Le Phyto Rouge Lipstick in Rose Delhi 4. Lanolips 101 Ointment

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all played dress-up and everyone had a good time. So why stop?’ Ain’t that the truth! ANY ADVICE TO BUDDING MAKEUP ARTISTS?

Spend time to hone your makeup application skills yes, but they are only 50% of the job. The other 50% is your personality, work ethic and your unique take on beauty that makes you stand out from the rest. Hone your skills in networking, creativity, assisting, building your reference library and knowledge, your speed in application and your kindness to make you wellrounded and someone who will be re-booked. ONE PRODUCT YOU COULDN’T LIVE WITHOUT?

Oh lord! How difficult! Ok, lipstick. For me it is the most multipurpose product in my kit. Lips, cheeks, and eyes. Wear it heavy, sheer it out, press it on. So many options. My favourite is a classic red like MAC Ruby Wool or Pat McGrath lipstick in Elson. THE WORST MAKEUP FAUX PAS?

Listening to rules. Gah, HOW BORING! Beauty and makeup is all about self expression and feeling GOOD, it’s amazing what a slick of makeup can do for your mood. Go with your instincts. Stop saving things for a special occasion and have fun with your look. Now is the time for that red lipstick!

INFLUENCER

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an opaque perfected finish, and will last the day and night. A thick coat of anything will just slide around and sit on top of your skin. THOUGHTS ON SOCIAL MEDIA?

You have the control, it is an amazing tool to be used to show yourself, to show what you can do, your portfolio and who you are, it can also be an amazing source of income if that is your passion. Making sure to remember that it is not real life, it is owned by someone else and it could all go away in a second is the most important part of what you control. Try to keep a balance between what is online and your actual skills and real life. LIFE MOTTO?

The time is NOW. Be yourself, everyone else is already taken. BOOKS YOU HAVE WRITTEN?

Yes! Woohoo! A career and life achievement. Making it Up - Makeup Minus the Rules. I wrote and shot with my friend Steven Popovich and was published internationally with New Holland Publishers in 2019. I can now have the title Author in my bio and I am so happy about it!

YOUR TOP MAKEUP TIPS?

Don’t bother spending lots of money on a mascara without having a good eyelash curler. Seriously. If you haven’t got one, go out now and get one. I have lost count of the amount of clients that sit in my chair apologising for their short lashes. You don’t have short lashes, you just haven’t curled them so you can’t see them. Life changing. Layering makeup is the secret to longevity. Think of makeup (foundation, lipstick or eyeshadow) like getting your nails done professionally. Sheer layers build up for

Iris Apfel.

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BRAND NEWS

L’Occitane Australia unveils its first global Green Store L’Occitane Australia have converted their Westfield Bondi Junction boutique into a fully functional ‘Green Store’. It’s a worldwide first for the brand, who worked closely with the Green Building Council of Australia (GBCA), to create the 5-star Design Review rated premise. New features include a Refill Fountain, a feature that has been rolled out in selected L’Occitane boutiques in the USA, Europe and Asia. This offers consumers the opportunity to refill selected products in their ‘Forever Bottles’, which are made from long-lasting, lightweight and 100% recyclable aluminium. The machine also features a pulsed light sterilisation system, which is calibrated to hygienically dispense the right amount of product refill selected. Another key feature is the living Green Wall with an integrated irrigation system that will act as a natural air-filter whereby the plants help metabolise toxins in the air, while simultaneously releasing oxygen. https://au.loccitane.com

Sephora’s first Perth store opens The first Sephora location in WA opened its doors in Karrinyup in October. Scott Nugent, AMP Capital’s Divisional Investment & Development Manager, said he was thrilled that Sephora opened Perth’s first store at the new look Karrinyup. “We know our customers are looking for a retail experience they won’t find anywhere else and welcoming Sephora has been key to cementing Karrinyup as a retail destination of choice,” he said. The French specialist beauty chain debuted its first Australian store in Sydney’s Pitt Street Mall in 2015. The Perth opening took its number of stores in Australia and New Zealand to 24 - in addition to nine in NSW, four in Queensland, one in South Australia, six in Victoria and three in New Zealand. Perth’s store opening has been years in the making and was the most requested location, revealed Beth Glancey, General Manager of Sephora Australia and New Zealand. “Over the past six years we have been building up our beauty community in Perth, delivering the best brands and new launches via our e-commerce platform and searching for the perfect brickand-mortar location, and this Karrinyup store is it,” she said. “Our Perth clients no longer have to buy before they try – they get to experience life inside a Sephora store - beauty services, self-discovery, better brows and clean beauty.” www.sephora.com.au

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Sisley Paris goes nude Sisley’s latest foundation, Phyto-Teint Nude, meets a fresh challenge: to provide coverage so light that it gives the appearance of bare skin. With its sheer texture, this light and undetectable waterinfused foundation evens out the complexion for naturally perfect skin. Available in 16 shades it hydrates, energises and vitalises skin to leave the complexion effortlessly enhanced. The fine, airy and ultra-natural phyto-teint nude leaves a veil on the epidermis that corrects blemishes without disguising the texture of the skin, leaving it looking as fresh as ever. Along with the foundation, Sisley launched Phyto-Khol Star Waterproof Mat. Designed like fine-tipped pens with retractable lead, the waterproof liners are available in a matte, metallic and glitter finish. Featuring a very long-wearing formula with intense, vibrant pigments and a high concentration of microfine glitter, the soft and silky texture has the perfect glide. www.sisley-paris.com

BRAND NEWS

RoC on with retinol The first brand to ever stabilise retinol has launched in Australia. RoC is America’s most awarded retinol brand and their Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Cream is America’s number one Retinol Eye Cream. It’s a brand of firsts – the first brand to launch hypo-allergenic skincare products in 1957; the first brand in 1960 to bring broad spectrum UV protection to market and in 1996, the brand to ever stabilise retinol – an ingredient which is still considered to this day as the gold standard when it comes to anti-ageing. Since launch, the brand has been perfecting and protecting their pure retinol formulas with over 100 clinical studies, 75 safety studies and 35 patents on their products. Available exclusively at Chemist Warehouse. www.rocskincare.com

Maybelline rolls out 40 shades of foundation In a major step towards a more inclusive and representative approach to cosmetic retailing in grocery, all 40 shades of Maybelline New York’s Fit Me Matte & Poreless foundation are now available online from Woolworths and Coles and in select stores nationwide. Suitable for oilier skins, Fit Me Matte & Poreless foundation has been available in Australia since 2018. Georgie Inch, Woolworths Beauty Category Manager, says that Woolworths is now stocking the full range of Maybelline New York’s Fit Me Matte & Poreless shades on its online store as part of a trial available in 500 suburbs in Greater Sydney and Greater Melbourne. Coles is also offering the full 40 shades of Fit Me Matte & Poreless both online and in select stores nationwide, says Jonathan Torr, Coles General Manager of Non-Food, Health and Home. Alexandra Shadbolt, Marketing Director for Maybelline New York, says that a wider range of foundation shades was previously limited to expensive foundation offerings and we are excited to be able to offer affordable and accessible solutions. “We are also looking forward to doubling our Fit Me Dewy & Smooth foundation range in Australia from 12 to 24 shades in early 2022, which we are hoping will also be available on the shelves at both Coles and Woolworths,” she adds. www.maybelline.com.au

Tanologist revolutionise tanning Tanologist has launched into Priceline two of their most innovative products to date - the 360 Spray Tan Mister and the eco-friendly Self-Tan Water Refills in Medium and Dark. The 360 Spray Tan Mister re-usable 360-spray nozzle provides a long, continuous, lightweight stream for a streak-free and flawless application. The ergonomic design means more glow in less time, as well as a fuss-free application. The continuous and ultra-fine mist works from all angles, ensuring even the most difficult places to tan are reached for an all over, full body glow. Tanologist wanted to introduce a more sustainable and time-effective way to tan, so they created the Self-Tan Water Refills that uses the same formulation, to simply fill the mister with. www.priceline.com.au/brand/tanologist

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BRAND NEWS Ecoya Celebration Collection - reimagined The Celebration Collection was inspired by the most special occasions. First introduced in 2014, and quickly becoming one of the brand’s most coveted collections, it has been reimagined for 2021. Presented in refined new packaging, this collection features a luxe gold foiled ribbon detail, wrapping around the carton, while inside the celebration continues, revealing a monochromatic-geometric print. The collection is housed in deco inspired cut glass vessels and features the highly sought after Celebration Collection fragrance, White Musk & Warm Vanilla. A fresh, romantic and sophisticated scent, White Musk & Warm Vanilla pairs tropical citrus notes with a rich floral heart and a creamy base of vanilla, sandalwood and musk, rounding out the most opulent and sensual scent. The collection features the Grand Celebration Candle, the Celebration Candle, the Mini Celebration Candle, as well as two new offerings in the collection, the Celebration Diffuser, which features black reeds and a Celebration Hand Cream, also in a sleek new black tube. www.ecoya.com.au

Matte Burberry kisses Burberry Beauty has revealed the next chapter in the Burberry Kisses collection, the Matte Lip Colour. Designed to make an impact that lasts, the new matte texture brings a classic finish to the existing collection of Burberry Kisses. Each shade is now available in a luminous matte, enriched with hyaluronic acid for comfortable wear and packed with pigment for an intense colour pay-off. The enriched formula helps keep lips hydrated for up to 24 hours while staying in place for up to eight hours. Each shade in the collection is infused with a fresh rose scent for a total sensory experience. Burberry Kisses Matte Lip Colour comes in 20 shades, presented in new gold packaging etched with the Burberry check. https://au.burberry.com 96| RETAIL BEAUTY SUMMER 2021

Time to get glowing Boracay Skin is an Australian company, founded in 2015, that specialises in natural coconut-based vegan products that make skin shimmer and stay hydrated. They recently launched the Boracay Skin Hyaluronic Glow Serum, a new facial serum that promises to nourish and hydrate the skin, while also providing a gradual bronze glow. The serum contains natural ingredients such as coconut fruit powder paired with anti-ageing actives such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide to keep skin looking plump and glowing. The gradual tan is an added bonus as it means a bronzy glow with little to no make-up. The use of hyaluronic acid helps the glow serum give users a natural-looking skin pump up. The addition of coconut fruit powder provides hydration and removes inflammation. Niacinamide and vitamin C both repair sun damage and help protect the skin from future damage. Boracay Skin Hyaluronic Glow Serum is suitable for all skin types including acne-prone skin. It can be used in conjunction with other anti-aging products, including retinoids. https://boracayskin.com

BRAND NEWS

Smells like sunset Goldfield & Banks explores new olfactory territory with Sunset Hour, a spirited floral-woody perfume with heady tropical flourishes contrasting with luxuriously tactile woods and golden-hued gourmand notes. Featuring an exclusive Australian botanical desert peach, also called quandong, Sunset Hour is an olfactory interpretation of Broome’s famed pastel-hued sunset. Designed in Australia, Goldfield & Banks is Australia’s first luxury collection of gender-free fragrances featuring exceptional pure and rare native Australian essences and oils unexplored in modern perfumery. Fragrance notes - desert peach Australia (quandong), mandarin Italy, raspberry, jasminum sambac absolute, ginger Nigeria, pink pepper Madagascar, sandalwood Australia, cashmere wood, benzoin Laos. www.goldfieldandbanks.com

Enhanced formulas in eco-friendly packaging Klorane has launched enhanced formulas in eco-friendly packaging for its best-selling liquid hair collection. Klorane Shampoo with Quinine, Conditioner with Quinine and Serum with Quinine contain quinine that has been cultivated in Ecuador using techniques that respect the surrounding ecosystem. The quality of each plant harvested is controlled in accordance with Botanical Expertise Pierre Fabre specifications. The bark is collected by hand, and its key ingredient is concentrated in the form of a patented natural extract, which delivers hair strengthening properties. All three products are also enriched with B vitamins, biotin and caffeine to help strengthen and revitalise weak, thin and lifeless hair. Organic Edelweiss from the Swiss Alps is added to deliver an effective boost to the improved formulas. All are eco-designed in recyclable bottles and have been made wholly or partly from recycled plastic. www.klorane.com

CeraVe holds third #SkinChat CeraVe hosted a Cleansing #SkinChat to launch the Hydrating Foaming Oil Cleanser. TikTok sensation and leading US dermatologist, Dr Muneeb Shah, sat down with Australian dermatologist, Dr Ryan De Cruz and CeraVe’s Medical Communications Manager, Rachel McAdam, to delve deep into expert tips for cleansing skin. Formulated with CeraVe’s iconic three essential, skin-identical ceramides, the new cleanser , developed with dermatologists, also combines plumping hyaluronic acid and, as a CeraVe-first, skin-similar lipids: squalene oil and triglyceride. As lipids make up a major part of the skin’s natural barrier, these plant-derived ingredients help to lock in and maintain moisture for supple, flexible skin. In line with the existing CeraVe range, the Hydrating Foaming Oil Cleanser is free from fragrances, soap and parabens and is pH balanced, non-comedogenic, and is allergy and ophthalmologist tested. The new cleanser joins CeraVe’s existing range of cleansers, including the Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser, Hydrating Cleanser, Foaming Cleanser, and SA Renewing Cleanser, offering solutions for a range of skin types and skin concerns. www.cerave.com.au

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Brand

index

1000Hour, 9 https://1000hour.com.au ANC, 22-23 https://a-n-c.com AvoBaby, 7 https://avobaby.com.au Bathefex, IBC www.bathefex.com.au Billie Goat, 39 www.billiegoat.com.au Boost Lab, 20-21 https://boostlabco.com

Cyplex, 24-25 www.cyplexaustralia.com.au DermaGen, 16-17 https://dermagen.net.au EcoTools, 47 https://ecotools.com.au FERMIO, 51-58 www.fermio.com.au Rapid Loss, 29 https://rapidwellness.com.au SheaMoisture, Front and back cover, 10-11 www.sheamoisture.com.au Skin Physics, IFC, 3 www.skinphysics.com.au Ulta3, 5 https://ulta3.com.au Weleda, 34-35 www.weleda.com.au

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BATH & BODY BLISS Celebrate the ritual of bathtime relaxation and calm body, mind and senses with spa-inspired essentials for everyday.

bathefex.com.au

WE ARE NATURAL, SUSTAINABLYPRODUCED GOODNESS Cruelty-free hair and body care made with natural, certified and fair trade ingredients, and love.

ww www.chemcorp.com.au w.chemcorp.com.au DISTRIBUTED BY CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL