The Express Tribune Magazine - March 27

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Earth Hour As Pakistan battles enivronmental degradation, there is much that you can do to help

24

Melting Away 48

Leaving Las Vegas 54

THE HATER

REVIEWS

PORTFOLIO

PEOPLE

HOROSCOPE

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Cover Story 24 Vicious Circle In Keti Bandar, when the land suffers, the people suffer with it 32 A Mixed Bag Switching to biodegradable packaging isn’t easy — or is it?

36 Back To the Basics Our forefathers did it and so can we 38 Getting Down And Dirty Put down the remote control and discover your green thumb 40 Beyond The Hour Celebrities talk about adopting eco-friendly practices

42

Portfolio 42 Call Of The Wild A wildlife photographer captures nature’s majestic beauty

Travel

24

48 Melting Away Switzerland’s icy peaks could soon fall prey to global warming

Positive Pakistanis 52 As Good As It Gets A determined couple change people’s lives for the better

Washington Diary 54 Leaving Las Vegas Only the truly reckless would bet against this city’s revival

Regulars 6 People & Parties: Out and about with Pakistan’s beautiful people 22 Tribune Questionnaire: Meesha Shafi on motherhood 58 Reviews: What’s new in film and books 62 Horoscope: Shelley von Strunckel on your week ahead 64 Ten Things I Hate About: Dieting

22

4

Editor: Zarrar Khuhro. Sub-Editors: Batool Zehra, Hamna Zubair Creative Team: Amna Iqbal, Jamal Khurshid, Essa Malik, Anam Haleem, Tariq Alvi, S Asif Ali, Samad Siddiqui, Sukayna Sadik Publisher: Bilal A Lakhani. Executive Editor: Muhammad Ziauddin. Editor: Kamal Siddiqi.

For feedback and submissions: magazine@tribune.com.pk

PEOPLE & PARTIES

The 3rd LadiesFund Women’s Awards at Mohatta Palace Museum, Karachi

ltana, ain, Shafqat Su Dr Ishrat Huss Ghulam Ali ita An d an ui Sultana Siddiq

Amena Sayed and Naseem Hameed

Humaira Saleem and Ayesha Jafar

Bina Shah

6 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Asher Hasan

Nabila Maqsood and Atiqa Merchant

PEOPLE & PARTIES

Fethi Turkish Consul General Onal u Arz ce fian his Etem and

Nazli Majeed

Shazia Naz and TU Dawood

Nilofer Saeed Tina Ahmed and Jeannette Faruque

8 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Rukaiya Adamjee and TU Dawood

PEOPLE & PARTIES

Farhat Osman, Shelley Pirzada and Saba Khan

Kamila Habib and Tanya Ashfaque

Arshia Khursheed

Hamida Dawood Asher Hasan and the Naya Jeevan Team

10 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Fariha Akhtar TU Dawood and Jahan Ara

PEOPLE & PARTIES

Collectables Gala Night celebrated in Karachi

Aisha, Intesar

and Mustafa

Amer and Fiona

Sharmila Farooqui

Aziz Memon

12 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Neelo Pirzada

Bina, Shehzi and Naz

PEOPLE & PARTIES

Imran and Farishte Aslam

Iman Ali and Waseem Akram

Essa and Saima

Fariha Razzak Haroon Bina and Amer Khan Umer and Zaitoon

14 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

PEOPLE & PARTIES

Sana Safinaz lawn launched in Karachi

reen

dia, Fozia, Meh

Faiza, Neha, Na

Zuvair Hashwani Sasha Muneer

Uzma Jamil Baig

with Sana Hashwani d ee Sa Mohsin

16 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

i

Deepak Parvan

Mehreen, Neha, and Nadia Ali

PEOPLE & PARTIES

Rukayia, Faiza, Deepak, Muniba and Mehreen

Maham and Maliha with Raheela

Adnan Pardesi

Fozia Neha Safinaz Muneer, Arif Hashwani and Bilal Muneer

18 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

“I would’ve loved to be a few inches taller” L’Oreal Pakistan Spokesperson and singer Meesha Shafi on motherhood and ambition.

What is your idea of perfect happiness?

I must be truly blessed, because I think the answer to that would be the life I have at present. Wonderful friends, professional recognition and success, a loving husband, a family that supports

me and is very dear to me, both mine and the one I’m married

into and last but not least, the exciting prospect of motherhood right around the corner.

What is your greatest fear?

Having to live without my loved ones.

What is the trait you most deplore in yourself?

I find it difficult to forgive people who hurt or harm me or those close to me. For my own sake, I would like to overcome this.

What is the trait you most deplore in others?

delicate balance, especially in our country where independence really is a luxury for most women, and those who enjoy it are often irresponsible with it.

When and where were you happiest?

My wedding. Everything was perfect.

If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be?

I would love to have better control over my spending.

What do you consider your greatest achievement?

The slightest contribution that I might have made towards projecting a positive image of Pakistan through my singing and

songwriting. Mainly after Coke Studio and my association with L’Oréal Paris as a spokesperson.

I can’t stand insecure people who as a result are rude to others.

Where would you most like to live?

What is your greatest extravagance?

but I hope peace and prosperity prevail for Pakistan because I

Vacations and our two Great Danes.

I’ve seen some great countries and plan to visit countless more, always want to call my beautiful hometown of Lahore home.

What is your current state of mind?

What do you regard as the lowest depth of misery?

Extremely wired and restless to get back to work, but at the same

I’ve seen people consumed by their own bitterness, resulting in

What do you consider the most overrated virtue?

If you didn’t do your current job, what would you choose to do?

Diplomacy.

Easy — I would paint. In fact I plan to do just that when I retire.

On what occasion do you lie?

Who are your heroes in real life?

To avoid making a bigger mess of a situation, but rarely.

Imran Khan. Edhi. Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan.

time, very anxious to hold my baby for the first time.

their being alone and angry. Nothing, to me, is more miserable.

What do you most dislike about your appearance?

What is your greatest regret?

I would’ve loved to be a few inches taller. But I’m very grateful for

The work I did as a newcomer without paperwork and contracts.

all that God has given me.

What is the quality you most like in a man?

A man who is secure enough to truly consider a woman his equal

What kind of super powers would you like to have?

I would love to be invisible at will. And super fast, like the Flash.

and open minded and generous with his support. Such a man is

If you had a time machine, where would you go?

difficult to find and I consider myself very lucky.

Back to college. Four years of the best times.

What is the quality you most like in a woman?

What’s the one thing you wish someone would invent?

I greatly respect women who balance the luxury of being in-

A fork that also cuts like a knife from one side. A Kfife, or a Knork

dependent with being morally sound and dignified. It’s a

if you will. a

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

23

COVER STORY

earth hour MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

On Saturday 26th March 2011 at exactly 8:30 pm, a rolling wave of darkness swept over the world. Towns, cities and even entire countries switched off their lights for an entire hour in a synchronized global event. It wasn’t a precursor to the end of the world, but rather an attempt to save the world. This was Earth Hour, a grassroots initiative that aims at making a statement about climate change. Pakistan is one of the many countries that will bear the brunt of changing climatic patterns and while global warming may be something we cannot control, we can and must prevent the environmental degradation we ourselves cause through our actions and our inaction. It’s no longer a question of adopting fashionable ‘green’ causes… it’s quite simply a matter of survival.

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

COVER STORY

vicious

circle Some of us feel that environmental degradation has no effect on the lives of ordinary Pakistanis, most of whom are concerned with day to day survival. But a visit to Keti Bandar shows that the ecology is inextricably linked to the local economy.

BY MOIGN KHWAJA

In your kitchen MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

- Keep your fridge at the optimum temperature of around 3°C to 5°C. This minimizes excess electricity consumption.

- Load and unload your fridge as quickly as possible and don’t leave the fridge door open longer than you need to.

- Frequently clean the condenser coils at the back of the fridge — dust on the condenser coils increases energy consumption.

The past is another country Hardly a hundred years ago, Keti Bandar was known for its abundance of red rice, fish, bananas, timber and livestock. Today, it is a dilapidated town, a shadow of its past glory. “There was a time when the people of Keti Bandar were so affluent that they had investments in Karachi and used to loan money to traders there,” says the taxi driver who drives me to Gadho, a town 50 kilometres

“The Palla is the king of all fish in the River Indus. It is mighty, brave and lives a vigorous life. It swims upstream for hundreds of miles to breed and returns to the sea with its offspring. This is the blessing of Saint Khawaja Khizr, famously known as Jhanda Pir, who blesses the fish during their visit to his shrine in Rohri, northern Sindh. This fish is not just a fish for us... it is a legend.” Local Sindhi folklore.

A four-hour journey from Karachi on broken roads brought me to the heart of the Indus Delta — the fifth-largest delta system in

away from Keti Bandar.

Near Gadho, I get the opportunity to participate in a WWFsponsored local festival, which kicks off with a display of malakhra — a form of wrestling where a participant tries to throw his opponent on the ground by tightly gripping his loincloth. According to Ghulam Rasool Khatri, who manages the WWF Indus Delta camp office, the festival “is a highlight for people living in the area.” It starts with the Urs of Bukhari Shah, a local saint, includes folk singing, Sufi poetry, malakhra, and concludes with a mass banquet.

the world — home to an extensive network of creeks, estuaries,

The wrestlers participating in the event are mostly men from

marshes, mudflats, swamps and mangroves forests. Lately, this

the local fisherfolk community, who pursue wrestling as a hob-

environmental resource has fallen prey to overfishing, opportun-

by. The festival comes to a close at sunset and the crowd of over

ism and neglect. Though some organisations like the WWF have

600 people disperses after an eventful day. Khatri is happy with

made strides in the delta, the fate of this delicate ecosystem is

the turn out and emphasises how these events help increase

anything but assured, endangering the lives and livihoods of the

awareness about WWF-run projects.

villagers who call it home. As I based myself in the World Wild-

However, despite last night’s jovial atmosphere, all is not well

life Fund’s office in Samoo Goth, a village near the once prosper-

in Keti Bandar when we arrive in town the next day. My hosts

ous port city of Keti Bandar, I was prepared to investigate how far

Umair Shahid and Nadeem Sheikh tell me that Keti Bandar’s res-

sustainable, eco-friendly policies for economic and social uplift

idents have had to move three times in the last 20 years because

could go in benefiting this area.

of rising sea levels. “Keti Bandar was deep inland before and the sea was further down south. Today, the sea is almost upon us, trying to gulp up this huge swathe of land,” says Umair, a natural resource management officer.

Keti Bandar’s former rice market, which used to bustle with rice traders and buyers coming from places as far as Karachi and Bombay, lies deserted. We set out for the nearby island settlement of Kharioun by boat, and my hosts tell me that the Indus

- Don’t put hot food in a fridge or a freezer — it makes the fridge work extra hard in attempt to keep it cold.

- When washing dishes by hand, don’t let the water run while rinsing. Fill one sink with wash water and the other with rinse water.

- Designate one glass for your drinking water each day or refill a water bottle. This will cut down on the number of glasses to wash.

- Never pour used water down the drain when there may be another use for it, such as watering a plant or garden, or for cleaning.

- Do not use running water to thaw meat or other frozen foods. Defrost food overnight in the refrigerator or use the defrost setting on your microwave.

- When boiling vegetables use just enough water to keep them covered.

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

COVER STORY River has changed its course many times, creating a unique network of more than a dozen major creeks and scores of minor ones, before flowing into the Arabian Sea. The delta, which has long been deprived of fertile sediment usually deposited by flooding, was revived last year by the unprecedented flooding in Pakistan. Though it devastated man-made settlements, the flood also replenished the water table and breathed new life into the region’s fragile eco-system.

“Our miseries are as deep as the ocean,” says Ghulam Dablo, headman of the Kharioun village, as people gather in his house to meet our team. Kharioun is located in the Hajamro Creek and it takes 15 minutes by boat to reach this island from Keti Bandar.

Hardly a metre above sea level, this village of 35 households is rife with poverty and socio-economic problems. The entire population relies solely on fishing for sustenance and is plagued with loans that have astronomical interest rates. Children inherit debt from their parents and the vicious cycle of poverty repeats itself endlessly. This is mostly because of middlemen and loan sharks, to whom fishermen owe thousands of rupees. The village head himself owes more than Rs600,000 to middlemen based in Keti Bandar. According to Nadeem Sheikh, the middlemen buy the catch from poor fishermen at ridiculously low prices and sell the fish to traders in Karachi and other cities for a profit of about 200-500 per cent. “These poor fishermen owe the middlemen a lot of money, so they have no choice but to sell their catch to these people. If they don’t, the middlemen will seize their boats and fishing nets,” says Sheikh who himself hails from a fishing community.

The villagers also complain of rocketing fuel prices that have a direct impact on their livelihoods. They mock politicians for not taking care of them once they get their votes. “The government is literally pushing us into the sea. Loan sharks visit us every single day while the politicians come to us once in five years to beg for our votes,” says a frustrated fisherman.

The situation only gets worse when a storm or cytclone hits the area. “Our thatched roofs are blown away and our belongings get strewn in the water,” says Ghulam Dhabo as he lashes out at relief and rescue operations. “We receive little or no aid and are literally on the streets when we are evacuated from our village.”

Villagers appeal for a permanent shelter that can shield them

at the water’s mercy

from extreme weather and consequent destruction every year,

Every time the mighty Indus changes its course, fisherman and residents of the Indus Delta have to alter their lives accordingly.

but to no avail.

Though the village benefits from a WWF project that provides electricity generated by solar panels and wind turbines to the 35 households, the absence of a school and a dispensary decimates the chance of a real change in their lives. Children in the village grow up illiterate and are not able to break the vicious cycle of poverty, ignorance and exploitation.

28 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Downstream blues At a nearby creek, a mangrove plantation project is in full swing, headed by Mohammed Ayub, an award-winning conservationist and mangrove expert. Historically, an area of 1,600 square kilometres in the Indus Delta was covered with mangroves. The mangroves provided shelter to a variety of marine life including fish, shrimps, crabs and migratory birds. The tropical tree not only protects the coastline from erosion, it also acts as a natural physical barrier to cyclones. Now, however, a shortage of fresh water, pollution and over-grazing by cattle is rapidly reducing the size of the forest.

It is a common misconception that fresh water flowing from the Indus River is a massive waste of a resource and should be utilised somehow. But the fact is that the stoppage of fresh water in the Indus delta, thanks to the construction of major dams and irrigation canals built in Punjab and northern Sindh, has practically lead to the destruction of the delta’s fragile eco-system. According to various reports published by the water and irrigation authorities, the water that flows into the delta today is almost one tenth of what it used to be in 1947, when the mighty Indus unleashed a heavy flow of around 80 million acre feet (Maf) into the ocean.

According to Umair Shahid, a graduate of Marine Sciences from the University of Karachi, reduced flow of freshwater from the Indus has resulted in the near extinction of several fish and marine species, migration of birds and wildlife, and the breakdown of the delta’s unique eco-system, along with a severe impact on human settlements.

Simple solutions Nadeem Sheikh proposes a solution to the community’s problems. “It would really help if a fishery with a cold storage facility is opened in Keti Bandar. The fishermen could then store their catch and sell it directly to traders who give them their asking price,” suggests the political science graduate-turned-socio-environmental activist. “They do not get a good price for their catch thanks to the exploitation of the middle men. My proposal will give them a better alternative as all they’ll have to do is to come from the sea with all their catch and sell it at market rates.”

In contrast to the Dablos in Kharioun, their clansmen in Meeru Dablo village in Keti Bandar are altogether a different lot. They’re literate and are getting involved in crab farming and prawn cultivation. The credit for the change in fortune goes to Saleem Dablo, a charismatic 27-year-old who has taken it upon himself to bring about a change in the community.

Despite the fact that he also owes Rs100,000 to a middleman, the talented entrepreneur is determined to turn the tide. “My sister helped me read The Holy Quran and taught me how to write,” Saleem Dablo says with a bright smile on his face. “I’m also the

29 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

COVER STORY

pioneer of crab farming in the area and I want to see this project succeed.”

Young Dablo shows me the crab farms where he also intends to harvest prawns and other seafood. Just four months into the crab farming project, and he’s pleased with the progress so far. But

fading away

he is quick to point out the difficulties the community still faces.

Members of the fishing community in Keti Bandar gather around for a photograph.

This once-bustling city is now slowly emptying out, a victim of neglect and environmental decay.

“The scarcity of fresh water and the blatant use of illegal nets has a terrible impact on the lives of fishermen in the region,” he says, adding that illegal nets have enabled hundreds of fishermen to eat well and have some extra money in their pockets. But this fine net catches hatchlings and newborn fish, which will ultimately lead to a reduction in catch. They are trading short-term gain for long-term disaster.

“It is a big dilemma for us. We suffer from over-fishing as a result of using this net. However, we’re forced to do so as the shortage of fresh water has created a scarcity of big fish,” says Saleem Dablo.

Abdullah Dablo, the 45-year-old village chief, says he’s inspired by the young man and wants to educate himself and the rest of the villagers. The inhabitants of Meeru Dablo have sought help from local NGOs to build a small mosque and install a solar power panel that will generate energy for the village of 50 people.

The other side of the story Last year’s Cyclone Phet wreaked havoc on people living in the Indus Delta’s creeks, severely damaging their houses and boats.

With no place to live and no means to earn a living, the government declared that it would give every affected household a grant of Rs120,000, under the Watan Card scheme, to rebuild their lives. The plan seemed generous at the time, but the execution is anything but a success.

The fishermen speak about the corruption committed by local feudal lords in connivance with governmental relief officers.

30 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

“The facilitators, often landlords or influential people, demand 50 per cent of our aid money,” a village elder tells me on condition of anonymity as he feared a backlash from the authorities.

“We were bound to receive Rs20,000 but they pocketed half of the amount. This is what they do each time we receive an installment. If we don’t comply with their demands, we risk losing the money altogether.”

A quick trip to a middleman in Keti Bandar reveals that the grass is no greener on the other side. Babu Khan, a 39-year-old financer and fish trader insists he owes Rs2,500,000 to companies and big traders who buy fish from him. “I’ve been in this business for the last 16 years and earn around 30,000-40,000 every month but it’s hard to keep my business running. I want to sell off my business and leave this place,” he says. He too laments that 75 per cent of the stock of fish has disappeared because of over-fishing and illegal nets.

Bystanders outside Babu Khan’s home, wait for me to emerge.

“How can we make ends meet when a litre of petrol costs Rs108 (Rs75 in Karachi), a 1kg bag of flour costs Rs40, and a kilogram of rice at least Rs80?” they ask me. “It is getting too much now. It is killing us.”

On my final day in the region, I buy some fish (not Palla, though) thanks to arrangements made by the guys at WWF.

A quick trip to a middleman in Keti Bandar reveals that the grass is no greener on the other side.

Babu Khan, a 39-year-old financer and fish trader insists he owes Rs2,500,000 to companies and big traders who buy fish from him.

Umair Shahid extolled the virtues of Palla, praising its colour and size as well as its exquisite taste. “The Palla swims against the tide which makes it sturdy as well as tasty,” he reminds me.

This fish’s struggle mirrors the hardships people in the Indus Delta have to face on a daily basis, struggling against ecological problems and man-made difficulties.

Living in the cities, we sometimes fall prey to the delusion that environmental concerns have no real bearing on our lives. Some even feel that espousing ‘green’ causes is the domain of the elite, and of no concern to the masses of Pakistan. But here in Keti Bandar, the reality is painfully clear: these people are one with the land, and the land is one with them. So long as the land suffers, the people cannot prosper. a

In your car

- Clean your car’s air filter. A clean air filter can improve your gas mileage by up to seven per cent, saving you more than Rs8,800 for every 10,000 miles you drive in an average vehicle.

Plus, cleaning your air filter is easy to do in just a few minutes — just follow the instructions in your automobile’s manual and you’re good to go.

- Carpo Carpool/ Public Transport. Try to carpool or use public transport whenever possible to benefit in terms of monetary savings and reduce environmental damage from vehicle emissions.

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

COVER STORY One such procedure works by combining bio-degradable substances with plastic used to manufacture carrier bags during their production process. “The additive comes in the form of granules or pellets and these are used as fillers during the extrusion process,” explains Imran Rehman, Director of the K-group of Companies and self-styled champion of biodegradable plastics in Pakistan. “Inserting these pellets into the plastic can make polythene bags, plastic bottles, caps and similar materials completely biodegradable; not just in the open air and in landfills but even in water,” says Rehman. He also adds that more than 50 countries have already replaced conventional carrier bags with these “greener” alternatives.

a mixed bag Paper or plastic? New eco-friendly packaging means you wouldn’t have to choose, but Pakistani producers aren’t keen to go green.

BY MOBIN NASIR

For now this company is targeting big retail chains and the

Pakistan’s biggest companies, like fertilizer giants and multi-nationals, rake up billions of rupees in profits every year. What else do they have in common? Practically none of these companies have taken steps to make their product packaging environment friendly.

Environmentally friendly solutions for product packaging

manufacturers of high-end products in an attempt to persuade them to become early adopters of environmentally friendly alternatives to plastic bags. “In a country of 180 million, where the average person consumes more than two kilograms of plastic bags in a year, it makes so much sense to limit the pollution caused by these bags,” says Rehman.

are often thought to be too expensive and technologically com-

This technology was being use by businessman Omair Jaleel

plex. But this belief that eco-friendly alternatives are too costly

for some time. Jaleel owns a company that makes plastic bags,

couldn’t be further from the truth. Thanks to some enterprising

and operates its plant close to Karachi’s Port Qasim. “If a regular

efforts, the technology that will allow companies to turn plas-

carrier bag costs 10 paisas to make, a biodegradable bag which

tics, the major component of most manufactured consumer

will decompose within a few years will not cost more than 12 pai-

goods and their packages, into biodegradable material is readily

sas,” says Jaleel. He says that by replacing less than three per cent

available in Pakistan.

of the contents of polythene bags with oxo-decomposable additives, “the time that these plastic bags take to completely decay can be drastically reduced whether the bags are left lying in the open air, or dumped in water”. Supporters of this technology also say that tests conducted by America’s Food and Drug Association show that the additive is safe to use with edible products and that it prevents the formation of heavy metals which can affect the land’s fertility.

However, despite having used this technology for some time, Jaleel has now given up the practice. “What happened was that

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

In your bathroom other manufacturers also started printing words like ‘biodegradable’ on their carrier bags even though none of them were using any eco-friendly materials,” he claims. The business owner believes part of the problem is a lack of government regulation, something that could conceivably persuade producers to adopt greener practices.

Pakistan’s polythene scene is dominated by a handful of importers, who feed thousands of small industries that process plastic into carrier bags. “The existing lobby staunchly opposes any proposals to mandate environmentally friendly changes to their craft,” says environmental legal expert Ahmed Rafay Alam.

Alam explains: “No one wants to incur higher costs by making products like carrier bags environmentally friendly unless they are forced to do so by law. However, the law is not driving manufacturers in that direction so far”. Alam highlights how, when the Lahore High Court recently took suo moto notice of pollution caused by plastic carrier bags, the government of Punjab itself stepped in to present arguments in favour of maintaining the

- Make sure your taps are fully turned off after use. This will help save both water and gas.

- Fully load your washing machine — A full load uses less water than two half loads.

- Fix leaking taps — A dripping tap can waste 140 litres of water per week.

- Shorten your shower by a minute or two and you’ll save up to 150 gallons per month.

- Turn off the water while you wash your hair to save up to 150 gallons a month.

status quo.

Meanwhile, the company that pioneered this low-cost solution in Pakistan insists there could still be a way to entice local manufacturers to adopt this eco-friendly alternative. “These additives can be used in the existing process of manufacturing... no one has to change the machinery or materials they use to make carrier bags to adopt it,” says Rehman. The company is now lobbying to get the government to help reduce the overall cost of manufacturing carrier bags so that the additional expense of biodegradable materials does not deter makers or buyers.

Still, local manufacturers remain unconvinced for the time being. Environmentalists believe that public interest is the missing link — that is, if pubic interest is aroused local businesses will be compelled to adopt more environment-friendly solutions for their products. “Actually it is the consumers that are unconcerned,” asserts Alam. “If people start taking more interest in eco-friendly packaging, their representatives in parliament will

- Turn off the water while you shave and save up to 300 gallons a month.

- When you are washing your hands, don’t let the water run while you lather.

- Turn off the water while brushing your teeth and you can save up to 25 gallons a month.

- Collect running water while you are waiting for hot water and use it to water plants or for other domestic purposes.

- Washing dark clothes in cold water saves both on water and energy and helps your clothes keep their colors.

start enacting laws and regulations to mandate the use of such technologies,” he says.

In 2003 General Electric, one of the world’s leading electronics manufacturers, decided to shed its classic slogan “We bring good things to life” in favour of “Ecomagination”. When asked why the company chose to drop a slogan that had become world famous over a quarter of a century, GE chief executive Jeffrey Immelt replied, “Green is green”. The visionary leader of the company that was founded by Thomas Edison was referring to the colour of US dollars, to highlight that the future profitability and sustainability of businesses is in environmentally conscious production processes and products. It remains to be seen whether Pakistani producers and lawmakers will see the light soon too. a

33 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

COVER STORY

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

COVER STORY

back to the basics

We all know that much of the food we eat is adulterated and contaminated, but are we also aware of the organic alternatives out there?

BY THE GREEN FLAG WAVER

Organic food is becoming popular in Pakistan. This isn’t just a fad, but rather a realisation that getting closer to nature is in our interest. Increased awareness about impurities in the food we eat on a daily basis means that people are consciously switching to healthier options... or are trying to at least.

Organic food is chemical-free. It isn’t grown from ge netically-modified seeds (that cannot reproduce), nor is it drenched in chemical fertilisers and pesticides.

Consuming organic food protects us from the array of diseases and health conditions that are caused by eating contaminated food... and that accounts for much of what we eat.

For Pakistanis, opting for organic food doesn’t mean that we are simply being fashionable or following Western fads; it mean that we’re going back to the basics. Organic food is not a new concept for us. Our forefathers were all organic farmers, using natural fertilisers and natural methods of pest control. In modern times, organic farming entails the use of organically approved pesticides and fertilizers to maintain soil productivity and to control pests. Organic farmers employ methods like crop rotation, green manuring, and use compost that is made by the farmers themselves.

But as in so many cases, we have lost touch with our own traditions, while the Western world adopts them wholeheartedly. Organic food and healthy living are the new buzzwords, with Hollywood stars Angelina Jolie, Julia Roberts and Gwyneth Paltrow leading the charge. Even Prince Charles is a staunch organic food activist. Shops and restaurants specialising in organic food are all the rage worldwide.

Luckily, we haven’t missed the boat on this one! There are people working to bring organic food to our tables as well, people like Mariam Ibrar of Daali Earth food. Daali’s organic products are available at various departmental stores in Lahore, Karachi, Islamabad and Faislabad. Mariam Ibrar, the person behind it, took the initiative four years ago when she vowed that she would no longer feed her children with preservative-ridden cereals and

36

adulterated food.

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

“Growing organic food is knowledge-intensive and it will take farmers a lot of time to adapt into this type of farming.”

Following in her green footsteps, two of her friends came up with their own brands to help promote the idea of adapting to healthier food. Nilofer Saeed set the trend in the restaurant industry by offering dishes with purely organic ingredients in Neco’s Café and also by setting up the Natural store in Karachi.

For those looking for healthy restaurant dining, this café offers an organic menu with hormone-free ‘desi’ eggs, pure wheat and olive oil.

Sungold Organics is another label that ensures the provision of chemical-free and naturally grown vegetables. They produce their own natural fertilizer and have a long list of vegetables like eggplant and broccoli that are in any case hard to find at your local sabzi-walla... and they even deliver to your doorstep! Many of us are familiar with Zoya Aliem Khan’s herbal beauty products, which are available across Pakistan, but in recent years she has also started stocking healthy food in some larger stores in Lahore.

Even foreigners are pitching in. Alexander Kuhne came all the way from Germany with a mission to conserve nature and promote natural living, under the aegis of the Roshni Association. This organisation, which aims to help special children, also has gardens where organic food is grown for the staff and residents. The surplus eggs, vegetables and fruits are stocked at the local store Panjeeri in Lahore’s mini market.

So organic food is now increasingly available... but is it affordable?

“This is the main problem,” admits Marium Ibrar. “We as individuals cannot grow on a large scale. If we think about it seriously it is possible for a country like Pakistan to emerge as a major grower and exporter of organic food.”

Alexander Kuhne holds out hope for the future, saying: “The system will transform gradually. Growing organic food is knowledge-intensive and it will take farmers a lot of time to adapt to this type of farming. We also have to take into consideration that we live in a capitalist economy where profits are always the first priority.”

If premium prices are a problem, then growing your own food is a good option. Even if you only have a small patch of land, this enables you to both have a healthy relationship with nature as well as produce food. Just ask any good gardeners to examine the suitability of the land and get started. Compost can also be made at home by utilising garden and kitchen waste material. There are various other options that you can learn and explore.

Take an interest in the food that you put on your plate because, after all, you are what you eat. a

37 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

getting down

and dirty A school in Karachi teaches students to grow food the green way.

BY MAHNOOR SHERAZEE

When was the last time you got down and dirty, snuggled with nature and soothed your mind with a hoe, some seeds and fertile soil?

If you haven’t yet perhaps now is a now good time to get close to nature, literally. Organic farming is picking up credence and interest among the young and the old in Pakistan. In layman’s terms organic farming is simply growing plants without the support of pesticides and chemicals, like we used to 50 years ago.

Environmentalist Tofiq Pasha Mooraj explains the importance and process of this age old gardening and farming technique.

A process known as “nitrogen fixation” plays a key role in ensuring the soil is rich enough to sufficiently provide the plant all the minerals aka food it requires. The nitrogen fix can be achieved by mixing gobar khad (cow dung), poultry dropping and also a green option known as ‘jantar’ (fodder crop.)

Enriching the soil wins more than half the battle for the farmer. All the farmer must worry about next is keeping a close eye on the plant to ensure it does not get infected by removing unwanted weeds and immediately removing any damaged leaves and stems before it spreads.

Of course plants today are much more susceptible to pesticides as their strain gets potent each year round. But pumping crops with chemicals can both be hazardous to health and is not the only solution for farmers, even those who only plant in their backyards.

Wanting a purely “for fun and learning experience” for its students, Dawood Public School (DPS) in Karachi began gardening as an extracurricular activity nearly two years ago. Aiming to get the children away from their television sets and gaming consoles, gardening at DPS is not limited to planting and growMARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

In your living space

ing fruits and vegetables but learning about their nutritional value as well.

However, the initiative was met with a great deal of resistance on its onset. “Initially parents were very sceptical and resistant regarding the need for the activity, while some even saw it as a

- Use fans during the summer to create a wind chill effect that will make your home more comfortable. If you use air conditioning, a ceiling fan will allow you to raise the thermostat setting about 4°F with no reduction in comfort.

- When using an AC maintain a temperature of 78ºF (26ºC). For every degree you lower the temperature, your energy costs rise by 6 per cent. A temperature setting of 75ºF (24ºC) costs 18 per cent more; a 72ºF (22ºC) setting costs 36 per cent more.

waste of time. So starting such a project was risky,” says gardening teacher at DPS Sadia Siddiqui. Another point of contention was the one-time cost of the pot. “While the school provided the

>> What the kids are growing:

soil and seeds each child needed to buy their own pot, which

January to February: This is the time for propagation. This is the process of increasing the number of plants by cutting leaf stems, roots and shoots and replanting them.

“touch the soil and get their hands dirty.” There was a lot of yuck

costs approximately Rs25,” she explains.

Some students also joined the resistance and were unwilling to and bluck, she sighed.

But according to Siddiqui, the one-time cost of the pot and the students dislike for soil was overcome and this year the teacher is ripe with stories of how her students have started planting at home. “Many children have also made this a regular feature with their grandparents,” she says, brimming with excitement.

A student of Grade VIII Areeba Tariq says she feels “extremely close to nature while gardening.” With a small garden at home

- Be diligent about turning off lights before you leave. If you spend one minute turning off lights before a two hour trip, that’s the equivalent of saving approximately Rs4,000 an hour.

- Install CFL (compact fluorescent lamps/ energy savers) or LED bulbs. These bulbs cost more initially, but have a longer life than normal incandescent bulbs and both eat far less electricity. CFLs use about 25 per cent of the electricity of an incandescent bulb — LEDs use about 2 per cent.

March to April: Gourds [cucumber, bitter gourd, bottle gourd and okra] are planted.

Presently, students are in the process of planting and growing gourds, lemongrass, sunflowers, white eggplant and rocket.

now Areeba says the activity gives her peace while relaxing her mind from the “stresses of being a 14-year-old,” she says dramatically. In her garden at home, which she jointly looks after with her siblings and cousins, Areeba has planted ferns, roses, tomatoes and chillies. She talks of her achievements proudly, not forgetting to mention how she commands her siblings on how to properly garden since her school is the only one with the subject.

Gardening classes at DPS are divided into two groups. The primary group is from Grade I to V and the secondary group from Grade VI to VIII. Each group gardens two weeks out of the month alternating with two weeks in the food and nutrition laboratory.

June to July: This is the season to prepare for vegetables such as tomatoes and chillies.

It’s also a good time to plant sunflowers.

As this is 13-year-old Sama Fatima’s last year of gardening as an activity in school she promises to keep her efforts up with her “mini farm” at home. “I really did not care much for gardening before but over time I developed a very keen interest in it,” she says. Now Sama can only hold back for so long before she needs to have her fingers running through the soil and plants her next batch of fruits, flowers and vegetables. “Before, my father would

- Use roof insulation. This can help cut down on cooling costs in the summers because it reduces heat absorption.

- Shut computers off at night, particularly in workplaces. A computer or printer can use over 100 watts of power. When replacing computers, purchase new energy-efficient models that use less energy.

October to November: When the sun’s intensity is reduced, the time is ripe to plant mustard, peas, coriander, mint and garlic.<<

ask me why I spent so much time gardening and said perhaps I could better utilise my energy elsewhere. Now when he sees the calming and responsible effect it has had on me he started encouraging it. So far I have planted tomatoes, roses, sunflowers, custard apple and mangoes,” she proudly says.a

39 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

COVER STORY

beyond the hour Everybody can go green â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and celebrities are leading the way. A few stars share their plans to live eco-friendly lives.

40 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Wasim Akram Atiqa Odho ‘I will go Beyond the Hour by not using plastic bags and replac-

This year for Earth Hour I will go Beyond the Hour by switching

ing them with alternatives. I will recycle, reuse and reduce.

off unnecessary lights and appliances. I believe that nowhere

This is particularly important because plastic bags are a cause of

in our country’s 63-year history has Pakistan’s growing depen-

significant damage to the health of the environment. In my ca-

dence on secure sources of electrical energy been more evident

pacity I will promote and encourage the same behavior through-

than during the current nation-wide electricity deficit. Load-

out Pakistan and the rest of the World.”

shedding has, for the time being, become an irritating necessity. It is, however, also a constant reminder of our society’s need to use our God-given energy resources more conservatively and wisely in the face of global energy uncertainties. We can individually and collectively conserve what energy we have by exercising control over our energy use patterns.

Reema Khan I will go Beyond the Hour by reducing my paper use and will recycle, reuse and reduce. . In my capacity I will promote the message and will encourage the same behavior throughout Pakistan and the rest of the World”. I believe Earth Hour is about empowering the individual with a sense of being part of something great, a platform to show what you are doing and

Vaneeza Ahmed This year for Earth Hour I will go Beyond the Hour by putting

announce what you are going to do to combat climate change, a

the water tap off while washing my hands and brushing my

chance to promote leadership — an opportunity for individuals,

teeth. I believe that this God-given bounty of natural resources

businesses, community groups and governments to showcase climate solutions.

has served our people well in the past but, in recent decades, the quality and quantity of our renewable natural resources have begun to diminish. I am making a commitment to reduce my water foot print. a

41 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

PORTFOLIO

call of the wild

BY GHULAM RASOOL

Sunrise at Taunsa.

42 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

For a country so blessed with wildlife and natural beauty, there is a distinct lack of people in Pakistan who can document this wild tapestry with their camera lens. Ghulam Rasool is one such person. Affiliated with the WWF for the last 6 years, Rasool has travelled from the wetlands of the Makran Coast to the icy alpine lakes of the Hindukush.

A flock of Bar Headed Geese.

A Bar Headed Goose.

A Chaukar.

43 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

PORTFOLIO

A view of Naltar Lake.

44 Nanga Parbat and Sheosar Lake, Deosai.

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Getidas Lake at Babusar Pass.

White winged redstart

45 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

PORTFOLIO

A Dalmatian Pelican.

Marsh Harrier, Langh lake, Sindh.

46 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

A common Rosefinch.

A view of Dudipatsar Lake.

A panroma of Shandoor in the morning.

47 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

TRAVEL

melting away TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY SAIFUDDIN ISMAILJI

A visit to Switzerland’s peaks reveals that one of nature’s wonders is endangered by global warming.

Inconvenient or not, it is true that the world gets hotter with every passing year. The North Pole is melting so fast that, according to environmentalists, it may no longer exist by 2050.

The Antarctic Western Tip is releasing ice much faster than it can replenish it.

In Greenland, Alaska and Siberia, permafrost is melting at an alarming rate, transforming once-frozen soil into wetlands. And vanishing glaciers are stripping snow caps on the mountain tops.

These overhead water tanks of nature discharge water into the sea at such an alarming rate that some islands in the Maldives may be submerged 50 years from now, and in many countries once fertile lands are turning into deserts.

Dr Viner from the Climatic Research Unit at the University of East Anglia points out that nine of the 10 warmest years on record occurred in the last decade and the 2003 July-August heat wave caused over 25,000 deaths in Europe alone, according to the World Health Organisation (WHO). In the same year the world was shocked to hear that a huge chunk of ‘eternal’ ice had broken off Switzerland’s iconic Mount Matterhorn. The cause: excessive heat surrounding the mountain’s external wall.

Mountainous Switzerland has been experiencing phenomenally hot weather since 2003. The Alpine area as a whole receives 100 million visitors every year. According to a case study, “The trend for shorter, more frequent holiday breaks has enabled a greater use of ski areas than ever before. The pressure of human activities, as well as the effects of climate change and global warming on the physi-

48

cal landscape will inevitably affect the environment. The Alpine MARCH 27- APRIL 2 2011

The iceless walls of Matterhorn Gornergrat.

region needs to utilise sustainable development strategies in order to control the impact on its environment”. Local environmentalists

The Green Zone in Zermatt.

are concerned that Switzerland’s skiing season will become shorter as many low-lying ski resorts in Alpine regions are vulnerable to simultaneous reduction in snowfall and an increase in winter tourism activities.

Aware of the potential environmentalist backlash, mountain villages in Switzerland have begun to ballyhoo their green credentials to encourage climate-conscious visitors to the Alps.

As one such visitor (and a frequent one at that), I can’t travel the region without being stunned by the grandeur of the Matterhorn, which is regarded as the most photogenic mountain in the European Alps.

I have shot the Matterhorn from various perspectives and yet, each time I see this illustrious sculpture of nature, I am unable to

49

resist its hypnotic appeal and keep clicking until the peak is out of MARCH 27- APRIL 2 2011

TRAVEL

MARCH 27- APRIL 2 2011

sight after dusk. But recently this appeal carries a sense of concern

The cogwheel train meanders 30 minutes from Zermatt to the Gorn-

as I see the upper crust of the mountain stripped of its thick coat of

ergrat. It’s rewarding to stay overnight at the 3100 Kulmhotel Gorn-

ice and a shrinking glacier at the base of the Matterhorn.

ergrat to experience the countdown to one of nature’s most spec-

Today, Zermatt is one of the world’s top ski resorts and one of Eu-

tacular displays as the peaks are swathed in gold at daybreak.

rope’s most visited mountain areas. Although the centre of Zermatt

And in the summer, refreshing hiking trails through green pas-

has lost its ‘village’ appeal, the valley is still a car-free zone except

tures lead to the many lakes and water pools that reflect the lofty

for a few green-powered buggies zipping around the narrow streets.

peaks in clear, mineral-rich water. The whole valley blooms in a

In winter, visitors can opt for skiing, snowboarding, liquid trail-

medley of colors. Visitors can opt for a number of eco-friendly tour-

ing and ice climbing or just wander around taking the many moto-

ist activities. The Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn will transport bicycles

rised cableways or mountain rails to higher ground.

and their riders to Oberwald — the picturesque starting point of the

Visitors not geared for trekking in the cold opt to hop from one

pleasant bike tour along the river Rhone.

railway to the other. Even the trains run on ‘green energy’. The

Will these scenic wonders, which in truth belong to all

Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn and the Gornergrat Bahn offer routes

humanity, survive the disastrous damage we are causing to the

between Disentis and the Gornergrat in the highlands of Zermatt.

environment? a

The bare walls of Matterhorn in the peak of winter snow.

51 MARCH 27- APRIL 2 2011

POSITIVE PEOPLE PAKISTANIS

as good as it gets A philanthropic couple is determined to help in as many ways as they can.

BY SONIA MALIK

52

“Work is accomplished by doing it, not by talking about it,” says Lubna, quoting from Tehmina Durrani’s biography of Abdul Sattar Edhi, A Mirror to the Blind. “When I read this book, I felt inspired to help society in some way.”

motivational workshops to encourage people to donate to good

Lubna heads the Hope Uplift Foundation (HUF) which manag-

up. Soon afterwards, a car arrived at their house and dropped off

es different charitable projects. Her upcoming ventures include

an envelope containing Rs5,000. That became the seed money

MARCH 27- APRIL 2 2011

causes.

Ten years ago, Lubna’s nine-year-old daughter Anum won a ‘young entrepreneur’ award and in an interview with a newspaper expressed a desire to become a social worker when she grew

for what would become a very ambitious project.

hore for HUF donate Rs1,000 every month for a year. The money

“My husband and I raised some more money and opened the

has been used to give donations to Al-Shifa Eye Trust, pay the

first medical dispensary in Lahore’s Model Colony, a poor neigh-

schools fees for orphans at SOS, rehabilitate drug addicts, give

bourhood on the outskirts of Defence,” says Lubna. An employee

bicycles to deserving families, build concrete rooftops and floors

of Kasur Gulab Devi Hospital and an old friend of the couple, Dr

in a slum area, and treat burn and kidney patients.

Ijaz Rizwan, agreed to work in the clinic five days a week.

Around Rs8,000 come from the Hope Uplift welfare shop in Punjab

Next, Lubna opened two schools, one in Charrar Village in the

Society, which sells used clothes, furniture and electronics donated by

middle of Defence, and another in Model Colony. Today, over

Lubna’s friends and acquaintances. Women belonging to poorer ar-

200 students are enrolled at the Model Colony school where they

eas, make and sell chutneys and pickles through a herbal shop, estab-

are given lunch free of cost. The HUF also provides funds to T1, a

lished by Lubna. Half the profit goes to these women while the other

home for the destitute which currently accommodates around 15

half is contributed to HUF projects.

widows.

HUF inspires other people to donate money to its cause

Among HUF’s numerous projects is a travel home on the out-

too. Two jewelers give 10 per cent of their earnings while

skirts of the Shaukat Khanum Cancer Hospital, which lodges

a milkman give five per cent of his. The Punjab radiol-

nearly 200 visitors who have no place to stay. Beds, tea and wash-

ogy centre also donates a certain amount to HUF.

room facilities are provided free of cost, while free meals are

Lubna isn’t the only do -gooder in the family. Her hus-

given twice a month. Seven months ago, Lubna started giving

band, Salman Shakoh set up a dialysis centre at Ganga

small, interest-free loans to people in dire need of money under

Ram Hospital ten years ago with Rs1.5 million that he

a micro-financing scheme. A student who earned a scholarship

raised with the help of friends. Shakoh recruited and

to a UK school was given Rs 50,000 as he had no money to rent

trained staff for the dialysis centre, though he wasn’t

accommodation. He returned the amount within four months.

an employee of the hospital. Then, five years later, he

Similarly an embroiderer was granted a loan of Rs 100,000 to buy

set up another dialysis centre at the Mayo Hospital.

thread and begin a business. She returned the money in eight

Out of the 250,000 Pakistanis in need of dialysis, only

months.

15,000 undergo treatment because of poverty and lack of

Today the number of charity projects under the HUF stands at

facilities.

27. These include programs that provide subsidised meals to the

Though public hospitals have started providing dialy-

poor, dowries to women about to get married, and educational

sis for free as long as the cost of the dialysis kit (Rs1,500)

scholarships to needy students. Under the Natural Disaster Pro-

is borne by the patient, the number of patients in need

gram initiated by HUF last year, 102 flood-affected homes were

of dialysis still outnumber the facilities available. Do -

constructed in Layyah. HUF is also contributing towards a com-

nations for Shakoh’s dialysis centre at Ganga Ram Hos-

munity centre with some help from the government in Layyah,

pital were around Rs300,000 but dropped to Rs90,000 a

that will include two schools, a mosque and a vocational centre

month after the Punjab government made the dialysis

for women. Rs40,000 to Rs50,000 is donated to Al Shifa Eye Hos-

treatment free.

pital every month for transplants and cataract removal operations.

HUF raises money by getting 57 women under Friends of La-

Shakoh sometimes worries about his wife, given that she juggles so many responsibilities at once. But both husband and wife live by the belief that goodness comes to one by doing good to another. a MARCH 27- APRIL 2 2011

53

WASHINGTONDIARY

las vegas eaving

Sin City is a little more subdued these days, but only the truly reckless would bet against Las Vegas’ revival.

BY SHAHZAD RAZA

It’s not just the gamblers who pay pilgrimage to Sin City — it’s fun for the wholesome family types too. As daddy blows the kids’ college fund at the roulette table and mommy squanders the rent for a Prada bag, the kids can have a go at the 203-feet rollercoaster joyride over New York — a casino depicting The Big Apple — which drops them down to 144-feet at a speed of 65 mph. . . much the same way the American economy has plummeted, drying up the wealth of this desert oasis. Not only have

new casinos failed to appear on the Vegas skyline, houses under foreclosure arrangements have been abandoned by residents.

54

The jolt to the American economy sent shockwaves all the way

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

to Vegas. Still, the greenbacks and the plastic money find its way to Vegas, and it seems the recovery process has begun. Gamblers

and revelers come from every corner of the world to the legend-

ary strip that stretches from that acme of modern architecture, the Mandalay casino, in the South of Vegas, to the icon of past

glory, the Golden Nuggets casino, in the North. And they are not disappointed.

One of the cleanest and most well-maintained cities in the US,

Vegasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; casino hotels are infinitely hospitable as long as you keep

paying the dues. But before emptying my wallet at the casino table, I had to heed the calls of my empty stomach. The food and services here are amazingly cheap as Vegas tycoons adhere to the

philosophy of their forefathers. They donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind plying you with cheap food and drinks, as the casino floors are their true sources of profit.

Downtown Las Vegas is not yet a prime dining destination,

but El Sombrero is good for a meal or two, as is the Beat Coffeehouse and Records. After dark, pop into the Griffin for good beer,

Downtown Cocktail Room for mixed drinks or the Beauty Bar for local bands.

The eating is much better out on Spring Mountain Road, which

runs through the heart of Chinatown. Think Korean barbecue,

Sichuan noodles, Vietnamese sandwiches, Filipino bakeries,

Malaysian satay and Japanese izakayas. It would require volumes

to cover the cuisine on offer, but one bit of advice is essential: if you are planning to visit Vegas, just leave your weighing scales back home.

The original Las Vegas is at the extreme north of the strip.

What had once been a railroad town was transformed, with the passage of time and the wanton use of electricity, into the bewil-

dering neon jungle that has come to symbolise Las Vegas. Casino themes have also experienced an evolution, from the Old West to Orientalism to Family-Friendly. At Lost Vegas, an antiques shop,

every little bit of Las Vegas history is on sale. Commemorative

The famous Bellagio.

55

A view of Hoover Dam. MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

WASHINGTONDIARY

The waitresses take rounds offering players free drinks, dealers roll the balls in roulette, distribute the cards on poker tables, hoping to get every nickle out of the players’ pockets. The pit bosses keep an eye on the dealers, as the floor managers remain vigilant throughout their shifts. boxing pins, a Marilyn Monroe mannequin, ashtrays from seemingly every casino throughout history — incredible.

The casino floors are an altogether different world. Here, there

are more versions of slot machines than one can imagine and players can bet as low as one cent to as high as $100. The slots

are just one part of the gambling spread: poker tables, roulette, crap tables, baccarat and much more keep both the amateur and professional gamblers involved.

Meanwhile, the waitresses take rounds offering players free

drinks, dealers roll the balls in roulette, distribute the cards on

poker tables, hoping to get every nickle out of the players’ pockets. The pit bosses keep an eye on the dealers, as the floor managers remain vigilant throughout their shifts. Massage girls knead away the physical and mental strain of gambling.

But according to Newsweek, Sin City has no jobs, and the newly

homeless are living in drainage pipes. The unprecedented two-

year economic crisis — with a total bleed of $6billion — is more than at any point in Las Vegas history. Official unemployment is near 14 per cent, the nation’s worst rate among big cities. But

when you add those who have lost hours or dropped out of the labour force altogether, actual joblessness is a Libya-like 26 per cent, according to Stephen Brown, the director of the Center for

Business and Economic Research at University of Nevada, Las Vegas (UNLV), quoted in Newsweek.

Now, Las Vegas might get its biggest act since Elvis. The shim-

mering French-Canadian singer, Celine Dion, has signed a $100

million three-year contract with Caesar Palace, which is expected to bring hundreds of millions more in revenue while creating new jobs.

56

Analysts are portraying Celine as a saviour as much as a star.

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Tourists enjoy the classic ‘Wheel of Fortune’.

The casino is paying her a reported $100 million for 210 shows over the next three years. During her prior run, from 2003 to

2007, Dion sold out more than 700 consecutive performances, smashing local records for total audience (nearly three million),

and bringing in more than $400 million at the box office, more

greenbacks than the Rat Pack, Liberace, and Elvis combined.

“This time around, she’s being touted as a one-woman stimulus bill — worth at least $114 million a year and thousands of jobs,

according to UNLV. But in an $18 billion–dollar economy — one so

sluggish it was recently ranked among the five worst in the world — can Celine’s return really have an impact?” wrote Newsweek.

At the south end of the Strip, near the iconic “Welcome to Fab-

ulous Las Vegas” sign, a hidden concrete path leads into a 500mile warren of wet, trash-strewn drainage pipes that function as

an underground shelter for hundreds of the city’s downtrodden.

Several have been laid off from the same well-paid, benefitspacked service jobs. Vegas is no longer a working-class paradise.

Life here is cruel and dangerous and, reportedly, the number of pipe-dwellers is increasing.

Recently, Mayor Oscar Goodman has described himself as “The

Happiest Mayor of the Greatest City in the World.” Vegas has

survived many odds in the past and is still surviving, even if the neon lights seem a little dimmer now. a

57 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

REVIEW

featured review of the week

film reanimating the old west

BY AMMARA KHAN

Gore Verbinski is no doubt one of the most versatile directors in Hollywood today. Widely known for his Pirates of the Caribbean series, Verbinski has also directed a horror movie The Ring and the satirical The Weather Man starring Nicolas Cage. Already a legend in cinematic experimentation, Verbinski takes over the task of recreating an old western romance in his new animated movie Rango.

Old western romances are marked by a consistent nostalgia for the past and ideals that undermine today’s social values. These movies value the antique and the exotic and express a powerful longing for what came before. Using romance as strategy is perhaps one of the most effective ways to highlight the erroneous ways of the contemporary world. Not parodying it like most contemporary directors, Verbinski brilliantly uses the genre as an alternative to contemporary reality in a way that modern cinema-goers would find accessible. The notoriously slippery clash between modernity and antiquity becomes a light satire in this movie — neither too grim, nor too mild.

Glorifying an eccentric anti-hero has become Verbinsky’s calling card: In Pirates of the Caribbean it was a shabby ungentlemanly pirate, and in Rango it’s a slimy lizard.

The movie focuses on the many adventures of a pet chameleon (voiced by Johnny Depp) who has quixotic fantasies of becoming an actor in the role of a hero in a romance who saves a damsel in distress with his sheer bravery and valour. A little bored by his acts of grandeur inside his glass cage, he ironically says: “People, I’ve had an epiphany! The hero cannot exist in a vacuum. What our story needs is an ironic unexpected event that will propel the hero into conflict.” And suddenly there is a road accident which separates the chameleon from his owner, leaving him alone on a road which divides the new urban settlements from the American Old West.

Thus, our hero is out of the vacuum and embarks on his destiny to 58 save a maiden and her town.

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

reinvention Showing unflinching courage, unconditional love and a curiously amiable spirit, Rango immediately wins the hearts of the audience

Animated movies to look forward to in 2011 1. Rio, voiced by Jesse Eisenberg and Anne Hathaway. To be released on April 8, 2011 2. Kung Fu Panda 2, voiced by Jack Black, Dustin Hoffman and Angelina Jolie. To be released on May 27, 2011 3. Cars 2, voiced by Owen Wilson. To released on June 24, 2011 4. Winnie the Pooh, voiced by Jim Cummings, Tom Kenny and Craig Ferguson. To be released on July 15, 2011 5. Puss in Boots, voiced Antonio Banderas, Salma Hayek and Zach Galifianakis. To be released on November 4, 2011

The movie focuses on the many adventures of a pet chameleon (voiced by Johnny Depp) who has quixotic fantasies of becoming an actor in the role of a hero in a romance who saves a damsel in distress with his sheer bravery and valour.

Isla Fisher voices the character of Beans, a rebellious strongheaded maiden who needs a hero to save her and her decaying town, aptly named Dirt. Upon reaching the town of Dirt, the chameleon takes on the disguise of a gunslinger named Rango.

Showing unflinching courage, unconditional love and a curiously amiable spirit, Rango immediately wins the hearts of the audience.

Bill Nighy does an excellent job with the character of Rattlesnake Jake, a snake who is a gunslinger. During what feels like a dilatory and meandering move towards the climax, interspersed by many references to classic Hollywood western classics including The Good, The Bad and The Ugly, the newly named hero meets the antagonist. Rango’s encounter with the Rattlesnake is the undoubtedly one of the movie’s finest moments.

The movie’s thematic preoccupations cannot be pinned down to mere heroic transformations. At the heart of these chivalric pursuits is a search for identity. A previously nameless chameleon undergoes a normative process when he names himself Rango, unconsciously weaving the pattern of his own destiny.

Besides emphasising the values of courage and sacrifice and indirectly navigating the clash between primitive and obsolete ways and modern social technological changes, Rango offers a unique cinematic experience and a giddy delight.

59 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

REVIEW

film heartbreak hotel

BY BATOOL ZEHRA

“Do you want the Cupid’s Cove or the Future Room?” Dean (Ryan Gosling) asks his wife Cindy (Michelle Williams), as the two book reservations at a cheap hotel for a romantic getaway.

He may as well be asking her about the path of their relationship, which is fast hurtling towards an end. Ironically, they choose the Future Room with its tacky revolving bed and space age themed wall paper, where an attempt at rekindling their flame leads to disaster.

Director Derek Cianfrance’s Blue Valentine , an emotionally lacerating portrayal of a fraying marriage, is a far cry from Hollywood romantic fantasies. Potent in the knowledge that love, even real, chemical love such as Dean and Cindy’s, can turn sour, Blue Valentine starts six years into their marriage. Cindy is a harried nurse, Dean a house-painter, raising a young child. When the family dog dies, grief, instead of drawing them closer, reveals the irrevocable wedge between them. As Cindy sobs uncontrollably, Dean berates her through clenched teeth “How many times did I tell you to lock the gate!” What, we wonder, are two people so obviously at odds doing with each other?

Cianfrance gives us the answer in smooth flashbacks and leisurely long takes, going back to the couple’s early courting, when Cindy was a medical student and Dean worked for a moving company. The present transitions to the past smoothly. No subtitles are needed here — the actors’ expressions signal the shift in time more convincingly than any captions. Cindy’s brightness and intelligence in the past sequences segue into bitterness, anger and seething resentment. Dean goes from being an unambitious good guy to a frustrated layabout, with a receding hairline and a cigarette perpetually dangling from his lips. Williams and Gosling have a searing on-screen chemistry, and the exuberance of their relationship is brilliantly captured in an improvised scene depicting the couple’s first date. He plays the ukulele; she dances a goofy jig, without a trace of artifice.

60 But we view the joy and freshness of even that early love through MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

love hurts Blue Valentine chronicles a relationship in decay the lens of sorrow and hindsight. Deft yet natural flashbacks show us the trajectory of their love, honing into the seeds of their ruin, barely perceptible at the time. Scenes from the past in which Cindy clutches onto Dean for support are juxtaposed with those from the present in which she barks “I need some space!” as he tries to come near her. Their present day defensiveness makes a painful contrast to that first reaching out, and the movie is rich in details of a relationship in decay. These characters change by becoming more and more the same, refusing, even unable, to change their behaviours and grow together.

In all of this, Cianfrance manages to insert with uncanny naturalness, a comment on abortion so harrowing, you’ll be at the edge of your seat.

Cindy and Dean’s battles resonate deeply and the pain we experience as viewers is visceral. The movie feels like Cianfrance had to wrench his guts out to make it. The director had originally planned to film the past scenes several years in advance of the present ones, but couldn’t because of budgetary restrictions. But both Gosling and Williams give powerful performances. I haven’t yet seen Portman in Black Swan, but I’m hard-pressed to imagine what could possibly trump Williams’ portrayal of the stressed out Cindy constantly trying to hide her feelings and quash her resentment. Long after you’re done watching it, Blue Valentine will have you mulling over the quirks of relationships, and the destruction wreaked by love.

book war of the worlds

BY ZARRAR KHUHRO

An entire civilization lies divided and demoralised. Religious debates and schisms turn brother against brother as rulers pay lip service to the concept of unity, faith and discipline while secretly conspiring against each other. Itinerant priests stir up religious revolt as the established clerical structure remains mired in corruption and political decay. And all the while a united and vigorous enemy swallows nation after nation, and it seems that nothing can stop its inevitable advance.

This isn’t a tale of the modern Muslim world, but rather the story of 16th century Europe, beset by internal turmoil and external threats, and seemingly incapable of dealing with either. It is the story of sixteen years that shook the world.

In writing historical works it is easy, through the benefit of hindsight, to become lost in the grand design. Some writers begin to concentrate too much on the broad strokes of history, and view the way events panned out as part of some inevitable process in which the actions of individuals are meaningless, or at best, footnotes to the larger story. In Defenders of the Faith James Reston Jr does not make that mistake.

This is very much a story of men, with all their foibles, prejudices and brilliance. It is a tale of the dour and practical Holy Roman Emperor Charles V and his Muslims rival, the grandiose Sulayman the magnificent, Sultan of the Ottoman Empire. Sulayman, eager to outshine his father, set his sights on finally defeating the Holy Roman Empire and spreading Islam across Europe. Charles V, though aware of the threat at Europe’s doorstep was too mired in the fratricidal politics of the European courts to focus on the real danger.

It is a rare writer that can make historical characters come to life. It is far easier to ascribe motivations and agenda to characters we have plucked out of our imagination, but by dint of painstaking research and a gifted quill James Reston Jr presents us not only with characters we come to know and understand, but also

going in circles History doesn’t repeat itself… but it does rhyme. explains what circumstances lead to their rise and fall. There is the flamboyant and ambitious Francis I of France, the grasping Henry VII of England, the proud Ottoman vizier Ibrahim Pasha, the passionate Martin Luther King and a succession of feckless and venal Popes more concerned with political power than spiritual growth.

One gets so caught up in the sweep of this book that it is easy to forget that one is reading history and not a work of historical fiction. Despite knowing better I found myself hoping that Vienna would fall to the Turks, or that the Ottomans would not let harem politics prevail over statecraft. But these issues had been decided centuries ago. In revisiting that era it is easy to find parallels to the present position of Pakistan and the Muslim world. All the elements of 16th century Europe are present in the here and now: the sectarian schisms, the hair-splitting theological debates that hamper rational thought, the political divides and the rulers whose only goal is self-preservation. But there is also a lesson to learn from Defenders of the Faith, and it is this: nothing is inevitable. a 61 MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

HOROSCOPE

BY SHELLEY VON STRUNCKEL

Aries March 20 - April 19 Much as you dislike even thinking about compromise, it’s really the only way to handle certain increas-

ingly tricky situations. Bear in mind that you’re not alone, and others aren’t overly happy with arrangements either. Bizarrely, therefore, everybody will welcome the influence of

Mercury going retrograde, in Aries, from Wednesday, since it

forces changes, some of which will transform those disagreeable arrangements into far more user-friendly ones.

Taurus April 20 - May 20 Certain inspirations are so compelling that you feel no need to check things out. This is fortunate, Shelley von Strunckel is an internationally acclaimed astrologer who created the first horoscope column for the London Sunday Times in 1992.

A frequent lecturer, she writes daily,

since those facts would be contrary to your instincts. But that shouldn’t stop you anyway, since with the actual circumstances

changing often, soon events and your plans will merge seam-

lessly. In the meanwhile, with the retrograde Mercury confusing matters from Wednesday, the less you discuss plans, the better.

weekly and monthly horoscopes in publications around the world including South China Morning Post, The Gulf News, Tatler, French and Chinese Vogue and now The Express Tribune Magazine.

Gemini May 21 - June 20 One of the things you most enjoy about

the process of change are lively discussions about various options. Indulge in heated exchanges now and you’ll be misunder-

stood, particularly after your ruler Mercury goes retrograde on

Wednesday. While you can’t remain silent, be aware that even simple observations are likely to be misinterpreted. Instead fo-

cus on untangling misunderstandings from the past, which will keep you very busy.

Cancer June 21 - July 22 Judging by the current intense planetary focus on elements of your work and lifestyle, you’ve some pivotal

decisions looming. However, the actual foundation on which they’d be made is changing, so even simple arrangements must

be flexible. What’s more, with Mercury retrograde from Wednes-

day adding yet more confusion, you’ll want to think as much

about resolving past and present issues as on planning for the future.

Leo July 23 - August 22 While things are definitely going your way,

the accompanying uncertainty is still no fun. Out of character as

it may be, simply go with the flow. If initially this seems weak, you’ll soon witness situations you’ve battled to keep afloat being

altered by yet more changes. What’s more, with the retrograde

Mercury confusing matters from Wednesday, your time’s better spent in exploration than on planning.

Virgo August 23 – September 22 It’s unlike you to accept anything that’s illogical. However, having already gone through several

versions of arrangements you regarded as solid, only to have to re-

organise them, you’re less inclined to argue. If this seems weak,

yet more changes will assure you the wisdom of this strategy.

Besides, once your ruler Mercury goes retrograde on Wednesday,

62

you’ll have a few questions of your own to reflect on.

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Libra September 23 – October 22 You spend so much time listening to others and reassuring them about their concerns that you

sometimes ignore pressing matters of your own. Certain decisions may be pressing, but your instincts are far more reliable than facts. This is especially true after Wednesday, when the

retrograde Mercury adds its own brand of confusion. Knowing that, you’re better off following the motto, ‘never justify, never explain’.

Scorpio October 23 – November 21 Some obstacles are no more

than that. But others are designed to force you to consider various ideas or options you’ve previously ignored or regarded as unrealistic. Perhaps once that was true, but with the actual

circumstances evolving both rapidly and dramatically, what’s

worthwhile is changing as well. However, with Mercury retrograde from Wednesday, unexpected twists could bring even more of those changes.

Sagittarius November 22 – December 21 Few things annoy you

more than situations in which you’re forced to bow to others’ silly views or equally absurd regulations. But it would appear

you’ve no choice. Fight these and you’ll end up frustrated. Giv-

ing in may seem weak. Do so and, especially after Mercury turns retrograde on Wednesday, you’ll realise even this arrangements won’t last long and certainly aren’t worth doing battle over.

Capricorn December 22 – January 19 Obviously you’d never commit to an arrangement that didn’t add up in practical terms. Yet

that’s exactly what you’re being cornered into. Question what’s going on, but in a manner that’s more about being inquisitive

than confrontation. Unlikely as this seems, this will lead to conversations that are illuminating all around, especially once

Mercury goes retrograde on Wednesday and everybody’s wresting with confusion and facts gone astray.

Aquarius January 20 – February 18 This is a strange period. While you’re experiencing remarkable personal insights and sublime connections with others, you’re also facing situations that are as bizarre as they are unfair. Savour what there is to enjoy and try to avoiding judging those trickier situations, since what’s most

annoying now could soon fit superbly into elements of your life that are in the process of being utterly transformed.

Pisces February 19 – March 19 There’s no denying that certain

individuals or events are deeply touching. But it isn’t easy to

appreciate them when so much is unsettling. Waste no time attempting to wish that chaos away. While some is triggered by

Mercury’s retrograde cycle, which begins on Wednesday, the rest

For more information, to order personal charts and to download & listen to detailed audiocasts, visit www.shelleyvonstrunckel.com

is part of a dramatic and ultimately amazing series of develop-

63

ments that will, quite simply, transform your life.

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

THE HATER

10 things I hate about ...dieting

1 2 3 4 5 64

BY SAAD ZUBERI

Not losing any weight. Don’t tell me not to be discouraged because I am. And I don’t feel healthy either, I just feel dead and hungry.

The in-between clothing stage. Should I throw away

the loose jeans and t-shirts or should I hold on to them — just in case?

Getting insensitive diet advice from physically fit

people. I know they’re just trying to be helpful and encouraging, but the foe-creating retorts that come to mind as they blabber on about how easy it is for them to lose weight are difficult to keep zipped up.

6 7 8 9 10

Weighing myself. Even more so in front of others.

Watching my weight go down one day (because I read

the scale myself) and watching it climb up the very next (because someone else read it for me).

Looking forward to the day that I will be at my “goal

weight” and realising that I have to continue with this horrendous diet in order to “maintain” that goal weight. It’s not a nice feeling knowing I’ll never actu-

ally be “off” my diet again. It is my life… for the rest of my life… which, if I don’t diet, won’t be as long as I would like!

Waiting for someone, anyone, to say: “Have you lost weight?” and being able to say in return, “Why yes I have, two whole pounds! Thank you for noticing.”

Planning what I am going to eat before I eat it. I realise that eating on a whim is not the best way to diet (and

eating that way is probably responsible for me having to be on a diet in the first place), but I am after all a

growing man who needs to know that he can have his impulsive steak and mashed potatoes without feeling guilty about it.

MARCH 27-APRIL 2 2011

Watching physically fit people around me eat and enjoy everything I can’t eat.

And especially... eating less and exercising more.