AUGUST 16-22 2015
Travel
Hometown glory An excursion to Ganga Choti and Swaik Lake proves that we don’t need to venture too far for a dose of natural beauty
Cover Story
Trial by fire Doctors help burn victims work past physical pain to learn to thrive, not just survive
22 16 Infographic
Lockdown
Stop burglars in their tracks by following simple security measures in your home
Feature
Desert dash
For decades, the people of Thar have relied on the khekhro to journey across the desert
28 30
Feature
A rising tide A day spent watching craftsmen build a boat in Karachi will leave you yearning for the high seas
33
Regulars
6 People & Parties: Out and about with beautiful people 36 Reviews: TV 38 Society: Make sure your startup business avoids these mistakes
Magazine Incharge: Dilaira Dubash. Senior Subeditors: Sanam Maher and Ali Haider Habib. Subeditor: Komal Anwar Creative Team: Jamal Khurshid, Essa Malik, Mohsin Alam, Talha Ahmed Khan, Hira Fareed, Maryam Rashid, Eesha Azam and Sanober Ahmed Publisher: Bilal A Lakhani. Editor: Kamal Siddiqi For feedback and submissions: magazine@tribune.com.pk 4 Twitter: @ETribuneMag & Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ETribuneMag Printed: uniprint@unigraph.com
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Khursheed Hyder
Humaira Anwaar
6 AUGUST 16-22 2015
Dawood Global Foundation launches ‘Ladiesfund Corporate’ at the Swiss Consulate in Karachi
Tara Uzra Dawood, Emil Wyss and Arie Wyss
Laila Jamil
Gill Aitkinson
PHOTO CREDITS FAROOQ USMAN
Naheed Irshadullah and Sadia Khan
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Ekra Fayz
Sarah Khan
8 AUGUST 16-22 2015
Falak Sheikh
Nazo Couture launches at Ocean Mall in Karachi
Nazo
Rakeeba Khan
PHOTOS COURTESY THOR
Seemi Qureshi
Abeer Rizvi
Kiran Butt
Minhal Aly
Humaira Asghar Ali
Dania Sheikh and Sama Shah
Nayab and Anum
Rida launches spa & salon Dior Girl on MM Alam Road in Lahore
Aqsa Ali
Naveeda Ahmed and Rida Ahmed
10 AUGUST 16-22 2015
Qurat ul Ain
Zara, Nayab and Afrah
PHOTOS COURTESY BILAL MUKHTAR EVENTS & PR
PEOPLE & PARTIES
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Mahira
Javeria, Mehar and Zunaira
Hina Malik
Sara
PHOTOS COURTESY BILAL MUKHTAR EVENTS & PR
Sonu, Fiza and Seemal
Maryam
Hamna and Rubina
11 AUGUST 16-22 2015
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Arjumand Rahim
Farhan Saeed and Urwa Hocane
Ayesha Omer
PHOTOS COURTESY WALNUT COMMUNICATIONS
Wrong No. premieres in Karachi and Lahore
Hira Tareen and Ali Safina
Atiqa and Samar
12 AUGUST 16-22 2015
Mehnaz and Moammar Rana
Sarwat Gillani and Fahad Mirza
Neelam and Noman Masood
Tooba Siddiqui with her husband
PEOPLE & PARTIES Yasir Nawaz
PHOTOS COURTESY WALNUT COMMUNICATIONS
Saleem Sheikh and his wife
Janita Asma
Rabia Moghees, Sophie Anjum and Mandana
Ayesha Sana and Sohai
Nida Yasir
Javed Sheikh and Danish Taimoor
13 AUGUST 16-22 2015
PEOPLE & PARTIES Kapray launches its first flagship store at Dolmen Mall in Karachi
PHOTOS COURTESY TAKEII PR
Abbas Jafry
Humaira
Amber Wajid
Saima Asim
14 AUGUST 16-22 2015
Alizeh Khan
Ayesha and Naeem-ul Haq
Hina Latif
PEOPLE & PARTIES Rubab Masood and Nadia Hussain
PHOTOS COURTESY TAKEII PR
Ahsan, Mansha and Ayesha Toor
Misbah Mumtaz
Anum Tanveer
Seemi Pasha and Sarwat Gilani
Mahira Abbasi and Farah Abbasi
Sadia Nawabi
15 AUGUST 16-22 2015
TRAVEL
Hometown glory An excursion to Ganga Choti and Swaik Lake proves we don’t need to venture too far for a dose of natural beauty TEXT AND PHOTOS BY MOEBIN KHURRAM HAFEEZ DESIGN BY SANOBER AHMED
Ganga Choti
A trip to Ganga Choti in February includes a trek through dense snowfall.
16 AUGUST 16-22 2015
Azad Jammu and Kashmir is home to some of the most breathtaking views and landscape in Pakistan. While Neelum Valley may be the more popular destination in the area, other districts have nothing less to offer. Thus, in this pursuit, I ended up in Kashmir’s Bagh district in an attempt to scale the Ganga Choti mountain and explore a hidden gem, located right in the heart of Punjab, Swaik Lake.
Located at a height of 9,989ft (3,044m), Ganga Choti belongs to a group of mountains known as the Pir Panjal Range. According to locals, Ganga got its name from local Hindus residing there at the time before Partition. While the mountain is not accessible by Jeeps and requires a day’s hike to reach, the route is considered to be fairly easy during the summer, and is noted as a go-to destination for amateur backpackers. However, our group decided to travel in February, and was, thus, able to witness the area’s dense snowfall during the hike. Before reaching Ganga Choti, we spent the night at Sudhan Gali, located just four kilometres before the mountain. Situated within Bagh district, the town lies at a height of 7,000ft (2,134m). The name of the settlement originates from a Pashtun tribe, Sadozai, who migrated here during the time of British rule. Upon our arrival, we decided to venture into the town for a meal. We struck up a conversation with the owner of a restaurant, who gave us company throughout our meal. When the time finally came to pay the bill, the owner, demonstrating the hospitality of the locals, insisted that the food was on the house. The next day, we set out on foot for our
destination, and 30 minutes into our journey, we glimpsed traces of snow. The weather was pleasant and the landscape astonishing. We crossed the first hill with ease and were met with a plane extending till another mountain far ahead. However, the snow started to pile up at this point. With each passing step, our feet dug deeper into the snow, and as the snow became denser, it became harder for us to trek. There were moments when one would fall waist-deep underneath the white surface, waiting to be pulled out by another member of the group. Soon, the pathway disappeared and we had to fumble to make our way across, trying to avoid any deep falls. It took us a few attempts to establish a safe path, and once we were able to do so, we gained our pace once again. After four hours of trekking, we finally saw Ganga Choti. Covered in a white blanket, its peak was the highest point of the area. The mountain’s sheer magnificence stopped us in our tracks, as we paused to admire it. By this point, we had run out of drinking water and were salvaging snow as an alternate source. However, I couldn’t wait to get to the destination. We carried on for another two hours until we were left with our last climb. Spurred on by our excitement, we managed to reach the peak within 30 minutes. A breathtaking view of the Himalayan mountains surrounding the valley was laid out before us. Resting my back against a stone, I realised I wouldn’t be more content than I was in that moment.
There were moments when one would fall waist-deep in the snow. Although Sudhan Gali and Ganga Choti attract many backpackers throughout the year, the area has not been developed to handle a large number of tourists. Sudhan Gali has only two guest houses and there is no hospital or high school catering to the locals.
Covered in a white blanket, its peak was the highest point of the area. The mountain’s sheer magnificence stopped us in our tracks, as we paused to admire it The trek to the mountain is challenging after heavy snowfall.
AUGUST 16-22 2015
17
TRAVEL Swaik Lake When we think of natural tourist destinations in Pakistan, it is common to cite locations in the northern areas of the country. However, there are unexplored gems in our own backyard, beautiful destinations just waiting to be discovered in our own provinces. Situated near Kallar Kahar, a subdivision of Chakwal district in Punjab, Swaik Lake can be accessed through the M2 motorway linking Lahore and Islamabad. One can take the Kallar Kahar exit from the motorway and drive till the Khandoyah village via the Choa Saidan Shah Road. From there, a 45-minute hike will lead you to the small but breathtaking lake. When I departed from Lahore for the lake, I did not know what to expect. I did not anticipate the hike, but as most backpackers often do, I found my way to Khandoyah, and ended up in a valley surrounded by hills. The circular ground between the hills is often used as a makeshift cricket field, and you can witness children from the village participating in the game. This is also the starting point of the hike.
18 Starting the hike towards the lake. AUGUST 16-22 2015
Tourists enjoying the placid waters of Swaik Lake.
A trip to Swaik Lake offers a perfect escape from busy city life.
The lush green waters, nestled between steep cliffs covered in a blanket of vegetation, provided a cosy spot for a picnic
One may feel wary of the hike needed to reach the lake. However, instead of the usual uphill trail, the lake is located lower than the starting point, and hence, requires little to no effort to reach the destination. With only a few kilometres to cover, it only takes a quarter of an hour to reach the lake. Hidden behind a scattering of trees, bushes and rocks, Swaik Lake cannot be seen until the last moment. The lush green waters, nestled between steep cliffs covered in a blanket of vegetation, provided a cosy spot for a picnic. The water trickling down the cliffs to the lake creates the illusion of a small waterfall. Further down, a stream gushed away from the lake, allowing the water from the lake to spill into it. Upon closer inspection, I spotted hundreds of tiny fish scurrying in the green water. The lake is an ideal place for anyone wishing to dip their feet in the water, or go for a swim. Since there are no shops or commercial activity after Kallar Kahar, one would need to
carry their own supplies. This would pertain to any form of food, medical supplies or most importantly, drinking water. However, be sure to keep your load as light as possible, or else the hike will become harder. Another factor to keep in mind is waste disposal. I found wrappers and old water bottles on the lake, and it was disappointing to see how such a simple act of thoughtlessness could ruin anyone’s experience. Be sure to carry waste bags with you to dispose of trash. Swaik Lake is just one example of the tourist destinations in Punjab. However, Sindh and Balochistan have their own naturally beautiful spots to boast of, with the Hingol National Park in Balochistan, and Gorakh Hills in Sindh. A day trip to a beautiful location is entirely possible if one cannot travel all the way to the northern areas. Moebin Khurram Hafeez is a law student at the Lahore University of Management Sciences. He blogs about his expeditions on the Facebook page Travel Diaries. AUGUST 16-22 2015
19
A child rests in his hospital bed as his burnt skin recuperates beneath the bandages.
COVER STORY
Trial FIRE BY
Doctors help burn victims work past physical pain to learn to thrive — not just survive
BY FERYA ILYAS | PHOTOS BY ARIF SOOMRO | DESIGN BY MARYAM RASHID
A
scream from one of the wards breaks the peaceful quiet of the Burns Center at Civil Hospital, Karachi. The cry echoes in the sunlit corridors of the Victorian building and then dies down as nurses pacify the patient, tending to wounds and changing dressings. A doctor moves between the wards, complaining about a new patient with gangrene on his wounds, emitting a sickening smell, as he reads the medical reports of another. The doctor tells an attendant that his mother’s hand is so severely burnt, it has to be amputated and she says this with a calm which only comes after years of working at a burns unit. The attendant — a man from rural Sindh — calls her ‘doctor rani’ and communicates in his broken Sindhi-Urdu, trying to somehow save his mother’s hand which was burnt when she picked up a fallen
Dr Farhan Qureshi, psychiatrist
high-tension electricity wire in her village. The doctor assures him that amputation will be the last resort. The hospital is well maintained for a facility providing treatment free of charge. The 66-bed Burns Centre treats patients from all over Sindh and Balochistan and Ayesha Ali is one of them. As she shifts her bulky, bandaged body in a plastic chair, she stretches out her arm to show tiny purple blisters — one for every grain of daal that her pressure cooker sprayed over her body. Her left leg and abdomen are in worse condition and she says the pain is the same as it was nine days ago: unbearable. She is advised to walk as much as possible to avoid shrinking of her skin but she finds herself unable to because of the excruciating pain. Ali weeps as she recalls her ordeals at night and when using the restroom. She says she begs her doctors for painkillers but the request is dismissed on grounds of addiction. “Khuda kabhi kisi ghareeb ko beemar na karay (may God save poor people from illness),” she moans.
How to save a life: treating mental and physical wounds
The troubles that come with burn injuries often affect one’s judgment and ability to think objectively. While people fixate on physical wounds, the scars etched on the mind and soul are overlooked even though their healing is as crucial as the recovery of physical injuries. In a world where the survival rate of burn victims has remarkably improved in recent decades, one challenge remains — how to ensure 24 the quality of the life that has been saved. AUGUST 16-22 2015
First degree burns hurt the most but can be treated with simple first aid steps.
Medication must be incorporated in the treatment process along with psychotherapy, positive motivation and character reinforcement therapies
Maimed and marred for everyone to see, burn survivors are exposed to the world; their scarred bodies tell their tale without any prompting. The survivor’s privacy is breached as he or she loses the right to remain anonymous in a crowd and exposure brings with it cruel reactions from naïve observers. “Burn survivors are social outcasts with low self-esteem; they are quiet and shy,” explains Dr Mohammad Fazlur Rahman, a plastic surgeon working with burns patients at Aga Khan University Hospital (AKUH). He adds that the dehumanising behaviour meted out to them leads to isolation, social withdrawal and feelings of stigmatisation. Dr Ehmer al Ibran, the Burns Centre in-charge at Civil Hospital Karachi, says women and children suffering from burn injuries tend to have the most traumatic experiences. “People, in their naivety, begin to dislike those who look different from everyone else,” he explains, sharing the story of an acid attack survivor whose own son refused to recognise her after the life-altering assault. “Try to imagine her trauma,” he adds. The emotional toll that an altered body image has can be so intense that many survivors experience depression, anxiety and post traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) in some form or another. Dr Mansoor Khan, a medical officer at
Patients blame changes in their bodies on the medicines they are taking and stop without their doctor’s approval Dr Imran Khan, psychiatrist
Psychiatric treatment is as important as the healing of physical wounds.
the burns ward at Khyber Teaching Hospital (KTH) Peshawar, says that a majority of survivors suffer from psychological problems. “The patients fall into depression within a week of the injury and are put on anti-depressants,” he says, adding that the burns victims stop eating and communicating with others and sleep less, overcome by their sadness. “A female patient in our ward starts crying hysterically as soon as she sees a doctor,” he says, describing some of the effects of long-term hospitalisation required by burns cases. “She is a mother and yearns for her children who live in her village.” Dr Mansoor’s colleague Dr Imran Khan, a psychiatrist, adds that many burns patients develop a phobia of whatever caused the injury, such as gas cylinders in the case of kitchen explosions. “The survivors fear being around what led to their injury,” he says, adding that many suffer from panic and anxiety attacks as a result. “The patients experience flashbacks of the event and develop a constant fear that the tragedy might occur again,” he explains. “They have the same dream over and over again and experience feelings similar to what they had experienced at the time of the incident.” Many burn injury survivors, he says, relive the trauma of the accident on a daily basis. For many survivors, the pain is exacerbated by injuries that leave them physically unrecognisable. “If there is an aesthetic impairment, the normal functioning of a patient will be compromised as looks enhance or degrade human ego and a person’s self-esteem,” explains Dr Farhan Qureshi, a psychiatrist at Healthline, a Karachi-based private clinic. Qureshi says that such an altered self-image causes depression, which in turn leads to social phobias. Dr Moazzam Nazeer Tarar, a plastic surgeon at the burns unit at Lahore’s Jinnah Hospital, says that many patients do not want to see their own faces after the accident. Tarar says the immediate reaction to a fire injury is the fear of death, which later turns into the fear of deformity. He stresses the significance of psychological counseling right from the beginning.
New body image, new identity
26
Dr al Ibran emphasises the importance of physiotherapy in the process of rehabilitation as psychological challenges emanate from a lack of physical wellbeing. As the body’s muscles begin to contract and shrink due to the injury, the patient is at risk of developing contractures — shortening and hardening of the muscles, tendons, or other tissue, that often leads to deformity and rigidity of joints — that can limit routine body functions “Deformity disables the patient, leaving him or her unable to perform physical tasks and giving them an appearance which can result in psychological problems,” he says, adding that patients often become a burden on their families as they may be unable to return to work. Dr al Ibran places the blame for any deformity caused by lack of physiotherapy squarely on the patient. “No pain, no gain,” he says firmly. “You have to go through the excruciating pain that comes with physiotherapy in order to make sure bodily functions are not lost and you are not rendered useless,” he says with brutal honesty. “The patient will have to make that sacrifice as no one else will do it for them.” Approaching doctors late after the injury is sustained means that some damage has already been done, and may be difficult to undo. While contractures are treated with grafting or rotation flap (wherein healthy skin is used to cover the injured skin), the process is very time consuming and expensive. Dr Imran of KTH says survivors with deformities have serious concerns about returning to a normal routine. Additionally, AKUH’s Dr Rahman says patients should be told right off the bat that they may never return to looking the way they were used to. “To expect to be the same is unrealistic and patients must know that,” Dr Rahman says, urging honest doctor-patient discussions. “Pre-operation counseling is very necessary for this purpose.” However, such discussions are tricky, he admits, as patients are understandably very sensitive. Dr Qureshi of Healthline says his primary focus in a burn injury case is to relieve stress and make the patient feel that he or she has a ‘safe space’ in which they can come to terms with their situation. “Medication must be incorporated in the treatment process along with psychotherapy, positive motivation and character reinforcement therapies,” he says. “This can take a few months, a year or even years depending on the severity of the condition.” The rehabilitation of burn survivors goes beyond several months of hospitalisation and requires physicians, AUGUST 16-22 2015
First aid guide In case of severe burns: 1. Immediately run cold water over the burnt area for 15 to 20 minutes. Do this for all burns except chemical ones as these may be made worse if flushed with water. 2. Remove jewelry before the area begins to swell. 3. Apply Xylocaine ointment to relieve pain. 4. Seek professional help immediately. The more time you waste, the worse the burn gets.
Support system Family and friends should: 1. Encourage and support the injured one. 2. Ensure early mobilisation to avoid contractures. 3. Try not to discuss the injury in front of the patient as it reminds them of the pain. 4. Ensure good diet to speed recovery.
psychiatrists and plastic surgeons working with the family to help with the arduous process of creating a new self. “Burn patients may lack willpower and their integration back into society is not always easy,” cautions Dr Mansoor. “Many patients may have sustained their burns from a suicide attempt and talking to them is more difficult than counseling those burnt in an accident.” Dr Imran adds that those attempting suicide must also live with the guilt of causing trouble to their loved ones. “They live with remorse every day for what they put their families through, making them suffer emotionally and financially,” Dr Imran says, explaining that as medical assistance is expensive for many, some sell their valuables for the recovery process, while others travel from remote areas to reach a doctor.
Rehabilitation of burns survivors is a joint effort by doctors and family members.
The cost of recovery While many government institutions provide physical and emotional assistance to burns patients free of charge or at affordable prices, private clinics in Karachi, Lahore and Islamabad charge between Rs1,000 and Rs5,000 for consultancy and between Rs1,500 and Rs10,000 per session, which lasts for 30 to 45 minutes. Discounts are offered on a case-by-case basis and prices vary depending on the number of sessions recommended to a patient. Healthline’s Dr Qureshi says psychiatric therapy would be relatively less expensive compared to the formidable amount needed for cosmetic and aesthetic rehab as doctors consider price cuts on humanitarian grounds. He adds that the quality of assistance provided by private or government clinics and hospitals would be more or less the same. Discussing stress and depression, Dr Qureshi is of the opinion that psychological problems are not intrinsic but circumstantial which makes rehabilitation a little more complicated. Slipping into depression greatly affects a person’s ability to move and eat, KTH’s Dr Mansoor says, adding that diet and mobility are two vital factors for recovery. While counseling for good diet and mobilisation is important, Dr Imran says patients also need to understand the importance of medicines as many choose to quit taking medication. “Patients blame changes in their bodies on the medicines they are taking and stop without their doctor’s approval,” he says. The psychosocial care of burn patients needs to be a fundamental element of the overall recovery plan from day one. However, there appears to be a gap in the provision of this service in many burns units in Pakistan as only a few provide regular psychiatric help to patients along with care for physical wounds. The process of recreating oneself can be exhausting but with long-term support from doctors and family, burn survivors can bring some form of normalcy back into their lives. T Ferya Ilyas is a senior subeditor at The Express Tribune. She tweets @ferya_ilyas AUGUST 16-22 2015
27
INFOGRAPHIC
LOCKS • The bolt of the lock should be at least one inch long. • Use two locks spaced wide apart on the outer doors. • The connecting screws that hold the lock together must be on the inside of the home and made of hardened steel. Screwheads should not be visible on the outside. • Door locks should be checked at night. It is common practice for criminals to first check for open doors or windows before breaking in. • Keys of exterior doors should never be given to domestic help. • Change the locks of outer doors: o If the key has been compromised. o If the key is misplaced (change the lock even if you find it). o If you have new household staff. o When moving into a new house with pre-installed locks. • At night, leave the keys half turned inside the locks. This will pre-empt someone from opening the door using a duplicate key. SURROUNDINGS • Consider keeping dogs as a deterrent to thieves. • Trim trees and shrubs so that they cannot be used as hiding places for intruders.
Lockdown STOP BURGLARS IN THEIR TRACKS BY FOLLOWING SIMPLE SECURITY MEASURES IN YOUR HOME BY OMAR SAFDAR DESIGN BY ESSA MALIK
Home security is a serious matter, requiring careful analysis. Criminals look for targets that are lucrative and vulnerable and then attack the most unguarded ones. As per the crime triangle theory, three essential elements for a theft are desire, ability and opportunity. While you can’t do much about the first two elements, you can certainly reduce any kind of opportunities available to burglars. Your defence strategy should be based on a crime prevention technique that requires managing, designing and manipulating the environment in a manner that increases the risk to the offender, while reducing the offender’s potential reward for committing the crime. The whole idea is to delay the offender to such an extent that he decides to give up.
2 AUGUST 16-22 2015
BREAKING INTO A BUILDING: COMMON TECHNIQUES 1. Forced entry: Tools are used to unlawfully enter a building for the purpose of committing a theft or felony. The thief creates an opening in the wall or the roof and breaks doors and windows. 2. Fake credentials: An attempt is made to enter the house by using the credentials of a repairman. 3. Compromised insider: With the aid of domestic staff, the thief makes an entry into the house.
WINDOWS
LIGHTS • Use security lighting to deter potential criminals. • Connect external lights to a UPS to have continuous availability of light. • Have adequate exterior lighting to illuminate the house from outside.
• Consider securing your windows with materials like tempered glass, which is much more durable and less expensive than traditional glass since it is more difficult to break it. • Laminated glass, also known as safety glass, is another option for windows. To break through safety glass, a burglar would have to constantly strike the same spot thereby creating a lot of noise and risk alerting people around. • A Charley bar is a device that mounts to the frame opposite the sliding windows and swings down behind the window to stop it from sliding. A stick inserted into the bottom track can be used in the same way. This is useful for sliding windows. • Install metal grills with small spaces in their patterns. • Avoid planting trees close to your windows, as these may help burglars climb up to more accessible windows. • Keep one window in every bedroom available as a fire exit by having sliding grills with locks.
PROTECTIVE MEASURES
DOORS • The exterior doors are the first barriers meant to offer maximum delay to burglars. They should either have a solid wood or metal core. • The front door should open outwards so it cannot be pushed open. • The switchboard of all lights should be placed inside the house. • Use door chains and door viewers that provide a 180-degree view. • Glass should not be used in an exterior door and there should not be any window within 40 inches of it.
• Determine the level of security required for your house and whether or not you need to hire the services of a professional security company. Too many unnecessary protective measures can invite the undue attention of burglars. • Find out about previous incidents of theft, robbery or burglary in the vicinity. • Do not have dark corners in or around your house. Look for wild growth, deserted or dimly lit areas. These could serve as hiding places for criminals. • Find out where the nearest police station is located and get its phone number. • Do not display your name outside the house. Just mention the address. • Beware of people ringing your door bell asking for an address or carrying out a survey. They could actually be probing your response and ascertaining the number of people in your house. Place an intercom at the entrance with a camera. • Always keep copies of CNICs and recent photographs of your domestic help.
USE OF WEAPONS If you want to use a weapon, the following things should be kept in mind: • You must have a license. • Be aware of the consequences of shooting a thief. • The decision to use weapons should be made very carefully. • Handle the weapon correctly as you may not get a second chance. • Hide weapons from household staff and children. Omar Safdar has served in the Pakistan Army for over 20 years and is a certified protection professional (CPP). He specialises in the fields of loss prevention and corporate security. He tweets @omarsafdar_CPP AUGUST 16-22 2015
329
FEATURE
Desert dash
For decades, the people of Thar have been clambering aboard the khekhro for their journeys across the desert TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ABDUL HALEEM SOOMRO DESIGN BY SANOBER AHMED
For the people of Tharparkar in Sindh, the ‘crab’ — locally known as khekhro — is a symbol of hope. They keep an ear out for signs of its arrival: a honk, the sound of the engine and the lilt of Thari folk songs playing on a tape recorder. This khekhro is not the scuttling crab you might have imagined, but instead, a truck. Named for its crab-like structure, the vehicle is the main transport link for people, livestock and goods across the desert expanse of Tharparkar. The arid Tharparkar region, spread over roughly 20,000 sq km, is dotted with sand dunes. During the tenure of former chief minister Arbab Ghulam Rahim, approximately 4,000 km of roads were developed here and now some buses and Jeeps have replaced the khekhro. According to Washoo Mal, who constructs the bodies of these trucks, the khekhro has the capacity to easily mount the sand dunes, and thus, is known as the ‘king of the desert’. There are two types of trucks. The lodheng has one big seat at the front that can accommodate two to three people other than the driver, while other passengers remain standing. The lodheng is primarily used to transport heavy goods and can carry up to 16 tonnes 30 of weight, including livestock. Meanwhile, the ‘passenger khekhro’ has three seats, each AUGUST 16-22 2015
with a capacity of up to five passengers. Two seats are reserved for women and the vehicle can carry up to 14 tonnes of weight. “The idea for this crab-like vehicle came about via America, as some transport trucks there had the capacity to carry 2.48 tonnes of weight,” explains Haji Allah Jurio Nohri, a local transporter. He says these American vehicles were imported to Pakistan, to be used especially in this desert region, bordering India. Between 1965 and 1971, Pakistani border forces auctioned off these American vehicles to people of Tharparkar and particularly Mirpurkhas district. Prior to this, the only mode of transport in the region were camels, horses and donkeys. Over the passage of time, local mechanics altered the American vehicles to enhance its load capacity, building onto the body, engine, tires and mechanical parts. Ultimately, the khekhro was born, morphing into a cargo-and-passenger vehicle. Social activist Abdullah Khoso explains that the passenger khekhro has a small space on the left side of the driver’s seat, known as the ‘wrong side’. The only way to occupy this space is to sit with one leg
Between 1965 and 1971, Pakistani border forces auctioned off these American vehicles to people of Tharparkar and particularly Mirpurkhas district. Prior to this, the only mode of transport in the region were camels, horses and donkeys swung out of the truck’s cabin. Often, this space is reserved for the driver’s crew or ‘special passengers’ such as the truck’s owner or relative or elders of the village. The holder of this seat is also offered tea and lunch by the driver. The khekhro has two gear levers, one to speed up the vehicle and the other to curb speed, specifically when climbing sand dunes. Both kinds of khekhro can carry up to 150 passengers, with some hanging on to the body of the vehicle, while others sit on any available spot, including the roof. “The khekhro was brought to this area in the 1970s by Photo Jogee who belongs to nomad tribe,” claims local journalist Ilyas Thari. He says the vehicle was first introduced in the Umerkot area, and a mechanic Rano Registani, from Naokot, suggested that the truck be used to ferry passengers. Thari also notes that some transporters offered the khekhro free of cost to families for the purposes of funerals. Transporter Khalid Siraj says the khekhro runs along pre-defined routes in Thar and popular stations or stops include Chachro, Umerkot, Islamkot, Mithi and Naokot.
31
Abdul Haleem Soomro is a social activist and freelance journalist. AUGUST 16-22 2015
FEATURE
A rising tide A day spent watching craftsmen build a boat in Karachi will leave you yearning for the high seas TEXT AND PHOTOS BY MEHAR-UN-NISA DESIGN BY SANOBER AHMED
Most of us remember sitting at the edge of our seats in 1997, staring spellbound as Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Winslet fell in love on board the Titanic. Except, I wasn’t just watching the two star-crossed lovers — I fell in love with the ship, too. The sound of footfall on the wooden decks of ships and boats is music to my ears, the roar of the sea only adding to this rhythm.
One bright Sunday morning, I was lucky enough to watch these magnificent contraptions come together, as I watched a boat being built at the Karachi Fish Harbour. In Karachi, boat-building yards are located primarily at Ibrahim Hyderi, Sandspit, Hawksbay, and Baba and Bhit islands The thrill of watching the boat come together was more than enough
33 AUGUST 16-22 2015
FEATURE
Workers expressed fears that if deforestation in Pakistan continues at the same rate, the availability of wood for boats will become scarce and more expensive to mask the strong fishy smell at the boat-building yard. Sturdy planks of wood were scattered across the yard and the skeletons of the boats awaited completion. For the photographers in my group, the interlocking frames of the wooden parts offered a fresh perspective at each angle. The boats instilled a sense of wonder over the power of nature. How small are we, and yet we consider ourselves a supreme creation of the world, I mused. Some of us, however, were not as transported by the hulking structures of the boats — one of my friends clambered aboard a boat that was under construction and headed straight for the upper deck, throwing his arms out in an imitation of Jack Dawson’s famous ‘I’m the king of the world’ scene in Titanic. Boat-building is an age-old art that dates back to the time of Hazrat Nooh (Noah) (A.S); over time, technique and tools have evolved, of course, but the process remains no less captivating. Near the skeletons of the boats, three men, Haji Kareem Ilahi, Fareedul Haq and Abdul Shakir, sat in the shadow of one of their constructions. I was amazed to learn that these men did not follow any blueprint or drawing while constructing the boats. They have memorised their methods and do not need any graphs, pictures or drawings to guide 34 their hand. It is astonishing to consider AUGUST 16-22 2015
In Karachi, boat-building yards are located primarily at Ibrahim Hyderi, Sandspit, Hawksbay, and Baba and Bhit islands.
Workers have memorised their methods and do not need any graphs, pictures or drawings to guide their hand.
Pakistan exports boats to Dubai, Saudi Arabia and Iran.
the skill of workers like Ilahi, Haq and Shakir when you learn about European cutting edge techniques in boat-building. Abdul Shakir, the youngest of this group, told me that the boats are designed to meet international standards and boats built in Pakistan can rival any others on the market. While many boats here cater to local demands, Shakir said that Pakistan exports boats to Dubai, Saudi Arabia and Iran. According to Shakir, even members of royal families of Saudi Arabia order boats from the Karachi Fisheries Harbour as the quality is excellent. Boat-building is a game of money. The more money someone is willing to
invest in the boat, the better the quality of wood used. A single boat can take a minimum of two years to complete and prices start at Rs5o million. The cost is determined by many factors, including the size of type of the ships or boats, and the kind of wood used — Burma teak wood (sagwaan), for instance, is the most expensive, at a cost of Rs12,500 per cubic feet). Many workers at the Fisheries Harbour agreed that Burma teak or teak from Indonesia is the ideal wood to use due to it’s longevity and sturdiness. Additionally, local wood types such as Keekar, Laachi and Saras are also used in the construction process. However, many of the workers in the yard expressed fears that if deforestation in
Pakistan continues at the same rate, the availability of wood for boats will become scarce and more expensive. The engines used in the boats are imported from Singapore, China and some are smuggled from Afghanistan, the workers said. The men at the Fisheries Harbour make all kinds of vessels, including cargo ships and ferries. It is a testament to their expertise that they have such a vast range of experience. By the end of my visit to the Fisheries Harbour, I was convinced — I wanted to see the world from a boat now. Mehar-un-nisa is a Research Associate at the National Centre for Maritime Policy Research and tweets @mehar_un_nisa
35
A single boat can take a minimum of two years to complete and prices start at Rs5o million. AUGUST 16-22 2015
Pecs appeal
BBC revives the 1970s drama Poldark with one very important addition: a male lead that has viewers swooning BY NUDRAT KAMAL
The BBC, undoubtedly, has the market cornered when it comes to lush, sweeping historical dramas. From its adaptations of the works of Jane Austen and Charles Dickens, to the hit period drama Daniel Deronda, the network excels at an apparently winning combination: shows with ballroom dancing, drawing room shenanigans and biting social critique. The latest addition to the BBC’s oeuvre is Poldark, based on a series of historical novels of the same name written by Winston Graham. The novels were previously adapted by the network for a popular miniseries in the ‘70s, but the new version gets an update to suit a contemporary palate, complete with a brooding hero upon whom the whole show hinges. It’s the tail-end of the 18th Century and Ross Poldark (Aidan Turner) has just returned to his English hometown of Cornwall after fighting for the wrong side in the American Revolutionary War. The war has made him decidedly anti-establishment and he comes home brimming with questions about the status quo in an already changing England, with the aristocracy being threatened by the rising middle class and the poor working class feeling increasingly restless about their oppression. Politics aside, Poldark has more immediate 36 problems — he is part of the landed AUGUST 16-22 2015
aristocracy, but in his absence, his father has died and left him with a failing estate and copper mine. Thinking him dead, Poldark’s sweetheart is now betrothed to his cousin. The show’s first season, which covers events of two of Graham’s 12 novels, details Poldark’s quest to adapt to these changes and make a new life for himself. This includes reopening the mine and saving the downtrodden lower class maiden Demelza (Eleanor Tomlinson) by hiring her to work on his estate, and then promptly falling in love with her. Poldark has the makings of an entertaining period drama; the lush cinematography includes picturesque shots of cliffs against the shore and sweeping moors, and the show establishes the historical period fully with its elaborate costumes and sets. The class tensions and politics of the era are convincingly portrayed as well. Unlike many other historical dramas, however, the show gallops forward to cover significant plot details in the eight episodes (a second season has been commissioned). There is courtship, marriage, death and scandal. There are slimy bankers, a prison break and a duel. But the show’s more soapy tendencies are balanced by the fascinating insight into a society on the brink of change — while the social commentary is, of course, not as nuanced as Dickens or Austen, it is still fairly illuminating.
It also helps that the casting for the show is excellent. Turner is especially good at playing a virtuous-to-a-fault underdog, who is kind to his tenants, stands up to the morally reprehensible and looks after his people with intense loyalty. In the hands of another actor, Poldark’s character could very well have been grating, with his self-righteousness and stubborn streak, but Turner gives the character a charming gravitas. It also helps that he is extraordinarily good looking and well-built — which the show takes full advantage of. There’s an abundance of scenes featuring Poldark scything in the fields (shirtless, of course) or riding gallantly across the moors. Turner’s brooding intensity is excellently contrasted with Tomlinson’s sunny and effusive Demelza, and their developing relationship soon becomes the bedrock of the show. The other supporting players, including Poldark’s cousin, his former love and a villain in the form of the power-hungry and conniving banker George Warlaggen (Jack Farthing), are all uniformly effective in their roles. For fans of period dramas, family sagas and swoonworthy heroes, Poldark is a must-watch. Rating: Nudrat Kamal is a freelance writer. She tweets @Nudratkamal
Pains
Growing Make sure your start-up business avoids these common mistakes
BY AHMAD RAZA DESIGN BY TALHA KHAN Welcome to the world of run-your-own business. Exciting isn’t it? But before you get too caught up in dreams of dominating an industry, it’s worth looking at the common issues that will make or break a start-up business. For instance, did you know that according to research 56% of people say they won’t use a company again if they experience bad service? According to the Department of Labour’s Small Business Association in the US, more than half a billion new businesses are set up every year. And an almost equal amount of them are shut down. I have found that the situation is not much better in Pakistan and the potential for failure of your start-up is all too likely.
1. Have a solid business plan “Those who don’t plan, they plan to fail”. Make this your mantra. A stellar business plan can provide a road map for your start-up business and encourage investors to commit to your project. This plan also helps one to communicate with potential partners, vendors, employees and customers. Make sure to include the following: • Mission Statement • Summary • Information on the product or service you’re offering • Target audience • Marketing strategies • Competitor and market analysis • Financials (funding available and funding required)
2. Testing. Testing. Testing
You may think your product is brilliant, but test out your product or service with real customers, and make changes if necessary. Then, test it again.
3. Identify your customer Everyone’s a potential customer, right? But if your product or service is for a particular group (such as anti-aging skincare for elderly women), you need to make sure your branding, marketing messages, campaigns and website content cater to that niche.
4. Be realistic about funding A solid business plan will help you estimate how much cash you will need to get the business going (and be sure to include contingency plans for surprises and set-backs). Explore different sources of business finance, from bank loans to government-backed schemes.
5. Work out which legal structure is right Sole proprietor, partnership, limited liability company, or limited liability partnership? Different structures have different tax consequences. You could be missing out on tax breaks if you don’t have the right structure.
6. Team Building
Hunt for the best talent. Hire smart, passionate and intelligent people who share the same vision and then get out of their way.
So, what could break your business? 1. Bad service
According to one report by Walker Information, by 2020, customer experience will overtake price and product as the key brand differentiator. • Remember — every time you carry out a service or sell something, you are marketing yourself and your business; so, the best marketing tool is excellent service.
2. Underestimating the need for marketing
No matter how fantastic your service or life-changing your product, if people don’t know about it, it won’t sell. • Did you know that according to consumer research, people are targeted with some 5,000 marketing messages on a daily basis? How do you stand out? Think about your product and your target audience and offer them something that shouts, “I’m the solution to your issues.” • Even if you get most customers through word-of-mouth, the people who hear about you will look you up online. They’ll look at your website, and they’ll search on social media pages. You need to be found in multiple places
3. Not having the right insurance in place
A corporate or an LLC offers you protection against being held personally liable for actions by your employees or others. Insurance is available for many risks — the risk that your market won’t materialise, your customer base isn’t looking for the products you sell and so on. Ensure that you are covered.
4. Missing your story
What lead to the creation of your product? People like personal stories. Make sure to share yours. Ahmad heads up Pakistani.pk a local startup project. He tweets @ThisIzSparta