S E C O N D
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S E N S E
SS19 XXXII
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www.estelamag.com
MASTHEAD
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF + CREATIVE DIRECTOR JUNIOR EDITOR SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER JUNIOR PHOTOGRAPHER SENIOR FEATURES EDITOR JUNIOR FEATURES EDITOR EDITOR
BLASINA SALAM FAIYAZ KOLIA RAPHAEL BAKER NICHOLAS WARE M.A. SALAM MOONI S. FARAH AKBAR
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS pol kurucz ALEjandro ramirez ashish chawla florencia valentini reinhardt kenneth
CONTRIBUTING EDITORs sonam naidu
COVER IMAGE 1 PHOTOGRAPHY reinhardt kenneth
fashion by diana couture
SPECIAL THANKS TO flying solo nyc
ISSN 2573-6272 Estela Magazine 2019
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EDITOR’S NOTE
“The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and all science. He to whom this emotion is a stranger, who can no longer pause to wonder and stand rapt in awe, is as good as dead: his eyes are closed.”
—ALBERT EINSTEIN
The designers that make up this season’s LineUp share their visions for spring through effortless storytelling in the form of their latest collections and getting the chance to experience their impeccable craftsmanship is an honor. Learning about their various processes, their recounts of aha moments and little self-discoveries really solidifies what it means to be an artist in a world that’s bent on diluting creativity. With these stories, our hope is to help share these experiences and educate those who dismiss the love and devotion that are poured into creating what they simply perceive as “just clothing”. We also hope you’ll enjoy the moods of the epic editorials captured from our favorite photographers, as well as a couple of newcomers we’re excited to host. Welcome to “Second Sense - the Visionary issue”!
PEACE +
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CON TENTS 10 40 50 56 64 72 80 88
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the lineup ss19 tidal echoes hail the goddess ganga when we become stardust capture moi neon desgastado bor3d. more is more
GET YOUR COPIES
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ADRIANA SAHAR adam selman
ASOS
nike
LIME CRIME Refreshing, ultra-bold, and attention grabbing, you’d truly be up for questioning by the fashion police if you didn’t own at least one staple in this season’s highlighter hue.
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fujifilm
beguen
jacquemus
farfetch
natasha zinko RAYE
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LINEUP THE
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editor SONAM NAIDU fashion editor blasina salam Photographer nick ware hairstylists KELLI J & NINA LEE ESTELA | 11
E L I A S G U
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Brilliantly perceiving his clothes through a romantic futurist lens, Elias Gurrola is influenced by the intricate design held by nature which conceives the mashup of his graceful and unexpected creations. Whether it be water freezing into a crystal, the symmetry of an interlocking skeleton, the way the color changes down a rocky dune in Arizona or a jellyfish moving through water, he is continuously moved by organic behavior. With an unremitting desire to astonish and graciously imprint his pioneering statement, Elias whole-heartedly imparts the essence of his ‘American Beauty’ collection.
R R O L A I wanted to focus on all of the people that make America beautiful, no matter who they are or what they identify as. We live in what can feel like a very isolating time where we are being pulled apart for our differences; it felt necessary to comment on MUSE SONAM PATEL (EI MODELS)
this for my S/S collection.” ESTELA | 13
Tell us about how you came to become a fashion designer.
Tell us about your personal favorite piece/look in your new collection and why?
For a short time in my teens, I actually thought I would aspire to work in Architecture. Growing up as the son of a farmer I have always been inspired by form and nature. Architecture took those things I loved and gave me a medium to express them in. It wasn’t until I was in high school (specializing in design) that I realized that I wanted to express all those ideas on the body.
In the collection there is a yellow pleated jumpsuit. Which is so far from what I imagined it to be when I drew it up on the train. While looking for fabric I stumbled upon these gorgeous bolts of linen, one striped, one plaid, and thought “How fun! If I pleat this plaid it’ll look like the stripe, but when the wearer moves it’ll reveal itself as something different”.
Our fashion teacher, Mrs. Pringle would play Alexander McQueen and John Galliano fashion shows during our first year of high school as a teaser for the what we could expect in the program. Never had I seen such dark and twisted beauty, these grand and elaborate stories being told on the runway, it was (and still is) amazing. I was hooked, and from then on, I couldn’t imagine doing anything else.
My friend, Gislane was a big part in helping me get this capsule together, she helped me a few weekends in a row. I gave her the task of pleating the linen, not entirely knowing how much I would need or how it would be allocated, but let’s just say it was A LOT of pleating, like ALOTTTTTTTTT of pleating. That week I sewed the bodice and skirt and it was a beauty. Stripes just spilling in pleats, lines on the body that would drop off the shoulder and move into an intersecting back detail, it would be a fun piece for sure!
List three words that define your most recent collection. Romantic, Structured, Inclusive. Have any of the current trends influenced your line? If so, which ones? A few years ago I started collaborating with choreographers and dancers. This introduced a new vocabulary to my design aesthetic. I am fascinated by the moving body and the different ways in which it can be pushed to it’s limits (I was definitely amazed when I stumbled upon Wayne McGregor’s “Chroma” which is beyond mesmerizing). So, when designing I’ve found myself incorporating active wear, evening wear, ready to wear, and anything that inspires me in the moment. So there is a play in category and influence which actually has been a trend in itself recently. If you take a look at designers like Gucci, Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs or even Versace you’ll notice there’s an uninhibited playfulness in fashion right now, one that isn’t scared of combining categorizes, using obscure references or being esoteric. There’s a push for the unusual, thoughtful, and quirky which feels less calculated and more genuine. This is what we should do, we should explore, we should experiment. Especially in a time when “norms” are being cut up, turned upside down and put back together, it only seems fitting.
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There was a problem though. I already started working into my color palette, several pieces in bright magenta, rich indigo, fire hydrant yellow, and rugged looks in soft lavender, but the dress was a natural saw grass khaki. The fabric could have easily been used for a stripped summer button up on an aging hippy, and I loved the contradiction. Gislane was another story, she walked into the studio, saw the dress on the mannequin, and said, “Um Elias, it’s pretty - really, but this doesn’t work.” (I mean, I knew it didn’t work but I half hoped she would say otherwise). Our conversation went as follows.
Gislane: You could dye it? Elias: Would khaki dye yellow? Gislane: You could save it for another season. Elias: But I love it! :( Gislane: (eyes dart to the yellow spray paint, and dart back) You could.... Elias: Gislane, no! Gislane: Elias... Elias: Gislane, no! Gislane: Elias, this dress doesn’t work as is, you could save it or... Elias: Gislane! I can’t!
This went on for a bit, let’s just say I didn’t know how much I would love it until the paint hit the fabric. There’s something you quickly learn about Gislane, (that I will never say out loud), but when the girl’s right, she’s right. Transforming it into a jumpsuit was another surprise, but it happened in a fitting, and was a fun experimental accident. Gislane making me paint my “baby” after hours of construction was not (LOL). If your designs could be worn by anyone that embodies the aesthetic of your brand, who would you pick and why? I would love to dress Bjork, she’s so open and vulnerable with her work, and that’s the kind of bravery I’d like to express in my own work. I love the way her brain works and I’m sure any kind of collaboration would be surreal and unexpected. It can be uncomfortable being pushed out of your comfort zone, but there is so much growth to be found in the unfamiliar, and uncomfortable. I won’t always say I’m ready for that, but I’d like to be. What is your next venture and what can we anticipate from you? I recently won a sponsorship with Flying Solo in Soho through a Parson partnership. I would really like to release a men’s capsule while I’m there. A mix of fun basics for the spring. And possibly an editorial capsule for women revisiting themes I explored a few seasons ago for men, surrounding this idea of a beautiful tribe. I think I want it to have a romantic/ futuristic vibe, haha. Stay tuned!
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E U U N I S A
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“This collection is for women who are fearless creators proudly walking in their own light�
R A N I
Unisa Eurani represents the empowering force of the woman who strived and curated the foundation of designer, Anasa Greaves streetwear and classic silhouette brand.
MUSE PRINCESS CHANNER (DIRECTIONS USA)
Greatly inspired by geometric shapes, angles and bold colors, Unisa Eurani utilizes key details such as sharp lines, color blocking and tailored silhouettes in her modern-day creations. Staying in alignment with the confidence and humble authenticity of her brand, Anasa reveals her vision for her novelty collection
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Tell us about your experience within the fashion industry and how you came to be a designer. It’s been an interesting road. After doing the whole professional interning and working in the industry, I got to the point where I was tired of building someone else’s dream and keeping mine on the back burner. I wanted to build my dream. As a child I would watch my aunt sew and I became completely fascinated with the detail, skill, and all the fabric. The amount of fabric she had was insane but even now I remember taking her scraps and pins and making little dresses for my dolls. That’s how designing came about for me. Tell us the story and the significance behind the name of your brand ‘UNISA EURANI’ Unisa Eurani is a combination of my name, aunt’s name and my grandmother’s name. My family is originally from Guyana, my grandmother was a seamstress. She made her living by sewing and she taught my aunt how to sew who later taught me. So Unisa Eurani represents the empowering force of women who came before me and passed their gifts onto me.
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List three words that define your spring collection. Eclectic, bold and timeless. Have any of the current trends influenced your line? If so, which ones? I try my best to stay away from trends. If everyone is wearing black, I want to go towards the neon’s. I think when you start paying attention to trend’s they stifle your creativity. I rather create my own style. Tell us what your personal favorite piece/look is in your new collection and why My personal favorite piece is my oversized menswear inspired vest. It’s oversized, comfy, and androgynous, but still embodies a bit of sexiness. I love that. I love when women don’t have to show it all and can still walk into a room and demand the floor. That’s the Unisa Eurani woman.
If your designs could be worn by anyone that embodies your aesthetic of street-wear fused with timeless silhouettes, who would you pick and why? Oh man! That’s a hard one! I’ll go towards the entertainment industry and with Solange. There’s something about her that’s timeless and radiates confidence. I think she’s comfortable, like truly comfortable with who she is, and it shows. She perfectly embodies the ‘Unisa Eurani Woman’ – one who is empowered, embodies fearlessness and it is clearly evident in her attitude and apparels of choice. What is your next venture and what can we anticipate from you? Unisa Eurani will be doing a series of pop ups, a show collaboration for Spring/Summer, and really working towards building brand exposure. I’m in the direction of taking Unisa Eurani to higher heights. ESTELA | 19
M O N O S U I T
Adapting to the lifestyle of the frequent traveler and our high-speed modern generation, MONOSUIT (mono = ‘one piece’) expands the notion of an easy-to-wear jumpsuit into an ingenious outfit piece. With an optimistic perception of one day travelling to planets as efficiently as travelling to countries, Monosuit’s functionality allows wearers to adjust their versatile suit in accordance to weather conditions through adjustable collars, detachable sleeves and purposeful zippers (functioning upfront, backwards and upside down). While skillfully transitioning functionality into their creations, the revolutionized one piece doesn’t sacrifice the key attributes of avant-garde design, genuine comfort, flattering silhouettes and the flexibility to interchange into five different outfit variations through a single Monosuit. Greatly inspired by her country sending the first man into space in 1961 and being faithful to the conception of ‘multi-planetary travels’ designer Masha Agapkina passionately shares the revelation of her new collection ‘SPACESHEEP’.
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My anthology began with a spelling error, instead of spaceship I typed ‘spacesheep’ into Google. The new collection was inspired by the works of artist Nick Cave, science fiction films about space, Elon Musk’s talks about the multi-planetary future and a recent visit to the spaceport at Cape Canaveral in Florida.”
MUSE skylar deckert (kstarr mgmt)
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Tell us about your experience within the fashion industry and how you came to be a designer. As a child, I often had to re-make old clothes of my relatives to sew something for myself as we didn’t have enough clothes in the shops back there in USSR. After graduation, I decided to attend a financial academy as my parents insisted that I pursue a profession in finances. Although, 12 years later after studying at numerous fashion design and art schools, I produced my first collection, while simultaneously working at my finance job. I decided to finally alter my life and pursue my dream of becoming a fashion designer. Seven years ago, Monosuit was born and now I wholeheartedly reflect on the expansion of my brand from Russia to the US and 12 collections comprised of jumpsuits, dresses, outerwear, shoes and bags. List three words that define your most recent collection. Futuristic. Avant-Garde. Streetwear. Tell us about your personal favorite piece/look in your new collection and why? I specifically love ‘Monosuit Space X’ (named in honor of Elon Musk’s space company haha) It has a cool, contemporary silhouette, 5 looks in 1 transformation options and is extremely comfortable. I believe its an ideal choice for frequent travelers. Nonetheless, I love all Monosuit pieces and wear my brand every day. 22 | ESTELA
If your designs could be worn by anyone that embodies the aesthetic of your brand, who would you pick and why? I would love my designs to be worn by most charismatic and talented people like Beyonce, Maye Musk, Tilda Swindon, Natalie Portman, Julia Roberts, Scarlette Johansson, Madonna. This year Monosuit was spotted on Victoria Secret’s models and celebrated TV hosts and rappers. What is your next venture and what can we anticipate from you? Well, we are firm believers in recycling and minimizing harm to our environment, therefore we use left-overs from our Monosuit productions to make unique knitted pieces and special accessories. On a larger scale, I am further expanding my label, as I am now designing shoes and sneakers. Hopefully we can see them soon at the upcoming New York Fashion Week shows in September 2019.
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L I L I
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Fueled through a keen desire for jewelry that harmonized with her personal style, Stephie started curating handmade pieces, refined with an elegant treat. Through the fascination of jewelry design and recognizing that emotion and self-love were the key incentives for her precious creations, Stephie founded, Lili Claspe (in honor of her late sister, Lisa). Today, she continuously strives to ensure that her jewelry speaks to women – hand-selecting stones that complement the lines and curves of women’s bodies and helps women emphasize their personal style. Prominently influenced through ‘pearl moments’ and orchestrating to promote positivity for women of all shapes and sizes, Stephie shares the significance behind her ‘Body’ collection
“Our primary model for the
Solange because she is ‘plus
campaign, Solange, was my
sized’ – I loved her because she
original muse – I was inspired
was talented, beautiful and
by the confidence she shows in
confident. I wanted to show
her photographs. When I found
with the ‘Body’ collection that
out that she was considered a
whether a size 2 or size 22, a
plus-sized model, I was shocked woman should feel beautiful and to be honest, frustrated. I
and confident in her own skin.”
had no intention of featuring
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Tell us about how your experience within the fashion industry that led you to become a jewelry designer. I was actually working in retail and had no real experience in the fashion industry prior to starting the line. One day, I came across a necklace that I had to have but couldn’t afford to buy it on my retail income so I decided to try to make it myself. One necklace led to another selling each one I made off my body. This was where Lili Claspe started – me in my dining room hand making jewelry and figuring it all out as I went. List three words that define the Body Collection: Sexy, Bold and Confident Tell us about your personal favorite piece/look in your new collection and why? The Brace Harness and Belt Set – it’s our most versatile piece, the perfect 2-for-1 combination.
Considering you have a background in ‘styling’ and have established a phenomenal niche in the jewelry industry, is there a desire to expand the range of your label? Yes! I definitely plan on branching out in jewelry and outside of jewelry. I’d like to start with eyewear and handbags. Apparel intimidates me a bit, but I would never rule anything out! In the jewelry world...Men’s jewelry is something I’ve been thinking about trying as well as designing a bridal collection! If your designs could be worn by anyone that embodies the aesthetic of your brand, who would you pick and why? Lady Gaga – doesn’t let fear, insecurities or her critics affect her from taking risks and being her own artist What is your next venture and what can we anticipate from you? I’ve just wrapped up a month of designing a late Summer Collection called Armadillo. It’s a collection that I am SO proud of and something I look forward to wearing as my new everyday staples.
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A I S H A M C S H A W words farah akbar MUSE CHloe cook (salt model)
Aisha McShaw closed this season of Fashion Week at the Port George Hotel in Manhattan with a very private and star studded show, featuring guests such as the founder of the Diversity Council, former model and fashion activist, Bethann Hardison. The private, low key event was reminiscent of how old fashion houses would put on their shows; it was more personal, which is what McShaw places at the forefront of her design process.
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“I only picked fabrics that I loved,” she recalls about putting her collection together. “This collection is about the empowered woman.” McShaw was inspired by her summer trip to Milan. “I was just fascinated by the boldness of the colors that the women wore there and decided that this collection would be about boldness, colors, and prints.” There is an emphasis on timelessness and elegance with this collection. “We did a striped suit that I adore. If I see a beautiful print, I want to turn it into a suit. Every woman should have a bold as well as a corporate suit.” ESTELA | 29
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By sweet serendipity, McShaw’s career started in Kimora Lee Simmons’ studio, when a pattern lady inspired her. “I was trying on clothes and looked over at the mannequin she was working on, and this thought came to my mind to ask her how she got started.” They happened to be leaving at the same time and McShaw asked the Pattern Lady about how to make her ideas into actual garments. The Pattern Lady, named Julia, gave McShaw a crash course on how to start her fashion line. They spent an entire summer together and she took her all over the garment district and showed her everything that she needed to know. “She worked with a lot of high profile designers, she was amazing. And for her to take that time with me, meant a lot.” After that time, McShaw started sketching her own looks and then wearing them to events. People were so receptive to her designs that she was able to start pitching. When asked about her design process, McShaw simply explained: “I don’t really follow trends, but I know what looks good on a woman’s body. I know what looks good on me and what colors compliment my skin color. To be honest, this line is really about me creating things that I love.”
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M A R C E L O S T E R T A G
A celebration of the most inspirational people in his life, Marcel’s SS19 collection ‘MUSE’ depicts youthful vibes and brings back the chromatic glamour of the 1970s.
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TIDAL
ECHOES
Photographer Reinhardt kenneth
fashion stylist khai st. lawrence
hair & makeup artist eiko watanabe
muse ana cobo
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Full Look DIANA COUTURE
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Top OPENING CEREMONY Shorts DIANA COUTURE
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Dress DIANA COUTURE
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Dress KAREN MILLEN
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HAIL THE GODDESS
Photographer nick ware FASHION STYLIST & MAKEUP ARTIST Blasina Salam hairstylist nina lee muse sonam patel (ei models) 50 | ESTELA
GANGA
Corset RUNA RAY Face CATENA BY WENER & C Choker LILI CLASPE
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Earrings, Choker & Harness LILI CLASPE Hair Clips & Nose Ring Stylist’s Own Bustier RUNA RAY
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Face CATENA BY WENER & C Earrings, Belt & Cuff LILI CLASPE Pearl Bra SPOIL ME IN RHINESTONES Bustier RUNA RAY Hair Clips STYLIST’S OWN
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WHEN WE BECOME
STARDUST
Photographer ashish chawla | Makeup Artist Kajee rai | hairstylist karan rai | models Gianluca Fontana & Tara zoe woltjes fashion by rajdeep ranawat | jewelry by isharya 56 | ESTELA
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CAPTURE
MOI
PHOTOGRAPHY ALEJANDRO RAMIREZ makeup artist SARA JUAN Model KSENIA BELOVA (TREND MODELS)
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Coat MAX MARA Dress AVIESC Headpiece ADRIAN GALVEZ
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NEON
PHOTOGRAPHY florencia valentini | fashion stylist BELEN GANDARA | makeup artist FADUA SULHEIR (KABUKI MAKEUP SCHOOL) Model micaela tosi (look 1 MODELS) | photo assistant marcelo perez lopez 72 | ESTELA
DESGASTADO
Coat MAX?
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B O R 3 D.
PHOTOGRAPHY florencia valentini | fashion stylist BELEN GANDARA | makeup artist FADUA SULHEIR (KABUKI MAKEUP SCHOOL) Model micaela tosi (look 1 MODELS) | photo assistant marcelo perez lopez
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MORE IS MORE Amalgamating their mutual love for extravagant details, unconventional accessories and all things fabulous, fashion brands Agni Style and Namaslay Designs push cultural boundaries and pay their tribute to their favorite fashion motto: “more is more� with these dramatically fierce looks. “More is More is a dedication to continuously drip in finesse and a vow to design pieces that are innovative and true to the fundamental identities of both brands: overly confident, remarkably bold and fearlessly unapologetic.
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