YOUR RESOURCE FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN RETAIL BEAUTY
67 AUTUMN 2021
100% Certified Natural & Organic Skincare
Interview
Laurent-Emmanuel Saffré of Pierre Fabre Group
Skintellectuals The Trends Boosting Skincare
Cha-ching TOP TIPS FOR UPSELLING AND CROSS SELLING
Secret Product Picks PRICELINE BUYERS BEAUTY MUST-HAVES
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EDITOR’S LETTER There is no doubt women are better off today than they were in previous years. We are still far from being equal with men in the work force - a recent Oxfam report revealed that women still receive 34 per cent less wages than their male counterparts - but there have been huge, positive changes for females that our grandmothers, and even mothers, could only dream of. The late Japanese writer Ryunosuke Satoro famously penned the quote: “Individually, we are one drop. Together, we are an ocean.” When women support each other, incredible things can happen. Personally, I have been fortunate enough to have had the luxury of working (mostly) with supportive women throughout my career. Women that have not competed with me, but instead collaborated, nurtured and mentored me, and their fellow female colleagues. Helping women to feel valued and celebrated was personified recently at an event hosted by Australian luxury clean hair care brand Original & Mineral (O&M). The invitation called for female industry leaders and entrepreneurs (still not sure how I made the cut, but I happily went along anyway) to participate in a session at a glam suite. I was joined by esprit publisher Nicci Herrera. Guests were pampered by having their hair and makeup done by professionals, before being styled in a designer dress – I chose Oscar de la Renta - before being photographed, in front a wind machine no less. Each attendee could then take home their new head shot, which is the one I have updated here in this magazine.
4| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
Power of the pack Jose Bryce Smith, the O&M founder and CEO, said at the event “I always love celebrating women”, and that “women need to support each other”. It was a lovely day, not only because of the champagne and canapes, but because it was so powerful being in a room of female entrepreneurs who were just so…. well…. nice. It was inspiring to see how Jose had partnered with women and businesses aligned with her values for the event. These included Elise Vaughan Creative Direction & Design, photographer Liz Ham and Tanya Perrilli from Fashion Alta Moda. “There are so many statistics about what it would to do the world economy if women actually reached their potential,” Jose said at the event. Of course, there are still a lot of hurdles preventing women from reaching their potential. As a mother-of-two, I am all too familiar with the almost crippling childcare fees being just one obstacle – at one point, my entire wage was going towards paying for my two daughters to go to day-care. But all in all, the day was a beautiful example of empowered women empowering women. This issue, I wanted to highlight the work of our stellar line-up of women contributors. Andrea Ferrari, esprit founder, writes about overcoming your old self and becoming a new version of you on page 56. Her daughter and yogi, Olivia, shares her top tips for detoxing your mind on page 58. Elisabeth King, associate editor business features, has written her usual incredible mix of features to ensure you stay up to date with the latest in beauty business
news. These include our cover story about Weleda celebrating 100 years in operation (page 10), the need-to-know trends boosting repair and detox skincare (page 12), an interview with Pierre Fabre Group’s Laurent-Emmanuel Saffré (page 16) and Talking Point (page 23). Influencer Icy Ling shares her tips for looking incredible in front of a camera on page 74, while fragrance expert Ainslie Walker shares the latest niche news on page 46. We catch up with Billie Jean Read, who started off sweeping the salon floor, but today is brand educator for MCM Beauty. More on page 82. This issue, we have introduced themed photo shoots, shot by the incredible photographer Brandee Meier. Check out which products made the cut on pages 22, 37, 39 and 45. And with Covid-19 restrictions easing, In & Online has once again reverted to Out & About. Learn about the latest product event launches on page 48. I hope you enjoy reading this first issue of 2021.
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YOUR RESOURCE FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN RETAIL BEAUTY
67 AUTUMN 2021
issue
67
Contents Subscribe to esprit Magazine Australia’s online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips and more. www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au
100% Certified Natural & Organic Skincare
Interview
Laurent-Emmanuel Saffré of Pierre Fabre Group
Skintellectuals The Trends Boosting Skincare
Cha-ching TOP TIPS FOR UPSELLING AND CROSS SELLING
Secret Product Picks PRICELINE BUYERS BEAUTY MUST-HAVES
EspritMagazineAustralia
100 Years of Connecting People with Nature Many products claim to be natural but don’t stand up to scrutiny in an era where consumers are demanding more transparency about the products they put on their skin. Weleda is celebrating its centenary year by highlighting its biodynamic farming and planet diversity principles. Weleda has always focused on its responsible farming and sustainability methods and biodiversity in the soil, but has also made great strides in packaging. www.weleda.com.au
@espritmagazine
Previous issues
4
Editor’s Letter
6 Contents
52 Pharmacy News
8 Contributors
55 WELLNESS
10 Cover Story - Weleda
56 B raving Your New World – Andrea Ferrari
12 Trend – Detox and Repair
Contact details esprit Magazine Australia Founder, Commercial & Creative Consultant Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au Publisher and Commercial Manager Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au Editor Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 (0)402 277 286 E: michelle@esprit-magazine.com.au Art Director Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au MAILING ADDRESS esprit Magazine Australia P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$. Articles that appear in esprit Magazine Australia may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in esprit Magazine Australia are not necessarily those of the publishers. Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of Intermedia Group 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583
48 Out and About
16 I nterview - Laurent-Emmanuel Saffré, Head of Oceania region and CEO at Pierre Fabre Group 18 Nude by Nature’s latest launches 22 B eauty Shoot – Cult Makeup Must-Haves 23 T alking Point - How Changes to Technology, Service and Dealing with Consumer Expectations Will Impact the Beauty Industry in 2021
58 L et’s Detox Your Mind Too Olivia Ferrari 60 BUSINESS 61 Online Beauty News 64 Buyers Lists – Priceline 66 M y Journey – Nikita Papas, Digital Content and Communications Manager at L’Oréal 68 T raining for Business Performance
30 5 Minutes with VitaMan’s Tim Cahill
69 INFLUENCER
34 Industry News
72 Back to Basics – Michael Brown
37 B eauty Shoot – The Ultimate Shelfie
74 A Checklist of Looking Prettier on Camera – Icy Ling
39 B eauty Shoot – Hair and Tanning Essentials
76 Brand News
45 B eauty Shoot – Best Fragrances of All Time 46 Fragrance News - Ainslie Walker
70 Aussie Made
78 B eauty & the Best – The Art of Upselling 81 Makeup How To – Max May 82 Have You Met… Billie Jean
Environmental statement: The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody. PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.
Contributors
Founder
Commercial & Creative Consultant ANDREA FERRARI
One of her proudest professional moments was winning Beauty Directory’s first-ever Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism in 2011 peer-voted recognition. Andrea founded esprit Magazine Australia in 2004 coming from a heritage of founding the original Esprit in the UK in 1987. Armed with a diploma in Fashion Journalism from the London College of Fashion, Andrea completed her journalism training on the job at IPC Business Press on the leading weekly trade magazine, Hairdressers Journal. In the late 70s, London’s print and fashion industries were both hotbeds of creativity and Andrea cut her teeth as a writer and interviewer in the company of accomplished mentors. Becoming editor of Beauty Counter, the UK pharmacy trade journal, she learned the power of the pharmacy assistant in the customer-to-purchase relationship. In 1987 Andrea fulfilled a gap in the UK market for a trade magazine for the retail beauty industry. Emigrating to Australia in 2003, she created esprit for the Australian market.
Associate Editor
Business Features
AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014. Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com.
ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the bestselling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010. She is also the beauty editor of House & Garden magazine and a weekly columnist for beautydirectory.com.au.
EMILY BENCIC As deputy editor of Appliance Retailer and editor of Retailbiz within the Intermedia Group, Emily has more than five years of experience writing about the local and global retail industry, as well as the appliance and technology sectors, covering the latest news from big brand retailers.
ICY LING Ni Hao (which means ‘Hello’ in Chinese). My name is Icy Ling, known as icybutterfly. Some people think I am an Australian Chinese influencer. Actually, I work for an East Coast, well recognised - high fashion, lifestyle and beauty magazine (to local Chinese), called ‘Indulgence’. After working in retail, evolving to become a blogger and freelance editor, I have now become a senior fashion and beauty editor, also leading the magazine’s digital team – busy, but I am truly grateful for being able to work for my passion.
ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments. 8| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
OLIVIA FERRARI Olivia is an English-born medium, masseuse and yoga teacher, based in Sydney’s inner west. Olivia has a customised approach to each individual client’s mind and body wellness derived from learnings she has gained from her studies and experience in Cambodia, India, Byron Bay and Sydney.
MICHAEL BROWN Growing up as a dancer , Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of makeup artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as Marc Jacobs Beauty Ambassador.
BRANDEE MEIER Brandee began her photography career straight out of high school and has been shooting beauty products and fashion flatlays fore more than 20 years. Brandee has worked for a variety of brands on their advertising and product shoots including editorial work with Napoleon Perdis and Jane Iredale, is an expert at portraits and model shots, and has dabbled in numerous stepby-step make–up application shoots. Brandee shoots all of the beauty product pages for esprit, as well as esprit’s sister publications including Instyle and Professional Beauty. www.brandeemeier.com.au
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A Century of
Innovation – How Weleda Pioneered Natural Beauty from Niche to Norm by Elisabeth King The global natural and organic beauty market was on a massive roll before the Covid-19 pandemic fast-tracked consumer interest in wellness. Grand View Research predicts that worldwide sales in the sector will reach US$48 billion by 2025. A far cry from Weleda’s beginnings 100 years ago but one thing hasn’t changed. The Swissheadquartered company has remained at the forefront of the natural beauty category by never wavering from its founding philosophy: “In harmony with nature and the human being”. A mission statement that highlights the fact that Weleda’s history is not typical of a personal care company. The brand was founded in 1921 by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, Dutch doctor Ita Wegman and German chemist Oskar Schmiedel on the principles of anthroposophy - a then-groundbreaking idea that a biodynamic approach to health and skincare based on natural ingredients can stimulate the body’s own healing processes. Today, Weleda’s iconic range of moisturisers, serums, bodycare, babycare and natural medicines are sold in more than 50 countries, including Australia. AUSTRALIAN BUSINESS GROWING STRONGLY / HIGHLIGHTING SUSTAINABLE FARMING AND BIODIVERSITY
David Johnston, CEO of Weleda Australia, has helmed the company since the brand’s debut here 13 years ago. A lifelong health enthusiast, his 30-year career also includes seven years as 10| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
CEO of Go Vita Distributors, Australia’s largest wholesale and retail health store group. We have built up the local business bit by bit, mainly through health food stores like Go Vita, David Jones, online retailers such as Adore Beauty and Nourished Life and more recently Priceline, he says. “We debuted our Skin Food franchise in Priceline last year, which opened up a broader base. Skin Food first launched in 1926 and is a global bestseller with one tube sold somewhere in the world every 16 seconds. It’s not just Weleda’s integrity and biodynamic and organic principles that take their cue from our founder, Rudolf Steiner. One of his other major aims was to make quality, natural and organic products affordable and widely available as well.” Many products claim to be natural but don’t stand up to scrutiny in an era where consumers are demanding more transparency about the products they put on their skin. Weleda is celebrating its centenary year by highlighting its biodynamic farming and planet diversity principles. We have always focused on our responsible farming and sustainability methods and biodiversity in the soil, but we have also made great strides in packaging, says Johnston. “By the end of the year we want to have 65 per cent of our plastic packaging made from recycled materials. Our aim is to try and get to the highest recycled content of our plastics. Already over 80 per cent of our glass bottles are made from recycled glass and we use mineral
THE BIODYNAMIC DIFFERENCE / AUTHENTIC CERTIFICATION
Many beauty and personal care companies today are making changes to their supply chain management and sustainability practices. But all of the ingredients used in Weleda’s products are either grown and produced by the company or through partnerships around the world with farmers, distillers, universities and NGOs using biodynamic and organic farming techniques. “When our employees, partners and others visit our farms they are amazed and gain a new understanding why biodynamic agriculture is key to our success,” says Johnston. Biodynamic agriculture is similar to organic farming, but also includes concepts like soil fertility, plant growth and livestock care. It’s part of Rudolf Steiner’s original vision to stop industrialising the land, says Johnston. “The core idea that makes biodynamic different to organic is that the method concentrates the bacteria in the soil. Producing 100 per cent natural ingredients using the right farming methods not only locks nutrients back into the soil, it also helps the communities we deal with to build schools and earn a living wage. Fair trade practices have become more important to consumers as they look for greater transparency.” Weleda has eight biodynamic farms of its own in Europe, Brazil, Argentina and New Zealand. All of the brand’s products are certified by NATRUE, a globally recognised quality seal of approval for natural and organic products. Weleda is also one of only two natural skincare brands to be certified as a member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT), a global standard for sustainable sourcing introduced in mid-2018. We are also very proud of our initiative to help support Australia’s native bees with our Bee B&B Hotel project, says Johnston. “To date, more than 100,000 children have taken part in the project, which teaches primary school children about biodiversity and the importance of pollinators by building ‘bee hotels’ for their school kitchen gardens.” GROUNDBREAKING NEW PRODUCTS / REACHING OUT TO CUSTOMERS
Weleda remains a leader in the natural beauty category because it’s methods and philosophy are as modern and relevant as ever. Weleda’s main customer base in Australia is aged from 25 to 45, says Johnston. “They are big fans of Skin Food, as are celebrities such as Victoria Beckham, makeup artists and models. The product keeps winning awards around the world, which really is a testament to how much consumers enjoy this product. But they also love our bestselling franchises, notably pomegranate. We expanded the
COVER STORY
oil-free inks. We also offer TerraCycle collection to our customers free of charge.”
range recently with Firming Facial Oil, targeted at customers aged 40plus. The entire range contains active ingredients to promote cell renewal, increase hydration and improve skin tightness and elasticity. The Firming Facial Oil contains eight organic plant oils including pomegranate seed, argan, macadamia, apricot, jojoba, safflower, sesame and avocado to deliver anti-pollution, moisturising and skin energising benefits.” Key products such as Skin Food date back decades, but Weleda has a continuous R&D program to develop new groundbreaking products. Nature is remarkable but human intervention such as a new distillation or extraction process can intensify natural benefits, says Johnston. “Another exciting release in the first quarter of the year is a new range based on Mexican prickly pear extract. Weleda spent several years perfecting a way of obtaining prickly pear extract in a unique patented process. The range has received great feedback overseas where it already launched and has proven claims in providing 24-hour hydration.” As part of its 100th anniversary, Weleda is also launching a worldwide campaign to promote its best-selling calendula babycare range, including a digital campaign, sampling and several collaborative partnerships. The brand launched the award-winning range in Priceline at the end of last year, following on from the success of its Skin Food debut. Made from extracts of hand-picked organic calendula, the lineup includes a nappy change cream, shampoo, body wash and body lotion and a stretch mark massage oil for mothers - during and after pregnancy. Weleda believes that communicating with its customers and attracting news ones is paramount and the company has been very active in getting its message across through a revamped website, brand education in-store and online and digital campaigns. Through its newly launched, digital ‘Open Garden’ platform Weleda invites consumers to experience nature from the palm of their hand. Users are invited to explore Weleda’s garden, stopping along the way to watch interactive videos or listen to stories from Weleda’s community of suppliers and experts. From bees to holistic healthcare, the Open Garden is a rich and engaging source of information about nature and the pivotal role it plays in all our lives. “We were around before Scan the natural and organic beauty QR code to became trendy and we want experience the interactive to be around for another 100 Weleda Open years”, adds Johnston. Garden.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |11
CLEANICAL, SKINTELLECTUAL AND DERM
The Trends Boosting Repair and Detox Skincare by Elisabeth King
The Covid-19 pandemic dramatically changed beauty habits and purchasing worldwide. E-commerce, hygiene and self-care topped the agenda of consumers, with skincare emerging as a key beneficiary. According to Euromonitor International’s Annual Beauty Survey 2020, 21 per cent of skincare consumers globally have become digital shoppers and 41 per cent are looking for personalised solutions. Major and niche brands have risen to the challenge as the skincare market has become increasingly fragmented and overcrowded. The concept of clean beauty has also evolved with the intensification of the skin-first approach to beauty. Until recently the focus was on products free from potentially harmful ingredients and many clean beauty products still follow this trend. But a new breed of high-performance skincare products dubbed Cleanical have become major drivers of growth. ASTRONOMICAL GROWTH / SKINTELLIGENT CONSUMERS
According to the NPD Group, clinical brands such as L’Oréal’s SkinCeuticals account for the largest share of the prestige skincare category at 34 per cent. Within that percentage, cleanical products that blend clean and clinical now represent 20 per cent of overall sales in the US, the world’s largest single beauty market. They are growing astronomically says Larissa Jensen, vice president of beauty at the NPD Group. Cult brand Augustinus Bader, for example, has garnered headlines overseas and in Australia for its effective products containing the signature molecule - TFCC8 which are also paraben, fragrance and mineral oil-free. According to CEO Charles Rosier, we are trying to create this unicorn where you don’t have to compromise on the ingredients to have science and efficacy. Azelis, the global speciality chemicals distributor with a subsidiary in Australia, has identified Skintellectual skincare as one of the top four personal care trends in China, the world’s second largest beauty market. Linked to the growing demand for more healthconscious skincare, Chinese consumers are building an extensive knowledge in terms of ingredients and composition, says Laurent Nataf, CEO and President, Asia/ Pacific for Azelis. “They are looking for ingredients with proven scientific benefits to cope with the challenges of our environment, such as pollution, stress and ageing.”
12| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
REPAIR IS THE CORNERSTONE OF MODERN SKINCARE
Skincare isn’t a category where trends suddenly emerge because of the amount of R&D and clinical tests required to create effective solutions for a wide range of skin issues from sensitivity to eczema. The focus on protecting and repairing the skin’s stratum corneum has been a major endeavour for decades. Referred to as the “barrier function of the skin”, when it is weakened irritants, allergens and bacteria can find their way in and cause inflammation, itching and further damage. The stratum corneum also ensures that the skin’s own essential moisture content doesn’t evaporate. When its barrier is healthy, the skin’s surface is smoother, clear and balanced. Using too many creams, serums and aggressive products can lead to a damaged skin barrier. A major reason why there has been a rise in the use of skincare with ingredients and humectants that provide benefits to the stratum corneum such as ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and shea butter to name a few. Repair is the cornerstone of modern skincare, as exemplified by Estee Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair, launched in 1982 as “new era in skin repair”. Nearly 40 years later with regular updates to the formula, ANR, as its legions of fans call it, remains a global blockbuster. To punch home the message that ANR remains a gold standard of skin repair, it became the first beauty product to leave the planet in late September on board a NASA rocket heading for the International Space Station. La Roche-Posay, one of the world’s leading dermocosmetic brands, recently launched Toleriane Ultra Dermallergo Serum in Australia. The fast-acting product contains Neurosensine to soothe sensitive, allergy-prone skin and the discomfort caused by wearing face masks for extended periods. The aqua-gel formula also incorporates Osmolyte to help strengthen the skin’s barrier. Used in combination with Toleriane Ultra Cream Sensitive Moisturiser, the result is intensely hydrated and protected skin. INTEREST IN DERM BRANDS ON THE RISE / TOPICAL VITAMINS
Estée Lauder also kickstarted the growth of dermatologist brands with the launch of Clinique in 1968. The trend is still growing strongly and speciality chains such as Sephora and Mecca are full of derm-based brands, including Dr Dennis Gross, Dr Barbara Sturm, Perricone MD, Peter Thomas Roth, Ole Henriksen and Biossance. Dermocosmetic brands such as Eau Thermale Avéne and La RochePosay are also strongly recommended by dermatologists and have a major focus on skin repair, not only with ingredients but also with their respective proprietary thermal spring waters. The Covid-19 pandemic has re-booted the growth of derm brands and also allowed the professional skincare market to double-up as salons worldwide switched to Zoom and FaceTime consultations and increased their online sales. A leader in boosting skin immunity, now a hot niche, is Dr Murad, the derm brand acquired by Unilever in 2015, soon after the multinational’s buyout
TREND REPORT
The Chinese anti-ageing market is dominated by international brands, especially in the prestige sector, but that is changing fast. Merck, one of the largest pharmaceutical companies in the world, for example, recently entered a strategic agreement with Pechoin, the number one Chinese-made skincare brand to produce a new product range - the Zhenyan anti-wrinkle repair series. The hero anti-ageing herbal ingredient, ProVTA, was developed jointly by Merck and Pechoin in conjunction with top specialists in dermatological research from Asia, Europe and the US. A joint statement from both companies claims the new range is a special anti-ageing solution for Chinese women, designed to repair and strengthen the dermis layer to produce more radiant skin.
of Dermalogica. Dr Murad City Skin Overnight Detox Moisturizer is a breakthrough formula that neutralises pollutants and strengthens the skin barrier as you sleep. As we age, the effectiveness of our immune system, including the defence of our skin decreases and external factors weaken its function even further, notes Dr Murad. The topical applications of vitamins to combat environmental damage, already a major trend, has been given a further shot in the arm during the Covid-19 pandemic because they are one of the most effective ways to prevent ageing and treating existing skin conditions. Vitamin C continues to be one of the most searched anti-ageing terms and the market is full of choice at all price levels - from Ulraceuticals Ultra C 10+ Firming Serum through Natio Treatments Vitamin C Skin Brightening Serum, Trilogy Vitamin C Boosting Serum and even an own brand Vitamin C & Hyaluronic Acid Night Serum from Kmart priced at only $6. FACE MASK BOOM CONTINUES
The booming face mask category has also been at the forefront of the repair and detox trend and the global facial sheet market is expected to reach US$450 million by 2024. Many companies are investing heavily in R&D to develop new face masks that tackle blemishes, wrinkles, pores, discolouration and sagging. Leading natural brand, Yes To, has added a Yin & Yang Detoxifying Detoxifying and Hydrating Black and White Charcoal Paper Mask to its Yes To Tomatoes line. Rodan + Fields, the number one skincare brand in the US, with two million customers in the US, Canada and Australia, debuted The Recharge Detox Mask in early 2020. The latest addition to the brand’s best-selling Recharge Regimen, the product delivers immediate and longer term results. After four weeks of use, 100 per cent of respondents in clinical tests experienced more radiant and brighter skin. Sleep masks are still a bubbling trend. L’Occitane launched its new Immortelle Precious Night Mask in Australia in January to intensely hydrate and protect the skin from blue light exposure from smartphones and computers. Containing Immortelle essential oil, super aqueous extract and dynamic hyaluronic acid, which is twice as powerful as the regular type, the prestige French brand underlines that the skin’s own repair mechanisms are boosted overnight and recommends that the new mask be used with its bestselling Immortelle Reset Serum. MICROBIOME RESEARCH / NECK REPAIR
The cosmetics industry remains bullish on research into the skin’s microbiome, which is key to advances in products to treat acne and eczema. Recent research has also shown that nurturing the skin’s microbiome has promising potential in reducing or possibly reversing skin ageing. Much of the current hype centring on microbiome skincare comes from niche brands such as Mother Dirt, For the Biome and Gallinee, which attracted investment from Unilever in 2018 and is stocked by Mecca in Australia. Burt’s Bees, L’Oréal and Johnson & Johnson have also invested strongly in microbiome R&D to name only a few multinationals. As the Covid-19 encouraged consumers to take a step back from makeup and become more interested in skincare, the lighter and simpler look has shone the spotlight on the neck. Few areas show age faster than the neck and are more in need of repair because of the thinness of the skin. SkinCeuticals has taken up the challenge with its latest release Tripeptide-R Neck Repair - scheduled for launch in Australia in June or July. The product’s tri-functional corrective technology targets loose skin, horizontal neck lines and crepiness - the key signs of neck ageing. Featuring pure retinol at an optimised level, participants in a clinical study experienced a 27 per cent improvement in crepiness and a 16 per cent reduction in neck lines and skin elasticity. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |13
Harnessing the Power of Nature and Science LAURENT-EMMANUEL SAFFRÉ OF PIERRE FABRE TALKS ONGOING GROWTH, STRONG R&D, OFFLINE/ONLINE AND THE COMPANY’S GREEN MISSION by Elisabeth King
Dermo-cosmetic and naturally-based skin and haircare were already on a massive roll before the Covid-19 pandemic fast-tracked both categories. A 2019 report from Euromonitor International pinpointed skin health rather than beauty as a growing consumer demand, with 60 per cent of consumers looking for moisturising and hydrating properties, added vitamins for antioxidant and texture benefits and sensitive skin claims. The Pierre Fabre group is at the cutting edge of providing skincare and haircare products that protect and prevent against leading skincare concerns with its power brands - Eau Thermale Avène and Klorane. We are the second largest dermo-cosmetics laboratory in the world, says LaurentEmmanuel Saffré, Head of Oceania Region and CEO of Pierre Fabre Australia. “We are also the leader in terms of over-the-counter products sold in pharmacies in France and a world player in two major therapeutic areas - oncology and dermatology”. DOUBLE DIGIT GROWTH / STRONG RETAIL PARTNERSHIPS
Pierre Fabre’s global revenues totalled 2.4 16| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
billion euros (AUD$3.88 billion) in 2019 and the group’s products are sold in 130 countries. “Klorane and Eau Thermale Avene sales have enjoyed double-digit growth YTD October 2020 in Australia, according to IRI sales*”, says Saffré. “In Q3 2020, Klorane was the number one natural haircare brand sold in Australian pharmacies.” The majority of Australians now shop online, 84 per cent according to IRI analysis, he notes. “From March to June, there was a clear gain in shoppers doing more online shopping, but broad penetration growth opportunities still exist, especially among older consumers. At Pierre Fabre Australia, online sales and digital acceleration have been a strong focus over the past two years. Since the beginning for the Covid-19 pandemic, we have experienced triple digit growth in online sales.” We have developed strong relationships with our online retail partners to support further growth and have also seen a huge increase in click-and-collect sales, adds Saffré. “Dedicated promotional offers and increased content has been key to our successful e-commerce growth. But
we believe in an omnichannel strategy which fuses the best of offline and online. We continue to work very closely with both independent pharmacies and major banners, implementing strong promotional plans and merchandising activities to cover every touchpoint of the consumer journey.” HIGH LEVEL OF CUSTOMER SERVICE / INNOVATIVE NEW LAUNCHES
Pierre Fabre also rapidly adopted new strategies to reach out to its customers virtually during the Covid-19 pandemic, says Saffré. “We started weekly Instagram livestreaming, which covered different topics each time. It was a great opportunity to have a direct conversation with consumers and allowed us to answer their questions about our products. We also ran direct-to-consumer webinars, discussing new products and tips and tricks to make the most of our products. In addition, our training team conducted weekly webinars for beauty advisors and pharmacy staff to educate them on our product ranges and maintain a high level of service, which has always been at the heart of what we do.”
CUTTING EDGE RESEARCH / TARGETED AMBASSADORS
Nature has always been at the centre of the Pierre Fabre Laboratories model, says Saffré. “Our cutting edge plant research combines the expertise of botanists, agronomists, biologists and pharmacists. The accumulation of data from over 50 years of research, combined with an indepth knowledge of plants and mineral spring water have enabled us to market
hundreds of dermo-cosmetic products made with naturally-derived ingredients.” It is this marriage of nature and science through established, heritage brands, combined with local marketing communications, that strongly appeals to Australian consumers, he adds. “Our partnership with local ambassadors such as Turia Pitt, the best-selling author, athlete and motivational speaker, and Olympic swimming champion, Cate Campbell, has helped to build brand awareness in Australia, while maintaining our French medical heritage. Turia has visited the Avène Hydrotherapy Centre in France twice and Cate is a longterm user of our Avène sunscreen to protect her sensitive skin from the sun, following the removal of a stage one melanoma in 2018.” GREEN MISSION / ONLINE-OFFLINE FUSION KEY TO FUTURE
In early 2020, Pierre Fabre unveiled its Green Mission to confirm the company’s core identity and deep commitment to sustainable development and naturalness. “It’s a token of trust and transparency and shared values,” says Saffré. “In Australia, Qantas is a Future Planet Partner and we have been involved in the Bringing Back the Bush project in NSW and Queensland and Offset Project in the Northern Territory. We also encourage employee engagement in Citizen Day, assisting with the digitisation project at the National Herbarium of NSW. Other global initiatives include a commitment to eco-friendly packaging, environmental partnerships, shorter supply chains, the preservation of natural resources and much more.” Pierre Fabre encourages a green
approach at every level of the company. This happens through knowledge sharing, supporting dispensaries in their CSR initiatives, involvement in educating pharmacists about therapies, and getting employees involved in social and environmental initiatives, he says. “Dedicated to atopic dermatitis, the most severe form of eczema, the Eczema Foundation supports research, provides patients with information, offers care by developing specialised centres, and provides funding for clinical studies. Over 40 atopic dermatitis schools have been created in around 15 countries, including one in Australia.” Looking forward, Saffré believes that the shift to online sales will be permanent postCovid-19. “We are currently investigating to sell through additional digital channels, as well as providing even more online experiences such as innovative digital events and livestreaming on social media platforms. “But we believe that when the pandemic is over, the need for human connection will be greater than ever, which will boost conversational commerce. We will need to be closer than ever to our consumer and our patient and tailor our messages and information more accurately to fit their needs. We also believe that physical beauty retail will remain a key channel in the consumer journey, as long as it reinvents itself through click-and-collect and continues to provide expert beauty and professional healthcare advice at the point-of-sale”. * IRI MarketEdge Pharmacy Data YTD to 1/11/20. Excluding Avène Thermal Spring Water 300ml
INTERVIEW
2020 was a strong year in terms of new product launches for both Eau Thermale Avène and Klorane, he notes. “We launched a breakthrough product in acne management - Avène Cleanance Comedomed AntiBlemish Concentrate. A highly concentrated, fast-acting formula providing long-lasting clinical benefits with targeted dual action to effectively reduce and limit the reappearance of blemishes and blackheads and regulate the hyper-production of sebum. Containing our exclusive Comedoclastin™, a plantbased active based on milk thistle oil, results are impressive with 90 per cent clearer skin after only 7 days of use.” Another major success was the launch of the Avène A-Oxitive range, says Saffré. “Containing a unique form of Vitamin C Ascorbyl Glucoside - A-Oxitive products use gradual release technology which transforms Pro-Vitamin C to Pure Vitamin C when it comes into contact with the skin. Throughout the day, the Pure Vitamin C is gradually released for optimal efficacy, excellent tolerance and long-lasting antioxidant protection. This means that consumers get results equivalent to 15% Pure Vitamin C in a much gentler way, making A-Oxitive a true innovation for sensitive skin.” Klorane’s iconic Dry Shampoo with Oat Milk is the gold standard of dry shampoos and the brand’s hero product in Australia and other leading markets. “We introduced the Klorane Aquatic Mint Detox range recently,” he says. “Formulated with purifying, organic Aquatic Mint extract as a powerful antioxidant, this non-stripping lineup deeply cleanses and eliminates impurities from the hair and scalp and is clinically proven to de-toxify particle pollution and environmental residue.” Aquatic mint has a high polyphenol content, making it the species of mint with the highest antioxidant protection, adds Saffré. “We use aquatic mint that is organically farmed and harvested in southwest France - the home of Klorane. We obtain a 100 per cent natural extract from the plant without using water or solvents to preserve and optimise the mint’s natural properties, while reducing the carbon footprint by 72 per cent”.
FAST FACTS – LAURENT- EMMANUEL SAFFRÉ •L aurent-Emmanuel Saffré holds a Doctor of Pharmacy degree, as well as a Master’s degree in Management and Marketing from ESSEC, one of the leading business schools in France. •H e joined Pierre Fabre in 1996 and has spent most of his career in North America, implementing the Canadian subsidiary and managing the Americas and UK region. • I n 2012, Saffré was appointed CEO of Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique USA, overseeing the Eau Thermale Avène, Klorane, Glytone, Rene Furterer and Ducray brands. •H e moved to Sydney in 2019 as Head of Oceania Region and CEO of Pierre Fabre Australia to run operations for the Dermo-Cosmetic and Medical Care divisions across the Oceania region, including New Zealand and the Pacific islands. •T he Eau Thermale Avène brand originates from Avène, a small town in southwest France famed for its thermal springs since the 18th century. The Pierre Fabre Group acquired the town’s world-leading hydrotherapy centre in 1975 and launched the skincare brand in 1990. • The company has a unique business model and is mainly owned by a certified not-for-profit organisation - the Pierre Fabre Foundation. A structure which enables it to facilitate the training for drug and healthcare professionals and help vulnerable populations in poorer regions of the world.
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Have you tried Australia’s No.1 selling cosmetic product? Nude by Nature is 100% natural and 100% toxic free. Created in 2008 in Sydney, the brand was well ahead of its time when it was created from a demand by a society that was becoming more and more conscious of their health, lifestyle and environmental choices. Leanne Parodi, Head of Marketing at Nude by Nature, shares exclusively with esprit why 13 years on, the cult cosmetics brand continues to be Australia’s No. 1 mineral makeup brand, with one product sold every 19 seconds here in Australia. THE HISTORY: Launching with a capsule collection of just three natural mineral foundations, a bronzer, finishing powder and make-up brush in 2008, Nude by Nature quickly became a household name. The iconic Natural Mineral Cover foundation soon became the go-to make-up essential for millions of Australians, with the natural formula and high performance leading to incredibly loyal customers. Over the past decade, Nude by Nature has taken the time to expertly create an extensive cosmetic collection, with an assortment of categories, formulations, finishes and shades that deliver an endless array of flawless makeup looks, all without unnecessary chemicals, synthetic ingredients or preservatives often found in cosmetics. With Nude by Nature, there’s no compromise. NUDE BY NATURE’S PHILOSOPHY: In a world where everyone is striving for good - good food, good health, a good night’s sleep, our make-up should be good for us too. Nude by Nature is just that. It’s more than cosmetic, it’s good for you. “Since the brand’s inception, we’ve been 18| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
committed to delivering 100% naturally derived, cruelty-free makeup, formulated without unnecessary chemicals, synthetic ingredients or preservatives often found in cosmetics,” says Leanne Parodi, Nude by Nature Head of Marketing. With nature’s power on the brand’s side, there’s no need for harmful toxins and chemicals such as parabens, PEGs, phthalates, silicones,
Cult following: All original products launched back in 2008 are No.1 in their category today, which is a phenomenal result for a local Australian brand. • Natural Mineral Cover foundation is Australia’s No. 1 Face Powder* • Mineral Bronzer is Australia’s No.1 Face Bronzer* • Mineral Finishing Veil is Australia’s No. 1 Finishing Powder* • Nude by Nature is Australia’s No.1 Brush Brand*
sulphates, talc and bismuth, often found in cosmetics. THE RELAUNCH: The Natural Mineral Cover foundation was relaunched this month (February 2021). As one of the original make-up products developed in 2008, it has truly stood the test of time with sustained and overwhelming support. With a formula comprised of clean and natural ingredients, it’s no wonder that it is Australia’s No. 1 selling makeup product in dollar value, in the market. The Natural Mineral Cover foundation is not only cruelty-free, but entirely vegan. Dermatologist tested and suitable for all skin types – including sensitive skin and skin prone to breakouts, redness and pigmentation - the 100% natural formulas are lightweight, non-drying, fragrance and oil free. It’s the same trusted formula, with new luxe packaging. The natural pigmented powder is carefully packaged in a luxurious rose gold jar, complemented by a unique loose powder dispensing system, which results in minimal product waste during application and transportation. The flexible mesh sifter has been designed to allow the brush to effortlessly collect
FEATURE the powder and the lid locks in place to cover the sifter for mess-free travel and storage. The relaunch includes a diverse range of eight shades that allow for intuitive colour matching, sorted by an alphanumeric naming system: C1 Fair, W1 Light, C3 Light/Medium, N3 Beige, N4 Medium, W7 Tan, N6 Olive, N7 Dark. Plus, an extended shade range available on nudebynature.com.au. At the same time, the Natural Mineral Veil Foundation has been relaunched in the new rose gold packaging and a new range of Translucent Loose Finishing Powders have been introduced. The new Translucent Loose Finishing Powder collection now offers a fresh selection of shade options with soft hues perfectly suited to a wide range of skin tones, each delivering subtle radiance to naturally brighten the complexion for a lasting finish. 01 Natural (formally Natural Mineral Veil) is a universal, natural hue - suitable for all skin tones and any undertone. 02 Pearl is an ivory white hue - ideal for fair to light skin tones with neutral undertones. 03 Soft Rose is a rosy pink hue – suitable to fair to medium skin tones with cool undertones and 04 Banana is a golden yellow hue ideal for medium to dark skin tones with neutral to warm undertones. Enriched with native Australian Kakadu Plum known for its abundant Vitamin C content and Kaolin Clay to help absorb excess oil and shine, the feather-light formula softens the appearance of fine lines and imperfections for a radiant air-brushed look. INNOVATIONS IN TECHNOLOGY: The new, no-touch product testing Virtual Try On (VTO) solution, enables customers to
experience natural beauty like never before. The introduction of the VTO tool provides a safe, hygienic and enjoyable shopping experience without the aid of physical testers. Customers can try on products virtually from the safety of their homes, or in store from by simply scanning the QR code that will be visible on Nude by Nature POS, directing them to the VTO solution. Kristina Kunkel, Nude by Nature Director of Marketing and NPD said: “With the accelerated shift towards online and contactless shopping, we saw a great opportunity to innovate, launching a series of digital initiatives including our Virtual Try On (VTO) tool. While our traditional product innovation was put on hold for a few months, we’re pleased we could innovate in a different capacity, and give our customers a new way of engaging with the products and brand.”
Other online tools we offer our customers to assist in the purchase decision are the Foundation Finder, the Lipstick Finder and an online Brush Finder. THE FUTURE: Nude by Nature has continued to grow in popularity, range and distribution, expanding its success to New Zealand, UK, Europe, Canada, China and beyond, now being stocked by leading retailers across the globe. The brand will continue to innovate and offer customers new and exciting, 100% natural beauty alternatives that they can love and trust. *Data sourced from IRI MarketEdge based on data definitions provided by Nude by Nature. Australia Pharmacy; No. 1 Face Powder: Category: Face – Powder, Dollars and Units, MAT 26/01/2020. No. 1 Bronzer: Category: Face – Face Bronzer, Dollars and Units, MAT 26/01/2020. No. 1 Finishing Powder: Category: Cosmetics – Finishing Powder, Dollars and Units MAT 26/01/2020. No.1 Brush Brand: Category: Cosmetics Brushes – Brushes, Dollars and Units, MAT 26/01/2020. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |19
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Makeup Must-Haves
Bourjois Velvet the Pencil in Rouge Di’vin www.coty.com Inika Organic Radiant Glow www.inikaorganic.com Mavala Double Lash www.mavala.com.au Nude By Nature Mineral Finishing Veil in Natural www.nudebynature.com.au Lanolips 101 Ointment www.lanolips.com.au Carmex Classic Moisturising Lip Balm www.carmex.com.au Rimmel Lasting Finish Full Coverage Lightweight Foundation in True Ivory www.rimmellondon.com/en-au Garnier BB Cream www.garnier.com.au Napoleon Perdis Auto Pilot Pre Foundation Skin Primer www.napoleonperdis.com It Comsetics Brow Power Universal Brow Pencil www.sephora.com.au Revlon Colorstay Natural Finish Foundation in Sand beige www.revlonanz.com Burt’s Bees Beeswax Lip Balm www.burtsbees.com.au 22| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
Sally Hansen Hard as Nails Vitamin Strength Serum www.sallyhansen.com/en-au/ The Quick Flick Intense Black in Modest www.thequickflick.com.au 1000 Hour Eyebrow Mascara in Medium Brown www.1000hour.com.au Flower Beauty Petal Pout Lip Mask in Pucker www.chemistwarehouse.com.au Trinny London Lip 2 Cheek in Cha Cha www.trinnylondon.com/au/ Rae Morris Invisible Mattifier www.raemorris.com KVD Beauty Tattoo Liner www.sephora.com.au Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Lipstick www.charlottetilbury.com/au Natio Lip Colour Balm in Desert Rose www.natio.com.au Marc Jacobs Under(Cover) Perfecting Coconut Face Primer www.sephora.com.au Ciate London Dewy Blush Glossy Cheek Tint www.mecca.com.au Benefit Cosmetics The Pore Fessional Hydrate Primer www.benefitcosmetics.com/en-au
Photo Credit: Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au
All The Products Needed to Build the Perfect Makeup Collection
TALKING POINT
PARADIGM SHIFT
How Changes to Technology, Service and Dealing with Consumer Expectations Will Impact the Beauty Industry in 2021 byElisabethKing
The most talked-about topic during Covid-19 was the increase in online purchasing of beauty products. But plenty of other permanent changes have taken place that will influence the industry longterm. esprit talks to major and niche companies and brands on how the coronavirus crisis changed their business models and opened up new opportunities for the new normal. One of the biggest changes over the past year has been the incorporation of the “no touch, teach and coach” experience at our luxury brand counters, says Sarah Norton, Retail Excellence Executive Vic/SA/WA for Coty.
Sarah Norton, RETAIL EXCELLENCE EXECUTIVE VIC/SA/WA, COTY
“This approach allows our customers to safely learn about how to expertly use our products in a contactless manner. At the same time, we are introducing digital consultations through QR codes and apps to allow customers to find their perfect shade of lipstick, for example. Customers and beauty consultants alike can continue to interact and connect, which continues to be the most important element of the luxury beauty experience.” Ashley Gatt, Retail Excellence Manager ANZ for Coty believes that digital, sustainability, clean and good-for-you
Ashley Gatt, RETAIL EXCELLENCE MANAGER ANZ, COTY
ingredients, wellness and premiumisation and the consumer experience whether online or face-to-face or - more importantly - a mixture of both will be the focus for the beauty industry moving forward. “As we look towards a post Covid-19 world, consumers will be looking for seamless execution - from researching/ shopping online through brand immersion and in-store experience across all touchpoints. Over the next year, BAs will become key as consumers adjust to the ‘new normal’ and their ability to engage, uplift and inspire a consumer’s brand experience will see a faster return of customers to stores through positive experiences. At the same time, it is also going to be about how we look to incorporate digital into the experience - for example, virtual try-ons through iPads or QR codes that allow
consumers to try the products on their own device while seeking advice from our BAs.” BAS AS SOCIAL STARS/ OMNICHANNEL IMPERATIVE
Like many other companies, L’Occitane experienced a large shift in customers moving online, says Pierre-Emmanuel Joffre, General Manager, L’Occitane Australia. “Our e-commerce business
Pierre-Emmanuel Joffre, GENERAL MANAGER, L’OCCITANE AUSTRALIA
has seen incredible growth and is now the fourth largest e-commerce site for the global L’Occitane group. We’ve noticed a strengthening of our skincare business, as well as our home and hand care ranges, which showed that consumers were looking for self-care moments as well as wellwashed hands during the pandemic.” Covid-19 has completely forced us to re-look at our business and service model ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |23
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and forced us to be agile and adaptive and bring new services to our customers, adds Joffre. “We introduced Beauty Advisor Social Selling, leveraging our BAs in-store as social stars as a cross-channel strategy. Customers could still connect with our team, as well as experiencing a more personalised approach to what offers were available in-store and online. “Call & Collect and our Click & Collect service were introduced, particularly in the lead-up to peak shopping periods. Our Concierge delivery service proved to be extremely valuable when we first went into lockdown during Mother’s Day, which is a strong retail period for us, and during Melbourne’s second lockdown period.” As a brand that lives and breathes commitment, it’s important that our customers know that this will remain a priority even during these unusual times, says Joffre. “We are very proud of the partnership we established with the Foundation for National Parks and Wildlife earlier this year as a result of the devastating bushfires at the end of 2019 and beginning of 2020. The L’Occitane Foundation will contribute $230,000 to aid in planting one million trees in the bushfire-affected areas to ensure we act locally on our global commitment to protect biodiversity. We were also the first beauty brand to engage with TerraCycle Australia and have collected 10 tonnes of beauty waste to date.” The strong uplift in sales for L’Occitane across its skincare and home categories has been matched by a spike on consumption of our social media content, says Joffre. “January will mark the welcome start of a new year and we are excited to launch a number of new Verbena products to our range, as well as renew the focus on our recently launched Verbena Clean Hands Gel sanitiser. The purpose of the campaign is bright, fun, and a pick-me-up during summer, which is very welcome after the year we have just been through. We are also launching a new overnight mask designed to counteract the ageing effect of blue light damage.” As more customers become comfortable transacting online, it’s even more important that retail business becomes truly omnichannel, adds Joffre. “This isn’t about how consumers buy, but how they receive their information through new ways such as online beauty advising and clienteling. Our omnichannel approach needs to ensure we provide our impeccable service wherever customers want to shop, whether this be from the comfort of their own homes, 24| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
online, live with a beauty advisor in store, through click and collect or face-to-face.” REVITALISATION FOR NEW YEAR
During the Covid-19 pandemic Chemcorp has been able to keep up with consumer demand and changes in purchasing patterns due to the diversity of our brand offerings, says Scott Gray, Chemcorp National Sales Manager. “We saw a decline in the
Scott Gray, NATIONAL SALES MANAGER, CHEMCORP
cosmetic category, due to the lack of events and social gatherings, so previously bestselling brands such Real Techniques took a bit of a hit. However, we did see a major increase in DIY beauty brands such as 1000 Hour. With the sudden closure of beauty salons, sales of the iconic 1000 Hour Lash & Brow Dye kits were at a record high.” Sustainability has become top of mind for many consumers and the Covid-19 pandemic has enhanced concerns, adds Gray. “We are seeing a rise in demand for eco-friendly and clean beauty products and EcoTools Bath accessories has seen a major rise.” 2021 will see the introduction of more offerings from 1000 Hour, says Gray. “The 1000 Hour Lash & Brow Enhancing Serum launched in January. Its concentrated Super6Vital Blend is designed to hydrate the entire eye area and revitalise lashes and brows in just eight weeks. The first half of this year will also see the introduction of more self-care items from brands such as Dr Teal’s, SheaMoisture, Bathefex and SpaScriptions, including bath accessories, hair treatments, spa face masks and additions to the popular Epsom Salt ranges.” EcoTools are taking sustainability to the next level with the launch of their seeded packaging innovation, adds Gray. “The new packaging contains 88 per cent less plastic and is biodegradable, made from recycled material and the seeded packaging literally turns waste into wildflowers. Also rolling out in early 2021 is the world’s first 100% biodegradable makeup sponge from EcoTools. The sponge is plantable as well and is a real gamechanger in the sustainability category.” Our biggest launch for 2021 will be the introduction of the PureTAN self-tanning range under the Chemcorp banner, which is Australian-made from locally sourced, natural and organic ingredients, including certified organic DHA, organic coconut oil, Vitamin C and E, aloe vera and green tea, adds Gray. “The products are paraben and
sulphate-free and are cruelty-free and offer a plant-based alternative to the damaging effects of sun baking.” CONSUMER INVESTMENT IN INNOVATION/OPENNESS TO NEW TECHNOLOGIES
The shift to DIY beauty has driven heightened trial on innovative beauty tools and accessories that deliver salon quality results, says Juliette Toolin, Marketing Manager, Essential Beauty for McPherson’s Consumer Products. “A
Juliette Toolin, MARKETING MANAGER, ESSENTIAL BEAUTY, MCPHERSON’S CONSUMER PRODUCTS
good example is Manicare’s Nova Fit Facial Toning Device launched in March. Priced at $115, consumers were prepared to invest in innovative technology. And given the elevated importance of path-to-purchase for most of 2020, we shifted our media channels to 100 per cent digital, investing in rich, educational content with direct callto-action and click-through to the online hubs of our retail partners.” The focus on the digital path-to-purchase and continuing to engage consumers in this competitive space remains our number one priority, says Toolin. “In November, Glam by Manicare launched GlamCam, a virtual tool designed to virtually try-on and shop glam lashes using a smartphone or desktop. This device has the widest application for consumer engagement, in addition to being an informative tool for BAs to engage with shoppers to help select lashes.” There’s plenty in the pipeline for the first few months of the year, says Toolin. “Glam Express will debut a new tech smart clear eyeliner with lash adhesive for a seamless finish. A new Professional Series Cosmetic Brush range from Glam will use nano bristles for superior makeup application. Manicare will continue to premiumise its core tools offering with the launch of salon grade manicure tools under the MANIPRO banner in 2021.” As Covid-19 hit our retail environment, Sisley was quick to adapt with innovative service strategies that aligned both the change in consumer attitudes in the way they purchase and an increasing openness to new technologies, says Irene Robinson, General Manager ANZ for Sisley. “During mandated constraints and a general reluctance to shop in store, the creation of our visual consultation platform - Connect with Sisley - allowed our customers the opportunity to experience an
Irene Robinson, GENERAL MANAGER ANZ, SISLEY
‘in store’ recommendation and personalised service through this new social platform without the need to visit our counters. “In addition, we further enhanced our ability to provide the Sisley experience to our customers at home by facilitating the first Sisley AUS Masterclass, which proved a great success by allowing our customers to enjoy informative, educational and inspiring topics. During the significant impact of Covid-19 and its adversity, we have connected to our customers in more innovative and personal ways to enhance the experience for loyal customers whether in-store or online.” AUSTRALIAN-MADE IN DEMAND/ FOCUS ON TRUSTED BRANDS
Now more than ever, consumers are looking for locally-produced Australian products, says Olivier Duvillard, General Manager ANZ for Jurlique International. “Traceability is key and
Olivier Duvillard, GENERAL MANAGER ANZ, JURLIQUE INTERNATIONAL
we know exactly what goes into our soil, our ingredients and how and where our products are made and how and when they are delivered to consumers. “There is growing interest in the way we operate our biodynamic farm and since 2016 more than 6000 people have visited the property for a behind-the-scenes tour. We love sharing our unique farming practices and the power of nature with our guests. Jurlique has planted over 12,000 native trees on the farm since 2012 to assist with our biodynamic accreditation and improve the environment. Visitors really enjoy learning about our sustainability practices and the way we re-use, recycle and recover into energy everything we use.” To cater to our customers during the Covid-19 restrictions, we implemented an online service strategy which allowed our beauty experts to provide personalised skincare advice via free Virtual Skin Consultations and instant online assistance via LiveChat, says Duvillard. “Customers can book in for a complimentary virtual experience and access tailored advice to best suit their needs. “We have also noticed a shift to
consumers focusing on nurturing themselves. We have enjoyed a significant increase in sales within our bodycare and essential oil ranges. As we continue our brand focus around nurturing and hydrating the skin, keep an eye out this year for a new Limited Edition Mist, which incorporates both properties.” We have seen an increased consumer momentum to purchase skincare and bodycare on online says Sky Briffa, Natio Global Sales Manager. “Not only has the
Sky Briffa, GLOBAL SALES MANAGER, NATIO
purchasing destination changed, but there is also a dramatic move to at-home selfcare treatments. We have also noticed an increased interest from both retail buyers and customers in purchasing Australian-owned and Australian-made products. Feedback from cosmetic buyers confirms that it is the trusted brands that have maintained momentum in these difficult times.” Providing consumers with Australianmade products at affordable prices is paramount to Natio, adds Briffa. “We have also been progressively working towards the goal of ‘reduce, re-use and recycle’ with a range of corporate social and environmental responsibility initiatives. Customers also value transparency and positive action that reflect a brand’s stated values. For this reason, we chose to support local charities such as Wildlife Rescue South Coast, utilise solar power as our main energy source for our office and warehouse, and are continually revising and improving our products and gift sets to be more reusable.” According to IRI scan data for the quarter to the end of September, Natio enjoyed significant increases in selfpampering ranges such as the Spa and Wellness/Spirit Collections, says Briffa. “Natio Superbrand personal wash enjoyed an increase of 41.3 per cent, by contrast to 3.9 percent for the category as a whole. Over the same period Natio Superbrand grew 25.7 per cent.” 2021 will see the launch of Natio Clear - a targeted skincare range offering high performing formulations with natural ingredients to balance oil, clear pores and restore the skin’s natural balance, says Briffa. “As Australia adjusts to the new normal and social occasions are on the agenda once again, we anticipate a resurgence in colour cosmetics, which many customers have chosen to cut back on during Covid-19 restrictions.”
HOME CATEGORY BOOMS/ TRANSPARENCY RULES
The pandemic has seen a shift in consumer consumption patterns around home fragrances, says Patricia Gigliotti, Marketing Director, Sapphire Group
Patricia Gigliotti, MARKETING DIRECTOR, SAPPHIRE GROUP
(Circa Home and Glasshouse Fragrances). “At Circa Home we have seen a large increase in demand for our products, as people make the best of life at home. Whether it is to set a mood, evoke nostalgia, or simply to appreciate the moment, people have embraced the mood and memory-provoking power of scent.” More than ever, we believe consumers are looking to purchase brands that have meaning and purpose, says Gigliotti. Consumers expect businesses to be corporate citizens and they understand that their purchasing power can make a change. One such shift we have seen is consumer interest in buying local. We saw this trend emerge as part of the tragic bushfires that swept Australia in early 2020, and awareness and support to buy local that continued through the Covid-19 pandemic. We are very proud to support local talent and to design and manufacture Circa Home products locally, except for Scent Scene which uses international ingredients.” The pandemic has instilled a new way of thinking and people will continue to find sanctuary in their homes and look at ways to make time for moments that matter, says Gigliotti. “Products and services that enable or encourage this will benefit. I also believe we need to continue to build on our connections with our customers. While there are still physical barriers that the pandemic has imposed on us, customers are craving connectivity and we need to continue to find innovative ways to connect in a meaningful way.” Being Australian-made in terms of product and packaging, our supply chain wasn’t greatly impacted during the pandemic, says Wendy Widdicombe, Sales Manager for The Jojoba Company.
Wendy Widdicombe, SALES MANAGER, THE JOJOBA COMPANY
“Some ingredients for our products are sourced internationally, so we became ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |25
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very organised with our planning and logistics and ordered larger quantities. Our sales team became expert at Zoom meetings and phone calls when they couldn’t visit some stores during the crisis and we were able to keep up with orders and supplies.” Ian Clark, Marketing Manager for The Jojoba Company, confirms the rise of self-nurturing. “People were also keen to support smarter, safer Australian-made
Ian Clark, MARKETING MANAGER, THE JOJOBA COMPANY
skincare products, in a quest to invest not only in themselves but also for the greater good of the environment. Coincidentally, we were investing heavily online when the pandemic first started to impact to promote our recently formulated #3 SKU - Ultimate Youth Potion. During the month of April, we sold one product every hour and the momentum continues.” The Jojoba Company also experienced a noticeable uptick in traffic and turnover in its e-commerce business, adds Clark. “We also went to market with a new product following the first wave of the pandemic Calming Jojoba. Acknowledging the effect of stress, the product combined jojoba with lavender, moringa, chamomile and bisabolol, the active concentrated form of chamomile noted for its amazing healing benefits. Customers are telling us they are loving what the product is doing for their mind and their skin.” Transparency is now key for consumers and will become more critical in coming years, from ingredient sourcing through to wider holistic business practices, says Charmaine Pichler, Marketing Manager, Weleda Australia. “Consumers are going
Charmaine Pichler, MARKETING MANAGER, WELEDA AUSTRALIA
behind the label and at Weleda we know the importance of sustainable raw material sourcing in the supply chain, biodiversity preservation, responsible farming methods and packaging innovation. 2020 has shown how agile brands need to be in order to align with consumer expectations from demanding more diversity in beauty campaigns to fundraising efforts for bushfire relief.” 26| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
DOUBLE THE FUTURE OPPORTUNITY FOR PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE BRANDS
Few sections of the beauty industry re-jigged their business models for the long-term faster than professional skincare brands. When clinics were forced to shut down during the Covid-19 pandemic, they had to re-invent their offer, says MariaEnna Cocciolone, Founder and CEO of O Cosmedics. “Inskin Cosmedics led the
Maria-Enna Cocciolone, FOUNDER AND CEO, O COSMEDICS
way with providing their clinic partners with a clinic code, which they could pass onto their customers so they could buy directly from us, receive their purchases overnight and the clinic would be re-imbursed with a mark-up. As clinics re-opened the industry now has two main customers - the traditional customer happy to return to the clinic and the customer that does not feel safe to return to the clinic or doesn’t normally frequent clinics. It’s fair to say the lessons acquired during the Covid-19 crisis are being adapted long-term.” The clinic offer is now duplicated digitally, says Cocciolone. “Skin consultations and check-ups are conducted on Zoom or FaceTime and potential customers are welcomed by online chats. Retail is sold by most of our partners online and customers have the convenience of picking up their purchase or having it delivered and customised. Professional skincare has never been more accessible. Post-Covid, the industry has double the opportunity with an expanded digital-base clientele.” Pippa Hallas, CEO of Ella Baché,
Pippa Hallas, CEO, ELLA BACHÉ
confirms the acceleration of digital and online services. “We have seen the natural desire for consumers to reach for safety and security during the Covid-19 crisis. Skincare has benefited from this and consumers have reached for brands they know and trust. Ella Baché salons are an important part of local communities and we have been blown away by the support of loyal customers.” For us, it was imperative to build an online consultation system and boost our education tools, so that customers felt comfortable connecting with our skincare and treatment
products online without face-to-face contact, adds Hallas. “2021 will a see continued investment in technology right across our business. In the way customers buy products, the way they treat their skin, in marketing and the virtual education model. The business is equally high touch and we will continue to grow our service offering. We will also open new stores but possibly in different locations, as we see the resurgence of the high street in many locations and recovery of the major CBDs. We have a three to five year product innovation pipeline of which sustainability is a big charter in our program. Going forward, creating a seamless online and offline experience and results-driven skincare are two of the most trends in skincare.” Sustainability has become a key issue for many consumers and Medik8 has invested heavily in the process, says Sonia Swift, Brand & Marketing Manager for Advanced Cosmeceuticals. “Medik8
Sonia Swift, BRAND & MARKETING MANAGER, ADVANCED COSMECEUTICALS
has always been known as the ‘green chemistry’ brand, making products using an energy efficient process and seeking ways to improve its sustainability practices. Advances include using 100% Post Consumer Recycled material for all plastic bottles and 40% recycled glass in glass bottles. Medik8 aims to be the world’s most sustainable professional-led skincare brand, with 100% of its packaging being recyclable, refillable or re-usable by 2023. Launching a premium, luxury skincare brand like iS Clinical in Australia and New Zealand just as the Covid-19 crisis hit may seem like unlucky timing, but the opposite has been true, says Dan O’Donnell, Marketing Manager, High Tech Medical. “The response has exceeded
Dan O’Donnell, MARKETING MANAGER, HIGH TECH MEDICAL
our expectations and, given that beauty and cosmetic medicine clinics were initially closed, it seems that consumers turned to higher-quality, at-home skincare solutions to keep their skin looking great. It was exciting to see how quickly professional skincare clinics adapted as online skin consultations via Zoom with purchases via online stores became the norm. Today’s consumers are
demanding that products actually work and deliver visible results. They are savvy enough to see through empty marketing claims.” FRAGRANCE SUCCESS HINGES ON PREMIUM QUALITY
The main changes we have seen over the past year have centred around the home category, says Nick Smart, Director of Agence de Parfum. “Consumers working
Nick Smart, DIRECTOR, AGENCE DE PARFUM
from home during Covid-19 wanted to create a warm, ambient environment with candles and body pampering. This has resulted in huge growth within the sector and consumers are selecting larger sized candles and premium body products.” We are now servicing VIP customers via Zoom classes, recreating an in-store experience for our clientele in the comfort of their homes, adds Smart. “These classes have afforded our customers an interactive experience that enables them to select fragrances whilst experiencing the brand story, the fragrance construction and how to incorporate scents into their existing fragrance portfolio. Many of our brands collaborate with charities and fair trade cooperatives to source sustainable raw materials produced by traditional agricultural methods. Thibaud Crivelli of Maison Crivelli, for example, has visited vetiver and patchouli plantations in Indonesia to encourage sustainable development practices. Through the Covid-19 pandemic, the old mantra - quality and service will be remembered long after price is forgotten - has been reinforced.” We have noticed a massive increase in sales online both in Australia and worldwide this calendar year with an increase of 500 per cent versus last year, says Dimitri Weber, Founder and Creative Director of Goldfield & Banks, the luxury fragrance
Dimitri Weber, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, GOLDFIELD & BANKS
house. “As a global brand based in Australia, we are also present in 32 countries around the world. Being mainly an e-commerce brand in Australia, customers were already used to finding us online and have always been big fans of our sample sets, which have been converted into sales of full-size bottles.
This way of working offers customers the chance to experience our brand at home and try all the perfumes, by contrast to a perfumery where they may be presented with one or two fragrances.” We have also invested heavily in the re-work of our website in Australia, as well as our website in the EU and the US, adds Weber. “Our webshop is now our number one store worldwide and is growing strongly. Our perfumes are almost all vegan and eco-friendly and the use of Australian native ingredients has been a key driver of the success of the brand as consumers are drawn to more local premium brands.” We offer an excellent service online and have been very close to our retailers during the Covid-19 pandemic, offering support with good prices, samples and GWPs to boost their sales in-store and on their websites, says Weber. “We offer gift wrapping and complimentary samples to all our clients and free delivery in Australia. Personalisation of each purchase with a written card, following up with a regular newsletter and responding to all inquiries within 24 hours are also standard.” In 2021, we are launching a new chapter with a collection of luxury perfumes featuring ingredients sourced and harvested sustainably in other areas of the world, adds Weber. “We will launch with one perfume in a gold lacquered edition made in France and it will be sold through very premium retailers. In Australia, we are partnering with Sephora as of January this year and we have the privilege to be able to express our brand identity through personalised counters in their new flagship stores. We will also expand our retail presence with Heinemann Sydney International Airport as travel retail resumes.”
service strategies to best manage customer and staff expectations and protect the health and well-being of the community. “One of our most important changes involved more frequent and transparent communication with staff and customers. We set up a Covid-19 Taskforce that navigated, devised and implemented operational action plans, and communicated with staff in a streamlined and timely manner about changes on a daily basis. As a result, our staff felt informed, engaged and empowered and they were able to confidently communicate changes to consumers, which drove up customer confidence.” Another important change was the implementation of technology solutions to communicate with staff working from home and to support the rise in telehealth, adds Vavoulas. “We now make use of our in-house intranet platform and hold more video conference meetings. I’d like to emphasise the importance of having a ‘people first’ approach. This way of thinking has been key to getting our business through the worst of the pandemic and continues to be central to our success. Introducing a digital element to various areas of our business and making the most of technology will continue to have a prominent part of our plans moving forward.” Consumers are definitely expecting more from brands in terms of corporate citizenship, says Pamela Bishop, Chief Marketing Officer, Blooms The Chemist. “They want companies to be
Pamela Bishop MARKETING OFFICER, BLOOMS THE CHEMIST
PHARMACY PUTS PEOPLE FIRST
Pharmacies were viewed as essential businesses during the Covid-19 lockdowns, but also had to make changes to service strategies and implement new technologies. Covid-19 saw consumer attitudes and requirements for retail pharmacy change, says Emmanuel Vavoulas, Head of Retail, Blooms The Chemist, the
Emmanuel Vavoulas, HEAD OF RETAIL, BLOOMS THE CHEMIST
leading pharmacy chain of 100 stores across NSW, Queensland, Victoria and WA with a significant online and in-store beauty business. “As we entered uncharted territory, we were prompted to revise our
accountable for operating ethically and contributing to society, the economy and the planet. We have partnerships with multiple charities and non-profit organisations, including Make-AWish Australia and Gidget Foundation Australia. We are also partnering with Bambuddha, an organisation that helps leaders meet the changing demands of employees, customers, stakeholders and the environment.” When it comes to customer engagement, being able to interact with a company across multiple channels is also a basic customer expectation these days, notes Bishop. “It’s not just one point of interaction that matters anymore, it is everything that leads up to and follows the engagement. Customers expect an experience now, not just a transaction.” ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |27
SKIN PHYSICS Backed by Science, Powered by Nature
Skin Physics is an award-winning, Australian-based cosmeceutical brand traditionally specialising in targeted solutions for anti-ageing concerns. Today, Skin Physics cements itself as a market leader in skincare, expanding its offering to deliver affordable, results-based skincare solutions that support skin of all ages. esprit has the exclusive low down on their brand philosophy, recent refresh and latest product launches. 28| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
THE HISTORY: Launched in 2008, Skin Physics shook up the anti-ageing sector with their world-leading plant stem cell skincare and an extensive clinical study in phototherapy and retinol. In 2014, it was acquired by the newly created parent company Biophysics. The company’s vision? To deliver quality beauty, wellness and lifestyle solutions that enrich people’s lives. SKIN PHYSICS’ PHILOSOPHY: Skin Physics is driven by discovery and innovation. By combining the best of science and nature, Skin Physics creates quality, results-driven skincare solutions that keep skin healthy and youthful through all stages of life. “Our focus is on consumers who are wanting to look after their skin at all stages of life, and we strongly believe that you are never too young to start,” Tania
Thistlethwaite, Biophysics Brand and Marketing Manager said. “Whether you are 20 or 60 years old, we have a product that will help you and your skin. Ingredient purity and efficacy is at the heart of what we do and we strongly believe that everyone should have access to quality skincare. We’re always on the hunt for new and unique ingredients that produce real results and avoid nasty chemicals in our formulations, so our customers can be confident in what they’re putting on the skin,” Tania said.
FEATURE
Ingredient purity and efficacy is at the heart of what we do and we strongly believe that everyone should have access to quality skincare.
Brand Pillars
This Skin Physics brand is built on three pillars: Innovation: Skin Physics only uses the latest skin care innovations and technology. Quality: Skin Physics prides itself on its manufacturing process, product quality and ingredients. Real Results: Skin Physics only release a product if they are certain it can produce a skin difference that matters.
THE LATEST: Keeping true to the formulations its customers know and love, Skin Physics is bringing about a refreshed approach to the brand, packaging and product formats. The brand recently launched a targeted range of facial serums, which debuted exclusively in Priceline. The range includes three unique serums that boast highly concentrated bursts of clinically proven active ingredients to target common skin concerns while brightening, hydrating, and rejuvenating the skin. “We are continuing to innovate by bringing to market fresh, new and results-driven
formulations,” Tania said. Providing an affordable and accessible solution, each product combines technology from its bestselling ranges; Advance Superlift, Dragon’s Blood and Oxygen C and steer clear of parabens, silicones, alcohols, sulphates and mineral oils. The new serum offering includes: Oxygen-C Vitamin C Brightening Serum, RRP $19.95 An Antioxidant-rich brightening complex that delivers a high concentration of vitamins onto the skin to address key signs of ageing and a lacklustre complexion. Formulated with two potent sources of Vitamin C to help neutralise free radical damage from excess sun exposure, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin radiance. Niacinamide to visibly improve uneven skin tone, refine the appearance of pores and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and Australian Lime Caviar Extract (rich in natural AHAs) for gentle exfoliation. The Oxygen-C Vitamin C Brightening Serum is best suited for those looking to combat: dull or/uneven skin tone, blemishes, enlarged pores, signs of ageing.
Dragon’s Blood Retinol Sleep Serum, RRP $29.95 A highly concentrated, low-irritation complex that combines Granactive Retinoid with added Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid to rejuvenate, retexture and hydrate skin while you sleep. This powerful combination helps to restore thickness to the skin visibly reducing the appearance of fines lines & wrinkles, evens out skin tone; reducing the appearance of pigmentation and age spots, and improves skin texture. Enriched with plant-based actives Dragon’s Blood and Bisabolol to help protect skin from oxidative stress, encourage cellular renewal and help to even out skin complexion. The Dragon’s Blood Retinol Sleep Serum is best suited for those looking to combat: fine lines, wrinkles, age spots, pigmentation, dull or uneven skin tone and rough textured skin. Advance Superlift Lifting and Firming Complex, RRP $34.95 An advanced anti-ageing complex that works to restore skin firmness and elasticity right from application. The highly concentrated blend features an awardwinning plant cellular extract clinically proven to increase skin firmness, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and increase hydration in the skin, Biomimetic Peptide that works to restore collagen contraction to improve the appearance of sagging contours, a Marine Biotech ingredient to recharge tired skin, all while bursts of hyaluronic acid settle deep into skin folds and expand to produce a volumised appearance. The Advance Superlift Lifting and Firming Complex Serum For those looking for a solution to: fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin, loss of volume and dry skin. For more information on the range check out their website at www.skinphysics.com.au or contact them via email retail@biophysicsgroup.com.
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |29
5 minutes with...
Tim Cahill by Nicci Herrera
Tim Cahill is the all-time leading goalscorer for the Australia national soccer team. Known for his adept heading ability and high vertical leap, the father-of-four is also known for having a good head for business and was recently appointed an Officer (AO) in the General Division of the Order of Australia for his service to football and philanthropic work. Nicci Herrera catches up with the VitaMan ambassador and part business owner, to see how he’s kicking goals in the world of beauty. 30| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
“I’ve been involved with VitaMan as a shareholder since 2014. I started in a brand ambassador role but have since transitioned to being more involved on a business level.” WHY DID VITAMAN RESONATE WITH YOU?
“There are three things about VitaMan that immediately stood out to me. Firstly, the product - I loved that they were a brand using natural Australian ingredients in all of their products. My family and I all tried the range and loved how we felt after using them. The second thing was the people – I spent a lot of time talking with Clare before deciding to become involved. I understood her passion, and the time and knowledge that she had put into building the business to the point it was at. She totally won me over. The final aspect was the potential. I looked at where the company was at the time and saw a pathway to it being stocked and used all over the world.” HOW INVOLVED ARE YOU WITH THE COMPANY?
“I get weekly updates so that I can see how sales are progressing in different categories and how successful our different marketing approaches have been. We work together on how I can best utilise my platform and contacts to help grow the brand. I’m not on the ground in Australia as I live in the UK now but email, Zoom and WhatsApp means that I’m in regular contact with Clare and the team.” WHICH IS THE MORE DIFFICULT CAREER PATH - FOOTBALLER OR BUSINESS OWNER? WHY?
“It’s hard to pick between the two. I think there are actually a lot of similarities in terms of the obstacles that you face. In sport and in business, trying to find a balance in your career can be difficult. You feel like the more time you dedicate, the better off you will be, but I’ve found that isn’t always the case. It’s taken me a long time to work out that spending time with family and away from your sport/ business actually helps you in the longer term, because in sport it helps you avoid injuries and approach training with a good mindset, and in business it helps avoid bad decisions and burnout. I have to say that I definitely didn’t appreciate that when I
5 MINUTES WITH
HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN PART OF THE VITAMAN BRAND?
was younger, but it’s something that I consciously build into my future plans now.” WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE PRODUCT AND WHY?
“I love our number one hold hair product – the VitaMan Hair Styling Crème. I take it with me absolutely everywhere. It has enough hold to give your hair shape but is subtle enough that you can’t tell that you’ve got product in. The Face Moisturiser and Skin Protector are both favourites as well. Especially being in northern UK during winter, giving your skin a bit of protection and care goes a long way.” WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR GREATEST SUCCESS?
“My family are number one by a long way. To see my kids grow up and start to take their own steps makes me incredibly proud, whether it’s in football, business, or any other path they choose to go down.” WHAT HAS BEEN THE MOST VALUABLE LEARNING IN YOUR CAREER?
“I was involved in football a long time before I started in business, so I think the most valuable learning comes from that. For me, it’s really all about how you learn from failure. My career had plenty of disappointments, whether it was losing important games, serious injuries, or criticisms. As an athlete I
would take time to reflect on the situation and then use it as motivation to work harder. It’s the same strategy that I use now off the park in business.” WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THE NEXT GENERATION OF BRAND CREATORS?
“I think that having fun while you’re creating and building a brand is something that’s often overlooked. I’m definitely someone who took things very seriously when I first got involved in business and brand-building. It’s taken me time to realise that putting trust in the people you work with and not feeling like you have to do everything yourself leads to a more enjoyable approach. The other thing that I’d say is that investing time into building real relationships at the beginning of your journey can have a big pay-off later on. Relationship building is often talked about like a give and take between people, but I’ve been able to build real friendships with the people I’ve worked with and that’s been a lot more rewarding.” HOW DO YOU MAINTAIN A WORK LIFE BALANCE?
“This is something that’s really important to me. My sporting career was probably a long way off from this and it’s something that I’ve put a lot of time into developing since retiring. Helping my family pursue their own goals has been a big part of it. Putting a good team around me that I can trust with making decisions in my best interests has been an important step as well. I’m someone who likes to be across everything so learning to delegate and stay in my lane has been a challenging process, but one that has resulted in a much better quality of life.” www.vitaman.com.au ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |31
INDUSTRY NEWS
Johnson & Johnson posts 8.3 per cent growth in Q4
The five ‘shopper tribes’ and their buying preferences
Value for money is the top priority for shoppers this year, with two thirds (67%) suggesting it has become more important since the start of the pandemic, according to new global research from Klarna. This was followed by promotions and deals (60%), a good reputation and trustworthiness (60%) and having a wide range of products available (58%). Over half of respondents said that an easy returns process (55%) and next or same day delivery options (51%) have become more important this year — naturally coinciding with 49% doing more of their shopping online and 44% doing most or all their shopping online now. While these ‘non-negotiables’ are consistent across the board, Klarna’s report ‘Clicks and cliques: Understanding shopper tribes now’ reveals subtle differences in the priorities and preferences of five modern shopper tribes that alter the way brands and retailers should engage with them. By tapping into the wants and needs of shoppers, retailers will create a deeper, emotional connection. 1. Family Firsts - A family-focused tribe with a busy life that makes online shopping invaluable and interruptions unavoidable. They are most likely to stay loyal with the retailers they buy from (30%). However, over half (55%) say they are more open to trying new brands now than they have been previously — more than any other tribe. 2. Aspirational Achievers - A financially comfortable tribe that tend to shop around and will invest in premium products. They are most likely to say they are loyal to a couple of brands and retailers within each category that they shop (45% made this claim). High quality products are a must, with over half (57%) saying these must be offered by brands or retailers — more than any other tribe. 3. Here and Nows - A tribe that lives in the moment, spending what they earn on the things they want and often finding inspiration on social media. Almost six out of ten (58%) say they still want to treat themselves to nice items, even though they are going out less — more than any other tribe. They are also more likely to turn to TV adverts for inspiration, with almost one quarter (24%) saying they do this . 4. Savvy Fashionistas - Earning less than they would like to, this tribe regularly seek inspiration online and look for hacks to help get the best products and deals. They are most likely to buy more from brands and retailers that offer promotions and deals (45%) and that have a wide range of products available (45%). They are also most likely to consider it important for brands or retailers to offer flexible payment options (36%) — which encourage them to shop regularly (33%) and buy more (35%). 5. Conscious Consumers - Less focused on hitting life’s traditional milestones and living by the system, this tribe seeks fulfilment in pursuits like learning and discovery and shop as sustainably as they can. The only tribe to rely more on brand or retailer websites for inspiration than family or friends, with 36% ranking them as a top source — perhaps due to a need to validate information themselves. Trustworthiness and a good reputation are more likely to encourage them to shop regularly with a brand or retailer — with 42% reporting this effect. Klarna Australia country head, Fran Ereira said 2020’s events have transformed the way consumers browse and buy, reinventing their relationships with brands and retailers and accelerating change at an unprecedented rate. “Merchants must keep a finger on the pulse of their customers’ wants and needs and adapt their products and service offers accordingly to build a connection with shoppers to drive loyalty and, ultimately, sales.” 32| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
Growth of 8.3 per cent in the fourth quarter to US$22.5 billion helped Johnson & Johnson’s (J&J) revenues increase 0.6 per cent to US$82.6 billion for the full 2020 calendar year. Most of the steam in Q4 came from the pharmaceutical division – up 16.3 per cent in sales. The consumer health division, including the Aveeno, Neutrogena, Clean & Clear, OGX and Maui Moisture haircare brands, also enjoyed a 1.4 per cent uptick for the period. The oral category, led by new launches from Listerine, and Dr Ci:Labo, the number one medical skincare brand in Japan, were also bright spots for the multinational. Sales in the beauty and health division are likely to be flat in the first quarter, notes Joe Wolk, executive vice-president and CFO at J&J. Although sales are expected to lift in the second half of the year as consumers returned to more typical usage patterns in skin health and beauty. J&J have released a cautious guidance for 2021 and are looking at operational sales growth of 8.8 per cent for the year. Alex Gorsky, chairman and CEO of J&J, confirmed that 2020 had been a year dominated by uncertainty. But reiterated that J&J was “built for times like this”, as a large, broad-based global health care company. The multinational has also increased R&D investments to record levels, added Gorsky. Last week, J&J announced details of its single shot Covid-19 vaccine, which is expected to cost as little as AUD$13 and doesn’t require cold storage. The company is poised to apply for emergency use authorisation from the USFDA and expects to supply 100 million doses in the US by June.
Douglas, the Germany-based titan of perfume and cosmetics with 2400 stores across Europe, has long been a major springboard for Australian beauty brands looking to access the lucrative European market. During its last financial year ended September 30th, the company’s sales reached 3.2 billion euros (AUD$5.07 billion). Only 6.4 percent under the previous fiscal year when revenues hit a record 3.5 billion euros (AUD$5.54 billion). Douglas has invested heavily in e-commerce over the past two years as part of its #FORWARDBEAUTY strategy. The initiative paid off, says Tina Muller, group CEO Douglas, with a 40.6 per cent increase in our e-commerce business over the past year. “Our success to date, with online sales of one billion euros (AUD$1.58 billion) in the entire calendar year 2020, is a confirmation that our strategy is working. No other European beauty retailer has seen such
a strong increase in online sales combined with double-digit EBITDA margins.” Singles’ Day, Black Friday and its Christmas campaign also propelled a record final quarter. Douglas has announced it will be reducing its bricks-and-mortar presence by 20 per cent across Europe. Five hundred stores, the majority of which are in
INDUSTRY NEWS
Premium beauty retailer to close 500 stores
southern Europe, will be shuttered by the end of 2022. Sixty of Douglas German stores from its national network of 430 are also part of the overall closure program. According to the NPD Group, Douglas’ market share of the online beauty retail sector accounts for 25.4 per cent of sales across Europe and 39.9 per cent in Germany, Europe’s largest beauty and personal care market. We also have big plans for the months to come, adds Muller. “The necessary reduction of our store network will be accompanied by investments in flagship stores in top locations, leading international brands and the consistent expansion of digital retail throughout Europe. “Our rapid transformation demonstrates the strength of the combination of bricksand-mortar and online retailing.”
TVSN holds Dr Doris Day press masterclass Dr Doris Day is a trend-setting, leading dermatologist in New York City’s cosmetic dermatology field and a regular on television shows such as The View and Live with Kelly and Ryan. Her renowned skincare line, Doris Day MD Medical Skincare, is soon launching on TVSN. To celebrate the upcoming launch, Dr Day held a press masterclass via Zoom from her upper east side apartment. TVSN general manager Judy Deuchar kicked off the masterclass and said that Dr Day was “incredibly well trained in skincare” and “comes from a family that loves skincare”. Dr Day, a mother of two and a specialist in laser, cosmetic, surgical and aesthetic dermatology, explained that she came from a “family of doctors” that were always focused on a holistic approach to beauty. “I am a first generation American and come from a family of doctors,” she said. “My dad came from Iran and he taught me that health and appearance were very connected. You must take care of your skin and never underestimate the power of nutrition.” After Dr Day first started her career as a medical writer after completing her master’s in journalism and science writing at New York University before earning her MD at Downstate Medical School in New York.
She completed her residency in dermatology at Cornell University College of Medicine, achieving the title of Chief Resident, before working as a formulator for some of the big multinational beauty brands, “I started very early in my career working with brands like Estée Lauder and L’Oréal, and helping them develop formulas for brands,” she said. “What I learnt is that ingredients make a difference to the skin, but formulas make an even bigger difference. This is why it has taken me 20 years to create something that I was happy to put my name on.” Dr Day said she was “very excited to introduce my products into Australia” and that her product range was all about nourishing the skin. “I’m not into over exfoliating the skin, I like to look at instead the best ways to nourish the skin,” she said. “We need to provide the right building bocks to help the skin help itself better. I create my products to nourish, protect and enhance the skin, not irritate it.” She is a member of many international organisations including the American
Society of Dermatologic Surgery, American Academy of Dermatology, Women’s Dermatologic Society, NY State Dermatology Society, New York Facial Plastic Surgery Society, and the American Honors Society of Dental and Facial Aesthetics. She is the author of three books, Beyond Beautiful: Using the Power of Your Mind and Aesthetic Breakthroughs to Look Naturally Young and Radiant (Center Street/Hatchet Book Group Publishers), Forget the Facelift: Turn Back the Clock with Dr Day’s Revolutionary FourStep Program for Ageless Skin (Avery/ Penguin Publishers), and 100 Questions and Answers about Acne (Jones and Bartle Publishers) and has completed a clinical monograph titled Understanding Hyperpigmentation. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |33
INDUSTRY NEWS
Procter & Gamble report 8 per cent growth in Q2 2021
The maker of Olay skincare and Pantene haircare has reported net sales of US$19.7 billion for its second quarter 2021 – an increase of 8 per cent by contrast to the same period last year. The beauty division, including Olay and prestige brand SK-II, achieved revenues of US$3.8 billion – an upsurge of 5 per cent over the past 12 months. Skincare and personal care organic sales jumped in the mid-single digits, propelled by innovation, increased pricing and the impact of new launches from Olay and key soap brands. Haircare organic sales, led by power brands Pantene, Head & Shoulders and Herbal Essences, also enjoyed sales gains in the midsingle digits. Strong demand in mainland China and retail execution were major movers of the dial. The healthcare division, including Oral-B and Vick’s products, reported organic sales growth of 9 per cent. The multinational’s grooming appliance revenues jumped 20 per cent, as consumers sought out at-home styling and grooming products. P&G’s grooming, baby, feminine and facial care division followed suit with a 6 per cent rise in organic sales. The personal care titan has raised its estimate for fiscal growth in 2021 from 3 to 4 per cent to 5 to 6 per cent following the Q2 performance. We delivered another strong quarter of results across all key measures – top line, bottom line and cash, said David Taylor, chairman, president and CEO of Procter & Gamble. “We remain focused on executing our strategies of superiority, productivity, constructive disruption and improving P&G’s organisation and culture. These strategies enabled us to build strong business momentum before the Covid-19 crisis, accelerated our progress in calendar year 2020 and remain the right strategies to deliver balanced growth and value creation over the long term.”
Reckitt Benckiser buys Queen V brand The feminine hygiene products market casts a wide net. The classification covers sanitary napkins, tampons, panty liners and vaginal wellness products. ResearchandMarkets, the world’s largest market research store, reports that the global feminine hygiene market will reach US$27.73 billion by 2025 – up from US$20.96 billion in 2020. MarketResearch.com, the most comprehensive collection of market intelligence products and services on the Internet, reveals that the feminine hygiene market in Australia reached AUD$397.8 million in 2019 and is on track to hit AUD$454.6 million by 2024. Two major factors are driving the market. Rising incomes in the Asia/Pacific area, the fastest-growing market in the world, and the modern vaginal health movement in developed countries, which has seen the rise of women-for-women vibrators, new generation lubricants and vaginal wellness SKUs. Reckitt Benckiser (RB), the UK-based multinational consumer goods group with revenues of AUD$22.76 billion in 2019, has acquired Queen V. The US-based brand makes vaginal health products such as The Spritzer, a deodorising rosewater spray, and P.S. I Lube You, an aloe-based lubricant. Queen V was founded by Lauren Steinberg in 2018 and will join KY jelly and Durex, the world’s biggest condom brand, in RB’s global business unit. The company was backed by Lightspeed Venture Partners, the same investment company involved in Lady Gaga’s Haus Labs. Queen V’s products are sold in Walmart and CVS drugstores in the US. Steinberg, the daughter of a gynaecologist, says her mission is to “de-stigmatise the word vagina”. Last December, online beauty retailer, Adore Beauty, expanded beyond its core range of beauty and skincare SKUs into sex toys and vaginal wellness products.
The Body Shop opens new sustainable concept store Activist beauty brand, The Body Shop has opened the doors to its new concept store at Melbourne’s Emporium. The largest concept store to date, the store has been described as an interactive ‘activist workshop’ that encourages visitors to explore products and discover how they can fight for a more sustainable future. With this new concept, The Body Shop is going back to its roots and continues its passion of being forward thinking and environmentally progressive. The store has been fitted with sustainable fixtures like reclaimed wood and recycled plastics to help minimise its environmental footprint. Examples include a metal façade constructed in aluminium – an eco34| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
friendly material that requires less energy production than other materials – and is infinitely recyclable. The store also boasts worktop surfaces manufactured from 100% recycled material destined for landfill. The Body Shop creative and visual merchandising manager, Phil Ransome, said the materials used in the store are
natural, raw and real, and have been thoughtfully selected to enhance the space. “We’ve drawn inspiration from the real working spaces of artisan workshops and have integrated reclaimed, up-cycled and locally sourced items such as ceramics and propping to embody the spirit of this store and experience.” The new store also features an activism corner where consumers can discover the brand’s activist roots as well as campaign for social change around issues ranging from gender equality to fighting cosmetic animal testing. Consumers can also find out how they can get involved and take a stand with The Body Shop’s global and local collective.
In its report entitled Global Consumer Trends for 2021, Mintel, the world leaders in what consumers want and why, discovered that a sense of connectivity and community will drive consumer decisions in 2021. Mintel APAC’s trend director Matthew Crabbe shares more on the top four that particularly apply to the beauty industry. The past 12 months have proved an interesting time for businesses everywhere. This period in our collective history has been fuelled by unease, and it has been those who tapped into the changes we’ve seen in the world – everything from the need for escapism to a movement towards equity, agency and rights – who not only survived Covid-19 but thrived. Below are four consumer trends that particularly apply to the beauty industry: COMING TOGETHER One of the major impacts of the pandemic is isolation, and consumers are looking to come together in likeminded digital communities. “Helping consumers feel connected to others gives them the knowledge they are not alone, and can help to alleviate negativity and loneliness,” says Crabbe. Most beauty brands are already active in the digital world, especially when it comes to social media. Creating a sense of connection for members of those communities is fundamental for the ongoing growth of a brand. Forget about direct selling; brand communities help with word-of-mouth recommendations, reduce marketing costs and allow customers to have a greater sense of investment than advertising. Take Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, which features real customers on its social media and on the website’s ‘You Did That’ section. The brand also offers prizes of Fenty goods, a feature on the website and a takeover of Instagram Stories that go out to the company’s 10.5 million followers. COLLECTIVE EMPOWERMENT In the midst of the pandemic we saw one of the largest social protests in years. The Black Lives Matter movement saw people around the world pushing for equality and rights. Brands can and should show support for positive change, but it can’t be fake. “Brand action will resonate much more with consumers and inspire them to contribute in their own ways if brand initiatives are meaningful and well thought out,” says Crabbe. In the USA, founder and CEO of Uoma Beauty, Sharon Chuter, launched the Pull Up for Change campaign, challenging those brands who’d participated in #blackouttuesday to release their policies on racial equality in the workplace. It was a grassroots effort to bring transparency, accountability and Black representation to the beauty industry.
INDUSTRY NEWS
Key consumer trends impacting the global beauty industry in 2021
Others, such as Glossier and Huda Beauty, made significant financial contributions to civil rights organisations. PRIORITY SHIFT In what seems like the antithesis to the beauty industry, many consumers are rethinking their fixation with possessions and seeking a return to essentials. What that means for our industry is this: people are mostly turning to products that have tangible benefits and offer value. Still, they still seek out simple pleasure in splurges that elevate the everyday. Offering a coveted red lipstick, a serum-fuelled sheet mask or other small indulgence can lead consumers to a specific brand. In France, BeautyMix offers another intriguing service: a robot that allows customers to mix and make their own cosmetics. HEALTH UNDEFINED After 2020, wellbeing – physical and mental – is at the top of many consumers’ minds. These days, however, there’s no rule book and brands have both a responsibility and opportunity to set their own rules. “When it comes to wellbeing, all brands have an opportunity to consider how they can help consumers feel better – physically, emotionally or mentally,” says Crabbe. “Consumers’ need for health and wellbeing has never been greater, and they are looking at everything in their lives and deciding whether it’s contributing to their wellbeing or detrimental to it.” Beauty brands that offer all-natural ingredients and added benefits, such as UK brand This Works integrated range of sleep products (it includes an essential oil roller ball, shower gel and body moisturiser), will attract new customers. But with mental health at the forefront of discussion, there’s a chance for beauty brands to enter the conversation in a meaningful way. As well as ‘breaking down unrealistic standards of perfection’, Selena Gomez’s brand Rare Beauty provides finances for mental health services for young women. Another brand Hope Fragrances donates its net profits to research into depression treatments. It’s this type of commitment – not necessarily with that level of generosity – that cements the reputation of a brand, and identifying the values you want associated with yours will establish positivity and good will among members of the community. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |35
INDUSTRY NEWS
All Aveda products now 100 per cent vegan
he latest beauty T and health innovations from CES
Technology and beauty have become increasingly entwined. Nowhere is this more evident than at the annual CES trade show in Las Vegas, the world’s largest tech event. Over the past two years, L’Oréal debuted its My Skin Track UV patch from La Roche-Posay, P&G re-launched its Olay Skin Advisor app and AmorePacific released its IOPE Tailored 3D mask using printing technology to name a few. L’Oréal was again at the forefront of beauty developments at the recent 2021 CES show with the Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Sur Mesure powered by Perso technology. Predicted to be the “It” beauty SKU of the year, the US$300 gadget allows consumers to mix hues from colour formulas – reds, oranges, fuchsias and nudes – to mix and match lip shades to clothing, bags and nails. Based on a trio of cartridges, the Perso technology connects to an app, consumers choose the colours they want and the device extrudes the exact amount of each colour to make up the desired shade.
Beeswax is probably one of the oldest ingredients used in cosmetics, with reports it was first used as far back as 7000 BC. Being natural and non-toxic, with benefits to the skin, it is commonly used in lots of formulas including lipsticks, fragrance and hair products. But Aveda, the plant-powered hair care brand owned by Estee Lauder Companies, has announced a new milestone in the brand’s sustainability journey – all of its hair care, hair colour, body care, makeup and aroma products are now 100 per cent vegan. Christine Hall, Aveda’s VP of research and development, said removing beeswax from Aveda products was one of the brand’s biggest challenges. “Removing beeswax was one of the biggest challenges for Aveda formulators because it helps to create texture, structure, colour payoff, and smoothness,” Christine explained. “One common alternative to beeswax for lip products specifically is synthetic beeswax, a wax that is petroleum derived. But at Aveda, because we are committed to maximising our use of naturally-derived ingredients, we opted instead to create a unique blend of plant-based butters and waxes that are strong enough for application, but also feel good on your lips.” Beeswax can also have an impact on aroma and is often found in products containing fragrance. Kate Rosso, Aveda’s principle perfumer said: “We used an ingredient called beeswax absolute in some of our aromas. It is extracted from honeycomb or from cakes of beeswax. It provided a sweet, warm, complex note and helped increase its ‘staying power.’ We have worked hard to recreate these formulas using only non-animal derived ingredients to ensure that our iconic aromas would not be affected.” Vegan products are defined as those that are created without any animal or animal-derived ingredients. Many such ingredients are used in beauty including the aforementioned beeswax and honey, as well as silk, keratin, glycerin, nonvegetal squalene, lanolin, collagen and carmine. The global beauty company’s portfolio of more than 500 products now contain no animal derived ingredients.
Shiseido sells majority stake in personal care business for US$1.5 billion Shiseido may have a prestige reputation overseas. But the Japanese titan became one of the world’s top cosmetics companies by being the Johnson & Johnson of Japan. The company has been trying to boost its prestige cred internationally for over 20 years and the time has come to accelerate the long-term goal. Shiseido’s affordable personal care business includes best-selling drugstore and pharmacy brands such as Senka skincare, Super Mild and Tsubaki haircare. The company has entered an agreement with CVC Capital to form a joint venture company, with the private equity firm owning a 65 per 36| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
cent stake and Shiseido retaining a 35 per cent holding. The US$1.5 billion deal gives Shiseido the space to concentrate on its prestige portfolio. Apart from its signature brand, the multinational owns or licenses Drunk Elephant, the fast-growing US brand it acquired in 2019 for US$845 million, Laura Mercier, NARS, bareMinerals and leading designer fragrance brands Dolce & Gabbana, Elie Saab, Issey Miyake, Narciso Rodriguez, Zadig & Voltaire, Serge Lutens and Tory Burch. With the re-structure, Shiseido is aiming to become a global leader in prestige beauty over the next 10 years.
The Ultimate Shelfie
Top shelf – from left Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair www.esteelauder.com.au La Prairie Skin Caviar Crème Luxe www.laprairie.com Dior Super Potent Serum www.dior.com.au Alpha-H Liquid Gold www.alpha-h.com Mesoestetic Radiance DNA www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au La Clinica Essentials Vitamin C Ultra Serum www.laclinica.com Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream www.elizabetharden.com.au Sensori + Clarifying & Strengthening Serum-in-Oil www.sensoriplus.com Ella Baché Intense Recovery Cream www.ellabache.com.au Sisley Ecological Compound www.sisley-paris.com Clarins Double Serum www.clarins.com.au La Mer Crème De La Mer www.cremedelamer.com.au Middle shelf Madara SOS Hydra Repair Intensive Serum www.stylepatisserie.com Alya Skin Australian Pink Clay Mask www.alyaskin.com Raww Super Hydrate Me Eye Cream www.rawwcosmetics.com Olay Regenerist Whip UV Cream www.olay.com.au Biossance 100% Squalene Oil www.biossance.com
Jurlique Activating Water Essence www.jurlique.com Mukti Antioxidant Facial Oil www.muktiorganics.com The Jojoba Company Hydrating Day Cream www.thejojobacompany.com.au La Roche Posay anthelios 50+ www.laroche-posay.com.au Embryolisse Multi Function Face Mist www.scottysmakeup.com.au Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil www.trilogyproducts.com.au Dr Lewinn’s Reversaderm Cellular Regeneration Cream www.drlewinns.com.au Collagenesis by Skinn Eye Crème Reverse www.itvsn.com.au Bottom shelf Pixi Glow Tonic www.stylepatisserie.com Avène Thermal Spring Water www.avene.com.au Caudalie Beauty Elixir www.sephora.com.au The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% www.theordinary.deciem.com Du’it Tough Hands For Her www.duit.com.au DermaVeen Calmexa Soap Free Wash www.dermaveen.com.au Nivea Refreshing Day Cream www.nivea.com.au Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Formula www.palmersaustralia.com John Plunkett’s Superfade www.plunketts.com.au Weleda Skin Food www.weleda.com.au ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |37
Photo Credit: Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au
The Prettiest and Most Effective Skincare Products For Insta-Worthy #Shelfies
INDUSTRY NEWS
Face Halo inks US deal with Ulta Beauty
Face Halo – the pioneering, sustainable makeup remover – has changed the way many people in the world remove makeup since launching in 2017. Founded by Lizzy Pike, a mother of three, including a set of twins, Face Halo quickly became a genius solution to those looking to remove their makeup quickly and easily. Lizzy’s 15-year background in fibre technology inspired her to create a makeup remover was effective, non-toxic, environmentally friendly, and cost-efficient. Face Halo is currently the market leader dominating the market share in the four big Australian major retailers: Priceline, Myer, Coles and Woolworths. The US, the world’s largest single beauty market, has been a key target for Face Halo for some time, as the brand has expanded overseas in countries like the UK and Canada. The brand will be rolled out across 1246 stores Ulta Beauty stores in the US. Ulta Beauty will stock the complete Sustainable System range including their best-selling hero products Face Halo Original, Face Halo PRO, Face Halo X, Face Halo Body and Accessories Pack, as well as an Ulta exclusive 2 pack of the Original Face Halo makeup remover. The US expansion is expected to grow global Face Halo sales by more than 20 per cent.
The head-to-toe Face Halo Sustainable System will now be available in more than 10,000 stores globally with the brand having also secured further iconic international retail partners in the past six months including Douglas Germany, Zalando in the EU, Rite Aid, Kohl’s, THG (The Hut Group) USA, Superdrug, John Lewis Partnership, Cult Beauty UK and Holt Renfrew Canada. “While Face Halo has achieved international success in the UK and Australia, launching into more than 1,200 Ulta stores is an extremely exciting prospect,” Lizzy said. “Unlike their British and Australian counterparts, US consumers are only at the start of their sustainability journey, so we are looking forward to changing the American beauty landscape and positioning Face Halo as the frontrunner and champion of the conscious beauty movement.” Lizzy estimates that once the brand is fully rolled out in all stores, one Face Halo pad will sell every 20 seconds across the globe. With each pad replacing 500 make up wipes, that is more than 870 million make up wipes saved from landfill every year.
Three entrepreneurs create plant-based perfume range
December retail sales up 9.6 per cent to $30.4 billion
Three entrepreneurs who were shocked at how many fillers and alcohol were used in perfume decided to create their own luxurious line of fragrance products. Jarryd Burns, co-founder of Thankyou Group, Nicole Short, ex head of innovation at Thankyou Group and Joel Whittaker, founder of chocolate start up The Cocoa Alliance and ex general manager at Thankyou Group, created Narrative Lab, an innovative, plant-based perfume business. “The most toxic ingredient in perfumes, colognes, and aftershaves tends to be ethanol or isopropyl alcohol,” Jarryd explained. “The scented ingredients in perfume are infused into these alcohols as a way of preserving and stabilising the product’s desired scent. That musk-like fragrance in your perfume may be something else entirely, concocted from any number of the fragrance industry’s 3,100 stock chemical ingredients; the blend of which is almost always kept hidden from the consumer.” Narrative Lab launched in 2019 with a range of innovative solid fragrances for men and women, that are customisable. Each comes in a metal vessel that swivels open to reveal a palette of solid wax containing three versions of the same base fragrance and can be refilled utilising the clever magnet system. The brand has now expanded its parfum oil collection, adding new 25ml Parfum Oil Droppers. These black glass bottles are an ‘at home’ parfum and can also be used as a refill for their travel friendly and on-the-go Parfum Oil Rollerballs. The parfum oil range contains a nourishing blend of plant-based oils including jojoba, grapeseed and safflower oils and are vegan and nut oil free.
Statistics can be interpreted from an optimistic or a cautious viewpoint. The Covid-19 pandemic is still causing sudden lockdowns and restrictions, but the Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABN) has reported buoyant retail sales figures for the month of December - up 9.6 per cent to $30.4 billion by contrast to the same month in 2019. Over the whole December quarter, retail sales increased 2.5 per cent, following a rise of 6.5 per cent in the September quarter. The quarterly rise was driven by Victoria (12.8%), as volumes recovered following Covid-19 restrictions from August to October, reveals Ben James, the Director of Quarterly Economy Wide Surveys. “Without the Victorian rise, seasonally-adjusted volumes would have fallen in the December quarter.” The Australian Retailers Association (ARA) has opted for the glass-half-full interpretation. According to Paul Zahra, CEO of the ARA, the latest figures show year-on-year increases across the major retail categories with household goods up $837 million, or 18 per cent, clothing, footwear and personal accessories up $221 million, or 10 per cent, and department stores up $82 million, or 5 per cent. “Online sales continue to strengthen, making up 9.1 per cent of total retail sales in December 2020, compared to 6.6 per cent in December 2019,” he noted. Although the ARA is expecting sales to soften in 2021, following the ending of JobKeeper and JobSeeker supplements in March, the organisation believes there is a lot of momentum in the market and remains cautiously optimistic for the year ahead.
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Hair and Self Tanning Essentials Bondi Sands Aero Self Tanning Foam Ultra Dark www.bondisands.com.au CoLab Original Dry Shampoo www.colab-hair.com Fudge Professional Clean Blonde Violet Toning Shampoo www.sabrecorp.com.au évolis Professional Promote Treatment Mask www.evolisproducts.com.au Pump Haircare Soft Curl Gel www.pumphaircare.com ModelCo Tan Water Light-Medium www.modelco.com O&M Frizzy Logic Shine Serum www.originalmineral.com.au Aveda Shampure Composition Oil www.aveda.com.au Klorane Dry Shampoo with Oat Milk www.klorane.com/au-en Batiste Dry Shampoo Plus Beautiful Brunette www.batistehair.com.au Swisse Beauty Hair Nutrition for Women swisse.com.au
Photo Credit: Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au
Because Healthy Hair is the Ultimate Accessory to Sun-Kissed, Beach-Babe Skin
ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |39
INDUSTRY NEWS
Investment firm takes stake in Juliette Has a Gun
Romano Ricci, the founder of niche French fragrance brand Juliette Has a Gun, is no stranger to Australia. The suave Frenchman has made flying visits to our shores to unveil his elegant, distinctive perfumes to Australian fans through the brand’s local distributor, Agence de Parfum. Ricci is fragrance royalty. His great-grandmother was the legendary couturier, Nina Ricci, and his grandfather was the creator of one of the 20th century’s best-selling fragrances – L’Air du Temps. Although he describes himself a self-taught, Ricci has worked with some of the great perfumers, including Francis Kurkdjian and Pierre Bourdon of Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. In 2005, he launched Juliette Has a Gun and the brand’s innovative juices, including Miss Charming, Lady Vengeance and Not a Perfume, have become cult favourites worldwide. Global investment firm, Cathay Capital, which manages US$4 billion in assets and specialises in cross-border development in North America, Europe, Asia and Africa, has taken a minority stake in Juliette Has a Gun. The shareholding will accelerate the brand’s direct-to-consumer business and focus on international expansion, notably in China. Juliette Has a Gun is sold in 42 countries, including Australia. During Singles’ Day 2020 in November, the company ranked among the top three brands in the high-end perfume category on Tmall. The Chinese fragrance market is predicted to reach US$1.86 billion by 2023 and the prestige sector is expected to grow by 18 per cent, adds Cathay Capital. In 2018, Juliette Has a Gun began working with Shanghaiheadquartered Ushopal, an omnichannel acceleration platform within Cathay Capital’s stable of companies. In Australia, Juliette Has a Gun is available from Myer, David Jones, Sephora, Adore Beauty and libertineparfumerie.com.au.
Chinese consortium invests $7 million in AuMake Int. AuMake International, the Sydney-based daigou hub, enjoyed fast growth prior to the Covid-19 crisis, achieving sales of AUD$60 million during the 2019/20 fiscal year. The company operated 15 stores, selling Australian and New Zealand brands in four major categories – skincare, healthcare, baby formula and wool – to daigou shoppers and Chinese consumers. Following the departure of international students and the closure of national borders, AuMake has been working overtime to re-position its business. The company quickly re-focused on its online sales channel, notably Broadway Online, and also introduced buy-now-pay-later services from two of China’s major providers – Alipay’s Huabei and Tencent’s Fenfu. Keong Chan, executive chairman of AuMake International (pictured) recently told the Australian Financial Review that he is confident of a return of international students and tourists by the end of the year following the rollout of vaccines against Covid-19. China-based investor, Steven Hu, has led a consortium to invest AUD$7 million in AuMake International. The injection of funds will help AuMake attract new users in Mainland China to boost sales growth and also invest in direct marketing campaigns for new Australian and New Zealand brands.
Estée Lauder reports 5 per cent Q2 growth to US$4.85 billion Skincare proved a winner for the Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) in its second quarter with a global sales jump of 28 per cent to US$2.8 billion. The core Estee Lauder and La Mer brands enjoyed double-digit growth over the period, stoking an overall sales increase of 5 per cent to US$4.85 billion. The multinational’s six-month sales performance reached US$8.42 billion almost the same as the 2019 figure for the same period. The Asia/Pacific region was the epicentre of growth, experiencing a sales surge of 35 per cent in Q2, notably in mainland China and travel retail. 40| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
The launch of the new Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex springboarded Estee Lauder to become the top-selling beauty brand on Alibaba’s Tmall during the 2020 Singles’ Day shopping festival. La Mer was the top-selling luxury beauty brand during the Singles’ Day frenzy, driven by strong demand for The Concentrate and The Treatment Lotion. Global makeup sales dipped 25 per cent in Q2. Fragrance lifted 6 per cent, led by double-digit and strong growth from the Le Labo, Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, Jo Malone, Tom Ford Beauty and Clinique brands.
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INDUSTRY NEWS
L’Oréal buys Japanese luxury derm brand
Puig re-structures with new derma division
The dermocosmetic skincare category soared in 2020. L’Oréal’s La Roche-Posay is now the number one dermocosmetic brand in the world and the multinational’s CeraVe, acquired in 2017, is enjoying a major revival among younger consumers spring boarded by TikTok. L’Oréal has also been beefing up its strength in the cosmeceutical sector with SkinCeuticals, the number one globally recognised skincare brand for antioxidants. To spearhead further growth in Asia, L’Oréal has acquired Takami Co, the Japanese dermatologist-developed luxury skincare brand. Founded in 1999 by Dr Hiroshi Takami as a prestige brand with an emphasis on peeling, Takami’s Skin Peel Pre-Serum is known as the “Little Blue Bottle” to its legions of fans in Japan and across Asia. The brand achieved revenues of 50 million euros (AUD$78.76 million) in 2019 and sales are growing fast in China, where Takami is mainly sold online or through selected distribution. L’Oréal already had a long-term licensing relationship with Dr Takami, which has been renewed in the new deal. The agreement also includes a collaboration contract with the brand’s two dermatological clinics in the ritzy Tokyo suburb of Omotesando. The Takami brand is a natural fit for L’Oréal’s Luxe division, alongside 26 globally recognised names such as Lancôme, Giorgio Armani and YSL Beauty. According to Jerome Bruhat, president of L’Oréal Japan, Takami enjoys a strong reputation in skincare expertise, a unique visual identity and a core of loyal customers in Japan. “These are the pillars of the brand’s success that we will grow further in the future.”
Global beauty market ‘will exceed 2019 sales this year’
Making predictions is a fraught business at any time and the beginning of the year is usually marked by a torrent of guesstimates from experts and pundits. This year is different, though, and we haven’t seen the flood of New Year forecasts that normally hit the headlines as soon as the Festive Season is over. McKinsey & Co is bucking this cautious trend with its recently released study, The State of Beauty 2021. The global consultancy firm is optimistic that the beauty industry will rebound this year. China has bounced back from a 40 per cent decline in beauty sales at the start of 2020 and is predicted to log 42| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
growth of 8 to 10 per cent in 2021. McKinsey forecasts that the US market will return to growth by mid-year and will enjoy an uptick of 3 to 4 per cent through to December. By contrast, Europe and Japan will be slower to make up for losses during the Covid-19 pandemic and will not achieve 2019 beauty revenues until 2022. Some categories suffered more during the coronavirus crisis, notably colour cosmetics. McKinsey estimates that global makeup sales will slip 2 per cent through to the end of the year to US$71 billion. Prestige fragrance sales will continue to experience challenges with sales slipping 12 per cent to US$42 billion. Haircare and personal care sales are on track to enjoy modest growth of 2 per cent this year to US$73 billion and US$146 billion, respectively. Skincare will continue to shine with revenues expected to grow by 5 per cent this year to US$159 billion. Overall, McKinsey expects global beauty and personal care sales in 2021 to increase to US$491 billion.
Most people associate Puig with fragrance as the maker of the best-selling Paco Rabanne, Carolina Herrera and Jean Paul Gaultier juices. But the Spanish multinational is more than the fifth largest company in the global perfume market. It is also the third largest dermo-cosmetic skincare player in European pharmacies after Pierre Fabre and L’Oréal. Puig has majority stakes in Uriage, the French thermal spring water brand, and Apivita, the Greek skincare brand based on bee products. It also owns 50 per cent of ISDIN, the anti-ageing and photo-aging skincare brand. Uriage and ISDIN both have top 10 rankings across European pharmacies. All three brands are available online in Australia. A restructure of the Puig business into three major divisions, including the creation of a new Derma category, acknowledges the company’s diversity across fragrance, skincare and colour cosmetics. Puig acquired a majority stake in Charlotte Tilbury in June last year and the new re-shuffle sees the luxury British beauty and skincare brand head up its own division. The third division – beauty and fashion – includes Paco Rabanne, Carolina Herrera, Jean Paul Gaultier, Penhaligon’s, L’ Artisan Parfumeur, Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garcons, Christian Louboutin and the lifestyle brands of Shakira, Antonio Banderas, Benetton and Spanish designer, Adolfo Dominguez. After the new positioning began on January 1, Puig is aiming to reach sales of 3 billion euros (AUD$4.82 billion) by 2023 and more than 4 billion euros (AUD$6.43 billion) by 2025. The company also has high hopes for its digital and Chinese businesses, with predictions that they will respectively account for 30 per cent and 25 per cent of overall revenues within the next five years.
The evidence is undeniable. The increase in Zoom and FaceTime meetings has prompted a surge in demand for non-invasive injectables and fillers worldwide. The desire for younger-looking healthy skin is at an all-time high and is also fast-tracking the anti-ageing treatment sector. According to Coherent Market Insights, the global market intelligence and consultancy firm, the top two categories in the worldwide anti-ageing market are anti-wrinkle serums, moisturisers and treatments and botulinum toxin injections. The global anti-ageing market is currently valued at US$21.06 billion. But over the next five years it is expected to grow to US$34.49 billion – a CAGR of 7.3 per cent. Topical products such as serums and creams have the largest market share at 45.9 per cent, followed by anti-stretchmark products, sunscreens and naturals, notes Coherent Market Insights. Botulinum toxin injections from leading brands such as Botox, Dysport, Xeomin and Jeuveau have the biggest market share of the global aesthetics market, followed by dermabrasion, microdermabrasion, chemical peels, fractional laser resurfacing, dermal fillers and non-ablative rejuvenation. The top companies in the global anti-ageing market include: Allergan (the maker of Botox), The Estée Lauder Companies, Shiseido, Beiersdorf (the parent company of Nivea and La Prairie), L’Oréal, NuFACE (the microcurrent facial toning device brand) and Rodan + Fields, the #1 skincare brand in the US with more than 2 million customers in the US, Canada and Australia.
Sephora to open 850 shop-in-shops in Kohl’s stores
INDUSTRY NEWS
Topicals and injectables market to reach US$34.49 billion
The two leading specialist beauty chains in the US – Ulta Beauty and Sephora – have breathed new life into the strategy of opening concept stores in retail chains. Late last year, Ulta announced a mega-deal with Target to roll out an initial 100 store-in-stores. Sephora has followed suit with a new partnership with Kohl’s, the largest department store chain in the US with 1,158 locations. Sephora has long been present in J.C. Penney department stores and revised the agreement earlier this year, prior to a wind-down of the partnership in 2023. Sephora will open at least 850 concept stores throughout Kohl’s network by 2023 to replace the J.C. Penney deal. The first 200 will open by the Northern Hemisphere Autumn this year and Sephora will launch as the exclusive online beauty partner on kohls.com It’s a win-win for both companies. Sephora’s aim is to grow its customer base and Kohl’s is looking to entice new and younger shoppers. Each store will measure 232 square metres and offer more than 100 brands. The staff will be Sephora-trained beauty advisors. Sephora will continue to open standalone stores in the US. Its target of 100 stores by the end of 2020 was affected by the Covid-19 pandemic, but will resume this year.
First-of-its-kind study on the longterm use of face masks Wearing face masks to ward off colds and flu has been a habit in South Korea for years, as it has in other Asian countries. But the Covid-19 pandemic made the practice mandatory in October for anyone over the age of 14. AmorePacific, one of the two major giants of the South Korean cosmetic industry alongside LG Household and Healthcare, recently conducted a first-ofits-kind study on non-health workers to understand how wearing face masks for extended periods affected the skin. The maker of the Innisfree, Laneige and Etude House brands is the 12th largest cosmetic company in the world and devotes a significant part of its profits to R&D. The AmorePacific Research Institute of Technology discovered that wearing a mask for one to six hours can raise the skin’s
temperature on the cheeks, chin, forehead and around the mouth, potentially leading to redness. The reason? – a combination of the person’s warm breath and the sealing effect of the mask. However, there was no significant difference in the rise of temperature between one to six hours of wearing a mask, so the length of time isn’t an issue. Maskne has become a widely-used term
for breakouts caused by mask-wearing and the research underlines why. Sebum production increases on the forehead, cheeks and chin when a person wears a mask. Not surprisingly, the drying effect of masks causes the mid-face area and around the mouth to experience lower levels of hydration, by contrast to areas of the face that are left bare. The researchers noted that wearing a mask during the Covid-19 pandemic is essential, but at the same time preparing for expected skin changes is also important for skin health. In this respect, our findings suggest the skin covered with the face mask needs to be treated extra carefully due to changes like redness, increased sebum production and loss of hydration. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |43
INDUSTRY NEWS
Majority of Australians ‘feel safe shopping in-store’
Lockdowns and the mandatory and recommended wearing of face masks in shopping centres hasn’t dampened Australia’s love of shopping. A new survey from RepTrak, the global company which monitors the reputations of corporations and places through consumer surveys, has revealed that the majority of Aussies feel safe when shopping. More than 10,000 Australians were surveyed and 65 per cent said they felt safe shopping in a supermarket with 20 per cent feeling neutral. Similar percentages – 64 per cent and 20 per cent – felt safe or neutral shopping on a street. While 56 per cent and 21 per cent felt safe or neutral in a shopping centre. The venues that ranked highest for feeling unsafe were: public transport (46%), exercising indoors at gyms or swimming pools (40%) and cinemas (40%). Visiting a GP or medical service, including pharmacies and chemists, had the highest safety rating of 69 per cent with 15 per cent feeling neutral. Australian retailers have worked incredibly hard and spared no expense to ensure staff and customer comfort and safety, often going above and beyond the health requirements, said Paul Zahra, CEO of the Australian Retailers Association (ARA). He also believes that the rollout of Covid-19 vaccines will further boost customer confidence and safety. “Most of our members think retail workers should be prioritised for the vaccine, given their essential services status. They’ve been on the frontline throughout the pandemic, ensuring people can access essential items, and were often peoples’ only interactions outside of home during lockdown,” he added.
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The Total Beauty Network team pictured all together pre Covid-19.
TBN unveils international expansion plans Total Beauty Network (TBN) recently held their annual conference virtually, preparing the team to help salons and retailers reach their targets in 2021. TBN, the parent company of Inika Organic, Raww Cosmetics, Colour by TBN and DB Cosmetics, reported four per cent growth in 2020. TBN CEO Tony Rechtman said “through the many challenges” that he was “proud that we all worked together to deliver the best ever fourth quarter in 2020”. “There were so many achievements this year that are worth mentioning,” he said. “We stuck to our Covid-19 company goals of zero infections in the workplace, 100 per cent of staff retained in their jobs, and 100 per cent support for staff, customers, and suppliers.” Overall, TBN received, processed and shipped more than 83,200 orders. “This is a phenomenal result thanks to everyone’s hard work and determination,” Tony said. Business communication expert and author Chris Helder was a guest speaker at the online event, who motivated staff with concepts of adventure mindset and uncertainty acceptance. TBN’s premium brand, Inika Organic, which is vegan and cruelty-free, recorded growth in Australia of three per cent on the previous year and was launched on Australia’s online fashion retailer The Iconic. Locally, the brand launched into 66 salons and 48 health stores in Australia. The cosmetics range was taken up by 117 new businesses, which is a 22 per cent increase on last year. Meanwhile, skincare went into 148 retail stores and 22 professional salons, taking the total to 317 outlets. Globally, increased ranging for the brand was secured worldwide including 28 per cent growth in Europe plus expanded ranging in Asia with an Inika Organic flagship store due to launch on Tmall China this year. Already trading in Hong Kong, Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore and Korea, Tmall China will be a further addition to the brand’s Asia portfolio and will be supported through local communication tools. This year, DB Cosmetics celebrates 15 years in operation. Positioning for the brand will continue to champion ‘pro-age and fabulous’ beauty, supporting community pharmacy shoppers and DB consumers aged 40-70. DB Cosmetics remains the number one cosmetics brand in Australian community pharmacy, reporting its best-performing Christmas sales ever. The brand also sold well over a $1.5 million worth of its hand sanitiser and saw huge growth in the fragrance category. Colour by TBN was up 11 per cent on their 2020 budget and 22 per cent above 2019. The number one nail brand in community pharmacy achieved 445 new stands and launched into 37 Daiso stores for the first time. Daiso Australia General Manager Garry King said: “Colour by TBN is performing above and beyond all expectations with between one and two stands per store Meanwhile, TBN’s youngest brand, Raww Cosmetics, achieved the biggest growth in the company with 38 per cent revenue growth for 2020. The brand saw record Christmas sales while opening 14 new cosmetics stands, 27 aromatherapy accounts, and 25 skincare accounts in salons. Raww Cosmetics launched their skincare range into 45 Myer stores from October 2020 and achieved amazing sell-through sales.
A Fragrant Affair The Best, Classic Fragrances That Have Stood the Test of Time.
Photo Credit: Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au
Glasshouse Fragrances A Tahaa Affair Vanilla Caramel Soy Candle www.glasshousefragrances.com Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt Cologne www.jomalone.com.au Lumira Desert Nights Eau de Parfum www.atelierlumira.com Miu Miu Eau de Parfum www.coty.com Tom Ford Black Orchid Parfum www.elcompanies.com Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum www.puig.com/en Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume www.libertineparfumerie.com.au Creed Aventus www.libertineparfumerie.com.au Carolina Herrera Good Girl Eau de Parfum www.puig.com/en Goldfield & Banks Pacific Rock Moss www.goldfieldandbanks.com
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AINSLIE WALKER TALKS
Niche
Fragrance News AUTUMN FRAGRANCE
UPDATE
From online master classes to an Art Quartet concert experience product launch, here is the latest roundup of happenings in the fragrance world. More than a year on from Covid-19 ‘gracing’ our shores, we continue to glance to the past, comparing then and now - the world has changed, and these changes are set to continue into the foreseeable future. We are detoxing from being cooped up in our homes, exploring and travelling within our own states and parts of Australia tentatively. We are still dreaming of foreign shores, which we may not be able to visit for at least a year. Looking around the world of niche fragrance in Australia, changes to both online and retail experiences have adjusted, helping us not only find new signature scents for home and personal use, but also to find some escapes and relief from the sometimes monotonous ‘new normal’. The following ‘evolutions’ seem here to stay: ARMCHAIR NICHE TRAVEL: Niche fragrances in particular hold a lot of history, stories, emotions and rare materials from all over the world; hence we can easily be transported by the magic 46| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
The Lore Perfumery team.
of what is contained inside these bottles. Lore Perfumery in Melbourne continues their online Zoom travel experiences into 2021, whereby attendees are sent fragrance samples inspired by different parts of the world. The Zoom session then takes you on a world tour where you stop and ‘smell’ these destinations. It’s an ingenious way the team at Lore have enhanced reach and
online sales beyond their bricks and mortar business during 2020. www.loreperfumery.com.au ONLINE MASTER CLASSES: Agence de Parfum have continued their online master classes into 2021, where attendees are sent niche fragrance samples and then attend an online Zoom session
REDUCED SIZES FROM AUSTRALIAN NICHE BRANDS:
Map of the Heart 30ml sized collection.
Map of the Heart 30ml sized collection, $125 each, launched late 2020 with three additional added to the collection - Valour, Ecstasy and Love - in time for Valentine’s Day 2021. Collectors are encouraged to have a little wardrobe of scents rather than one signature and this trend is growing exponentially internationally. Fragrances can be layered or combined for different moods, occasions and even times of the day! www.mapoftheheart.com Goldfield and Banks launched a 50ml size of their best-selling Pacific Rock Moss in January 2021 and no doubt the rest of the collection will follow suite later in 2021. www.goldfieldandbanks.com AUSTRALIAN FRAGRANCE LAUNCH: SASKIA BY PERFUMER CHRISTOPHE LAUDAMIEL FOR GRANDIFLORA February 2021 saw the premiere launch in Sydney of Grandiflora’s new fragrance, Saskia - the sixth fragrance in the collection, following on from Madagascan Jasmine, Boronia, Magnolia Sandrine, Magnolia Michel and Queen of the Night. Namesake Saskia Havekes has owned and run her cult ‘flower cave’ for 25 years in Sydney’s Potts Point. The fragrance centres around Saskia’s favourite flower, Gardenia, and in addition is inspired by the signature scent of the flower cave, which Saskia and her busy team have created via their work with their carefully curated selection of plants and flowers found within.
The fragrance is by French perfumer Christopher Laudamiel and contains Australian ingredients; kunzea, myrtle and boronia leaf, along with lavender, all sourced in Tasmania, supporting the local farmers and distilleries. Also in the notes is ginger (perhaps a nod to Saskia’s iconic ginger 01. locks) violet leaves, pink pepper, water hyacinth, flower shop accord, petrichor, ylang ylang, mimosa, immortelle and oakmoss. For the launch, a live sensory event was held in a private ballroom in Woollahra where Sydney Art Quartet’s Artistic Director, James Beck, created Remember Me for the event, including performing six pieces, one inspired by each of the Grandiflora fragrances. Saskia and her team created spellbinding floral installations for the event to add to the immersive atmosphere – becoming one of Sydney’s most talked about summer events. www.grandiflorafragrance.com
FRAGRANCE NEWS
with experts taking them through specific brands and launches. The cost of the class is redeemable against purchases at the time of the event – what a fantastic way to experience and sell fragrance, while building a community of likeminded and enthusiastic fragrance lovers! www.agencedeparfum.com.au
02. 01. The Sydney Art Quartet with artistic director James Beck on cello.
02. Composer Elena Kats-Chernin with Grandiflora founder Saskia Havekes.
Regional Niche Travel: With people exploring locally and regionally across Australia, supporting bricks and mortar businesses is high on the agenda. It is good to see finally the growth in niche perfume trending and reaching these regional areas. Here are some of my favourites: NSW • Hawkes General Store, Orange: Maison Rabatchi, Gallivant. • Jumbled, Orange: Lark Perfumery. • The Orangery, Bowral: Maison Rabatchi, Naomi Goodsir, Viadeimille, Essential Parfums. • Amara Home, Berry: Santa Maria Novella, Trudon and perfumes. • Bangalow Pharmacy, Bangalow: Huge selection of fragrance. • Glam, Bowral: Huge selection of fragrance. • Lisa & Co, Macleay: Lark Perfumery. SA • One Rundle Trading Co, Adelaide: Boutique selection of fragrance. VIC • Sweet Fern, Ballarat: Parle Moi, Nasomatto, Beso Beach, Histoires de Parfums, 2787 Parfums, Essential Perfumes, Viadeimille, Meo Fusciuni • Sniff Perfumery, Geelong: Huge selection of fragrance. • Harry & Me, Daylesford: Carner Barcelona, Eight & Bob, Nasomatto, Orto Parisi. • Buster McGee, Daylesford: Parle Moi, Mihan, Laboratorio Olfattivo. • Love Spell, Kyneton: Histoires de Parfums. • The Woolshed, Kyneton: Carner Barcelona, Beso Beach. WA • Finity Concept, Geraldton: Eight & Bob. • Finch, Margaret River: Parle Moi, Essential Parfums.
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Out & About SEPHORA AUSTRALIA’S FLAGSHIP REOPENS AFTER DESIGN TRANSFORMATION Beauty enthusiasts turned out in their droves to see Sephora Australia’s flagship, which has reopened after a complete design transformation. Housed in a heritage building along Pitt Street Mall, the new store has a brand-new look that heralds a new beauty era that keeps innovation and seamless customer experience at its core. The new Sephora Pitt Street Flagship resides in the historic Soul Pattinson Building, a 135-year-old Victorian style maison, with large spaces for customers to explore, test and try the latest products and trends, in a Covid-19 safe and welcoming environment. More than 75 beauty brands including Fenty Skin, Huda Beauty and the Sephora Collection are available on the 470sqm shop floor, with all brands housed on the one level. Elevated Sephora Services available in store include dry hair styling from Blow on the Go, signature brow waxes and tints from Benefit and two new beauty studios, equipped with adjustable mirror lighting and multiple application areas to explore and play with Sephora’s BAs. Alia Gogi, President of Sephora Asia, said the new flagship store “brings together all the elements that our Sydney customer is passionate about – a wide exclusive brand portfolio, personalised services and differentiated rewards for our loyal customer”. “Six years after Sephora opened its first store in Sydney, Australia, and we’re so excited to reopen our iconic flagship with a fresh and energetic store design that is all about experiential retail while preserving the heritage of Soul Pattinson Building,” he said. Beth Glancey, General Manager of Sephora Australia, said: “We are thrilled to be re-opening our flagship store on Pitt Street in the beautiful Soul Pattinson building and to give back to our customers who have supported us over the past few years.”
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Michelle Ruzzene covers the latest product launch events showcasing the best in retail beauty right now.
O&M founder and CEO Jose Bryce Smith
O&M HOLDS GLAM SUITE EVENT TO CELEBRATE WOMEN Original & Mineral, one of Australia’s leading brands of natural, safe and effective hair care products, hosted an intimate Glam Suite. Founder and CEO of O&M Jose Bryce Smith, who said the company had “always tried to bridge that gap between natural and luxury and clean and glamorous” emphasised the day was a way of “celebrating women”. “I always love celebrating women,” she said. “We love men, we can’t live without them, but frankly, women are coming forward more and more and it’s just so nice to see,” she said. Guests get ready in the glam suite. Jose said around 85 percent of people in hairdressing were women and 44 per cent of entrepreneurs opening businesses were women. Jose partnered with people and businesses aligned with O&M’s values for the event including Elise Vaughan Creative Direction & Design, Grant King from Smile Catering, photographer Liz Ham, Toga Group for the event space and Tanya Perrilli from Fashion Alta Moda. “I love what Tanya is doing with Alta Moda as it so resonated with me with sustainability,” Jose said. “I have to do so many event and to be able to hire clothes form her and to feel glamorous without worrying about them sitting in my wardrobe is great.” “Women need to support each other,” she said. “There are so many statistics about what it would to do the world economy if women actually reached their potential.” For the event, guests were indulged in a hair and makeup session over champagne and cocktails, before choosing a designer dress from Fashion Alta Moda. Photographer Liz Ham then snapped the guests their luxury gowns in front of a wind machine. Each guest was given their profile shot to take home along with a selection of O&M products.
FINISHING TOUCH FLAWLESS UNVEILS LATEST BEAUTY TOOLS Finishing Touch Flawless unveiled its latest beauty innovations at an intimate media session at Ovolo, Woolloomooloo. The original Finishing Touch Flawless, a facial hair removal device that erases hair quickly and painlessly without the irritation that comes with plucking, waxing or depilatories, has been joined by a range of three more beauty tools. These include Finishing Touch Flawless Dermaplane Glow, which uses a blade to exfoliates dry, dead skin and removes peach fuzz, Finishing Touch Flawless Contour, a vibrating rose quartz facial roller and massager designed to help improve skin tone and reduce the appearance of fine lines and Finishing Touch Flawless Nu Razor, which features an 18k gold-plated head and a bi-directional pivoting head. Leah Porter, brand manager at Finishing Touch Flawless, said at the event the brand was “keeping the hair
removal heritage” but “moving more into the beauty space”. “Our mission is to provide simple, affordable products for everyday beauty concerns and we are about bringing the day salon, the salon and the dermatologist into your own home, especially in this world we now live on,” she said. “Many people don’t want to go into salons, they prefer to do things at home, so we’ve provided a range of products you can do in your own home at an affordable price.” Speaking about the brand’s cult product, the Finishing Touch Flawless, Leah said the device was designed to be discreet and looked like a lipstick but contained state-of-the-art technology that microscopically removed hair. “They look like lipsticks so you can pop them in your bag, you don’t have to be embarrassed if you’ve got it,” she said. “You can tidy up the hair on your face and the brows on the go and be flawless anywhere, anytime.”
OUT & ABOUT
GARNIER HOSTS MOONLIGHT SCREENING FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Garnier invited media and guests to a night under the stars for Moonlight Cinema’s VIP screening of ‘I Am Greta’. The documentary, directed by Nathan Grossman, follows Greta Thunberg, a teenage climate activist from Northern Europe, on her international crusade to get people to listen to scientists about the world’s environmental problems. Garnier donated $2 for every ticket sold nationally from the Presenting Partner screenings of I Am Greta on to Australian non-profit, clean up movement, Take 3 For The Sea. Garnier marketing director Jane Hanger said the brand was “making a conscious decision to work with partners that share a collective commitment to create a sustainable future for the next generation”. “As Garnier works to transform the beauty industry, we are proud to support Moonlight in its ongoing efforts to preserve the environment in which it operates,” she said. “The integration of paperless ticketing, recycling stations and the use of biodegradable materials at all venues as well as Moonlight Cinema’s partnership with World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), demonstrates a real commitment to sustainable business practices and values.” Cinema goers were also able to visit the Garnier Garden Cart to find out more about Garnier’s commitments to Greener Beauty and to take home some products. Garnier, one of the largest brands in the L’Oréal family, was the Official Green Partner and Beauty Sponsor of the outdoor cinema for the 2020-21 Summer Season.
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OUT & ABOUT
SWIISH HOLDS BESPOKE WELLNESS EXPERIENCE EVENT One SWIISH Supergreen Superfood Powder, a naturopathapproved supplement with over 40 different super-powered ingredients including green veggies, fruits, probiotics and superfoods, sells every nine minutes. The superfood powder was just one supplement showcased by SWIISH co-founders and sisters, Sally Obermeder and Maha Corbett, at a bespoke wellness experience event. The superfood powder, which took more than two years to create and perfect, is part of the wellness range which also includes Fibre Cleansing Powder, Glow Collagen Powder, Sleep Superfood Powder, Immunity Superfood Powder, Detox Superfood Powder and more. There are 23 products in the wellness range that are available in 48 countries. Sally told guests at the event the concept for the wellness range started when she was undergoing treatment for breast cancer, which she was diagnosed with in 2011, when she was 40 weeks pregnant with her first child, Annabelle. “SWIISH Wellness really began when we were looking for a green powder in the midst of my cancer treatment,” the media personality and television presenter explained. “Maha and I were already making smoothies and had noticed how amazing having heaps of greens was for my recovery. We thought if this is good, more is better, so let’s have a super green supplement.” Sally said every product they tried “tasted horrendous”. “We couldn’t find one we wanted so we made one,” she explained. “It helps to improve vitality, increase energy, support immunity and aid digestion – and it tastes good too.” Maha said the best part about her job was hearing feedback from customers who loved the products.
Sally Obermeder, Ali Daddo, Kylie Gillies and Maha Corbett at the SWIISH event.
“Hearing how our products make our community feel and about the positive impact is has on our customers is just amazing,” she said. Television presenter Kylie Gillies hosted the event, which included a variety of wellness stations for guests to visit after completing a SWIISH Wellness Cheat Sheet to discover which supplements would be most suitable for them. SWIISH, which stands for Stylish Women Inspiring Inner Strength, Health and Happiness, originally started off a blog but has evolved into wellness, beauty, book and fashion hub.
VITAMAN SHOWCASES PRODUCTS AT ROOFTOP SPA EVENT Vitaman was showcased to media at a pop up rooftop spa at Paramount Recreation Club in Surry Hills, Sydney. The men’s skincare and grooming label, backed by Australian former professional footballer Tim Cahill, is used in luxury spas globally including W Resorts, The Hilton and Four Seasons in the Maldives. Clare Castles, director and founder of Vitaman, guided guests through the product range while skin therapists
provided facials to the male guests and hand massages to the female attendees using the locally made, natural products. Clare said after 20 years success with the brand overseas, she wanted to promote the Australian brand locally. “We wanted to create an informal, relaxed environment to speak one on one with beauty/grooming editors, allowing them to experience the textures and natural aromas of our products, while learning
Founder and director of VitaMan Clare Castles.
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of our 20 year export story,” Clare said. “We’ve been so focussed on our export business and now we want to focus on building more brand awareness here in Australia.” Clare said she was “delighted with the response and positive feedback to the brand” on the day. “The casual event on the rooftop was the perfect location to share our early beginnings and our overseas successes,” she said. Clare said following Covid-19, she was “determined more than ever to support local Australian packaging manufacturers, as well as support our Australian stockists both on and off-line”. “We’ll continue our mission of being 100% Australian made,” she said. “We have some exciting new products planned and, as always, they will be natural, performance based and of course have amazing natural aromas.”
OUT & ABOUT
ELIZABETH ARDEN LAUNCHES TWO HYBRID FORMULA PRODUCTS Elizabeth Arden invited media to find their perfect foundation shade via an intimate appointment at La Porte Space in Rosebery, Sydney. Attendees were given a one-on-one makeover with a make-up artist, while acclaimed makeup artist, author and global brand ambassador for M.A.C Cosmetics, Nicole ‘Pinky’ Thompson, talked through the brand’s latest launches. Pinky said the new Elizabeth Arden Flawless Finish Skincaring Foundation was available in 40 shades and the hybrid formula, made with hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and vitamin E nourished the skin. She said the longwear, natural finish foundation delivered buildable, lightweight coverage. Also launched was the Flawless Start Hydrating Serum Primer. This multi-tasking product prepped the skin for fresh, radiant skin, Pinky said. Powered by microfluidic technology, droplets of oil are suspended in a hydrating gel. The lightweight texture glides on and bursts onto the skin, leaving skin fresh and supple – a perfect canvas for Flawless Finish Skincaring Foundation. Elizabeth Arden is a major American cosmetics, skin
Nicole ‘Pinky’ Thompson
care and fragrance company founded by the late CanadianAmerican businesswoman Elizabeth Arden, who passed away in 1966 aged 84. In September 2016, Elizabeth Arden was acquired by Revlon. The event at La Porte Space was hosted by the brand’s PR company, AMPR.
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PHARMACY NEWS
Priceline introduces Afterpay across store network
Priceline stores around the country now offer Afterpay, allowing customers to pay for beauty and health products in four fortnightly instalments. Available on the entire Priceline range of more than 13,000 products including make-up, fragrances, toiletries, and prescription items, the introduction of Afterpay responds to research that 10.9 million Australians would use Afterpay for healthcare products and one quarter (24%) would be likely to use Afterpay for pharmacy products.
To launch the partnership, Priceline and Afterpay collaborated with style and beauty expert, Elle Ferguson to share tips on how to be clever with make-up collections and not break the bank for the latest trends. Priceline acting head of marketing, Gabrielle Tully said, “As the number one retailer for beauty and health products, and personal service, we are now excited to offer Afterpay as one of many payment options. We’ve become even more accessible for Australians on a budget.” Afterpay executive vice president for Australia and New Zealand sales and global in-store, Rachel Kelly added, “Consumers are more conscious about their budgets
Priceline and Afterpay collaborated with style and beauty expert Elle Ferguson.
this year, so we are excited to give beauty lovers the financial freedom to go after their favourite healthcare and beauty products with the availability of Afterpay.”
NZ’s Antipodes expands into pharmacy channel in France Backed by 100 per cent 2000 stores nationwide. natural ingredients from In May 2020, the arguably the cleanest company inked a deal country in the world, the with Purity Life to access Antipodes skincare brand natural product stores and from New Zealand has pharmacies in Canada. been a global hit for more The following month, than 15 years. Antipodes launched on Founded by Elizabeth Amazon in the US. Barbalich, the scientifically Key bestsellers include based green brand is Kiwi Seed Eye Cream and available in over 30 Avocado Pear Nourishing countries, including Night Cream. Antipodes founder Elizabeth Barbalich. Some of the products in the Antipodes range. Australia, New Zealand, Baptise H2O Ultra Japan, the US, the UK and France. brands such as Burt’s Bees and Ahava. Hydrating Water Gel was released in A top seller in Australian pharmacy Antipodes entered the French market 2020. Containing New Zealand manuka chains, including Chemist Warehouse three years ago through 80 upmarket honey and naturally-sourced hyaluronic and Priceline, Antipodes has signed a boutique retail stores. The new acid, the weightless formula increases new agreement with EOYLS Beaute, a agreement heralds the expansion of the skin hydration by 52 per cent in 24 French distributor servicing over 1000 brand into the highly regarded French hours, according to a clinical study by points-of-sale across France for imported pharmacy channel with approximately Dermatest Australia.
Chemist Warehouse delivers products in less than two hours Chemist Warehouse extended its partnership with Australian last mile delivery app, Sherpa, to deliver its products in less than two hours, which claims to be the fastest delivery offered around the country. The online integration to the Chemist Warehouse Kentico ecommerce platform enables online orders to be delivered from any Chemist Warehouse outlet directly to a customer’s home or place of business, in less than two hours. The partnership is the first of its kind for the pharmaceutical sector and allows Chemist Warehouse to extend its reach and fulfilment to customers. ‘The launch of the Chemist Warehouse 52| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
Online Home Delivery Service is a great step forward in achieving a new level of retail convenience,” Sherpa CEO, Duncan Brett said. “Chemist Warehouse online customers can now place orders for retail pharmacy
products and get them delivered in less than two hours via a few clicks on their phones or computers. It re-defines the retail experience and customer convenience.” A spokesperson from Chemist Warehouse parent group, CW Retail added: “We are always working to strengthen and adapt our business. Re-defining the customer service expectation of convenience was a starting point that easily led us to integrating Sherpa’s home delivery App into our enhanced online ordering platform. We are now delivering the ultimate retail experience.” The two-hour delivery service is available to most Chemist Warehouse online shoppers, subject to location and serviceability.
Priceline Pharmacy Rockhampton Upper received the brand’s highest honour, being awarded Store of the Year out of more than 470 stores around Australia. The store converted to the Priceline Pharmacy brand in 2017 and have a “dedicated and passionate team who truly care about their customers”, says general manager of Priceline Pharmacy’s Andrew Vidler. “Every year we are pleased to recognise and celebrate the store that has gone above and beyond in every area, including customer service and overall store experience,” Andrew said. 02.
“Rockhampton Upper is our top store because they have a dedicated and passionate team who truly care about their customers.” The store is part-owned and operated by Dan Carpenter who has played a crucial role in developing his staff by ensuring team members continually develop new skills. Rockhampton Upper took out the top gong at Priceline Pharmacy’s first ever virtual awards ceremony, due to COVID-19, hosted by Chrissie Swan and Joel Creasey. The store’s metrics are impressive, which includes significantly growing its loyal customers through the brand’s Sister Club program, which has more than 7 million
PHARMACY NEWS
Priceline Pharmacy Store of the Year winner announced
members, making it Australia’s largest health and beauty loyalty program. Other award winners on the night included: • Priceline Pharmacy Newcomb – Rising Star Store of the Year • Priceline Pharmacy Riverlink – Priceline Sisterhood Vitality Award • Annie Murray-Parkes (Priceline Pharmacy Port Lincoln) Retail Manager of the Year • Andrew Douglas (Priceline Pharmacy Yass) – Pharmacist of the Year
03. 01. Priceline Store of the Year SA – PLP Firle.
02. Hosts Joel Creasey and Chrissie Swan.
01.
03. Priceline Pharmacy Rockhampton Upper staff celebrate their win.
04. Priceline Store of the Year NSW – The Ponds.
05. Priceline Store of the Year VIC/TAS – Kingston.
06. Priceline Store 04.
05.
06.
of the Year WA – Kalamunda.
API strengthening its operational capabilities Australian Pharmaceutical Industries (API), the parent company of Priceline Pharmacy, Soul Pattinson Chemist and Pharmacist Advice, is strengthening its operational capabilities by committing to a new purpose-built NSW distribution centre in Marsden Park. The facility will be developed by Sydney Business Park, with an estimated Capital Investment Value of $75 million. It will be 32,506 square metres in size on a 43,950 square metre site area located at Hollinsworth Road, Marsden Park. The temperature-controlled facility will feature an automated storage system, an integrated mezzanine and a 7,440 square metre basement for vehicle dispatch. It will also incorporate a range of environmentally sustainable design elements, such as a 500-kilowatt solar system and rainwater harvesting for landscaping and amenity re-use.
“The new distribution centre will provide significantly greater operational benefits through a leading-edge automation system and smart warehouse design that maximises floorspace and promotes safety and sustainability. We are looking forward to moving into this new facility and bolstering our supply chain to continue growing our 110-year-old business,” API general manager of supply chain and consumer brands, Jim Redfern said. API partnered with specialist property and supply chain firm TM Insight in
procuring the new site. TM Insight secured a 15-year lease for API with Sydney Business Park and will now also project manage the new build on behalf of API. “A significant transformation project of this nature will enable API to optimise their core business performance in both the short and long term,” TIM Insight director, Jack Moroney said. “We ran a highly competitive property procurement process to ensure API’s bespoke operating needs were accommodated. Our team now look forward to continuing to work on behalf of API and alongside Sydney Business Park to project manage the delivery of this purpose-built solution and integrate the automation into the base building. This will ensure API are ready to operate efficiently from day one of the lease.” The site is expected to be operational in the second half of 2022. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |53
PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA
Australia’s top pharmacy assistant announced Benjamin King from Alice Springs Pharmacy in Northern Territory was recognised as Australia’s outstanding pharmacy assistant of 2020 after being awarded the Pharmacy Guild of Australia/Maxigesic Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award (PATY).
PATY recognises outstanding pharmacy assistants’ skills, knowledge, leadership and customer service across a 12-month period. Benjamin was selected from over 460 nominated pharmacy assistants and eight state winners, with the prize awarded following a virtual national judging day on Friday. “I am so happy I could bring it home for the Northern Territory. A huge congratulations to all the other contestants – I am incredibly thankful I got to meet them,” Benjamin said. The competition judges commended Benjamin for his positive attitude and commitment to ongoing training and development. The judges were particularly impressed with Benjamin’s enthusiasm and passion towards the pharmacy industry and his dedication to his role as a pharmacy assistant. “Without my customers I would be out of a job – the people of Alice Springs are the heart of Australia,” Benjamin said. “A big thank you to my team at work who have been supportive and helpful in preparing me.” Benjamin takes home over $10,000 in prizes including cash, a training package, educational opportunities and other great rewards. Pharmacy Guild of Australia national
president, George Tambassis, congratulated Benjamin for his valuable contribution to community pharmacy in Australia. “Benjamin has been recognised as always going the extra mile with customers and staff members, which is critical to the future success of the pharmacy industry as our range of services to the public continues to grow,” Mr Tambassis said. “The calibre of PATY nominees has been extremely high, and each PATY finalist has displayed a strong commitment to their work and the industry in what has been a very challenging year for everyone in Australia.” Calvin MacKenzie, general manager of AFT Pharmaceuticals, the award’s major sponsor, also congratulated Benjamin on his achievement. “While the quality of award candidates was once again extremely high, Benjamin was the stand-out pharmacy assistant in the award competition,” Mr MacKenzie said. “I congratulate all eight state winners for standing out as their state’s top pharmacy assistants who are driving the industry forward. “AFT Pharmaceuticals is very honoured
Without my customers I would be out of a job – the people of Alice Springs are the heart of Australia. 54| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
to support PATY and to ensure that the industry is recognising excellence in the frontline of pharmacy.” In addition, Amber Greenwood from South Australia was named the National Glucojel Super Star Award winner. Managed as a subsidiary award within the National Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award, the Glucojel Super Star Award recognises outstanding customer service amongst the top PATY State Finalists. As part of the awards, AFT Pharmaceuticals and Maxigesic created a complimentary education module called “Pharmacy assistants’ role in pain management” which can be accessed by signing up at http://pharmacyassistants. com/education . CONTACT DETAILS THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA (NATIONAL) Level 2, 15 National Circuit, Barton ACT 2600 PO Box 310, Fyshwick, ACT 2609, P: +61 2 6270 1888 F: +61 2 6270 1800 www.guild.org.au
HEALTH & WELLNESS
Health & Wellness Insider secrets, tips, insights and advice from esprit wellness experts on how to live a healthier life.
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Braving YOUR
New World By Andrea Ferrari, esprit Founder
Here comes trouble. You’ve reached New Year, after months of what anyone and everyone would have to agree were ‘challenging’. Good challenging or bad challenging is our own perspective, but a challenging time it was. And now, you’ve arrived in 2021 with a new perspective. With a mindset change. An awakening of sorts. Which brings with it challenges of its own. Have you had an ‘aha’ moment over the last few months and made tweaks to your life? Have you had a realisation that’s caused change in the way to do something? You’ve got over your old self and become a new version of you. This is where the ‘trouble’ is. It’s not YOUR trouble. It’s someone else’s. They have trouble understanding why and what the ‘new you’ is doing. It doesn’t fit THEIR mould of you. Someone else has not been privy to the changes that have occurred in the unique being that is YOU. You have sat with your thoughts. You have mulled over past experiences, past triggers, past joys, past ‘stuff’. The intrinsic, inner you is woven from your life experiences and is uniquely YOU. And now you would like to unveil a tweak, or even a whole new you. Or you simply have an urge to shift a gear. Maybe it’s health related. Maybe it’s relationship related. Maybe you feel a move at work would suit you. A fresh start in a new environment. Or kick an old, un-serving habit. Personal development has never been so on-point in our lifetime than now. Of course, personal change is eons old, going back to time 56| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
immemorial but there have been spikes when huge numbers have brewed a ‘new them’ owing to societal or world circumstances. And today is one of those times. We have a pandemic. We have climate change. We have the circus of American politics. We have the dissolution of faith in big institutions. We have a louder voice of reason favouring ‘the common man’ coming to the surface. Thought-leading experts (and I use those words consciously) are gaining huge audiences via the intelligent, longform interview podcast medium. Mind expanding literature is pushing the boundaries of the so-called ‘Self Help’ category. Personal stories of overcoming adversity and going on to invent, create and inspire are available at the tap of a finger on your laptop. Today’s guru, even hero is the guy who has f**cked up, hit rock bottom and gone on to find a greater him in the process. Recognising your spark of potential in a major meltdown, nay…let’s say it again, a major ‘f**ck up, is one of the strongest triggers to igniting the flame to doing the work to change. I have heard interviews with some of the sweetest philanthropists today where they talk about horrendous dark patches, suicide attempts, addictive relationships with drugs (and that includes alcohol) and allowing their mind and body to fail them and yet deep down in their quagmire they had a moment that sparked a flicker of change. And we all know the power of a pivot. A teeny tiny change, over time, pans out to a humongous change. Do not underestimate an aha moment, even if it’s just a whisper. Pay it the greatest respect. Ask it why it has popped in. It may be “bleedin’ obvious” but it may
HEALTH & WELLNESS
require some contemplation to eke out the greater meaning. The next bit is simple. You just have to act. That’s all. You just have to do the work. Take the steps. It’s one foot after the other. So, on June 28, 2020, my (adult) son said to me: “I’m doing Dry July. Wanna do it with me?” He’s been living at home through COVID so he’s like a flatmate. He’s seen me top up my bubbles flute for the third or fourth time, many times. Presented with contemplating my reply, in three or four seconds, I said: “OK”. Deal done. I’d drunk more than my fair share the day before, my daughter’s 27th birthday, so it was easy to abstain to start with. Then we kicked into July. Naturally, there were some navigation conversations. How was I going? How was he going? What came up for me? How did he find socialising, without? Then came the $64million question. “Are you going to drink after this?” I had read the book How to Stop Drinking Now by Allen Carr (an Easy Way book). It plainly points out that alcohol is a drug. And not only that, it’s a dangerously addictive drug that incites aggression. It fuels the fight in us. The book sets out the scenario of how we’ve been brainwashed to think booze is all part of celebrating…pop the champagne cork at the baby’s christening and let him know from babyhood that drinking alcohol is all part of the celebrations, from birth to death and everything in between. Oh, and you can also drown your sorrows in it. After reading that book, I realised it resonated with my philosophy that “THEY” have come up with a formula for lawful living that selects certain drugs and associated behaviours and not other drugs and associated behaviours. I felt a bit manipulated. This is “THEY’s” package I was living by, yet I’d had no part in the creation of this package. And of course, it extrapolates out across everything: you can do this, but you can’t do that. I suppose you’d call it The Law. But have you seen how some of the creators of these laws behave themselves? Enough said. I didn’t struggle with cravings during Dry July and so I seemed to just flow into August, and then time ticked on and it became October 6 – Day 101 Clean & Sober for me. Then it was Boxing Day. That’s half a year sober. I cannot tell you how fresh, alive, unfoggy and confident I feel about me, myself and I…and my life. But much as I’d like to say it has been troublefree, it hasn’t. I didn’t fit the Andrea-We-Know-And-Love mould anymore. My biggest fear of my going-sober journey was navigating socialising. Not my lack of willpower when I stepped into a bar with all its familiar triggers, but how my friends would react. My approach
was to make it as easy as possible for them not to feel judged themselves and to not worry that we weren’t going to have fun. I made light of it and pressed on with ordering food and lemon-lime-and-bitters. Everything seemed breezy and I was “getting away with it”. But recently a friend shared a few comments in a voice I’d describe as raised: “You’re missing out on so many social events.” “I never see you anymore.” My gut and my diary confirm neither of these are true. It’s just indicative of the “trouble” we have to watch out for as we brave our way through, when we opt out of the mould and make a change for our own very good reasons. Other than that, I have enjoyed the sweet support of my friends not making any big deal of it. And the judgement goes both ways – one friend assured me: “We won’t judge you. And you won’t judge us.” Simple. So, I write all this for those of you who are in early days of change; midway or already flourishing in whatever your self development inspiration is. Be stoic about the new path you’re navigating. Trouble may show its face. Treat it with compassion and it will pass. I’m excited for you. Change takes courage, and every day as you step out on this path you are exercising your courage muscle. Soon it will just be the natural YOU. Every day and every meeting is an opportunity for kindness. Take that baton and run with it my friends and let your skin tingle with goosebumps at what life, This Life, brings you. Andrea x
Podcast Inspo: Longform Thought Leaders across heath, psychology, the environment, change-making, mindset growth. • THE RICH ROLL PODCAST • THE JOE ROGAN EXPERIENCE • NAVAL – Naval Ravikant • BROKEN BRAIN – Dhru Purohit • IMPACT THEORY – Tom Bilyeu • HOW I BUILT THIS – Guy Raz • KWIK BRAIN – Jim Kwik • LUMINARY • ON PURPOSE – Jay Shetty • THE DAILY STOIC – Ryan Holiday • THE CHASE JARVIS LIVE SHOW • THE MODEL HEALTH SHOW – Shawn Stevenson • THE EZRA KLEIN SHOW • THE PSYCHOLOGY PODCAST – Scott Barry Kaufman • THE TIM FERRISS SHOW • UNDER THE SKIN – Russell Brand • HUBERMAN LAB • THE PROF G SHOW – Scott Galloway Notable absences: Tony Robbins, TED Talks etc… mainstreamers – all great. However, my list is MY list – the interviewees provide me with a huge depth of thought provocation and personal evolution. They also evoke curiosity which takes me down a rabbit hole of further investigation and enlightenment…and a weighty reading list, which I LOVE!
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Detox has become a bit of a buzz word and coming into a new year as the silly season closes it’s often something we all feel like doing. In my opinion a full body detox is incomplete without including the mind. And aren’t you sick of toxic thoughts? Then it’s time to get rid of them… but how? I have spent the last five years consistently studying the mind and practices that give me a deeper sense of freedom. After working closely with a disciple of meditation in India, over the course of several months, I began to experience the direct connection between the body and the mind. After meditation sessions I would experience physical symptoms of release that I believe healed my body from chronic anxiety and stress as well as polycystic ovary syndrome, irritable bowel syndrome, cardiac irregularities and muscle tensions. I actually began to physically look younger and healthier from meditation. I consider it part of my daily detox routine. From India to today I love to share what worked for me and brought me to a lifestyle that feels the most free, peaceful and aligned. So how to get started? In my personal experience the best way to detox your mind is to listen to it. Give your mind the attention it has been asking for. This exercise is best done in silence or if that is impossible try plugging your headphones into some non-lyrical music. Find a comfortable seat that you can melt into and once sorted set your timer for the desired time you have (5-10 minutes is a great start). Close your eyes. On your next exhale squeeze out to empty, then draw in a deep breath expanding the chest and lifting the diaphragm. Exhale to empty and repeat at least three more times. Allow your breath to naturally return to normal and in this time start to observe your thoughts and everything that comes up. Note: Many people comment the first
time they do this experience they have a completely empty mind...which surprises a lot of people because one can often feel like they have too much of a busy mind to ever clear it! I think it’s a great realisation to know the mind can be quietened, quite quickly, but many of us just don’t give it the time and space it craves. If this is the case come back to the breath and focus until you start to drift into thought. Allow yourself to drift into each thought. Give them time, watch them shift, change and create stories. Be gentle with yourself. There is no right or wrong. It is not wrong to drift in fact it can feel very cleansing, just gently observe and return to your breath. Feel free to keep a notepad beside you for things you have just remembered to do. Remember: You are not the mind but just the observer. Once the timer has sounded, take a few minutes to sit before you continue on with your day. This is a practice best done daily, as it prevents ‘thought build up.’ If you do not feel slightly lighter and clearer after the first session, then you may need some guidance so please reach out so I can help you.
HEALTH & WELLNESS
Detox
Let’s your mind too!
and breathe into your resistance to let it dissipate, allowing yourself to just feel. I hope you enjoyed reading this article as much as I did writing it. I am SO excited for you to try these exercises and look forward to hearing about your experience. Reach out.
THE PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE
My findings from this practice are that it is the resistance to our thoughts that makes them go around and around like a ferris wheel. In my experience when tension shows up in my mind it is because I am resisting what it is communicating rather than listening and experiencing the emotion behind it no matter how uncomfortable it is. An emotion is energy in motion so stay present knowing it will pass. So, when you next start to feel tense, you can do a mini version of the above exercise
Olivia is an English-born qualified masseuse, meditation and yoga teacher, based in Sydney’s inner west, running Olivia Ferrari Wellness. For bookings and more information: www.oliviaferrariwellness.com ph: 0424 046 301 fb: @oliviaferrariwellness ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |59
BUSINESS esprit’s collection of industry experts and leaders share their thoughts on proven tactics and strategies to build your business and career.
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Round Up
The latest news, views and insights happening in the online world of retail.
ALIBABA’S TOP 10 BEAUTY INDUSTRY TRENDS FOR 2021
Retail Insight, the research and data division of Edge by Ascential, the world’s leading e-commerce provider, predicts that the Chinese online giants – Alibaba, JD.com and Pinduoduo – and Amazon will account for 65 per cent of global health and beauty e-commerce sales by 2025. The company’s analysts estimate that Alibaba will grab the lion’s share of the online health and beauty market with sales of US$43 billion, followed by Amazon at US$28 billion. According to Alibaba’s data the global beauty industry is expected to increase by an average 5.2 per cent per year from now to 2023. The e-tailer reports that its transaction volume of beauty products increased 100 per cent year-on-year during the 2020 fiscal year. Alibaba has released its top 10 beauty trends list for 2021 based on its sales over the past year. A real life assessment that pinpoints what its millions of customers are actually buying. 1) Skincare makes up 19 per cent of the overall beauty industry, says Alibaba. Products such as moisturisers, cleansers, serums and exfoliants have achieved new levels of success. The company also predicts continued interest in skincare containing collagen, Vitamin C and CBD ( cannabidiol) 2) Natural beauty products continue to attract new customers. But the e-tailer says that many of its customers still prefer sciencebacked, mainstream brands. Those who seek out natural and organic products are drawn to clean beauty alternatives and are very aware of attempts at “greenwashing”. 3) DIY pampering will stick around for the foreseeable future, even though beauty salons in many countries will re-open. Sales of nail kits, hair removal products, at-home hair colourants and facial kits soared in 2020 and Alibaba predicts they will be popular for a while longer. 4) E-commerce will continue to grow as the Covid-19 pandemic accelerated its appeal for brands. The three major drivers are: retailers and brands accumulate more data and analytics through online sales, opening an online store is more affordable than opening a physical shopfront and advances in technology such as augmented and virtual reality. 5) Alibaba believes that the coronavirus crisis has changed handwashing habits. The e-tailer sees the rise of more moisturising hand sanitisers such as the glycerin-based SKU from Kylie Cosmetics, following a 2520 per cent jump in sales last year.
BUSINESS
Online Retail
6) M ask-wearing will be around for some time, especially in Asian markets, says Alibaba. Maskne products that deal with breakouts and blemishes caused by wearing a mask will increase. 7) Mask-friendly makeup will revitalise the colour cosmetics market from eye products such as eyeshadow, false lashes, brow kits and mascara to liquid lip colours which are less likely to smear than regular lipsticks. 8) Scalp treatments will remain in the spotlight from scalp detoxes through moisturising masks, deep cleansers, serums and caffeine treatments. 9) Inclusivity will continue to be a focus but shift away from foundation shades. Alibaba sees growing recognition that diversity also covers different ethnic skin types from sensitive to oily, dry and combination. 10) Beauty subscription boxes centering on skincare or makeup will also get a second wind says the Chinese online giant. HEALTH AND BEAUTY STOKE ONLINE SALES IN DECEMBER
Australians went on a major spending spree in December. Although retail sales dropped 4.2 percent from November, reports the Australian Bureau of Statistics, retail sales soared 9.4 per cent by contrast to December 2019. E-commerce was also firing on all cylinders, says eStore Logistics. According to the e-commerce fulfilment company, online health and beauty sales increased by 30 per cent in December and books, CDs and DVDs enjoyed an upsurge of 33 per cent. Home improvement and renovation were the standout categories with sales up 96 per cent in December. All of the leading states experienced increases in online shopping. Shoppers in Victoria made 33 per cent more online purchases in December compared with 2019, adds eStore Logistics. NSW consumers made 28 per cent more online purchases, followed by Queenslanders v(+25%) and South Australians (+23%). Australia Post reported its biggest month ever – a 20 per cent increase on its 2019 December deliveries to 52 million parcels. There is no denying that online shopping grew strongly in 2020, and this reached a new level in December as millions of people chose to buy their Christmas gifts online, said Rodney Boys, acting CEO of Australia Post. According to Australia Post, food and liquor, fashion and home and garden product deliveries were up 50 per cent, 37 per cent and 36 per cent, respectively.
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BEAUTY AND HEALTH PROPEL THG TO 51% GROWTH IN Q4
THG (formerly The Hut Group) has rarely been out of the global beauty industry news over the past year because of its rapid expansion, aggressive acquisition policy and record-breaking IPO in London. The UK-based company, which is Europe’s largest online retailer of premium beauty, has hit the headlines again with its latest Q4 results. A very bullish 51 per cent increase over the same period in 2019 to 628.2 million euros (AUD$986.6 million) Full year revenues for 2020 reached 1.8 billion euros (AUD$2.82 billion), with the beauty and health division contributing 843.6 million euros (AUD$1.32 billion) to the overall bottom line. THG has been a clear winner in the massive growth of the global online beauty and health market, which increased 40.4 per cent in 2020 to 124.4 billion euros (AUD$195.3 billion). The e-commerce retailer attracted 3.5 million new customers in the three months to December 31, taking its total of new users to 10.7 million for the year. On the back of these outstanding results, THG has raised its earning guidance for 2021 from 20 to 25 per cent growth to 30 to 35 per cent. In addition to owning a clutch of brands from Nicholas Perricone MD to ESPA and Illamasqua and websites such as Lookfantastic and RY.com.au, Australia’s largest skincare and haircare online store, THG signed agreements with leading brands such as Elemis, PZ Cussons Beauty and Burt’s Bees last June to expand their online presence. Other recent milestones include an agreement with Galderma, the maker of Benzac, to launch its Acnecide DTC website in the UK. Creed, the prestige French fragrance brand has also linked with THG to accelerate its digital presence in Europe and the Middle East. Recently THG acquired Dermstore.com, the leading skincare e-commerce website in the US, from discount retailer Target for US$350 million. BEAUTY SHOPPERS BUY BRANDS THEY HAVE PURCHASED BEFORE
A huge amount of fashion items are returned following online purchasing, but sending back beauty products isn’t so easy. Rightly so, as hygiene and packaging considerations have to be strictly adhered to. In a new survey by Nosto, the world’s leading e-commerce
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personalisation platform, more than 62 per cent of female beauty online shoppers aged 16 to 35 typically purchase brands they have bought before. The study involved 2000 respondents in the UK and the US and also discovered that 44 per cent of beauty shoppers purchased colour cosmetics and skincare online, rather than in-store. The biggest motivators on the path to purchase are customer reviews on brand and retail websites (74%) and free samples (72%). Product recommendations from brands were also a major plus point with 66 per cent of respondents, folllowed by customisation of experiences centred on individual shopper histories – 63 per cent. Not so popular were – virtual try-on tools (45%), recommendations from influencers and celebrities (44%) and one-toone virtual/online beauty consultations (41%). The beauty industry is moving in the right direction as far as consumer wants are concerned – clean ingredient claims hit the spot with 68 per cent of respondents, followed by cruelty-free (65%), sustainable packaging (59%) and inclusivity/diversity (58%). Interestingly, the lowest motivator was vegan at 41 per cent.
HOW AUSSIE ONLINE SHOPPING HABITS ARE CHANGING
With more people spending time window shopping (virtually), as well as spending money online during the pandemic, beauty retailers have an opportunity to make the most of the changing space by adjusting their SEM and digital presence. Data from leading digital agency, Half Dome, along with global research by Wordstream, shows there has been a 49 per cent increase in internet browsing between midnight and 3am. And at the other end of the spectrum, there is 27 per cent less browsing during the traditional commuting times of 5am to 8am. Changes haven’t just been in when people shop online, but also how they are doing it. When it comes to search terms, more people are asking conversational questions – “how to renovate my bathroom”, for example. More than 60 per cent of consumers changed their shopping behaviour due to convenience or value, according to research from McKinsey. Supply chain disruptions and price could also be a reason behind these new habits. While it’s of no surprise there have been changes in the way people browse online, it does give businesses a great opportunity to educate, assist and become a trusted advisor, especially since we’re now seeing brand loyalty playing less of a role in people’s decision to buy. Businesses need to tweak their optimisation strategies to keep up: To leverage these changes brands must make an upgrade to their SEM in order to successfully engage consumers. By upgrading and tweaking optimisation strategies they can be used in a more proactive way to cater more to middle and upper funnel tactics within the marketing funnel. There is also a shift required with in-platform optimisations. In recent years the rise of automation and machine learning from
BOOST LAB JOINS ADORE BEAUTY
Craig Schweighoffer, the Founder of Boost Lab, has built a strong profile in the beauty and lifestyle category. Six years ago, he took over Biophysics Australia, the brand owner of the best-selling cosmeceutical range, Skin Physics, sold online and in Priceline. In May 2018, Rapid Loss, Australia’s leading meal replacement shake and snack brand, was acquired by Biophysics. Schweighoffer was also the co-founder and CEO of Ecoya/ Trilogy for six years from 2006 to 2012. Last September, the Boost Lab brand made its debut, selling through its own dedicated website - www.boostlabco.com. The brand premiered seven, single focus serums, all priced at an affordable $29.95, which cover the lion’s share of major skincare issues. • Vitamin B3 Blemish Rescue Serum • Retinol Night Renewal Serum • AHA Glow Resurfacing Serum • Vitamin C Brightening Serum • 2-D Hyaluronic Hydro Boost Serum • Multi-Peptide Anti-Aging Serum • Bio-Active Eye Reset Serum Tapping into the skincare boom sparked by the Covid-19 crisis and the increased desire of consumers to buy Australian brands, Boost Lab hit two major marketing marks. The company has announced an e-commerce and distribution
partnership with Adore Beauty, one of Australia’s leading beauty e-tailers, to reach a wider audience and allow consumers to self-select for their at-home beauty routines. As part of its giving back program, Boost Lab supports several projects through i=Change, including Protect a Woman (women’s community shelters), Support Mental Health (Beyond Blue) and Restore the Reef (Greening Australia).
BUSINESS
historical data has required rich data and audience signals to deliver efficiencies more effectively than a human could, particularly when it comes to bidding in SEM. So, fortunately most of the hard work here is done by platforms like Google, as their algorithms automatically update and respond to these changes. However, this should trigger brands to revisit the strategies they can control, like their messaging, structure and testing frameworks to ensure it caters to the new consumer mindset. Other things businesses can do to adapt: So what else can businesses do? They must ensure they have the content to address consumer needs, which enables customers to stay up to date with the latest communication. We’ve seen an increase in queries about DIY or contactless delivery. As a result, businesses need to include these in their content, website, and SEM strategy to ensure customers who search these queries are shown relevant messaging rather than generic information. When creating SEM strategies, building brand trust should be a top priority, not dissimilar to other marketing and communication strategies. Within SEM this means updating strategies in-platform, like keyword lists, ads and even bidding and optimisations. You need to direct consumers to relevant content, first and foremost. Update your messaging to keep them informed but not misled, and be adaptive to the technical optimisations required in-platform to cater for the changes we’re experiencing in consumer behaviour. by Rhett Mitchelhill, Search & Affiliates Lead at Half Dome, a Melbourne-based digital agency
AUSTRALIAN ONLINE BEAUTY RETAILER MAKING $4 MILLION PER MONTH
Australian online retailer for premium hair, beauty and skincare products, Oz Hair & Beauty saw turnover double to $4 million per month in 2020, grown organically without external funding. Founded by Sydney brothers, Anthony Nappa (pictured left) in 2012, who was later joined by brother Guy Nappa (pictured right), the online business was built on the family’s heritage in hairdressing salons, with parents Elio and Venessa having owned and operated the Oz Hair flagship location in Sydney’s Queen Victoria Building for the last 30 years. In January 2020, Anthony and Guy launched a men’s grooming store, Above the Collar and expanded the range across both sites by an additional 232 brands and around 12,000 products in total. By September 2020, the two stores were turning over $4 million a month, and are on track to turn over $50 million for FY2021. In September, Oz Hair & Beauty also launched an advanced virtual makeup sampling tool to help customers ‘try’ products from home. The business has seen demand for self-care products soar as bricks-and-mortar retailers and salons around the country shut down or followed tight restrictions. Oz Hair & Beauty experienced a 200% increase in purchases in April 2020, compared with April 2019. Since the shutdowns, Oz Hair & Beauty has grown its skincare division. The platform now carries more than 400 brands across hair, skincare, and beauty. Since April, monthly transaction volumes have averaged 39,500 across Oz Hair & Beauty and Above the Collar, with April the biggest month to date – 47,000 transactions across both sites. Additionally, Oz Hair & Beauty now averages 533,000 unique visitors each month. To continue fulfilling orders quickly under limited capabilities and overcome delays with shipping, Anthony and Guy increased the size of warehouse team and doubled their customer service team. They now have warehouse staff working across two shifts – initially due to social distancing restrictions, but now, to meet the increase in sales. Further, the brothers refined their business processes to enhance picking and packing processes to be more efficient and optimised training policies and procedures. Customer service live chat availability was extended on the websites to address customer queries promptly. There was also a greater focus on personalised marketing automation to deliver a tailored customer experience. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |63
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THE PRICELINE BEAUTY BUYERS
Secret Product Picks Since first opening in 1982 at Highpoint Shopping Centre, Priceline has expanded to more than 470 stores nationally. There are more than seven million members in Priceline’s Sister Club, making it Australia’s largest health and beauty loyalty program. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the ultimate influencers – the Priceline beauty buyers – to find out what could be your next favourite product.
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1. Weleda Calendula Nappy Cream – This product is a life saver for baby’s sensitive skin and a must have in a daily nappy routine to help protect from nappy rash. The product contains organic calendula, chamomile extracts to calm and soothe the skin, sweet almond and sesame oils to moisturise and treat and lanolin and zinc oxide to provide a barrier of protection to the skin. 2. Fig Femme product range – Fig Femme is a range of self-care and feminine hygiene products that’s new and exclusive to Priceline. Founded by Lindy Rama-Ellis (formerly Klim) this range is a three-step ritual to assist women in taking time out of their busy lives to care for themselves. The three steps are Refresh, Revive, and Restore. Refresh is the Fig Femme fragrance-free intimate wash, Revive is the Fig Femme hydrating mist, and Restore is the Fig Femme vulva sheet mask. My personal favourite in the range is the Restore Vulva Mask which is infused with ingredients that reduce irritation, boost hydration and cell turnover and acts an anti-inflammatory and antibiotic exfoliant that reduces instances of ingrown hairs and acne, making it perfect to use after an IPL session to help soothe and hydrate. 3. Love Luna Midi Period briefs – This period Bbrief is super comfy to wear and is designed to absorbs 10-15ml (2-3 regular tampons). It can be worn on its own or as a backup. These affordable, reusable Australian owned period briefs are game changing and come at the right price if you’re looking to try something new. LIZ GREEN: CATEGORY MANAGER - SKINCARE
4. Weleda Skin Food - I couldn’t live without this little green tube! It’s so intensely moisturising and makes your skin feel instantly hydrated. Not only can you use this head to toe to protect dry and rough skin I find it makes a great make-up primer for longer lasting coverage. 5. Clear Skincare Hyaluronic Acid Mask - This is one of my all-time favourite sheet masks and a great way to recreate that spa experience at-home without breaking the bank. It’s doused with highly potent hyaluronic acid so your skin feels instantly hydrated and fabulous afterwards. Any excess serum from the sheet mask rub into your décolletage to leave it feeling supple and rejuvenated. 6. Zitsticka Killa Clarifying Microdart Patch Kit - You’ll never need to panic again when a pesky pimple emerges! These super discreet self-dissolving patches from Zitsticka will manage early-stage pimples with targeted ingredients thanks to its clever microdart technology. SIMONE UNTERLECHNER: CATEGORY MANAGER - BEAUTY ACCESSORIES, PERSONAL GROOMING & SEASONAL
7. Real Techniques Miracle Complexion Sponge – This is my all-time favourite three-in-one foundation sponge which never disappoints. This was one of the first products I tested when I joined the Priceline Beauty Team and it changed the way I applied makeup forever. 8. Revlon Face Defuzzers – A truly amazing product. Not only does it remove facial fuzz leaving your skin feeling soft and smooth, it also assists when applying makeup resulting with a smoother looking finish. 9. Ardell Duralash Starter Kit – I love using individual lashes to create extra volume and I still use these Ardell Duralashes as they are a great way to trial using false lashes and different lengths
whether you’re a novice or expert applicator. They create a subtle natural effect and are great quality and value. JANICE SENN: CATEGORY MANAGER PERSONAL CARE AND NUTRITION
BUYERS LIST
JANET GONZALEZ: CATEGORY MANGER - MOTHER & CHILD, STOMACH & GI
10. Beforeyouspeak High Performance Coffee The OG This is my new favourite morning drink. It wakes me up without feeling jittery because the blend is really clean and natural. It’s a functional coffee that is 100% natural, vegan, single origin Colombian coffee with added health benefits. It’s infused with MCT oil which can help reduce the risk of heart disease, Siberian ginseng which helps with energy and mental performance and turmeric which is an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. I mix it with almond milk however you can use Oat milk or a creamer and either drink it hot or chilled. 11. Beforeyouspeak Collagen Coffee Glow Mocha - I like to alternate Mocha with the OG because ‘Glow’ is a collagen coffee infused with marine collagen MCT, silica, proline, biotin, and camu camu. These superfoods and supplements help promote healthy hair skin and nails as well as other health benefits. I’ve really noticed an improvement to my hair and skin which became quite dull and dry post having a baby. 12. DOSE & CO. Chocolate Protein Collagen Powder - This is my favourite flavour from the Dose & Co range and also my new favourite protein powder. It’s a natural protein blend to boost energy, increase muscle strength and support muscle recovery. There is 10 grams of collagen per serve to support healthy looking hair, skin and nails and a rich 20 grams of protein per serve. The Dose & Co range is a premium high dose collagen range of dairy and non dairy creamers for your morning coffee or protein powders for your post work out smoothie. Collagen continues to gain popularity due to its amazing health and beauty benefits supporting healthy joints, hair, skin and nails. This brand is endorsed by Khloe Kardashian and has also gained an impressive following from influencers and celebrities. EMMA HOGAN: SENIOR CATEGORY MANAGER COLOUR COSMETICS
13. L’Oréal True Match Liquid Foundation – Shade N2 Vanilla - This has been my go-to foundation for years. The creamy formulation provides the perfect amount of coverage for everyday wear. It’s also enhanced with hyaluronic acid to assist with hydration meaning it doesn’t dry out the skin or look flaky and helps to plump out fine lines. 14. Models Prefer Luminous Luxe Highlighter – shade Ethereal - This highlighter is a must have. It has a baked formula so a little goes a long way. The shade is a mix of brown, gold and peach so can be used to create a subtle everyday look or built up for a full on glow. The powder is super finely milled and infused with light reflecting particles which means it produces a lovely grown up glow without glitter. 15. Revolution Forever Flawless Eyeshadow Palette – Decadent - This palette has all the shades you need for everyday as well as for something more ‘decadent’. The mix of matte and shimmer shades in browns, beiges, taupe and peach tones mean there is a shade for every occasion. All shades are extremely wearable unlike other palettes where you tend to use one or two shades and none of the others. I am a lover of shimmer shades so Plush is my personal fave. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |65
IMAGINE, BELIEVE, BUILD Nikita Papas has an international career spanning more than 20 years across photography, publishing, creative directing, public relations, events and beauty. The digital content and communications manager, Active Cosmetics Division, L’Oréal Australia, catches with Michelle Ruzzene and shares how his three key words - imagine, believe, build – have led him to success. Nikita Papas’ first job was as business leader at Myer in luxury menswear, which taught him the priceless skills of inspirational leadership, breakthrough visual merchandising and impeccable customer service. But with an eye for good design, it didn’t take long for to get his big break in fashion and photography at a young age. “In 2005 a publisher spotted one of my
Nikita Papas Digital content and Communications Manager, Active Cosmetics Division, L’Oréal Australia Venezia-themed photographic murals at an exhibition, and this led to a dream role as a co-founder and editorial director for a luxury fashion magazine with offices in both Milan and Melbourne,” he said. “For ten years, I was fortunate to collaborate with some of the most prestigious fashion and beauty brands. My role involved frequent travel between the prêt-à-porter capitals – Paris, Milan, New York and London.” These days, Nikita always begins his mornings with an iced long black coffee and toast. From there, he is straight into work mode, juggling the many tasks for what a day as digital content and communications manager in the Active Cosmetics Division for the Australian subsidiary of the world’s largest beauty company, L’Oréal, requires. “The dynamic L’Oréal wheel never stops spinning – it’s addictive and relentless,” Nikita said.
“Creating balance to propel wellness and productivity is crucial, which is why I spend the first hour of my day prioritising tasks. “The remaining hours tend to be filled with internal meetings, and I devote most of my time to shaping the promotional assets for my brand portfolio – this usually involves extensive copywriting and creative direction. I manage our influencer partnerships and oversee all content creation to ensure it relays our key brand and product messages.” On some days, Nikita will be on-location art directing the division’s ever-increasing filming initiatives. When he’s in the office, he’ll try and make time for lunch at Bar Zini, which he says is “a fab little bistro close to the Pyrmont office that specialises in rustic Mediterranean dishes”. “The minute I get home, I light my oil burner using relaxing essential oils, I cook
After four years, I moved into the Active Cosmetics Division. This new position saw me make a move from L’Oréal’s head office in Melbourne to the Corporate Communications office in Sydney. I’m obsessed with skincare and feel honoured to be working with these world-class brands. 66| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
dinner and, on some nights, head to the nearby pool to unwind... sometimes laps, but mostly paddles… aquatherapy,” he said. L’Oréal Australia is the largest beauty group in Australia more than 30 diverse brands across makeup, hair, fragrance and skincare. Working in the Active Cosmetics Division, Nikita oversees three of the company’s most profitable brands – La Roche-Posay, SkinCeuticals and CeraVe. Nikita says he is fortunate to have found a job he is so passionate about. “I used to think about a career with L’Oréal and was stoked to secure a position within the Professional Products Division, which is haircare,” he said. “After four years, I moved into the Active Cosmetics Division. This new position saw me make a move from L’Oréal’s head office in Melbourne to the Corporate Communications office in Sydney. I’m obsessed with skincare and feel honoured to be working with these world-class brands.” This March Nikita will be celebrating seven years working with L’Oréal Australia. He said he has had many career highlights during this time, particularly working with Redken NYC at Australian Fashion Week. “The brand was the official hair partner and the designer collaborations were incredibly rewarding,” he said. “Backstage, the atmosphere is electric - I have so much admiration for the dedicated creative teams that produce the shows.” Nikita said launching CeraVe into the Australian market, La Roche-Posay’s acclaimed partnership with the Australian Open as the official sun protection partner, and positioning SkinCeuticals as a progressive thought leader within the advanced cosmeceutical arena were also proud moments in his career. When asked about his career ‘failures’, Nikita said they were only opportunities to learn and grow. “I don’t believe that we fail,” he said. “Sometimes, an alternative decision may have yielded a better outcome. We learn from our mistakes, and it’s the wisdom that we gain that leads to ongoing success.” He said forming valuable relationships with both colleagues and stakeholders was imperative to career success. So too, was creating “a harmonious nature” and the ability to “laugh at myself ”.
Cleansing AM and PM is crucial. I use a combination of AHA/BHA, hyaluronic acid and vitamin B serums that I layer with a minimalist, oilregulating moisturiser suited to my combination skin. On a weekly basis, I purify my skin with a decongesting clay-based mask. Sunscreen is also a must.
Nikita credited his sister as the person who had been the most influential to him and was “forever grateful for her guidance and support”. “My sister was a successful model and as a teenager, she introduced me to the glamorous world of fashion and beauty,” he said. “She’s also an English teacher, and she taught me about the power of words and expression - to create engaging narratives and to be persuasive. My Bachelor of Creative Arts included a strategic minor in English, and I then pursued post-graduate studies in Business Marketing – all instrumental for my current role in PR/ Communications.” Nikita said he was inspired by those NOT on Facebook or Instagram. “People who have no regard for social media inspire me,” he said. “So does travel. The ocean I particular is such a sanctuary for me.” Nikita cites technology as having a huge impact on the beauty industry moving forward.
MY JOURNEY
NIKITA’S DAILY SKINCARE ROUTINE:
“I believe that the customisation and personalisation trend will shape the future of beauty brands,” he said. “Technology is evolving at lightning speed, and consumers will benefit from a bespoke approach to address and fulfill their specific beauty needs.” But he also stressed the need for ‘back to basics’ skincare when needed and that “healthy skin is beautiful skin”. “If you are serious about skincare, seek out ‘backed by science’ brands that are recommended by dermatologists or aesthetic doctors,” he said. “Some of the best cleansers and moisturisers are those that offer minimalist, fragrance-free formulations designed to strengthen the skin barrier… they are not necessarily expensive, and they are available in pharmacies. Do not overload your cabinet – stick to the core basics that you have ‘tried and tested’ to improve the health of your skin. Healthy skin is beautiful skin.”
NIKITA’S HERO BEAUTY PRODUCTS: • S kinCeuticals Resveratrol BE which is a potent antioxidant night treatment with a divine velvety, serum-gel texture. • La Roche-Posay Effaclar Mat Moisturiser to hydrate and regulate oil and shine and La Roche-Posay’s ‘made for sensitive’ Anthelios sunscreens as they offer the highest broad spectrum UV protection, and the textures are non-greasy, nonsticky, weightless and invisible. • CeraVe’s Ceramide-infused cleansers.
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BUSINESS
Training for business performance Two factors that impact employee performance are knowledge and professional development. As Benjamin Franklin famously said, ‘An investment in knowledge pays the best interest’. By Dr Jennifer Semple
Accord helps its member companies in the beauty and personal care sector by providing exclusive events and training that build knowledge and contribute to professional development. This helps employees remain confident that they are equipped for their role, which also helps boost employee motivation. With COVID-19 prompting a rapid shift in communications and events, Accord has pivoted all our events and training to online delivery. Whilst this has been a challenge, it has also been hugely rewarding as we have seen the enthusiastic uptake of and participation in these offerings by our Members. Our fortnightly Insight Hour is one of our new initiatives. These events are hugely popular and span a wide range of industry-related topics. For example, ‘The New Red-Lipstick Effect’ presented by GlobalData explored trends in consumer investment in beauty amid the COVID-19 pandemic; and UL’s ‘Clean Beauty’ webinar addressed important aspects of clean beauty to consider in product innovation, compliance and promotion, as well as best practices and available tools. Another of our new initiatives relates to regulatory training. This has long been a key focus for Accord, as it is essential that businesses are educated and equipped for compliance with all requirements relating to―for example―ingredients, product transport, storage, labelling and claims. Training in these areas is an ongoing requirement. Even in just the one regulatory area of dangerous goods transport, each decade sees approximately 20 regulatory updates. Did you know that all employees who pack, mark, label and/or consign dangerous goods must be trained to understand these requirements? Training is key to staying on top of compliance obligations in this and in other regulatory areas. Most recently, Accord has trialled a new format for regulatory training: Regulatory Bites. At just 30 minutes a session, this is truly ‘bite-sized training’ on chemicals and cosmetic ingredient regulation in Australia. It is designed for those new to regulatory roles or as a refresher and is perfectly tailored to busy professionals. Regulatory Bites has proved to be highly popular in its first iteration on key topics for our industry such as ‘Introduction to dangerous goods transport’ and ‘Introduction to WHS regulations (GHS, 68| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
storage and handling)’. To complement these 30-minute sessions, Accord has also pre-recorded videos containing helpful background information such as ‘What is regulatory science’ and ‘Structure of the Australian regulatory system’. Training is provided as a key benefit of Accord membership. So, we are open to providing our Insight Hours and regulatory training on any topic of relevance. A particular member company request may be able to be facilitated via a bespoke session or―if it is of broader interest―via a group session. In 2021, Accord we will build on the success of our online offerings in 2020 and grow our suite of member-exclusive training and webinars. Sessions will cover a range of topics including Australian and New Zealand regulations, product category trends and key market insights. Mindful particularly that there will be challenges as we continue to navigate the new Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS), we will also look for training opportunities specifically in relation to this. So, how is your company investing in knowledge? Accord’s training and many other information services helps take care of this vital aspect of business operations. To learn more about how Accord membership can benefit your business, contact Stephanie Hollands on shollands@accord.asn.au.
ABOUT DR JENNIFER SEMPLE
Dr Jennifer Semple is the Innovation & Education Manager at Accord Australasia Limited
ABOUT ACCORD
Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australianowned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www. accord.asn.au
INFLUENCER
INFLUENCER esprit’s collection of industry friends share their strategies on networking, selling, product knowledge and job-related growth to build your career as a beauty assistant, beauty influencer. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |69
INFLUENCER
Craig Schweighoffer BOOST LAB
Craig Schweighoffer, the founder of Boost Lab, has built a strong profile in the beauty and lifestyle category. Six years ago, he took over Biophysics Australia, the brand owner of the best-selling cosmeceutical range, Skin Physics. Craig was also the co-founder and CEO of Ecoya/Trilogy. Last September, the Boost Lab brand made its debut. He sits down with Nicci Herrera to share is secrets to building a successful brand.
YOU HAVE A HISTORY OF BUILDING AND SELLING BRANDS – TELL US MORE:
“I really enjoy building brands. In particular, I love taking an idea and turning that firstly into a useful product, and then, overtime a brand that is loved. This is all I have done for the past 20 years and it is part of my DNA. Whilst extremely challenging, it is also very rewarding and I don’t think I will stop anytime soon. I am now fully immersed with Boost Lab and supercharging skin routines globally.” WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER THE MOST IMPORTANT CHARACTERISTICS OF A BRAND?
“It starts with the product/service. Having a great product at fair value is really non-negotiable and is the starting point of all great brands. This allows you the opportunity to then build a brand. To succeed over the long-term, however, you need to build loyalty and repeat business by creating an emotional connection with your audience. So, for me, the most important brand characteristics are about understanding your market, offering something unique, adding value in some way and remaining consistent.” WHAT ARE YOUR TOP BRAND VALUES?
“I will answer this from a Boost Lab perspective. Our company was founded on the ‘Boost attitude’, which is about bringing next level expertise, energy, support, and sense of community to boosting results. The Boost brand is built around clean science, great value and 70| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
a ‘do no harm’ ethos. It’s an attitude that shows in how we make our products and how we treat our customers.” HOW HAS YOUR THINKING ABOUT BRAND CHANGED SINCE COVID-19?
“To start with, it was obviously a big shock and there were a lot of ‘What-ifs?’ being played out. As it settled down and we became used to living with the virus, it was then about figuring out how to get on with things and what that looked like. In a way, it forced us to focus even more on our target market, and establish what they wanted from their skincare routines. So, while sales were impacted over the first part of Covid-19, I can say that now we are in a better position than we would have been without Covid-19.” WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR GREATEST SUCCESS?
“Success means different things to different people. For me, from a business perspective, it is about being recognised for your contribution to the brand by a third party, whether that be through awards or being ranged in a leading retail store and so on. Looking back, having a brand I worked on being stocked in Harrods in London or Bloomingdale’s in New York are certainly career highlights.” WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST VALUABLE LEARNING IN YOUR CAREER?
“Quite a simple mantra really, if you want different, then do different. Another way of putting it is that the first
INFLUENCER
sign of insanity is to keep doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result.”
Aussie made
...if you want different, then do different.
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THE NEXT GENERATION OF BRAND CREATORS?
“The best brands are ones that are not easily replaced. By that, I mean all brands need to continually ask themselves: Do you have a difference that matters? If your brand vanished, would it leave a vacuum or would it be easily replaced? So, go and create a brand that would leave a huge vacuum.”
WHAT DO YOU DO FOR WORK/LIFE BALANCE?
“Work/life balance is a tough one, but something you really need to work at. At the business start-up stage, it is all hands on deck, and you really need to focus and give it 100 per cent. To facilitate this, for me that means ticking the exercise box early in the day, so work doesn’t get in the way. A quick run or gym session clears my head and sets me up for the day. It then allows some family time after work. As the business grows and you build a team, you can look to improve the balance. However, the work side never really leaves you. But I guess if you love what you do, then work/life balance doesn’t really matter. It’s more about mind and body health, rather than work/life balance.” www.boostlabco.com
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INFLUENCER
M I C H A E L’ S T O P T I P S O N
Back to Basics Beauty Why there’s a return to basics for the world of beauty in 2021. By Michael Brown TRENDS FOR 2021? BACK TO BASICS!
How many times can we start a year hearing, ‘New Year, New Me’? It’s really getting old and with the year we’ve just had, the year that was 2020, it just goes to show you never really know what’s around the corner. So, be the ‘new you’ always and never forget life’s little challenges (ahem, Covid-19) as these 72| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
difficult times can make us stronger by forcing us to re-evaluate what’s really important. Take the world of beauty, for example. Yes, Covid-19 wasn’t ideal or easy for many industries, especially beauty, but it also showed us that people still wanted to look and feel good, even if they had nowhere to go. This was especially true for skin.
INFLUENCER
So much in makeup and skincare can be used in more ways than recommended or advertised... Our skin is always on display, and finally so many of us (myself included), had more time on their hands to take care of the skin they show off daily. For me, it was a chance to try new products, masks being the number one item, and even new skin gadgets. Perhaps if 2020 didn’t happen the way it did, I wouldn’t have had this love of beauty returning to the ‘back to basics’ direction. TRENDS:
Usually at this time of year, beauty writers and makeup artists alike are gearing up for major Hollywood red carpet moments. It’s the time when Fashion Weeks around the world take place, all showcasing top beauty looks from celebrity makeup artists around the globe. Now, while some events may still be going ahead on Zoom or virtually, it is still a very different story to this time last year, when everything was pretty much full steam ahead in these worlds. I often get asked during interviews: “What are the new trends this season?” Usually, there are at least five, if not 10, top ones you find, especially from catwalk shows. But all of last year I was saying skin, skin, skin… There’s no doubt 2020, was the year of self-care. Hair and sheet masks, candles, diffusers anything that made you feel good, relaxed, de-stressed and slightly pampered sold well. I don’t think this trend is going to go away anytime soon, so make sure you take the time to incorporate this into your beauty work life. I am a big fan of making up my own trends and this is the perfect time, as we don’t have these major trend reports coming through from overseas that we are used to. Plus, I am very directed in my work as a Makeup Artist/Beauty Expert with new products that brands release. They inspire me to try every possible way to use the product in application, texture mixing, how it wears and also what finish or finishes I can create. Be your own trend report as your customers love new and versatile products! So much in makeup and skincare can be used in more ways than recommended
or advertised, and in a more skin-focused beauty world, mixing textures and creating glowy skin is one big trend that came out of 2020. Make sure you use that creative artistry mind to your advantage in a retail environment. THINGS TO REMEMBER:
Life for so many has taken a step back, a little slower paced perhaps, so always have the ‘Back to Basics’ vibe ready to go. We are still living with a major global pandemic, so while we might be doing well and things are slowly opening up and getting back to normal in Australia, major glam moments might not be top of mind for many of your customers for a while yet. Instagram beauty looks are not always real life, so talk to your customer in ways they understand and can relate to. Think back to the office looks, Zoom beauty (how to define your features), date night, summer skin glow or how to shine control your face while still looking fresh – so many day to day things that real women are going through, as not so many are going to major glam events, so always keep it real. I recently did a beauty segment on Channel 9’s Today Extra, talking beauty expiration dates, something that so many on the cosmetic floor never discuss during a consultation or sale. Little open jar symbols on the back of products are there to help the consumer know the lifespan of what they are purchasing. It can also assist in sales on the shop floor if the customer is
aware that after six months or so, most active ingredients will lose their potency, or that their foundation should be replaced once opened every 12 months. More importantly, does the customer know if their is SPF still working correctly? So, there may not be an many major trends coming through, and glam may be on a slight backseat, but there is so much to educate consumers on when it comes to ‘back to basics’ style beauty. Make sure you remind your customers that now, and pretty much always, the essential part of any beauty routine starts with great skin.
By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |73
Top 10 tips
to looking professional and polished on camera By @icybutterfly
74| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
1. LIGHTING
Check the lighting around you. The best lighting would be in front of the window. Otherwise, you should consider having a ring light. Depending on how often you are in front of a camera, you can have a small ring light, which is about the size of your palm. A lot of them are rechargeable, but I have found the batteries usually run out pretty quickly. Influencers use professional ring lights, but I would suggest the ones that are colour adjustable.
5. GO EASY WITH HIGHLIGHT, GO SMART WITH CONTOUR
Do you have a favourite side of your face? You should place your camera facing that side. A bad angle can also create a double chin or show more of your necklines. Always double check your camera position to make sure the best version of you is on show.
Unless you are a movie star or you are demonstrating a highlighter, you would not want a lot of shine on the cheekbones. In Zoom meetings, I switch to a matte highlighting powder instead of a high-shine powder. I save the high shine for makeup tutorials, speaking to my bestie, or when I want people to comment on my recent highlighter purchases! Instead, use contour to add dimension to your face on camera. The ‘3’ technique is the golden rule and I suggest you also start with your hairline. When you have finished drawing the ‘3’, remember to touch up to the middle of your ear. Warm tones are more video friendly because they add depth. Cool tones may make you look ashy and tired, so avoid using them.
3. GIVE FREEDOM TO MOVEMENT
6. LESS SPARKLES
During virtual meetings, you may need to take notes and speak. Don’t forget others can see your posture. If you are making a video, ensure your camera is not placed in an awkward position – make sure that you can move freely in the frame. Most importantly, don’t hurt yourself while dancing or recording. And don’t break your camera or your phone while doing that, or drop the product – ouch.
Sparkles are not always camera-friendly. In videos, they may appear as weird spots. Be very careful about where to use sparkles. Adding shine to highlight is fine, but if there are sparkles that accidentally ‘fly’ onto your forehead, cheeks, nose or chin, make sure you remove them.
2. FIND YOUR BEST SIDE
4. USE CONCEALER
I know this sounds a bit lazy. But when you are in front of the camera, you only need to worry about those parts of you that will appear in the videos. Still, there are a few must-dos. Blemishes, dark circles and bruises should be covered. You don’t want your audience to keep looking at them, and their attention being diverted. Blemishes and dark circles show the condition of your health - whether you are having sufficient sleep or eating healthily. You don’t want that to become an unwanted topic! Redness is a tough one, and unfortunately also a common problem. Try colour correctors. Don’t over use powders to mattify your look either, get a fluffy brush to dust off the excess, so you look radiant and energetic in front of the camera.
INFLUENCER
Have you joined TikTok or tried the new Instagram video features? Are you busy virtually meeting your clients, family members and friends? Then it’s important you look your best on camera. Not sure how? Don’t worry, I have compiled my Top 10 tips for nailing looking professional and polished on video. 9. BOLD OR NUDE LIP?
If you are dancing, showing off your new outfits or sharing fashion styling tips, you don’t want too much attention on your lips, right? So, go with lip glosses or nude colours. If you are only showing your upper body, singing, talking, or educating, put on a bold colour so that people will focus on your face - especially your lips. It will help you get your point across and for the listeners to really pay attention to what you are saying. Make sure your blusher matches the tone of your lipstick, but is natural enough so that it doesn’t divert attention away from your lips. 10. BE AUTHENTIC
Always remember what message you want to send through the camera. Looking prettier is beneficial if you are recording a video or having a virtual meeting, but the most important thing is to be authentic and truthful. People will ultimately focus on is what you do or say, not what you look like. Good luck.
7. EYEBROWS, PLEASE!
We all know that loss of eyebrows is a sign of ageing. If you want to shave a few years off your age in a video, spend some time on your eyebrows. I have a fringe, so I can ‘cheat’ while I am indoors, but most of time I remember to emphasise my eyebrows. 8. STRONG LASH LINE
Not everyone needs smoky eyes in Tik Tok videos. However, some basic eye makeup is a must. I have not met a single person who doesn’t want their eyes to look bigger. Even if I was doing skincare tutorials, I would try to keep eyeliner and mascara on so I look presentable. If you are not so good at applying eyeliner, at least consider a good mascara that will add length or volume to the lashes. Don’t forget your bottom lashes. Lash extensions may be worth the investment to save you time. @icybutterfly in her recent ModelCo unboxing video
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BRAND NEWS
Sisley rolls out Phyto-Blanc routine Sisley has introduced three new products to complement its PhytoBlanc Serum - Le Concentré . The new products join Le Concentré to create the perfect routine, designed to illuminate and even out the complexion while protecting and enhancing the skin’s radiance. The first step in the Phyto-Blanc routine, La Mousse, gently cleanses, eliminates pollution, and purifies the skin. Next is La Lotion, which provides the skin with a first wave of moisturising and micro-exfoliating key ingredients to intensely smooth, brighten, and hydrate. Le Soin, a patented, beautifying anti-dark spot daily moisturiser incorporates a combination of carefully selected key ingredients to rebalance the colour harmony of the skin and restore its freshness. La Mousse, La Lotion and Le Soin join Le Concentré to create a complete beauty ritual for the new Phyto-Blanc range. www.sisley-paris.com/en-AU
Inika Organic’s new Lip & Cheek Cream shades Inika Organic has launched new shades of the gorgeous Lip & Cheek Cream. The multi-use product goes on lips, lids, and cheeks and now comes in three rosy shades - Dust, Petals, and Morning - for the flushed, healthy glow. Achieve a natural pop of buildable colour with pure mineral pigments for use on lips, cheeks and eyes with the nutrient enriched formula. Sweet almond oil and vitamin E hydrate and protect, creating softness and bounce while the silky-soft cream seamlessly blends into the skin. This highly pigmented, longwearing formula creates a natural, sheer finish and is housed in sustainable recyclable glass packaging. www.inikaorganic.com
Wrinkles Schminkles rebrands Wrinkles Schminkles has undergone a full rebrand for their 16th birthday. The total rebrand includes all new packaging and a new colour palette, new clear pouch packaging for the core Silicone Patch line, which allows the customer to experience the product and owning the 100 per cent medical grade silicone category with premium, Made in USA by an FDA facility, silicone patches. New products launched as part of the rebrand include the InfuseFAST Eye Smoothing & Depuffing Masks and the introduction of single unit Silicone Patches. The single patches were developed in response to retailer partner feedback and will offer a lower price point for customers to trial the product. Their new partnership with Agencie Plus will offer enhanced, on-the-ground rep service to best support nationwide stockists. www.wrinklesschminkles.com.au
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innisfree launches Black Tea Youth collection innisfree has launched its new Black Tea Youth Enhancing collection, an antiageing, antioxidant rich range to help reset the look of tired-looking skin after a long day. Formulated with Reset Concentrate™, the antioxidant and anti-ageing compound is extracted from 80 per cent fermented black tea that has been infused in mineral water for 12 hours at 80 degrees Celsius, helping to address the look of fatigued and tired-looking skin. The new skincare line is available in four products; Black Tea Youth Enhancing Ampoule, Ampoule Mist, Cream and Eye Serum. www.innisfree.com
360PR representing pureTAN 360PR, founded by Lisa Solomons, is now representing the iconic and pioneering Australian tanning brand, pureTAN®. The brand was recently acquired by Chemcorp International, the owners and distributors of beauty brands including 1000 Hour, Real Techniques, EcoTools and SpaScriptions to name a few. Launched in 2003, pureTAN® was the original salon-profession spray tan in a can. Developed by salon-tanning experts Danielle and Michael Fletcher, the brand was formulated to provide customers with a natural, nourishing tanning product that wouldn’t dry out the skin or leave a lingering fake-tan smell. Today, pureTAN® remains true to its original ethos. www.puretan.com.au
Avène extend acne-fighting range Avène have launched two new products, extending on their acne-fighting range for blemish control. Revolutionising skincare for oily, acne-prone skin Avène’s new twostep regime heroes the newly formulated Cleanance Cleansing Gel and innovative Cleanance Comedomed. Both products contain the active ingredient Comedoclastin, a plant-based active made from milk thistle oil, which helps restore balance to the skin, reducing existing blemishes and helping prevent future breakouts, for long-lasting efficacy. The two-step regime begins with Cleanance Cleaning Gel, a soap-free formula which deeply cleanses the skin removing impurities and reducing sebum, without drying out the skin. Followed by the Cleanance Comedomed, a moisturising anti-blemish concentrate with a fast-acting formula and long-lasting clinical benefits. www.avene.com.au
BRAND NEWS
Sustainable self-tanning innovation from Bondi Sands Bondi Sands have launched a world-first sustainable self-tanning range called Pure. As sustainability becomes a major global focus, Bondi Sands are working to reduce waste to minimise the impact of their products on the environment. Taking a huge step in the right direction they have launched Pure, made with ethically sourced, 100% recyclable packaging made with recycled materials. With six new products in the range, everything is sustainably made with the planet in mind while combining skin-loving benefits within a self-tanning routine. Pure products contain hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and vitamin E to enhance glow while nourishing the skin. The Pure product range includes: Self-Tan Foaming Water in Light/Medium, Self-Tan Foaming Water in Dark, Gradual Tanning Lotion, SelfTanning Drops, Self-Tanning Sleep Mask and Self-Tanning Face Mist. www.bondisands.com.au
Ethique Concentrates a planet first in personal care Ethique Concentrates is a range of clever solid bars of concentrated active ingredients packaged in compostable packaging, sans the plastic. Consumers simply add water and store them in bottles they already have, ensuring they have their favourite liquid products such as shampoo and conditioner, but without any of the single-use plastic waste normally associated with it. Packaged in a biodegradable box, the Concentres range offers choice for people who aren’t into beauty bars. The Ethique Concentrates range includes a world-first (patent pending) personal care range of salon-quality shampoo, conditioner, bodywash, handwash, and body lotion. The Concentrates range was recently named as one of Time’s Inventions of the Year for 2020. www.ethiqueworld.com
COLAB Dry Shampoo finally launches in Australia COLAB Dry Shampoo has launched in Australia. Born in London in 2014, the brand has since sold more than 10 million cans worldwide. The award-winning formula leaves no chalky dust, no white residue, no build-up. The unique formula uses a very fine starch, resulting in a weightless spray that absorbs maximum oil and feels barely there. The remarkable, lightweight and invisible formula absorbs oil in a flash, instantly refreshes roots and leaves your hair feeling clean and revitalised. COLAB is vegan friendly and 100% cruelty free. The range of incredible fragrances include Original, Unicorn, Paradise, Tropical, Extreme Volume and Boho Rose. Available exclusively at Chemist Warehouse. www.colab-hair.com
Jo Malone London introduces Blossoms collection Jo Malone London has launched a new Blossoms collection, available in a fresh bottle design. Two fragrances celebrate the beauty of the hibiscus flower: Yellow Hibiscus, a beaming and juicy light floral and Red Hibiscus, a vivid solar floral and the fragrance house’s first Blossom Cologne Intense. These two new fragrances are joined by returning Frangipani Flower, a radiant floral and Nashi Blossom, a playful light floral. Jo Malone London’s fruity signature fragrance of Nectarine Blossom & Honey is introduced in a limited-edition Body Mist, created with a blend of caring ingredients and natural origin glycerine to condition and scent the skin. A new Solid Scent Duo of Nectarine Blossom & Honey and Orange Blossom makes for a refreshing combination. The smooth formula is easily applied to the skin with the dab of a fingertip; layered together these two create a lush floral fragrance. www.jomalone.com.au ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |77
UPSELLING AND CROSS SELLING esprit asked the BAs and CMs: “What are your top tips and tricks for upselling and cross-selling?”
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Not attempting to upsell or cross sell when a customer is in a buying mood can be a wasted opportunity. We find out how the beauty advisors and counter managers maximise the amount of products a customer purchases.
“When it comes to cross-selling, my service is more focused on their entire experience with me, so my tip is to try to get them in the makeup/beauty chair. Once they feel they have found their favourite shade in a product, the customer’s mood is lifted, and that’s when my favourite moment of being able to cross-sell comes in. It’s like a door opens for me to introduce other products and invite customers to try them and to complement their purchase. Even if they don’t buy other items, they can walk away satisfied that they have had a great shopping experience, and they might come back for the cross-sold item next time.”
value in taking the larger size. It’s not only more luxurious, but often it’s double the volume of fragrance, or product, for only a small amount extra. I keep the atmosphere relaxed and never let the customer feel pressured into a decision. If they aren’t ready to buy another product, I’ll offer them samples before they leave. This often convinces them to return later.”
Jasmine Hayes Estee Lauder Store: David Jones City: Elizabeth Street, Sydney Cathy Xu Coty Luxury Store: Myer City: Garden City, Perth “People often don’t know what they want until you show it to them. This is something Steve Jobs said and I’ve found it’s true for most of my customers. I always start with checking what a customer currently likes and is looking to buy then I aim to exceed those expectations. Product knowledge and personal experience is helpful here. It builds trust with the customer because they know a professional is helping them make a confident purchase. Once I’ve built trust, it’s a good time for upselling. I will always suggest to the customer there is better
“Confidence is key to have when upselling and cross-selling. Be confident to show your customer a variety of products that you know will work for her, even if they’re just coming in for a face cream. Show them linking products such a serum and eye cream. Help them to have a more wellrounded experience and routine for their needs, that will enable them to achieve their desired outcome. Share relevant knowledge and benefits to your customer. Make sure they know why a product is beneficial and will work for them! With more and more customers researching online prior to visiting in store, it’s still important we give our own personal touch to the shopping experience and share our knowledge and experience. If customers have said they’ve
BEAUTY & THE BEST
Jessica Zoe Gucci Beauty (Coty) Store: David Jones City: Elizabeth Street, Sydney
People often don’t know what they want until you show it to them. This is something Steve Jobs said and I’ve found it’s true for most of my customers.
seen or heard about product online, I always ask where they’ve seen it online and what they know about the product. This way I can tell them any further information they may not have seen and any top tips that I have!”
Lauren Lisle Napoleon Perdis Store: Chermside City: Brisbane “Welcome every customer into a safe and friendly environment as you would a guest into your own home. Be sure to introduce yourself. Ask quality, open-ended questions then really listen to understand what it is the customer needs. Remember that features tell, benefits sell. Educate your customers on all the great features of your product and show them how these product features will benefit them. Personalise every customer interaction. This, together with the points mentioned above, will help to build relationships with customers – this is the most integral part to growing your clientele. Make sure you follow up! Service extends beyond the point of sale. This is essential to be able to manage your customers’ experience, leaving them with a positive outcome. It’s also a great opportunity to invite the customer back into your store to showcase all that you have on offer, or maybe there was a product the customer liked but didn’t purchase and might next time. My favourite quote I’d like to share is by Siva Devaki: ‘Sales is not about selling anymore, but about building trust and educating.’
Ask quality, openended questions then really listen to understand what it is the customer needs.
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BEAUTY & THE BEST Jeannie Lim La Prairie Store: David Jones City: Chadstone, Melbourne “At La Prairie, every client receives ‘a luxury experience’ and the most important tip is to invite them to sit down. It is important to get to know our clients and build a relationship to understand them better. My tip would be to ensure you always ask about lifestyle, skincare concerns and how they care for their skin. From this information, we can confirm which skincare collection is best for them and provide a full ritual so they will receive the ultimate results. The winning trick is to offer beauty services either at counter through our Art of Perfection Services or a facial treatment in our exclusive personalised beauty suite. Once the client experiences the product on their skin, they instantly fall in love and see and feel their skin transforming. From here we can easily upsell to a complete ritual featuring the must-haves. My team and I always follow up our clients to continue the relationship and invite them in to learn more about our innovations and launches. We truly love our clients and value them, as when we close a sale it is not just about today but the future too!”
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Julie Foster Estée Lauder Store: TerryWhite Chemmart City: Coffs Harbour, NSW “Upselling is mostly in the attitude - be knowledgeable about the products you are selling and not pushy or disingenuous. Expressing enthusiasm for the brands you are presenting and a genuine belief in their benefits goes a long way to helping build trust and confidence in what you are selling. Demonstration is key - sit your customer down and try the products on for them while simultaneously explaining the benefits. I find once the customer sees how good the products look on their skin, they are more likely to buy them. Consider grouping your products into three so that when a customer asks for a certain product, they will immediately see two complimentary products - a day and night cream can be presented with a serum or a foundation with a primer and powder. The more products you can show, the more products they are likely to purchase. For your existing customers check their client card as a reminder of the products they are currently using. Not only does this demonstrate an interest in their beauty regiment but it also presents an opportunity to identify new product lines that they may be of interest to them. Read their minds!”
Kathy Chen Sisley Store: David Jones City: Elizabeth Street, Sydney “Upselling and cross selling are mutually beneficial when done properly. This results in maximum value for customers and an increase in sales revenue. Through professional consultation and a caring approach, you can explore your customer’s needs. The purpose of upselling or cross selling is not to push more products but to encourage customers to uncover their real needs. Understand your products and the beauty industry. Always give customers constructive suggestions and provide information on the latest updates. Customers will trust you and consider your advice. After you establish your customer’s needs always give them compelling choices when comparing higher value versus medium to lower value price range. When you are able to work out their initial budget, this is the point where you can establish if additional purchases could be made to meet their extra needs. For the budget-focused customer we follow their pace. These customers always purchase more products when there is a sales campaign or gift with purchase campaign. These campaigns show customers how much they can save and the benefit to purchase more at that time.”
INFLUENCER
Made for
Makeup
Max May, founder of MaxMade.com.au, is one of Australia’s leading hair and makeup artists whose clients include a long list of local and international celebrities. Nude by Nature’s Make-up Ambassador shares exclusively with esprit his top tips and tricks when it comes to using Australia’s No. 1 mineral makeup brand and why it’s the quintessential Australian girl palette.
TOP TIPS AND TRICKS:
My first tip is to find a foundation that suits your skin and your skin type. Finding a foundation that enhances your skin for its natural beauty is the first and foremost important step when it comes to make-up. My second tip is to concentrate on the classic angles of your face being the brows, the lashes and the lips and focusing on enhancing them to their best potential. These areas are the core or ‘back-bone’ to our faces and will show off your face in its best light always, no matter the time, season or occasion. WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A FOUNDATION:
Find a foundation and or powder that has the desired finish you are after, whether it
be a matte, dewy or radiant finish and then the coverage, be it a light, medium or full coverage. The colour is the third and final choice. Don’t be afraid to try a few shades or even mix them where needed to get the best out of your skin tone! When it comes to a powder choose one that not only sets but has the ability brighten or colour correct the skin like Nude by Nature’s new Translucent Loose Finishing Powders. MAX’S TOP NUDE BY NATURE PRODUCTS:
My top product would be the Natural Illusion Eyeshadow Trio in Rose, it suits every skin tone and enhances every eye colour. It is such a transeasonal colour palette too, which I love, and this is so
important when choosing to add colour to your palette. I’m obsessed with the New Translucent Loose Finishing Powders. The translucent, natural shade is an awesome all over setting powder suited for all skin tones. There is also a Soft Rose (pink) and Banana (yellow) shade which not only will set your makeup but can be used to brighten and colour correct skin! Plus, there is a Pearl shade to add a touch of radiance. They’re super light on the skin and are going to be the hottest new products of the season. I also absolutely love the Highlight Palette, there is so much versatility in the three colours. They really do come together to make up the ultimate trio highlighter. They make up a binder, highlighter and blush. Another hero of my kit is the Natural Mineral Cover – this foundation is suitable for all skin types, I love that I can control the coverage, building it where I need the extra coverage and blending it out seamlessly in the areas I don’t require as much coverage. It also has one of the most unique powder formulas I have come across in the sense it has a RADIANT finish. BENEFITS OF NUDE BY NATURE:
What I love most about Nude by Nature is the fact that it is make-up that is good for your skin. It’s formulated with 100% natural ingredients, no parabens, no silicones, no nasties. I’m also a huge advocate for supporting Australian made and PETA approved brands, products that aren’t tested on animals. That said, I find Nude by Nature is a natural makeup brand that responds like no other make-up does. I feel like our styles and colour tastes are very similar. It’s the quintessential Australian girl palette. ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021 |81
INFLUENCER
Have you met... BILLIE JEAN READ By Michelle Ruzzene
Billie Jean Read started off sweeping the salon floor. Today, she is brand educator for MCM Beauty, which represents Christophe Robin, Les Huilettes and Beauty Dept, as well as the marketing guru for Que Colour and Que Academy. TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER PATH TO DATE?
My first job while still in school was as the ‘Saturday girl’ sweeping hair, making coffees and learning the hair salon ropes. I absolutely loved watching the women transform in the salon chairs. While I wasn’t sure where I was would end up once school finished, by the time it did my natural passion for beauty and hair led to my position at Que Colour in Darlinghurst under the incredible guidance of Monique McMahon. Whilst assisting at Que, Monique introduced me to the world of Christophe Robin (the luxury haircare brand created by the famous French colourist), which at the time was still fairly new to Australia. Monique took her time to really educate me on the brand and I saw first hand the difference that a refined, luxury product can make to our hair. As the salon’s social media presence grew it was a natural progression to move into our office to look after our social platforms and become a brand educator. WHAT ARE YOUR CURRENT ROLE AND RESPONSIBILITIES?
As brand educator I visit our retail stockists Australia-wide to educate floor staff on the incredible brands that we represent. This role also involves visiting each store regularly to VM shelving, check stock levels and gain knowledge about the customers in each location and what they’re reaching for. When we have new products launching into the line, I work to create custom educational content to share with our stockists and public via our social media channels. Knowledge is so important for the consumer and it’s great to share this knowledge to empower them. BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOU HAVE RECEIVED?
There’s a big difference between being nice and being kind. I’ve found that in this industry being genuinely kind to those you interact with goes a long way, and will hold you in good stead for the rest of your career and personal life. ADVICE FOR THOSE STARTING OUT IN THE BEAUTY/ HAIR INDUSTRY?
Loyalty and hard work never go unnoticed. It seems an obvious one, but loyalty to your brand and employer is incredibly important. WHO IS YOUR HAIR ICON?
Right now it’s Clara Berry. Her hair is insane. Chic, Parisian, healthy and glossy hair at its absolute best. 82| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA AUTUMN 2021
WHAT IS YOUR GO-TO BEAUTY/HAIR LOOK FOR AUTUMN?
In autumn, as you’re spending less time in the sun and maybe feeling a little post-summer sadness, I always like to amp it up with slightly heavier makeup. Winged eyeliner, bronzed eyeshadow and a good liquid highlighter always do the trick. I also find during summer you tend to wear your hair natural a lot more, so in autumn I rediscover my love for a sleek blowdry. Anything 60’s vibes is my go-to. WHAT PRODUCT COULDN’T YOU LIVE WITHOUT?
This is so hard. Can I have two? Christophe Robin Cleansing Mask with Lemon takes equal place with the Christophe Robin Regenerating Balm with Prickly Pear Seed Oil. WHAT’S THE BIGGEST BEAUTY/HAIR FAUX PAS YOU SEE PEOPLE MAKE?
Covid-19 has bred so many trends I wish could disappear. I actually witnessed someone foiling their hair using a fork to apply bleach! I would have to say if you can avoid it, please don’t try and dye your own hair at home. You only have to watch one of Brad Mondo’s videos to see what can happen when you leave bleach on too long. It’s also really hard for hairdressers to lift out box dye if you decide to one day go lighter. YOUR ONE PIECE OF BEAUTY/HAIR ADVICE?
Keep your hair and beauty routine down to whatever makes you feel comfortable and confident. www.instagram.com/billiejeanreed www.instagram.com/mcm_beauty_ www.instagram.com/quecolour www.instagram.com/queacademy
CHANGE UP HOW YOU DO BEAUTY.
EcoTools Interchangeables collection is another clean beauty revolution. A simple, space-saving brush system that also minimises waste. Add your favourite brush heads to the two interchangeable handles and create any look you like.
MORE BEAUTY, LESS WASTE
ecotools.com.au A Chemcorp International Brand
SUPERFOOD FOR DRY SKIN.
Loved by celebrities and makeup artists around the world, Skin Food intensively nourishes, restores and protects dry and very dry skin since 1921. Certified natural and packed with powerful plant botanicals including organic chamomile, calendula, rosemary and wild pansy, the Skin Food range helps regenerate the skin’s protective barrier and strengthens its lipid layer, for soft, smooth skin from head-to-toe. Since 1921, Weleda has been connecting people with nature. WELEDA. YOU ARE NATURE.
No Animal Testing
weleda.com.au