Harvest
Home Grown Harvest • The Essex Reporter & Colchester Sun • B1
Home Grown
A seasonal, sweet
& sentimental dessert
By COURTNEY LAMDIN
I
’ve never considered myself much of a baker, but when the fall season sets in, I want nothing more than to be cozy with a book, a mug of tea and something sweet. Autumn is apple time in Vermont, and I wanted to attempt a baking project that’s both seasonal and sentimental: my late grandmother’s Quick Apple Torte. My paternal grandmother, Susi, came here as a refugee from Austria in 1938 at age 12. Her family settled in Boston, where she grew up, and later, against the dictates of the times, graduated from Radcliffe College and Harvard Medical School, where she met my grandfather. The story goes she didn’t know how to boil an egg when they were married. The tale was told and retold around countless Thanksgiving, Hanukkah and Passover dinner tables as she spooned out helpings of tzimmes, brisket or matzo ball soup. It was unbelievable to me as a young girl as I took in the delicacy of her signature Viennese desserts: mohr im hemd, dobostorte, mannheimer apfel. She had clearly learned to cook somewhere along the way. When she died of brain cancer four years ago, I inherited a few pieces of her jewelry, some fancy dishware, a teapot I don’t remember her using. But all I really wanted were her recipes. For me, family and food spell tradition, and even though we don’t have Thanksgiving, Hanukkah or Passover with her anymore, I feel transported when I taste my dad’s versions of her recipes. Last fall, I finally asked to borrow her handwritten recipe cards to scan and save for my own collection. I downloaded an app and spent several days taking photos of the cards, some of them in German I have no hope of translating on my own. This weekend, with a bag of McIntosh from
A celebration of all things local from the Essex Reporter & Colchester Sun FALL 2017
Inside: Q&A with Essex cookbook author Tracey Medeiros
Fall recipe from Colchester blogger Nancy Mock
Apple-picking at Chapin Orchard
PHOTO BY COLIN FLANDERS
Essex Reporter/Colchester Sun executive editor Courtney Lamdin peels apples to make her late grandmother's Quick Apple Torte, a seasonal and sentimental recipe. Chapin Orchard in Essex, I decided to make her torte. I don’t remember her baking it, but it seemed a bit easier than others, many of which call for ground nuts, and I don’t have a nut grinder or food processor.
With the exception of whipping cream for the topping, the ingredients were ones I already had at home. Apples, brown sugar, lemon juice, flour, salt, cinnamon, sugar, egg. See TORTE, page B4
B2 •
The Essex Reporter & Colchester Sun • Home Grown Harvest
A natural
progression
F
ood writer Tracey Medeiros of Essex just published her latest book, this one focusing on recipes made with non-genetically modified organisms. “The Vermont NonGMO Cookbook” adds to Medeiros' growing collection, which includes “The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook,” “The Vermont
Farm Table Cookbook” and “Dishing Up Vermont.” Medeiros is also a freelance food writer, food stylist and recipe developer and tester. She travels regionally as a guest speaker and cooking instructor, emphasizing her commitment to the sustainable food movement by using locally produced fresh ingredients to create dishes that are both healthy and delicious. We asked Medeiros a few questions about her latest cookbook. Here’s how
she responded. ESSEX REPORTER/ COLCHESTER SUN: What inspired you to create a book dedicated to using non-GMO products? TRaCEy MEdEiROS: I have always strived to purchase fresh locally grown food. Food that is grown in the healthiest manner possible. It is of paramount importance for me to know what is in the food I feed myself and my family and
Essex cookbook author Tracey Medeiros focuses on non-GMOs in her latest published work COURTESY PHOTO
how it is grown. The more I chatted with folks at book signings and gatherings, the more I realized that many other people felt the same way as I did – they also wanted to know what was in their food. My visits with our food community made me very much aware of their feelings of commitment to consumers and Vermont's farmland and the idea for my latest book, “The Vermont Non- GMO Cookbook,” was born.
our planet as well as the consumer. ER/CS: In the back of the cookbook is a directory that includes information on each of its contributors, along with their websites and telephone numbers. How did you pick your subjects? TM: I was drawn to the folks that are profiled
ER/CS: What can people expect to learn by picking up your book?
Vermont Family Business SINCE 1940
Strictly fresh eggs •
• wholesale & retail • at your favorite market •
1348 Blakely Road, Colchester • 802-655-0444
150 Chapin Road, Essex Center, VT Follow signs from Junction of Rte. 15 & 128
WE ARE OPEN! COMMUNITY OUTREACH • We provide apples to the Essex School Systems. • We are coordinating with Essex Free Library and will be hosting apple tastings later this season. • Field Trips at Chapin orchards have been a great community resource for over 30 years!
At Chapin Orchard our mission is to produce high quality fruit and farm products using management practices that encourage a sustainable orchard environment. Our goal is to provide customers with healthy and good tasting fruit and cider made right here in Essex, Vermont.
“ Farmer Jim’s” Mother’s
Apple Raisin Cake
◉ 3 1/2 cups coarsely chopped apples ◉ 1 1/2 cups packed brown sugar ◉ 1 cup oil ◉ 2 eggs, beaten ◉ 1 tsp baking soda ◉ 2 tsp baking powder ◉ 1 tsp salt ◉ 3 cups flour ◉ 2 tsp cinnamon ◉ 1 tsp nutmeg ◉ 1 cup raisins plumped in warm water ◉ 1 cup chopped nuts Put apples and brown sugar in bowl. Add oil and eggs. Add dry ingredients and mix well (dough is stiff). Add drained raisins and nuts. Bake in greased 9x 13 inch pan at 350 degrees for 50 minutes.
We’re open 7 days a week, 9:30-5:30. 879-6210 • www.ChapinOrchard.com
TM: People will learn about the non-GMO movement and be introduced to "Rural Vermont," one of the first organizations to raise awareness of genetically engineered crops. The reader finds out about Vermont's historic labeling law, its nullification and the movement that was created from that campaign. Folks will find ideas for serving healthy, delicious foods using recipes that will make a difference in the foods that you eat. Along with these recipes, people will be introduced to Vermont’s organic farms, food producers and restaurants whose chefs are committed to cooking with non-GMO ingredients. Their stories are found throughout the book in a profile format. We learn that transparency in our food system benefits both
featured chefs and restaurants support these movements on their menus. ER/CS: List your top three recipes. TM: Northern Lake Fish Chowder found on page 65. The sweet, crisp flavors of the hard apple cider provide the perfect counterpoint to the smoky flavor of the lake fish and smooth, velvety texture from the cream and fish stock. The Apple-Raspberry Pie found on page 307 is a beautiful rustic dessert. Honey-Glazed Pork Bellies found on page 185: These have a succulent, melt-in your mouth texture and a wonderful rich flavor. ER/CS: Did you learn anything new through your research?
because of their universal devotion to their communities and the state of Vermont. They are concerned about the health of our planet and its inhabitants and are doing all that they can to connect consumers to healthy food, while also caring for the soil in which it is grown. They each believe that it is everyone’s right to know where their food comes from and what is in their food. All subjects are either certified organic or non-GMO or both. The
Northern Lake Fish Chowder Ingredients 1/4 lb. thick-cut bacon, diced into small pieces • 1 oz. butter • 1/2 lb. carrots, peeled, trimmed and diced into medium pieces • 1/2 lb. leeks, cleaned, trimmed, and thinly sliced • 1/2 pound celery root, peeled, trimmed and diced into medium pieces • 1 Tbsp chopped garlic • 1 Tbsp fresh assorted herbs, such as parley, tarragon, thyme, sage, or rosemary, minced, plus extra for garnish • 1/2 C hard apple cider • 1 1/2 qt. fish stock, warmed • 1/2 lb. potatoes peeled and cut into 1⁄2-in. pieces • 1 C organic heavy cream, warmed • 1 1/4 lbs. applewood smoked lake fish, such as walleye, or trout, pin bones removed and cut into 2-inch pieces • 1 1/4 C fresh or frozen corn kernels • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste • Baby red sorrel, for garnish, optional
TM: I learned many things from my research most importantly, the amazing number of folks who want to know what is in their food. Even though the Vermont non-GMO labeling law was nullified, folks still want transparency so they can make informed decisions about what they should eat. Medeiros will host a meetand-greet and book-signing event at Phoenix Books Essex on Sunday, Dec. 10 from 1-2:30 p.m. To learn more about the author and her books, visit www.traceymedeiros.com.
From "The Vermont Non-GMO Cookbook" (Skyhorse Publishing, October 2017) by Tracey Medeiros; Serves 6
Method In a large, heavy-bottom stockpot, cook the bacon over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 8 minutes. Remove the bacon from the pot with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels, reserving the drippings in the pot. Melt the butter in the same stockpot with the reserved bacon drippings over medium heat. Add the carrots, leeks, and celery root. Cook, stirring often, until the leeks are very tender, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and herbs and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the hard apple cider. Cook until reduced by half, stirring frequently, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and potatoes and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook until the potatoes are fork tender, about 15 minutes. Slowly add the warm cream, fish, and corn. Simmer until the fish is heated through and the corn is tender, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with reserved bacon, herbs, and baby red Swiss chard, if desired.
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Home Grown Harvest • The Essex Reporter & Colchester Sun • B3
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It's pIckIn' tIme
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SUMMER SQUASH
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Fruit & Vegetable Stand
182 River Rd. • Essex • 879-3760 FP-0000415209
PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: 1) Chapin Orchard features many varieties of apples at the pick-your-own spot. 2) Antha Huffines, of Burlington, picks apples at Chapin Orchard on Friday, Oct. 6. 3) Essex residents Justin Baker, left, and Josh St. Hilaire picked apples from the tree tops.
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Ingredients • 3 C diced or shredded hash-brown style frozen potatoes • 1 14.5-oz. can sliced beets, diced • 3/4 C onion, diced • 1-1/2 C deli-sliced corned beef, diced • 1/2 C milk • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp pepper • 1/2 tsp hot sauce • 2 Tbsp canola oil Method 1. Combine in a large bowl the frozen potatoes, diced beets, diced onion and diced corned beef. 2. Add in the milk, salt, pepper and hot sauce and stir to thoroughly combine. 3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Spread the mixture over the bottom of the skillet in an even layer. 4. Cook the layer for about 10 minutes to form a brown crust – occasionally slide a spatula under the hash and lift slightly to check that it is not burning. Adjust the
GRAPE TOMATOES
Paul Mazza’s
Fall means apple season, and many varieties – from McIntosh to red delicious to empire – are ripe for the picking at Chapin Orchards in Essex. The orchard recently donated 45 bushels of apples to various local food shelves and 30 to the Vermont Foodbank. Members of the Essex Rotary helped distribute the bags to the community shelves.
Yankee Red Flannel Hash
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heat if necessary. Lift and fold the hash, and continue cooking for another 10 minutes or until the hash is cooked and there are browned bits throughout. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper and serve immediately.
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The Essex Reporter & Colchester Sun • Home Grown Harvest
TORTE from page B1 I set my metal mixing bowl and whisk attachment in the freezer, a tip I’ve picked up along the way to make better whipped cream. I then gathered the dry ingredients, using measuring cups in the shape of Russian nesting dolls in another small tribute to Susi; she had a few in her home, and they always remind me of her. Next was peeling the apples, the most tedious and my least favorite step. To keep them from browning, the recipe called for placing them in a bowl with lemon juice and water. On top of this, I sprinkled a hearty dash of cinnamon and mixed in a whole cup of brown sugar. Preheating the oven to 350, I started making the crumbly topping of white sugar, salt, flour and a beaten egg. I’m familiar with apple crisp toppings that use oats and butter, but I trusted her judgment. The recipe didn’t say to grease the 8x8 pan, but I did just in case. I set my creation in the oven for 30 minutes, covered, and then removed the tinfoil after another 30 minutes. I pulled it out of the oven with anticipation of a mess but instead found something that looked generally edible and smelled delicious. Setting it on the stovetop to cool, I removed the bowl and whisk from the freezer, poured in heavy cream, sugar and vanilla and set my KitchenAid stand mixer to high, checking frequently for the requisite stiff peaks. Spooning out the torte, I was glad I’d used that spray of canola oil: The edges were a crispy golden brown of caramelized brown sugar. A plop of whipped cream and another dash of cinnamon, and I was done. I never cooked much with my grandmother, but I felt comforted with each bite of the sweet apple treat. It was a good beginning to meet my goal of carrying out her memory, one scanned index card at a time.
PHOTOS BY COLIN FLANDERS
Essex Reporter/Colchester Sun executive editor Courtney Lamdin prepares her late grandmother's Quick Apple Torte, a seasonal and sentimental recipe.
Susi’s Quick Apple Torte Preparation time: 15 minutes • Cook time: 60 minutes • Serves 4-6
Ingredients • 1 quart apples (about 3-4 medium apples), peeled and sliced thin • 1 C brown sugar • 1 Tbsp. lemon juice • ¼ C water • dash cinnamon • ½ to 1 C white sugar, to taste • 1 C flour, sifted • ½ tsp. salt • 1 egg, beaten • 1 C whipping cream • 1 Tbsp. sugar • ½ tsp. pure vanilla extract
Method 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. Freeze metal mixing bowl and whisk. 3. Combine apples with brown sugar, lemon juice, water and cinnamon. Stir and place in lightly greased 8x8 baking pan. 4. In separate bowl, combine sifted flour with sugar and salt. Beat egg and add to mix-
ture, combining until crumbles are formed. Top apple mixture. 5. Place in oven 30 minutes, covered. Remove foil and bake another 30 minutes, then remove to cool. 6. Meanwhile, remove mixing tools. Add whipping cream, sugar and vanilla. Beat on high until stiff peaks form. 7. Spoon out torte and top with whipped cream (or ice cream). Enjoy!
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