MARCH 24-30 2013
MARCH 24-30 2013
Cover Story
20 Iron Butterflies There’s no glass ceiling when you’re flying 10,000 metres above the ground!
Features
30 Going, Going, Gone Lahore’s Mughal monuments are fast fading away
34 Say No to Nomophobia Rehman Malik may be gone, but mobile phone bans are here to stay. Here’s your guide to communicating when the signals are lost
36 In Search of Lightship Sindhi
20
A chance trip to Cape Monze uncovers a lost piece of history
30 Regulars
6 People & Parties: Out and about with Pakistan’s beautiful people 40 Reviews: : Jack’s Giant Adventure 42 Healthy Living: We all scream for Suncreen!
36
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Magazine Editor: Zarrar Khuhro, Senior Sub-Editor: Farahnaz Zahidi, Sub-Editors: Ameer Hamza, Heba Al-Adawy and Dilaira Mondegarian. Creative Team: Amna Iqbal, Jamal Khurshid, Essa Malik, Maha Haider, Faizan Dawood, Samra Aamir, Sanober Ahmed. Publisher: Bilal A Lakhani. Executive Editor: Muhammad Ziauddin. Editor: Kamal Siddiqi. For feedback and submissions: magazine@tribune.com.pk Printed: uniprint@unigraph.com
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Saadia Mirza presents her latest bridal collection in Lahore
Sadaf and Saira
PHOTOS COURTESY SAVVY PR AND EVENTS
Ayaan
Mehreen, Izza, Farheen and Seyham
Erum and Yasmin
Noor and Fatima Kasuri Rabiya Mumtaaz
6 MARCH 24-30 2013
Kauser Humayun
MARCH 24-30 2013
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Zainab and Saadia Mirza
PHOTOS COURTESY SAVVY PR AND EVENTS
Mehvish and Arjumand Amin
Mehreen Syed and Neha
Natasha
Asad Mirza
Sehyr and Hina Mahlia Lone
8 MARCH 24-30 2013
Saira Rizwan
MARCH 24-30 2013
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Farid
Iman
Alizeh
Hassan Farid Khan launches a chocolate bar in Lahore
Sehyr and Hina
Ayla, Zainab and Changez Ghalib and Sara
10 MARCH 24-30 2013
Jenny and Mehvish
PHOTOS COURTESY SAVVY PR
Faiza and Kiran
MARCH 24-30 2013
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Amber and Sunaina Annie and Sonia
PHOTOS COURTESY SAVVY PR
Aliha and Asma
Naila and Amina
Mehreen, Izza and Farheen
Asad and Kinza Samia and Ayesha
12 MARCH 24-30 2013
Erum and Sania
MARCH 24-30 2013
PEOPLE & PARTIES
The art exhibition ‘Labyrinth of Reflections: The Art of Rashid Rana’ opens at Mohatta Palace Museum in Karachi
Zeelaf PHOTOS COURTESY CATALYST PR AND MARKETING
Chandni Saigol
Ayesha Toor and Schaz
Aroosa Rashid Khan and Bushra Razzaq
14
Nasreen Askari and Maheen Karim MARCH 24-30 2013
Tapu Javeri and Maida Azmat
Frieha Altaf and Maheen Khan Saba Obaid
MARCH 24-30 2013
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Abacus Consulting celebrates its Silver Jubilee at the Royal Palm Lahore
Mr and Mrs Ayub Khan
Mr and Mrs Asad Ali Khan
Mr and Mrs Johnson Gill
Mr and Mrs Sarosh Qamer
Murtaza Ali Khan and Paul Batchelor Mr and Mrs Amir Shah
16 MARCH 24-30 2013
PHOTOS COURTESY J&S
Mr and Mrs Irfan Said
MARCH 24-30 2013
MARCH 24-30 2013
MARCH 24-30 2013
COVER STORY
20
Meet the flying furies of the Pakistan Air Force MARCH 24-30 2013
BY MAHA MUSSADAQ
PHOTOS COURTESY MYRA IQBAL AND PAF
“We lock onto each other’s planes in the air and fake a battle, until one of us proclaims ‘I’m dead,’” says the 24-year-old Flying Officer, Ayesha Omar Farooq. She is one of the many female pilots who now bolster the ranks of the Pakistan Air Force. When she takes off from the tarmac, the responsibility of flying a multi-million dollar fighter is hers and
hers alone. Gone are the days when women in the military were
only restricted to the fields of medicine and engineering. With the passage of time, women in the Pakistan Air Force (PAF) have
(Continued on page 26)
MARCH 24-30 2013
21
MARCH 24-30 2013
MARCH 24-30 2013
MARCH 24-30 2013
MARCH 24-30 2013
COVER STORY
I feel amazing when I am in the air, at the top of the world. There is no feeling that matches the adrenaline rush of when we take off jet. “Every time I am about to take off, I speak to my mother. She says whenever I’m up in the air, her heart sinks. But I do see the
pride in her eyes,” she says. Her training has been demanding, but Anam is proud to have made it this far at a young age. “I am proud to say that I am a fighter pilot today. I feel amazing when
I am in the air, at the top of the world. There is no feeling that matches the adrenaline rush of when we take off. Hearing my
heart beat in my head, the excitement is unmatchable,” she says. But it is still a fact that, all over the world, the armed forces
are largely a boy’s club. So how do these young girls blend in this macho environment? Anam says that they have never felt
discriminated against or threatened by their male counterparts. “If anything, they have been extremely supportive” she says.
Missions in the Air Force are not allocated on gender basis and branched into different units and today, they are even inducted as frontline Fighter Pilots. Dressed in crisp uniforms with embellished stars on their shoulders and smiles on their faces, a group
of female officers gather at the Pakistan Air Force (PAF) to talk about their experiences. They are the conquerors of the skies,
and the pride they take in their positions and achievements is visible in their demeanour. Their faces, radiant with courage
and confidence break into smiles and laughter effortlessly. It is easy to forget that, in order to get to this much sought-after po-
sition, each and every one of them has had to put in countless hours of hard work and have had to make many sacrifices.
For these pilots, the sky is not the limit. When it comes to fly-
ing fighter jets, the higher you soar, the greater are the heights
patterns in the basic fighter maneuvers are what excite her the most. “We risk our lives, early mornings or late at night, but it is
all worth it!” she says. Adding to that, Ayesha Omar Farooq says
that she enjoys her training in bombing the most. “The jolt felt
in the aircraft once the bomb lands on the ground is just exciting. My mother is a really strong woman and I look up to her. After losing my father at an early age, I now feel like I am the man
of my family and I feel that the Air Force has made me stronger than ever,” she says. Both Anam and Ayesha fly their own fighter
planes today and are amongst the few handpicked fighter pilots
in the PAF. “The scope for women to enter this profession is high; it is demanding but rewarding” says Ayesha.
Squadron leader Sania Iqbal, a member of the Administration
that you discover. It is only when you push both yourself and
Branch, says that women are now present in almost every unit
of. 23-year-old Flying Officer Anam Faiq, was the first in her fam-
wanted to be a typical housewife. Owing to her family back-
your aircraft to its limits that you discover what you are capable ily to join the military. As a little girl, she would attend the annual parades with her father on the 23rd of March in Islamabad.
“I was so fascinated to see those planes soaring high. I always thought to myself that one day I will also fly a plane.” Back then,
her image of pilots was that of tall, dashing and muscular men. “But of course that’s not the case anymore,” she says with a
laugh. Anam has now spent six years in the air force and is now in charge of her own F-7 fighter plane.
26
everyone gets an equally tough assignment. The simulated war
Even after years of being a pilot, she says that there are times
when her parents cannot believe that she actually flies a fighter MARCH 24-30 2013
of the PAF. A Masters graduate in English literature, Sania never ground in the military service, she always aspired to be a part of the PAF and jumped at the opportunity as soon as she heard of
it. “There was no turning back after that point” she says. With eleven years of experience in the administration of different units at the PAF, she believes that women are the best managers, and she’s certainly glad for the support that having other women
around gives her: “We have seen tough times together and we
support each other. You don’t feel alone, and you know someone will stand up for you in difficult times. The pride, the comfort,
the perks aside, serving in the Pakistan Air force is a serious chal-
the Air Headquarters in Islamabad at the Directorate of Safety.
Missions in the Air Force are not allocated on gender basis and everyone gets an equally tough assignment
shoulders. With eleven years of work experience, she calls her
the women outside the Air Base. Squadron leader Shakeela Naaz,
leave our worries and personal matters outside the tower. I am a
ments on the difference between themselves and the women of
lenge that we battle everyday”, she says.
While these women endure strenuous work hours and tough
training regimes in the air, those on ground-duty don’t have it easy either. Many of these women are also mothers and wives on double duty. Standing tall and confident among the officers is Flight Lieutenant Munazzah Akbar Khan, who works at
As a mother of two, she has more than one responsibility on her present posting “the most stressful job in the world.” “We have to
mother but at the same time I am an officer, so once I enter the
tower I cannot think about anything else. I feel like a super wom-
an at times,” she adds. Along with the Air Force, she is also incharge of military and civil traffic. “But that’s not all,” she says,
a training officer at the Faisal Base Engineering Wing, com-
other professions. “We are dressed in uniform the whole day and don’t even know how it feels to wear heels anymore” she laughs. “We have to pick up magazines to learn the latest trends.”
But if training in the Air Force keeps them away from the
“one must also take care of flight safety, in air and on-ground
changing fashion vistas of Pakistan, it certainly inculcates in
single flaw. Lives are at stake and it is a huge responsibility es-
the Air Force for the last 12 years, says that her job, taxing as it
emergencies, and rescue and fire services. We cannot afford a
pecially when we deal with VIP and VVIP movements.” Like her
colleagues, Munazzah says there is no discrimination when it comes to work and women have to work just as hard as the men.
“Quick decisions, high attention level, stressful night duties are all very challenging but a great learning experience,” she says.
Though it may be a struggle to remain at par with the men, it
is just as challenging, and sometimes amusing, to keep up with
them iron-clad confidence. Shakeela, who has been working in may be, has given her the confidence to embrace any challenge
that comes her way. “Everyone is always on rotation,” she says,
“from learning to manage the electronics of aircrafts to manning
the Air Defence setup. Everything needs to be maintained with-
out any error, and quality checks are very important.” Sharing similar views, Squadron Leader at the AHQ Islamabad, Ayesha
Waheed says that the Air Force experience has transformed her MARCH 24-30 2013
27
COVER STORY
I am a mother but at the same time I am an officer, so once I enter the tower I cannot think about anything else. I feel like a super woman at times
as a person. After eleven years of experience
sion. “Twelve years ago there were 46 Lady Of-
ty Magazine. “If I had lived the normal life of a
over 200 officers working in different units.
is now working with the Air Force’s Flight Safehousewife, my life would feel empty,” she says.
She recalls being a shy girl who had no confidence to speak to anyone. “I think my experi-
There is not a single unit that does not have a lady officer,” says Amber.
These frontline female fighter pilots may be
in an unconventional profession in Pakistan,
It helps me grow as a person each day. I talk to
counter as women are no different from those
today I work on various issues for the Magazine. people with confidence now and confront them whenever I feel the need to,” she says, and adds with a smile: “It is good being in uniform.”
As years go by, more and more women are en-
tering the PAF in front-line positions. Squadron Leader Amber Raza, who is currently working
as an Assistant Director of Civil Contract Management, says that all assignments given to her
the past few years there has been a sudden boost MARCH 24-30 2013
ficers in our course and they have now crossed
ence has added so much to my knowledge that
as a lady officer were challenging at first. But in
28
in the number of women entering the profes-
in the training of teachers and the staff, she
but they believe that the social taboos they enin other professional fields. Opting for a pro-
fession in the PAF may take a lot of their time and energy, perhaps even at the expense of their families, but it rewards them with pride and honour. There is a lot that goes behind their
smiles and their calm exterior. Salute to these brave women who are serving the country so
dedicatedly, those who tell us confidently as we
doze off: “Sleep tight! The Pakistan Air Force is awake!”T
MARCH 24-30 2013
FEATURE
going, going,
gone…
The remnants of Mughal architecture in Lahore stand sadly derelict and neglected, crying out for restoration to their former glory BY MUHAMMAD ASIF NAWAZ
Shalimar Garden, barren and derelict
Lahore, the cultural capital of the country, owes its majestic aura mainly to history — a history that spans across many centuries and many eras. But it’s the Mughal influence that remains undeniably the strongest. A trip to Lahore is therefore incomplete without a pilgrimage to the remnants or Mughal glory. Unfortunately, remnants are exactly what they
MARCH 24-30 2013
Of course, there were times when the fountains at Shalimar Gardens wouldn’t run or the Lahore
Fort was too dingy for aesthetic appreciation. But I recall that I would always leave these places
with a sense of pride in the history of this city, and the entire subcontinent. There was always a hope for improvement.
But as the decades sped by, that hope is gone.
are. The lack of maintenance leaves one bitterly
The state of the Mughal buildings has now dete-
neglected.
buffs and archaeologists have given up. One is
disappointed at how these monuments have been
30
My earliest memories as a child are of visiting
the Badshahi mosque and the Shalimar Gardens.
riorated to such depressing lows that even history
forced to write about it, not because of an urge to criticise, but out of love for Lahore’s lost grandeur.
Go to the Fort and you’ll discover that more than half of it is
now closed to the public, and that a considerable area has been
converted into offices. The fountains in the Shalimar Gardens haven’t worked in years. In fact, finding any water in there at
all there is a stroke of luck, unless you happen to visit during the
monsoons. The compound of Jahangir’s tomb is another story entirely: you are strictly forbidden from wandering off into the
gardens or into Asif Khan’s tomb at the opposite end. These plac-
es now teem with addicts and it is highly likely that you will get mugged if you stray beyond the ‘safe’ zones. That’s not all…if you
venture to the Badshahi mosque, be prepared to get harassed by
Visitors leave behind their marks
people asking for donations. In the Wazir Khan mosque in the Walled City, you will have to pay a handsome amount in ‘unoffi-
cial fees’ in order to see the structure in its entirety. Meanwhile, Noor Jehan’s tomb has been practically reduced to a cricket ground for the locals of Shahdara.
The structures still have a lot to offer. Even in the face of sheer
neglect, they have a way of making you fall in love with them.
But the renovation being carried out here is so slow or ill-directed that it actually seems pointless. That is why visitors may end
up being more cynical than impressed, knowing that if instant
measures are not taken, these majestic reminders of the Mughal era will be a thing of the past.
It’s sad, really, that a city with such character is being denuded
of its precious charm so brazenly. And it’s even sadder to be a witness to such neglect and vandalism — that too, not in some faroff corner of the country but in this cultural capital!
A cleaner at the Fort summed it up rather philosophically, ‘When the present is s so gloomy and the future so bleak, who cares about the past?’
Who is to be blamed for this fiasco? The people of Lahore are
certainly guilty. They are guilty for not paying any regard to the
dignity of these sites, for throwing garbage everywhere and for covering centuries-old walls with inane graffiti.
But an inactive and uninterested government is the main
culprit here. If the whole of Lahore can be dug up for the mass-
transit project, and all the modern parks can be maintained so primly, is it too much to ask that the government pay some heed to these heritage sites as well, before they deteriorate to the point of no return? Giving credit where it’s due, the provincial
government has done some good work at other fronts in the city.
But that doesn’t compensate for their gross negligence of these places.
The caretakers of these sites have become rather glum. A clean-
er at the Fort summed it up rather philosophically, ‘When the
present is s so gloomy and the future so bleak, who cares about the past?’ A visitor to Shahdara Bagh expressed his cynicism
more practically: ‘Roads, parks and buses are always the better
options for a government to work upon. That is because history doesn’t get you votes!’
No Entry
31 MARCH 24-30 2013
FEATURE
say no to nomophobia Don't lose your cool when the signals are lost! Here's your guide to surviving mobile phone bans BY AMEER HAMZA AHMAD
Talk the talk, walk the walk First up are Walkie Talkies. While long range Walkie Talkies are illegal to operate without a proper license, short range ones are not. They can be found for around Rs. 4500-5000 at your local gun shop. They are extremely handy and you can use them anywhere (unless you’re at an airport or other radio sensitive environment). The major drawbacks are that short range walkie- talkies are only effective for about 460-920 meters, which makes then only slightly more effective than the classic cup-and-string phones we made as kids. Also, try explaining to the police why you are carrying a walkie talkie in your car. It won’t be fun.
We have so many things to thank Rehman Malik for, from his ability to be the first to reach the site of any major disaster, to his incredible collection of ties. He has made us laugh and cry, sometimes at the same time, and there are several indentations in my desk that can be credited to him for the amount of times his insightful analyses have caused me to repeatedly bash my head. But what we will always love him for is his single greatest
achievement: making the entire country suffer from Nomophobia. Before you start googling, let me explain: Nomophobia is the
abbreviated form of “No-mobile-Phone-Phobia” and is defined as
the fear of being out of mobile phone contact. Yes, we’re talking about the effects of Mr. Malik’s favourite counter-terrorism tech-
nique. Today, even the hint of a closure sends Pakistan’s mobile
users (120 million and counting) into a fear-fuelled frenzy. So,
to calm your frayed nerves, and to prove that Pakistanis are the undisputed masters of jugaar, we present you with ways to keep communicating even when the ‘lines’ are down.
LOVE OF THE LAND
Come on people, come on people! Reconnect your landline link!
Because if you don’t the One Pound Fish guy will come to your house and sing his song at you until you curl up into a foetal position and beg for mercy while sobbing uncontrollably. Seriously
though, the mobile phone bans have made us all once again trea-
sure our long lost landlines. But what do you do if you’re on the
34
move? Will we have to wait until PTCL turns into PPCL (Pakistan Pigeon Communication Limited)? The answer is NO! MARCH 24-30 2013
Satellite Phones Next we have satellite phones. Thuraya’s satellite phones range from Rs62,000 to Rs106,000 and both postpaid and prepaid packages are available. These phones operate as a standard GSM phone when they are in reach of local networks, and when they cannot locate the network they become satellite phones supported by Thuraya’s network. Thuraya Prepay SIM cards come with ten units of credit and are for Rs8,900. The subscription can be renewed annually for Rs3,980. and there is no monthly line rent. Scratch cards start at Rs1,050 (for 10 units) and go up to Rs47,800 (for 500 units) The Thuraya Postpaid SIM is free and there is no annual renewal fee. The monthly line rent is Rs1,700 and customers are billed for the units they use. Satellite phones may prove to be an expensive alternative as both parties would have to own the phones to keep in touch if the cellular network is down.
On Cloud 9 This is the most cost effective and practical way to keep in touch. PTCL offers numerous pocketable devices which can create mobile internet hotspots. You can then use your smartphone to connect to these hotspots, and with a variety of applications, keep in touch with your loved ones. The PTCL EVO Wi-Fi Cloud retails at Rs8,000 and offers speeds of up to 3.1Mbps with four months free internet. Monthly Charges: Rs2,100 (Applicable from the 5th month onwards) The PTCL EVO Nitro Wi-Fi Cloud retails at Rs12,000 and offers speeds of up to 9.3Mbps with 4 months free internet. Monthly Charges: Rs3,000 (Applicable from the 5th month onwards) The PTCL EVO Wingle USB retails at Rs7,500 and offers speeds of up to 9.3Mbps with 3 months free internet. Monthly Charges: Rs1,500-Rs2,500 (Applicable from the 3rd month onwards) While the EVO Clouds have their own built-in battery, the EVO Wingle does not. It requires an external power source. That means you will either need to connect it to a laptop, car stereo system, car cigarette lighter or a power socket to power the device. If you already purchased a USB internet dongle from Worldcall, PTCL or WiTribe, then you can convert it into a mobile hotspot by purchasing a portable wireless router to power and operate your USB on the go. These devices have a built in battery and by attaching your UMTS/HSPA/EVDO USB modem, this pocket router will create a portable WiFi hotspot which will allow you to have access to the internet anywhere. These devices cost between Rs2,500 to Rs5,500. Now that you’re connected to your very own portable hotspot, you can communicate via email, Twitter and Facebook chat. There are also a bunch of applications that you can use. While the BlackBerry Messenger (BBM) only allows you to communicate with other Blackberry users, there are other apps that you can use to keep in touch. Whatsapp, Skype, Viber and Voxer are all viable alternatives. These are free applications that work on almost all phones. Whatsapp and Voxer are messaging apps. Both can send and receive messages, pictures, location coordinates and voice messages. Voxer also has a unique “push-to-talk” system which lets users listen to messages at their convenience and talk one-to-one with other users. Skype and Viber, while also messaging apps, also allow the user to make phone calls over the internet. Remember: All these apps require both the sender and receiver to have the respective app installed on their phones.
But that’s not all folks… Apart from plunging you into a communications blackhole, the mobile phone bans have a more serious effect as well: most home security systems are connected to telephone lines but some of them may be connected through GSM. That means if the cellular networks are blocked then the security company will not be alerted if there is an emergency during that period. Contact your home security service to ensure you are protected at all times.
Car Trackers Anti-theft car tracking devices mostly operate through the cellular network. When the cellular networks are shutdown, your tracking company loses the ability to keep track of your car and your car is vulnerable to theft. Some people have experienced car shutdowns during the cellular ban, this is due to the anti-jamming devices installed in their cars. Some car tracking devices are fitted with an anti-jamming device. When the cellular network is down, these anti-jamming devices assume that a thief is jamming cellular signals to steal the car, so the car is shut down. The only way to restart the car is to either tow it to your car tracking company or to wait till the cellular network comes back online. You can contact your tracking company to have the anti-jamming device removed/modified but it may invalidate your car insurance. Con35 tact your car tracking company for more details.T MARCH 24-30 2013
FEATURE
in search of lightship sindhi “Unexpectedly I found the final remains of a ship built in 1916, not buried in the dark depths of the ocean, but shining brightly at a height of 158 feet right besides the sea. Such has been the fate of “Lightship Sindhi” after its “bright” career.” BY ADIL MULKI
Bell from Lightship Sindhi
In the year 1916, the British Government of India, commissioned the “Lightship Sindhi” that was to be one of its most trusted and useful lightships.
elty value rather than for their maritime util-
Lightships, as the name suggests, are ships
coast of Sindh. During World War I, she served
with huge lights that guide maritime traffic. Unlike lighthouses, they can be shifted from
one place to another and were often stationed in places where it was difficult to construct
lighthouses. However, with the advancement in construction techniques and the innovation
of unmanned lighthouses and light-buoys, lightships are fast becoming obsolete. Most of the remaining lightships of the world are
36
maintained purely for their historical and novMARCH 24-30 2013
ity. But back in 1916, the Lightship Sindhi was
a welcome addition to British India’s maritime assets. Built at the Royal Indian Marine Dock-
yard in Bombay, she was meant to serve off the off the Iranian island of Qais and was very valuable to maritime traffic. After the war, she was
stationed off what was then known as the Hajamrao creek in the Indus Delta region. Her light
is said to have been visible at a distance of 10
miles. Had she been serving in the same area today, perhaps there would have been fewer Pakistani fishermen languishing in Indian jails and vice versa!
Pakistan inherited the vessel after partition
Unlike old soldiers, old ships don’t just fade away. Some end up in Davy Jones’ locker while others are tugged into ship breaking yards like our very own Gadani to be broken down
It’s not a cactus – it’s a “puffer fish” we saw during the 5km hike and its duties were invaluable in the develop-
away. Some end up in Davy Jones’ locker while
in what was then East Pakistan. In retrospect,
our very own Gadani to be broken down. Some
ment of the port of Chalna on the Passur River if such development work in Pakistan’s eastern
wing had continued, the sense of deprivation felt by the Bengalis may have been reduced and history may have played out very differently.
Alas, that was not to be, and the Light Ship Sindhi, along with other craft, were once again summoned to West Pakistan. I developed an in-
others are tugged into ship breaking yards like are luckier and become “museum ships” that remain afloat for many years after being decommissioning. Lightship Sindhi, however, seemed to have disappeared into the red tape
Bermuda Triangle of government records, faded memories and other priorities.
As luck would have it, a recent camping trip
terest in the vessel after coming across an old
with friends took us to a tucked away corner on
archives. However, despite my interest, I could
stands what was once the “most westerly light-
photograph of the vessel in the British Library
not trace the ultimate fate and present-day whereabouts of Lightship Sindhi.
Unlike old soldiers, old ships don’t just fade
Sindh’s land mass called Cape Monze, where house in India”. “Ras Mauri” is the name that was given to the point by Arab cartographers.
37
In Arabic “Ras” is a pointed land mass jutting MARCH 24-30 2013
FEATURE
As I came around it, I could not believe my eyes — lo and behold — engraved on the weathered but shiny bell were the letters “Light Ship Sindhi 1916”. I had found her, or what remained of her, at last!
out to sea — or simply put — a cape. An example is the emirate, Ras Al-Khaima in the UAE. Over time, with the inter-play of British and Arab
cartography, Ras Mauri became Cape Monze,
though it is still referred to by its Arab name in some maritime maps. Today, not many in the nearby Karachi know about the graceful light-
house, which is fondly called the “Batti” by the fishermen who use it for finding their way in the sea at night. It was commissioned in 1914 at a cost
of Rs 157,894 and constructed by the Public Works
Department of the Government of Bombay. It has braved many storms and guided countless ships
to safety over a period of almost a century. At 158 feet it is easily the tallest lighthouse in Pakistan — but is often denied that distinction as this information is not widely available.
Unlike the Manora lighthouse, the Cape Monze
lighthouse is not visible from Karachi or even
from its popular beaches. In this case, out of sight is truly out of mind. To use another cliché, time
truly seems to have stood still here, and even in this day and age, cell phone coverage is not available. But for the locals at least, the memory of
the lighthouse has not faded. A descendant of one of the workers told me that the materials for
the lighthouse were brought on camels to this remote location. Amazingly to this day, water and
provisions for the staff manning the lighthouse are still brought on camels!
We were originally supposed to enjoy an off-
road drive to the lighthouse, but being unable to find a car, we had to trek across five kilometres
of rocky terrain to get there. The bonfire by the seemingly haunted “resthouse” under a starry
sky and the revolving light-beams of the lighthouse was an experience to cherish for a lifetime.
In the morning, our group made its way up the
painfully steep and seemingly endless flights of steps spiralling to the light at the top. As one
climbs up, the tower gets narrower and narrower
inducing claustrophobia combined with a shortness of breath that makes you feel as if you are
drowning — admittedly the condition is worsened if one is over-weight and has smoked heavily for a decade!
The laborious climb was not in vain as it af-
forded a unique opportunity to experience a walk
through a “living museum” of sorts. The Burma
teak, wrought iron railing, stone masonry and
Lighthouse at dawn
Looking westwards
iron platforms on each floor, are nothing
No other podium would have been
merged with the Cape Monze Lighthouse.
light after the bright career of Light-
exist at that time and hence the vessel, is
short of living history itself. The light ap-
high enough and more under the spot-
radiant Fresnel Lens made by Chance
ship Sindhi. Decades after its decom-
paratus is no surprise, as it has a HyperBrothers of Britain and a manual wind-up
mechanism to make it revolve, as it floats on a mercury chamber — very similar to the Manora Lighthouse.
The real surprise lay came when I went
out on the balcony to take in the breathtaking view of the rocky beaches and small
cliffs on either side of the lighthouse. Once I got over the initial awe of the view,
missioning, its bell, the de-facto birth
Monze Lighthouse on the western most
inner metal supports. It is said that de-
hangs at its contemporary, the Cape tip of Sindh’s shoreline at the point of
Ras Mauri. This then is the final resting place of the Lightship Sindhi, or part of it, at least.
But what happened to the ship itself?
ing a brass bell which hung from a ledge.
Monze Lighthouse, inherited the Light-
eyes. Lo and behold — engraved on the
weathered but shiny bell were the letters “Light Ship Sindhi 1916”. I had found her or what remained of her, at last!
The Cape Monze Lighthouse itself has
served for 98 years and its masonry is now
It turns out that the Mercantile Marine
As I came around it, I could not believe my
‘thought’ to have been sent for scrapping.
certificate of vessels in days of yore, still
I ventured to circle around the balcony
and found one of my friends busy clean-
The Maritime Museum of Pakistan did not
Department, which manages the Cape ship. With the construction of various
beacons along the Pakistani coast, the
ageing ship was no longer required and was decommissioned and its staff and
moveable assets were administratively
crumbling at various points, exposing the
spite a hefty fee charged from vessels for usage of navigational infrastructure such
as lighthouses, a meagre maintenance budget is allocated for all the installations dotting the Pakistani coast. This old
faithful structure is too “out of sight” to claim any meaningful share of the meagre maintenance pie. I dread to find, on a future visit, a “shattered visage” lying unceremoniously like Shelley’s Ozymandias, boasting of a glorious past, an apathetic present, and a future that is anything but bright.
MARCH 24-30 2013
39
REVIEW
quest for unity BY KHADIJA RAZA
In Good Faith is Saba Naqvi’s insight into India’s religious diversity. It is a matter-of-fact, hopeful journalistic exploration of the deeper layers of Hindu-Muslim unity that has been a part of India’s history and exists to date. She undertakes this journey as a result of her own identity crisis and her search for a safe India, bringing to light many interesting facts that have been either overlooked or deliberately withheld for political ends. Coming from a mixed Shia-Christian background herself, Saba also brings in her personal experience of belonging to a family that is geographically and culturally divided. Her simple style keeps the reader with her as she walks us past the diverse and multi-cultural fabric of India, from Bengal in the west to Rajasthan in the east, from Tamil Nadu in the south to Kashmir in the north. Not to forget, the state of Maharashtra. The book is like a documentary film that zooms in and out of these pockets and she composes these regions into chapters, making the necessary connections very well. The reader will find details of sufi saints, gurus, devis and devtas, the various places of worship and fusion cultures like that of Bhakti and Sikkhism. The roots of Hindu-Muslim unity go back to Mughal rule in the subcontinent. We are also shown the role of the Marathas (an
jack’s giant adventure BY NOMAN ANSARI
Fee-fi-fo-fum, Jack the Giant Slayer is rather ho-hum! Directed by Bryan Singer, this is a formulaic fantasy film that tries desperately hard to climb the beanstalk to reach the skies of the box-office, but falls somewhat amusingly on its bum. Although the film features swashbuckling adventure, romance, and humour, it sadly suffers from weak characterisation and lack of originality, leading to a rather predictable narrative. The romance is also quite dull, since the two lead characters seem to have very little chemistry. Thankfully, the visuals are presented in some fine 3D shots. The giants are the most entertaining, and are decently crafted with special effects. The film is based on the fairy tales ‘Jack the Giant Killer’ and ‘Jack and the Beanstalk’, where it meshes the two to create one yarn, with some spice on top. The story features a somewhat naïve eighteen-year-old farmer Jack (Nicholas Hoult), who as we all remember from our bedtime stories, comes home with some magic beans, instead of money. But while Jack is out in town, he defends the honour of Princess Isabelle (Eleanor Tomlinson) against some thugs. Then one stormy night, Princess Isabelle rides to the farm boy looking for some adven40 ture, where a very contrived attraction develops between the two. MARCH 24-30 2013
Indian warrior caste) and the Shiv Sena (the Hindu Nationalist Party) in a different light. The narration is spiced by references to Indian films that have dealt with Hindu-Muslim unity. Political and geographical references feature in the background, such as the sundarbans of Bengal, the deserts of Rajasthan and the rugged mountainous terrain of Kashmir, making her composition very vivid and interesting. Though her facts are supported with references, some of them could call for further clarification. For instance, she claims Ashura processions in Moharram began nearly three centuries before the Ganesh and Durga pooja processions, and portrays a softer stance of Shivaji, the founder of the Maratha Empire, towards Muslims, in particular sufi saints. One can easily see the similarities between Pakistan and India in terms of being multi-religious, multi-ethnic and multi-cultural states — one as the alter ego of the other. Though I would hardly classify the book as esoteric, one must indeed be of an open mindset to appreciate the author’s effort.
This flirtation, however, is thankfully cut short when one of the beans erupts into an enormous beanstalk, carrying Isabelle into the realm of the giants. Typical of cookie cutter fantasy films, the princess is a high strung young woman, who is tired of socially defined gender roles, and wants to carve out her own path. Unfortunately for the princess, her marriage has already been arranged by her father, King Brahmwell (Ian McShane), with his adviser Lord Roderick (Stanley Tucci). In what isn’t a giant surprise, Lord Roderick is evil and is plotting to manipulate the giants into handing him all the known kingdoms. As the evil character in the film, Roderick comes complete with his lackey, who tries awfully hard to be amusing but doesn’t quite succeed. Soon a rescue party is formed, which includes the leader of the king’s elite guards. Here, we are introduced to the giants, who are hungry, disgusting, comical, and always in the mood for a good fight. It is just a pity that the giants don’t gobble up all of the film’s very dull human characters.
HEALTHY LIVING
we all scream for sun screen BY NISHA MASROOR
is also important
to mention that in or-
der for the sunscreen to be fully
Too much exposure to the sun breaks down the collagen and elastin in the skin, leading to melanoma, wrinkles, age spots, moles and other complications. It can also lead to an increased risk of skin
effective it should be applied liberally
and thoroughly.
Should sunscreen only be used in summer? Absolutely not! Sunscreen should be used year-round
regardless of the season. Sand, snow and water all reflect
sunlight, so even in their company you are not wholly protect-
cancer and premature aging. Increasingly, people
ed from the sun. Also, UVA rays from the sun penetrate clouds
from the harmful effects of overexposure, but is
cloudy day or indoors if in a room with windows.
are opting to use sunscreen to protect themselves it enough to grab a tube and slather sunscreen on
and glass so sunscreen should be applied when outdoors on a
What brand of sunscreen is the best?
your skin?
Sunscreens come in several brands and forms such as cream,
Here is what you need to know about sunscreens and sun protection:
what works best. More than the brand, it comes down to how
spray, lotion, wax stick and powder. You can experiment and see you are using the product to ensure good sun protection.
What to keep in mind when using sunscreen? Is the best sunscreen the one with the highest SPF?
- apply the sunscreen at least 30 mins before exposure to the sun
SPF stands for sun protection factor and it
neck, ears, arms and legs)
measures how well the sun’s UVB rays can be deflected by the sunscreen. Theoretically, the higher the SPF number, the better the sun-
- apply sunscreen thoroughly to all skin exposed to the sun (face, - reapply sunscreen every two hours or more often if perspiring or swimming
Remember: Don’t go overboard
screen and the better sun protection. Ideally,
Due to the anti-sun paranoia, many forget that sunlight is good
dividual using a sunscreen with an SPF of
in skin complications and even skin cancer but it is also impera-
an SPF of 30 or more should be used. An in30 and applying it thickly and thoroughly
all over is much better protected from the sun than one who only applies a pea-size amount of sunscreen with an SPF of 60. It
for health. It is true that excess exposure to the sun may result tive to keep in mind that lack of sunshine can cause Vitamin D
deficiency. It may result in osteoporosis in adults and rickets in younger children. Regular brain functions without exposure to
the sun may also suffer. So don’t go overboard with your sunscreen. Rather, use it as a means to enjoy your time in the sun.
Some tips for sun protection
Avoid the sun during peak hours (generally 10 am-4 pm) regardless of the season.
Wear protective clothing that can cover the areas sensitive to sun
exposure. A pair of sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat will also help shade one’s face and head from the sun’s UV rays.
42 MARCH 24-30 2013