wijnmagazine

cellier rt

winter 2010-2011

s

d

i

spi

an

s

in

in

o

A PASSION f r f e w e

E

GR

F

TE

on

D

AC

D

IN AN SOCIAL M IA BSI S

E

W

T

in

on

S A SO

Was

E

Or g AN h gt

ED

CO NAC

OL N

TE

G

IN

AY A EW

HEF

ED

S,

s

E cip

Gilles Nicault, Long Shadows winemaker in Washington State.

RER

F

W

N S UC ION

5 IN S, 5 C 5 re e

W

THER

E

E

SOU

WH

W

SPIN

T

WE

A

NEW ARRIVALS: 37 WINES in STORES OVEMBER 4

editor’s note

Wine Takes a Holiday I

t started innocuously enough. We were going camping by the ocean for a long weekend, our gear was piled beside the car and, frankly, we weren’t sure how we were going to fit it all into the trunk.

The straw that broke the camel’s back was when I brought out a case of wine and another case holding my six tasting glasses.

I have to say, I felt a little embarrassed.

My wife pondered the situation briefly.

“Would it kill you to go without wine for a few days?” she asked.

I was surprised to hear myself reply, “Okay, dear, we’ll pass on the wine.” She was probably even more surprised that I had given in so quickly.

Still, it wasn’t all that easy. En route to Massachusetts, two or three big liquor stores seemed to mock me with their come-hither signs. But I stayed strong.

The campground stocked basic necessities like milk, bread, mosquito repellent – and small, stemmed plastic glasses, obviously for wine. And every time I went to the main building, there were more and more empty wine bottles in the recycling bin, deposited there by other campers.

But still I didn’t cheat, and by the end of the trip I’d met the challenge without

a hitch: 120 hours of abstinence!

Big deal, you’re thinking. And you’re right, it means very little in the grand scheme of things. Save for this: It showed me once again that wine does not have the upper hand over me, however near-constant a presence it is in my life. Over the years I’ve uncorked thousands of bottles, and I usually have two or three glasses with dinner (though rarely with lunch), but I still control my consumption.

Beyond possible social, genetic and environmental conditions, I put my civilized relationship with alcohol down to the simple fact that I’m so interested in it. I would even argue that one of the best defences against overindulgence is to taste rather than drink – in other words to pay attention

as you sip, because your aim is to share the experience and your impressions. You might not think it, but this puts the brakes on your consumption.

Once we got back from our trip, I didn’t rush to the cellar, but I didn’t dawdle either.

It was a beautiful evening: The barbecue was heating up, our two sons were having dinner with us, the table was set and it all seemed to call for a bit of a celebration. So I uncorked a Château Pontet-Canet 2006 that was way too young (mea culpa) and a superb Dominus 2006, Christian Moueix’s California red.

At once generous and fine, the Dominus initially overshadowed the Pauillac. But the more the evening progressed, the more the Pontet-Canet evolved in our glasses, gradually opening up and becoming garrulous. “The woodiness is already less intrusive,” someone remarked. “The texture is smoother now, less angular,” somebody else commented. It was as if the wine itself had been invited over for dinner and was our fifth guest.

Crazy, I know, but crazy good. n

Marc Chapleau marc.chapleau@transcontinental.ca

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

3

A COUPE ABOVE

Presenting the all-new 2011 CTS Coupe, a veritable wonder of modern times. Cut like a diamond, only its performance is equal to its elegance. With its 304 HP V6 engine with Direct Injection, its StabiliTrak® electronic stability control system and its aerodynamic design, the CTS Coupe has everything to give you the most electrifying driving experience there is. Starting from $49,100.*

2011 CTS COUPE The Cadillac Dealers’ Association recommends consumers read the following information. *Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price for the 2011 Cadillac CTS Coupe. Freight ($1,550), air conditioning excise tax ($100) included. License, insurance, registration, fees associated with filing at movable property registry/PPSA administration fees, duties and taxes not included. Model shown may include optional equipment available at extra cost. Dealer may sell for less. Dealer order or trade may be required. Limited-time offer, subject to change without notice. See your GM dealer for details.

cellier A PASSION FOR FINE WINES AND SPIRITS

Like many winemakers on the American west coast, Gilles Nicault hails from France.

Nicault is with Long Shadows, a collection of premium wines created in Washington State by several prestige producers from around the world. The fatherand-son team of Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari, for example, makes a Supertuscan-inspired wine called Saggi in Washington.

8

cellier, published four times a year, is produced and published by Médias transcontinental s.e.n.c. (www.medias-transcontinental.com), in association with the following sAQ departments: Marketing; Purchasing and Merchandising; les connaisseurs; communications; Quality Management; sales; and legal services. sAQ headquarters is located at 905 De lorimier Avenue, Montreal, Quebec, h2k 3v9. cellier is a registered trademark of the société des alcools du Québec. Any reproduction of articles, illustrations or photographs is strictly prohibited. Prices for products in the magazine are subject to change without notice. legal Deposit: bibliothèque nationale du Québec, national library of canada. issn 1911-2238. Publications Mail Agreement 40064963. return undeliverable addresses to cellier, 905 De lorimier, Montreal, Que. h2k 3v9.

WINE EVENTS CALENDAR Social Season

27

Wine-tasting events offer ample opportunities to network with fellow enthusiasts.

11

GRAPEVINE

Seen and Heard: Wine consumption

16

AT A GLANCE

Good Days and Bad Days

28

PERSPECTIVE

The New Chattering Classes

How social media websites are transforming the experiences of wine lovers.

24

Wooing the Weekenders

PRIMER

How Low Can They Go?

Wines can be relatively low in alcohol but still high in flavour and quality.

30

Are there really times when wines taste better because of the position of the moon?

20

AT YOUR SERVICE

The SAQ Sélection outlet in Saint-Jovite caters to vacationers as well as local residents.

in India and China, sommelier etiquette, praise for an appealing facet of Quebec culture, and more.

transcontinental boucherville, a division of imprimeries transcontinental s.e.n.c.

All correspondence should be addressed to: 2001 university street, suite 900, Montreal, Quebec, h3A 2A6, cAnADA. telephone: 514-499-0561 fax: 514-499-1844 cellier@transcontinental.ca

WiNTeR 2010-2011

ON THE COVER

Photo: louise savoie.

Publisher – sAQ Johanne Morrisseau Director MArketing coMMunicAtions – sAQ Michel-André St-Jean contributors – sAQ Carole Boulais, Albane Cannaferina, Liette Chaput, Mario Chaput, Dean Di Maulo, François Fortier, Simon Gaudreault-Rouleau, Jacques Leclaire, Diane Lesage, Julie Perreault, Marie-Ève Meunier, Luc Soucy, Geneviève Tremblay, Véronica Ruiz, Alain Smith.

Médias Transcontinental AssociAte Publisher Francine Tremblay eDitoriAl Director Catherine Elie eDitor-in-chief Marc Chapleau Art Director Renée Grégoire contributing eDitors Malcolm Anderson, Catherine Bergeron, Gilles Bois, Raymond Chalifoux, Rémy Charest, André Désiront, Anne L. Desjardins, Patrick Désy, Marc André Gagnon, Étienne Gosselin, Sébastien Lafrance, Josée Larivée, Pascale Navarro, Véronique Rivest, Guy Sabourin, Bill Zacharkiw. coPy eDitors Joan Irving, Donna Jensen trAnslAtor Felicity Munn Art graphic artists Frédérick Bailleul, Christiane Gauthier Photo coordinator Esther Sainte-Croix generAl MAnAger, oPerAtions Lise Paul-Hus DigitAl Pre-Press services Sylvain Renaud (Director) Linda Desjardins (Production coordinator) ADvertising sAles Wine and spirits advertisers Yanik Maheu – sAQ 514-254-6000, ext. 5416 other advertisers – Médias transcontinental Nathalie McDuff (national sales Director) 514-499-0491, ext. 461 Sylvie Lamoureux (Advertising coordinator) 514-499-0491, ext. 327 sAQ custoMer service Montreal area: 514-254-2020 elsewhere in Quebec: 1-866-873-2020 Printing

EXPERTISE Ask Bill

Contributor and sommelier Bill Zacharkiw answers frequently asked wine questions.

32

FACT OR FICTION

Beauty Before Age?

Is a fine wine by definition age-worthy?

CELLAR SECRETS

Red Alert: Where Are the Whites?

No cellar should be without age-worthy white wines.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

5

cellier A PASSION fOr fINe wINeS ANd SPIrItS

35

5 wINeS, 5 CHefS, 5 reCIPeS

CeLLIer New ArrIVALS

80

SAq SIgNAture

A Burgundy State of Mind

82

Attitude Meets Latitude

west Coast Cool

SPIrItS

A whole new Spin

How hip hop revived the cognac industry.

wASHINgtON

Washington wines combine freshness and the kind of elegance rarely found outside Europe.

Details on our many specially selected new releases.

A new collection of wines from Oregon and Washington arrives in Signature stores.

OregON

Known for its Pinots, Oregon is currently in the midst of a major boom.

58

69

Symbiotic Symphonies

Five recipes created by five high-profile chefs to go with five particular wines.

48

winter 2010-2011

86

queBeC terrOIr

Pride, Prejudice and the Palate

90

Three experts speak out on evaluating Quebec wines.

48

BeHINd tHe SCeNeS the Straight Shooter

An interview with Claude Langlois, Le Journal de Montréal’s long-time wine columnist.

96

IN SeASON

An easy epicurean Delight

Tender and succulent, confits are simple to make and easy to pair with a variety of wines.

101

eAtINg Out

A Bistro-Bar that Beckons

The wine list at Montreal’s Les Trois Petits Bouchons is heavy on private imports.

102

tASte teSt

what’s not to Like?

A comparative tasting of 30 Merlots elicits varied opinions from our panel of experts.

108

wINe wAYfArer

Southern Seduction

Beyond the beaches and allinclusive resorts in Argentina’s Mendoza region.

6 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

Photos : louise savoie (Page 48) ; maude chauvin (Page 35).

ON ASSIgNMeNt

35

wine events calendar

Social SeaSon One Of the great benefits Of wine fairs and similar events is that they’re filled with fellOw enthusiasts, letting yOu netwOrk face tO face rather than Online.

OCTOBER n Salon des Vins de Roussillon,

Châteauguay (27), 450-699-2703 n Salon des vins de Trois-Rivières, Trois-Rivières (28), 819-374-5944, www.uqtr.ca n Montréal Passion Vin (29 and 30), www.montrealpassionvin.ca n Salon des Vins et Fromages du Québec, Complexe Desjardins, Montreal (29 to 31), www.salonvinsfromages.ca

NOVEMBER n a Tasting of Wines From italy,

Marché Bonsecours, Montreal (3), trade only, montreal@ice.it n Saveurs & Tentations, Place Bonaventure, Montreal (5 to 7), www.saveursettentations.com n Salon des Vins et Fromages de l’estrie, Sherbrooke (11), 819-822-2402 n Beaujolais nouveau wines in SAQ outlets (18)

n Megavino,

n

n

n

n

n

n

FEBRUARY n HRi Rendez-Vous Show, Montreal (6 to 8),

www.rendezvous-hri.com

n

n le Mondial des cidres de Glace,

Rougemont (11 to 13), www.mondialcidresdeglace.com n Spring 2011 cellier comes out (17)

ELSEWHERE n Mondial de la Bière,

Strasbourg (October 22 to 24), www.festivalmondialbiere.qc.ca

8 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

n

n

Brussels (October 22 to 25), www.megavino.be a Tasting of Wines From italy, Vancouver (October 25); Calgary (October 27); Winnipeg (October 29), Toronto (November 1), trade only World Wine & Food expo, Moncton (October 30 to November 6), www.wineexpo.ca ottawa Wine & Food Show (November 5 to 7), www.playerexpo.com Gourmet Food & Wine expo, Toronto (November 18 to 21), www.foodandwineshow.ca niagara icewine Festival, St. Catharines (January 14 to 30), www.icewinefestival.com Boston Wine expo (January 22 and 23), www.wine-expos.com/wine/boston international Wine & Spirits Trade Fair, Lyon (January 24 and 25), www.vin-events.com Bleu Wine expo, Salon of Independent Provence and Southern Rhône Valley Wine Growers, Marseille (February 7 and 8), www.bleuwinexpo.com new York Wine expo (February 25 to 27), www.wine-expos.com/wine/ny

A MiLESTONE FOR MiCHEL When Michel Phaneuf’s Le Guide du vin first came out, the SAQ was still selling Chianti in fiascos, those squat, strawcovered bottles… It was the autumn of 1981 and Phaneuf surely never imagined that he would come to be known in Quebec as “the pope of wine.”

The 2011 edition of the guide, which hit stores on October 26, is the 30th. All these years on, it remains a benchmark owing to the quality of the writing and the wealth of information in it.

No wonder it has led so many Quebecers to discover wine. Thank you, Mr. Phaneuf!

Go to www.editions-homme.com/concoursguideduvin.aspx to enter the Le Guide du vin a 30 ans contest; you could win a EuroCave wine cabinet from Vin & Passion and, from the SAQ, 30 wines cited in the “Grappes d’Or” section of the guide.

A refined drive, even in unrefined conditions.

Enjoy all the comfort and appointments one expects from Mercedes-Benz, in a vehicle whose 4MATIC™ permanent all-wheel-drive system tempts you off the beaten path at every turn. The ML 350 BlueTEC is built for the great outdoors in another way: with no sacrifice in performance, its turbo-charged, next generation BlueTEC diesel engine meets the world’s toughest emission regulations. While on the road more travelled, the Passive Blind Spot Monitoring1 warns you when a vehicle is in your blind spot for more than 1.5 seconds. Complete control, on and off the road. The 2011 ML-Class.

Visit your Mercedes-Benz dealer or mercedes-benz.ca.

The 2011 ML-Class. © 2010 Mercedes-Benz Canada Inc. 1Standard on the ML 350 4MATIC™, ML 350 BlueTEC and ML 550 4MATIC™. Available as part of the Premium Package on the ML 63 AMG.

grapevine

Seen and heard

By Cellier Staff

What Price GreatneSS? Is it important to drink a legendary wine at least once in your lifetime? That’s the question that had www.fouduvin.ca visitors all atwitter this summer. Most said yes, but a third of the respondents remained unconvinced. “The great wines are tempting, sure, but after drinking them you realize it isn’t all that important,” was one comment.

“The sole ‘duty’ of wine lovers is to enjoy themselves!” was another. “No,” yet another respondent opined, “because what matters is the people you’re drinking the wine with; depending on the company, a $30 or $40 bottle, in my experience, can seem just as good as a famous wine costing $100.”

PHOTOS: MARKA/ALAMY (DELHI); ALAMY (BOTTLE).

the Jama Masjid mosque in delhi. While hindus comprise 80 percent of india’s population, Muslims form a sizeable minority of almost 15 percent.

Indian Summer according to a Nielsen survey, the future looks good for wine consumption in India. Conducted in the cities of Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore, the survey suggested among other things that, in a hot and humid country where a glass of cold white wine would seem just the thing, red wines are in

fact gaining ground. What with the ever-growing craze for wine in China too, eventually we in the West will almost certainly come up short in the game of supply and demand – at least when it comes to the finest and most famous wines, which could soon be outright impossible to obtain.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

11

grapevine Bordeaux remains a strong favourite among Chinese consumers, but the latest stats from France’s ministry of agriculture suggest Languedoc-Roussillon is gaining in popularity.

The Sacrificial Swig A recent article in Toronto Life raised the issue of whether a sommelier should first take a sip of a wine before serving it, as occasionally still occurs in restaurants, in order to ensure the wine is good.

Those in favour argue the practice saves the customer the awkwardness of having to point out that the wine has gone off. Others, including Ontario

Made in China

wine critic Tony Aspler, who’s quoted in the maga-

Chinese consumers are mad about wine. But according to Agence France-

zine, maintain that a good sommelier simply has to

Presse, in China heavy duties are levied on imported wines, thus putting

should be.

When Cellier sussed out New York wine bars last

them out of reach for the average consumer. As a result, 90 percent of the more than 1.2 billion bottles bought there last year were bottled domestically and contained “a creative blend of wine from various Chinese regions [and] foreign countries, as well as grape varieties and

winter, the sommelier at Cru sampled an ounce of

vintages not expressly listed on the label,” the news agency reported.

the Chablis our Marc Chapleau had ordered. Seeing

Lest this make you feel superior, remind yourself that the Chinese have

this guy apparently helping himself to his wine, Chapleau was flabbergasted – but then the sommelier wisely recommended decanting the wine to let it breathe. The moral of the story: Cool your jets; it’s all in the technique.

CLaRiFiCation: Montreal restaurant Joe Beef, mentioned in the Autumn 2010 Cellier, has clarified to us that it charges $3 to $4 for oysters and that it also offers wines by the glass for $12 and under.

12 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

to start somewhere – and that just 30 years ago wine culture and customs here in Quebec still had an almost medieval timbre to them.

Red All Over Nearly 75 percent of the wine sold in Quebec is red – a stat that’s hardly surprising.

Our thirst for reds has run strong ever since 1990, the year the CBS newsmagazine 60 Minutes aired a segment on the so-called French Paradox and how red wine helps clean the arteries. What’s often forgotten is that in the mid-1980s Quebecers were drinking mostly white wines, and that sales of whites continued to either outpace or hold even with sales of reds until 1995, five years after the headline-grabbing broadcast. So we can’t help but wonder: When will tastes swing back again?

PhotoS: SIMoN ShEPhEARD/ALAMY (MAN DRINKING); MIRKo IANNACE/CoRBIS (WINEGLASSES).

sniff the cork to determine if the wine is as it

Moderation is always in good taste.

grapevine French Flattery Another French academic, Jean-robert Pitte, a Sorbonne professor and La revue du Vin de France columnist, recently issued a different sort of opinion. with French citizens still battling legal measures that in essence liken virtually any kind of alcohol to poison, Pitte writes that he is amazed by Quebecers’ much more relaxed attitudes. “wine has become yet another delightful facet of Quebec culture,” he concludes. in our view much of the credit for this should doubtless go to Éduc’alcool, an organization founded in 1989 that’s since served as a model in countries around the world.

SAQ at a Touch

Photo: hEMIS/ALAMY (MERLot GRAPES).

Merlot and More The last Sélections Mondiales des Vins competition in Quebec City featured an interesting presentation by Alain Bertrand, professor emeritus at the Faculté d’Oenologie de Bordeaux. Bertrand touched on several topics, starting with Merlot: If it’s not ripe enough, he said, it can give off green-pepper aromas, just like its relative Cabernet. “Of course these ‘green’ Merlots aren’t exactly flooding the market,” he noted, “as the grape is known to be quite early-ripening.”

On the hydrocarbon notes detectable in some wines (and not just Rieslings), Bertrand said accidental contamination can occur “if, for example, a road near the vineyard was recently repaved; the fumes can settle on the grapes and subsequently be transmitted to the wines.” This echoes a phenomenon often seen in the New World, especially Chile and California, whereby airborne eucalyptus sap settles on the grape berries and imparts an aroma to the wine.

Lastly, Bertrand said he is no fan of Brettanomyces, a yeast occasionally found on grapes that can result in an animal flavour in wine. “Even when it’s not particularly pronounced and improves the wine’s complexity, it’s still a defect!”

Driving to a friend’s for dinner, you decide at the last minute to bring a bottle of wine. But what would go with the herbed salmon on the menu?

Problem solved if you have an iPhone (or iPod Touch). With Apple’s new iOS 4 software features, not only can you research a suitable wine and check its availability, but also the GPS function can pull up a map showing the SAQ store closest to your current location that stocks the wine.

And you can keep a record of your favourite wines in the phone. Simply download the latest version of this nifty application for free from the App Store.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

15

Wine-drinking by the Biodynamic Calendar

Good days and Bad days

16 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

at a glance You’ve had this wine before, Yet this time it smells and tastes different. it’s definitelY not due to bottle variation or the drinker’s mood, so what’s causing it?... saY what? the alignment of the stars? You’re joking!

By Rémy ChaRest

Photomontage: frederick bailleul (facing Page).

Photos: xxx Photos: robert llewellYn/corbis (skY), denis scott/corbis (Zodiac).

M

ost of us have been there: You fetch from the cellar or buy a bottle of the enticing red that was such a hit at your last dinner party.

Getting out the corkscrew, your mouth is already watering in anticipation of the wine’s explosive, palate-pleasing cherry aromas and lovely sunny freshness. You uncork, you pour, you sip…and nothing.

Okay, maybe not nothing, but not much.

The cherry seems to have dropped to the bottom of the bottle and the sun to have ducked behind some clouds. You look at the label to make sure it’s the same wine, the same vintage. It is, but it’s as if the wine is sulking. How can this be? Can a bottle of wine really get up on the wrong side of the bed?

There are several possible explanations.

Serving temperature is an obvious one: A red that’s too cold presents more aggressive tannins and less pronounced aromas; the aromatic compounds are less volatile at lower temperatures. Transportation,

conservation in the bottle, decanting and the state of the glassware can also be factors.

When You’re Smiling It may also be a matter of mood. More studies are finding that there is a neurological link between taste and olfactory perceptions on the one hand and the psychological state of the drinker on the other. If you are depressed or stressed, food – and drink – can be less appetizing. Conversely, if you’re happy or in the throes of love, your nerve endings are smiling too. This explains why that ordinary rosé sipped beside the ocean seems so fabulous.

But there are also environmental considerations. Artisan winemakers often cite atmospheric pressure and the phases of the moon as significant factors. In fact biodynamic producers, and many organic ones too, bottle their wines only when the moon is favourable – ideally during the full-moon phase, in the belief the wines will be clearer and cleaner.

In biodynamic viticulture, it is believed that the moon transmits different kinds of energy to growing vines depending on its position in relation to the zodiac constellations.

Biodynamic agriculture, a method of organic farming that emphasizes homeopathic notions and astrological influences, divides the days of the year into four types: fruit, flower, leaf and root.

German specialist Maria Thun and her son Matthias publish an annual biodynamic calendar for wine drinkers called When Wine Tastes Best. In it the Thuns advise drinking wine mainly on “fruit” and “flower” days. “Leaf” days are favourable for older wines, while “root” days should generally be avoided.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

17

at a glance Good days and Bad days continued >> OppOsing OpiniOns Reactions to this kind of approach are divided. “I believe in it to some extent,” says Olivier Grosjean, creator of Blog d’Olif, one of the best francophone online resources for organic and natural wine.

“I believe the variations in certain parameters have an effect when it comes to drinking biodynamic and natural wines, which undergo very different phases depending, in particular, on atmospheric pressure. I’ve had

experiences when, with the winemaker, I have drunk a wine that only barely expressed itself, whereas the previous time, which happened to be a ‘fruit’ day, the same wine was bursting with fruit.

I cannot,” he adds, “give you a rational explanation for this.”

Hank Beckmeyer, owner of La Clarine Farm, an all-natural winemaking operation perched in California’s Sierra Nevada Foothills, sharply disagrees with this approach. “There are too many other

influences at work and I doubt that it’s as simple as four aligned zodiac signs.”

Guilhaume Gérard, sommelier at the San Francisco natural-wine mecca Terroir, has a more pragmatic attitude.

“If a wine isn’t showing that much I will not uncork other bottles from the same property because I know they’ll all be closed wines too.” Organic calendar or not, he and many other sommeliers figure it’s pointless to argue with a wine that’s having a bad day. n

The FruiT OF experience In England, retail chains like Marks & Spencer and Tesco take the biodynamic tasting calendar seriously. Decanter has reported that both are careful to hold their tastings for the media and industry buyers on “fruit” days, the thinking being that the wines will make the best possible impression.

Should you be inclined to test the validity of the concept yourself, the best dates in November for drinking wine – the fruit days – are purportedly the 8th, 9th, 17th, 18th, 19th, 27th and 28th.

And the worst times to open that bottle you’ve long been coveting would be early in the month (1st, 2nd and 3rd) and on the 10th, 11th, 20th, 21st, 29th and 30th – the root days. But note that these others on constellation positions. Lunar cycles, however, dictate the tempo in all such calendars.

You can also compare the biodynamic calendars at www.biodynamie-services.fr and www.jardinoise.com (both in French only). The 2011 When Wine Tastes Best, meanwhile, was scheduled for publication in late autumn.

18 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

PHOTO: FRANKIE ANGEL/ALAMY.

are approximate dates because some lunar calendars are based on the 12 signs of the zodiac and

“LET THE SOIL SPEAK, EXPRESS THE TERROIR AND ITS VINTAGE” The originality and gustative signature of the maison M. CHAPOUTIER lies in this desire not to cultivate its own "specific taste", a set style. Rather its desire is to continuously work on a difference of taste, that small specific gustative touch, specific to each terroir and to each wine.

Michel Chapoutier

WWW.CHAPOUTIER.COM

social Media websites and wine

The New ChaTTeriNg Classes Blogs, TwiTTer and FaceBook have TransFormed how people communicaTe. everyBody has a voice and every viewpoinT can go gloBal. whaT does This mean For wine BuFFs?

By RĂŠmy ChaRest

20 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

perspective

N

ext to drinking good wines, oenophiles love nothing more than talking about wine. And there you have the appeal of social media websites that facilitate communication and information-sharing among users. Blogs, Facebook, Twitter and cellar-management sites such as CellarTracker have made discussion with fellow enthusiasts, winemakers and experts infinitely easier.

“Wine is extremely well suited to this new interactive information sharing,” notes Sébastien Provencher, co-founder of Praized, a Montreal firm that specializes in social media sites and the development of virtual communities. “There’s a flood of advice on wine and food-wine pairings, and sharing experiences is really easy.”

During the last Bordeaux Futures campaign, influential critics like Jancis Robinson, James Suckling and Robert Parker sent out their initial impressions to the world via Twitter. If you’re wondering how long to hold the Crozes-Hermitage

by Philippe and Vincent Jaboulet that you acquired in a Cellier New Arrivals release, just message the Jaboulets on Facebook and they’ll get back to you personally.

“It’s never been easier for consumers to contact producers; it used to be rare for a producer to know individual customers,” observes Paul Mabray, head of VinTank, a California communications firm that

specializes in wine. “And many sommeliers, Masters of Wine and so forth now share detailed information on Twitter. All this fills a big gap. Do the math: Producers worldwide bring out at least 250,000 wines a year, of which about 30,000 are covered by the professional critics [with much overlap]. That leaves a huge number of wines without professional evaluations.”

These days, no matter how small or obscure the winery, chances are you’ll find tasting notes about its wines online, be it something pithy on Twitter (tweets are limited to 140 characters) or a longwinded entry on some wine nut’s blog.

Everybody can have their say, and countless people are doing just that.

irrepressible Gary Vee, as friends and fans call him, has an online audience of hundreds of thousands of next-generation enthusiasts who crave a relaxed approach to wine. On Twitter, garyvee has 850,000-plus followers.

Wine 2.0 people form a loose community and get together occasionally for online events. Wine Blogging Wednesday is a monthly virtual wine-tasting event in which bloggers try wines consistent with a theme, and post their tasting notes on or before the appointed Wednesday. The site’s French equivalent, Vendredis du Vin,

the DownSiDe

Spawning “CewebritieS” In recent years the number of professional and amateur wine bloggers and tweeters has exploded. They tend to reject the kind of definitive assessment that’s delivered with such authority in The Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, Decanter and other publications, opting instead for a flexible approach focused on discussion and conversation. This has led to the emergence of new Internet stars – or “ceWebrities” – such as Gary Vaynerchuk, whose winetasting podcasts on tv.winelibrary.com have become a phenom in the United States. A frequent television guest, the

However useful, fun and reliable they can be, social media websites can also contain misleading or downright erroneous information. As with anything else, the quality and credibility of the source are key. Then there’s the issue of privacy: Some Twitter users, for example, have no qualms about tweeting a purportedly private dinner-table conversation in real time.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

21

perspective The New ChaTTeriNg Classes continued >> operates the same way but includes wine lovers who don’t have blogs. On Twitter there are more and more virtual tastings during which participants tweet their impressions as they taste the same wines, no matter where in the world they are.

Connecting with your readers is the key to success on social media sites, even for high-profile journalists and experts.

Robinson, for example, tweets timely bits of info, answers pertinent questions from her Twitter followers and gets into backand-forth tweets with other wine experts.

This is why she has five times more

dozen contributors and thousands of regular readers. “Everyone can find something they relate to,” says Provencher.

“With social media sites the consumer can easily find like-minded individuals or virtual communities – ‘tribes,’ if you will.”

Ripple effect Even a blogger or Twitter user with a tiny audience – 10 people, for instance – can have an impact on the producers he or she mentions. After all, the message goes out to 10 people. When enough people talk about your product, conventional wisdom

Connecting with your readers is the key to success on social media sites, even for high-profile journalists and experts. followers on Twitter (some 35,000) than Robert Parker, who tweets pronouncements on occasion but at last notice had never answered anyone – not even Robinson.

Other individuals with less star wattage have carved out niches that give them much smaller but equally devoted audiences.

In France, Olivier Grosjean’s Le Blog d’Olif is the go-to blog for natural wine, while in Quebec Aurélia Filion’s cheery videos at Bu sur le Web have loyal viewers.

People who like Swiss wines find the VinsConfédérés blog enormously helpful. The New York Cork Report, devoted to news and reviews of wines from that state, has a

22 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

says that a certain percentage of them will buy it. And you never know when a message will go viral or, alternatively, reach a major buyer.

One website in particular, CellarTracker, is a great illustration of the growing importance of the “ordinary” wine enthusiast.

It’s like a giant virtual collective cellar logbook. Holding tasting notes and wine scores from thousands of users around the world, CellarTracker amounts to a kind of communal appraisal of the wines in its database: If 50 users give a wine a good score, it starts to have weight.

Provencher says that social media

websites can also be a marketing tool for winemakers. “For example, a winery can communicate how the harvest is going, publicize upcoming tastings or announce new products. It can also directly answer consumers’ questions and get their feedback.

Wine retailers and wholesalers, for their part, can uncover new distribution channels by using social media sites.”

In another example of successful use of such sites, the Saint-Paul-d’Abbotsford winery Vignoble Les Petits Cailloux has created a lively and informative Facebook page on which its artisans report on everything from their work to tastings to competition results. They also post photographs of such scenes as a spring freeze in the vineyard or vines that are growing ultra-fast in a heat wave.

Asked if social media websites have a significant impact on the business level, Mabray says he’s heard hundreds of anecdotes suggesting that they do – but concedes it’s much too early to draw definitive conclusions, noting there have been very few well-researched studies so far. “Social media is at once an extremely overworked term and the Web’s most important paradigm shift since the invention of email and search engines.”

So only time will tell. But like fine wines, the best elements of social media websites should improve with age… n

25 WINES FROM THE TOP 100 AT THE SAQ From October 21 at SAQ SĂŠlection outlets, discover 25 exceptional wines listed among the top 100 in the 2009 issue of Wine Spectator magazine. Using the reference guide, you can choose the best wines to suit your palate.

You can also enter to win the three top-rated wines.

*No purchase necessary. 18 years and over. For contest rules and details, go to SAQ.com /contest. Certain conditions apply. Must correctly answer a mathematical skill-testing question to be declared a winner. Deadline to enter contest: November 7, 2010, at 11:59 p.m. Draw: November 9, 2010, at 2 p.m. Approximate total value of prizes: $1,100.

Balancing Act

Red AleRt: WheRe ARe the Whites?

IT’S THE OLd STORY Of THE SHOEMAKER’S KIdS ALWAYS GOING BAREfOOT. I LOvE WHITE WINES; I dRINK THEM AT LEAST AS MUCH AS, MAYBE MORE THAN, REdS. BUT fOR SOME REASON THE REdS OUTNUMBER THE WHITES IN MY CELLAR.

by Véronique riVest

T

he two most age-worthy wines in the world, Madeira from Portugal and Jura’s vin jaune, are white. Granted, they have such distinctive aromas and acidity that neither is widely consumed.

Fine sweet whites, particularly those affected by noble rot, are also classics for the cellar. But many other whites of very diverse styles are capable of aging and improving.

In reds, tannins provide the backbone necessary for aging; in whites, it’s acidity. One has only to think of whites known for their keeping potential, such as Rieslings from Germany and Alsace, Burgundies, and vintage champagnes; produced in cooler northern climates, all have notable acidity. Mind you, high acidity in a white does not automatically make it age-worthy.

A wine that’s lively but on the thin side won’t be able to withstand time in the cellar, nor will a wine whose pronounced acidity is due to underripe grapes.

24 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

cellar secrets

The village of Rüdesheim on the Rhine in Germany’s Rheingau region, about 60 kilometres west of Frankfurt. Rheingau Rieslings tend to be richer and more robust than those from, for example, the Mosel.

PHOTOS: JUSTIN LEWIS/ALAMY (BOTTLES); MICK ROCK/CEPHAS (GERMANY).

White wines that are matured for at least a year before bottling are better equipped to stand the test of time, especially if they were aged in wood. The porous wood barrel exposes the wine to air, which improves the wine’s resistance to oxidation later on.

Balance is usually what ultimately determines a wine’s aging potential. The fine Roussanne- and Marsanne-based whites of the northern Rhône – for example, Hermitage – can age very nicely even though they are much more full-bodied and rich than they are lively.

Alcohol content is not a factor. The German Rieslings that age best can have very low alcohol, somewhere around 7 to 10 percent.

Here again it’s the balance among the acidity, fruit, sugar and alcohol that makes these wines so age-worthy.

The TesT of Time For a white wine to survive over time, it has to be matured in a certain way. Wines bottled within six months of the harvest are never good candidates for the cellar. They’re meant to be enjoyed

young and fresh. White wines that are matured for at least a year are better equipped to stand up to being laid down, especially if they’re matured in wood. What’s important is the slow oxidation that occurs via the porous barrel, not the aromas or tastes conferred by the wood. Fine German Rieslings are again a good case in point: Most are matured in old casks that do not transmit wood flavours to the wine but do give it low-level exposure to oxygen, making it more resistant to oxidation as it ages.

Not everyone is a fan of aged whites. Over time, the fresh and fruity aromas of youth segue into very different notes of honey, walnuts and petroleum, along with toasted impressions (but not the kind of toastiness a wine gets from wood; in fact you could swear there are such aromas in aged Sémillons from Australia’s Hunter Valley, yet these wines have never come in contact with wood).

Pairing potential also changes over time. More complex and more delicate, and therefore more easily dominated by strong food flavours, aged whites have to be paired with equally refined dishes. n

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

25

at your service Marco Russo and Stéphane Sainte-Marie

Wooing the WeekendeRS

By Guy SaBourin

Photo: Jean tremblay.

A

t the Sélection outlet in Saint-Jovite in the Laurentians, wine advisors Marco Russo and Stéphane Sainte-Marie (at right in photo) really enjoy Saturdays, thanks to what they call their “weekenders.”

“We get many well-informed epicureans,” says Russo. “So I’m free to recommend my best finds to them.” Lately, many of those finds have been white. “I’m rediscovering whites. One of the reasons I like them is that they’re versatile with food.”

“Some clients ask us to create pairings based on the weekend meals they’re planning,” says Sainte-Marie. “We assemble ready-to-go cases of 12 bottles, with three or four different wines, for these customers.” His preferences also run to whites, especially Pinot Gris and Rieslings. In reds, he’s charmed by Pinot Noirs, Malbecs and New World Cabernet Sauvignons, as long as they’re not too powerful.

Though Tremblant has its own SAQ outlet at the foot of the ski slopes, the Saint-Jovite store attracts some of the

sporty clientele from that resort town and tends to be busiest during ski season, school holidays and summertime. Weekends and good weather also bring an uptick in customers.

Russo says that visitors to the area have predictable buying patterns. “Ontarians buy spirits, for example, while Japanese tourists love icewines and Scotch.” Many

“We assemble ready-to-go cases of 12 bottles, with three or four different wines, for these customers.” skiers want “comfort wines,” heady, fullbodied reds. Port, on the other hand, “has lost momentum in the last few years.”

Still, both advisors note that their outlet is regional in vocation rather than touristy, the Tremblant aura having faded.

The store serves an enormous territory of lakeside cottages and country homes, and a growing number of permanent residents.

Some 60 restaurants and a few agencies

also get their supplies from the SaintJovite SAQ, which means specialty products move briskly and new ones can continually be offered.

Sainte-Marie joined the SAQ in 1990 and is about to obtain his accreditation as an advisor. At the outlet he’s the specialist in New World wines.

Russo sees mainly to French and Italian wines. With the SAQ since 1988 and an accredited wine advisor since 2008, he is also interested in ampelography (the field of botany concerned with the identification and classification of grapevines). “It takes you travelling, just like other aspects of wine,” says Russo, a Cartesian whose love of vineyards only deepened when he visited one belonging to relatives in southern Italy.

He’s also fascinated by food-wine pairings: He seeks not just complementary matches but “soaring harmony” in which the wine and the food magnify one another rather than simply registering as neutral.

“I’m delighted to have a clientele here in Saint-Jovite that’s open to this kind of experimentation.” n

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

27

primer Reduced-alcohol wines

How Low Can THey Go? WINE DRINkERS ARE SHIfTING AWAY fROM HIGH-ALCOHOL WINES, AND GOVERNMENTS AND WINEMAkERS AROUND THE WORLD ARE PAYING ATTENTION.

By Patrick Désy

A

fter water, alcohol is the second constituent by volume in wine.

Reducing a wine’s alcoholic strength almost always brings about changes in the aromas and other components. Alcohol also plays a crucial role in the sensory perception of wine: It tempers the sensation of acidity, enhances the sugar note and contributes to the softness of the mouthfeel. Loweralcohol wines (9 to 10 percent), unless they are sweet, are typically perceived to be more acidic and astringent.

“It all comes down to the technique you use to obtain a lower-alcohol wine,” argues Languedoc vigneron Vincent Pugibet, who uses the filtration system known as reverse osmosis at his Domaine la Colombette. An agricultural engineer, Pugibet filters the wine at high pressure through a membrane to extract a mixture of water and alcohol known as the “permeate.” The alcohol is then removed from the permeate by distillation and the water is returned to the wine, producing a

28 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

wine that is close to the original but reduced in alcohol. “The aromas are preserved with this technique,” says Pugibet.

Diffusing the Alcohol BomB In Europe, alcohol-reduction techniques in winemaking were prohibited by the European Union right up until 2009, when it did an about-face and issued new regulations that permit an alcohol adjustment of up to 2 percent by volume.

In France, such wines can be sold as vins de table or vins de pays if all the other requirements for those categories are also met. The alcoholic strength of Appellation d’Origine wines can be reduced only with prior authorization from the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité.

There is nothing to prevent French vignerons from reducing alcohol content by more than 2 percent, but in such cases boisson issue de vin partiellement désalcoolisé or boisson issue de raisin must appear on the label.

In the New World, alcohol-reduction methods are quite widely permitted and quite widely used, admits Ivo Jeramaz, who oversees production at California’s Grgich Hills Estate and is the nephew of Miljenko Grgich, famous for crafting the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 1973 that went on to be crowned best wine at the 1976 Judgment of Paris. “But we don’t

alcohol-reduction practices are common in California. use any of these techniques,” Jeramaz adds. At Beringer, head winemaker Laurie Hook says they have no need for such procedures either.

This makes Patrice Breton smile. Breton is the Quebecer behind Vice Versa, also in the Napa Valley. “We use the spinning cone method, in which alcohol and aroma are evaporated under vacuum and at low

in sTores november 4

NaTuraLLy LighTer temperature. The aroma fraction is then recovered separately from the alcohol, condensed and reincorporated into the wine after it’s been dealcoholized.

Down to a certain threshold, there is no discernible loss of taste or aroma.

Past that threshold, it gets complicated and risky.”

Alcohol-reduction practices are common in California, particularly the method by which water is added to the must (see Summer 2009 Cellier).

Techniques such as reverse osmosis and spinning cones are costly and used primarily by producers of fine wines.

Incidentally, wine producers in California pay a federal excise tax based on the

alcohol content of their wines: The tax is $1.07 per gallon (about 3.8 litres) on wines of up to 14-percent alcohol content but jumps nearly 50 percent on wines of more than 14-percent alcohol.

An additional alcohol-reduction technique involves selecting vines that produce grapes that are less rich in sugar and then using yeasts that are less efficient at converting sugar into alcohol.

Finally, the practice of extracting a concentrated sugar syrup from the must prior to fermentation, thereby reducing the wine’s alcohol potential, is growing in popularity. But up to 15 percent of volume is lost by this method, making it an expensive way to go. n

The Drive To Tougher L aws

PHOTOS: ROUX OLIVIER/SAGAPHOTO.COM/ALAMY; ANDRÉ DOYON (BOTTLES).

Drivers’ blood-alcohol content is regulated almost everywhere in the world. In Canada impaired driving has been a criminal offence since 1921, although it wasn’t until 1985 that judges began imposing the strictest penalties with any consistency. The current legal limit in Quebec is 0.08 percent (representing 80 milligrams of alcohol in 100 millilitres of blood). A bill providing for administrative penalties (e.g. driver’s licence suspension) starting at blood alcohol levels of 0.05 percent was on the National Assembly’s legislative calendar as we went to press. In the United States the legal limit is 0.08 percent but penalties can apply starting at 0.05 percent depending on the state.

In Europe the rates tolerated are typically lower than on this side of the Atlantic. In Sweden and Norway, for instance, the legal limit is 0.02 percent. In France and Italy the limit is 0.05 percent. In Hungary and the Czech Republic there is zero tolerance, as in Iran and Panama. In Japan the limit

Balanced and Ripe Germany’s hot weather in 2003 yielded fully ripe wines, as witness the generous candiedlemon and hydrocarbon aromas in this one. The pronounced acidity makes for a very refreshing mouth that’s rounded off with the residual sugar typically found in Spätlese (German for “late harvest”) wines. Serve as an aperitif or with blue cheeses. L.S. 2012

GERmaNy Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese 2003, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer QMP, Weingut Kesselstatt, 8% Alc/Vol $27.35, 11363472, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

Southern Freshness Known for its excellent Central Otago Rieslings, New Zealand’s Mt Difficulty here delivers a wine designed for pleasure. The nose exhibits floral and mineral notes, and sipping this Riesling is like biting into a very ripe pink grapefruit. Guaranteed to brighten up the dullest winter afternoon. D.L. NEw ZEaLaNd Target Gully Riesling 2009, Mt Difficulty Wines, 9.5% Alc/Vol $25.60, 11334778, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

is 0.03 percent, in Australia it’s 0.05 percent and in New Zealand it’s 0.08 percent.

Tasting notes: Diane Lesage and Luc Soucy.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

29

ASK BILL

Contributor bill ZaCharkiw answers questions that wine buffs frequently ask.

1

Decanting: Sometimes, always, never? Is there a simple rule on this?

My advice is, if you have a carafe handy then decant your wine, unless it’s exceptionally old. While decanting does not “soften” the tannins as many people mistakenly believe, the contact with oxygen releases certain aromatic compounds and gases, making the wine more expressive. This goes for white wines as well!

How long should you leave your wine in a carafe before drinking it?

That’s a tough one: I find most wines can develop and improve for many hours in a carafe, but that takes patience, and I have to admit that an open bottle of wine in my house rarely lasts that long. So let’s just say that you need at least an hour (Editor’s note: The Taste Test in the Winter 2007–2008 Cellier was on this very topic.)

Some people say that red Burgundy should never be decanted because it’s too fragile. I remember an evening about five years ago when I was serving Champlain Charest, one of the world’s great collectors of Burgundy. He had brought from his enormous cellar a Nuits-Saint-Georges from the mid-1990s and he insisted, over my protests, that I pour it into a carafe. I have great respect for Mr. Charest, so if it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for me – and for you.

30 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

expertise

3

Photos: Camille moirenC/Corbis (Carafe) ; oCean/Corbis (white/red wine) ; ian shaw/alamy (exPensive).

2

Is it true that you should always serve a white wine before a red?

I have been a sommelier for years and have tested this principle on a number of occasions. I have put together tasting menus where I alternated red and white wines – for example, starting with two reds and finishing with three whites. A French adage suggests that drinking white wines after reds is bad for digestion, and I have gone so far as to give really wary clients my email address so that they could send me a note describing their digestive misadventures as a result of daring to drink a white wine after a red. No one ever has.

Drinking white after red can sometimes make a great deal of sense. At professional tastings where there are a lot of wines to sample, I like to break up the lineup of reds with a few whites, as their acidity will give my taste buds a break from the tannins in the reds. In fact a number of winemakers in Burgundy prefer to serve their Pinot Noirs before their Chardonnays for this reason. The same goes for many Bordeaux producers.

My advice is to follow the food, and serve the wine that makes sense.

Lighter whites such as Sauvignon Blancs are perfect for the start of a meal, as their acidity refreshes the mouth. Drinking a light white after a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is not a good idea from a taste perspective, and anyway I can’t imagine a menu where this would be at all logical. But serving a “bigger” white after a red works: A white Châteauneuf-du-Pape can easily follow a Beaujolais, while a Gewürztraminer, especially one with a touch of residual sugar, can come after a Bordeaux.

The more expensive a wine, the better it will be: true or false?

I once organized a blind tasting of $10–$30 wines for 12 non-experts in which all they had to do was guess the wines’ prices. Nearly everyone was able to tell which were more expensive. So I would say that as a general rule, the more you pay, the more complexity you will find in the glass. This is especially true when comparing $20–$30 wines with $10–$20 bottles. However, once you get into the really expensive wines, I find the quality difference is often less apparent.

But you ask if they are “better.” While most people would agree on the face of it that a BMW is better than a beat-up Ford truck, what if you wanted to speed along a bumpy country road? Or were on a camping trip? Or had three kids eating poutine in the back seat?

Much like your choice of car, your appreciation of a wine depends on the circumstances. Yes, more expensive bottles will often be more concentrated and more intense. Older bottles might be more complex and thought-provoking. But is that what you want every time you open a bottle?

One of my greatest wine moments of late occurred in Alsace last June when I ordered a choucroute and white wine at a corner bistro. My food arrived along with a half-litre of wine in a ceramic pitcher and a matching thick-rimmed, opaque ceramic glass. I had no idea what the wine was or who made it. It cost $10, and it was perfect.

PS: Questions about baffling customs or curious behaviours? Longing to share a pet theory?

We can be reached at cellier@transcontinental.ca so drop us a note.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

31

Beauty Before age?

does a fine wine neCessaRily have to be age-woRthy? ConveRsely, Can an ultRa-aPPealing young wine that’s Ready to dRink now and won’t evolve with age be ConsideRed a fine wine?

By Patrick Désy

“I

t used to be that wine was made not for one’s children but for one’s grandchildren,” remarks Pierre Lurton, estate manager for two legendary properties, Château Cheval Blanc in SaintÉmilion and Château d’Yquem in Sauternes.

In his view there’s no getting around it:

32 n CELLIER Winter 2010-2011

A fine wine must be capable of aging.

In fact this is one of its greatest qualities.

But imagine the following situation, one you might have experienced yourself at some point: You’re sipping a relatively young wine, at most two or three years old, and from the very first glass it gives

you an impression of grace and fullness.

There are no jarring notes. Everything is just as it should be. The wine both exceeds your expectations and challenges your preconceived notions. Its harmony is indisputable, its fruitiness charming. Most tellingly, it reflects the characteristics specific to its place of origin. It is, in short, a wine that could be described as perfect.

This raises the inevitable question: In that it’s sublime now and doesn’t appear to need aging, can this wine be termed “fine”?

Certainly I myself have come across a number of wines that from their youngest days seemed to me to be creating their own legends; I couldn’t imagine what more time could add to them. Off the top of my head, I’m thinking of American wines like the famed 2001 Harlan Estate from Napa or the extraordinary reds from eccentric Californian producer Manfred Krankl at Sine Qua Non. These are spectacular wines that elicit strong emotional reactions.

I’m also thinking of wines from far more classic regions, such as the Da Capo 2003 from Domaine du Pegau in Châteauneufdu-Pape and many of the top Bordeaux from recent vintages, like the Château Mouton Rothschild 2005, that go down admirably well today despite the fact that such kinds of wine can tend to become closed after four or five years in the cellar.

It goes without saying that these iconic wines will probably acquire something of

fact or fiction

a patina over time and may even lose some of their high spirits. Yet isn’t it precisely the explosive personality of youth that gives them such panache? In other words, they may age, but it’s hard to imagine that they’ll improve. They were sublime right out of the starting gate, but is that enough to put them in the fine-wine category?

There are many who agree with Lurton.

Purists will even argue that a fine wine is often difficult to drink in its youth and is able to reveal its secrets only after many years in the cellar. The reds from the Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay come to mind, as do the reds from Domaine Henri Gouges in Nuits-Saint-Georges and the whites of the late Didier Dagueneau in Pouilly-Fumé in the Loire. These are wines that are often closed like an oyster in their youth but transform over time to give the purest and most perfect expression of the terroirs where they were born.

Photo: RobeRt Randall/CoRbis.

UnboUnd by Time But Hervé Bizeul, ex-journalist, ex-sommelier, vigneron at Clos des Fées in Roussillon and blogger, shrugs off this apparent dichotomy.

He says to forget the idea of, on the one hand, wines that are hard when young and need time to find full expression, and on the other, immediate wines that are indifferent to lengthy cellaring. In his opinion a fine wine must liberate itself from time. “A fine wine is fine in the barrel, in the bottle, in

its first years and in its later years,” he has written. “The sensation of a fine wine is immediate, instantaneous and enduring.”

But then, by definition, doesn’t this mean

comes. A fine wine is a wine capable of developing, of standing the test of time, while displaying character and personality.”

Probably this was his way of saying that

Purists argue that a fine wine is often difficult to drink in its youth and is able to reveal its secrets only after many years in the cellar. that Gouges and d’Angerville wines or highend Barolos, all of which can be mute when young, are not fine wines?

In an interview in La Revue du Vin de France in November 2009, Angelo Gaja, the pope of Italy’s Piedmont, nuanced this perspective by adding another dimension: “To me, the priority of a very fine wine is to communicate the place from whence it

wines that are more difficult to drink while young nevertheless have their place in the wine pantheon.

It would seem that worth doesn’t always take years to surface and that very young and very old wines alike can be “fine.” Still, all things being equal, the older wines that have been awaiting us for 30, 40 or 50 years invariably generate extra emotion… n

C h a n g i n g Ta s T e s Winemaker Hervé Bizeul believes fine wine is timeless and transcends fashions – so much so that it’s accessible and compelling at every stage of its life. Pierre Lurton agrees only up to a point: “Today, given our constant quest to make perfect wines, I doubt that we would be able to truly appreciate the wines of the past.” As an example he cites the famous 1947 Cheval Blanc that, with abnormally high volatile acidity and four to five grams of residual sugar (the one compensating for the other), would not necessarily impress modern-day tasters. The same could be said of Camille Giroud’s Corton 1947, which many feel is to Burgundy what the Cheval Blanc 1947 is to Bordeaux.

CELLIER Winter 2010-2011 n

33

5 wines, 5 chefs, 5 recipes

Symbiotic SymphonieS Photos: maude chauvin (Graziella, l’auGuste); martine doucet (raza, la chronique); louise bilodeau (le clocher Penché).

Graziella, old montreal

Raza, montreal

Le clocher penché, Quebec city

Auguste, Sherbrooke

La chronique, montreal

By Josée Larivée

F

requently overheard: “I’m having a dinner party and am wondering what wine will go best with the dish I’ll be serving.” Wine connoisseurs come at it from the opposite direction: “What food would best complement this wine?” Either way, the goal is the same: a dining experience in which nothing clashes and everything adds to the enjoyment.

In an attempt to answer both questions at once, we asked five Quebec chefs to create a recipe to go with a specific wine. Wine enthusiasts all, they were delighted to comply.

Each of them has a distinct culinary style and approach to food-wine pairings.

Renowned for her modern and refined take on Italian cuisine, Graziella Battista of the eponymous Montreal restaurant loves new

pairing challenges. In devising food-wine matches, Mario Navarrete often goes back to his South American roots, in keeping with the Nuevo Latino dishes at his Montreal eateries Raza and Madre. Éric Fontaine of Quebec City’s Le Clocher Penché believes the freshness of the ingredients comes first and the wine is then chosen around the meal. Danny St-Pierre, a rising star on the Sherbrooke food scene, often has Burgundy in mind when working on the menu at Auguste. And to Olivier de Montigny, who presides over the kitchen at one of Montreal’s best restaurants, La Chronique, wine is a source of endless inspiration.

So for your delectation, here are five wines, five chefs and five festive dishes.

Bon appétit!

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

35

Graziella Battista, chef and co-owner, Graziella, Old Montreal

I

l Sole had been a popular St. Laurent Boulevard restaurant for 13 years when Graziella Battista closed it down in August of 2006. On its final night, the place was packed and some patrons were in tears.

“That was when I realized how much my cuisine meant to them,” Battista recalls.

“I also realized the feeling was mutual.

There was a connection between us in some fundamental way.” With Pierre Jullien, her husband, business partner and sommelier, she took a year off to ponder her options, one of which nearly caused Montreal to lose her: She was being wooed by the owners of a major winery in Italy, who wanted her to head up the hospitality component of their estate, akin to a Relais & Châteaux property. “I thought about my parents, who had left their lives in Italy to settle here,” says Battista. “Then I thought

about our nine-year-old son, Victor.

And I faced facts: Our hearts belonged to Montreal.” So she chose to stay, and to open a new restaurant, Graziella.

“I learned everything from my parents, especially my work ethic and my love of cooking,” Battista observes. She constantly strives for precision and balance (the process by which she makes pasta, for example, takes two full days). Born in Montreal, she grew up so immersed in Italian culture that when she talks about her childhood you immediately picture her playing under hanging sausages and prosciutto hams.

“Italian cuisine is above all a regional cuisine,” she says. “My mother’s cuisine is Calabrian. It has character! I lightened it up, though, modernized it and refined it, and I went back to the essentials. My dishes express what it is to me to be Italian.”

the WiNe “la spiNetta’s laNGhe NeBBiOlO 2007 expresses the full typicity of the king of Italian grapes,” says Battista. “Certainly the nose is neither very expressive nor very complex but that’s to be expected, as many Langhe appellation wines are sourced from young vines in the well-known Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. But any doubts disappear once this wine is in the mouth. It presents a pure, silky framework and flavours of cherry, wild berries, cedar and licorice supported by good acidity and lots of finesse in the finish. All this makes it a good match with the wild mushrooms.”

New arrivals ● Page 74

36 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

Morel MushrooM risotto 4 serViNGs INGREDIENTS

- 15 mL (1 tbsp) unsalted butter - 60 mL (4 tbsp) white onions, finely chopped - 200–300 g (7–10 oz) fresh morel mushrooms* (cleaned with a cloth or brush) - 125 mL (1/2 cup) dry Marsala - 500 mL (2 cups) Vialone Nano rice - 2 litres (8 cups) chicken or vegetable stock, hot - 500 mL (2 cups) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated - 30 mL (2 tbsp) unsalted butter - Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste *Rehydrated dried morel mushrooms can also be used.

GaRNISh

- 125 mL (1/2 cup) Parmigiano Reggiano, grated - Few drops black truffle oil from an appellation DIRECTIONS

In a sautéing pan on low, melt the butter and sweat the onions. Add the mushrooms and cook for one minute. Deglaze with the Marsala and season lightly.

Still on low heat, add the rice and mix well. Stir continuously while gradually adding the hot stock.

After 25–30 minutes of cooking, the rice should be cooked but still crunchy and liquid. Adjust seasoning.

Take the rice off the heat. Gently stir in the butter and Parmigiano Reggiano. This step, responsible for the risotto’s creamy texture, is known in Italian as mantecare.

Presentation Serve in four heated soup plates. Sprinkle with grated Parmigiano Reggiano and add three or four drops of black truffle oil.

“I use Vialone Nano rice because it’s still crunchy in the centre after cooking,” says Battista. “To get the desired results, you have to taste the rice often during cooking. And be sure to serve risotto before the main course.”

photos: André doyon (bottle); mAude chAuvin (bAttistA).

a taste OF italY

“Pierre looks after the wine and comes up with flawless pairings for my cuisine. But sometimes it’s the reverse – he’ll suggest a wine and I’ll create a dish to go with it. I enjoy the extra level of creativity it requires.”

Mario Navarrete, chef and owner, raza, Madre and À table, Montreal

4 ServiNGS

Veal - 15 mL (1 tbsp) vegetable oil - 8 veal cheeks - 200 mL (4/5 cup) red wine - 2 litres (8 cups) chorizo bouillon - Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste DIRECTIONS

M

ario Navarrete was just 17 when he showed up at the Iron Horse Restaurant in Ashland, VA, eager to work with famed chef Andrew Siff. “In his white coat he looked like a doctor and I wanted to be just like him!” Navarrete exclaims.

The young Peruvian was so persistent that Siff finally hired him – to clean the bathrooms.

“The day he made me garde-manger, I labelled every item in the fridge. I barely knew the difference between a shitake and a truffle. But in Siff’s kitchen I learned respect for the product.” In Montreal, Navarrete worked at Toqué! and Les Caprices de Nicolas, where he absorbed the notion of culinary precision. Then back he went to South America to study its flavours and products, such as purple corn and quinoa, and craft his own version of Nuevo Latino cuisine, a fusion of South American, French and American traditions.

Now 36, Navarrete runs three Montreal restaurants: Raza (serving up fine Latin cuisine), Madre (a bistro), and the new À Table on Fleury Street in Ahuntsic (a homey, relaxed kind of place). “I want the chef to serve his food himself,” Navarrete says of the latter establishment. “I want patrons to feel comfortable about exploring new foods and wines. Cuisine without generosity is pointless.”

38 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

INGREDIENTS

Chorizo bouillon - 30 mL (2 tbsp) vegetable oil - 1 kg (35 oz) chorizo, minced - 1 onion, finely chopped - 8 cloves garlic - 50 g (1 3/4 oz) tomato paste - 2.5 litres (10 cups) water

Chorizo bouillon In a large stewpot on high, heat the vegetable oil and cook the chorizo and onion for five minutes. Add the garlic, tomato paste and water, and let simmer for 45 minutes.

Strain, retaining the liquid for bouillon.

Veal Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F). Salt and pepper the veal cheeks and brown them on both sides in a large ovenproof saucepan. Remove the cheeks, skim off the fat, deglaze with the red wine and boil for one minute. Add the chorizo bouillon and the browned veal cheeks. Cover and cook in the oven for 2 1/2 hours.

Presentation Serve with pan-sautéed green beans and a purée of Yukon Gold potatoes and chives.

THE WINE “Braised dishes have very concentrated flavours that call for a complex wine,” says Navarrete. “In this one, the simmered flavours permeating the veal cheeks go hand in hand with a potent wine. MoNtGraS’ QUatro 2008, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Carmenère and Malbec, brims with aromas and has good acidity. The fruity nose and the pepper note are a great complement to the chorizo bouillon aromas.”

New arrivals ● Page 74

photos: André doyon (bottle); mArtine doucet (nAvArrete).

CULtivatiNG HiS rootS

VEal CHEEks BraIsEd IN CHorIzo BouIlloN

“I’m from Peru and I have a real soft spot for South American wines. I want my customers to experience the treasures the New World is producing.”

Éric Fontaine, day chef,

Le clocher Penché, Quebec city PaN-SEarEd FoIE GraS WITH ExoTIc FruIT 4 aPPetiZerS

FreSHneSS FirSt F

or Éric Fontaine, freshness and creativity are absolutes. You know this just from the way the 31-year-old chef describes the produce he uses, especially items he gathers himself. “Try to reproduce the fragrance of a stock made from oyster mushrooms picked in autumn,” he says, as if issuing a challenge. “That’s when the aroma and taste are the most pronounced.”

Clearly freshness is an obsession with Fontaine, who worked in the Laurie Raphaël kitchens for 10 years. “You tailor the menu to what’s coming into the kitchen,” he insists.

“Follow the seasons and be both structured and instinctive. Cooking is like medicine: part art, part science – except that if a chef’s not good, clients rarely return for a second appointment.” He admits to envying chefs in countries with warmer climates where choices abound year-round. “But even in winter, when squash seems to be ubiquitous, I absolutely will not serve dull dishes. I want that very first glimpse of the dish to provoke an emotional reaction. Chefs have become celebrities and to merit that kind of attention you have to stay ahead of the game.”

40 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

- 15 mL (1 tbsp) vegetable oil - 1/2 pineapple, peeled and cored - 1 mango, peeled and pitted - 1/4 papaya, peeled and pitted - 8 lychees, pitted - 4 kumquats - 300 g (10 1/2 oz) foie gras, fresh or from a terrine Note: Other fruit such as persimmons, starfruit and apricots would work just as well.

Glaze - 200 mL (4/5 cup) maple syrup - 50 mL (1/5 cup) soy sauce - 20 mL (4 tsp) rice vinegar - 5 mL (1 tsp) fresh ginger, finely chopped - Pinch ground coriander - 10 sprigs rosemary DIRECTIONS

Glaze In a saucepan, combine all the glaze ingredients except the rosemary. Reduce by half to obtain a syrupy consistency. Let cool and incorporate the rosemary at the last moment.

Fruit Cut the fruit into finger-width slices or wedges.

The pieces must be big enough for searing in a pan.

Cut the kumquats in four and remove and discard the flesh, keeping the rind. In a sautéing pan, heat the oil and lightly brown the fruit and kumquat rinds. Deglaze with 125 mL (1/2 cup) of the glaze mixture, gently coating the fruit with it. Reserve.

Foie gras Cut four 75-gram (2 1/2-oz) foie gras escalopes into slices at least 1 cm (1/2 in) thick. Bring the foie gras to room temperature and season generously.

Heat a skillet (without oil) on high and cook the foie gras slices rapidly, so that they don’t melt.

If the burner is too hot, remove the skillet from the heat and let the foie gras continue cooking. It’s ready when it feels soft when you press on the top of it. If the slices are more than 1 cm (1/2 in) thick, cook in the oven for two minutes. Serve when the interior is soft.

Presentation Place glazed fruit in the centre of a plate, drizzle a circle of the remaining glaze mixture around it and top with a slice of foie gras.

THE WINE “The fruit that’s available in winter inspired me to make pan-seared foie gras,” says Fontaine. “To go with it, I chose an organically cultivated wine that has some richness to it, with a few dominant spices and a slight acidity. Domaine aLbert Mann’S Grand cru HenGSt Pinot GriS 2008 has the requisite power, roundness and aromatic complexity. And its hint of honey nicely echoes the exotic-fruit taste.”

New arrivals ● Page 74

photos: André doyon (bottle); louise bilodeAu (FontAine).

INGREDIENTS

“We rarely create a meal around a wine. Instead, the sommelier tastes all the dishes and then decides on the wines. The world of wine can easily accommodate this approach because it’s so incredibly diverse.”

Danny St-Pierre, chef and co-owner, auguste, Sherbrooke

D

anny St-Pierre and his wife Anik Beaudoin serve up friendly fare that’s focused on local products and respect for the ingredients. It’s a fusion of haute cuisine and home cooking, if you will; after all, the name of their restaurant, Auguste, evokes both the cooking of Anik’s grandmother Augustine and that of the legendary Auguste Escoffier. The couple’s goal is to enable middle-income customers to enjoy gourmet fare and try new wines. “I’m 33 now and my eccentric years are behind me,” says St-Pierre.

“When I was the chef at Derrière les Fagots in Laval, I was like a psychopath!

I thought everybody except me was an idiot. I’ve changed.

“Now the food is more important than my ego. I no longer care about being fashionable. It’s all about the food – and the wine – being good.”

St-Pierre himself buys the wines for the restaurant, 70 percent of them private imports. “A third of my reds are Pinot Noirs and two-thirds of my whites are Chardonnays. And I keep that in mind when I’m cooking.

So yes, in a way I adapt my dishes to my wine list. Taste is good but harmony is better. I’ve learned this over time.”

the Wine

Wine-Braised stanstead raBBit Legs With ParsniP, Poached eggs and Lardon ParsLey 4 SerVinGS INGREDIENTS

- 30 mL (2 tbsp) vegetable oil - 4 rabbit legs (Le Lapin de Stanstead brand) - 2 red onions, sliced - 375 mL (1 1/2 cups) red wine - 500 mL (2 cups) veal stock - 4 large parsnips, sliced - Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Flavourings - 2 cloves garlic - Pinch freshly ground nutmeg - 2 whole cloves - 2 bay leaves Lardon parsley - 500 mL (2 cups) lardons (or mild pancetta) - 500 mL (2 cups) flat-leaf parsley leaves Garnish - 4 eggs, poached - 4 bread croutons, buttered and grilled - 100 mL (2/5 cup) chives, finely chopped

“With this SaViGny-DOMinODe PreMier CrU 2006 from ChanSOn Père &

DIRECTIONS

FiLS, you have a Burgundy that’s as delicate as a princess and you’ve got to

In a casserole, heat the oil on high and brown the rabbit legs. Add the onions and flavourings. Deglaze with the red wine. Add enough veal stock to cover the meat. Cook on low, partly covered, for one hour, adding the parsnips halfway through. When cooking is complete, remove and reserve the rabbit, parsnips and onions. Reduce the braising liquid by half to obtain a smooth sauce. Season to taste. Meanwhile, pan-fry the lardons, remove from the burner and mix in the parsley. Heat the poached eggs in the sauce.

be gentle with it!” St-Pierre says. “That’s why the rabbit is braised in a bouillon. When you cook white meat this way, you never get a dominant flavour, so the dish won’t deconstruct the wine. This premier cru has a classic Savigny nose – medium intense but direct – with mingled aromas of underbrush and raw fruit. The mouth shows slight acidity, providing a good counterpoint to the parsnip’s sweetness. The wine doesn’t have the velvety texture of the top Burgundies but it certainly has finesse, and the rabbit respects that.”

New arrivals ● Page 74

42 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

Presentation Divide the parsnips, onions and lardon-parsley preparation among four warmed soup plates. Add the rabbit legs, poached eggs and croutons. Sprinkle with chives.

photos: André doyon (bottle); mAude chAuvin (st-pierre).

aCCeSSiBLe GOUrMet Fare

“My cuisine is humble and tasty without hitting you over the head. That’s why we can have Burgundies on our wine list. I like these subtle, elegant wines, and I like to think my food does them justice.”

Olivier de MOntigny, chef and co-owner, la Chronique, Montreal

trAnsCending trends

44 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

by the world of wine, he offers patrons a selection of 12 to 15 wines each night, from which they can order by the glass.

“They discover more wines that way,” notes the 31-year-old. Just hear him rave about a meal in Guewenheim, at the Restaurant de la Gare, an establishment

he had come across by chance on a visit to Alsace: “We had a Cheval Blanc 1988 and a Les Perrières Meursault Premier Cru 1990 – for a fraction of what you’d pay here! It was amazing! Wine is part of my life. It takes me around the world.

It’s an endless source of inspiration.”

THE WINE “The abundant marbling in the high-quality beef and the carpaccio’s soft texture should be counterbalanced by a little acidity, and with its white-fruit aromas and mineral notes, the MönChhOf riesling 2008 delivers that,” says de Montigny. “The saltiness of the Kumamoto oyster will make the wine seem sweeter, but the soy-maple glaze will redress that imbalance. Ultimately, to make the dish work with this German Riesling you need high-quality, fatty and tender meat, oysters that are naturally fairly salty and a good sweet-salty balance, supplied here by the glaze.”

New arrivals ● Page 74

photos: André doyon (bottle); MArtine doucet (de Montigny).

A

clock on the dining room wall of La Chronique says 4:50 – and always has, ever since the restaurant opened 15 years ago. It was put there by Marc De Canck, one of Montreal’s top chefs, who launched La Chronique. “It’s meant as a reminder that time should stand still here,” explains current co-owner Olivier de Montigny. “Cuisine changes so fast.

Take ravioli: There’s nothing the least bit Italian about it anymore. Now the word ‘ravioli’ evokes more of a form. On my menu, it’s beet ravioli stuffed with goat cheese. I’m as innovative as the next chef, but I like the idea of transcending fashions, of enduring. Fifteen years from now I see myself still here at La Chronique. My cuisine is gourmet and authentic. I work with cream, oil and butter.”

And with wine, this enthusiast might have added. When François Chartier used to hold his Club de Vins sessions at La Chronique, de Montigny would never miss an opportunity to work at them – for free. Because he’s so enthralled

“Sommeliers are increasingly in the spotlight at restaurants. They still tailor their suggestions to the dishes created in the kitchen, but wine is becoming more prominent. And that’s great.�

Angus Beef CArpACCio with oysters, wAkAme And soy-mAple glAzed shiitAke mushrooms INGREDIENTS

- Juice of 1/2 lime - Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS

Soy-maple glaze In a small saucepan, combine all glaze ingredients and bring to a boil.

Reduce by a third. Reserve at room temperature.

Ginger vinaigrette In a bowl, thoroughly combine all vinaigrette ingredients.

Season and reserve.

- 200 g (7 oz) beef carpaccio,* cut into four pieces - 12 oysters, shelled - 50 g (1 3/4 oz) wakame (seaweed), rehydrated

Spicy mayonnaise - 125 mL (1/2 cup) mayonnaise - 30 mL (2 tbsp) Sriracha sauce (a hot sauce available in grocery stores) - Juice of 1/2 lime

*Ask the butcher for four 50-gram (1 3/4-oz) pieces of beef fillet, each pounded into a carpaccio of 15 cm (6 in) in diameter.

Soy-maple glaze - 100 mL (2/5 cup) maple syrup - 100 mL (2/5 cup) soy sauce - 100 mL (2/5 cup) water

Sautéed shiitakes - 30 mL (2 tbsp) olive oil - 120 g (4 oz) shiitake mushrooms, minced - 2 green onions, minced - 125 mL (1/2 cup) soy-maple glaze - Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Spicy mayonnaise In a bowl, thoroughly combine the mayonnaise, Sriracha sauce and lime juice. Season and reserve in the refrigerator.

Ginger vinaigrette - 125 mL (1/2 cup) olive oil - 30 mL (2 tbsp) reduced-salt soy sauce - 15 mL (1 tbsp) rice vinegar - 15 mL (1 tbsp) maple syrup - 15 mL (1 tbsp) finely chopped grey shallot - 15 mL (1 tbsp) fresh ginger, chopped - 15 mL (1 tbsp) finely chopped chives

Cucumber-and-green-apple salad - 1 Lebanese cucumber, julienned - 1 green apple, julienned - 15 mL (1 tbsp) rice vinegar - 30 mL (2 tbsp) olive oil - 125 mL (1/2 cup) fresh coriander, finely chopped - Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Cucumber-and-green-apple salad In a bowl, thoroughly combine all salad ingredients. Season and reserve.

46 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

Sautéed shiitakes In a skillet, heat the oil and sauté the shitakes for two minutes. Add the green onions and continue cooking for one minute. Add the soy-maple glaze to coat. Season and keep warm on very low.

Presentation Put a slice of beef carpaccio on a plate and brush with the ginger vinaigrette. Make three small beds of seaweed and place an oyster on each.

Arrange some of the cucumber-apple salad on each oyster. Sprinkle the plate with the shitakes. Garnish with dots of the spicy mayonnaise and a few drops of the soy-maple glaze.

Photo: Martine doucet.

4 SERVINGS

Oregon

A Burgundy StAte Of Mind Like Burgundy, OregOn is knOwn fOr its PinOt nOirs. But

that’s nOt aLL these Premium wine regiOns have in cOmmOn.

King Estate outside Eugene.

Nearly half of the 400-plus hectares owned by the King family is planted with vines.

by Patrick Désy

O

regon’s relatively cool climate is a perfect match for the finicky Pinot Noir. The state’s best-known wine district is the Willamette Valley, flanked by the Coast Range to the west and the Cascade Mountains to the east.

Photo: louise savoie.

At least one new winery opens every month.

Vintages can vary widely because spring in the valley can be chilly and rainy and autumn can be damp.

As in the finest Burgundy crus, the Willamette’s prime vineyard sites are halfway up hillsides.

Much of the region has rich volcanic soils overlaid with fine sand on the hilltops and a mix of marine sediments and large basalt stones lower down.

Elevation makes a big difference because of the cold air coming down from the mountains. In fact

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

49

to be designated an American Viticultural Area (AVA), a site must be at an elevation of at least 75 metres. Rollin Soles, owner of Argyle and one of the area’s pioneer winemakers, says the division of the Willamette Valley into six subappellations represented the culmination of tremendous effort by local winemakers.

“It’s kind of like our Côte d’Or,” he

remarks. Among the valley appellations are the famed Dundee Hills, the tiny Ribbon Ridge and the scenic Chehalem Mountains.

Oregon is currently in the midst of a major boom. According to Bernard Lacroute, the affable owner of WillaKenzie, at least one new winery opens every month. Vintners in the state

wine regions washington

columbia river

Pacific ocean

portland

1

10 9

2 3 4

8

5 tains

6

de m oun

idaho

ca

7

11

sca

eugene

nevada

California

include a number of people from France – some, not coincidentally, from Burgundy.

Pinot Gris In Burgundy the sovereign white grape is Chardonnay. In Oregon it’s Pinot Gris.

Oregon wines are lighter and less complex in style than those of Alsace, and most are meant to be drunk young.

Riesling is also gaining in popularity here and yields good results. Chardonnay is slowly carving out a place for itself, while Syrah and Merlot remain second-tier grapes.

Many of Oregon’s Pinot Noirs are ripe and have amazing natural acidity that makes them downright delightful.

Two styles dominate: modern with round fruitiness, similar to the California model, and classic and firm-postured, closer to the European. Some age-worthy cuvées can seem austere when young but loosen up and gain in body over time. You can’t really compare the state’s Pinot Noirs with Burgundy’s grands crus, produced in miniscule amounts, but their quality is undeniable. In fact the main thing to remember about Oregon Pinot Noirs is that they’re an excellent alternative to Burgundy wines, especially in the $30–$70 range. n

new arrivals ● Page 71

3 Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007 1. chehalem mountains 2. yamhill-carlton district 3. mcminnville 4. eola-amity hills

50 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

5. dundee hills 6. willamette valley 7. southern oregon 8. columbia gorge

9. columbia valley 10. walla walla valley 11. snake river valley

Chehalem wines

Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir 2006 Carabella

photos: louise savoie.

Argyle in the Willamette Valley sub-appellation of Dundee Hills. The climate in the valley is temperate and damp, especially in winter. Top right, Bernard Lacroute, who hails from Burgundy and has a physics degree, co-owns WillaKenzie in Yamhill.

Middle, Harry Peterson-Nedry, who founded Chehalem Wines in 1990.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

51

DOMAINE DROUHIN

Coming to AmeriCA Drouhin wines are always reliable, whether they’re made in France or the United States. Year after year, the Beaune-based producer’s oregon property turns out some of the state’s best Pinot noirs.

D

omaine Drouhin’s impeccable wines make it one of the Willamette Valley’s leading wineries.

Robert Drouhin, the driving force behind Burgundy’s legendary Maison Joseph Drouhin, planted the property’s first Pinot Noir himself in 1988 in the Dundee Hills appellation, mainly high on hillsides, at between 120 and 240 metres rather than at the usual position lower down the slope. Today 36 hectares out of the Domaine’s total 90 hectares are under vine. Robert’s decision to make wine in Oregon rather than California was a big shot in the arm to the state’s wine industry.

An oenologist by training, Robert’s daughter Véronique, the fourth generation of this illustrious winemaking Beaune family, has overseen vinification from the get-go. With her three brothers busy managing the family’s other enterprises, her father calls her the guardian of the Drouhin palate. That palate was inspired by her grandfather: “Maurice Drouhin was one of the first Burgundians to emphasize the elegance of Burgundy wines,” she says proudly.

Domaine Drouhin, which grows Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, places a great deal of emphasis on viticulture, down to cultivating its own rootstocks and propagating all its own plant materials. At an average 8,250 vines per hectare compared to between 2,000 and 3,500 in Oregon as a whole, its planting density is one of the highest in the state and comparable to that of Burgundy’s premiers crus. “This results in fewer

grapes per vine, which gives us better ripeness” in the cool climate, explains Véronique. “But it can be problematic in hot years and you have to be vigilant.

Luckily we’re sure of high natural acidity, which produces wines that are almost always balanced.”

Indeed, her Pinot Noirs, built to please and fruit-forward but sufficiently structured

to age for a few years, are models of classicism. Two of them are named after her children; power is the hallmark of the Laurène Pinot Noir, complexity that of the Louise cuvée. On our visit, we sample a fine 2001 Louise that confirms the wines have aging potential. Another Drouhin product, a Chardonnay called Arthur, is vinified in the Meursault style. “We’re

only now beginning to fully understand the character of certain sites,” Véronique says. “In the medium term, I’d really like to produce a single-vineyard wine.” n new arrivals ● Page 71

cloudline Pinot noir 2008 Produced in PartnershiP with Véronique drouhin

De Ponte Cellars The French Touch Located barely 10 metres down the hill from Domaine Drouhin in the Dundee Hills appellation, De Ponte Cellars turns out wines that are as lustrous as Drouhin’s but a tad more robust. The winemaker at this small operation, owned by the Baldwin family, is the skilled Isabelle Dutartre. Originally from France, Dutartre has been in Oregon for more than 25 years and long worked with her great friend Véronique Drouhin, but moved over to De Ponte when the Baldwins came calling. “They promised me carte blanche and I jumped at the opportunity,” she recalls. Along with its Pinot Noirs, De Ponte is known for its charmingly fruity white, Melon, sourced from Melon de Bourgogne vines that are more than 30 years old. Melon de Bourgogne,

Photos: louise savoie.

identical to the grape used in France’s Muscadet, is rare in Oregon.

Isabelle Dutartre honed her craft at the Drouhin property in Burgundy before moving to the united States.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

53

BEAUX FRÈRES

RobeRt PaRkeR & Co. S

ignposted by a small bottle hanging beside a road off the highway, the entrance to Beaux Frères isn’t all that easy to find. From there the road climbs to the winery, at which point we’re told that Michael Etzel, the linchpin of the operation, has been held up in Portland. Instead, his assistant winemaker, Grant Coulter, shows us around the property. We climb still higher to get to the nine-hectare Beaux Frères vineyard in the Willamette subappellation of Ribbon Ridge, prized for its minerality.

In the late 1980s, with financial assistance from his brother-in-law, wine guru Robert Parker, Etzel planted the vineyard with Pinot Noir. The winery building went up after Quebecer Robert Roy became a partner in 1991. In 2000 came the acquisition of an adjacent four-hectare parcel, the Upper Terrace.

Interestingly, Parker, a big fan of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, insisted on the site being planted with Grenache, though these days only about one hectare is devoted to Grenache and the rest to the Pinot Noir that’s the source of the Upper Terrace cuvée. “Most of the time we make rosé from the Grenache or else we sell the

the aptly named beaux Frères is co-owned by Robert Parker, the world’s most powerful wine critic, and his brother-in-law Michael etzel. Launched in 1991, the oregon winery now has a third partner, Quebec industrialist Robert Roy. Pictured, winemaker and managing partner etzel (in the driver’s seat) and assistant winemaker Grant Coulter.

grapes,” says Coulter. “It’s not really the right climate for Grenache. We’re thinking seriously of ripping it all out and replanting with Pinot.”

Beaux Frères is also unusual in that many of the vines are ungrafted. A bout of phylloxera forced replanting. The vineyard, cultivated biodynamically after a four-year conversion process that concluded in 2003, produces only red wines. “We had Chardonnay for a while but the site has since been replanted

with Pinot,” says Coulter. Another of their wines, Belles Soeurs, is made from purchased grapes grown on neighbouring parcels.

When we return to the winery to taste the wines, we find Etzel is back from Portland, “from a yoga session actually,” he says airily. “With biodynamics we obtain wines with finer tannins and more elegant fruit. The character of the wines has changed. They’ve gained in definition.” The tasting shows the

wines are indeed a long way from the sort that’s created to win competitions and can lack precision.

Coulter suddenly asks to be excused, saying he must go and tend to the 2009s that are still in barrels. Etzel is meanwhile anxious to check up on the brand new workers in the vineyard. And off they go, leaving us wondering if, with famed critic Parker as a partner, they assume they don’t really need media coverage… n

C h a r d o n n ay C o m e b a C k In the late 1960s, the first winemakers in Oregon planted a lot of Chardonnay, eager to cash in on the fad for those wines. While prolific, the clone they chose, UCD 108 (for University of California at Davis), is of lesser quality. After a few years of so-so results, winemakers pulled up their Chardonnay and replanted with Pinot Gris, now Oregon’s most-planted white grape.

“But there’s renewed interest in Chardonnay,” notes Quebecer Isabelle Meunier, head winemaker for Evening Land’s Oregon wines. On the advice of heralded Meursault vigneron Dominique Lafon, Meunier works with a Dijon clone that’s well suited to Oregon, particularly the Eola-Amity Hills appellation. Evening Land draws two Chardonnays, La Source and Summum, from a small 1.5-hectare strip of land at

Photos: louise savoie.

an elevation of between 105 and 150 metres. The best whites of our entire trip, both present impressive precision and purity, along with exceptionally elegant fruit. The estate’s Pinot Noirs and Gamays are also quality affairs. Production is very limited so these wines are not currently available at the SAQ.

Quebecer Isabelle Meunier supervises vinification of Evening Land’s Oregon wines. She previously worked with Thomas Bachelder, himself a fan of Oregon wines, at Niagara’s Clos Jordanne.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

55

King EstatE

trAVel NOteBOOK rollin soles founded Argyle in 1987 and still oversees production. the sAQ usually has in stock a Pinot Noir and a chardonnay from Argyle. n rhymes with dAmmit: Willamette is pronounced

“will-a-mitt,” with the emphasis on the “a.” Argyle owner Rollin Soles’s exclamation “Willamette, dammit!” makes this easy to remember. n

duNdee: This village is the epicentre of the Wil-

lamette Valley, no more than a 30-minute drive to all four corners of the region. We stayed at the Inn at Red Hills, a boutique hotel with attractive weekday rates King estate launched its Acrobat line, devoted to Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, with the 2008 vintage.

NAturAl APPeAl A

sprawling property of more than 400 hectares that specializes in Pinot Gris, King Estate is among the biggest organic-certified vineyards in the world. It’s the perfect example of sustainable viticulture. Perched on a hillside near Eugene that provides a sweeping view of the valley below, the property features a restaurant that’s one of the best in the state outside Portland. Everything’s made

56 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

from scratch on the premises and comes from local farms.

The succulent charcuterie plate and the cheese selection alone are worth the detour. n

and an excellent restaurant, Farm to Fork, that serves up local produce. n

NicK’s itAliAN cAfé: Not only is the food good

at this institution on McMinnville’s main drag, but local winemakers often eat there with their families.

A once-private back room behind the kitchen that’s now open to the public is still a kind of unofficial clubhouse for vintners. n

thistle: Operated by Montrealer Éric Béchard

and his wife Emily Howard, this tiny, colourfully decorated restaurant in the centre of McMinnville serves up very good food. n Beer tOO: Oregon is also known for its microbrew-

new arrivals ● Page 71

Acrobat Pinot Gris 2008 King estate

eries, of which there are almost 100. A refreshing break after a long day of wine tasting.

OREGON WINE FACTS SOIL

Western Oregon was under the Pacific 12 million years ago so the soil is primarily composed of marine and basalt sediments.

HISTORY

The first vines, Riesling, were planted in Oregon in 1961 by Richard Sommer. Four years later David Lett, Charles Coury and Dick Erath planted Pinot Noir in the northern Willamette Valley. Other refugees from the University of California at Davis followed in their wake. In the beginning, families had to hold down outside jobs to survive. The breakthrough came in 1979 when the 1975 South Block from Lett’s winery Eyrie Vineyards scored 10th in the Pinot Noir category at a wine olympiade in Paris sponsored by the French restaurant guide Gault Millau. A second wave of winemakers, including the Drouhin family, subsequently set up shop in Oregon in the mid-1980s.

APPELLATIONS

VINEYARD AREA

7,800 hectares PRODUCTION

40,000 tonnes of grapes harvested in 2009.

20 million bottles.

GRAPES

Pinot Noir accounts for 4,500 hectares, or more than half the area under vine; Pinot Gris, 1,100 hectares; Chardonnay, 400 hectares; Riesling, 300 hectares; Cabernet Sauvignon, 250 hectares. Also a little Merlot and Syrah.

PRODUCERS

395 wineries, 856 vineyards.

Photos: louise savoie.

CLIMATE

Most of the area under vine is west of the snow-capped Cascades and has a cool and rainy climate, more like Burgundy than California or Washington State. The Pacific Ocean influence reaches the area, making for cool summers and damp autumns. Southern Oregon is warmer.

16 AVA appellations.

West Willamette Valley (1984): 200 wineries, 4,800 vineyard hectares.

Eola-Amity Hills (2006): 30 wineries, 800 hectares.

Yamhill-Carlton District (2004): 30 wineries, 600 hectares.

Chehalem Mountains (2006): 21 wineries, 600 hectares.

Dundee Hills (2004): 25 wineries, 485 hectares.

McMinnville (2005): 14 wineries, 300 hectares.

Ribbon Ridge (2005): 5 wineries, 140 hectares.

East Columbia Valley (1984): 50 wineries, 11,000 hectares (many other wineries in this appellation are on the Washington State side of the border).

Snake River Valley (2007): 22 wineries, 480 hectares.

Walla Walla Valley (1984): 1 winery, 300 hectares (most wineries in this appellation are on the Washington State side of the border).

South Southern Oregon (2004): 17 wineries, 1,200 hectares.

Rogue Valley (1991): 16 wineries, 560 hectares.

Umpqua Valley (1984): 12 wineries, 445 hectares.

Applegate Valley (2001): 6 wineries, 160 hectares.

Red Hill Douglas County (2005): 1 90-hectare vineyard.

North Columbia Gorge (2004): 13 wineries, 140 hectares (another 18 wineries in this appellation are on the Washington State side of the border).

EXPORTS

Mainly to Canada and Japan.

land oF pinot noir

•

Cloudline Pinot Noir 2008: produced in partnership with Véronique Drouhin of the famed Burgundy winemaking family.

Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir 2006: finesse, originality and a profusion of fruit, from Carabella.

3 Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007: sourced by Chehalem Wines from the Willamette Valley’s top terroirs.

• •

For details on these and other new releases, turn to page 69.

ComPiled by marC andré GaGnon

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

57

Washington state

Attitude Meets LAtitude

Many Washington Wines coMbine california-style generosity With french-style structure. then again, Washington’s Wine regions share roughly the saMe latitudes as burgundy, the loire Valley and the northern rhône.

By Patrick Désy

WiNE rEGiONs

U

British columbia pacific ocean

sEattlE 2 1 4 columbia river

3

idaho

5 8

6

7

Oregon 1. puget sound 2. columbia valley 3. wahluke slope

58 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

4. rattle snake hills 5. yakima valley 6. horse heaven hills

7. walla walla valley 8. columbia gorge

nlike in Oregon, vineyards in Washington State can be hundreds of kilometres from wineries and it can take hours of driving to travel between appellations. The climate is also markedly different. Though Seattle is cool and rainy with lush vegetation, most of the state’s wine zones are located on a vast rolling plateau in eastern Washington that has a semi-desert climate.

The area is screened from harsh Pacific weather by two natural barriers, the Olympic Mountains along the coast and the Cascades, which include the permanently snow-capped Mount Baker and the volcanic Mount St. Helens. Bounded to the south by the Columbia River, eastern Washington gets 300 days of sunshine a year and the climate at this relatively northern latitude leans to extremes, with summer temperatures swinging between 35°C during the day and 20°C at night. As in the Okanagan just to the north, winter freezes are a danger to the vines. On the other hand, summer and autumn are almost always dry.

The Yakima Valley.

Photo: louise savoie.

This dry environment also keeps pests at bay. Most vines are planted ungrafted because phylloxera has never invaded here.

Irrigation is crucial to the cultivation of crops.

With barely 200 millimetres of rainfall a year, irrigation is crucial to the cultivation of crops. Long known for its fruit and

other produce, the state is currently the scene of an ongoing political battle over water rights. There is concern, for example, about the impact of irrigation on salmon populations that spawn up the Columbia River.

Washington wine growers generally obtain small and very ripe grapes. The wines are deep-coloured and show lively fruit. It’s said that terroir can be veiled in young wines and takes some

time to find full expression. Many Washington wines have the same kind of generosity as California wines, but also present the structure and elegance of French wines. The state first gained recognition for its Merlots, then its Cabernet Sauvignons, and now Syrah is making a name for itself. However, many different grapes are grown in this enormous and relatively young wine region. n

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

59

BRENNON LEIGHTON OF EFESTÉ

A UniqUe TAlenT a 30-minute drive from J ust Seattle, Woodinville is

Washington’s self-proclaimed wine capital – with nary a vine in sight. In fact it resembles an industrial zone.

Several producers are based in Woodinville because of its proximity to Seattle, and Brennon Leighton, winemaker at Efesté, is one of them.

He’s one of a kind, I’ve been told, and indeed with his tattoo-covered arms he looks more like a biker than a gifted vintner. But beneath the rough exterior is a kindly, dedicated and extremely talented winemaker.

Leighton honed his craft at Chateau Ste. Michelle, the state’s oldest and biggest winery. “I learned a lot there,” he recalls. “It’s one thing to make good wine in small quantities.

It’s another to make it on a large scale.”

I can’t help but ask: So where on earth do the grapes come from?

Leighton laughs aloud at the question. Unusually for a wellknown wine region, Washington’s best producers, such as Andrew Will, Leonetti and Quilceda Creek, built their reputations on wines made from purchased grapes vinified in rented facilities. The new generation of winemakers, many of whom have

Efesté produces just six wines, one of which is the intriguingly named Final-Final.

limited financial resources, has followed suit.

In Leighton’s case, the grapes are grown 200 kilometres to the east and transported in refrigerated trucks to Woodinville for vinification. “It’s a great system because I can potentially buy grapes from the best parcels,” he says, though he adds that he’s just planted 26 hectares at three different sites.

His wines – Cabernet Sauvignons and Syrahs as well as a Sauvignon Blanc and a Riesling – reflect his personality. “As much as possible I use indigenous yeasts,” he explains as we sample from two different

barrels. Sure enough, the more expansive and finer of the two is the one made from natural yeasts. Similarly, the other Efesté wines are generous and concentrated but not jammy, showing appealing freshness and brightness. n

New arrivals ● Page 72

Evergreen Riesling 2009 Columbia ValleY, eFesté

Final-Final 2006 Columbia ValleY, eFesté

Dick Boushey: c u lt i vat i n g Q u a l i t y Baseball cap jammed low over his smoked glasses, at once guarded and candid, Dick Boushey knows Washington like the back of his hand and was one of the first in the state to plant Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Depending on the different soils and elevations (240 to 420 metres) of his 32 hectares in the Yakima Valley, Washington’s oldest appellation, he plants Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese and Syrah. His Syrah grapes in particular ripen nicely in the relatively cool climate. He sells the fruit to more than 20 producers and says demand is constantly rising. He’s selective about his customers. “There’s a kind of tacit agreement that the winemaker has to make a good wine with my grapes or I will cut him off,” he says.

Photos: louise savoie.

New arrivals ● Page 72

Boushey Vineyard 2006 Yakima ValleY, Fidélitas

Of Efesté winemaker Brennon Leighton, who produces an excellent Syrah called Jolie Bouche, Boushey remarks that he may appear a little eccentric, “but, dammit, he does great work!”

Dick Boushey.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

61

HEDGES FAMILY EStAtE

A BreAth of fresh Air A

t the end of a long day of visiting wineries, we’ve been invited to dinner by the winemaking Hedges

Christophe hedges and his wife Maggie, with Christophe’s parents, Anne-Marie Liégeois and thomas hedges, behind them.

family. The sun’s still hot and we’re very tired, but upon our arrival Christophe, son of Thomas Hedges and Anne-Marie

Liégeois, quickly offers to turn on the fountain to cool us off. A big guy who could pass for a rugby player, he speaks to us Quebecers in French, explaining that his mother is from Champagne. “I had no choice but to learn her language,” he adds jokingly.

His parents started out by shipping a Washington wine made from purchased grapes all the way to Sweden. In 1989 they used the profits to purchase a 20-hectare site in Red Mountain, a region known for its Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots.

Indeed, Red Mountain’s American Viticultural Area (AVA) status is due mainly to the tireless efforts of the Hedges.

Part of the Yakima Valley AVA, Red Mountain, at 16 square kilometres, is the smallest appellation in the state. Created in 2001, it’s also probably one of the most admired; its producers include the famed Ciel du Cheval, which makes several coveted wines.

Biodynamic since 2008, Hedges Family Estate is the largest family-run winery in Washington. Volume is fairly high and quality is amazing. Their entry-level CMS cuvées – the red is a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah, the white a ChardonnaySauvignon mix with a touch of Marsanne – come across as much more expensive wines.

And their flagship The Three Vineyards, a Bordeaux blend sourced from all three of the property’s estate vineyards, has a complexity that would put many higherpriced wines to shame. Talk about a breath of fresh air! n

columbia crest

It’s Number ONe! I

nternet lore has it that when Ray Einberger got an email on his cellphone in the autumn of 2009 informing him that one of his products had been named Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator magazine, he thought at first it was a joke. But an hour later, with more than 100 congratulatory messages already clogging his inbox, he faced facts: His Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005 had been crowned number one in the magazine’s famed annual roundup of the world’s 100 most exciting wines.

Einberger has been head winemaker at Columbia Crest since 2002. Founded in 1978 in Horse Heaven Hills near Walla Walla, Columbia Crest turns out about 24 million bottles a year. Indeed, with production focused on entry-level and mid-range wines, the Wine Spectator Top 100 feat of Einberger and his team was all the more remarkable.

ray einberger, head winemaker at Columbia Crest.

In europe, vineyard work is considered just as important as cellar work, but in the New World the spotlight is on winemakers.

photos: louise savoie.

Familiar brand Owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, which accounts for almost half of Washington State’s total wine production, Columbia Crest is a familiar name to Quebecers. At press time, the SAQ had four of its red wines in stock, ranging in price from roughly $15 to $50 – the latter for the Syrah Reserve 2005.

Also at press time, Einberger didn’t know it yet but his Grand Estates Columbia Valley Merlot 2006 ($22.05) performed nicely in our Merlot taste

test for this issue (see page 102).

Okay, so Cellier doesn’t have quite the high profile of Wine Spectator. Still,

the news is bound to please Einberger – and to make him smile, as he’ll probably learn of it via email. n – Marc chapleau

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

63

the Columbia River near Walla Walla.

Walla Walla Valley

A Region ApARt T

he Walla Walla Valley (the name comes from a Native American term meaning “many waters”) is Washington’s most remote wine region. The size of Napa, it lies adjacent to the Oregon border in the southeast and is more than four hours by road from Seattle. It also produces some of the state’s most sought-after wines.

The scenery is striking as you drive the Columbia River Highway into the valley.

There’s a superb view of the Wallula Gap, a canyon formed by lava flows 10 million years ago. And you know you’re really in the Walla Walla Valley after you pass two of the region’s longest-established wineries, Woodward Canyon and L’Ecole No 41.

64 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

Woodward, owned and run by the very friendly and very energetic Rick Small, produces inspiring, intense and admirably age-worthy wines, including the Cabernet Sauvignon-based Artist Series and Old Vines cuvées – among the best reds we taste in our week-long tour. Just next door, Marty Clubb, who looks like a schoolteacher with his small glasses, has converted an old school that was run

by Franciscan monks into an attractive tasting room. Behind it is the winery building where good-quality and instantly pleasurable wines are made. L’Ecole No 41 wines have been available at the SAQ for some time now.

From there we take the newly paved road into the city of Walla Walla, which

appears like an oasis in the middle of a desert and exudes an Old West feel. A number of wineries have tasting rooms in the city, though most are a 20-minute drive away.

We head out into the countryside again to see another local icon, Norm McKibben, founder of Pepper Bridge. A kind of gentleman cowboy with his greying hair and piercing gaze, McKibben explains that when he bought a big wheat field in 1989 he wasn’t really intending to grow grapes there. “In the beginning we planted apples,” he says with a wry smile, “but I had experience at Hogue Cellars and some other wineries.” So he persuaded his partners to plant Cabernet and Merlot, initially on two hectares and then on 16.

Photos: louise savoie.

Top left, Marty Clubb of L’Ecole No 41. Middle, Norm McKibben of Pepper Bridge. Above, the 1915 schoolhouse for which L’Ecole No 41 is named. It stands just west of Walla Walla, where many French Canadians settled in the 1800s.

“It was good timing,” McKibben notes.

“The few producers in the region already had a good reputation and a pressing need for local grapes. Even before our first harvest our roster of clients was made up of the best wineries in the area.” Eventually, with

more than 80 hectares planted, McKibben hired Swiss winemaker Jean-François Pellet to produce his own wines. Elegant and international in style, they are the classic example of what the Walla Walla Valley can offer. n

New arrivals ● Page 72

Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Columbia Valley, l’eCole no 41

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

65

TRAVEL NOTEBOOK WALLA WALLA sWEET ONiONs: the state’s official vegetable. There’s even a Sweet Onion Festival.

I was told you can eat them raw but didn’t dare try.

However, they’re delicious chopped and deep-fried, like mini-fries.

REsTAuRANTs: The Barking Frog, serving up local foods in Woodinville, is a must. Though small, Walla Walla also has several good restaurants, including saffron, specializing in exquisite Mediterranean fare, and the more chic, more expensive Whitehouse-Crawford Restaurant, showcasing excellent regional cuisine.

HOT, HOT, HOT: The sun is incredibly strong. The best way to avoid heat exhaustion in this dry climate is to wear long sleeves and pants. This also helps when going from a furnace-hot vineyard to a

Above, Christophe Baron of Cayuse. Right, Charles smith of K Vintners.

cool cellar.

WiNERy VisiTs: Most wineries are open to the public and there is normally a charge of between $5

The Bad Boys of Walla Walla

C

hristophe Baron (Cayuse) and Charles Smith (K Vintners) are probably the Walla Walla Valley’s most buzz-worthy winemakers – and its most eccentric, with their unconventional styles and approaches to wine. They also produce the region’s most soughtafter wines.

Originally from Champagne, Baron was the first to plant vines in the far south of the valley on the Oregon border, where his “wine studio,” as he prefers to call it, is located. Fully biodynamic, his Cayuse parcel is one of the best in the whole valley. The name comes from the stones – cailloux in French – that cover the soil in an

66 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

ancient riverbed and put one in mind of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape terroir.

Baron’s wines include dazzling yet refined Syrahs. Alas, production is limited and the wines hard to come by, although they are available in Quebec periodically.

As to Smith, the “wild man” behind K Vintners, his approach seems more casual, which may explain some of the criticism levelled at him. He produces a line of decent wines that’s widely distributed and backed by a skilful communications strategy. His artisanal wines, built around energetic Syrahs, are a more accurate reflection of the winery’s quality. n p.d.

and $15 for tasting the wines – often refunded if you buy something.

WASHINGTON STATE WINE FACTS VINEYARD AREA

12,950 hectares, making it the second-largest wine region in the United States after California (where more than 200,000 hectares are under vine).

PRODUCTION

150,000 tonnes of grapes harvested in 2009. 102 million bottles (California turns out three billion bottles a year).

54% whites, 46% reds.

Production grew tenfold between 1981 and 2006.

GRAPES

Chardonnay 21%, Riesling 21%, Cabernet Sauvignon 18%, Merlot 16%, Syrah 6%. Others: Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon, Gewürztraminer, Sémillon, Malbec and so on.

PRODUCERS

682 wineries CLIMATE

A continental climate east of the Cascades, with hot summers, cold winters and little rainfall. Hot days and cool nights.

Red Mountain (2001): 15 wineries, 344 hectares; Cabernets, Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Malbec.

Columbia Gorge (2004): 18 wineries, 134 hectares (another 13 wineries in this appellation are on the Oregon side of the border); diverse grapes, including Rhône and Italian varieties.

Horse Heaven Hills (2005): 31 wineries, 3,480 hectares; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah and 37 others.

Wahluke Slope (2006): 38 wineries, 2,266 hectares; Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon.

Rattlesnake Hills (2006): 17 wineries, 567 hectares; Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot.

Snipes Mountain (2009): 6 wineries, 270 hectares; 30 grape varieties.

Lake Chelan (2009): 16 wineries, 104 hectares; Syrah, Merlot, Malbec.

ComPiled by marC andré GaGnon

SOIL

In this semi-desert region, soils are sandy and have good drainage.

HISTORY

The Hudson’s Bay Company planted the first vines in 1825 at Fort Vancouver, Washington. Early settlers from France, Germany and Italy began growing grapes in the Puget Sound area in 1854 and the Walla Walla Valley in 1860.

The introduction of irrigation in1903 led to the spread of wine-growing to eastern Washington. Prohibition in the 1920s curbed the big operations but paradoxically sparked increased interest in artisanal production. By 1938 there were 42 vineyards in the state. Large-scale commercial production began in the early 1960s. Oenologist André Tchelistcheff helped steer leading winery Chateau Ste. Michelle into the world of modern winemaking.

Photos: louise savoie.

APPELLATIONS

11 AVA appellations.

Many producers purchase grapes from several regions.

Columbia Valley (1984): biggest appellation. Contains within its borders the AVAs of Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Wahluke Slope, Rattlesnake Hills, Horse Heaven Hills, Snipes Mountain and Lake Chelan.

Yakima Valley (1983): 65 wineries, 5,666 hectares; mainly Chardonnay followed by Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Walla Walla Valley (1983): The state’s most renowned AVA, near the Oregon border; 90 wineries, 647 hectares; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Syrah.

Puget Sound (1995): Near Seattle, 90 wineries, 32 hectares; Madeleine Angevine, Siegerebbe and MullerThurgau, and other grapes purchased from other regions.

WASHINGTON: POTENTIAL UNLOcKED • River’s Red 2007: Three Rivers Winery showcases seven grapes from the Columbia Valley.

• Saggi 2006: a New World Supertuscan from Long Shadows.

• Traditions Merlot 2007: the kind of Merlot we love, generous and structured, from Milbrandt Vineyards.

FOR DETAILS ON THESE AND OTHER NEW RELEASES, SEE NExT SEcTION.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

67

YOU’VE INHERITED A FORTUNE. WE’VE INHERITED 150 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE. National Bank Financial Group has created a new business unit dedicated to providing unparalleled service to affluent individuals and families. By gathering together a multi-disciplinary team, Private Wealth 1859 offers fully integrated and global solutions, effectively supported by all sectors of National Bank Financial Group, the 3,000 advisors in its parent's bank branch network and its full service brokerage subsidiary. > > > > > >

Portfolio Management Private Banking Financial and Estate Planning Trust Services Insurance Specialized Services

1-877-871-1859

nbc.ca/pw1859

Private Wealth 1859 is a trademark used under license by National Bank Financial and National Bank of Canada.

STATES Of gRACE: OREgON AND WASHiNgTON ■ fiVE WiNES fOR fiVE RECiPES ■ WHAT TO qUAff WiTH CONfiT ■ WiNES fOR CELLARiNg ■ fOUR ViNTAgES Of A MASi AMARONE ■

■

37 NEW PRODUCTS RELEASE DATE:

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4

Big BOTTLES fOR THE HOLiDAYS

.

Contributors new ArrivAls

A FeAst oF FlAvours

In recent years, Oregon and Washington have been producing quality wines that are generous yet often possess a very European elegance too. Along with the requisite Pinot Noirs, Merlots and Cabernet Sauvignons, more and more of Oregon’s Pinot Gris wines and Washington’s Syrahs are garnering kudos from connoisseurs. n Winter will soon arrive, and that means comfort foods. Our selection here includes wines that complement confit (An Easy Epicurean Delight), as well as gourmet wines with plenty of personality.

Also, look for our recommended five wines for five recipes; from Italy, Chile, Germany and France, each wine pairs perfectly with one of the five recipes created for us by five well-known chefs (Symbiotic Symphonies). n As usual we have wines from exceptional vintages for cellaring, as well as a vertical, in this case of a superb Amarone by famed Italian producer Masi. n Check out our big bottles which are very reasonably priced and very suitable for those big holiday gatherings. n

TASTing coMMiTTee

the team of experts, led by Julie Perreault, responsible for the tasting notes:

Julie Perreault

Les Connaisseurs instructor, on staff at the Galeries Joliette SAQ Sélection store.

Her favourite: La Spinetta’s Pin 2007.

Mario Chaput

luc soucy

simon Gaudreault-rouleau

Les Connaisseurs technical writer and instructor.

His favourite: the Langhe Nebbiolo Vigneto Starderi 2007 from La Spinetta.

70 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

icon legend

Diane lesage

Information agent with the SAQ Les Connaisseurs wine-appreciation courses.

Her favourite: the XL Malbec 2006 from Château Lacapelle Cabanac.

Accredited wine advisor at the Chemin de Chambly SAQ Sélection outlet.

His favourite: Les Hauts de Smith 2005 from Château Smith Haut Lafitte.

All products in the CELLIER New Arrivals section are available in limited quantities at SAQ Sélection outlets and SAQ.com.

white wine

red wine

AgIng PotEntIAL*

Les Connaisseurs instructor and accredited wine advisor at the Des Récollets SAQ Sélection outlet in Trois-Rivières.

His favourite: Masi’s Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron 1995.

Favourite

drink now drink now through the year indicated hold until the year indicated

*The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule. n

sources cited:

GR: Gambero Rosso ( , , , , red glasses for superior wines) RVF : La revue du vin de France (wine = out of 20 / winery = ★, ★★,★★★) WA: Wine Advocate, robert Parker (out of 100) WS: Wine Spectator (out of 100)

Cellier new arrivals From Thursday, november 4

oregon

also see arTiCle on PaGe 48.

A burGundy stAte of Mind Like burgundy, with which it has much in common, oregon makes exceLLent Pinot noirs. in white wines, it’s best known for Pinot gris.

Organic Pinot Gris

Refined Pinot

Though Oregon is associated mainly with Pinot Noir, its cousin Pinot Gris can also do well there, as evidenced by this organically produced wine.

The nose is delicate and the mouth agreeably complex, presenting flavours of pear, peach and lime.

Balanced and well structured, with enchanting freshness in the finish. J.P. ws 89

Created by geologist and winemaker Mike Hallock and sourced from a volcanic terroir, this Oregon Pinot Noir has a surprising nose of fresh strawberry, raw beef and dust. It’s fresh and generous on the palate, with a certain vinosity in the finish and fabulous flavours of ripe red fruit. Serve slightly chilled with duck or veal. M.C. wa 86 | ws 85

Drouhin Signature Dreyfus Ashby, purveyor of fine wines, has a long-standing association with the Drouhin family, so it was natural for it to partner with Véronique Drouhin of Oregon’s Domaine Drouhin to create her own wines under the label Cloudline. The wine’s classic Pinot Noir character is signalled by its open nose of cherry and violet laced with an animal suggestion. Mouth-watering with roasted herbed chicken. S.G.R. 2016

UnItEd StatES Cloudline Pinot noir 2008, willamette valley $19.95, 11334161, 750 mL Photos: Louise savoie (P. 69 et ÉcoLe no 41); jean trembLay (tasting committee); andrÉ doyon (bottLes).

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 3000

Exemplary Typicity Capricious Pinot Noir is particularly happy in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Add to that Chehalem’s 30-plus years of experience, and you get a grape-terroir marriage of special finesse. Drawn from three selected parcels, including the excellent Stoller, this 2007 displays exemplary typicity yet is very approachable and very charming too. J.P. wa 89 | ws 89 2014

2014

UnItEd StatES Acrobat oregon Pinot Gris 2008, King estate

UnItEd StatES Chehalem Mountains Pinot noir 2006, willamette valley, Carabella

$17.95, 11333767, 750 mL

$27.65, 11333791, 750 mL

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

UnItEd StatES 3 vineyard Pinot noir 2007, willamette valley, Chehalem wines $32.75, 11333783, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

71

From Thursday, november 4 Cellier new arrivals

Washington

AttitudE MEEtS LAtitudE Washington’s varied climate yields generous yet elegant Wines. While the state first gained recognition for its merlots and cabernet sauvignons, it’s noW producing many other noteWorthy Wines too.

Fresh From the West

Top of the Class

Finest Yakima Grapes

Washington’s variable climate can deliver both the heat that Rhône grapes need and the coolness that produces refreshing Rieslings like this one. Golden coloured with a lemony and faintly mineral nose, it has lingering ripe flavours of peach and tangerine, along with good acidity and a mineral finish. M.C.

Originally a schoolhouse, L’Ecole No 41 was built in 1915 in Washington’s historic Frenchtown district west of Walla Walla, where many French Canadians settled in the 1800s.

This is a Cabernet Sauvignon of great typicity, showing rich fruit (blackcurrant, prune and black cherry) and aromas of leather, dark chocolate and spices. Elegant tannins on the palate. D.L. wa 89 | ws 86

Fidélitas owner and seasoned oenologist Charlie Hoppes gets his grapes from Washington’s top growers, in this case the Boushey vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Meticulously crafted and aged for 22 months in new oak, this limited-production cuvée combines charm (cherry, vanilla, coffee and a hint of mint) with structure and satisfying freshness.

Serve with steak and fries. S.G.R. wa 93 | ws 91

UnItEd StatES Evergreen Riesling 2009, Columbia Valley, Efesté

UnItEd StatES L’Ecole No 41 Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Columbia Valley

UnItEd StatES Boushey Vineyard 2006, Yakima Valley, Fidélitas

$21.50, 11334760, 750 mL

$37.75, 10707093, 750 mL

$58.75, 11335421, 750 mL

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

72 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

2012

2016

Cellier new arrivals From Thursday, november 4 also see arTiCle on PaGe 58.

Attractive Portrait

Favourable Terroir

Combining seven grapes (Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Tempranillo) from different vineyards, River’s Red paints a fetching portrait of what Washington can offer. An intense ruby colour, with charming aromas of coffee and plum, it presents seductive tannins in a delightfully expressive mouth. A very nice find. L.S. ws 87

The Milbrandt brothers demonstrate with this simple, smooth wine how favourable a terroir Washington State is for Merlot. Conveying lovely cherry and roasted notes, it’s a balanced affair with silky tannins and a pleasant finish. Meat in a berry sauce would be perfect with it. M.C.

American Supertuscan Long Shadows teams up with respected Tuscan oenologists Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari to produce this blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Inspired by the Supertuscans and sourced from carefully selected Washington terroirs, it’s a dark wine with aromas of blackberry, candied plum and spices. The mouth is nicely balanced and the finish elegantly accented with fine spice notes. M.C. wa 92 | ws 89 2015

UnItEd StatES Saggi 2006, Columbia Valley, Long Shadows $45.25, 11335527, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

Unfiltered Quality

Photos: André doyon (bottles).

Vinified naturally by Washington producer Efesté, with no filtering or fining, this complex blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (56%), Syrah (42%) and Mourvèdre (2%) delivers a whole spectrum of aromas, from plum and tomato plant to cherry, anise and clove. Nice acidity, good complexity and a long finish in the mouth.

Uncork with red meat. D.L. wa 90 | ws 88

2015

2012

UnItEd StatES River’s Red 2007, Columbia Valley, Three Rivers Winery

UnItEd StatES Traditions Merlot 2007, Columbia Valley, Milbrandt Vineyards

$19.90, 11336466, 750 mL

$21.30, 11335439, 750 mL

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

UnItEd StatES Final-Final 2006, Columbia Valley, Efesté

2012

$31.25, 11334962, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

73

From Thursday, november 4 Cellier new arrivals also see arTiCle and exClusive reCipes on paGe 35.

Five Wines for Five Recipes

SyMBiOtiC SyMPHONieS We selected these Wines based on the stated preferences of our five guest chefs. each chef then created a special recipe to go With his or her Wine, exclusively for cellier.

An Andes Quartet MontGras, one of the Colchagua region’s most reliable producers, created the Quatro series in order to showcase the extra complexity delivered by the art of blending. Here the Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Carmenère (20%), Malbec (20%) and Syrah (15%) combine into a concerto of heady flavours that call to mind blackcurrant, cherry, leather and coffee. D.L. ws 88

Matchless Mosel

Noble Beaune

Some of the finest Rieslings in the world come from the steep hills around the Mosel River. This beguiling one emits characteristic lemon accents mixed with floral and mineral notes. The mouth has the kind of balance that’s so particular to the best German whites, featuring residual sugar and lively acidity that together deliver superb freshness. S.G.R.

The name of this premier cru harks back to when the site was the property of the seigneur (dominus in Latin) of Savigny. Classic, forthright and conveying an air of nobility, it has aromas of underbrush and red-berry fruit, and a fresh, elegant mouth dominated by fruit.

Enjoyable now, but could also be laid down for another few years. L.S.

Classic Nebbiolo Head winemaker Giorgio Rivetti sources this wine from young vines in the Starderi vineyard (where the older plants are used to make his famed Barbaresco Starderi). It’s a full-on typical Nebbiolo, presenting an open nose of cherry, almond and licorice accents and a mouth with lively acidity and a tannic structure that will settle down with time in the cellar. S.G.R. wa 91 2018

ItaLy Langhe Nebbiolo Vigneto Starderi 2007, Langhe DOC, La Spinetta $28.90, 11337979, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

Natural Harmony A product of the Grand Cru Hengst appellation’s particularly complex soils, this Pinot Gris combines power and roundness with remarkable aromatic complexity. Organically cultivated and vinified as naturally as possible, it’s flavourful and generous, with good length and a nice hint of honey. It often gets high scores in wine magazines and guides. D.L. rvf 18.5 - Winery ★★★ 2013

ChILE Quatro 2008, Colchagua Valley, MontGras

GERmany Mönchhof Riesling 2008, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Qualitätswein, Volker Besch Wine

FRanCE Savigny-Dominode Premier Cru 2006, Domaine Chanson Père & Fils

$17.95, 11331737, 750 mL

$17.45, 11334920, 750 mL

$37.50, 11338824, 750 mL

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 2400

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

74 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

2015

FRanCE Grand Cru Hengst Pinot Gris 2008, Domaine Albert Mann $34.00, 11343711, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

Cellier new arrivals From Thursday, november 4

GOURMET WINES A selection of wines with Assertive personAlities. the new world reds will go nicely with slow-simmered dishes, while the more-Astringent itAliAn offerings will mAke A good mAtch for grilled meAt.

Heights of Barolo

Atypical Argentinian

Grilled or roasted game would go particularly well with this wine, drawn from several higher-altitude sites.

Displaying garnet reflections, it has a fine, complex nose of balsam mingled with spices, blond tobacco, brandied cherries and tar. Balanced and mineral, the mouth is equally complex and accented with tight tannins. L.S.

An unusual combination of Shiraz, Tannat, Malbec and Merlot creates a dark red wine with purplish reflections and a rich nose of cedar, spices and dark fruit. The cedar reappears in the mouth, along with notes of clove.

Remarkably balanced, with fairly tight tannins, it should be uncorked with flavourful meats such as leg of lamb Provençal. L.S. wa 88 | ws 89

wa 91 | ws 87 | GR

Italian Finesse The Benanti family procures this singularly elegant wine from old vines planted more than 700 metres up the slopes of Italy’s Mount Etna.

A blend of the local grapes Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, it releases scents of anise, mushroom and cocoa, with red fruit on the finish. Wonderful with slowcooked dishes. S.G.R. wa 88 | ws 86 | GR 2018

ItALy Rosso di Verzella 2006, Etna DOC, Benanti $20.65, 11348459, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

Barossa Shiraz

photos: André doyon (bottles).

Elderton sources its solid, warming and typically Barossa-style Shirazes from various vineyards, including some that are more than a century old. Modern in style, this one has aromas of jam, dried fruit and vanilla and is just the thing if you like assertively flavoured New World wines. Because it’s so rich, it would pair well with dried-fruit tajine or rabbit with prunes. D.L. wa 91 2013

2017

2016

ItALy Albe 2005, Barolo DOCG, G.D. Vajra

ARgEntInA Grand Callia 2006, Valle de Tulum, Bodegas Callia

$35.25, 11337944, 750 mL

$35.25, 11331796, 750 mL

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 900

AustRALIA Shiraz 2006, Barossa Valley, Elderton $25.70, 11332836, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1800

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

75

From Thursday, november 4 Cellier new arrivals

confit

also see arTiCle on PaGe 96.

an easy epicurean delight A gourmet treAt thAt’s simple to mAke At home, duck confit is wonderful with robust, relAtively tAnnic wines. from mAlbec to cAbernet sAuvignon to grenAche, we hAve An embArrAssment of choices.

Modern Ways

Smooth Power

The family that owns this estate is descended from the woman depicted in Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Other ancestors worked with Machiavelli way back when, but this Bolgheri property is a recent acquisition and is open to experimentation.

Ocra – “the blood of the earth” – is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot that releases scents of wild fruit, incense and cedar. Decant for better expression. J.P. ws 90

Sourced from a biodynamic vineyard and carefully crafted, this moderately woody wine delivers powerful Malbec aromas of blackcurrant, leather, spices and menthol. The rich mouth has good acidity, blackcurrant, spice and plum flavours, smooth tannins and a long, agreeable finish. M.C.

Venetian Generosity In recent years, historic Veneto winery Guerrieri Rizzardi has been hailed for rising quality, as in this generous ripasso wine (re-fermented on the unpressed skins of Amarone wines) with notes of black cherry, clove, leather and torrefaction. Twelve months of aging has given it inviting roundness. D.L. GR

Catalonian Contrasts Grenache fruitiness and Carignan minerality, half young vines and half old vines: This is a cuvée of contrasts. The still-compact nose carries a suggestion of cherry and leather, both of which are expressed more clearly in the mouth, especially the cherry. Balanced and medium-bodied, with smooth tannins. M.C. 2015

SpaIn giné giné 2007, priorat dOc, Buil & giné $18.40, 11337910, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 2400

A True “Black Wine” This organic producer grows Malbec on the highest hillsides – the best in the appellation. Its XL cuvée is a very woody affair that lives up to Cahors’ vin noir reputation. It has dried dark fruit, sweet spices and anise on the nose. The meaty mouth shows a wellintegrated wood framework and still-young tannins. Obvious aging potential, yes, but best to hold off for a bit. J.P. 2013

ItaLy Ocra 2007, Bolgheri dOc, guicciardini strozzi

aRgEntIna luigi Bosca Malbec 2007, Mendoza, Bodega luigi Bosca - Familia arizu

ItaLy pojega ripasso 2007, Valpolicella classico superiore dOc, guerrieri rizzardi

$21.15, 11338023, 750 mL

$20.75, 11332941, 750 mL

$22.65, 11331681, 750 mL

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

2015

2012

76 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

2014

FRanCE Malbec Xl 2006, cahors aOc, château lacapelle cabanac $25.20, 11333505, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

Cellier new arrivals From Thursday, november 4

FOR CELLARING Good thinGs come to those who wait, such as increased depth of flavour and aroma in these aGe-worthy european reds – althouGh if you really can’t wait, you could also uncork them now.

A 2005 Beauty

Piedmont Richness

The renowned Château Smith Haut Lafitte crafts its second wine with the same care it applies to producing its first label. From the excellent 2005 vintage, this is a seductive, dark ruby Bordeaux with an elegant nose of cherry, plum and leather. The ripe mouth has fine tannins and opens with fruity flavours that move into animal notes before dissolving into a harmonious and balanced finish. M.C. ws 90

Sporting the nickname of winery founder Giuseppe Rivetti, this nicely structured wine is a rich and woody interpretation of the Nebbiolo (65%) and Barbera (35%) grapes. The nose is redolent with blackberries, blackcurrants and cherries, while the mouth features minty notes as well as new oak in the finish. Would go well with barbecued fare. D.L. wa 92 | ws 87 | GR

Palacios in Priorat Born in Rioja, Alvaro Palacios has become a star winemaker in Bierzo and Priorat. This superb blend of Carignan, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon is drawn from organically cultivated vines in Priorat. Masterfully vinified, it exhibits the exceptional balance and freshness of the 2007 vintage.

Red fruit, cut flowers and sandalwood on the nose, good tannic structure in the mouth. A great companion to game – now or in a few years. D.L. 2013

SpaIn Gratallops 2007, Priorat DOC, Alvaro Palacios $49.75, 11337936, 750 mL

photos: andré doyon (bottles); eleanor bentall/corbis (cellar); debi treloar/stockfood (confit).

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

Luxe Toro Launched in 1998 by the LVMH group, Numanthia Termes’ wines demonstrate why there is growing praise for the Toro appellation. This one is sourced from old Tinta de Toro vines, the local name for Tempranillo. Generous aromas of dark fruit, licorice and herbs hint at good aging potential. A few years in the cellar will calm the firm tannins and add more elegance. J.P. wa 94+ | ws 92 2016

2018

FRanCE Les Hauts de Smith 2005, Pessac-Léognan AOC, Château Smith Haut Lafitte

ItaLy Pin 2007, Monferrato DOC, La Spinetta

$38.25, 10965359, 750 mL

$49.75, 11337987, 750 mL

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

2015

SpaIn Numanthia 2007, Toro DO, Bodega Numanthia Termes $59.00, 00853275, 750 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 1200

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

77

From Thursday, november 4 Cellier new arrivals

BIG BOTTLES Sure to impreSS, overSized bottleS are juSt the thing for all thoSe large gatheringS during the holidayS, and beyond.

Torres Exuberance

Languedoc Sunshine

Sure Satisfaction

In recent years, well-known Catalonian producer Torres has increased its output of wines from other regions of Spain. Among them is this charming 100% Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero. A generous nose of cherry and blackberry accented with wood notes leads into cooked-cherry flavours in the mouth. Excellent with Chinese fondue or a roast. M.C.

This generous Syrah-dominated blend delivers a nice measure of red fruit, vanilla, violet and spices that reflect both its sunny terroir and a certain amount of contact with oak. The mouth is harmonious, with round tannins. A natural match with leg of lamb or duck breast. D.L.

Cortes de Cima consistently produces wines with an excellent quality-price ratio, Chaminé being one of them. It imparts aromas of raspberry jam and violet set off by subtle animal notes, while the mouth is all about flavourful freshness and soft tannins. A festive wine that’s available in two sizes that are perfect for parties. Try it with grilled pork. J.P.

1.5 L

1.5 L

2013

1.5 L and 3L

PoRtugaL Chaminé 2009, Vinho Tinto Regional Alentejano, Cortes de Cima

SPaIn Celeste Crianza 2007, Ribera del Duero DO, Miguel Torres

FRanCE Devois des Agneaux d’Aumelas 2008, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc, Jeanjean

$39.75, 11326946, 1500 mL

$38.00, 11164238, 1500 mL

$54.50, 11326516, 3000 mL

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 900

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 300

78 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

$27.30, 11327228, 1500 mL nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 900

Cellier new arrivals From Thursday, november 4

vertical

veneto gems Still owned by direct deScendantS of the poet dante, Serego alighieri produceS wineS in collaboration with MaSi, and the brand iS a jewel in the crown of that italian producer. Vaio arMaron exeMplifieS how aMaroneS age with incoMparable elegance.

Perfect Maturity Tinged with orangey reflections, the 1995 is still intense and has complex aromas ranging from dates and almond to balsam and meat. The mouth presents ripe tannins and impressive flavours of oregano and other dried herbs segueing into a long, elegant finish.

Serve with aged Comté cheese and walnuts. L.S. ws 90

Rich and Evolved

Potential Confirmed

Balsamic aromas and scents of charcuterie, raisins and figs elegantly convey the evolution of this wine from the feted 1997 vintage.

Rich and ripe tannins in the mouth, yet the fruit is still ripe too, mingled with herb and charcuterie flavours.

Rabbit with prunes would underscore its consummate character. L.S. ws 92

The garnet colour indicates that the 2000 is starting to open out and display its potential. Impressions of stone fruit, fresh almonds and spices on the nose recur in the rich and fleshy mouth, along with appealing meat accents. Should you open it now, it absolutely requires decanting. For a food pairing, think duck breast with sour-cherry sauce. L.S. wa 89 | ws 91

1995

1997

Cellaring Ahead Don’t be in a hurry with this dark ruby wine, which has dried fruit, spices and tobacco on the nose. The tannins are rich and imposing but the mouth is balanced by good acidity. Flavours of stone fruit mingle with almonds, pecans and fresh meat. If you’re too impatient to wait, pair with game. L.S. wa 91 | ws 91

2000

2001

Terms oF sale Products in CELLIER’s New Arrivals section are available in limited quantities at SAQ Sélection outlets in the “CELLIER Nouvel Arrivage” area, and online at SAQ. com. Prices are subject to change without notice.

Because products are available in limited quantities, the SAQ reserves the right to restrict the number of bottles purchased by each customer.

No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of the products.

photoS: andré doyon (bottleS); frank tSchakert /alaMy (corkS).

Sales to permit-holders are allowed. Certain conditions apply. Details in stores.

Not all products are available at all participating locations. To check the availability of a product and find out where you can purchase it, use the search function on SAQ.com or call a store. For SAQ Sélection store addresses and phone numbers, see page 114.

Questions or comments? Please contact SAQ Customer Service at: Montreal: 514-254-2020 Elsewhere: 1-866-873-2020

2017

2018

2023

ItaLy serego Alighieri vaio Armaron 1995, Amarone della valpolicella-Classico DoC, masi

ItaLy serego Alighieri vaio Armaron 1997, Amarone della valpolicella-Classico DoC, masi

ItaLy serego Alighieri vaio Armaron 2000, Amarone della valpolicella-Classico DoC, masi

ItaLy serego Alighieri vaio Armaron 2001, Amarone della valpolicella-Classico DoC, masi

$122.75, 11232704, 750 mL

$126.00, 11232931, 750 mL

$82.25, 00462812, 750 mL

$70.75, 11232966, 750 mL

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 600

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

79

west coast cool MAkINg wINE IN wASHINgTON AND OREgON IS A RELATIVELY LAID-BAck AffAIR cOMPARED TO, SAY, IN fRANcE, wHERE PRODUcERS ARE cONSTRAINED

BY MANY MORE REgULATIONS AND TRADITIONS.

F

reshness, freshness, freshness!

The great asset of Washington and Oregon wines, the factor that makes all the difference, is their refreshing touch. It comes from the climate, of course, but also from the fact that the savvy winemakers in both states have surrounded themselves with extremely skilled people.

Evening Land’s superb Pinots, for example, are produced in consultation with Dominique Lafon, the renowned Burgundy-based oenologist and vigneron.

And admirable Cabernet Sauvignonand Merlot-based wines from much of the west coast also tend to show a tasty fusion of finesse and richness. n

80 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

SAQ SigNAture AvAilAble from ThursdAy

NoveMBer 11

PHOTOS: LOUISE SAVOIE (TREES); ANDRÉ DOYON (BOTTLES).

tasting notes by Jacques Leclaire, a wine advisor at the SAQ Signature store in Montreal.

Temperate Terroirs

Burgundy Approach

Widely Acclaimed

A Wine of Precision

Specializing in Burgundy grapes, Evening Land sources this excellent 2008 Pinot Noir from Oregon’s very temperate terroirs.

Vinified by Quebecer Isabelle Meunier with input from highly regarded French oenologist Dominique Lafon, it’s a silky wine that shows great purity and releases refreshing aromas of strawberry and raspberry capped with elegant spice notes.

Drawn from a 12-year-old vineyard with volcanic soil, this Pinot Noir was produced in the traditional Burgundy fashion: A portion of the grapes was fermented naturally in whole bunches and the wine was aged in Burgundy barrels. The result is great aromatic complexity (ripe fruit, undergrowth and blond tobacco), rich flavours and remarkable structure that will emerge fully as the years pass. wa 92 | ws 92

Washington’s illustrious and historic Chateau Ste. Michelle delivers a balanced, structured and acclaimed Meritage that has garnered scores of 90-plus from Robert Parker, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. Made primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon (58%) and barrel-aged for 20 months, it expresses notes of blackcurrant, cranberry and camphor in a solid framework. wa 91

Founded in 1981, Woodward Canyon produces high-end wines, often from old vines. This one, for example, is drawn mainly from the Champoux vineyard, planted in the 1970s. From an exceptional vintage, it’s a precise, open and structured Cabernet with aromas of ripe dark fruit plus a touch of spicy wood and chocolate. wa 93 | ws 88

UnItEd StatES Pinot Noir 2008, Willamette valley, oregon, evening Land

2016

2016

2012

2017

UnItEd StatES eileen vineyard Pinot Noir 2006, eola-Amity Hills, Willamette valley, oregon, Cristom vineyards

UnItEd StatES Artist Series Meritage 2006, Columbia valley, Washington, Chateau Ste. Michelle

UnItEd StatES Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Walla Walla valley, Washington, Woodward Canyon

$39.25, 11349371, 750 mL

$57.25, 11316490, 750 mL

$73.50, 11316502, 750 mL

$49.75, 10708272, 750 mL

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 240

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 360

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 300

nUMBer OF BOttLeS: 180

No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of products. Limited quantities. Sales to permit holders are allowed. Some conditions apply. Details in stores. Ask about our free delivery service throughout Quebec (delivery to a single address per order). n SAQ Signature Montreal: Complexe Les Ailes, 677 Ste. Catherine St. West, 514-282-9445 or 1-888-454-7007, saqsignature@saq.qc.ca n SAQ Signature Quebec: Complexe Jules-Dallaire, 2828 Laurier Blvd., Sainte-Foy-Sillery, 418-692-1182 or 1-866-333-0253, saqsignaturequebec@saq.qc.ca

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

81

p i H and

e r u t l u C p Ho

n i p s w e n e l o h w

c a n g Co

a

spirits The “king of brandies” was in The dumps. Then busTa and his boyz rode To The rescue. how rap arTisTs revived The cognac indusTry.

By Véronique riVest

I

n the 1990s consumption of alcohol dropped sharply in the wake of stricter drunk-driving laws and an increased emphasis on the benefits of moderation. Spirits, painted as extra bad because of their potency, were especially hard hit. Ordering a brandy at the end of a restaurant meal fast went from urbane to uncool.

But sometimes good things come out of crises – in this case, a “drink less, but drink better” mindset. Spirits slowly reacquired cachet upon the introduction of high-end products. As with wine, carefully crafted artisanal spirits that evoke a place, a tradition or simply a new method triggered a renewal in consumer interest. Single malt Scotches became enormously successful, along with smallbatch bourbons and other whiskeys, pure-agave tequilas, flavoured gins and “pure” vodkas.

But what of cognac, the so-called king of brandies, once considered the afterdinner drink of choice? Did it manage to reinvent itself too?

In the late 1990s whiskey’s rising popularity cut deeply into cognac’s market share. Hundreds upon hundreds of grapevines were ripped up in Charente, and stockpiles of cognac accumulated in the chais throughout the Cognac region.

ThaT’s a Rap! Enter Busta Rhymes. And if you don’t know that name, maybe you’re familiar with Snoop Dogg or Jay-Z? They’re all famous rappers – and some would say that cognac owes its very survival to Busta and company. In the early 2000s one rap and hip hop tune after another, including Busta’s 2002 hit single Pass the Courvoisier, celebrated cognac, sparking a boom in sales, particularly among young, urban African-Americans. Dubbed “yak” or “the nyak,” cognac became as ingrained in hip hop culture as sex, drugs and guns.

Cognac had been a favourite among affluent African-Americans since the 1970s, but now rappers were giving it unprecedented publicity.

As a result, the United States has become the world’s biggest consumer of cognac. Nearly 43 million bottles of the stuff were sold there in 2009, versus 17 million in Singapore, the secondbiggest consumer.

For years cognac advertising projected an elitist image. Hennessy was the first brand to break away from that and promote cognac as something that could be mixed with water or used in cocktails.

A decade ago it introduced Pure White, a young cognac meant to be used in cocktails. But the firm may have been a wee bit ahead of its time: Pure White didn’t do as well as hoped. Besides, it looked like a bottle of whiskey rather than a bottle of cognac. In the years that followed, a decisive factor in cognac’s success in the U.S. was producers’ willingness to get on board with the idea that cognac could be used in mixed drinks. Now even the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac’s ad campaigns milk the cocktail angle to increase sales. Hennessy recently rolled

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

83

A Whole NeW SpiN continued >> out Hennessy Black, also designed to be mixed into cocktails but clearly a cognac and clearly with a precise target market: www.hennessyblack.com is all techno music, video clips and nightclub mood.

RetuRn to Roots Appalled at the idea of mixing anything with your cognac? Cyrille Gautier-Auriol, the brand ambassador for Hennessy, insists it’s not a new concept. “Actually, it’s a return to our roots. In the beginning, cognac was almost always consumed mixed with water.” For example, in the 17th century in Holland and the Baltic countries, then the main markets for brandewijn (the Dutch word that gave us the term “brandy”), cognac was habitually drunk mixed with water. Many of the early American cocktails that are now made with other spirits originally featured cognac. The Sazerac, now containing rye whiskey, and the mint julep, now bourbon-based, are two examples.

Even today, it turns out, 70 percent of the cognac consumed around the world is drunk mixed rather than neat.

In Ireland, where the Hennessy family hailed from, cognac and ginger ale reigns supreme. “Hennessy sells better than Jameson in Ireland,” says Gautier-Auriol.

“At the moment cognac’s major challenge is to ensure consumers aren’t torn between drinking it neat or mixed.”

84 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

Cognac is consumed in different ways from country to country and what’s seen as heresy in some places is entirely acceptable in others. In the United States it’s served mainly in cocktails.

In Scandinavia they prefer it neat, as a

“in the beginning cognac was almost always consumed mixed with water,” says hennessy brand ambassador Cyrille Gautier-Auriol. digestif. In Asia, especially China, scene of cognac’s biggest sales growth, prestige cuvées (VSOP, XO and so on) dominate and are typically drunk with meals, either neat or mixed with a little water.

selection of styles “Cognac comes in several styles, each with its own characteristics and usages,” says Gautier-Auriol. “It should not be crammed into the ‘digestif’ straitjacket.”

The big brands aren’t alone in making this argument. “Cognac in cocktails is not doing the industry any harm,” says Charles Braastad, director of Delamain, a family-owned cognac house that makes only very high-end cognacs (it produces

neither VS nor VSOP). “In fact there are young cognacs that make good cocktails and there are other more developed ones that really call for being drunk on their own. It’s just like with wine: Some lowerend wines are easy-drinking but more complex ones require your full attention.”

While cognac marketing tends to emphasize the two ends of the spectrum, the various styles appear to coexist nicely.

Entry-level VS cognacs dominate in the U.S., though famous rappers are prone to flaunting bottles of Louis XIII or Paradis.

In Asia, deluxe cognacs are the most popular and fastest-growing category. In 2009, when Rémy Martin launched its Louis XIII Rare Cask, a limited-edition cognac going for 10,000 euros (about $13,500) a bottle, it did so in China.

Cognac’s new hip – or hip hop – image notwithstanding, it’s still a status symbol.

As to Quebec, Stéphane Leroux, sommelier at Montreal’s Leméac restaurant, notes that quite a few customers still like a good cognac after dinner. “I sell mainly XO or better, serving it the traditional way, neat in a balloon glass. But,” he adds, “I have to say I sell a lot more Scotch.”

cultuRal Distinctions Fabien Maillard, owner of and bartender at LAB, Montreal’s trendiest cocktail bar, stocks little cognac. “There are several

spirits HaRdy CognaC V.S.O.P.

PHOTOS: ANDRÉ DOYON.

$61.00, 11092385, 700 mL

excellent cognac cocktails, but they cost too much. In New York and Dubai, selling very expensive cocktails made with highend spirits is no problem. But Quebec is still a young market and it’s hard to go over $12 a cocktail here.”

“We didn’t create any new fashions,” says Hennessy’s Gautier-Auriol.

“Different markets adapted cognac to their specific culture.” And cognac makers have been smart enough to go with the flow. Far from being discomfited by their product’s association with hip hop culture, they’re encouraging it. None of them repeated the mistake made by Frederic Rouzaud, managing director of the champagne house Louis Roederer, in 2006 after Roederer’s deluxe Cristal, costing nearly $300 a bottle, became the darling of rappers. Asked by The Economist if he thought Cristal’s association with hip hop might sully the brand, Rouzaud replied: “That’s a good question, but what can we do? We can’t forbid people from buying it.” Immediately the hip hop music world boycotted the brand and Roederer lost a heap of invaluable free publicity. By contrast, the love affair between cognac and rappers is rolling along beautifully. In 2009 rapper Ludacris launched his own brand of cognac in the U.S., and cognac houses are developing products expressly for the American market, such as A. de Fussigny’s Nyak. n

London importer Anthony Hardy was so captivated by the Charente region and its cognac that in 1863 he moved there and changed his first name to Antoine. This is a fine and elegant cognac with a strong personality. It’s well balanced on the palate, showing notes of pear, flowers and vanilla.

If you’re looking for a silky mouthfeel and sumptuous richness, this one’s for you. J.P.

aBK6 v.S.o.p. gRand CRu Francis Abécassis

CuvéE d’ExCEptIon napoLéon Jules Gautret

$91.50, 11098023, 750 mL

$75.25, 11092254, 700 mL

Launched with input from France’s hip hop community and sporting the text-speak version of the estate owner’s name, the ABK6 line is aimed at retooling cognac’s image for a younger audience. This one has a fine delicate nose of flowers, sweet spices and subtle wood. The mouth is forthright and satisfying, without excessive heat, and is bound to appeal to connoisseurs and novices alike. J.P.

From a respected négociant firm founded in 1847, this divine orangey amber cognac releases aromas of orange peel and dried apricots accented with just a touch of honey.

The same fruit impressions reappear in the generously textured mouth, progressing into a long and inviting honeyed finish. M.C.

Tasting notes: Mario Chaput, Julie Perreault.

For product availability, go to SAQ.com or call a Sélection store.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

85

Barrels at Rivière du Chêne, a Saint-Eustache winery that consistently turns out some of the best wines in Quebec.

quebec terroir

Pride, Prejudice and the Palate

Quebec is still a newcomer on the international winemaking scene. should we be “drinking Quebec”– giving local wines Preferential treatment and showing our commitment to our home turf? we asked three Quebec-based exPerts.

by Étienne Gosselin and rÉmy Charest

Jean aubry, author and wine columnist

Photo: maude chauvin (j. aubry).

R

ight off the bat, Le Devoir wine writer Jean Aubry lists the faults in Quebec wines: “Mainly the immaturity of the grape varieties used, with ‘compensation’ in the cellar work that can unbalance and flatten the wines.

And sometimes inappropriate use of wood. And lastly, hints of dilution.”

But on the upside, “Quebec wineries have made much progress over the past 25 years, especially in the last five years,” he says. “This will become all the more apparent with the upcoming certification requirement for wines of 100-percent Quebec content. Though there’s still work to be done, I find that blends are now better managed and more suitable, and that the wines have purer fruit, without the defects associated with poor vinification.”

To encourage continued improvement in local winemaking, favouritism born of misplaced patriotism is not, he argues, the way to go. “Why favour Quebec wines?

The truth is in the glass, period. In and of themselves, Quebec wines are decent considering that they are produced in

difficult circumstances. They can stand up to comparisons with, for example, wines from Alsace or the Loire. But it’s also an interesting exercise to evaluate them within their category here in Quebec, if only to identify the best ones.”

“Quebec’s white wines are marvels and so are our icewines; why not continue in this vein and grow our expertise with them?”

– Jean aubry

Aubry says he assesses Quebec wines the same way he does all wines: “I evaluate the clarity, the balance, the finish and the overall texture. I’m looking for tangible quality.”

Asked to name Quebec wineries that stand out, he starts with L’Orpailleur, “to my way of thinking the most consistent and the best. Also, Côtes d’Ardoise in reds; Les Pervenches for the quality of both the

vineyard work and the cellar work; Domaine Les Brome, which is gradually coming into its own; and Vignoble du Marathonien, to name just a few.”

Decisions, Decisions These wineries, he adds, have proved capable of making choices. “I think that in their quest to succeed in difficult circumstances, many Quebec winemakers fall into the trap of planting more types of vines and making more kinds of wine.

Without trying to tell them what to do – I’m not here to do their work for them and anyway, to each his own specialty – if it were me I’d zero in on the types of vine varieties that would work best based on the terroir-microclimate equation, I’d look at how to achieve optimum ripeness, I’d define my target market and how to build consumer loyalty, and most of all I’d work toward a clear and clean expression of fruitiness, without a wood component.

Quebec’s white wines are marvels and so are our icewines; why not continue in this vein and grow our expertise with them?”

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

87

Pride, Prejudice and the Palate continued >>

Jacques OrHOn, sommelier, author and columnist “This is a sensitive subject because it can conflict with the patriotic instinct,” says Jacques Orhon, author of several wellknown wine guides. “But we writers should be objective, which is not always the case with certain producers who can lay it on pretty thick about the quality of their wines.”

In his opinion, a surfeit of superlatives does Quebec winemaking no good; higher standards are what’s needed. “I’m not against an encouraging pat on the back. Far from it, because many Quebec wineries are making quality wines that do justice to the profession of vigneron.

But you can’t say everything’s fine, everything’s good. I know new regulations will soon be implemented, and so much the better, but if they are still somewhat lax, complain as we might, it won’t make a difference.”

Looking at the big picture, making wine for the sake of making wine simply isn’t enough nowadays, Orhon says.

“While we should continue to encourage Quebec winemakers who do a good job given the ecosystems they are working with, here’s what we should be asking ourselves: Why insist on making wine all over the planet when we’re already facing worldwide overproduction? If Quebec wants to be a wine producer, it has to aim high to justify its place on planet wine.”

88 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

Jean Beaudin, teacher at École Hôtelière des Laurentides The first problem with Quebec wines, says Jean Beaudin, “is the disparity among producers. Quality has improved greatly, but subpar products cast a shadow over the good ones. That’s why there are still lots of prejudices about Quebec wines.”

He notes that choice of vines is another considerable challenge. “The best varieties [Vitis vinifera] are difficult to grow here, which forces us to make wine using, shall we say, less prestigious varieties. That’s a big part of why people tend to be a little condescending about Quebec wines. Certain hybrids are of decent quality but they’re still a long way from the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon our discriminating palates demand. That said, the quality of our hybrids is one of the things that has most improved in recent years.”

This fact has to be taken into account when it comes to evaluating Quebec wines, Beaudin says. “One shouldn’t be indulgent toward them but simply judge them for what they are or in light of their potential. By definition a Quebec wine should have a fairly exuberant nose [typical of northern-climate wines] and show freshness in the mouth. If you like Muscadets, known for their appealing acidity, then you owe it to yourself to try Quebec wines because acidity is part and parcel of their character.”

He does, however, make an allowance with regard to the prices of local wines.

“Rather like Quebec cheeses, these are artisanal products, made in small quantities and thus more expensive to produce.” All the same, he urges consumers to be demanding. “Accepting wines of lesser quality is not going to improve things. Let’s face it, you buy a bottle to please yourself, not to please the winemakers. You like it or you don’t like it. When it’s good, it’s good. When it has a fault or is unacceptable, you should say so.”

As to the future prospects of Quebec winemaking, Beaudin believes that it’s essential to consider what the climate can produce. “The future of Quebec wines lies in crisp, refreshing whites and easydrinking, fruity reds meant to be drunk young,” he declares. “My favourite red grape is the Sainte-Croix. I also have a lot of faith in sparkling wines, which require good acidity and are always produced in cooler regions. But our best wines are icewines, thanks to winter, which concentrates the aromas and produces one of the greatest wines anywhere.

Sipping them, it’s remarkable to think that these enchanting flavours are created by one of the harshest climates in the world – ours.” n

see page 90 to find out what Le Journal de Montréal wine writer claude Langlois thinks of quebec wines.

Photos: Josiane Duval orhon (J. orhon) ; Christian raDo (J. BeauDin) ; anDré Doyon (Bottles).

quebec terroir GIvRéE d’ARdoIsE 2007 Icewine Domaine des Côtes d’Ardoise

FLEuR dE BACChus Apple-raspberry liqueur Domaine Orléans

LA MIssIon 2008 Icewine Vignoble La Mission

$61.25, 00719971, 375 mL

$22.90, 10494702, 375 mL

$57.75, 10220411, 375 mL

A Vidal icewine from Quebec’s oldest artisanal winery, Givrée d’Ardoise is a flavour bomb of lychee, mango, apricot and candied orange. With its sweetness offset by acidity, the mouth shows finesse and elegance. Sinfully good with Quebec-made blue cheeses. D.L.

Produced on Île d’Orléans by an estate that actually specializes in apple products and fish farming, this seductive liqueur boasts exuberant and quite amazing aromas of apple, white truffle oil and ripe raspberry. The mouth is rich but not excessive. Serve with raspberry cheesecake. S.G.R.

Co-founded by a Mexican and a Quebecer and given a trilingual name, La Mission works with the Vidal grape because of its tendency to make excellent icewines.

This enticing and opulent treat, scented with apricot and pineapple compote, is a case in point.

Serve with foie gras or blue cheese, or simply as a dessert unto itself. S.G.R.

FInE CARoLInE Apple liqueur Cidrerie Michel Jodoin

MondE 2008 Icewine Vignoble Rivière du Chêne

L’oRpAILLEuR 2008 Icewine Vignoble de l’Orpailleur

$35.75, 00733402, 700 mL

$32.25, 11057475, 200 mL

$32.00, 10220269, 200 mL

Michel Jodoin, whose family has been growing apples in Rougemont since 1901, is one of Quebec’s most innovative cider-makers. For Fine Caroline, he blends an eau-de-vie distilled on the premises with fresh apple juice to create a captivating liqueur that’s fragrant with pastry, vanilla and cooked apple. Serve cool, with strong cheeses or walnut cake. S.G.R.

Made entirely from Vidal, which imbues it with appealing liveliness, Monde has won many medals, including one at the prestigious Vinalies de Paris competition. The nose releases scents of honey and candied citrus peel with notes of spices and exotic fruit in the finish.

The mouth is rich, tasty and delightfully long. J.P.

Made from Vidal, this icewine from the venerable Vignoble de l’Orpailleur is distinguished by a deep golden hue and intense aromas of honey, apricot and orange peel. It also gives off more subtle suggestions of fresh ginger and honeysuckle. The mouth echoes the same impressions and is remarkably fresh and deliciously lush. J.P.

Limited quantities. Vintages may vary from store to store.

Tasting notes: Simon Gaudreault-Rouleau, Diane Lesage, Julie Perreault

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

89

Claude Langlois of Le Journal de MontrĂŠal

The Straight Shooter

behind the scenes The interview was at Bistro chez roger on Beaubien street east in Montreal’s rosemont district. The bistro is known for its spareribs and intriguing wine list.

Writing about Wine in a populist tabloid may seem counterintuitive, but don’t tell that to le Journal

de montréal’s no-nonsense Wine columnist.

By MARC CHAPleAu

photo: Jean-françois lemire/shootstudio.

H

ow to describe Claude Langlois?

Well, at 62 he still has a thick shock of hair with only a hint of grey in it. And he has a short fuse, something he’d be the first to admit.

He’s been writing about wine in Le Journal de Montréal for nearly 25 years, which is also how long we have known each other.

In all that time, I have never spent five straight hours with him in a wideranging discussion. Speaking with him at a Montreal restaurant, he is by turns worked up, throwing caution to the winds, and almost apologetic, as if worried he’s said something vaguely foolish – all of which makes for a fascinating interview.

His first wine column for Le Journal ran in April 1986. He’d pitched the idea to his then-boss, who told him to do a few columns on a trial basis to see how they went over. They were a hit. “But can you do it over the long haul?” the boss asked.

Yes, said Langlois.

“At the time Le Journal was still devoted mainly to lurid news items, though it was moving toward becoming a more family-style tabloid,” Langlois notes. cellier : in fact wasn’t that something that intrigued Pierre Bourgault at the time, that such a populist paper was writing about wine? langlois : Perhaps. Bourgault ended up asking me to be the regular wine commentator on his Radio-Canada radio show. It was 1987 or 1988, and Marie-France Bazzo was the co-host. I’d arrive with wines every Saturday and make

not that i recall. He kept his wine collection inside his enormous dining-room table. And I do mean inside it!

It had a hidden compartment where he kept about 100 bottles.

What a strange concept! His house had been burgled before, that’s why.

But back to Bourgault’s attitude that a wine column in a tabloid was incongruous. i know le Journal has changed and its contributors now include celebrities and some intellectuals, but even so, isn’t covering expensive or hard-to-come-by wines a bit tricky sometimes? are Journal readers really interested? It’s true that in the beginning I wrote

“My thing isn’t to drink ausone or latour; it’s to drink good wine, period.” recommendations and we’d discuss them. I was on the show for about four years. Bourgault knew wine, I must say.

He knew wine, or he liked it? Well, he certainly liked it a lot, he was really interested in it. He was very well-informed, for the day, with some exceptional wines in his cellar. Did I ever tell you about his cellar?

only about inexpensive wines. But that’s changed and now I write about virtually any wine I want to – interestingly enough, due to readers. They would ask me things like, ‘So-and-so is retiring and we want to get him a $100 bottle of wine.’ The Vin plaisir section of my Saturday column now covers that category.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

91

behind the scenes

THe STrAIgHT SHOOTer continued >> Let’s turn to Quebec wines. There’s a piece in this issue of the magazine that looks at whether Quebecers should give local wines preferential treatment. What’s your take on this? I believe it was Michael Broadbent, the well-known British Master of Wine, who, when asked why he never talked about English wines, said something like: “I don’t drink the flag, I drink wine.” I completely agree.

All the same… The grapes used to make our wines are more rustic than Vinifera varieties and can show emphatic typicity, but that’s no reason to change how we evaluate aromatic expression, fruit quality and overall balance. When comparing Quebec cheeses to cheeses from France and other places, we don’t change the criteria.

In fact, because the criteria are the same, it makes us all that much prouder that our cheeses are just as good. The same goes for our seasonal fruit and vegetables: Many people think Quebec blueberries and strawberries are much better than those from California, for example.

So why should it be any different for our grapes and the wines they deliver?

Ultimately, the consumer buying a $14 bottle of wine has no interest in the fact that you have to struggle to grow such-and-such a grape at such-and-such a latitude.

He just wants the best wine possible for the money he’s willing to spend.

But when you yourself are drinking a Quebec wine, do you apply your usual critical process or do you tend to be lenient? Do I hold back a little when I’m judging Quebec wines? Maybe, unconsciously. But I hope not. Which doesn’t prevent me from being proud that some of our wines rival those produced elsewhere.

92 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

AT HOME What stemware do you use? I used INAO glasses for a long time, just like everyone else. Then I switched to this [picking up a glass from the table], Riedel’s Ouverture.

I also have Spiegelaus, and when we’re entertaining at home, I get out the big glasses in the Oenologue series

by Cristal d’Arques, which La Revue du Vin de France has recommended. And before you ask, I clean them in the dishwasher and that’s it.

It doesn’t chip them or have an abrasive effect or cause cloudiness? No, none of that. Anyway, I always season the glasses [rinse them with a very small amount of wine].

What about decanting? Do you let wines breathe after opening them? Quite often. But I recently discovered an aerator that seems to actually work. I’m thrilled with it, I find it really effective. The advantage with this gizmo, which works via the Venturi effect [related to fluid pressure], is that you can decant just one glass. That said, I’m not usually a gadget kind of guy.

Langlois still looks back fondly on the period in the late 1980s when he was the wine commentator on the radio show Plaisirs, co-hosted by the powerhouse duo of MarieFrance Bazzo and Pierre Bourgault.

I am about to broach the subject of wine-food pairings when the waitress arrives to take our order. Langlois picks the spareribs with spicy sauce. Oh boy, I’m looking at the wine list and thinking, What can you drink with that? Whatever, a red, order what you want [I seem to care more about the pairing than he does]. If the wine is good, I’ll be just fine.

TASTING Would you say you have any weak points in terms of tasting? Like difficulty detecting the taste of the cork, of sulphur, whatever? Apparently he’s very sure of himself and his own abilities, as he does not give a direct reply, instead confessing that, with one proviso, he dislikes Brettanomyces, a yeast commonly referred to as “Brett” that can cause sweaty or animal flavours in wine.

I tolerate Brett and the odours that it causes in Burgundy wines, but in other wines it bugs me.

Hold it! You detest wines with Brett but with Burgundies your critical faculties suddenly go out the window? What can I say? I find it easier to take in a Burgundy, that’s all. Yet if you were to ask me…

I’m not asking you anything. I know, but I’m going to tell you anyway: If you were to ask me if there’s one grape I have difficulty with, it’s Sauvignon. The cat’s pee, the boxwood – I have to really work at liking it. New Zealand Sauvignons, with their notes of asparagus, pronounced vegetal impressions, rhubarb and celery, I find undrinkable!

PHOTOS: PHOTOTHÈQUE ET ARCHIVES/RADIO-CANADA (BAZZO AND BOURGAULT); ARCHIVES LA PRESSE (LANGLOIS).

Okay, under-30s, you can stop laughing now. This circa-1985 shot shows journalists were still using typewriters at the time, though computers – there’s one behind Langlois here – had also begun to appear in newsrooms.

So why are they so popular? In my opinion, and this goes for oaky reds too, people like the obvious.

It’s easy to recognize, so it’s reassuring. Exactly.

People like wines that are heavily underlined, so to speak. And I’m not putting them down, I’m just making an observation.

And at the other end of the scale – blind tasting?

I’m a fan. I always taste blind.

No downside to it? No downside, no. I’ve read all the arguments. I know you’re against blind tasting.

I’m not against it, it’s just that it has limits. Did you read what Eric Asimov had to say on this in our summer issue? I did, and his arguments did not sway me. You can watch a film or read a book without knowing who wrote it, and like it. Or not like it, if it’s bad. When I buy the coup de cœur [staff favourite] at Renaud-Bray, for example, I don’t want to know all about the author, his life, his other works and so on. I read it and I form my own opinion, that’s all.

But I respect those who prefer to know the label. It’s just not my thing. My thing isn’t to drink Ausone or Latour; it’s to drink good wine, period.

Yes, I’ve bought Margaux, Mouton and Romanée-Conti, but not anymore. Now I buy wines that I like, even if they’re just $20 or $25. Very rarely these days will I spend more than $100 on a bottle. I stick to the $25–$80 range, that’s where I really enjoy myself.

A good example would be Verget’s ‘small’ white Burgundy – but don’t print its name.

Why not? You name wines in your column every week. Okay then, the Grand Élevage Bourgogne 2008, at something like $24, is superb!

HIS FIRST TIME “I first really discovered wine in the early 1970s when I was about 25. I was doing a journalism internship in Paris and one time a group of us went to Bordeaux, to the négociant firm Eschenauer, and tasted about 40 wines there – whites, reds and Sauternes.

“I was fascinated by the experience, it was the trigger. But I have to say our Bordeaux hosts winced when they saw us. We were actual journalism interns, right, but pretty laid-back and wearing the hippie-style clothing of the time. Nevertheless, it went on late into the night, in a Bordeaux resto, everybody was having a great time.

“After I got back to Quebec, I set out to learn about wine. I read – a lot. The first book I read was Time-Life’s Le vin – I still have it. Then there was Alexis Lichine, then [Frank] Schoonmaker, whose book was published by Marabout if I remember correctly. I also bought Burgundies and Bordeaux and tried to figure them out. Back then no one talked about grape varieties, it was almost entirely about appellations.

“So then I started paying attention to wine news. I remember Californians coming to Montreal, in 1978 I think it was, anyway just after the Judgment of Paris, to present the winners of that competition, which of course had been all over the news. That was the first real wine event I attended.

“After that I met Jean Aubry, who was then a photographer [and is now Le Devoir’s wine writer] and had a group that called itself Les Écoliers du Vin [The Students of Wine]. Then there was the Quebec chapter of Steven Spurrier’s Académie du Vin, in Old Montreal, around 1983. That was where I met Champlain Charest, among others.”

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

93

behind the scenes THe STrAIGHT SHOOTer continued >>

A conversation with Langlois is never boring. He gets keyed up about something, then nuanced, then calm, then animated again…

I agree! But in turning away from fine wines to $25 ones, is that partly the rebel in you, a desire to be different? There may be a bit of that, yes. But more than that, there’s also the fact that fine wines are very expensive not so much for what they inherently are but because of the supply-and-demand game. We all know that producing even the finest wine rarely costs more than $50 a bottle, though it may sell for 10 times that.

Are you saying you went off fine wines because they disappointed you? No, no, no! Here’s one off the top of my head, the Mouton Rothschild 1986. An amazing wine, wow! Perfection! And there are lots of others like that. On the other hand, there are alleged stars I was never charmed by.

So name those too. What wine most disappointed you or in your opinion is most overrated? No doubt this will make me many enemies but I think Barolos are the most overrated wines. I do not understand the interest in them.

Fine, you don’t like Barolos, but please don’t tell me that your favourite wine is Burgundy. Granted it’s a great region, but let’s face it, to find a good wine you first have to work your way through four or five that are thin and acidulous, and pricey to boot. It’s true that if you’ve had a good Burgundy somewhere and you want to repeat the experience without any guidance – well, good luck with that.

94 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

So what to tell consumers? I’d tell them to go with the recommendations of wine writers, because they know the wines and drink them often.

At the same time, while I’m very much a Burgundy and Chablis man, I really like Bordeaux and I’m a big fan of Syrahs too. In short, when it’s good, it’s good! Whatever the label and whether or not it’s a cult wine.

But if I want real enjoyment, and I’m with my girlfriend, definitely we’re going to open a Burgundy.

To me it’s the sensual wine par excellence.

And New World wines? It’s well known, at least in the wine milieu, that you’re not exactly enamoured of them. Why not? This will make me more enemies, but in general I think they have too much alcohol, they’re too ‘body-built.’ The whites for example are often undrinkable, in my opinion – too vanilla-y, too sweetish.

Look, it’s not complicated, I’ll say it again: I’m a Chablis man. Despite my great respect for Chile and Australia, when I encounter a big Chardonnay, I just can’t handle it!

Although I should point out that I was just in Australia and I flipped for their Rieslings.

A taste test for one of our recent issues [Summer 2010] came to a similar conclusion.

I also had some very nice Chardonnays there.

But you just said the opposite, that you can’t stand those wines. The problem is how rare they are and how expensive they are. For me to enjoy an Australian wine as much as I enjoy Verget’s Grand Élevage at $25, I’d have to pay at least twice that, probably more. I had some excellent Chardonnays at Penfolds and Hardys – they were incredible. But they cost $100!

You know that wines are always somehow better when you’re travelling, even for us experts. We get back here and often feel a kind of letdown. I know, but I’m talking about Chardonnays that aren’t in-your-face charming and vanilla-y and buttery, but rather showing a fine faint rancio with hazelnut and good acidic structure.

On another topic where I suspect you have an intriguing opinion: How do you feel about Beaujolais? And here I’ll add for the benefit of our

readers that your aversion to Gamay and Beaujolais in general was, for a long time, a running gag in the milieu. My friend, I’m rediscovering Beaujolais! And that’s saying something, believe me. I was put right off Beaujolais at the very start of my career, on one of my first press trips, in 1987 or thereabouts. We went to Beaujolais and I was disgusted by the wines, they were chaptalized and unbalanced. Fortunately, they’re now going back to their roots of being easy-drinking and fresh without too-high alcohol.

But they’re exaggerating with the crus [Morgon, Brouilly, Fleurie and so on]. There’s a lot of chest thumping around these wines, but they’re actually not all that great, they’re just very good. You often hear that Beaujolais is good when it’s Pinot-like – so buy a Burgundy, already!

THE CONFESSIONAL Have you ever made a mistake you will never make again? I must confess that early on in my career, in the mid-1980s, the first oaky Australian whites arrived and I liked them. They amazed me because, while by then I had drunk many Bordeaux and Burgundies, I didn’t always feel the barrel influence, especially in the whites. And wow, I found that I loved the toasted-almond hint in Padthaway’s Chardonnays and some of the other Aussie whites. What exuberance! But really it was just the barrel.

Liking this kind of wine was a mistake, so to speak, even though at the time they were also making this kind of wine in Meursault – more toasted almond, whereas Pulignys have more of a hazelnut impression, which is more my style now.

And I was wild about Australian Chards because for $12 you could get the same thing as you’d get with a $30 or $40 Meursault.

So my advice to beginners would be: Beware of wood. Try to distinguish between what comes from the wood and what comes from the grape. Wine is grape juice first, not wood juice or stem juice, so its first taste should be of the grape.

I would also tell beginners: Be yourself and you’ll be universal. That goes for winemakers too, and for wine writers.

A view of the town of Chablis from high up the hill of grands crus vineyards.

EPILOGUE

PHOTOS: jean-françOiS lemire/SHOOTSTudiO (faCinG PaGe); jOn arnOld imaGeSlTd/alamY (CHaBliS).

I’m not sure I follow. You’re nothing if you don’t take a stand.

So applied to the wine world, this would be: Be yourself, trust your own tastes? Exactly. Even though, of course, taste is something that develops over time.

For example, it’s easy to like sugar. It’s an innate taste. You dip a pacifier in honey and the baby will love it, but dip it in something acidic or bitter and the baby will cry.

To me, sugar in wine is like talking baby talk to a

child. Drinking wine means accepting that you’re an adult, accepting that there is acidity, bitterness, tannins and so on. [To an imaginary presence] You don’t like acidic wine?

Well you’re just going to have to learn to like it!

Here he stops suddenly and apologizes, apparently aware that he has been almost lecturing. So shall we wind things down? Do you have enough? I’m a little uncomfortable talking so much about myself…

Langlois drinks wine, judges it and pronounces on it in a peremptory fashion.

His style can be that of a gunslinger: Bang, bang, and back into the holster the gun goes. “I’m sure of what I say until proved wrong” is his motto. Still, he’s liked in the wine profession because most times he hits the bull’s eye.

Similarly, his writing is snappy, direct and lively. “I used to be kind of impressionist in my writing, but that’s changed.”

For the record, a couple of times during our interview he said he was touched that Cellier was doing a piece on him. n

OFF THE CUFF A bad wine? No fruit.

A good wine? Balanced, with personality and character.

A fine wine? Same thing squared, with finesse and elegance too.

Country you’re most disappointed in? Chile, which took off in the early 1990s.

Sorry to say, but nine times out of 10 Chilean wines smell of sweat, horse saddle, Brett. And the wines they’re making now aren’t even as good as the ones they were making back then. I know this is a shocking thing to say. It’s probably just that my tastes have changed.

Country you think has most improved? Spain, where there are loads of good and inexpensive wines but also Priorats, fine Riberas [del Duero] and so on.

Organic and so-called natural wines? It’s not a selection criterion for me. If the wine is good but not organic, fine! Same for natural wines.

Your wine cellar? I don’t have a list of the contents. I like rummaging around in my cellar. I have identification tags on my bottles. And anyway I know my cellar well: I know where my Bordeaux are, my Burgundies, my Rhônes, my Californians, et cetera.

Do you sometimes lose track of wines, come across them too late? Sure, like everyone. But I’m a fan of old wines, I like them developed.

Bio in brief: Langlois was born in Armagh in the county of Bellechasse in 1948. He’s been the wine columnist for Le Journal de Montréal since 1986. His column runs on Saturdays in the Maison section while his vin de la semaine (wine of the week) recommendation appears on Fridays. And like a certain former American president, he played a mean saxophone in his youth.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

95

confit

An EAsy EpicurEAn DElight SIMPLE TO MAKE AT HOME, A SUCCULEnT DUCK COnFIT COnFERS HEALTH BEnEFITS wHILE PAIRIng SUBLIMELY wITH TAnnIC, STRUCTURED RED wInES.

By Véronique riVest

I

’ll never forget my first trip to southwest France, where my husband and I were visiting his grandmother. As an epicure, I knew I’d done well in marrying Dominique because his father was from Gascony and his mother from Alsace – both lands of foie gras.

Bonne maman, as everyone in the family called her, raised fattened geese and ducks.

Behind her house was a barn that held a number of old armoires. I opened some of them and stood gaping: They were crammed with confits. Naturally there were jars of foie gras, but also an impressive array of confit duck and goose legs, wings, gizzards and stuffed necks. Absolutely nothing had been wasted in cooking the birds.

Crazy for Confit Confit is simply meat cooked and preserved in its own fat. Originally, like salting, it was mainly a way to conserve

96 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

meat. Now thought of as a specialty of southwest France, raising fattened geese and ducks – achieved through force feeding, a technique also known as gavage – actually goes back to ancient Egypt. The practice, which yielded a fat that could be substituted for lard, was adopted by Jews, who spread it throughout Europe.

In France the technique was particularly favoured in Madiran. “Only here do you find gavage scenes in Roman frescos,” says renowned local winemaker Alain Brumont. “When I was a child, you’d eat only foie gras. Other parts of the duck and goose were considered by-products for poor people to eat. You would never serve confit to guests.”

Nowadays it’s not only perfectly fine to serve confit, but people are crazy about its flavour, tenderness and versatility.

Traditionally it’s eaten with pommes de terre sarladaises (thin potato slices roasted in duck fat with garlic and parsley) but it’s

also consumed as a salad, in sandwiches or with pasta. And shepherd’s pie made with duck confit? Fabulous!

G u i lt y a s CharGed At the restaurant where I’m the sommelier, bits of skin and meat are often left stuck to the bottom of the pots in which duck has slowly been cooked for confit.

These morsels are coated in fat and very salty – in other words, ultra tasty! Couple that with the warm baguettes delivered from the bakery every morning, and you have a good idea of what my favourite breakfast is…

in season

PHOTOS: BOB ELSDALE/EUREKA/ALAMY (DUCK); DEBI TRELOAR/STOCKFOOD (RECIPE).

Worth the trip Since that revelation in bonne maman’s barn, I’ve had the pleasure of working with chefs Charlie and Jennifer Part, owners of Les Fougères restaurant in Chelsea in the Ottawa Valley. Their duck confit is one of the best I’ve ever had.

When Charlie came to Canada from England in the 1980s, he’d never heard of confit, but he became intrigued upon listening to chefs here rhapsodize about it.

He dug through his cookbooks and tried a recipe. Was it a disaster? “Not in the least,” he replies. “The beauty of confit is that it’s impossible to screw it up.” Thirty years later, he still loves to make and eat confit.

He says it’s the one dish that can never be removed from the restaurant’s menu.

Even patrons from the couple’s first eatery in Toronto make the trip to Chelsea just for the confit.

Though he works mainly with duck, Charlie also makes lamb and pork confits.

“The most important element is the meat cut,” he says, explaining that you need a “muscly,” fatty piece with lots of nerves in it, such as a shoulder or shank, that can stand up to the cooking process.

Legs lend themselves nicely to confit because they contain many nerves and ligaments. During the long, slow cooking process the meat is held together and all the tough bits in it soften, yielding a tender and succulent dish. “You have to cook it on really, really low heat, at barely a simmer, for about two, two-and-a-half hours,” says

Les Fougères Duck conFit 6 SERVINGS IngREdIEnts

- 6 Barbary or Moulard duck legs - Coarse salt - 2 litres (8 cups) store-bought duck fat, melted dIRECtIons

Rub the duck legs with salt and refrigerate overnight.

Carefully remove the excess salt.

Put the legs in a Dutch oven or deep saucepan and add melted duck fat to cover the meat.

Cook on very low heat, making sure the fat never does more than barely simmer, for two to three hours, or until the meat comes away from the bone, exposing about 2.5 cm (one inch) of it.

Transfer the legs to a large bowl and cover completely with the fat. Let cool and then refrigerate.

Before serving, carefully remove the legs from the fat.

Put them in an ovenproof dish, skin-side up. Cook for seven minutes in an oven preheated to 205°C (400 °F).

Turn and cook for another seven minutes, until the skin is golden brown and crispy.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

97

in season An EAsy EpicurEAn DElight continued >>

reds that Bite But what about all that fat? “Confit is a lot less fatty than you’d think,” says Jennifer.

“The fat in the meat melts during cooking.

Plus with duck legs, it’s concentrated in one

s ta rt w i t h good duCk How do you make a really good confit?

Simple, says Olivier Nassans, owner of Élevages Périgord in the town of SaintLouis-de-Gonzague near Valleyfield. “It takes good duck.”

The Moulard, a cross between a male Barbary and a female Pekin, is the breed most commonly raised by fattened-duck farms. In Quebec, Élevages Périgord and Aux Champs d’Élisé raise Moulard ducks.

Brome Lake Ducks raises only Pekin ducks, a smaller bird, and does not forcefeed them. It also makes confit.

98 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

layer between the skin and the meat and is really easy to remove.”

Brumont alludes to the so-called French Paradox and the fact that duck fat is a “good” fat, like olive oil. And speaking of the French Paradox, one of its elements is of course red wine, containing polyphenols that help prevent cardiovascular disease. “Madiran wine has the most polyphenols,” Brumont claims, adding that it goes wonderfully with confit. “Confit calls for big, structured wines with good tannins.” It’s true that Madiran wines pair especially well with confit; a kind of symbiosis takes place between the tannins and the soft texture of the meat. It’s as if the tannins bite into the richness of the meat even as the fat seems to coat and soften them.

Several other wines from southwest France are also excellent with confits.

My favourites include wines from Cahors, Saint-Mont and Béarn, at the foot of the Pyrenees. Farther north, reds from Bergerac and Bordeaux, especially the left-bank ones (from the Médoc, for example), also marry very happily with confit. Indeed, many structured and tannic red wines will do the trick, including certain Rhône and Languedoc wines that are particularly suited to lamb confit. Or if you have a predilection for New World wines, try an Argentinian Malbec or a Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile or California.

At Les Fougères they often suggest the Baco Noir from the Niagara winery Henry of Pelham. It has noticeable acidity and tannins, along with a vaguely animal suggestion, and after a few years in the bottle is somewhat reminiscent of a Côtes du Rhône. n

riCh reds For a tastY dish

•

Pojega Ripasso 2007 : redolent with black cherry and clove.

Ocra 2007 : an excellent red from Tuscany’s Bolgheri appellation.

Malbec XL 2006 : a real Cahors vin noir – dark, brawny, tannic.

Malbec Luigi Bosca 2007 : crafted to be both smooth and powerful.

Giné Giné 2007 : magical Spanish mix of Grenache fruitiness with Carignan minerality.

• • •

•

For details on these and other new releases, turn to page 69.

photo : Steve lupton/corbiS

Charlie. “If you try to speed up the process the meat will be tougher and stringier.”

And if you haven’t the time, confit is now available in grocery stores. “It’s the gourmet fast food par excellence,” says Jennifer. “Everybody should have some on hand.” All you have to do with store-bought confit is reheat it. With pan-fried potatoes or a green salad, you have a delicious meal in mere minutes.

Takes a deep breath, one glass at a time. the pleasure of instantly enhancing the bouquet and the flavour of your favourite wine. With trudeau.

trudeau.ca / 1-800-878-3328

The Aroma.

BEAUPORT DécoCuisine 418 660-4019

JOLIETTE Amandine Joliette 450 752-2618

BROSSARD stark & Whyte Quartier DiX30 888 227-0157 starketwhyte.com Z’Axe Quartier DiX30 450 443-3443 zaxeobjetsdeco.com

LAVAL Ares 450 902-1030 arescuisine.com Boutique Variation 440 marché 440 450 682-3331 Després Laporte 877 682-7676 despreslaporte.com Z’Axe Carrefour Laval 450 973-3242 zaxeobjetsdeco.com

CHARLESBOURG DécoCuisine 418 626-5357 GASPÉ Zone cuisine 418 368-4344 GRANBY Després Laporte 800 378-4644 despreslaporte.com

MONTMAGNY Cadeaux marie Laurence 418 234-1717 cadeauxml.ca

• Easy to use with just one hand • Dripless spout • BPA Free

MONTRÉAL Cuizin marché Jean talon 514 273-9339 La soupière Plateau 514 527-4626 Centre-ville 514 933-7885 lasoupiere.com Quincaillerie Dante 514 271-2057 Zone Plateau 514 845-3530 Westmount 514 489-8901 Côte-des-neiges 514 343-5455 zonemaison.com

POINTE-CLAIRE Ares 514 695-5225 arescuisine.com

ST-FÉLICIEN La maison du bleuet 418 630-4333 lamaisondubleuet.com

THETFORD MINES A setlakwe 418 335-9121 setlakwemode.com

QUÉBEC DécoCuisine Place Laurier 418 650-6659 Place Quatre-Bourgeois 418 653-5249 Place Fleur de Lys 418 524-3982 Zone 418 522-7373 zonemaison.com

ST-GEORGES Les Fournitures de Beauce 418 228-4755 fournituresdebeauce.com

PARTOUT AU QUÉBEC Boutique electrik 800 561-7750 poste 231 boutikelectrik.com Le Centre du rasoir 514 636-4512 cdrem.com Pot Pourri 514 341-4000

NEW RICHMOND store mag 418 392-5442

SHERBROOKE Després Laporte 800 378-2620 despreslaporte.com

REPENTIGNY Boutique Héritage 450 581-8213

ST-HUBERT Ares 514 905-0356 arescuisine.com STE-THÉRÈSE La Porte de la cuisine 450 430-2932 ST-SAUVEUR L’Air du temps 450 227-1447

© 2010 Trudeau Corporation 1889 Inc.

The aerator injects air into the wine, instantly decanting while you pour.

Cheers.

eating out Left to right, co-owners Audrey Dufresne, Michel charrette and Xavier Burini. she’s a chef and they are sommeliers.

Les Trois Petits Bouchons

A BisTro-BAr ThAT Beckons

by Patrick Désy

L

es Trois Petits Bouchons, wine bar-cum-bistro and, more often than not, packed, is on Saint-Denis Street in Montreal.

“After work most people will have a beer at a bar and then go to a restaurant for dinner,” says Michel Charrette, one of three co-owners of the establishment and a sommelier by training. “So we changed our original concept slightly to incorporate a full menu.”

Photo: jean tremblay.

As an accompaniment, kumamoto oysters from the Pacific. Yum! That doesn’t mean they neglect wine – far from it. Reflecting an ever-growing trend, Les Trois Petits Bouchons has positioned itself as a promoter of natural and organic wines. Indeed, Xavier Burini, another co-owner and sommelier, suggests I kick things off with a glass of excellent champagne from Domaine Vouette et Sorbée. The glass itself is perfect, flared just enough to allow full expression of the wine, but the amount of champagne in it seems a tad stingy to me, especially given that it costs more than $20… However, as an accompaniment, Kumamoto oysters from the Pacific. Yum! The mainly French wine list is not extensive but features several gems. Perusing it, I raise the sacrosanct issue of private

imports: Do they have no choice but to offer them? “It’s kind of our trademark,” Charrette replies with a small smile. “It’s how we distinguish ourselves from other restaurants and bars. As a matter of fact, we work in partnership with private importers to guarantee that certain products will be exclusive to us.” Adds Burini: “Our customers love trying new and unusual wines.” Mind you, this means the wine list and the wines themselves have to be explained to customers. This task falls mostly to the wait staff, all young and eager sommeliers who make sure that customers are satisfied and would willingly take back a wine if a patron dislikes it.

After an appetizer of terrifically tasty grilled octopus, chef Audrey Dufresne, the third co-owner, sends out an amazing veal tartare accented with lime zest and Thai spices. A glass of Gentil from the Alsace winery Audrey et Christian Binner is suggested as an accompaniment. Its freshness and the spot-on fullness of the mouthfeel make a marvellous contrast to the tartare’s spiced and exotic flavours. It’s such a perfect marriage it makes me want to come back to Les Trois Petits Bouchons every day, though the bill that arrives at the table later is a bit of a deterrent… n

Les Trois PeTiTs Bouchons, 4669 sainT-Denis sTreeT, MonTreaL

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

101

taste test

Merlot

What’s Not to Like?

MeRlOT wAs fAMOuslY TRAsHeD iN THe filM siDewAYs AND is OfTeN cRiTicizeD fOR beiNg ONe-DiMeNsiONAl. THeN AgAiN, iT’s THe MAiN gRAPe iN fiNe wiNes sucH As lA cONseillANTe, PÉTRus AND TROTANOY. sO cellieR DeciDeD iT wAs TiMe fOR A fiRsT-HAND APPRAisAl.

By SéBaStien Lafrance

PHOTO: ANDRÉ DOYON.

W

ay back in 1898, the book Bordeaux et ses vins had this to say about Merlot, which was then called Sémillon Rouge in Médoc: “Its finesse, smoothness and charm make it preferable to young Cabernet wines but it does not improve much with aging… Because this very productive grape typically offers a combination of quality plus quantity, it’s becoming more widespread by the day.”

The more things change, the more they stay the same: 112 years later, Merlot’s popularity shows no signs of abating.

It’s by far the most-planted grape in Bordeaux, where it accounts for roughly double the Cabernet Sauvignon plantings.

Vignerons love Merlot because it ripens quickly and produces wines that are rich in alcohol, while consumers the world over appreciate its very fruity aromas, which often tend toward plum or strawberry.

Most importantly, Merlot yields round and velvety wines that are light on tannins and very approachable, making it the red answer to Chardonnay. Also like Chardonnay, Merlot is found

all over the planet and its name is easy to pronounce, whatever language you speak – a decided advantage on a business level.

The flip side of all this is that connoisseurs look down their sensitive noses at it. In Sideways, wine buff Miles threatens to walk out of the restaurant if anyone orders Merlot. The irony, as many connoisseurs twigged to when watching the film, is that Miles’ most prized bottle is a Château Cheval Blanc. And guess which grape accounts for about half that blend…

Miles is not alone in his ambivalence. “To me, Cabernet Franc is nobler and more exciting, [whereas] Merlot brings alcoholic power and meatiness to a wine,” Dominique Hébrard, co-owner of two Saint-Émilion châteaux that grow a lot of Merlot, was quoted as saying in the last Cellier.

Yet some very illustrious wines are made almost exclusively from Merlot, including Pomerol’s Le Pin and Pétrus as well as Tenuta dell’Ornellaia’s Masseto and Frescobaldi’s Lamaione, both Tuscan. So terroir quality – for example Libourne’s famed crasse de fer (ferruginous sandstone) – is also a factor.

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

103

taste test MERLots

WHAT’S NOT TO LikE? continued >> An InternAtIonAl Group To get a handle on the Merlot situation, we assembled 30 Merlots of different provenances. As in our previous taste tests of specific varietals, we tried to come up with a balanced selection, in this case 10 wines from France (mainly Bordeaux), 10 from the United States and 10 from other countries, including Canada, New Zealand and Australia.

Each wine had to be at least 75-percent Merlot. We also tried to select wines that are regularly stocked at the SAQ so that your chances of finding them are good.

Only one pirate wine was included: a Carmenère from Chile’s Errazuriz. The judges picked up on its rather pronounced vegetal character, but otherwise it went unnoticed in that it resembled the Merlots that came before and after it. (Not really surprising when you consider that in Chile, Merlot and Carmenère were long mistaken for one another. Lest you find this laughable, remember that up until recently producers in California still occasionally confused Merlot and Cabernet Franc in their vineyards.)

Prices and vintages varied widely.

However, we aimed for comparable average prices for the French and American

104 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

1

89.5

stAGs’ LEAP WINERY – CALIFoRNIA

2005

14.5%*

$55.25

2

89.2

CHÂtEAU CLINEt – PoMERoL

2004

13.0%

$99.00

3

89.0

CHÂtEAU LA CRoIX DE GAY – PoMERoL

2006

13.5%

$49.00

4

88.5

CHÂtEAU LE BoN PAstEUR – PoMERoL

2006

13.5%

$99.00

5

87.5

CHÂtEAU GARRAUD – LALANDE DE PoMERoL

2006

13.0%

$25.20

6

86.9

BERINGER BANCRoFt RANCH – CALIFoRNIA

2004

13.9%

$122.75

7

86.7

CHÂtEAU DE LA DAUPHINE – FRoNsAC

2006

13.5%

$29.00

7

86.7

CoNtE BRANDoLINI D’ADDA VIstoRtA – FRIULI, ItALY

2005

13.0%

$21.95

9

86.5

NEWtoN UNFILtERED MERLot – CALIFoRNIA

2002

15.5%

$57.50

10

86.3

JACKsoN-tRIGGs sUNRoCK – oKANAGAN

2005

14.3%

$39.00

11

86.1

PEPPERWooD GRoVE – CALIFoRNIA

2008

13.5%

$16.95

12

85.8

CoLUMBIA CREst GRAND EstAtEs – WAsHINGtoN stAtE

2006

13.5%

$22.05

13

85.7

QUAILs’ GAtE – oKANAGAN

2006

14.0%

$26.40

14

85.6

sHAFER – CALIFoRNIA

2006

14.9%

$57.50

15

85.5

CHÂtEAU MoULIN PEY-LABRIE – FRoNsAC

2003

12.5%

$39.25

15

85.5

toRREs AtRIUM – CAtALoNIA

2008

14.0%

$15.95

15

85.5

ERRAZURIZ EstAtE MERLot – CHILE

2009

13.5%

$14.90

18

85.3

LAstELLA MAEstoso – oKANAGAN

2006

15.3%

$95.00

19

85.2

CHRIstIAN MoUEIX – BoRDEAUX

2005

13.0%

$15.10

20

84.7

oYstER BAY – HAWKEs BAY, NEW ZEALAND

2008

13.0%

$18.90

20

84.7

FEtZER VINEYARDs – CALIFoRNIA

2008

13.5%

$15.90

22

84.3

JEAN-PIERRE MoUEIX – PoMERoL

2006

13.0%

$26.95

23

84.2

PILLIttERI EstAtEs WINERY – NIAGARA

2002

14.0%

$49.25

24

84.0

CoPPoLA DIAMoND CoLLECtIoN BLUE LABEL – CALIFoRNIA

2007

13.5%

$25.75

25

83.8

REDWooD CREEK – CALIFoRNIA

2008

13.5%

$15.90

26

83.7

VINELAND EstAtEs WINERY – NIAGARA

2006

12.5%

$19.65

26

83.7

DoMAINE DE MoULINEs – LANGUEDoC

2007

13.0%

$10.55

28

83.3

ERRAZURIZ EstAtE CARMENÈRE – CHILE

2009

13.5%

$14.95

29

83.0

B HAPPY – LANGUEDoC

2009

13.0%

$12.90

30

81.4

FoREst GLEN – CALIFoRNIA

2008

13.5%

$18.85

Prices valid as of early September 2010. Some products may still be available. Go to www.saq.com or talk to an SAQ wine advisor. *Alcohol content

WHAT THE SCORES MEAN A score of 80 corresponds to two and a half stars and denotes a good wine. At 85 (HHH), a wine is very good; at 90 (HHHH), excellent; and at 95 (HHHH 5), exceptional. there is such a thing as a perfect score (100 or five stars), but Quebec connoisseurs have picky palates and rarely award it. note that scores in blind tastings like this tend to be on the low side, as jurors are inclined to apply all of their critical faculties and employ a take-no-prisoners approach.

Technical coordinator and results compiler: Julien Chapleau. Special thanks to the judges for their time and expertise.

They Said iT

categories; Merlots in the “other countries” category were cheaper, presumably because they are less in demand and less prestigious.

Similarly, the wines were of generally corresponding vintages. Each of the three categories featured one older wine, which the judges sampled one after the other, though they were not informed of this.

Lastly, for the purposes of fairer evaluation, the judges’ tasting sheets included the vintages. This allowed the panel to, for instance, put a wine’s slightly orangey edge – normal in a six- or eight-year-old Merlot but suspect in a younger one – into context.

Photos: André doyon.

Neck aNd Neck While a California Merlot, the Stags’ Leap Winery 2005, was deemed best of the lot, four Pomerols were so hot on its heels that we have to declare France the general winner of this one. Case in point: The Château Clinet came in second but was the favourite of four of the eight judges, while only two of them preferred the Stags’ Leap. The Californian was pushed to the top by the cumulative scores; moreover, six of the judges thought it was a French wine. So this was certainly, at the least, a near tie.

STAGS’ LEAP WINERY 2005 89.5 – $55.25

CHÂTEAU GARRAUD 2006 87.5 – $25.20

PEPPERWOOD GROVE 2008 86.1 – $16.95

“Nice attack, meaty, fine tannins.”

“Spicy, almost exotic on the nose but also distinguished and taut.”

“A little heavy, lacks finesse.”

– the dissenting opinion “Ripe but not excessively so, elegant.”

“Very nice, generous, no faults.”

“Impeccable!”

“Very Bordeaux-like, fullness, freshness.”

“Has potential.”

“Stiff tannins, lacks substance.”

– the dissenting opinion “Nuanced and tight.”

“Excellent freshness, vanilla-y, sensual.”

“Lots of wood and vanilla.”

“Too come-hither, too sweet.”

– the dissenting opinion “Easy, a little sweet but rather agreeable.”

CONTE BRANDOLINI D’ADDA VISTORTA – FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA 2005 – 86.7 – $21.95

CHÂTEAU LA CROIX DE GAY 2006 – 89 – $49.00

JACKSON-TRIGGS SUNROCK – Okanagan – 2005 86.3 – $39.00

“Bordeaux style, rich, quality tannins.”

“Well, well! Tannins at last!

A nice wine. Saint-Émilion?”

“Personality, fresh, agreeable.”

“Lacks complexity, rather unpolished, drying.”

– the dissenting opinion “Leather, blackcurrant, mocha.

Has potential.”

“Elegant, tannins of finesse, still young.”

“Very upright, well structured.”

“Quite austere.”

– the (somewhat) dissenting opinion “Coffee, almost chocolate, good richness-acidity balance.”

“A nice wine, fairly long and fairly taut.”

“Jammy without sacrificing elegance.”

“Steadfastly modern, very ripe, almost sweet.”

“Silky tannins, nicely wooded.”

“Sweet, lumbering, heavy.”

– the dissenting opinion “Meaty, manipulated but not excessively.”

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

105

taste test HIGHLIGHTS n The only French wine that all the judges identified as such was the Château Le Bon

Pasteur, from a Pomerol estate owned by prominent oenologist Michel Rolland.

WHaT’S NOT TO LIke? continued >> The fact that four of the top five wines hailed from France also suggests the jury preferred the woodier, more tannic French style of Merlot. But it doesn’t necessarily follow that American Merlots are cartoonish or out of synch with Quebec palates. In addition to the Stags’ Leap, other California and Washington State wines performed very nicely in this taste test. In the category of wines from other countries, the standouts were the Vistorta from Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, which came in seventh, and two Okanagan wines that placed 10th and 13th. Incidentally, six judges thought the Vistorta was a French wine.

This was one taste test that bore out the argument there’s a correlation between price and quality. The “big guns” costing between $50 and $120 scored well overall, while the Merlots at $20 and under were lower in the rankings.

The LasT Word And what at the end of this two-hour tasting was the overall impression? Opinions were varied and often qualified. For example, here’s what Jacques Benoit of La Presse had to say: “It was a really mixed bag. On the one hand you had simple, fruity, mass-market, very middle-of-the-road wines; on the other, you had more serious wines, some of them even quite austere.” And from Élyse Lambert, Best Sommelier of the Americas 2009: “I almost never drink Merlot, preferring it in blends [for example with Cabernet Sauvignon].

That said, even the ‘small’ wines here were honest.” n Our judges were wine writers Jacques Benoit (La Presse), Gilles Bois (Tidings), Patrick Désy (Cellier) and Jacques Orhon (Vins & Vignobles); sommelier-consultant Raymond Chalifoux; sommeliers Élyse Lambert and Philip Morisset; and Simon GaudreaultRouleau of the SAQ customer development department. Marc Chapleau, Cellier editorin-chief, organized and supervised the taste test.

106 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

n On average the French Merlots had 13-percent alcohol, compared with about

14 percent for the other wines. Among the strongest were two California wines, Newton and Shafer, at 15.5 and 14.9 percent respectively, and LaStella Maestoso from the Okanagan, at 15.3 percent. The judges detected the high alcohol in all three but none of them complained that these wines presented a too-hot or burning sensation. The Californians in particular showed outstanding balance. n

LaStella Maestoso is a little-known British Columbia Merlot from an Osoyoos

winery launched in 2006 by a group of Vancouver investors that also owns Le Vieux Pin in Oliver. n

The three oldest wines didn’t exactly shine, coming in ninth, 15th and 23rd

respectively. This gives credence to the notion that Merlots, with their low acidity and tannins, don’t age that well. n Average price of the French Merlots was $41, the American ones also $41, and

those from elsewhere $31. n

Beware of confusing Stags’ Leap Winery with Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. The

former, our winner, is owned by the Australian group Foster’s. The latter was founded by Warren Winiarski and went on under him to have its Cabernet Sauvignon win the 1976 Judgment of Paris, but is now owned by a partnership of Washington State’s Chateau Ste. Michelle and Italy’s Antinori.

Though derided in some quarters for his penchant for big, rich wines, oenologist and ownerwinemaker Michel Rolland produces an excellent Pomerol, Château Le Bon Pasteur, in Bordeaux.

Harvest season in the Napa Valley Stags’ Leap district, home to about 15 wineries, one of which produced the Merlot that took the top spot in our comparative tasting. However, the district is actually better known for its Cabernet Sauvignons.

PHOTOS: IAN SHAW/CEPHAS (ROLLAND); JERRY ALEXANDER/CEPHAS (VINEYARD).

n

Château de La Dauphine often does well in our taste tests; in this one, its

n

Judges Élyse Lambert and Jacques Benoit were the best at guessing the

90-percent Merlot was again in the top 10. History also repeated itself in that the

provenance of the wines in this blind tasting. Lambert got it right with 19 of the

more modest of two wines from the same producer outranked its theoretically

wines and Benoit with 17.

better sibling – the Christian Moueix 2005 and the Jean-Pierre Moueix 2006

n

respectively. Perhaps this has to do with vintage.

tasting, for example, Cabernets; less firm tannins, simpler aromas” (Gilles

n Two excellent buys: the Château Garraud 2006 ($25.20) and the Vistorta 2005

Bois); “Generally not very grabby, low acidity, a come-hither aspect” (Patrick

($21.95), both regularly stocked by the SAQ. Keep an eye out for the next vinta-

Désy); “Merlot lacks personality, but the best ones here had more wood; they

ges too.

seemed to have spent a lot of time in wood and this gave them charm” (Simon

More of the judges’ general post-tasting thoughts: “Less stimulating than

Other very attractively priced wines that may not have ranked near the top

Gaudreault-Rouleau); “This tasting confirmed my perception that Merlot produ-

but that the judges nevertheless liked: the Atrium 2008 from Spain’s Torres

ces fruity wines, period, except when they’re enhanced with a tiny hint of Brett

($15.95), the Errazuriz Estate Merlot 2009 from Chile ($14.90) and the really

or wood” (Raymond Chalifoux).

inexpensive Domaine de Moulines 2007 from Languedoc, at just $10.55.

n Immediately after the tasting, intrigued that six of the eight judges thought the

Sampling the 2008 de Moulines would have been an interesting exercise; how-

Stags’ Leap was French, taste-test organizer Marc Chapleau himself blind tasted

ever, it did not become available until some time after our taste test in early

the Stags’ Leap and second-place finisher Château Clinet, a Pomerol. His self-

summer.

assigned task was simply to determine which was which, by smelling and tast-

n The two wines from Chile – the Merlot and the one pirate wine in the taste test,

ing them – and he got it wrong too. “The American Merlot may have more alcohol

the Carmenère – were pegged as such by seven of the eight judges. They recog-

but it’s superbly integrated, you couldn’t ask for a more digestible wine,” he

nized the distinctive characteristics (vegetal, eucalyptus) typical of Chile’s reds.

exclaimed. “Amazing how humbling blind tasting can be.”

n

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

107

Mendoza, Argentina

Southern Seduction

endless sunshine and heat, lush greenery, snow-capped mountains‌ Add a chilled aperitif, and you have the magic that is Mendoza. Plus you can get there from here with next to no jet lag.

wine wayfarer TRAvEL nORTH in THis PART Of THE wORLd, And iT gETs wARMER. fOR QuEbEcERs, THE ARgEnTiniAn PROvincE Of MEndOzA is A TORRid And ExOTic dEsTinATiOn, OffERing bREATHTAking scEnERY And vAsT visTAs Of vinEYARds.

By Raymond Chalifoux

PHOTO: JEREMY HOARE/ALAMY.

I

’ve had the pleasure of visiting Mendoza twice, most recently a few months ago. Situated in west-central Argentina bordering the foothills of the Andes, it is a region of valleys and plateaus with a desert climate. First irrigated by the indigenous Huarpe people with water from streams that flow down the mountains, Mendoza produces three-quarters of Argentina’s wine.

But unlike California’s Napa Valley or Sonoma County, wine, restaurants and upscale lodgings aren’t the only draws.

Mendoza boasts five mountains that rise to more than 6,000 metres, including Aconcagua, “the Colossus of America;”

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

109

wine wayfarer Southern Seduction continued >>

LoCaL Cuisine Beef: Argentina’s beef lives up to its reputation – it’s superb! Shunning cross-breeding, cattle ranchers here have preserved the purity of the world-famous Aberdeen Angus, brought over from Scotland in the 19th century. empanadas: Single-serving turnovers with a pastry crust and meat-and-vegetable filling with added tomato sauce. Much tastier than those found in Quebec.

Asado criollo: Barbecued veal and kid. tortitas raspadas: Dry cookies made with flour and beef dripping.

Patitas aliñadas: Spiced veal or beef shank. ternera con cuero: Veal cooked in its skin. there’s nothing like a beer, and maybe some empanadas, to refresh the palate after a day of wine tasting.

semi-lunar landscapes dotted with crystalclear lakes darting with cold-water fish; two churning rivers perfect for whitewater rafting; and countless hiking trails. And horseback-riding opportunities abound too; you can spend anywhere from a few hours to a week making like a cowboy with authentic gauchos as your guides.

And incidentally, photo safaris in Mendoza are downright amazing, given the area’s 300 days a year of sunshine, zero pollution and incomparable light.

In my opinion, guidebooks don’t stress this strongly enough.

Wine-GroWinG Centre Nestled at 800 metres up in the Andean foothills, Mendoza is also a city, the capital

110 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

Alfajores: Rich cookies filled with jam, marmalade and so on. dulce de leche: Traditional milk caramel made from sweetened milk.

Mate: An energy drink. Call it the Red Bull of gauchos.

of the province of the same name. It has a population of about 100,000 which jumps to a million when the suburbs are included.

Founded by Spanish conquistadors in 1561 and named for the then-governor, Mendoza was 10th in a 2008 National Geographic Traveler ranking of historic destinations. Montreal, by contrast, came in at 32nd in the list of 109 cities.

It was quite the feat considering that not a single building from the colonial era survives in Mendoza. Located in a very active seismic zone, the city was almost completely demolished by an earthquake in 1861, exactly 300 years after its founding.

People were so traumatized by that event that the rebuilding plans featured large open spaces – to become parks –

and very wide streets and sidewalks to provide safety for residents in the event of another quake. As a result, Mendoza boasts Argentina’s widest avenues and sidewalks. It was also proclaimed the nation’s “cleanest city” in 2007.

BodeGa tours Mendoza’s wine-producing zone, roughly a 50-by-25-kilometre trapezoid, lies south of the capital. According to Quebec-based wine importer Alain Lord (see Travel Tips), there are about 1,000 wineries in the area and their numbers keep increasing. More than 100 are open to the public but their ability to handle visitors varies considerably.

Making an appointment is imperative: Mendoza isn’t Napa, where tasting rooms

PHOTOS: YADID LEVY/ROBERT HARDING WORLD IMAGERY/CORBIS (FOOD); JON ARNOLD IMAGES LTD/ALAMY (MENDOZA); MICHAEL LEWIS/CORBIS (CLUB TAPIZ).

Left, Mendoza at dawn.

It’s a leafy city, though in this desert climate trees owe their very existence to irrigation. Below, Club Tapiz, an upscale inn and restaurant just outside Mendoza.

are well staffed and open 10 hours a day year-round.

I suggest visiting the key players whose names are familiar because their wines are sold in Quebec, such as Catena Zapata, Finca Flichman, Terrazas de los Andes, Norton, Trapiche, Familia Zuccardi, Clos de los Siete, Lagarde and Fabre Montmayou.

But check out some of the smaller producers too, like Dominio del Plata, Finca Agostino and Finca Decero. For research ahead of your trip, the second volume of Jacques Orhon’s Les vins du Nouveau Monde (Éditions de l’Homme, 2008) is helpful as it devotes more than 100 pages to Argentina’s wine scene.

It’s worth noting that people throughout the Argentinian wine industry have a soft spot for Quebecers and the Quebec market, which has proved very profitable for them.

So right from the get-go, mention where you’re from.

Lodging Accommodations in Mendoza run the gamut from $600-a-night luxury hotels

offering vinotherapy treatments and Thai massages to backpacker dorms, bed-and-breakfasts, apartments in the city and small cottages in the countryside or mountains.

Backpacking the region in 2008, a friend of mine stayed at Chimbas Suites Hostel, near the main bus station in the

city of Mendoza, for $15 a night. It was, he said, impeccable.

Alternatively, if you want to sleep in vineyard accommodations and are willing to shell out for the privilege, the possibilities include Cavas Wine Lodge, Club Tapiz, Le Terrada Suites, Finca Adalgisa, Lares de Chacras and Postales del Plata. n

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

111

wine wayfarer 1.

1. Postales del Plata lodge in the Valle de Uco. 2. Cavas Wine Lodge.

3. Barbecuing is big throughout Mendoza. 4. The classic Argentinian steak with chimichurri sauce, often served with a local Malbec that’s tannic and spicy.

3.

4.

2.

112 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

the andes form a backdrop to many mendoza-area vineyards, such as bodega norton here. the nets are meant to protect the vines from hail as well as shade them from extreme sunlight.

Southern Seduction continued >> Travel Tips Alain Lord owns Julia Wine, a company in Compton, Quebec, that bottles highquality New World wines for grocery stores – private imports, if you will, but on a large scale. His late father, who was active in real estate and trade as well,

PHOTOs: ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY LTD/ALAMY (POsTALEs DEL PLATA); CORBIs (BODEGA NORTON). jEREMY HOARE /ALAMY (CAvAs wINE LODGE); BLOOMBERG vIA GETTY IMAGEs (BARBECUE); OLIvER sCHwARzwALD/sTOCKFOOD (sTEAK).

started the South American division of the firm. The proprietor of so-called industrial wineries that aren’t open to the public, Lord travels to Chile and Argentina

n FieSta nacional de la vendimia

several times a year. He shares some tips:

The end of the grape harvest in Mendoza signals the start of one of Argentina’s

n GettinG there

most popular festivals, Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia. Similar in spirit to the

By air, Mendoza is more than 1,000 kilometres from Buenos Aires but barely

Quebec Winter Carnival, it has fireworks, folklore displays, athletic contests,

200 kilometres from Santiago, Chile, so the best bet is to fly via Santiago, which

food-and-wine events and the like. No less than the president of Argentina

offers frequent and relatively cheap flights to Mendoza. Should you decide to drive

attends the opening ceremonies at Mendoza’s open-air amphitheatre. Vendimia,

between Santiago and Mendoza instead, plan for a full day’s journey and expect

you might say, is a celebration of wine, women and song: A harvest queen is

some spectacular scenery along the way.

chosen from 17 candidates from the province’s 17 zones, although Mendoza’s

n When to Go

candidate isn’t eligible as she reigns as Vendimia’s supreme hostess. The festival

The best time is between December 1 and March 10. Grapes are harvested in

starts on the first Saturday in March and you can get a taste of it by typing

March and April, but while that may seem inviting, winemakers are too swamped

“Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia” in the YouTube search bar.

with work then to pay attention to visitors. May is too cool and sometimes rainy.

n GettinG around

Mind you, winters in the southern hemisphere aren’t so bad: On a good day, the

Rather than renting a car or motorbike, Lord advises hiring a private taxi and

temperature can reach 15°C.

driver who, for either an hourly rate or about $30 a day, will take you where you

n SieSta Savvy

want to go. The hotel concierge is usually a good bet to recommend someone.

Practise the fine art of the siesta before your visit, advises Lord. “In this country,

You’ll soon learn that these drivers know all the ins and outs of Mendoza as well

nothing happens between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. Everything’s closed.”

as its must-see attractions.

n a Word to the WiSe

more inFo

Winery properties in Mendoza are immense, and when you consider the value of

n lodGinG

the wines in their cellars, the fact that they have a couple of security guards on

www.welcomeargentina.com

the premises makes sense. Not to worry, though: The armed guards at the pre-

n Wine tourS

mium bodegas may bark, but they don’t bite.

www.sayhueque.com

n appointmentS

www.mendozaholidays.com

Always call ahead to make an appointment before visiting a winery. It’s a must.

www.troutandwine.com

n Favourite hotel

www.wine-republic.com

If you plan to stay in Mendoza, Lord strongly recommends the boutique hotel

n horSeback ridinG

Villaggio, an affordable four-star establishment with a great location near

www.kahuak.com.ar

Independence Square.

www.trekkingtravel.com.ar

CELLIER winter 2010-2011 n

113

SAQ SÉLECTION OuTLETS All products in the New Arrivals section of CELLIER are available in limited quantities at SAQ Sélection outlets and at SAQ.com.

For product availability: visit SAQ.com or any SAQ Sélection outlet listed or call SAQ Customer Service: 514-254-2020 in Montreal, 1-866-873-2020 elsewhere. n ALMA Alma outlet 555 du Pont Ave. north 418-668-4657

n GRANBY Granby outlet 20 Simonds St. north 450-378-6808

n MONTREAL Ahuntsic outlet 8405 Papineau St. 514-728-7808

n RIMOUsKI rimouski outlet 333 rené-Lepage Blvd. east 418-723-2611

n sAINTE-AGATHE-dEs-MONTs Sainte-Agathe-des-Monts outlet 701 Main St. (rte. 117) 819-326-8411

n BEAUPORT Beauport outlet 205 Joseph Casavant Ave. 418-666-4949

n GREENFIELd PARK taschereau outlet 3654 taschereau Blvd.

450-466-2141

Art de vivre outlet Centre Forum Pepsi 2313 Sainte-Catherine St. west 514-935-9414

n RIVIÈRE-dU-LOUP rivière-du-Loup outlet 235B Hôtel-de-Ville St. 418-862-0299

n BELOEIL Beloeil outlet 522 Laurier Blvd.

450-467-2161

n ÎLE-dEs-sOEURs Île-des-Soeurs outlet 44 Place du Commerce 514-766-4432

n ROsEMÈRE rosemère outlet 315 Labelle Blvd.

450-437-1855

n sAINTE-FOY Place-naviles outlet 3400 Des Quatre-Bourgeois rd.

418-656-0244 Signature outlet Sélection Sainte-Foy 2828, Laurier Blvd.

418-692-1182

n BLAINVILLE Blainville outlet 259 de la Seigneurie Blvd. west 450-434-9164

n ÎLE PERROT Île Perrot outlet 106 Don Quichotte Blvd.

514-453-2632

n ROUYN-NORANdA rouyn-noranda outlet 45 Dallaire St. 819-762-1402

n sAINTE-JULIE Sainte-Julie outlet 1700 Fer à Cheval rd.

450-649-6564

n BOIsBRIANd Boisbriand outlet 2735 D’Annemasse St. 450-437-4772

n JOLIETTE Galeries Joliette outlet 975 Firestone Blvd.

450-752-4011 Joliette outlet (Downtown) 600 notre-Dame St. 450-759-8848

n sAINT-BRUNO Saint-Bruno outlet 1380 roberval St. 450-653-2051

n sALABERRY-dE-VALLEYFIELd Salaberry-de-Valleyfield outlet 2150 Monseigneur-Langlois Blvd.

450-377-8332

n sAINT-EUsTACHE Saint-eustache outlet 431 Arthur-Sauvé Blvd.

450-473-3300

n sEPT-ÎLEs Sept-Îles outlet 649 Laure Blvd.

418-962-6255

n sAINT-GEORGEs Saint-Georges outlet 8984 Lacroix Blvd.

418-228-2611

n sHERBROOKE Sherbrooke outlet 2475 King St. west 819-348-9639 Sherbrooke outlet (Downtown) 30 King St. west 819-822-2262

n BOUCHERVILLE Boucherville outlet 556 de Mortagne Blvd.

450-655-3521 n BROssARd Brossard outlet 8300 taschereau Blvd.

450-466-3634 Quartier Dix30 outlet 7200 Lepage Blvd.

Suite 80 450-656-6254 n CANdIAC Carrefour Candiac outlet 220, rue Strasbourg 450-619-9255 n CAP-ROUGE Cap-rouge outlet 1103 de la Chaudière Blvd.

418-653-1788 n CHAMBLY Chambly outlet 1285 de Périgny Blvd.

450-658-8222 n CHARLEsBOURG Charlesbourg outlet 9115 Henri-Bourassa Blvd.

418-628-5567 n CHÂTEAUGUAY Châteauguay outlet 88 d’Anjou Blvd.

450-699-7403 n CHICOUTIMI Chicoutimi outlet 1075 talbot Blvd.

418-543-4011 n dORVAL Dorval outlet 875 Carson St. 514-631-4122 n dRUMMONdVILLE Drummondville outlet 695 Saint-Joseph Blvd.

819-478-8184 n GATINEAU Galeries Gatineau outlet 948 Maloney Blvd. west 819-561-3911 Gatineau outlet 31 du Plateau Blvd.

819-772-9582 Hull outlet 705 de la Carrière Blvd.

819-777-1944

n JONQUIÈRE Jonquière outlet 3821 Harvey Blvd. east 418-542-6301 n KIRKLANd Kirkland outlet 2955 Saint-Charles Blvd.

514-694-2042 n LA MALBAIE La Malbaie outlet 375 de Comporté Blvd.

418-665-3676 n LAsALLE newman outlet 7955 newman Blvd.

514-364-4343 n LAVAL 19/440 outlet 5040 Val-des-Brises Blvd. (corner Highway 19 and Highway 440) 450-661-1137 Centropolis outlet 2040 Pierre-Péladeau Ave. 450-978-3189 Chomedey outlet 555 Curé-Labelle Blvd.

450-681-7967 Sainte-Dorothée outlet 1096 Chomedey (Autoroute 13) 450-969-4146 Vimont outlet 2114 Laurentian Blvd.

450-669-1911 n LÉVIs Lévis outlet 50 President Kennedy 418-835-0946 Saint-nicolas outlet 420 du Pont rd.

418-831-3100

Atwater outlet 155 Atwater Ave. 514-932-2574 Beaubien outlet 900 Beaubien St. east 514-270-1776 De la Pointe outlet 13110 Sherbrooke St. east 514-642-5717 De Maisonneuve outlet 440 De Maisonneuve Blvd. west 514-873-2274 Henri-Bourassa outlet 450 Henri-Bourassa Blvd. west 514-336-4266 Laurier outlet 390 Laurier Ave. west 514-271-7010 Le Boulevard outlet 4152 Jean-talon St. east 514-721-1039 Mont-royal outlet 1690 Mont-royal Ave. east 514-521-8230 radisson outlet 7550 Sherbrooke St. east 514-256-9134 Saint-Jacques outlet 6630 Saint-Jacques St. 514-488-7049 westmount outlet 4833 Sherbrooke St. west 514-483-1355 n MONTREAL NORTH Place-Bourassa outlet 6000 Henri-Bourassa Blvd. east 514-329-1222 n MONT-ROYAL rockland outlet 2305 rockland rd.

514-733-6414 n MONT-TREMBLANT Saint-Jovite outlet 1122 Saint-Jovite St. 819-425-6301 n PIERREFONds Pierrefonds outlet 4777 Saint-Jean Blvd.

514-626-2972 n POINTE-CLAIRE Fairview outlet 6815 trans-Canada Hwy. 514-695-2236

n LONGUEUIL Chemin de Chambly outlet 2403 Chambly rd.

450-468-0540 Longueuil outlet 1611 roland-therrien Blvd.

450-468-3811

n QUEBEC CITY Galeries de la Capitale outlet 5401 des Galeries Blvd.

418-623-6063 Les Saules outlet 5015 de l’Ormière Blvd.

418-877-7059 Place-Jean-Lesage outlet 400 Jean-Lesage Blvd.

418-643-4339

n MAGOG Magog outlet 790 Main St. west 819-843-4543

n REPENTIGNY repentigny outlet 319 notre-Dame St. 450-654-6260

114 n CELLIER winter 2010-2011

n sAINT-HUBERT Complexe Cousineau outlet 5970 Cousineau Blvd.

450-676-9876 n sAINT-HYACINTHE Saint-Hyacinthe outlet 3320 Laframboise Blvd.

450-773-4554 n sAINT-JEAN-sUR-RICHELIEU Saint-Jean-sur-richelieu outlet 600 Pierre-Caisse St. 450-348-6411 n sAINT-JÉRÔME Saint-Jérôme outlet Carrefour du nord 800 Grignon Blvd.

450-438-4662 n sAINT-LAMBERT Saint-Lambert outlet 289 Sir-wilfrid-Laurier Blvd.

450-671-3574 n sAINT-LAURENT Saint-Laurent outlet 1919 Marcel-Laurin Blvd.

514-744-6628 n sAINT-sAUVEUR Saint-Sauveur outlet 75 de la Gare Ave. 450-227-4338 n sAINTE-AdÈLE Sainte-Adèle outlet 1145 Sainte-Adèle Blvd.

450-229-7673

n sOREL Sorel outlet 340 Poliquin Blvd.

450-746-2711 n TERREBONNE terrebonne outlet 1100 des Seigneurs Blvd. east 450-471-9180 n TROIs-RIVIÈREs Des récollets outlet 3650 Jacques-de-Labadie St. 819-374-5944 n VAL-d’OR Val-d’Or outlet 1801 3rd Ave. 819-825-6309 n VARENNEs Varennes outlet 1797 rte. 132 450-652-9279 n VAUdREUIL-dORION Vaudreuil outlet 585 Saint-Charles Ave. 450-455-9347 n VICTORIAVILLE Grande-Placedes-Bois-Francs outlet 1081 Jutras Blvd. east 819-357-7116

�� ��� ���� ���� ����� �� ��� ������ ï¿½Í Í ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ï¿½ �� ��� ���� ��� �� ������� ͡�Ǥ� ����� � ���ǫ ��� ��� ������ ������� ������ ���� �� ��� ��� ��� ��� ����� �ơ�� ��� ��������� ��� ���������� �� ������� ����� ��� ���� ��� ������� ����� ��� ��������������� �� ��� �� ����Ǥ

���� ��� ����� �� ��������� ͡

VINS DE WASHINGTON WASHINGTON WINES

���Ǥ��������������Ǥ���