Estela Magazine: UNAPOLOGETIC Issue FW18

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DANIELLE LYN

Unapologetic

FW18 XXX


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www.estelamag.com


MASTHEAD

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF + CREATIVE DIRECTOR SENIOR EDITOR + DESIGNER style director JUNIOR EDITOR SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER JUNIOR PHOTOGRAPHER JUNIOR FEATURES EDITOR EDITOR

BLASINA SALAM NICHOLE JONES byron cordero FAIYAZ KOLIA RAPHAEL BAKER NICHOLAS WARE MOONI S. FARAH AKBAR

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

kamil banaszek shimon karmel nancy schoenmakers maria maksak jd starling

CONTRIBUTING EDITORs

FEATURES EDITORs SONAM NAIDU & ALI ROC style editor sandhya garg

COVER IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY NICK WARE MUse danielle lyn gown elena rudenko

SPECIAL THANKS TO flying solo

ISSN 2573-6272 Estela Magazine 2018

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CON TENTS 08 16 24 32 40 50 58

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fw18 trend report the evolution of theary monet meets dali the archeologist sincerely living her truth cirque de fusion ALTWEIBERSOMMER

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Change is here and our generation is flipping the script. I’m proud and honored to know amazing artists and icons-in-the-making of my time, all who have inspirational stories and works that convey powerful messages. They use their voices and mediums to drive positive change and this magazine is the vessel for those messages. Following this note is a letter from our cover girl and Muse Danielle Lyn, a profound message that I seriously considered using in place of this because it says exactly what needs to be heard. We hope these visual and written stories will inspire you, our dear reader and contributor, to never stop giving and creating. The world needs your art now more than ever.

PEACE +

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RSVP:

YOUR INVITATION TO YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE

We find ourselves at a pivotal and vital time in society. Our hearts beat in an era preceded by the power of self expression, and our responsibility to empower: all humans inherent right to being. Do not take lightly this power we are provisioned to be and embody: speak freely, stand for self, and others. Reciprocity evokes respect. Respect that begins in you, for you, for your story, and for others. Together, we are unapologetically human. We are not defined by our differences. When we share, we grow. We must not limit self by what society deems, for limiting self begins by adhering to others definition of beauty. You are perfectly made. In all shades, all sizes. Stop apologizing. Receive where you find yourself: embrace you, your voice, your story. You are worthy. The time is now, and the time is ours. Unapologetically strong, unapologetically graceful, unapologetically kind, unapologetically woke, unapologetically beautiful, unapologetically loving and unapologetically fearless. Use your voice, take your seat at the table of humanity. Better being, together. xx, Danielle Lyn

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FW18 TREND REPORT

curated by sandhya garg

Classics make a strong comeback this season while fresh elements and styles of layering colors and textures are introduced this season. FOLLOW SANDHYA’S STYLE SENSE ON INSTAGRAM @SANDHYAGARG11 ESTELA | 9


natasha zinko vivi zubedi libertine

PATCH+ PRINT

Being a big print lover, I had to start with this. Like life, prints find their way into this world. Nothing makes a bolder statement than a well designed print. If you’re gutsy like me, go all out with an all over print. Or if you have a great eye for combining different pieces then combine print with some solids and voila, you are on trend. Libertine, and Vivi Zubedi are all channeling the print vibe. DIY tip - combine your two wonderful scarfs and drape them around your waist or neck to copy this trend in your own way.

mother of pearl

KIM Shui 10 | ESTELA


max mara

AREA

adam selman

ANIMAL INSTINCT

I always had serious taste concerns when it came to animal prints but alas, they’ve returned this season with a bang. If you’re a nonbeliever like me, a simple accessory accent might do the trick in the form of a bag or shoe. However, if you’ve got the love to pull these prints off, go all out with a coat and dress mix. After all, many designers have not only embraced the trend but rendered their own interpretations with funky colors.

TOM FORD

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MAKI oh

CUSHNIE et ochs ASHISH

SPARKLE &SHINE

As we circle to “back to the future” love, sparkle and metallic surfaces are back in fashion. There is hardly any designer who doesn’t have a few looks in the shiny arena for this fall. Ladies, it is the time to embrace sequins - mother of pearl, lurex, iridescence and all other shiny, sparkly clothing. Although this trend is not for the faint hearted, everyone can do it in their own unique way from glimmering accessories to full body looks. Well, do it for a night out with similar looks from Cushnie and Sally LaPointe and shine your way through it.

GRETA CONSTANTINE SALLY LAPOINTE

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COLOVOS KIM SHUI

MARCEL OSTERTAG

50 SHADES OFBROWN

True as it sounds all shades of brown are on trend this fall. You can go monochromatic in different shades of brown and look stylish, or just do one shade all over. Altazurra has dedicated an entire season to this lovely color. Brown has never looked so chic before. Pick your favorites in this color and see yourself making an on trend statement this fall.

LEANNE MARSHALL laquan smith ESTELA | 13


GREEDILOUS SIMONE ROCHA HOUSE OF HOLLAND

MADPLAID

Plaid has a sneaky way of making it to the fall trends every so often. If you love prep and classic fashion trends, plaid has got to be a favorite. Like diamonds, one cvcould say the Burberry checks are forever. Similarly, and Romeo Hunte, Simone Rocha, and Each x Other are all embracing plaid with oversized coats in both men’s and women’s range. Plaid in color is what is unique about the trend this time. Bright saturated colors like mustard, purple, red are lending themselves to these beautiful patterns. Plaid lovers, this is your season to bring out your favorites and show off your personal style!

ROMEO HUNTE

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PRISCAVERA JACQUEMUS balenciaga

RAD RUCHING

Interestingly, ruching has been in fashion for sometime now and refuses to go away. The best part about this trend is that everyone can embrace it in one way or the other. You can go big with full body ruching or subtle and strategic. Strategically placed ruching can bring out your curves or even hide the “uncomfortable” areas. I am a firm believer of “why should fashion trends be only for size 00-­0 when there is something in it for everyone?” So bring out your adventurous side, play with ruching and look stunnig.

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THE

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E V OOF L U T I O N T H E A R Y


For most designers, getting where you want to be as a brand and established house is a journey that can take many forms. For the Youtheary Khmer brand, the journey has been different from most.

Words ALI ROC FASHION BY Theary sim / youtheary khmer creative DIRECTOR jen sheikh Photographer JD STERLING makeup artist nesha harris hairstylist alicia page fashion stylist sabrina brown models ravynn freeman, lene pelayo, & stacy summers model coordinator bree cooksy FASHION & GLAM ASSISTANT azaria robinson Photo Assistant kendra mcdonald ESTELA | 17


After a successful plus sized modeling career, the California based designer decided it was time to hang up her pumps to join a select few in the modeling world. Only a handful of designers can claim to have walked the runway before becoming a brand and in the spirit of Kate Moss, Gisele and Iman; Theary (pronounced Terry) Sim started her career as a plus size model, who couldn’t find the cuts and styles she was modeling in the real world. “Everyone can’t afford tailored clothing, or their body is made differently from the way the designer cut the clothes. I want you to feel like you’re wearing a tailor made piece.” She took time to look at was really missing from the industry, while pursuing a fashion degree at Clark Atlanta University and got to work creating unique, well-made clothing that had yet to enter the market. “I wanted people to have color options, styling options and be able to incorporate color into their wardrobe,” says the designer. 18 | ESTELA


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When the most you could hope for was a colored scarf to add into your plus clothing mix, Theary and a handful of other designers began changing the way plus women shopped; even what they went looking for when it came to silhouettes. Then there is also the matter of texture. One look at the beautiful off the shoulder lace trench dress and you’ll get it. With her FW18 collection, she chose “Back To Cool” as her theme. The collection features vivid colors and textures, like sweaters with velvet pleated trim and crimson satin kimonos. “Each collection is tied to a theme of my current state in life, right now I’m learning and growing, so I thought about going back to school,” Theary explains on her concept. Watching a brand grow, thrive, and develop may not always be a joy, but one look at the care and focus placed in the details of Youtheary Khmer and you can feel where the designer has been and where the clothes are going. Keep your eyes peeled for the holiday collection (coming soon) and for the next installment of wonder as Theary looks to serve all sizes and expand her brand to the world stage.

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FOLLOW THEARY’S LABEL ON INSTAGRAM @YOUTHEARYKHMER ESTELA | 23


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MONET

MEETS

DALI

photographer Nancy Schoenmakers fashion STYLIST Donya G. Mirheydari Hair & makeup artist Iraj Raghosing (Colourfool Agency) MODEL Amaka Enem (Max Models) ASSISTANT Veera Koski-Säntti

Jacket YOHJI YAMAMOTO Pants DONYA G. MIRHEYDARI

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Mask & Dress KIM DOMBURG

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Dress WIETSKE VAN BRAAK

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Pants DONYA G. MIRHEYDARI Tights DOLCE & GABBANA

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Leggings IRIS VAN WEES

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C R A to pho

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Blouse VERONICA BEARD Top, Belt & Skirt STYLE MAFIA Shoes SCHUTZ

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Hat ZARA Coat MAJE Top ASTR THE LABEL Pants THEORY Earrings RACHEL COMEY Shoes SCHUTZ

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Jumpsuit STAUD Coat MAJE Top ASTR THE LABEL Pants THEORY Earrings RACHEL COMEY Shoes SCHUTZ

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S I N C E R E L Y L I

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V I N G

H E R T R U T H

interview SONAM NAIDU Photographer NICK WARE FASHION EDITOR BLASINA SALAM muse danielle lyn (Authentic Talent & Literary mgmt & Cunningham escot slevin & doherty) ESTELA | 41


Netflix’s most recent female dominant power production, Nappily Ever After beautifully unravels the significance of true beauty through the contribution of what comes from within. Integrating the stories and insights of colored women from the production, direction and cast crew perception, Nappily Ever After greatly excels in portraying how the norms of present-day society crumbles in the face of our authentic selves. Alongside the leading queen, Violet played by Sanaa Lathan – Danielle Lyn embodies the role of Alicia. She is a power female employed in corporate advertising but notably the secondary woman of color in a real-world ambiance, facing the challenges real women are confronted with on the regular.

Alicia was a role of affirmation for Lyn to confide in her range as an actress of color in Hollywood and a vocal advocate who most definitely isn’t reluctant to preach her views on women and equal rights. An artist of numerous empowering trades as a former competitive figure skater and unconventional model back bone evolved into a La-La-land celebrity, innovative activist and purposeful writer elevates our ‘Unapologetic’ issue with her revolutionary views as a diverse female sincerely living her truth. SN: Tell us about your experience on starring in Nappily Ever After. How did you feel playing such an empowering character and being a part of a Netflix production that surpasses the conventional comprehension of beauty in our day in age? DL: Nappily Ever After has been such a fantastic experience for me as an actor and a human. I grew so much from being on set and surrounded by strong women telling such a beautiful story. It was the second production, following my episodes on Queen Sugar, that I was able to be a part of that is not only directed by women, but starring women of color as the leads, and being produced behind the camera by women. Women telling the stories from all lenses, 42 | ESTELA

you can’t underestimate the power of sharing in that experience. That has a way of representing the world in a unique way when you see the work come full circle. Walking the red carpet and premiering the film was a celebration for sure, I have had such gratitude for how well the film has been received by audiences and fans! The film’s invited the conversations to be had for to embrace own’s natural beauty, and not conform to what society’s standards are, which is so empowering given the climate we as women find ourselves in... It’s so rewarding to be a part of a film that empowers women, and from that we grow into our own and use our voices, which was so beautifully represented in Nappily Ever After. SN: From being a competitive figure skater to a model to an actress and now an activist tell us about your transition through each artistic platform. What inspired you to keep trekking and conquer? DL: This makes me laugh to think of the many days that I have woken up, and decided to pursue the new, and put myself into creating new space for my energy to fuel. By no means does deciding to do something new mean the pursuit has been easy, but making a decision and going with it while not


Trench DSSIMILIS Necklace SIERRA WINTER Boots PAULA TORRES

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allowing one thing, or two, or three, define you has inspired the most growth for me as an artist, and a human. Trusting something new means you have to be vulnerable and strong willed at the same time, and that usually means the obstacles will be great, but I find your greatest obstacle in life is very often yourself, and trusting that you are capable of doing great things. To me, whatever things may be will be worth you keeping on. So yes, I shift my energy, and time into new forms on a daily basis, but the things you say I transitioned from (and I like to think I rather shift between) are still parts of my life; I still give my time for all of the above, along with a myriad of other things, and it may change in their level of priority to me at a given moment, but they are all facets of things I love, grow from, and what has strengthened me along the way. I think the more you do, and do with intention, the more you grow from doing. Some would counter me and say there is no mastery if you do too much (the figure of speech, “jack of all trades, master of none”) but I think that reflects society telling you what you can do or do well, and I don’t believe we should limit ourselves. We give too much of ourselves to society telling you what success and worth is, and what is any of that, if it’s what you love, then do it well and it will reflect you living your story. SN: Being a woman of color is of course challenging in Hollywood, how do you personally propose to alter this trend women of color (WOC) being side lined for roles? How will you inspire others to pursue a creative direction? DL: Creating original content, new work, producing projects, sharing reflects us taking the initiative to tell our stories. To the existing projects and casting of those roles, if they begin to see us per our talent, without regard to color, or race, or gender, and writers who write to represent the world as it is, not as tradition sees it. Living in NYC is that inspiration every day - when I hop on the subway I am surrounded by diversely different and beautiful humans and characters in all shapes, sizes and ages. That is humans being humans and exchanging their stories. And the more we tell stories that truly reflect the lives we live, the more people will find themselves represented on screen.

To inspire others, and to create, really means you use your voice, collaborate with like minded progressive artistic and intentional individuals and you can create the place for yourself. SN: As a WOC activist, where do you see yourself in the next five years? DL: Every day I hope that the work that I am doing today will help others tomorrow, and the day after... I can only hope five years down the road the work I am doing will be representative of the voice I am continuing to use on behalf of others. My personal hope is that I will have been appointed an ambassador and continue on in my advocacy on behalf of women and children’s rights, especially in developing nations, and the importance of education for all on a global front. SN: We hear you’re a writer as well, can you tell us a little bit more about one or some of the books/ projects you are currently working on? DL: Yes, I am a writer. It took years for me to embrace that, and the idea of putting my words and myself out there in that way. I would write letters to my closest friends, and loved ones in prose and poems, time and again I would be encouraged to share it, but I resisted. The time came where I recognized that the experiences I have lived opened a space for my writing and sharing. I have several books in the works, the first are my own stories and poems, I am co-authoring another book for adoptees that is being published in the Philippines in 2019 which will be out soon, and my best friend has authored a fantastic children’s book that I’m throwing all of my support behind; I trust all of these works will fill a purpose and have an impact. SN: What was your most rewarding role to date and why? Are you currently working on any new shows or movies? DL: The most rewarding role has been Nappily Ever After. Seeing its impact with how we each contribute to what beauty is by being ourselves. Playing Alicia has been empowering for me, to represent women, and women of color embracing their natural beauty, and to see the best in self, not societies role for us. To be given a role that required assurance of self so early on in my career, when I had just played a very ESTELA | 45


Gloves ALI HAIDER

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“LIFE IS FAR TOO SHORT AND UNPREDICTABLE FOR ONE TO LIMIT THEMSELVES TO SOCIETIES DEFINITIONS, EXPECTATIONS AND NORMS. BE UNAPOLOGETICALLY YOU, THERE IS NO OTHER LIKE YOU. DON’T COMPARE YOURSELF TO OTHERS, SEEK YOUR OWN REFLECTION, YOU’LL FIND HOW BEAUTIFUL YOU ARE IN WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED AND GROWN FROM” ESTELA | 47


youthful free spirit lover in another film role, really helped me trust my range and self with the world I am able to translate on screen. Nappily has definitely allowed me to embody power on screen, and being a strong women in corporate advertising world alongside Sanaa’s character, Violet, as the only two women of color in a setting is reflective of the real world, and what women are up against. Incredibly impactful for me as an actor, it definitely made me grow in my range. Hopefully it allows others to see me in that role of authority. As for other work, yes, I have just signed on to help produce an LGBTQ series with a dear friend of mine, and am giving space to growing behind the camera as well. SN: As an artist/activist who inspires you? Any key influencers in your life that have shaped you into the person you have become today? DL: I am inspired by strong story tellers who use their voices in front of the camera and behind it. Many that I have already had the privilege of working alongside. My career has really been shaped by women who, after meeting me in the room, have taken a chance on me. There haven’t been many roles where I’ve been the automatic fit, or where the role was written with me in mind, and it has really boiled down to a few people really pushing for me and believing in me to get those breaks. My first film credits came from a woman who has repeatedly inspired me to keep on in the face of the ups and downs of this industry, Tracy Kilpatrick, who I admire so much and has continued to inspire me. My Nappily Ever After producer, Tracey Bing, is also a huge role model to me. She is supportive, immensely talented, and created her own production company, Badabing Productions. Working on an Oprah Winfrey and Ava Duvernay show, Queen Sugar and being directed by fantastically talented female directors, such as Demane Davis, and Kat Candler, has been so empowering to me. It is incredibly inspiring to know women who have created their own path in this industry. And working alongside a range of actors has allowed me to trust in sharing and creating; the lessons we take are what we keep and grow from. That is the key to all of us stepping into our own and telling our stories. 48 | ESTELA

FOLLOW DANIELLE’S JOURNEY ON INSTAGRAM @DANIELLE.LYN


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CIRQUE FUSION

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photographer Shimon Karmel fashion STYLIST Sonam Naidu Hair & makeup artist Aurezo Sanari MODEL Simran Johar Bustier TKC DESIGN INC Pants & Bangles PARVESH JAI Turban & Jewelry NAMASLAY DESIGNS

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Jacket JUHLI VANCOUVER Bustier TKC DESIGN INC Skirt ALEX S YU Jewelry & Socks NAMASLAY DESIGNS Sneakers SIX HUNDRED FOUR

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Blouse TKC DESIGN INC Skirt ALEX S YU Earrings NAMASLAY DESIGNS Dupatta PARVESH JAI

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Hoodie & Dupatta PARVESH JAI Skirt ALEX S YU Jewelry NAMASLAY DESIGNS

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Jacket ZUZANNA CZAJA Top & Skirt ANASTASIA SALEICZUK

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ALTWEIBERSOMMER

photographer Kamil Banaszek | fashion STYLIST Cezary Glusniewski | makeup artist Katarzyna Brzozowska | MODEL Oliwia (Rebel Models) ESTELA | 59


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Jacket OKULT Sweater ANASTASIA SALEICZUK

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Sweater ZUZANNA CZAJA Skirt OKULT

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Sweater ZUZANNA CZAJA Pants OKULT

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Sweater ZUZANNA CZAJA Skirt OKULT

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A B O V E T I M E

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The term “emerging designer” has become the fashion world’s latest buzzword. After many seasons of Project Runway and even America’s Next Top Model, the infamously closed off, exclusive fashion world realizes the talent (and possible money) being left on the table by not welcoming in new faces. WORDS FASHIONINJA

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A. BROOKS DESIGNS

With programs like the CFDA Emerging Talent, the high fashion world is making a deliberate effort to include new talent into the industry. In addition, the internet and social media have served as equalizers for the designers who otherwise would not have had a brand; giving way to a new generation of designers building careers strictly online and through their social media platforms. In 2014, Carey Reddick noticed the surge of emerging designers and wanted to created a company to help them move their brands forward, mirroring the strategies of bigger brands. Reddick and his team would attend NYFW every season and had access to a lot of exclusive events. A lot of people noticed what he was doing and were often asking, how? Then a light bulb went off and Reddick and team opened Above Time Marketing as a one stop shop for emerging designers. “Above Time was created to provide industry newcomers with the tools to set their businesses forward and ultimately lead a well garnished life,” says Reddick. For he and the other founding members of Above Time, the idea of a well garnished life is one that celebrates an individual’s ideal, and a big part of that are the

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HAUTELOVE CLOTHING

tools to move dreams forward, which the company is dedicated to doing. Above Time Marketing provides services to help designers produce their first show, get the appropriate press for their brands and get in front of buyers. Over the past four years Reddick and his team have worked tirelessly to build relationships with designers and editors and other influential people within the fashion industry. For the first time in the company’s history, they were able to produce a full show that was on the official schedule for NYFW. The inaugural Above Time NYFW production featured five brands: HauteLove Clothing, Mine Muse, A. Brook Design & Apparel, Unisa Eurani and Temiti Sportswear. The designers chosen ranged from resort, to evening wear, and couture. Inclusiveness is strong part of the values of Above Time. The company is dedicated to creating a space for designers to make their dreams possible. By recognizing the value and future in the diversity of designer, Above Time is ahead of the curve of what’s easily going to be the next big thing in the high fashion industry.


MINEMUSE

unisa eurani

“I would like to see Above Time become as a major fashion consultancy for all emerging designers and models.�

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FORM & FUNCTION

Exploring the femme form draped in unconventional shapes and texture through the latest works of Avnah Long 70 | ESTELA

photographer NICK WARE fashion EDITOR BLASINA SALAM HAIRSTYLIST KELLI J BEAUTY MUSE MAWA KOMARA (EI MODEL MANAGEMENT)


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next issue:

evel R OPEN OCT 15TH | OUT DECEMBER

Email your fashion and beauty concepts, mood boards, and editorials to: submit@estelamag.com

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