The Express Tribune Magazine - September 28

SEPTEMBER 28-OCTOBER 4 2014

Too much on your plate?

No one has to go hungry if you start sharing excess food

September 28-october 4 2014

Feature

Too much on your plate?

Cover Story Down to the basics

Sharing excess food can prevent many from going hungry

Pakistan’s undergarment industry holds immense untapped potential

36

Feature

28 Feature

Restored spirituality

The Amburiq mosque stands as a reminder of a grand history

44

4

#SelfBuilt Google gives you the option to build your own smartphone

40 Regulars

6 People & Parties: Out and about with beautiful people

46 Reviews: Books and Movies 52 Society: How to register an FIR

Magazine In-charge: Sarah Munir, Senior Subeditor: Dilaira Dubash and Subeditor: Simoneel Chawla Creative Team: Amna Iqbal, Essa Malik, Jamal Khurshid, Munira Abbas, Mohsin Alam, Omer Asim, Sanober Ahmed & Talha Ahmed Khan Publisher: Bilal A Lakhani. Editor: Kamal Siddiqi For feedback and submissions: magazine@tribune.com.pk Twitter: @ETribuneMag & Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ETribuneMag Printed: uniprint@unigraph.com

PEOPLE & PARTIES

Amira and Taniya

Models

Sania Kamal and Nasreen Sheikh

Taniya, Tayyab and Saadia

6 September 28-october 4 2014

Guests

Sidra, Asma, Taughira and Maira

PhoToS CouRTESy CATAlyST PR & MARkETIng

nishat hotel holds a nishat linen fashion show in lahore

PEOPLE & PARTIES Tuc holds a premiere for the movie Khoobsurat at Atrium Cinema, in karachi

Mehreen

PhoToS CouRTESy XEnITh PR

Hira Lari with a friend

Fiza Ali with a friend

Fia

Tapu Javeri

8 September 28-october 4 2014

Hira Tareen

Muzna Ebrahim

Fatima Naqvi

DOWN TO THE BASICS The undergarment industry in Pakistan has great potential but needs a lift

BY ATIKA REHMAN PHOTOS BY ARIF SOOMRO DESIGN BY KIRAN SHAHID

28 SEPTEMBER 28-OCTOBER 4 2014

At about 12:30 on a Tuesday afternoon, female workers at the airconditioned, expansive ground floor sewing unit of the International Foundation Garment (IFG) factory, Karachi, are busy as usual. From big brown boxes on the floor, skin-coloured adjustable straps are picked out and stitched on to identically cut and sized polyester cotton pieces. Hands move deftly from carton to work table. Nimble fingers firmly secure the standard three hooks and eyes into back straps. Delicate lace is methodically sewn onto cups. Over the din and hum of Indian music, sewing machines, turning spools and clipping scissors, the women chat and exchange smiles, all the while focusing one vigilant eye on the bra or nightie that is being meticulously stitched.

These 300-plus women are employees at one of the largest local manufacturers of women’s undergarments — a company that supplies bras, briefs, chemises, camisoles and nightwear to nearly 150 cities in Pakistan. Market research or official statistics indicating the full size of the undergarments business in the country are practically nonexistent. But those familiar with the trade confess that prospects of production and projected growth are huge.

Lift, support, enhance Compared to the blossoming billion-dollar intimate apparel industry in the United States and Europe, Pakistan’s industry is underdeveloped. The gap between demand and supply is startlingly wide and the industry is largely neglected by the textile and hosiery associations. Three or four organised businesses meet a mere fraction of the demand. And even this number is not specifically tabulated, supervised or uplifted by regulatory government bodies.

“I cannot tell you the size of the local market — it is very small in relation to its potential. But here is a back of the envelope calculation,” says Rafique Bhimjee, owner of IFG, whose brand’s target market is the educated middle class. He roughly estimates that if 30% of Pakistan’s 90 million-strong female population buys even three good quality bras per year, it translates to a potential sale of Rs81 million a year.

Bhimjee, who has been heading IFG since 1971, explains that without a dedicated lingerie association, the trade is unchartered and murky water to dive into. “The research is mostly independent and surveys are not carried out systematically,” he says, hinting that the credibility of the data given by independent surveyors is low. “It is a very difficult and tricky industry. The techniques are complicated and the manufacturing and sourcing of raw materials is a challenge.”

SEPTEMBER 28-OCTOBER 4 2014

29

Most of the fabric used at the International Foundation Garment Factory, Karachi, is local. Other components such as hooks, elastic, lace and accessories are imported from Malaysia and Thailand.

Most of the basic fabric used at the factory is local, made by suppliers who are largely non-serious about lingerie. Their interest in the business is minimal as there are much more lucrative ventures at hand.

“During the summer, they are all so busy making lawn, they don’t even take our calls,” admits an amused Bhimjee. Important components such as straps, hooks, elastic, lace and accessories are imported from Thailand and Malaysia. The downside to importing such components is that the cycle is stretched out and orders need to be placed well in advance. Company owners must also adhere to the minimum quantity requirement, a stipulation that automatically raises costs. But despite these exasperating setbacks, Bhimjee has had relatively better support to set up shop than other local undergarment manufacturers.

When renowned international brand Triumph — one of the world’s largest lingerie manufacturers with over 125 years in production — set up the IFG factory in Karachi in the 1970s, it brought the technical expertise and necessary equipment with it. Spurred by an unpredictable security situation that discouraged foreign quality-control specialists or buyers from visiting, Triumph wound up operations in Pakistan a few years ago but continued to supply products. Upon its exit as a manufacturer, it left behind paraphernalia ranging from band knives and die cutting machines to size charts and detailed patterns — machines that IFG uses to make lingerie today. Bhimjee describes the present-day factory as an ‘assembly plant’ — much like Indus Motors Pakistan is for Toyota.

Local lingerie brand, BeBelle, has similar problems, but without the proficiency and inherited wisdom of IFG. Director sales and marketing at Bebelle, Kamran Naseem says his company has been struggling with technicalities since the brand’s inception in 1985.

“Unlike IFG, we don’t have designers,” he confesses. “We see samples of Victoria’s Secret bras and other such brands but don’t have skilled lingerie designers to copy the cut and finish. Our local guys try to imitate the design and structure, but if as much as one millimetre is off, the shape and comfort obviously go wrong.”

Busting mindsets More than the relatively minor details of maximiser, cross-over and under-wired bras, the bigger problem is of tackling mindsets, says Naseem who supplies lingerie under the BeBelle label to 80 cities in Pakistan along with imported Thai bra, panty sets and nightwear. He highlights some alarming trends. “A survey conducted by various sales assistants revealed that 90% of women here only wear panties during the week of menstruation,” he says, adding that only women from the working or elite class wear underwear on a daily basis.

Naseem indicates that about 80% of Pakistani buyers wear lingerie for basic use and are largely ignorant about style, fashion or comfort. “They don’t know much. Most don’t even know the difference between day and night wear. They are fixated on one size and don’t realise that things change with childbirth and weight gain.” He admits that duping women in this field is extremely easy since most of them are so unaware.

Another roadblock that prevents the industry from developing is Pakistani women’s orthodox fixation on the troika of colours. “I started when I was 16 and I am now 43, but nothing has changed,” says Naseem. “All they want is white, black and skin-coloured lingerie. We have tried baby pink, violet and vanilla but the response is very slow. Abroad, women are so evolved. They match their undergarments to their clothes.”

He attributes women’s nonchalance towards aesthetics to a lack of selfawareness and repressed sexuality. “On my wedding, my kurta was more expensive than my sherwani. Why? Because it made me feel good. Our women are the opposite. For example, one customer asked us to remove the wire from her underwire bra without realising its benefits or use. Customers are like that. They don’t care much for beauty or self-satisfaction,” he says, adding under his breath, “She can take the wire out and feel like Kareena Kapoor, but she doesn’t look it.”

He narrates another incident where a customer told a sales assistant that she didn’t want to buy pretty, colourful lingerie because she was scared of her husband’s reaction. “The husbands ask ‘why are you buying something so nice to wear inside? Who are you going to show it to?’”

Naseem also expresses his bewilderment about men being too involved with buying women’s daily lingerie. “In our culture, some families just don’t have a system that allows women to buy their own basics,” he says, adding that even undergarments sections within cosmetic stores often have male sales assistants. He feels that women are conscious of cameras in changing rooms and reluctant to buy lingerie in the presence of men in a shop, hence they would rather let their husband choose.

Despite the high local demand, supply of undergarments has failed to keep up due to lack of research, infrastructure and investment in the industry.

Along with regular undergarments, IFG manufactures special post-mastectomy bras as well as a foam breast prosthesis for postsurgery breast cancer patients. The prostheses are similar in weight and texture to natural breast tissue and help women balance posture as well as keep their bra from shifting side to side or riding up.

31 SEPTEMBER 28-OCTOBER 4 2014

The chairperson of the Department of Psychiatry at Aga Khan University Hospital, Dr Murad Moosa Khan, says that this reinforcement of prejudiced male mentality can be explained by the way Pakistani society is organised in terms of gender rules.

“It fits into the notion of male dominance,” he says, adding that the trend is not specific to lingerie. “Many men control more than just the wardrobe element of a woman’s life; where she goes, whom she meets and what she spends are all under scrutiny.”

However, exceptions exist in the form of self-aware and informed urban females, such as 27-year-old Sheema Sohail.

“My mother’s generation is still uncomfortable discussing undergarments or spending too much time and money on

A tweeting bra designed to send the wearer a breast exam reminder each time it is unhooked, was launched in October last year, to promote breast cancer awareness.

The social undergarment designed

by OgilvyOne Athens, was a part of the Nestle Fitness campaign.

Worn by Greek celebrity, Maria Bacodimou, the bra would automatically tweet every time she unclasps it, the New York Daily News reported. it. But for me, that’s where the outfit begins,” she says. For girls like Sheema, not only is underwear an important part of their aesthetic sensibilities but they are also willing to spend a substantial amount on acquiring the right item. Unfortunately, it does nothing for the local market since their purchases comprise mostly of foreign brands acquired during their trips abroad.

That, which shall not be shown Marketing and advertising lingerie is as challenging as making or selling it. Manufacturers find themselves beating against a wall — how will they sell a product without showing it on a woman?

“We have to show the face, not figure,” says Bhimjee.

32 “Even at established newspapers, the editorial staff is afraid SEPTEMBER 28-OCTOBER 4 2014

Estimates suggest if 30% of Pakistan’s 90 million-strong female population buys even three good quality bras per year, it translates to a potential annual sale of Rs81 million.

of how an ad of a woman wearing lingerie will upset conservative elements. Sometimes, we are allowed to put up billboards and posters. Sometimes, we are not. We have to live with it.”

Naseem shares a similar story. When BeBelle started advertising in the late 1990s with Akhbar-e-Jahan, the publication was unwilling to push boundaries. “They weren’t allowed to show girls in sleeveless clothes, how were we to sell bras?”

He explains that his team used colourful font and instead of pictures. Their motto at the time — ‘BeBelle, har libas se pehle’ — was the main focus.

Muji Manghi, general manager at Red Comm advertising agency, confirms the existence of taboo surrounding lingerie ads. “People here think that since underwear is dirty and taboo, it should be hidden. It is bizarre, because while a model can wear revealing clothes at fashion shows, modeling lingerie could spell the end of her career.” He suggests an alternate theme. “Selling underwear should not be about selling the woman, it’s about selling comfort and how a woman feels. I would show women feeling confident.”

More than 300 women work at the International Foundation Garment factory in Karachi, which supplies undergarments and nightwear to nearly 150 cities in Pakistan.

Moiz Apparel, a manufacturer based in Faisalabad, exports 100% knitted jersey cotton bras and panties to Charm Tex in the US — a company that supplies basic items to correctional facilities and prisons.

According to the owner, Ahsan Moiz, he has been supplying about three or four containers to the company every year for the last five years.

Buckling up for competition A locally manufactured bra is priced somewhere between Rs250 and Rs600. In most cases, it is not padded. There is no under-wire or silky fabric. It is simple and fits the purpose.

But there are other kinds.

In the Shershah market in Karachi, second-hand garments — known locally as lunda — are stored in newly painted warehouses. A manager of one such godown, Rana Majid Khalid says that the clothes come in containers from Europe to Port Qasim and Mauripur. Each container, with a capacity to hold about 20,000kg, brings a fresh stock of used jackets, sweaters, bibs and lingerie. The invoice in his hand shows that a certain Danish and Noman Enterprises has paid £2,650 (Rs450,000 approximately) for nearly 21,000kg of clothes.

These goods are classified into A, B or C categories, depending on their condition. Buyers from the wholesale Haji Camp then purchase sets at Rs25 per kg to sell to small vendors who have stalls at weekly bazaars. The vendors sell them at prices

competitive with locally made undergarments.

Mohammad Younus, a stall-keeper at Sunday Bazaar, Karachi, sits on the floor amidst a canopy of colourful bras and ladies underwear purchased from Shershah market. After his trip to the warehouse, Younus says his entire family starts laundry. They wash, iron and dry the undergarments before they are displayed at the bazaar. “White acha chalta hai,” he says, reconfirming the demand for basic lingerie.

Apart from the lunda, there are stalls in Sunday Bazaar, as well as various other markets in big cities, that sell sealpacked Thai and Chinese undergarments. At a small cosmetics store in Bohri Bazaar, Karachi, shopkeeper Mohammad Tariq has fiery red and hot pink bras — complete with diamante and lace details — on display alongside fairness creams, kohl sticks and facial scrubs. “IFG is strong here,” he says, when asked what customers are demanding. “But Chinese products have given others a run for their money because they are cheap and better quality.”

Bhimjee decries the availability of such low-priced products. “I am totally in favour of legal imports because the competition is good,” he says. “But the smuggled Chinese goods are very cheap and retailers are happy to keep them because it allows for high (profit) margins.” He feels that all imports should pay the same duties and taxes he pays for imported components. “The lack of import control makes the whole industry inefficient. We need a level playing field.”

Ultimately, Naseem points out that while the sources for undergarments are numerous, there are very few local companies providing premium products. “The demand for basics is there for sure. But there is a gap because not many suppliers are providing good quality stuff. Lots of people in Sialkot and Faisalabad are manufacturing bras and panties, but it is more for trade bulk export orders. They don’t care about selling here or establishing a quality brand. They just want money.”

The year 2013 marked the modern bra centenary. Mary Phelps Jacob, a New York socialite, invented the first modern brassiere when she felt she had no suitable undergarments for a recently purchased sheer evening gown. Unhappy with how the dress looked over a chunky whalebone corset, the 19-year-old improvised with a pair of silk handkerchiefs and a length of pink ribbon and the bra was born. A 100 years later, the undergarment industry in Pakistan is still struggling for their consumers to catch up with this attitude — that what lies beneath is as important as what meets the eye.

Once these bare essentials find their due place in a woman’s mind, body and budget, the industry’s potential will know no bounds.

Atika Rehman is a former Express Tribune employee. She tweets @AtikaRehman SEPTEMBER 28-OCTOBER 4 2014

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FEATURE

Too much on your plate ?

No one has to go hungry if those with too much food share with those who have too little TEXT BY SADAF PERVEZ, PHOTOS BY ARIF SOOMRO DESIGN BY OMER ASIM

A man forages for something to eat in a garbage dump in Karachi. Disposed food items often serve as meals for the less-priveleged in Pakistan.

Perhaps one of life’s greatest injustices is when one person sleeps on a full stomach while another scours desperately for food a few feet away. While this is a direct consequence of the inequality that exists between people throughout the world, the situation is made a lot worse by the huge amounts of food that goes to waste each day due to improper management and disposal of leftovers.

“You cannot imagine the amount of food being wasted these days from buffet leftovers. This untouched food can fill the stomachs of around 100 to 150 people every day,” day, says Zoone Abbas, the CEO of Thali foundation, a non-profit organisation which set up its ‘Be my guest’ programme five o ensure that food which would otherwise go to years ago tto

waste found its way to those who need it the most. A whopping 1.3 billion tonnes of food is wasted annually, according to statistics by the Food and Agriculture Organization. This means that one third of all food produced globally, with a retail equivalent of $1 trillion is wasted each year. In addition to the retail cost of wasted food, there is also $700 billion lost in natural resources. This figure includes $172 billion in wasted water, $42billion in cleared forests, and $429 billion in related greenhouse gas costs. Moreover, it takes a minimum of 2,000 litres of water to produce a kilogramme of rice and around 15,000 litres to produce a kilogramme of red meat, as defined by the World Health Organization.

Keeping in mind the numerous resources that go into food production, the current disregard for food wastage is alarm-

40%

In the United States, an estimated of edible food is thrown away by retailers and households. In the United Kingdom, 8.3 million tonnes of food is wasted by households each year.

ing. Hence, organisations such as Thali might be an exception but they are a step in the right direction. “Our aim is to play the role of the middle man so that those who hardly get a meal can be fed through meals the more fortunate take for granted,” says Abbas.

When they started out, Abbas along with her team knocked on the doors of several restaurants and hotels but the response was quiet unwelcoming initially. Individuals, on the other hand, responded to their requests a lot more favourably. There were a few exceptions, however, in the form of small-scale restaurants and an Islamabad-based telecom company that started providing Thali with its lunch buffet leftovers on weekdays, which was then distributed to the needy. The bulk of its food supplies comes from private dinners, parties, weddings and events which is used to feed nearly 150 people daily. The contribution can either be made on behalf of the host or the catering companies that are taking care of the food at the event.

Even though Thali has been advocating its cause for a couple of years now, acquiring enough food on a daily basis still remains a challenge. Its greatest struggle so far has not just been procuring food but also salvaging food items that might go to waste otherwise or are disposed off carelessly. There has been a noticeable change in people’s attitudes though as they become more aware of the correct way to deal with leftovers and unwanted food.

Thali currently operates in Rawalpindi and Islamabad where meal packs are distributed outside markets, hospitals and even at traffic signals to children, labourers and anyone who is in need. The foundation also reaches out to flood and disaster victims, as well as internally displaced persons. Plans to kickstart the initiative in Lahore are also in the pipeline.

1.3 billion tonnes of food produced globally

Along with being the facilitator, Thali also aims to inculcate a practice among people of donating food on their own, as summarised aptly in their motto ‘khali karo ya thali karo’ (either finish the food on your plate or share it with the less fortunate).

Ahmed Rafay Alam, an environmental activist, wholeheartedly endorses this motto since he feels that those producing the waste should also take responsibility for it. Moreover, Pakistan is also extremely vulnerable to climate change and will see a 50% reduction in crop yield by 2030, according to the German Watch’s Global Climate Risk Index of 2012. These resources are already under pressure due to, “severe flooding, agricultural malpractices, and local governance.” Rabia Manzoor, a research analyst at Sustainable Development Policy Institute cautions that by wasting resources we are risking livelihoods and causing adverse effects on food insecurity. The situation will only be made worse by food wastage which will further drive up prices in developing nations.

Judging by the current situation, it may be a long wait or even

Five simple things you can do to reduce waste 1. Compost — a process that allows food waste to be converted into nutrient-rich organic fertiliser for gardening.

2. Donate to food banks 3. Better home storage that prevents rotting and wastage 4. Buy less food 5. Responsible grocery shopping SOURCE: WORLDWATCH INSTITUTE

too late by the time waste management and recycling schemes are imposed and implemented in urban and rural areas across Pakistan. Hence, a far more feasible alternative is to utilise the wilting vegetables and perfectly good food that we know nobody is going to eat. On an individual level, we can all learn a lesson from the anonymous man who placed a refrigerator outside his neighbourhood in Saudi Arabia, according to BBC reports. It was said to be an invitation for neigbours to donate their extra food and for people in need to help themselves. The initiative created waves on social media as people called on mosques and households to put out more fridges in an attempt to feed not only the body, but the soul through a great act of charity.

goes to waste every year.

SOURCE: FOOD AND AGRICULTURE ORGANIZATION

Sadaf Parvez is a freelance writer and blogger. She tweets @sadafpervez

FEATURE

The smartphone trend kickstarted in 1994 when IBM released Simon, the first ever commercial touchscreen personal digital assistant, followed by the release of the Nokia 9000 in 1996, the first of the Communicator series widely regarded as the first smartphone. Almost a decade later,

1973

Motorola DynaTAC The prototype handheld phone used by Motorola researcher and executive Dr Cooper to make the first mobile telephone call.

1992

Nokia 1011 The first commercially available GSM phone that uses the same system we use till date.

Steve Jobs introduced the world to the first multitouch screen candybar smartphone, the iPhone.

But Google’s latest initiative, Project Ara, plans to take smartphone technology to a whole new level by aiming to create customisable phones — giving users a chance to build their ideal phone.

1996

Motorola StarTAC The very first ‘flip’ phone ever made.

1999

1999

Nokia 3210 The first phone to feature an internal antenna.

BlackBerry 850 Launch of the first blackberry.

The recent demise of the archetypal behemoth Nokia has highlighted the sheer force of the form factor in the mobile industry. Phone manufactures have either had to adapt to it or be crushed by it. Even industry giants such as the iPhone have had to keep up with the tide of new technology — it is now faster, slimmer, more efficient and more powerful than ever before — if it is to have any chance of surviving.

Google’s Project Ara, on the other hand, is taking things one step further into the future by introducing the world to a modular smartphone. The handset will allow you to upgrade it easily by swapping individual components, or modules, in a plug and play style. For example, you can decide on the camera, the processor, the memory and the battery your ideal cellphone requires. Additional components include a separate gaming controller and a detachable keyboard that can be attached to the phone, depending on the user’s needs. There is even talk about a dedicated ‘selfie camera’ to ensure that the device has mass appeal.

With the device set to release in January 2015, the possibilities for improvement are endless. Currently, by the looks of it, the smartphone will not only be bigger but also heavier. With the basic unit, called the ‘gray phone’, priced at $50 (Rs5,000 approximately), and individual modules costing more, the device is also likely to be more expensive than an equivalent pre-made smartphone.

Bringing developers on board is also crucial for such a venture — just take a look at the Nokia N9 and its unpopular MeeGo platform — but since Project Ara is a Google initiative, a betting man would put his money on the phone sporting android, or at least some version of it.

This means Project Ara will only have to concentrate on attracting hardware manufacturers as there are plenty of applications already available for users to download.

Companies like Qualcomm, whose Snapdragon processors power more than 1,300 cell phone models globally, could view this as a threat. They will not be happy with

2000

2003

2004

Samsung Uproar The first phone that was able to play mp3 files.

Nokia 7600 One of the world’s first 3G enabled phones.

Nokia 6630 The first phone that allowed complete global roaming.

The individual components of Google’s Project Ara. competition cutting into their shares, especially the lucrative market for processors. Although a company of Google’s stature is capable of playing hardball with giants like Qualcomm, that will depend entirely on how much Google is willing to put at stake for Project Ara. As things currently stand, Project Ara’s launch could be the defining moment in cell phone technology or it could very well prove to be a false dawn. Regardless of how it ends up, it has left many of us wondering, whether after seven years, the next big thing in mobile technology is finally here. T Taha Anis is a subeditor at The Express Tribune sports desk.

2004

Motorola Razr It’s availability in custom colours signalled the emergence lo of phone personalisation.

2007

2008

iPhone (first generation) The iPhone was released in 2007 introducing us to the smartphones.

HTC Dream The first android phone is released.

41 SEPTEMBER 28-OCTOBER 4 2014

FEATURE

The Amburiq mosque in an advanced state of deterioration before it was restored in 1998. PHOTOS COURTESY: AGA KHAN CULTURAL SERVICE PAKISTAN

Restored spirituality

The Amburiq mosque is a nostalgic reminder of a far more tolerant era

By ASHIQ FARAZ DESIgn By SAnoBER AHmED

44 September 28-october 4 2014

At first glance, the Amburiq mosque in Shigar bears little resemblance to a traditional mosque. The 14th century mud and wood structure which was designed by a Kashmiri architect, deviates from the conventional architectural pattern due to its visibly tall insignia. A closer inspection, however, reveals its mosque-like features that have been shaped by years of history and events that have transpired in the Shigar valley, 35km east from Skardu, in Baltistan.

Inhabited principally by the Tibetan Buddhists prior to the 16th century, Baltistan has intrigued visitors for years. Up until the 18th century, explorers and trekkers used the Shigar-Hispar to Nagar and Shigar-Braldu to Yarkand, China, routes for expeditions to the Karakoram mountains. Along with the snow-capped wonders, the Shigar town also hosts a number of architectural and archeological assets such as the Khanqah-e-Mullah, Astana of Syed Mir Yahya, the Khilingrong mosque, Shigar Fort, previously a Buddhist monastery replete with pre-Islamic pictograms, locally known as Bhodhishagran, and the Amburiq mosque.

Built by Amir Kabir Syed Ali Hamdani, the legendary saint who helped spread Islam in the region, the mosque was the first of its kind to be installed in Shigar. On his way from Yarkand in the 14th century (between 1372 -1383), Syed Ali Hamdani passed through the famous Braldu La pass into Shigar with his missionaries. In his effort to strengthen Islam in the region, he commissioned his craftsmen to build the mosque. The structure

The Amburiq mosque after it was restored to its former glory in a UnESCo award-winning restoration project undertaken by the Aga Khan Cultural Services and locals. PHOTOS COURTESY: AGA KHAN CULTURAL SERVICE PAKISTAN

The director of UnESCo visits the Amburiq mosque in Shigar, Baltistan. PHOTOS COURTESY: AGA KHAN CULTURAL SERVICE PAKISTAN

was erected with the help of locals who used techniques which were a combination of Kashmiri, Tibetan and Persian architectural patterns, symbols and motifs.

The mosque therefore shows traces of the then prominent Buddhist culture of Baltistan leaving its imprint on the budding Islamic way of life. It is a blend of cultures with its typical Kashmiri pitched roof and a Tibetan tower on top. The structure resembles a wooden shell based on cribbage columns and beams, replete with floral and bird woodcarvings on the outside. Inside is a prayer hall with a verandah to the east that serves as a lobby. After years of neglect that took a visible toll on the structure, especially after the earthquake it witnessed 90 years ago causing it to tilt westwards, the mosque was finally restored in 1998. The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) Asian-Pacific Heritage award-winning project was undertaken by the Aga Khan Cultural Service Pakistan (AKCSP) along with the local community who provided labour and knowledge of mud building techniques to restore the mosque to its original form. The yearlong project strictly followed international standards of conservation and raised awareness among locals on how to handle the mosque’s periodic maintenance work independently.

Each year hundreds of devotees and visitors make the pilgrimage to the Amburiq mosque, the only historical religious building still in use in the northern areas of Pakistan, since such traces of Buddhism in Baltistan are a rare historical treasure.

While years of plundering and vandalism have destroyed much of the region’s heritage, the Amburiq mosque still stands tall in all its glory — a nostalgic reminder of much more tolerant times.

Ashiq Faraz is freelance journalist, poet and consultant for community development projects.

September 28-october 4 2014

45

BOOK

The book is available at the Oxford University Press for Rs1,500.

Jinnah Revisited Sikander Hayat skillfully addresses the nuances of Jinnah’s leadership in his latest book

By MOHaMMad WaSeeM

46 September 28-october 4 2014

One might question why we need another book on Jinnah. But the distinct format and approach in Sikandar Hayat’s latest addition to the subject, A Charismatic Leader: Quaid-i-Azam Mohammad Ali Jinnah and the Creation of Pakistan is reason enough to revisit the subject. The general pattern of Indian history leading to Partition is rooted in an evolutionary framework of analysis of the constitutional debates. It typically draws on a relatively unbroken line of events as well as initiatives taken by the three protagonists — the British government in India, the Congress and the Muslim League — that seem to move to an inevitable endgame in the form of Partition. In contrast, the present book deals with certain deeply endemic crises that solve the grand riddle of social, cultural, political and constitutional life of Muslims in British India. The author elaborates on this theme by focusing on the ‘Muslim crisis’ spread over half a century, which provides the structural context for the emergence of Muslim nationalism. However, as electoral politics took root in India, there was a dire need for a shift in emphasis from ‘structure’ to ‘agency’. Muslim leaders at this point failed to consolidate their hold over the community and there was a dearth of leadership. Hayat makes a convincing argument about the nature and characteristic of Jinnah’s leadership beyond traditional explanations and shows how Jinnah’s role seems to be carved out by history itself when seen in the broad context of structure-agency dichotomy.

In the transition from the first to the second edition of his book on Jinnah, Hayat has expanded both theoretical and empirical findings of his research on the creator of Pakistan. Not only has he refocused his study on Jinnah’s charisma from the first edition but he has also consciously and conscientiously placed himself firmly within the discourse of Partition in general and Jinnah

in particular.

In the second edition of his book, Hayat specifically seeks to address Jinnah’s new profile based on some historians’ portrayal of him — for example Jaswant Singh, Ajeet Javeed and Saleena Karim — as a secular person par excellence. The author revisits the controversy over Ayesha Jalal’s thesis about the Pakistan demand being a bargaining counter, from which she has distanced herself in recent writings.

The author finds enough ground in Jalal and her critics’ positions to put aside this so-called ‘revisionist’ thesis. The new edition of the book explores the theme of nation-making with reference to some of the famous theorists of nationalism such as Ernest Gellner and Paul Brass, especially in the context of shaping an ethnic variety of nationalism based on Islam.

In the current edition, the author engages himself in a dialogue with more recent writers on the subject, agreeing or disagreeing with their arguments as the case may be. In the former case, he endorses the view about not mixing Partition as the finale of a long process of development of Muslim nationalism with communal violence that accompanied it, inasmuch as these were two separate phenomena. In the latter case, the author confronts a writer on the controversial role of the NWFP governor Olaf Caroe in such matters as the 1947 referendum, and later Pakistan’s entry into the Western military alliances.

The author’s willingness to expand and update his findings in the light of newer insights on Partition and Jinnah is commendable. In the matter of production of the book, one cannot overemphasise the fact that this is a high quality publication worth reading for anyone interested in the history of the subcontinent.

Mohammad Waseem is a professor of political scienceat the Lahore University of Management Sciences.

FILM

Too big for these shoes Philip Seymour’s acting genius is stifled in his final project

By VIVIan J XaVIer

Philip Seymour Hoffman’s death in February this year had thousands of fans lamenting his profound loss to the world. It ignited a discussion on the pervasiveness of addictive substances like cocaine and heroin in Hollywood. However, when media outlets found another subject that piqued their interest, it was soon realised that Hoffman’s performances were finite and that the characters that could have been inhabited by this burly monolith of acting prowess were laid to rest with him. This also holds true for the character of Mickey Scarpato, a bluecollar worker brought to life by Hoffman in God’s Pocket, a movie that failed to match his talent.

The movie starts off in a funeral home where a community and family mourn the death of 22-year-old Leon Scarpato, who has a penchant for using the ‘N’ word. This gets him killed at the construction site he works at and now a mother’s intuition and womanising reporter want to find out more. In the meanwhile, Leon’s father, Mickey Scarpato and his friend ‘Bird’ Capezio are trying to con their way to more money, guzzling down more beers and taking care of things by stealing meat and trying to sell it off. Mickey has a gambling problem and even manages to lose the $1,400 donation collected by The Hollywood bar patrons. Since, he cannot

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make the payment to the funeral home director Smilin Jack Moran. He throws Leon’s body out in the streets, and Mickey drives it around in his meat truck with the meat still in it. A stroke of luck gets Mickey the money he needs for a mahogany coffin for his son and all the while oblivious to him a romance blossoms between his wife and Richard Shellbum, the reporter. Nothing goes quite as planned, and it is easy to see why a simmering anger boils over at the end when the bar patrons give the reporter his comeuppance, after he writes an unflattering column about them.

The film’s main cast is full of character actors that always leave you wanting more.

But the weak screenplay and misguided directing leave them languishing in a purgatorial existence. Hoffman and Christina Hendricks, of Mad Men, star as Mickey and Jeanie Scarpato while John Turturro, Richard Jenkins and Eddie Marsen play Bird Carpezio, Richard Shellbum and Smilin’ Jack Moran respectively. They all do a fine job of living their characters but are weighed down by a script that is totally inconsistent and a director who is probably learning that adapting a book faithfully is sometimes incongruous to a realistic script. The story beats seem off at times and the dialogue bookish.

The feature film directorial debut of John Slattery, who played Roger Sterling in Mad Men starts off somber but tapers off to a comedy of errors. But by then it is already too late for the cast or screenplay to elevate it to more than what it is. Lance Acord, the cinematographer, does well to create a drab world that looks natural but even his genius cannot help. I watched the movie because Phillip Seymour Hoffman was starring, but I am crestfallen to see that one of his last legacies will be an entirely forgettable one. rating: Vivian J Xavier is a cinematographer. He tweets@ vivianjxavier

More for Phillip Seymour Hoffman fans Magnolia

An ensemble cast directed by Paul Thomas Anderson that explores the forces greater than chance in our ordinary lives. Hoffman plays a male nurse caring for a cancer patient who wants to get in touch with his estranged son.

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The Master

Paul Thomas Anderson’s exploration of a nascent Scientology-like cult with Hoffman as its charismatic leader is a modern masterpiece. This multilayered story, with a taut screenplay and inspired cinematography is a mustwatch for any cinephile.

3

Doubt

John Patrick Shanley's adaptation of his Pulitzer Prize winning play is probably cinema at its best.

Hoffman deftly plays a priest accused of pedophilia in a performance that leaves the audience wondering about his innocence or guilt till the end.

September 28-october 4 2014

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FILM

In The Hundred De Despite all its Foot Journey, the sstrengths, st tren re The protagonists and tthe he he H Hund u Hundred Foot Journey audience will both h iss not a perfect movie. ney. You u Itt iiss pred embark on a journey. predictable and d tth here are ttimes when it will laugh, smile, wonder and there he surrounding gs rreminds re emi minds one of Ratatouille — be immersed in the surroundings tthe th he in in-kitchen ri of a picturesque small town in rivalry between ssous-chefs. ous-chefs. Altho the mountains off France where Although the various d delicious) cculinary cu ulinary delights certainly look two beautiful (and ingle and sumptuous, the parade of cultures clash, mingle The Hundred Foot Journey is an onise. In short, colourful foods a eventually harmonise. and dinner entertaining clash of gastronomy and lywoodcontinu you will see a Hollywoodservings continually upstages cha Bollywood fusion done so well, most of the characters in the culture sking for more. film. it will leave you asking The movie depicts the initial Lasse Hallstrom’s gift for

BY SAMRA MUSLIM struggle of an Indian family that direction, is however the movie’s has moved to France after losing their watch the transformation. Om Puri plays the strongest asset. He knows how to make a matriarch (Juhi Chawla) to the fires of a local stubborn father role to the letter. While he well-crafted film and can make even the riot. It is about their belligerent yet funny is the funniest character in the movie, his most mundane things seem interesting. The competition and subsequent truce with a humour is only one part of his character and screen writing is alchemy, where humour, French lady who owns a neighbouring local not the whole package. His pride and morals drama, courage, challenge, redemption and restaurant and how she ends up nurturing push the character to even greater heights. love blend in perfectly. The soundtrack from the talent of the Indian boy who is a gifted The young aspiring chef protagonist AR Rahman is also atmospheric and fitting. cook.

Hassan Kadam is portrayed by Manish The camerawork is fantastic and the French In its soul, The Hundred-Foot Journey Dayal, who proves himself beyond his good countryside looks simply stunning through centres on introducing the audience to the looks. Unlike other pretty boys, Dayal can the lens. beliefs and lifestyles of two diverse cultures. act without going to extremes and does a Overall, The Hundred Foot Journey is While food is the main medium, the movie nice job at covering the emotional spectrum heartwarming and fascinating cinema. It is does a good job in introducing us to so many required by the character. Playing his a great movie for the entire family to watch qualities of Indian and French life. Unlike most counterpart Margaritte is Charlotte Le Bon, and has everything you need to feel good documentaries, however, it does this in a who is mousy, energetic and upbeat. And — comedy, drama and most importantly a manner that is entertaining and fun to watch. again, this is only one component of her sweet ending.

As always Helen Mirren is phenomenal. character for she too is susceptible to the less Rating: She modulates her performance from a pleasant qualities that dwell within us all. But Samra Muslim is a digital marketing professional, an nasty, uptight competitor to a likable, helpful it is the chemistry between these two that avid reader and a movie buff. friend with such subtlety that it’s a treat to helps bring the story to life.

She tweets @samramuslim

Food for the Soul

SOCIETY

Take a FIR[m] step

Registering an FIR is not as complicated as you may think

BY SIMONEEL CHAWLA DESIGN BY MOHSIN ALAM

The first step is to go to the police station nearest to where the crime or incident took place. Register your FIR there as these crimes fall under a certain jurisdiction according to the 1934 Police Rules. If you file it at another station, then your case will be transferred to the appropriate station and this may take time.

You should be handed a copy of the registered FIR free of cost. If you are not given a copy, you can demand for one.

Anyone who lodges a false charge of an offence, made with the intent to injure a person’s reputation, can be prosecuted under section 211 of the 1860 Pakistan Penal Code.

Any complaints can be made in person or in writing and mailed to the District Police Officer, Capital City Police Office, Deputy Inspector General, Provincial Police Officer or the District Public Safety and Police Complaints in your district. A private complaint can also be filed in court. T

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It is common for people in Pakistan to be wary and reluctant of filing an FIR (First Information Report), which is the first step towards prodding the justice system in the country. This is mainly because they are unsure of how to go about it. One of the most common misconceptions about the issue is that you need to be the victim of a crime to file an FIR. That, however, is not the case. You can also be a witness or simply someone who has information about an offence. Even a police officer can file an FIR if they are aware of a crime.

Here are the steps that will take you through the filing process for the police to consider your case open for investigation:

You have to make a report of the incident to the police, either orally or in writing.

You can write out your statement in Urdu or the police will write it for you.

Individuals who cannot read or write can put their left thumb print on the document.

By law, the police cannot investigate if the case is not serious in nature, if there is not enough ground to investigate or if police resources are already over-committed to investigating more serious offences. But the police must give reasons for not conducting an investigation and record these reasons as per section 157 of the 1898 Code of Criminal Procedure.

You must sign the document and the officer in charge will sign it as well. Since this is a legal document, one should be careful when giving facts.

Try to give as many details and relevant information that you feel may be important to the case.

You have the right to ask the police officer to loudly read out your oral statement and anything else that they have written down.

Never make a false complaint or provide incorrect information as you can be prosecuted under the law for misleading the police under section 182 of the 1860 Pakistan Penal Code.

Anyone who refuses to sign the registered FIR can be prosecuted under section 180 of the 1860 Pakistan Penal Code.

Simoneel Chawla is a subeditor for The Express Tribune Magazine. She tweets @simoneelc SEPTEMBER 28-OCTOBER 4 2014