JUNE 14-20 2015
Cover Story Travel Tales
Four inspiring travel destinations to guide your next adventure
Feature
Into the wild How to prepare for a backpacking trip
18 Society
Nature’s call Tips to have an incredible outdoor camping experience
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4
50 Regulars
6 People & Parties: Out and about with beautiful people Movies
46 Reviews: Books and
Magazine Incharge: Dilaira Dubash. Senior Subeditors: Sanam Maher and Ali Haider Habib. Subeditor: Komal Anwar Creative Team: Jamal Khurshid, Essa Malik, Mohsin Alam, Talha Ahmed Khan, Hira Fareed, Maryam Rashid, Eesha Azam & Sanober Ahmed Publisher: Bilal A Lakhani. Editor: Kamal Siddiqi For feedback and submissions: magazine@tribune.com.pk Twitter: @ETribuneMag & Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ETribuneMag Printed: uniprint@unigraph.com
PEOPLE & PARTIES Farah and Hifsa
Sarah and Saad
Fashion Designers Association of Pakistan showcases members’ couture collections in Lahore Nosheen Khalid
Amal with a friend
Natasha Hussain
6 JUNE 14-20 2015
Sameera, Sabeeka and Sundus
Simki Nomaen
PHOTOS COURTESY AHMED SHIRAZ
Farah
Angeline Malick
Muzznah Ibrahim
Moinuddin Haider and Asma
Nausheen Shah
Pranzo restaurant opens up in Clifton in Karachi
Aamir Mansoob with his sister
Noor Hassan and Sanam Agha
Kiran Khan and Nazia Malick
8 JUNE 14-20 2015
Ayesha Toor, Amir Anees and Zhalay Sarhadi
PHOTOS COURTESY PHEGENCY PR AND EVENTS
PEOPLE & PARTIES
PEOPLE & PARTIES Ali, Mr and Mrs Sentosa, Saleha and Yasmeen Hyder
Amina Sultan
PHOTOS COURTESY WALNUT PR
Saleha Qureshi opens up her flagship boutique at Zamzama Mall in Karachi
Nadia Merchant
Rabia Aziz
Kinza, Barirah and Nadia
10 JUNE 14-20 2015
Zainab Butt
Sharmeen and Maheen Karim
Alvina and Nauman
Muneeba Yasin
Waadi Animations hosts a premiere of 3 Bahadur in Karachi and Lahore
Sania Maskatiya and Umair Tabani
Fouzia Aman with her family
12 JUNE 14-20 2015
Sikander Rizvi and Ayesha Omar
Hamayun Saeed, Ahmed Ali Butt and Sohai Ali Abro
PHOTOS COURTESY LOTUS CLIENT MANAGEMENT & PUBLIC RELATIONS
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Amber Liaqat, Nosheen, Sehyr and Aden
Amna Babar
Meesha, Janvi and Hassan Shehryar Yaseen
Mehreen Syed
Anam and Sehr
PHOTOS COURTESY LOTUS CLIENT MANAGEMENT & PUBLIC RELATIONS
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Zohaib and Maira Chinoy
Tara and Beenish with her daughter
13 JUNE 14-20 2015
FEATURE
Into the wild
Ditch the vanilla trips in favour of a more earthy experience with unexpected forks in the road TEXT AND PHOTOS BY MOIN KHAN DESIGN BY SANOBER AHMED
Mongolian tents, also known as ‘ger’ or ‘yurt’.
18 View of a school in Kashmir. JUNE 14-20 2015
You are supposed to relax when you’re on vacation, not scurry around trying to hit all the cool tourist spots. The more uptight you are, the more you deny yourself the pleasure of living in the moment
Embarking on a backpacking adventure can be a lifechanging experience — whether you decide to go on a camping trip for a few days, explore your country for a week or venture into different corners of the world for months at a stretch. I can guarantee that once you start, you won’t stop. That first taste of backpacking will most likely turn you into an adventure addict. But unfortunately, a very small percentage of people are willing to do away with their wheeled luggage. I place travelling in two major categories. First, there are the vanilla trips. These are planned trips to places that cost an arm and a leg. They are vacations for which hotel rooms need to be booked months in advance, research is needed to create a touristy itinerary and exhaustive lists are prepared, ranging from musteat restaurants to how much one would expect to spend on taxi fares. The second category of travelling is
a ‘rocky road’ trip. They are full of spontaneity, obstacles and wonderful surprises. Sure, those who decide to travel this way have an idea of when and where they want to go, but they don’t have limitations. Maps are used only to guide the traveller in a certain direction, but the destination is usually left to fate. Experiences are dependent on chance happenings because travellers understand that the word “must” narrows the avenue for potential adventures. Most people travel the vanilla way because it’s a safe bet. There is nothing wrong with wanting to go where others have been before or to take pictures of things that have already been photographed. Some simply prefer a path already beaten. But if you’re like me, you want to be the one to trample down paths yourself; you feel that the journey is just as important as the destination and you don’t want to limit yourself to one point on the map when you
The author outside his tent.
Staying calm and collected will give you clarity of mind and allow you to think of a way to get out of the funk you’re in
The author and his friend having lunch in Mongolia.
Breathtaking view of a lake in Hunza valley. can roam and play connect-the-dots at the end of the day. Sometimes, the desire to depart from these planned trips is hindered by lack of knowledge on where to begin. Here are a few pointers that will hopefully give you a starting point.
1) Get yourself a reliable backpack A bag on your back gives you the freedom to carry your belongings with you through both cities and jungles. You might end up in countries where there are no paved streets. You might be trying to catch a train that is already moving. You might be forced to trek a long distance to get to a certain location. Mind you, this 19 JUNE 14-20 2015
3) Learn to relax You are supposed to relax when you’re on vacation, not scurry around trying to hit all the cool tourist spots. The more uptight you are, the more you deny yourself the pleasure of living in the moment. I’m not saying you have to let go of your structured life, but giving yourself a vacation from a schedule will allow you to fully enjoy the backpacking experience.
4) Don’t Panic!
Tents pitched by spectators at Shandur, the highest polo ground in the world.
There will always come a day when nothing goes right. Every traveller has experienced it. Your wallet may get stolen or you may lose your passport or you may be unable to find a single bed in town to rent for the night. Maybe it’s pouring on a hiking trail and you’re stuck scrambling to set up camp. But to every problem is a possible solution. Staying calm and collected will give you clarity of mind and allow you to think of a way to get out of the funk you’re in. This is one piece of advice that I received from a fellow motorcyclist at the start of my San Francisco to Pakistan motorcycle trip. It was the best advice I had ever received; it’s a mantra I repeat to myself whenever I’m travelling.
5) Be open-minded A rocky road trip across Hunza valley. isn’t the type of backpack that you would use to carry your books to class. It needs to be big enough to carry everything you’ll be taking on the trip. The pack should fit your frame nicely — not too small, but definitely not too big. You and the pack will spend many long years together and share countless adventures with each other. The bags I am generally fond of are the ones with full-length zips, weather protection specs and feature 20 a compartment that fits my laptop. JUNE 14-20 2015
2) Pack light This is where you practice how to become a minimalist: you don’t want your bag bursting at the seams and you don’t want to break your back by packing unnecessary, heavy items. Make a list of what you need and then go through each item to make sure that they are in fact “needed” and not just “wanted”. The items you need will vary, depending on where it is that you want to go (location, climate, terrain, etcetera).
This is probably the most important pointer. Be receptive to learning about the places you visit — the culture, the food and the people. Backpacking is a time when you can shed the ethnocentric attitude and appreciate the diversity this world has to offer. Be open-minded about trying new things. Try to be a “yes person” and step out of your comfort zone. Backpacking is all about letting go of limitations (safely, of course) and giving yourself many options. Moin Khan is a traveller who has motorcycled from San Francisco to Lahore. He tweets @DifferentAgenda. You can also follow his visual diary on Instagram @adifferentagenda
COVER STORY
Travel Tales Four travel destinations that could inspire your next holiday
Sedona
China
28 JUNE 14-20 2015
Travelling is all about moments: moments of beauty that you can capture on a camera, moments of trust when a stranger guides you to your destination, moments of relief when you find shelter in a cosy cafe during a downpour and moments of sheer joy when you’ve hiked to the top of a mountain for the first time. People search for moments that last a lifetime. But to pin down the perfect destination is not always easy; many have a limited budget while others can’t reach a consensus among family members and friends. To make 2015 memorable and to help you narrow down your options based on your individual travel preferences, here are four travel tales to inspire your next holiday. From snow-capped Shimla to sunny Arizona, let the beautiful landscapes lift your spirits and guide your next adventure.
Skardu
Shimla
DESIGN BY HIRA FAREED
Moving mountains
u awe-inspiring grandeur of Skard the h wit ete mp co n ca tas vis Few natural A AZAM BY FERYA ILYAS | DESIGN BY EESH
winding nature: walking up steep roads to se clo ly tab for com you es A trip to Skardu tak tle with chilled water and pping by a stream to refill your bot sto s, ain unt mo g erin tow h oug ws. The tranquil town thr as you take in the breathtaking vie uth mo r you in ts ico apr ed dri g has many sightseeing poppin nt for most trekking missions and poi g rtin sta a is n sta alti it-B offers an intriguing in Gilg para Lake to Shigar Fort, Skardu Sat and k Roc dha Bud m Fro er. gems to off blend of history and nature.
ake, in Sheosar L Plains. of Deosai
the midst
: LOVE OURTESY PHOTO C E OOK PAG N FACEB BALTISTA
Shangrila Lake in
all its glo PHOTO ry. CREDIT: MARYAM TARIQ
Upper Kachura Accessible only by foot, the Upper Kachura Lake is a pristine pool hidden between barren hills. The 70-metre-deep lake freezes in winter, allowing children to play cricket on ice, while in the summer, tourists and locals throng to its banks to take a dip in the clear waters. If you want a peaceful moment to soak in the beauty, take a 10-minute boat ride to the other end or enjoy a cup of piping hot tea and fried fish at the blue-coloured teahouse near the end of the lake.
Deosai plains Sitting silently at the boundary of the Karakoram Mountains, the Deosai plains — famously known as ‘the land of the giants’ — is one of nature’s underappreciated gifts. The flat land, which stretches 4,000 metres
30 JUNE 14-20 2015
above sea level, resting calmly in the arms of the mighty range, is among the world’s highest plains. A short drive into the plains takes you to Sheoasar Lake, also known as the ‘Blind Lake’. Though ideal for picnics in summer, the freezing winds that blow here during the colder months make it almost impossible to enjoy the surrounding beauty.
Kharpocho Fort Built during the 17th Century, this colossal fort is around 1,400 metres above the city and is only accessible by a 30-minute uphill trek. The path is tricky to say the least: it starts off smoothly, but as you ascend, the rocks under your feet begin to give away and the slope only gets steeper as you near the Fort’s entrance. The struggle doesn’t
end there. The Fort’s massive wooden door is kept shut, which means that one can only enter by squeezing through a small window-like opening. As you explore Kharpocho, you yearn to go back in time: witness the king standing in one of the balconies, admiring his kingdom and overseeing his royal servants climb the unfriendly mountain, as they carry water vessels for the bath; behold the queen combing her hair in one of the rooms ventilated in a way such that they remain cool even during summer, or see the royals gather for a meeting at the Masjid-ePanjatun Pak in the courtyard. The Kharpocho Fort is not just an architectural marvel, designed as a luxury living quarter, but a cleverly crafted structure, and legend has it that it includes a hidden tunnel within the mountain used by the royals during times of war.
ine Satpara Lake. The calm and prist MARYAM TARIQ PHOTO CREDIT:
Shangrila Lake No picture can do justice to this heart-shaped body of water. The red-top pagoda guesthouses around the lake cast their magical reflection in the still waters, adding to the lake’s scenic value. If you observe the waters closely, you can see trout swimming fearlessly here, as though they know that fishing in the lake is not allowed. Nestled in the middle of the mighty Himalayas, Shangrila Lake is about 2,500 metres above sea level. Also known as Lower Kachura Lake, it is located inside Shangrila Resorts a popular tourist destination. From a distance, the lake looks like a glass floor and it takes a boat ride across to believe it is actually water. Although it’s one of the smaller lakes in the region, Shangrila Lake gets its fair share of tourists. A 20-minute hike inside the resort takes you to a vantage point from where you can get a bird’s eye view of the lake. For a city dweller like myself, there were moments when I thought my feet would give way, but I trudged along with the promise of a spectacular view. And once I reached the top, I knew it was worth it. T Ferya Ilyas is a senior subeditor at The Express Tribune. She tweets @ferya_ilyas
The Kharp just an a ocho Fort is not designed architectural marvel, quarter, b s a luxury living crafted s ut a cleverly legend hastructure, and a hidden t it that it includes mountain u unnel within the during tim sed by the royals es of war
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CHINA Orient Express
A quick visit to the fabled land of China, the modernised ‘West of the East’
t, I had jing Capital International Airpor As the plane touched down at Bei lennia mil was in a land steeped in three to pinch myself. I had made it; I from ghbouring country, not too far of history. Even as I was in a nei velled light years to a fast-paced tra Pakistan, it felt as though I had us in -zero temperature that greeted sub the modernised nation. Despite fade not l wil t tha of the airport is one China, the memory of stepping out e, as developed and maintained as stin anytime soon. Everything was pri erican or European city. you could expect to find in any Am
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY BILAL ABBAS | |DESIGN BY
ESSA MALIK
33 JUNE 14-20 2015
COVER STORY
A glittering cityscape at night.
China is infamous for much. However, human rights issues or stringent government control has not kept the tourists at bay. Hong Kong alone drew an estimated 60.8 million visitors in 2014, a 12% increase since 2013, according to the official tourism commission. Having heard so much about the notoriously polluted city of Beijing — the World Health Organisation said earlier this year that pollution here has soared to 20 times the recommended limit — I was surprised to find the smog was conspicuous by its absence. My first challenge here was to decipher signs. While Beijing closely resembled many Western cities I had travelled to, the language barrier here was a constant reminder of my location. It was this similarity and dissonance that led me to label China ‘the West of the East’.
Tiananmen Square
A government building near Tiananmen Square.
Located in the centre of Beijing, the square — the fourth largest city square in the world — is named after the gate, Tiananmen, to the north side, which separates the square from the Forbidden City. On June 4, 1989, the square was the site of a brutal crackdown against thousands of protestors. Today, the square reminds one of locations such as London’s Trafalgar Square, were it not for the smartly dressed contingents of People’s Army soldiers parading in groups of six to 10. Their faces expressionless and their movements robotlike, these soldiers make you think twice about getting on their wrong side. At the Western edge of the square is the Great Hall of the People, the political hub of Beijing and the venue for state affairs and diplomatic A historic building at Tiananmen activities. When the space was created in Square, spotted while walking 1958, it is reported that then-president Mao to the museum. Zedong noted the enthusiasm displayed by the builders working on the project and thus named the structure ‘the Great Hall of the People’. Here, each hall represents a province or administrative region of China. There are 34 halls in total, including the Tibet Hall and the Hong Kong Hall.
National Museum of China While some controversial episodes in the national historical narrative have been whitewashed in this museum, there’s still plenty — in fact, more than can be seen in just one visit
A taxi in Shenzen, where the population is largely comprised of the youth and where Cantonese is the main spoken language.
Breakfast in Beijing.
e republic from e visual history of th — to explore here. Th n and beyond is till the 1949 revolutio ium nn lle mi a er ov ys, based over through those displa ing Go . ing tak ath bre s and ultimately, me three to four hour multiple floors, took several collections gh time to explore there was not enou several centuries ifacts and ceramics exhibiting bronze art old.
Forbidden City
rly 15th Century was built in the ea The Forbidden City d Qing dynasties. e for the Ming an lac pa e th s wa d an o housed their of emperors and als It served as the home ff. ‘Forbidden sta es, among other wives and concubin Zijin Cheng. It of the Chinese word City’ is a translation premises, spaced anyone to enter the was ‘forbidden’ for the emperor’s 150 acres, without out over more than d, was also out of the palace, I was tol permission. Most of ror’s wife. bounds for the empe
A statue of Chairman Mao at the National Museum.
The Great Wall of China
A man is not a man until he climbs the Great Wall, proclaimed Chairman Mao. And I did! Although at moments it felt as though my legs would give up, my throat was dry and I was swe ating through the seven or so layers that I was wearing due to the cold weather, I managed to complete the challenge. The Wall was not how I had imagined it to be — it unfolded into the distance, as far as I could see, and was not one steep climb, but a series of peaks and falls over undulating hilltops. At the peak of one such hilltop, I tried to imagine hordes from the Nor th trying to climb over the Wall as the Chinese guards fou ght to defend it. It really is a sight to see and I’m glad I got the chance to. After all, the Great Wall is the onl y thing visible from the moon.T Bilal Abbas is a senior subeditor at The Express Tribune’s Islamabad bureau. He tweets @abbasbilal JUNE 14-20 2015
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Heading for the hills
A trip to Shimla is akin to going back in time, when the hill station was developing into a tourist attraction Looking out of the vehicle over the road at night, I wondered how Shimla would appear in the light of dawn. This wasn’t the only question swirling in my mind about my unexpected journey. As we got closer, I could feel a gradual dip in temperature. Once within a few kilometres from the capital city of the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, the dim lights in the distance started to reveal the contours of the landscape and my answers started to slowly take shape before me. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY VASIQ EQBAL | DESIGN BY HIRA FAREED
. nowfall er the s ft a la im e Sh er abov uds hov lo c k r a D
The monkey who plundered our pastries.
38 JUNE 14-20 2015
Suddenly, someone in the van broke the deep silence. “Would we be lucky enough to see snowfall in Shimla?” asked an inquisitive voice. A few wishful whispers echoed in uncertainty. A few moments later, visibility dropped and, as if on cue, snowflakes began to trickle down our windscreen, welcoming us to Shimla. The next day, I was woken up by a fellow traveller just after dawn. The sun hadn’t completely emerged from behind the mountains, but the light at the horizon was enough for me to soak in the beauty of Shimla. Last night’s snowfall had draped everything in white. Deserted but dazzling, the view was breathtaking. Shimla has a lot of history attached to it. From 1864 till Partition, the famous Indian hill station was declared the summer capital of British India. Etymology reveals that it was named after Hindu goddess Shyamala Devi, an incarnation of goddess Kali. The city is also the birthplace of former governor of Punjab Salmaan Taseer, television actor Rahat Kazmi, economist Shahid Javed Burki, Bollywood actor Anupam Kher and former English cricket captain Robin Jackman. Military dictator Ziaul Haq and former Afghan president Hamid Karzai even received their early education from Shimla. After breakfast, we all went out to explore the city. Our first destination was perhaps the most unlikely place for a tourist: a police station. Due to strained relations between both governments, laws for Pakistani citizens are different from the rest. Pakistani tourists are required to report at police stations in every city they visit in India. Thankfully, the exercise was over within 15 minutes. By now, Mall Road was teeming with people. The road begins from the place of a tall statue of Mahatma Gandhi and one of Indira Gandhi to the right. The famous Christ Church, library and administrative offices also straddle the road. Passing through it, the tantalising aroma of fresh coffee wafting through the air lured us to the establishment in question. A group member and I bought two cups of coffee and black forest pastries and were enjoying our snack on a nearby bench when we were suddenly attacked. Our attacker was not from the Border Security Police, Indian police or the bhai log of Bollywood, but from the animal kingdom — a monstrous monkey. It sneaked up from behind, pinched one of the remaining pastries and gobbled it instantly. The violation led us to abandon the bench and move on to see what else Shimla had to offer. The platitudes of tourist brochures describing the scenic beauty of Shimla are not entirely misleading. It is definitely a place worth visiting. A ban imposed on all vehicles on Mall Road by British colonial rulers is still in place today.
urch Christ Ch A view of ad. R m Mall o library fro
and
A ban imposed on all vehicles on Mall Road by British colonial rulers is still in place today. Despite the large number of visitors, the administration is trying hard to preserve the environment Despite the large number of visitors, the administration is trying hard to preserve the environment. Smoking in public is punishable with a fine of Rs500, while a penalty of Rs300 is slapped for spitting chewing gum on the streets. Wherever we shopped, paper bags were used. In grocery stores, people bought along their own cloth bags. Plastic pollution was almost non-existent, making one realise the need for a similar practice in Murree. Shimla is built on top of seven hills — Prospect Hill, Summer Hill, Observatory Hill, Inveram Hill, Bantony Hill, Jakhoo Hill and Elysium Hill. Jakhoo is the tallest of the seven, at a height of 2,455 metres above sea level. There is a temple on this hill, which was erected even before the British declared Shimla the summer capital. The red temple of god Hanuman is 108 metres tall, visible from almost every corner of the town. To reach the temple, one has to endure a steep climb of 2.5 kilometres.
The railway track of Shimla is also a Unesco world heritage site. The track snakes through more than a hundred manmade tunnels and the journey is famous for its splendid views. There is a famous tale about the Borog tunnel, the longest one. The engineer who made it could not align the two ends and was symbolically fined one rupee. He, however, could not live with the disgrace and committed suicide inside the tunnel. Later, another engineer had to complete it. After a tiring hike around town, I bought a Himachal cap as a souvenir and returned to the hotel. From the roof, I was able to capture a shot of the spectacular sunset. It certainly won’t be easy to forget this beauty that lies just beyond the border. Vasiq Iqbal is a Lahore-based photojournalist and travel writer. He tweets @ vasiq_eqbal.
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Sacred Sedona Located in the US state of Arizona, Sedona nourishes the soul with its wilderness BY ZOFEEN T EBRAHIM |DESIGN BY MARYAM RASHID
41 JUNE 14-20 2015
COVER STORY
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und this e walk aro th — k c o . PHOTO Bell R athtaking re b is vortex EBRAHIM ZOFEEN CREDIT:
42 JUNE 14-20 2015
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Apparently I am not the only one who thinks Sedona — in the northern Verde Valley region of the state of Arizona, US — is a must-see place. National Geographic has vouched for it and put it on its 11 best “summer trips picks” this year. With its majestic crimson red rock formations, monoliths and spires, shades of green, cacti and flowers against a bright blue sky with huge puffy white clouds as a backdrop, you will never get enough of the desert, the mountains or the red canyons. There will always be a spectacular view at the next bend. Even Lonely Planet calls it a “stunner” and Rand McNally (American publisher of maps, atlases, textbooks, etcetera) terms it one of the eight most scenic drives in America. Sedona, part of the Colorado plateau, sits 4,500 feet above sea level. It is not only considered a sacred place by Native Americans, but is truly a geological wonderland. Once covered by water, these red rock buttes (an isolated hill with steep sides and a flat top) we see today were once islands protruding from the bottom of the sea. Over eons, the sea receded and the layered sediment from volcanic activity was formed. Erosion by the wind and water created these amazingly sculpted wonders that are composed of basalt, sandstone and limestone. Ferrous oxide in the sandstone gives the red rocks their distinctive crimson hue. But Sedona’s claim to fame does not end with these spectacular rock sculptures. The town with its steep canyons and pine forests is also famed for its esotericism and spirituality. In fact, of the four million people who visit the place each year, 60% go there in search of a spiritual experience. People believe the world’s vortexes are located in Sedona. These are believed to be spiritual locations where the energy is right to facilitate prayer, mediation and healing. As such, there are yoga and reiki classes as well as spas to indulge in soothing treatments.
However, for many, it is a hiker’s paradise. Cathedral Rock, the most photographed and recognisable sight, can be climbed by foot or by using mountain bikes. But be sure to wear a good pair of shoes (it’s rocky, uneven and slippery), carry plenty of water to drink, put on sunscreen and cover your head as the sun can get really intense. You should be ready to use both your hands, and climbing down may mean sliding on your behind. Then there is the 3.6-mile Bell Rock trail. Though it has been closed, the walk around the base is peaceful and satisfying. About the Devil’s Bridge, some say it is a moderate hike, but it gets challenging as you get to the end as you have to use hands and knees to get up to the very top. But once at the top, the panoramic view is incredible and well worth all the travail. It’s a popular trail but if you’re looking for solitude alll if if you you yo u are arre a then this might not be the best choice, least off all in Sedona on a weekend. Zofeen T Ebrahim is a freelance an anc ance nce jour jjournalist. our urrnallist u i .S She he twe tweets etss @z @zofe @ @zofeen28 ofe feen2 en2 28
ehog erry hedg A strawb flower. h a purple cactus wit T. N E FE O REDIT: Z PHOTO C IM EBRAH
BOOK
A woman at war Assamese writer Arupa Patangia Kalita deftly examines how women are scarred by militancy — just don’t call her work ‘chick lit’ BY CAROL KHAN
Assamese writer Arupa Patangia Kalita returns with a collection of heartbreaking short stories in her latest literary offering, Written in Tears. Released after Kalita won the prestigious Sahitya Akademi Award for literary works in 2014, the collection explores the undercurrent of terrorism in India’s northeastern state of Assam. Civil unrest has plagued the fertile region of Assam for several decades. Kalita’s writing gets right to the heart of these security issues as viewed by marginalised members of society, namely Assamese women and young people, including domestic helpers, newlyweds, weavers and saleswomen. The subject at hand is how the lives of women are affected by militants and one of the more gripping stories in Kalita’s collection is the tale of a family whose son becomes radicalised and joins a band of local insurgents. A young woman arrives at her in-laws’ house as a newlywed bride only to discover that her brother-in-law is acting strange by distancing himself from the rest of the family. With time, the brother-in-law’s connection to militants comes to light and the family is violently ostracised by the community they live in. Another short story, perhaps the odd one out in the series, describes a half-burnt bus travelling through a village and charring everything as it passes through the town. With its use of magical realism, this story seems to be more of a folktale and thus, a departure from the rest of the stories which remain fiercely true to life. Some of the stories are disturbing and call to mind the injustice women suffer at the hands of a conservative society. One of Kalita’s novellas recounts the tale of a young woman who was seen touching a man in public. As a result, her coveted long hair was chopped off by locals as punishment. The reason for cutting her hair dated back to an old folktale which the villagers still followed. As the title of the book suggests, this collection recounts the harrowing experiences of women who live in a region scarred by conflict. Kalita examines the history of Assamese aggression and hatred that has existed for decades. In one interview, she stated that she does not wish to be referred to as a “woman writer”, even though much of her writing focuses on women’s issues. She previously even refused an award given to her based on gender, showcasing her vehement dislike for the label. Thus, while it may be easy for some readers to pass off Written in Tears as ‘chick lit’ due to its preoccupation with female characters, the book does not lend itself so neatly to such a stereotypical genre due to its weighty context.T
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Carol Khan is a Peshawar-based subeditor at The Express Tribune. She tweets @carolkhn JUNE 14-20 2015
Author Arupa Patangia Kalita
Far from flawless Far From the Madding Crowd is visually beautiful but suffers from a hasty plot line BY ALLY ADNAN
Director Thomas Vinterberg’s Far From the Madding Crowd is an engaging and entertaining film but lacks the romance, sweep and grandeur required to successfully adapt Thomas Hardy’s classic pastoral novel. The film will disappoint fans of Hardy looking for drama, love, angst, yearning and passion. Concise and fast-paced, the film fails to offer the necessary deep exploration of Hardy’s willful and independent heroine, Bathsheba Everdene. The root of the problem with Far From the Madding Crowd is its length. At 119 minutes, it is much shorter than John Schlesinger’s 160-minute long 1967 adaptation of the same novel, and omits a lot that was essential to the story. In order to keep the length short, the story has been trimmed to the bone, giving it the feel of contemporary, light-hearted romance, which is more appropriate for television rather than the large screen. Hardy’s interest in the unpredictability of fate, and in the effects of coincidence, accident and chance, are reduced to flimsy fatalism in a decidedly hurried and superficial treatment of the classic novel. Bathsheba Everdene (Carey Mulligan) is a spirited and willful young woman who inherits a large farm from her uncle. The young lady is determined to run the farm like a man — if not better — and while addressing her staff, proudly announces, “I shall astonish you all.” Busy realising her dream of running the farm successfully, Everdene attracts three suitors at the farm who leave her confused, amused and infatuated. The first among the suitors is the loyal and trustworthy shepherd, Gabriel Oak (Matthias Schoenaerts), whose proposal of marriage Everdene dismisses without much consideration. The second is William Boldwood (Michael Sheen), a middle-aged and rich landowner, who takes an obsessive liking to Everdene, but can neither win her heart nor get a clean break from her. The third is the strikingly handsome and rakish army
officer, Francis Troy (Tom Sturridge), who has a former lover and a fondness for gambling. Everdene knows that Troy is not the right person for her but she is unable to manage her feelings for the sergeant. Each man is attracted to the very independence that he wants to quell by marrying the heroine. And each one is wrong for her. Everdene believes that she is too good for each one of the three men she holds in thrall. She is unwilling to accept proposals of marriage and unable to cut the men out of her life. A woman with money, and some talent in running a farm, she questions her need to marry at all. Yet, she remains hopelessly dependent and emotionally involved with the three men in her life. It is a character that is difficult to like and even more difficult to understand. When the novel was first published in 1874, the heroine received very harsh treatment from critics. Reviews in The Observer, The Westminster Review and Nation were particularly scathing in their criticism of the character. Posterity has, of course, proved all the negative reviews wrong. The allure of the headstrong heroine has lasted for over a century but liking Hardy’s determined heroine is not easy. It requires a careful study of character, motivation and circumstance. Vinterberg’s film — the fifth adaptation of Hardy’s novel — allows no time for such study as it moves hastily from one plot point to the next. It reduces important characters in the novel, such as Fanny Robbin (Juno Temple) and Liddy (Jessica Barden), to cameo status and abbreviates crucial relationships, such as those between Robbin and Troy, Liddy and Everdene and Boldwood and Troy, to a few woefully underwritten scenes. This is a shame because its impeccable performances and superior production value could have made the film a true classic. Rating: Ally Adnan lives in Dallas and writes about culture, history and art. He tweets @allyadnan
Nature’s call
Tips and tricks to ensure that you’re a happy camper when venturing into the great outdoors BY SUFIA ZAMIR | DESIGN BY MARYAM RASHID
Feeling claustrophobic in the city and wishing you could just disconnect from civilisation (and your phone) for a while? A camping trip might be exactly what you need. Read on to make sure you have your bases covered before you start dreaming of sleeping under the stars.
Essentials
01Basic medication 02 Swiss army knife 03Water bottles and ORS 04Joggers
05 Matchboxes 06 Map and compass 07 Moisturiser, sunscreen (at least SPF 50) 08 Torches with visibility of at least 15 feet
Navigation
Do not rely on Google Maps as this requires network coverage which may not be available. If your group decides to split up, decide on a time and place to regroup and make sure everyone knows how to get there.
What to wear Wear as many layers of fitted clothing as you think necessary to keep you warm and avoid clothing that constricts movement. Securely pin any headscarves, leave spectacles and contact lenses at home and use tight-fitting prescription sunglasses instead.
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Invest in a new pair of trainers/shoes as the cushioning in older pairs wears out with use.
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Food and drink You may not feel hungry but eat anyway and stick to vegetables and fruits while avoiding salty snacks. You can get dehydrated without knowing it. Drink three to four litres of water daily, mixing two of these with ORS. Avoid carrying gas cylinders and lighters for cooking as these may explode at high altitudes.
Keep yourself warm by drinking hot soup and yakhni. Have sweets or candy at hand in case of dizzy spells.
Protection from nature Keep your eyes and ears open at all times. Rattling sounds usually signal earthquakes and avalanches. Avoid standing in the path of running water even if it appears to have dried up. You never know when and with what pressure the water will begin to flow again. Insect repellents keep most creepy-crawlies away. A strong walking stick can come in handy for scorpions and snakes. Sufia Zamir is a Karachi-based freelance writer.
JUNE 14-20 2015
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