Making Dye from Lichen

THERE ARE A VAST NUMBER OF PLANTS FROM WHICH YOU CAN OBTAIN DYE. I HAVE ALWAYS PRESUMED THAT LICHEN WOULD PRODUCE DECIDEDLY EARTHY COLOURS COMPARED TO THE BRIGHT SYNTHETIC DYES WE TAKE FOR GRANTED IN MODERN LIFE. I COULD NOT HAVE BEEN MORE WRONG!

Evernia Prunastri - commonly known as oakmoss. this widespread lichen is found growing throughout the northern hemisphere. Used extensively in perfume production it can often be found on the ground beneath oak trees making it an easy lichen to gather. Utilising the ammonia method it yields a lilac/purple dye, alternatively, a yellow colour can be prepared by just boiling the Oakmoss in water.

Materials

Lichen, collected responsibly

Large glass jar

Ammonia (household strength, which are around 10-12% ammonia)

Saucepan and strainer

Time! This project will take a few months while the lichen ferments in the jar

Method

1. Half fill a glass jar with the lichen. Add a mixture of one part ammonia to two parts water. Oxygen is required for the chemical reaction to take place, so the advice is to fill the jar threequarters full with the solution and to

Throughout history, people have dyed their textiles using familiar, locally available materials and archaeologists have discovered evidence of textile dyeing dating as far back as the Neolithic period.

Plants, invertebrates and minerals are all sources of natural dyes with remove the lid to replenish the oxygen every so often. Keep the jar in a warm place and shake vigorously each day. The dye should be left to ferment for at least three months to achieve an intense dye colour.

2. Pour half of the lichen dye liquid through a strainer into a saucepan. Return the strained lichens to the jar and top up with a new ammonia/water mix – you should get another couple of batches before you lichen is ‘spent’. You want the household strength ones which are around 10-12% ammonia

3. Add water to your dye pot and submerge the material you are dyeing (having prepared it by soaking in water first). Bring to the boil and simmer gently for about an hour or until you achieve the colour you want. Remove your dyed product and leave to dry. A new wet item can be added the majority derived from plant sources such as roots, berries, bark, leaves, lichen and fungi. Please note that not all lichens produce a dye so please do your research before you forage for them. Many grow exceptionally slowly, so it is essential to gather responsibly to avoid damaging colonies. to the pot once the dye has cooled and the process repeated.

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