CIJ Summer 2014 by Europa Star HBM

No 299 / Summer 2014

EDITOR’S

LETTER

COLOUR MATTERS

s the warm weather approches, so does a season full of colour, both in jewellery and fashion. As you can see by all the colours presented in our various Trends & Colours spreads in this issue, we feel colour to be a very important element in this industry, especially as designers find new and more creative ways to use gemstones of all kinds, qualities, and forms. One of the more remarkable gemstones that has been featured quite a bit this year by the world’s designers is paraiba tourmaline. Examples of the many ways this spectacular neon-blue gem is being used in fine jewellery can be seen in the article, Pretty in Paraiba in the Trends & Colours section. Interestingly, I find that many jewellery designers and brands are now alluding to the Pantone colours when designing and marketing their collections. This is gratifying since we were the first to make the connection with Pantone fashion colours and jewellery almost five years ago. It is a trend that is bound to continue, I am sure. And, speaking of Pantone, this issue features a special interview with Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute and President of the Eiseman Center for Color Information and Training. This colour guru offers tips for retailers on the use of colour in their displays and also explains how colour analysts arrive at their choice for colour of the year and the seasonal colours. It is definitely a must-read. As usual in our Summer issue, we showcase the Pantone colours for Fall 2014, along with assorted jewellery. Although the Fall hues have evolved somewhat from the Spring colours featured in our Winter trends guide, Pantone indicates that Radiant Orchid, the Colour of the Year, is so strong that it will continue throughout the cold winter months. That can certainly be said for jewellery made with purple gemstones of all types and tones, which have been in abundance at the recent jewellery shows. In terms of shows, it has again been a busy winter and spring fair season, and we report here on the many creative pieces seen at events in Antwerp, Bangkok, Basel, Dubai, Hong Kong, Phoenix, Tucson, and Vicenza. While most shows are international, each has its own characteristics, which makes it worth sharing with you. We are also seeing more optimism at the shows, although many exhibitors feel that the global economy has some ways to go before things get back to normal, unless we are in a new “normal.” Even though the USA remains a major market, increasing numbers of exhibitors are looking eastward to the emerging markets in Eastern Europe and Asia, even if China’s economy is reportedly slowing—a relative number since its growth rate is still higher than the rest of the world. In addition to other interviews and designer profiles, this issue features a discussion with the Director of the Couture show, Gannon Brousseau, who shares his views on the industry and on this exclusive and highly-regarded show, including its interesting activities in social media. In keeping with our focus on continuing the discussion on sustainability issues facing the jewellery industry, our Golden Globes article takes an in-depth look at a conservationist pearl farm. Lastly, I would like to thank those of you who continue to express your appreciation for CIJ Trends & Colours. Your comments are truly appreciated, and they make the job that much more pleasurable. We look forward to seeing you at the upcoming shows, and have a wonderful summer.

Cynthia Lela Rose using Pantone’s Royal Blue, a fashion colour for Fall 2014. 06

Cynthia Unninayar Editor-in-Chief

IN THIS ISSUE O N TH E C OVE R

Selection of rings in 18K pink gold and gemstones by Jochen Pohl. www.jochenpohl.com

No 299 / Summer 2014

47 49

06 18 20 22 40

E D ITO R’S LETTE R

Colour Matters

I NTE RVI EWS

Jack Kelége –“Forever in Love” Berr & Partners – The Source for Splendour Colour Matters The Couture Experience

FAS H I O N C O LO U R S

Colours Moving into Fall 2014

Golden Globes

42 44 46 48 50

FEATU R E

TR E N D S & C O LO U R S

Green Energy Pink & Purple Passions Creative Critters Beauty in Bloom Pretty in Paraiba

MAR KETPLAC E

52 56 60 64 68 72 76

VicenzaOro Winter 2014: Decidedly Positive Signs Fifth Antwerp Diamond Fair: Another Glittering Success Desert Finds Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair: Quality and More Hong Kong Gem & Jewellery Shows: Double the Power First Global Gem and Jewellery Fair: A Happy Marriage Between India and Dubai BaselWorld and More…

I N D EX

Editor: Cynthia Unninayar • Contributors: Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Barbara Wheat, Antonella Scorta, • Advertising Contacts: Nathalie Glattfelder nglattfelder@europastar.com, T +41 22 307 7832; Italy - Alessandra Arati, aarati@studioarati.it, T +39 024 851 7853; Spain - Carles Sapena csapena@europastar.es, T +34 93 112 7113; Asia - Maggie Tong, maggietong@europastar.com, T + 852 9658 1830; India - Bhupal Potdar, bhupalpotdar@gmail.com, T +91 98 2115 1035; USA - Karen Nuckols, knuckols@CIJintl.com, T +1 610 986 7285 • Graphic Design: Laurence Chatenoud, Talya Lakin, Tasha Unninayar • Managing Director: Philippe Maillard • Website: www.CIJintl.com. Published by Europastar HBM SA, 25 Route des Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland, T +41 22 307 7837; Fax: +41 22 300 3748; Email: contact@CIJintl.com Printed in Geneva by SRO-Kundig • Copyright 2013 by Europa Star • www.europastar.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ Trends & Colours. 08

Mix Metal: Argentium Silver and Rose Gold The Perfect Match: Rose Gold and Morganite

Luxury Salon #502 | Toll-free: 877-77-MAKUR | makurdesigns.com

PROFILE

SERAFINO CONSOLI: INNOVATION ITALIAN STYLE Every now and then, a company comes up with something that is truly innovative. When in the hands of Serafino Consoli and its traditional Made in Italy fine jewellery, the result evokes a spontaneous That’s Wow.

nnovation, imagination, and ingenuity combine with traditional Italian craftsmanship and expertise to create original and surprising pieces of jewellery. In its latest collection, Serafino Consoli has created a new generation of jewellery, a revolution in the way we think about it. With a simple touch, the brand’s 18K gold and diamond creations transform themselves, adapting to the whims of their wearer. Rings become bracelets, necklaces, and earrings, bringing to life the slogan, One Size Fits All.

Eight years of experimentation To breathe life into the new That’s Wow collection, Serafino Consoli’s expert goldsmiths spent eight years of testing, trials, and research to finally develop the patented technology required

Ring becomes bracelet

Multisize ring

to create this remarkable line of fine jewellery. While the pieces may appear simple and easy to transform, the manufacturing process is quite complicated, requiring thousands of welding spots and more than a hundred components. Fine Jewels Forever Adaptable and flexible, Serafino Consoli’s jewels can be shaped according to the wishes of their wearer, whether

she wants to wear a ring one day or a bracelet the next. These precious pieces are also part of a family’s heritage, and can be handed down from generation to generation. With their patented design, the rings can be adapted to a child’s finger as readily as to those of an adult.

THE HEADQUARTERS COMBINING ART & DESIGN For over 50 years, Serafino Consoli has been active in the jewellery and clockmaking world. In 2005, the brand began innovating in its own right. And, innovation is seen not only in design and production, but is apparent throughout the entire company, as in the futuristic architecture of the brand’s headquarters near Milan. (serafinoconsoli.com)

One size fits all

“That’s wow” collection | Five row multi-size ring, white gold, full circle of diamonds Ct diamonds: 5,60 | Gr: 22 | No. of components: 112 | No. of noble welds: 4000

serafinoconsoli.com

Ø 0 >> 13

PROFILE

THE GOLDEN BUCKLE UNIQUE BELTS FOR THE WRIST

izzotto Gioielli returns with exclusive designs from its latest collection, Belt Buckle, skillfully handcrafted in the true nature of Made in Italy. The collection includes exquisite buckle bracelets, rings and earrings in range of shapes and colors, all beautifully finished with shimmering elegance. Adding to their beauty is a luxurious 18K gold buckle set with diamonds that dazzles throughout the day.

Sophisticated yet fun, the Belt Buckle collection by Bizzotto Gioielli is a unique and luxurious way to grace every womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wrist.

COUTURE LAS VEGAS 2014 LAFITE BALLROOM BOOTH 167

JOCHENPOHL.COM

I N T E RV IE W

JACK KELÉGE –“FOREVER IN LOVE” Master Jeweller, Jack Kelége has led the way for timeless innovation. Now, his new marketing campaign, “Forever In Love,” is just that—a powerful new co-branding promotional campaign that retailers will “forever love”—for endless reasons. Not the least of which is its ability to generate far-reaching momentum. From robust mainstream PR and Advertising to sophisticated customizable print collateral, seasonal videos, dynamic web content, and engaging social media, everything is designed to promote the retailer’s brand and help them drive sales. Interview conducted by Diana S. Zimmerman

CIJTC: “Forever in Love” is an intriguing name for a co-branding/marketing campaign. What is the inspiration behind it? Jack Kelége: Our goal is to create a series of strategic marketing initiatives that will help our retail partners attract and engage customers in ways that are fresh, innovative, and on-going. We wanted to design a campaign that enables them to share the deep emotion and passion that comes from wearing Jack Kelége jewellery. So many people tell us that our jewels create memories that last forever, which is why we decided to incorporate these feelings into the campaign and name it “Forever in Love.” CIJTC: What does the co-branding portion of “Forever in Love” consist of ? Jack Kelége: “Forever In Love” is all about helping our retailers promote their own brands, as well as the Jack Kelége brand—in every way possible. Which is why we brought in an award-winning lifestyle photographer to shoot spectacular new imagery for the print, media, and video portions of the campaign. This incredible photography will be shared with our retail partners, as well as used to create customizable print collateral, videos, web content, and social media marketing materials. Everything is strategically designed to promote the Jack Kelége brand with our retailers’ own brands and locations in ways that captivate the senses. CIJTC: How will the message reach your retailers’ customers? Jack Kelége: We are taking a multi-tiered approach. First of all, the content that we are creating is dynamic and designed to be used on our retailers’ web and social media sites, as well as in direct mail, advertising, and print campaigns. We are also creating eye-catching seasonal videos to further promote our retailers’ brands that can be posted on their sites and sent out as eBlasts. CIJTC: How are you promoting the Jack Kelége brand to the consumer market? Jack Kelége: We are running national print ads in luxury publications and social media campaigns with our retailers to further our brand awareness with the public. The ads are designed to drive new customers to our retail partners. Additionally, we are working with a leading jewellery publicist to get our name in front of select mainstream luxury magazine editors across the country. CIJTC: In what way will you help your retailers showcase your designs to their customers? Jack Kelége: Each of our retailers will receive individual product shots of every piece of our jewellery that they have in their inventory. The product shots are formatted specifically for their web and social media sites. CIJTC: When does the campaign launch and how long will it run? Jack Kelége: We will be rolling out the “Forever in Love” Retailer Co-Branding campaign at the Luxury/JCK shows, and it will continue into next year. Everything about it is created to drive customers, both new and old, to our retailer partners’ stores. CIJTC: What do retailers need to do to participate? Jack Kelége: See us at Luxury, or contact us at www.jackkelege.com. 18

P R OF I LE

BERR & PARTNERS – THE SOURCE FOR SPLENDOUR Since 1986, Geneva-based Berr & Partners has been one of the industry’s most trusted sources for many of the world’s most breathtakingly beautiful coloured gemstones. The search for these stones has taken internationally renowned gemmologists, Thomas and Elke Berr, to some of the most remote corners of the globe. By Diana S. Zimmerman

ith a passion for rare beauty and the remarkable talent to find it, Thomas and Elke Berr are not only recognized the world over for their ability to unearth extraordinary stones, but for timeless jewellery that is destined to become tomorrow’s trends. Designed by Elke and marketed under the Elke Berr brand, these pieces are sold in limited collections through the world’s most prestigious retailers, who also come to Elke for exceptionally precious stones and customwork for their special customers. Other clients include an increasing number of individuals who ask Elke to find a particular stone, and then have her design and craft a unique piece around it.

B&P’s exotic one-of-a-kind gems can range from unheated rubies and sapphires from Burma, Kashmir, and Ceylon to fiery majestic agate opals from the heart of Africa. Elke also works with lesser known gems such as spinels, in their lovely range of colours, and the dazzling neon-blue Paraiba tourmalines. Lovers of coloured gems not only appreciate Elke and Thomas’ talent for sourcing rare stones, but also Elke’s ability to capture the essence of their beauty in fine jewellery.

Elke Berr

Some examples of her custom-made pieces include a rare 33.9-carat unheated Burmese star-ruby set in gold with black and white diamonds—a true masterpiece—as well as a 4.65-carat royal blue unheated Burmese sapphire ring in the ICY collection and a 29.66-carat agate opal ring from the African Flame collection.

A rutilated 15.69-carat Paraiba tourmaline set in gold with diamonds is also a showstopper, as is a splendid 7.14-carat pink spinel set in gold with white diamonds. Having won critical acclaim from both the press and various trade associations, B&P is recognized internationally for its unwavering ethical standards and high-degree of service. In 2005, the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) recognized Elke for her outstanding efforts as a longterm and valued ambassador of the global gem trade. B&P’s ethics extend also to helping people in some of the poorest mining areas of the world. One such endeavour is a children’s orphanage in Mogok, Myanmar (Burma) that Thomas and Elke help support. Thanks

to B&P’s efforts, along with other gem dealers, children are raised by volunteer “mothers” and can attend school for a basic education. When asked about the inspiration for her creations, she answers that it comes from the exploration of mining sites and their raw materials as well as a love of all things natural. For example, the invigorating freshness of snow-capped peaks, majestic glaciers, delicate icicles, and frozen shimmering blue water inspired her new ICY collection. Then, she turns up the heat with this season’s African Flame line as she captures the mysterious lustre of agate opal combined with brilliant yellow sapphires, tsavorites, and diamonds.

Because of their knowledge of antique jewellery, Elke and Thomas are also in demand with investors, banks, and insurance companies who rely on their expertise in “art banking.” Their opinion is also sought for highvalue gemstones as investment vehicles. Berr & Partners is the source for gemstone splendour, and Elke Berr takes splendour to new heights with each captivating piece of jewellery she creates. (www.elkeberr.com)

New Quatrefoil and Turquoise Collection In Sterling Silver

JCK Las Vegas Design Center - #S10916

JA New York Summer Show Inner Circle - #3211

I N T E RV IE W

COLOUR MATTERS Colour is important on many levels. It enables us to create beauty and express our personal feelings and tastes. For insight into the world of colour as it relates to fashion and jewellery, we spoke with international colour guru, Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute and President of the Eiseman Center for Color Information and Training. An expert on colour psychology, author of nine books, and in demand as a speaker and trainer, Eiseman helps companies make the best and most educated choice of colour for product development, brand imaging, and interior/exterior design. Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar

CIJTC: Since we started using the Pantone colour fashion sketches five years ago as a part of our trends pages in CIJ Trends & Colours, the response has been overwhelming. Our readers—retailers, designers, and consumers—say they love the colourful sketches combined with the colourful jewellery. Why is colour so appealing, so important? Leatrice Eiseman: Colour is a catalyst for feeling, about how we look, what we wear, how we decorate our home or office, and what we plant in our garden. The right colours stimulate or relax our senses, release happy memories, and reflect how we feel about ourselves and others. Understanding colour is important to any industry whose products involve colour, which means, of course, fashion and jewellery. It is also important to understand the power that colour wields at every level of communication—in corporate/brand identification, packaging, signage, advertising, and point of purchase.

Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute.

CIJTC: How can retailers use colour when interacting with clients? LE: Allowing customers to play with colours affords a really creative opportunity. If they are considering a colourful piece, they should be made to feel included in the decision-making process as opposed to a salesperson telling them what colours would look good on them or would go well with other colours. For example, the salesperson might ask,“how do these colours appeal to you?” or “let’s look at this combination of tones with your eye colour, skin colour, hair colour, and see how flattering this would be.” It’s important to bring the client into the conversation. Most people in jewellery are well aware of this, but we are all seeking the magic bullet, which is getting the customer involved in the discussion. CIJTC: In a retailer’s displays, would you separate coloured stone pieces or put them together? LE: It depends on how much space there is. I have noticed that, generally, jewellery is separated by colour family and that is a smart thing to do because people tend to gravitate to a particular colour. Having said that, however, it provides a bit of fascination to a grouping of colours to add a few loose stones or single pieces of jewellery to make the display more interesting. For example, a smattering of blue-greens or yellow-greens mixed in with a group of ruby reds will capture the consumer’s eye. This freshens up the display. Because of the emotional appeal of jewellery, retailers don’t need to start from zero to promote the idea of colour, but when they add some additional knowledge about its use, I think you have a winning combination. CIJTC: What advice would you offer to designers who want to introduce mixtures or combinations of colour into their pieces? LE: Jewellery designers already have an intrinsic ability and an eye for colour so my advice is: be more adventurous. Try combinations other than what the rules say about the colour wheel. I never use the word rule when it comes to colour. There are always ways to make combinations work because so much of it depends on structure, form, and faceting. When I go to fashion meetings, one of the first things designers do is head to the local museum since they are wonderful repositories of textiles from another time and era, with different types of colour combinations. You can use the colour wheel, but instead of choosing the obvious complementary colours, tweak them a bit. This is what artistry is all about. CIJTC: Increasingly more jewellery designers and brands are now naming Pantone colours as the colour choice for some of their collections. For example, we are seeing Radiant Orchid evoked in many purple gemstone lines. How important is colour when it comes to jewellery? LE: Jewellery and colour go hand-in-hand, unless it is a metallic. Colour is intrinsically the reason people buy jewellery, and it is a purchase that is largely emotional. People choose a colour because they respond to it, because it tugs at them. But at the same time, if consumers are reading that Radiant Orchid is the Colour of the Year, there is a spark of recognition. They may say, “oh, that is a colour I like” or “that is a colour I have not tried, but it is beautiful; maybe I should try it.” The emotional impact is helped along by what they are reading and seeing. I remember when brown diamonds came in so strongly. They captured my attention because they fell right into what I called the Starbucks phenomenon, in other words, how the concept of brown changed so drastically because of the influx of coffee, chocolates, and lattes, and then diamonds. CIJTC: Speaking of the Pantone colours, how are the colour trends for its fashion reports determined? LE: There are two slightly different processes, depending on whether it is the Colour of the Year or colours of the season. For the Colour of the Year, for example, Radiant Orchid, we determine it well in advance of the year. We travel the world and look for increased usage of a particular colour or family of colours, in all domains, including fashion, film, technology, and art. We also consider the overall mood of the nation and 22

the world. What colour symbolizes this general mood? We then take all of these clues and place them next to each other. If we see the same colour in many areas, then we have found the Colour of the Year. CIJTC: And the seasonal trends, as in Pantone’s designer sketches? LE: For the colours of the season, it is more straightforward. We ask designers to submit illustrations of the colours they will use in the upcoming seasonal shows along with their reasoning and what has influenced them. We put this information into a computer and look at the percentages of designers tending towards a particular colour direction. Based on what the designers are actually using, we then come up with our list of the top ten colours. This all happens approximately six to eight months ahead of the seasonal fashion shows. CIJTC: Many trends seem to last seven to ten years. For example, musical hits surge and then fade. How long do colour trends last? LE: That would have been an easy question to answer ten or fifteen years ago. Colours came in and either they captured people’s attention or they did not. When I saw them in the trashcans at Target, I knew they were on their way out. Today, it is just the opposite. We are seeing longer life spans for trends, for many reasons, not the least of which is the economy. When people buy something and are invested in it, they are less likely to say, “I’m tired of it, out it goes.” They are holding onto what they have for longer periods of time. Consumers have a different mindset today. Often we hear, “I really like this colour. It speaks to me. I get comments when I wear it” or “I just love the colour of the ring on my finger.” Even if they hear that a colour is “out,” people are not so influenced by this anymore and tend to keep what they like. CIJTC: What are some examples of the longevity of colours that were considered “out?” LE: The best examples are the yellow-greens and the oranges, which were “in” and “out” very quickly. On the consumer word-association surveys that we conduct, the oranges and yellow-greens were way down at the bottom. People did not respond well to them. There was a time when orange was all about fast food, but there has been a big turnaround. Today, people see what Hermès has done with orange, and it has become aspirational. Even though you still see articles stating that trends pass quickly, I don’t agree. There is evidence of this in fashion where designers continue to use yellow-greens and orange even though Tangerine Tango was Colour of the Year three years ago. CIJTC: Might we ask, then, why bother with trends at all? LE: What trends do today is help encourage people to create combinations that are different from what they had thought of before. Take Tangerine Tango, for example, if you bought an orange outfit several years ago and still love the colour, you will keep it and look for ways to combine it with perhaps teal or emerald green. This type of thing is very intriguing to consumers as well as fashion designers, who might consider creating patterns or prints using combinations of colours that consumers still like. This captures people’s attention. That wonderful orange cashmere sweater from three years ago can be dressed up with a teal scarf or emerald brooch for a fresh look. All colours still matter. 23

C O L O U R

TR E N D S

COLOURS MOVING INTO FALL 2014

Alice K

In the winter edition of CIJ Trends & Colours, we talked about the top ten trends in fine jewellery for 2014 as well as the top ten fashion colours for Spring 2014 as forecast by the Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2014. Here, we continue with a look at this year’s pieces that closely align with Pantone’s main fashion colour directions for Fall 2014, with its diverse colour palette that delves into the beauty of the past, but with the spirit of the present. “This is a season of untypical colors—more reflective of the imagination and ingenuity, which makes for an artful collection of colors and combinations not bound by the usual hues for fall,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®. “There is a feminine mystique that is reflect reflect-ed throughout the palette, inspired by the increasing need for women everywhere to create an individual imprint.” By Cynthia Unninayar

Bavna Gavello

Lauren K Jane Taylor

Jewellery Theatre

Nanette Lepore using Pantone Radiant Orchid. The Colour of the Year, it is a cap captivating and adaptable purple shade, that enchants the complete colour spectrum.

Jack Kelege

Lela Rose using Pantone Royal Blue. An evocative and dignified colour, it provides more complexity and excitement than the average navy, while still remaining versatile.

Colormasters

Jochen Pohl

Fashion sketches and colours, courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2014 24

Bizzotto

C O L O U R

TR E N D S

COLOURS MOVING INTO FALL 2014 J Jewels

Leaderline

Carboneria

Paula Crevoshay

Nanis Daniel Espinosa

Christian Siriano using Pantone Cypress. A majestic and powerful green, this shade has a towering presence and serves as a stunning perennial.

Rebecca

Ti Sento

SAUNDER by Emily Saunders using Pantone Cognac. This classy and cultured brown takes a typical autumnal color to a sumptuous realm, making the shade unexpectedly ideal for evening wear.

Fashion sketches and colours, courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2014 26

C O L O U R

TR E N D S

COLOURS MOVING INTO FALL 2014 Valente Milano

Oscar Heyman Giovanni Ferraris Garavelli

Stephen Webster

Brumani Nouvelle Bague

Fope

Rosato

Lafonn Yoana Baraschi using Pantone Aurora Red. This sophisticated shade of red adds verve and spark to any combination.

Mousson Atelier

Bibhu Mohapatra using Pantone Misted Yellow. Adding a ray of sunlight and warmth, this optimistic shade of yellow alludes to the promise of spring to come.

Fashion sketches and colours, courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2014 28

C O L O U R

TR E N D S

COLOURS MOVING INTO FALL 2014 Eichorn

Thistle & Bee

Amrapali

Yael Sonia

MorphĂŠe

Vianna Brasil Anzie

Sharart

Gordon Aatlo

Philippa Galasso using Pantone Sangria. This exotic red evokes a sense of glamorous adventures and faraway destinations.

Rebecca Minkoff using Pantone Bright Cobalt. With its slightly green undertone, it offers a subtle twist on the traditional cobalt blue, which unifies this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blues.

Fashion sketches and colours, courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2014 30

Galatea

C O L O U R

TR E N D S

COLOURS MOVING INTO FALL 2014 Denise James

Metalsmiths Sterling

Isabelle Langlois

Green G

E&V Jewellery

Leaderline Mattioli

Pamela Huizenga

Noon by Noor using Pantone Mauve Mist. This romantic and elegant purple shade reminds us of the deco era and stimulates a sense of femininity and empowerment.

Trina Turk using Pantone Aluminum. This futuristic stainless steel shade serves as a complex neutral.

Fashion sketches and colours, courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2014 32

F E AT U R E

A RTI C L E

GOLDEN GLOBES The Philippine archipelago is home to the highest biodiversity of marine organisms on the planet. The nation’s ocean habitats are also listed as the most threatened in the world. One company, Jewelmer, is taking great strides to reverse this trend, while cultivating some of the world’s most fascinating South Sea golden pearls. A look inside an environmentalist pearl farm… By Cynthia Unninayar

hen I first had the opportunity, seven years ago, to visit Jewelmer’s pearl farms on Palawan in the Philippines, everything was very impressive, from the incredibly complicated process of cultivating the pearls to the dedication of the company’s co-founders and its employees to protect the natural surroundings. On a return visit last July, I was able to get an update on this amazing company, whose story is one of passion, perseverance, challenges, and golden rewards.

The Beginnings Some 37 years ago, a Frenchman named Jacques Branellec arrived in the Philippines. A pilot by training, he was no stranger to pearls, having pioneered the development of the black pearl culture in Tahiti. “I was looking for a new place for a pearl farm and the Philippines seemed promising,” he says. [Note: The compelling story of Jacques Branellec’s extraordinary and often turbulent journey from the rocky coasts of Brittany to the sandy shores of Palawan can be found in his autobiography, The Ultimate Orient – The Quest for the Perfect Pearl. The book was reviewed in our Winter 2014 edition of CIJ Trends & Colours, and I highly recommend it to anyone interested in human adventure and the cultivation of pearls.] Shortly after his arrival in the Philippines, Branellec met Manuel Cojuangco, a Filipino businessman and entrepreneur. “I was in charge of a coconut hybridization program on a remote island in Palawan,” reminisces Cojuangco. “I have always loved the sea, wondering what else could be done in this pristine environment, and pearls came to mind.” After their serendipitous meeting, the two men did an inspection dive, followed by a feasibility study, with results so promising that together they created Jewelmer, now one of the largest pearl producers in the world. 34

Jewelmer’s co-founders, Manuel Cojuangco (left), President, and Jacques Branellec, Managing Director, in front of one of Jewelmer’s helicopters, which are the main forms of transportation to the remote islands where the pearl farms are located. Jacques is also a pilot and often flies employees and guests to the farms.

Path to the Perfect Pearl Getting to this point, however, took nearly 20 years. At first, the company purchased wild oysters from the southernmost tip of the archipelago. Unable to keep up with the growing demand for pearls, and worried about depleting the natural populations, the two men decided to try breeding oysters in hatcheries. A team of experienced marine biologists was brought in to work with the gold-lipped Pinctada maxima, a fragile mollusc that produces white to pale gold pearls.

Fragile baby oysters require constant care, then are released into their natural habitat at two months old.

The head biologist, Doris, who has been with Jewelmer more than 25 years, explains, “After much trial and error, we finally succeeded in reproducing the oysters in vitro, but then had to figure out the exact amount and type of food that they required, as well as the critical times to feed. It took us ten years to perfect the method and the recipes.” Starting with fertilization to the time the baby oyster or spat is released into the natural habitat, it stays in the laboratory for two months. From the initial swimming larval stage, it transforms into the crawling phase at about 19 days with the growth of a foot that can adhere to a solid substrate. At this point, the oyster measures about 300 microns. After 31 days, the shell forms, and after another month, the spat is transferred to the sea environment. To avoid contaminating the vulnerable tiny oysters, the lab maintains very stringent conditions of cleanliness, both for breeding and growing the plankton. The young oysters need constant care, with precise feeding schedules and regular changes of diet before they are released into their natural habitat to continue growing.

Aerial view of the manta ray-shaped island in Palawan that is home to one of Jewelmer’s largest pearl farms, seen on the left side of the small island. The buoys, which mark the lines supporting the baskets with the oysters, can be seen as little dots in the right foreground and in the middle left of the picture.

“In the beginning, the pearls were white, but we wanted something unique to the Philippines, a darker gold tone,” Doris continues, explaining that another ten years were required to master the complicated process of producing the desired unique golden colour.

The Grafting Process After two to three years in the ocean environment, the oysters are ready for grafting. For this process, the technician needs a spherical nucleus, carved from a freshwater mussel, and a piece of living mantle, taken from a donor oyster, which contains the pigmentation coding for the pearl’s colour. The skilled grafter makes a small incision in the gonad, and carefully injects the nucleus and soft mantle tissue. The soft tissue grows around the hard sphere, forming a membrane or pearl sac, which forms aragonite crystals (calcium carbonate) on the surface of the nucleus.

In Pinctada maxima, the crystals are laid down like bricks in a wall, cemented together by a protein glue. For the pearl to be perfectly round, the bricks must be arranged in perfect symmetry with smooth and even surfaces. The uniqueness of Jewelmer’s golden pearls

Head marine biologist, Doris, points out the “Pedigree” of each oyster that is individually tracked from birth, as part of ongoing research in selective breeding in order to obtain the highest quality golden pearls possible. Ten years of research were needed to perfect the recipes for nourishing the baby oysters or spat. These vats contain various types of plankton used to feed the spat. To avoid any contamination, the laboratory maintains stringent conditions of cleanliness. 35

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comes from the high density of the alternating layers of the protein glue and the calcium carbonate, which produces a dense thick layer of nacre, giving it a higher orient. After grafting, the oysters are labelled and numbered before being placed in baskets and returned to the sea. The baskets are rotated regularly to optimize pearl development. After three months, the oysters are sent through a “soft X-ray machine” to see if the pearl is growing. If the pearl has not taken in some oysters, they are removed, while the others are placed in the water for another two to three years. Each month, they are cleaned to remove mud and organic material. At extraction time, the same technician who made the graft generally performs the operation. About 40 to 50 percent of oysters can be re-grafted. Once the pearls are collected, they undergo a first sorting in the farm’s laboratory, where each numbered pearl is examined and analyzed. These detailed records serve to improve techniques in order to obtain a more perfect yield. The pearls are then sent to Jewelmer’s headquarters in Manila for further sorting. Each pearl is examined, classified, and priced based on its size, shape, smoothness, and lustre. The colour and orient of Jewelmer’s pearls are what make them so unique. A glow is refracted from their centre to the surface through the many layers of nacre. “The perfect golden pearl can only be created when there is perfect equilibrium between state-of-the-art scientific knowledge on one hand, and intuitive reverence for natural life on the other,” muses Branellec.

After two to three years, the technician who made the initial graft removes the pearl. Once they are collected, the pearls will be examined and pre-sorted in the lab. During our stop at one of the newer farms, Branellec examines pearls right after extraction. After analysis at the main lab, they will go to Jewelmer’s headquarters in Manila for final sorting and cataloguing. 36

Suspended in baskets in the sea, oysters are regularly cleaned to keep them healthy. Many species of tropical fish and other sea creatures thrive in the clean nutrient-rich water of the farms.

People Power The ideal sites for raising oysters are in remote pristine areas, which are not necessarily ideal locations for the farms’ employees. “As a result, we not only had to build a functioning organization, but also a viable community in every sense of the term,” says Cojuangco. “With attractive salaries and job security, we are able to attract talented workers,” adds Branellec. “We have built a team, a family of loyal people who are passionate, who consider this a career, not just a job. We have less than five-percent turnover, and most people have been with us more than twenty years. Now, we are employing the second generation.” “Our goal has been to create high-quality living conditions, making each island a bit like a resort, with a restaurant, sports and religious activities, and good working conditions,” continues Branellec. Employee loyalty was tested in December 1998 and then again in 2006 when devastating typhoons hit the farms,

destroying most of the buildings and lines. All of the employees pitched in, and rebuilt the facility in a bit over a month. In November 2013, typhoon Haiyan hit the Philippines, again wreaking havoc on some of the pearl farms, but once more the employees pulled together to repair the damage. Human Hazards Typhoons are not the only threat to the pearl farms. Man-made dangers are much more hazardous. “A pearl farm needs a healthy sea, but what we are witnessing is an increase in unhealthy activities that are damaging the oceans. You cannot raise pearls and be indifferent to the philosophy of protecting the environment,” affirms Branellec. Among the greatest dangers is illegal fishing involving cyanide and dynamite. In cyanide fishing, liquid cyanide is dropped or blown under the water. It stuns the fish, which are scooped up in nets. The fish are then sold to restaurants all over Asia, which display them in aquariums for customers to pick out their next meal. One teaspoon of cyanide dropped into the water will kill all marine organisms, including the coral, over an area of 1,000 square meters. Even diluted, its toxicity will persist for some 20 years. [Note: When in Hong Kong a few years ago, I heard colleagues talking about someone who had died from cyanide after eating fish in a restaurant. Something to keep in mind.] In the equally reprehensible dynamite fishing, sticks of explosive are thrown into the water, killing the target fish as well as all fauna in the area. The fish that rise to the surface are scooped up, while the others sink. The explosions produce craters of 10 to 20 square meters on the sea floor, and the reef

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can take decades to recover. “The sound of the explosions also deafens the birds, marine mammals, fish, and other animals, thus causing disorientation, disease, and death. These cruel blasts can even cause whales to ground themselves,” explains Branellec. And, during my visit, it was unfortunately not uncommon to hear explosions in the surrounding areas. Both cyanide and dynamite fishing result in reduced stocks of fish for local communities that depend on them, thus increasing the spiral of poverty. Even though against the law, it seems that enforcement is very difficult. Sedimentation is another threat to coral, and indirectly to pearl culture, and results from the unlawful slash-and-burn method used for cultivating rice in the mountains. After land is cleared by burning the hillsides, the soil erodes and ends up in the ocean, where it upsets the natural balance in the coastal ecosystem, leading to its ultimate destruction. This desertification of the land then makes it unusable for other crops. Sustainable Solutions While the pearl farms serve as de facto sanctuaries for marine life, the Jewelmer team is also helping to improve the lives of people in the neighbouring communities. “Many live a hand-to-mouth existence, and thus turn to slash-and-burn farming, dynamite, and cyanide fishing,” says Cojuangco. “We are trying to educate them about the long-term consequences of their actions so that their own future can be brighter. Part of this education is providing eco-friendly alternatives for their livelihood.” The biggest change since my last visit to Palawan, apart from the creation of more farms and hatcheries, was the Save Palawan Seas Foundation (SPSF) infrastructure and model organic farm, which have been set up to serve the local communities. Among its specific projects are classes about organic farming, seaweed cultivation (the demand from large buyers currently outstrips supply), fish farming in sea pens, sea cucumber farming, and raising bees. “The results have been nothing short of spectacular! We have people lining up for this type of education,” adds Branellec. In addition to feeding themselves, some have started small businesses to sell products to other communities and the tourist resorts in the area. Other SPSF programs include creating art objects and jewellery 38

As we flew over islands on the way to Palawan, we could see, through the clouds, examples of erosion on the hillsides, resulting in silt entering the ocean. This desertification of the land was caused by illegal slash-and-burn methods of farming. In other areas, we could see forests being burned. Jewelmer’s SPSF provides ecofriendly alternatives and education about the long-term consequences of these actions.

from natural and no-cost items, such as driftwood, shells, and seeds, which can be sold to tourists visiting the resorts in Palawan. On the day we helicoptered to the Flower Island resort, where we stayed during our visit to the pearl farms, one of my fellow passengers was Tina Morados, the owner of Pamora, an organic chicken farm. Her entourage included 500 tiny chicks destined for the SPSF facility, to serve as examples for organic chicken farming. At the SPSF, the chicks were set free in a pen for a few weeks until they were large enough to be transferred to a larger enclosure. Classes were offered to the local population on how to care for them as a healthier alternative to the inhumane and unhealthy methods of factory farming.

Jacques Branellec and Tina Morados see to the loading of 500 chicks, in the cardboard cartons, being flown to the SPSF’s organic farm to serve as examples in environmentally-friendly and healthy farming methods.

Jewelmer Joaillerie A logical extension of its pearl business, Jewelmer established the jewellery co-brand, Jewelmer Joaillerie, in 2011. Its collections of fine jewellery are derived from the classic French tradition of high jewellery combined with genuine Filipino sensibilities and talent. From inspiration to perfection, each South Sea pearl is set in 18K gold and embellished with the finest diamonds and precious gemstones, evoking French elegance combined with Asian artistry. Clearly, Jewelmer represents a new and modern breed of conservationist pearl farmers. When wearing its fine jewellery, women can be assured that their pearls are not only beautiful, but that they are helping protect the environment. All this, thanks to these little golden globes. (jewelmer.com)

AW E

I N S P I R I N G C R E AT I O N S . C R E AT E D I N I N D I A .

Visit

India Pavilion at Bayside Level ,

JCK Show 2014, Las Vegas 30th May – 2nd June

VISIT INDIA PAVILION AT: 10-13 May 2014, Vicenzaoro Spring 2014 (Vicenza, Italy) | 27-29 July 2014, JA Show, New York 2014*** (New York, USA) | 6-10 September 2014, VicenzaOro Fall 2014 (Vicenza, Italy) | September 2014 Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair 2014 (Bangkok, Thailand) | 18-22 November 2014, Jewellery Arabia 2014 (Manama, Bahrain). For further details contact: The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council

Unit No. G2-A, Trade Centre, Bandra-Kurla Complex, Bandra - East, Mumbai - 400 051 • Tel: +91-22 4354 1800 • Fax: +91-22 2652 4769 • Website: www.gjepc.org

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THE COUTURE EXPERIENCE For the past 18 years, the by-invitation-only COUTURE show has served the market needs of the high-end branded jewellery and watch sectors. The first show of its kind, it caters to an elite community of renowned brands, emerging designers, and fine retailers from around the world. In 2012, Gannon Brousseau was named Show Director. With a great deal of experience in the retail sector, including jewellery, gifts, art, fashion, and furniture, he brings enthusiasm and passion to this special community. CIJ Trends & Colours caught up with this very busy man in Basel to learn about his plans for this exclusive show. Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar

CIJTC: Last year, Couture was sold by Nielsen to the private equity firm, ONEX, and is now under the umbrella of its Emerald Expositions unit, a leading organizer of B2B and B2C events. What does this mean for the show? Gannon Brousseau: The change in ownership simply means that we are now operating on our own, rather than as a part of Nielsen. This is a fantastic opportunity for Couture, which is the Crown Jewel of the group. CIJTC: Besides the exclusivity of Couture, what are some of the benefits it offers for exhibitors and retailers? GB: Couture caters to a very specific audience and our goal is to provide the best atmosphere possible for our customers to do business in. We want to ensure that everyone is able to work in an elegant and proper setting where they don’t have to focus on anything but conducting business.

Gannon Brousseau, Couture Show Director.

CIJTC: As the industry changes, how do you see Couture evolving over the next five years? GB: I am very excited about the future of this industry and the future of Couture. I’ve long embraced the philosophy that it is important to manage not just where the business is now but where it is going to be. Rather than get too specific, I will say this—if Couture looks and feels the same in five years as it does today, we have done something wrong. We will always act as a community and, as a community, we will evolve together to continue to make this event and the industry the best in the world. CIJTC: What are some of the new initiatives planned for the upcoming show? GB: In addition to our incredible domestic retailers, we are focusing on bringing international and specialty retailers to Couture. Whenever we travel, which we do a lot, we meet with brands and retailers alike and we encourage both groups to attend Couture. We are confident that if they attend the show once, they will fall in love and make it a must-attend event on their calendar each year. CIJTC: Do you have plans for any international events? GB: We have had a small Couture pavilion at Inhorgenta in Munich for the last two years. Inhorgenta is a very well organized show, with good potential. We will be there again next year. But as far as creating an international Couture show, the answer is no, not now. In fact, I believe there are too many shows at the moment and would be happy to see some consolidation rather than new show launches. So, at the moment, we are focused on making Couture America the best show in the world. CIJTC: What kind of tech-savvy or social media endeavours is Couture involved in? GB: Technology is an important part of every business and it is becoming increasingly important in our industry. The simple fact is, if you are not embracing technology and are not engaging in social media, this industry and your customers will pass you by. Social media offers every brand the ability to communicate with their current customers, and provides equal opportunity to reach new customers. But just because social media is free it doesn’t excuse brands from needing a strategy. They have to have a unique voice; a specific point of view. At Couture, we have heavily embraced social media. Along with our constant Facebook and Twitter activity and our blog (Couture Musings), we have been very active on Instagram. Back in October we launched #CoutureTakeOver with Irene Neuwirth. The idea behind #CoutureTakeOver is to allow all of us to live vicariously through different members of our community. Each month, we lend our account for two or three days to a different member of our community—designers, retailers, editors, stylists, and celebrities. During those days, the person posts on our account giving us all a glimpse of what it would be like to live a day in their shoes. It’s been an incredibly rewarding concept that has been very well embraced by our community. Be sure to follow us @by_couture. 40

CIJTC: At the show, and elsewhere, it is not uncommon for buyers to label themselves as a Couture retailer. People seem to be very loyal to the show… GB: Yes, and we love that. The beauty of Couture is that it is a community, and a very special one at that. And as show management, it is our job to ensure the community we serve is happy with the product. We continually seek feedback to improve the show experience for everyone. To this end, we have advisory councils, made up of retailers and exhibitors that provide great insights for our event. CIJTC: One of the most popular parts of the show is the Design Atelier. Will this remain intact? GB: Absolutely, Design Atelier is an essential part of the Couture make up. Our goal at Couture is to provide the best to our customers and to showcase new talent. And Design Atelier is the perfect place for our retailers to see new talent. When we travel the world, we look for the undiscovered and work with them on ways to introduce them to the American market. CIJTC: Would you ever consider moving the show out of Las Vegas? GB: No, I couldn’t be happier with our partnership with the Wynn. Mr. Wynn is a true visionary and in my opinion, no one comes close to delivering a product like he does. He understands what true luxury is and provides a customer experience matched by no other. Couture was the first show ever held at the Wynn so there is a great history and loyalty there. We are very lucky and thankful to have our show at the Wynn. CIJTC: And, clearly, you are happy with your job… GB: Yes, I’m very happy with my position at Couture. I can’t think of too many jobs that allow you to collaborate with business people and artists alike. The Couture community is very special, and the industry we are a part of has so much opportunity ahead. I believe the future for our industry is very bright and I look forward to being a part of it in the many years to come.

ISABELLE LANGLOIS AT SONETTE LUXURY BY JCK - BOOTH LUX906

TR E N D S

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Old World Chain

Amali

Lauren K When we think of nature, we think of green and its versatile colours ranging from the yellow-green peridot, beryl, and quartz to the more grassy shades of tourmaline, tsavorite, jade, and emerald. Whatever the stone, they all evoke luscious green energy. Tenzo

Ziio

A&Furst

Octium

Pasquale Bruni Outfit by Desigual (photo: MBFW NYC)

Carlo Moretti

Stephen Webster

Versace

Garrard

Shamila

Outfit by Monique Lhuiller (photo: MBFW NYC)

Suzanne Kalan

Bapalal Keshavlal

Victor Veylan

Michael Endlich

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PINK & PURPLE PASSIONS A symbol of love and femininity, pink is a favourite, with tones ranging from the soft pinkish peach of morganite to the bolder forms of sapphires, tourmalines and rubies. The noble purple tones includes amethyst, spinel, and sapphires. Both of these warm colours evoke feelings of passion and elegance.

Makur

Irit Design

Rudolf Friedman Lika Behar

Mathon Paris

Bayco

Bapalal Keshavlal

Elke Berr Outfit by Christophe Guillarme

Caram, Star Ruby

Tresor

Elena Kriegner

Azuelos Jewelry

Pamela Huizenga

Van der Bauwede

Dust Kreations

Union Suiza

Carberonia

Constantin Wild, Kunzite

Outfit by Maria Barros (photo: MBFW Madrid)

T R E N D S

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C RE A TI V E C RI T TE R S Staurino

Kabana

From lapdogs to lapels and lizards to leopards, from racehorses to seahorses and pandas to puppies, from birds to bats and crocodiles to cats, animals have been a source of inspiration for designers around the world, whose whimsical and creative critters bring joy to all.

Roberto Coin

Oro Trend

Paolo Piovan

Stanislav Drokin

Outfit by Dolce&Gabbana (photo: AS) 46

Effy XIN Jewellery Madstone

Zoccai

Misis Aaron Basha

Sillam Jewelry

Mathon Paris

Meissen

Outfit by Au Jour le Jour (photo: AS)

T R E N D S

C O L O U R S Bizzotto

La Reina

Rodney Rayner

Sicis Jewels

Giovanni Ferraris

Jewelmer

Luca Carati

Wendy Yue

Outfit by Desigual (photo: MBFW NYC)

Staurino

Missoni Home

Annamaria Cammilli

Katherine Jetter

Chaumet

BEAUTY IN BLOOM Flowers are a popular theme in fashion and jewellery, from simple and stylistic to elaborate and realistic. Crafted in precious metals and gemstones, flower jewellery is true beauty in bloom.

Sillam Jewelry

MorphĂŠe Outfit by Roberto Verino (photo: MBFW Madrid)

Green G

Picchiotti

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Constantin Wild

PRETTY IN PARAIBA

One of the most striking gemstone finds over the last three decades has been the discovery, in the late 1980s, of a vibrant greenish-blue tourmaline in the Brazilian state of Paraiba. Much rarer than diamonds, paraiba tourmalines come in several colours, but the most sought-after hue is the vivid neon-blue that seems to glow from within. Unlike other tourmalines, paraibas get their dazzling colour from copper. Recently, these gems have also been found in Nigeria and Mozambique, in larger sizes than those found in Brazil, allowing designers even more creativity for pieces that are pretty in paraiba.

Carla Amorim

Alessio Boschi

Caroline C Caroline C

Rina Limor Outfit by Hannibal Laguna (photo: MBFW Madrid) 50

Hubert

Clementina Duarte

Vianna Brasil Stefan Hafner

Gumuchian

Caroline C

Erica Courtney

Wild & Petsch

OMI Gems

August Mayer Elke Berr Outfit by Duyos (photo: MBFW Madrid) 51

MARKETPLACE

VICENZAORO WINTER 2014: DECIDEDLY POSITIVE SIGNS

Silver and enamel pendant in the brand’s signature teddy bear motif by TOUS.

Once again, the picturesque Italian city of Vicenza was host to VicenzaOro Winter, the first in the trilogy of Italian trade fairs for 2014. Held in January each year, it opened and closed its doors on a very positive note. By Diana S. Zimmerman

mong the positive signs seen at this edition of VicenzaOro was an increase in the number of foreign buyers attending the six-day event. Over 1,500 brands exhibiting in nine pavilions attracted around 30,000 visitors from 106 nations, including nearly 7,800 from outside of Italy, an increase of six percent over the 2013 show. The number of Italian traders was also up by one percent. And the participation of eleven new countries further illustrated the overall optimism for the industry. “We are extremely happy with the results of VicenzaOro Winter 2014,” stated Matteo Marzotto, the new President

Lacy gold and diamond earrings by Stefan Hafner.

of Fiera di Vicenza—who is very much a visionary. “Going back to the theme of the event, ‘Ecosystem Italy. The Future. Now,’ the figures confirm that the possibility for positive change in the future is here in the present. But it is not just a question of figures. During the show, the atmosphere in the pavilions was one of realistic optimism and well-grounded faith. Buyers, the public, and the media all appreciated the best expression of ‘Well Made in Italy.’” 52

Corrado Facco, Managing Director of Fiera di Vicenza, added: “The jewellery industry economy is currently moved by export markets, specifically those outside Europe, which is why increased numbers of Russian-speaking

Delicate gold and diamond pendant by Casato Roma.

buyers and those from the UAE, the Gulf states, and the Americas are a great satisfaction for us. VicenzaOro has confirmed its status as a Global Glamorous Event.” These positive signs are a reflection of Fiera di Vicenza’s strategy to position and internationalize itself as a global business hub that symbolizes the Italian luxury lifestyle. To further expand upon this focus, the fair is participating in twenty events worldwide to showcase the uniqueness and creativity of Italian brands. And, in March of 2013, Fiera di Vicenza was accredited by the Economic and Social Council of the United Nations (ECOSOC) to implement educational and other programs concerning Corporate Social Responsibility in the jewellery

supply chain. It is the first time that the UN has recognized the contribution of a trade fair organization in the areas of ethical and environmental policies under the auspices of the ECOSOC. Highlights The show featured a series of educational seminars and events that centred on a variety of topics, including: Mega trends for jewellery as compiled by the Fair’s Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting division; presentation of the third annual Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Awards, dedicated to excellence in international jewellery, from design to manufacture, distribution, retail, communication, and websites; the third edition of the international contest Next Jeneration Jewellery Talent Contest for young designers; and the Jewellery Technology Forum ( JTF) dedicated to new technologies and trends in the jewellery manufacturing sector, a part of T-GOLD, an event featuring Made-in-Italy machinery and technology for the jewellery sector, now in its 37th edition.

Lacy gold and diamond cuff by Mattioli.

Gold, enamel, gemstone, and diamond multi-finger Kumkuat ring by Roberto Bravo.

Gold, diamond, and coloured gemstone Butterfly pendant by Moraglione.

Gold, ruby, sapphire, and diamond ring by Picchiotti.

One of the show’s Union. In his opening most important sessions, remarks, Corrado Facco “Conflict Mineral Legunderscored the imporislation in Europe and in tance of Dodd-Frank, the United States: How It “What this means is that Pink gold and diamond Impacts both the Domestic quite a significant percentand Export Jewellery Business,” pendant by Le Vian. age of the jewellery traded in the brought to light two opposing sides of the USA will end up in the display cases of legislation. Organized by Fiera Vicenza, publicly-traded companies that will need CIBJO, the Responsible Jewellery Coun- to monitor their supply chain. In other cil, and Confindustria Federorafi, it fea- words, if you export or are looking to extured a panel of experts on ethical trade in port to the United States, it is likely that the jewellery industry and the regulation Dodd-Frank will matter to you.” of minerals from conflict areas, specifically Michael Allchin presented another the Great Lakes region of Africa. Moder- side to the legislative initiative, suggestated by Simon Brooke, a British journal- ing that voluntary processes such as the ist, the seminar was led by Corrado Facco, OECD Due Diligence Guidance would Managing Director of Fiera di Vicenza, be more efficient. He stated that the easiand Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO President. est route to compliance for companies is Other panellists were Michael Allchin, to avoid buying gold from Africa’s Great Chief Executive and Assay Master at the Lakes region. But, he stressed that the Birmingham Assay Office and President damage done to local communities— of the CIBJO Precious Metals Commis- many of which don’t have alternative sion; Marieke van der Mijn, Standards means of a livelihood—is devastating and Coordinator at the Responsible Jewellery often counterproductive. Council; Maria Benedetta Francesconi On the surface the issue seems to be of the Italian Ministry of Economic De- simple—pass legislation that prohibits velopment; Philip Olden, responsible for the import of gold from conflict counmanaging development and implemen- tries. In reality, there is a much deeper tation of responsible sourcing protocols problem that is occurring because of these for gold at retailer Signet; and Marco new laws, one with dire consequences, he Falezza, Jewellery Operations Director of went on to explain. For many villagers— Gucci Group, who represented Confind- both children and adults—who live in ustria Federorafi. conflict countries, mining gold and minThe discussion centred on the 2010 erals is their source of livelihood. When Dodd-Frank Act in the United States they are not allowed to sell what they that requires public companies to as- mine through reputable sources, certain if their products contain conflict black marketers come in and exploit minerals and to determine the nations of them even further, often forcing them origin of these minerals, as well as simi- to sell at prices that are far below market lar legislation pending in the European value. In many areas, legislation that is

Gold and diamond Happy Frog ring by Dada Arrigoni.

Matteo Marzotto, President of Fiera di Vicenza (photo: Dario Raimondi).

Gold and diamond Sultana rings by Annamaria Cammilli

Silver and gemstone charm by Rosato.

Gold and diamond necklace by My Vice.

MARKETPLACE White and black diamond ring from the Fusion collection by Annomis. Men’s steel and black PVD bracelet by Brosway.

Steel, gold, and cubic zirconia brooch created by 3D printing by Anthony Tammaro. Gold and diamond rings and bracelet by Chimento.

Gold and diamond bracelet by Vendorafa.

Gold and diamond MiaLuce Flexi’it bracelet by Fope.

“well intended” is actually devastating the very people it is supposed to help. Gaetano Cavalieri concluded the discussion with these comments: “Above all, we need to consider the commitment we have as members of a responsible business community to society. If the end result of conflict minerals legislation is that, as a rule of thumb, companies avoid trading with the central African gold producers because it is the easiest way to achieve compliance, then we may have avoided doing the wrong thing, but we certainly did not do the right thing.” Another fascinating session featured 3D printing. “Around the Future: 3D Printing for Jewellery” was moderated by Alba Cappellieri, Professor of Jewellery Design at Milan Polytechnic. The display showcased the work of 32 international designers from Italy, the USA, Israel, Taiwan, Holland, England, and Japan, who used state-of-the-art 3D printing technologies to create their own jewellery designs—some of which were quite spectacular. Watching the printing being done was almost as fascinating as the techniques that are employed. According to Cappellieri, three-dimensional printing is a costeffective means of creating single pieces of jewellery, as opposed to thousands at 54

Gothic ring in gold, gemstones, and diamonds by MVee.

a time. It is also well suited to meet the needs of designers, who are able to create forms that would otherwise be impossible to achieve with traditional jewellerymaking techniques. Design Directions Showcasing Design Directions always plays a crucial role in the Fair’s importance. This year, as usual, colour was virtually everywhere. From diamonds of every hue to the classic rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, to the more exotic tourmalines, opals, and garnets, as well as the more affordable coloured gems of every sort. Enamel also played a role in providing harmonious displays of colour. Yellow gold, with and without diamonds or gemstones, was prevalent. Nature-inspired pieces continued as a dominant trend. Flowers, leaves, animals, birds, butterflies, and snakes along with a cadre of underwater creatures and dragons set with precious and semi-precious

stones played important roles. The “Goth” look took centre stage for a number of brands, often-featuring black and white diamonds, enamel, and ruby-red accents. The lacy look ranged from bold to bashful in a variety of metals and gems. First-time exhibitor TOUS, a jewellery and accessories brand from Spain, offered a variety of products from jewellery to watches, handbags, and perfumes. The brand also introduced an innovative marketing campaign targeted at 8 to 12-year-old girls, which is certainly one of the freshest new brand strategies to come along in years. Like their whimsical line of teddy bear jewellery and accessories, the campaign is understated, yet very powerful. Another first time exhibitor at the show was Annomis Jewellers of Antwerp, Belgium, with a booth designed by top Italian architects to match the company’s image and style. Annomis launched three new diamond collections, offering a range of commercial products, from medium to high-end pieces in a variety of materials. (vicenzaoro.com)

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FIFTH ANTWERP DIAMOND FAIR: ANOTHER GLITTERING SUCCESS It was a rainy and cloudy January outside, but inside, the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair was full of warmth, sparkle, and enthusiasm. By Cynthia Unninayar

tarted five years ago, the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair (ADTF), held in Antwerp, Belgium, continues to expand. This edition saw the addition of a third hall, the Antwerp Diamond Kring, which joined the Antwerp Diamond Bourse and the Diamond Club of Antwerp in providing an elegant venue for 90 of Antwerp’s leading diamond manufacturing and trading firms. Organized by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC)—the coordinating body and official representative of the Antwerp diamond sector—the location of the fair is fitting since 84 percent of all rough and 50 percent of all polished diamonds pass through Antwerp.

Convenient for Buyers More than 1000 buyers from around the world streamed into the trading halls to see and purchase a wide variety of polished diamonds. Among them was Pilar Bonson Lopez of Barcelona, Spain: “I am looking for diamonds up to one carat in commercial clarities and colours, which are usually in high demand and therefore difficult to find. At this unique fair, I found a good selection to choose from.” Birmingham-based jeweller, Fei Liu, was looking for larger goods in fancy shapes and fancy colours: “This has been a fantastic experience, as it let me find so many goods that could be compared to each other. The ADTF definitely demonstrates its competitive edge.” A regular visitor to Antwerp’s trading halls, Rafif Tarabishi, General Manager of Al Masaood Jewellery, Abu Dhabi, attended the ADTF for the first time: 56

“The fair’s format enabled me to not only meet my trusted suppliers, but also to make many more new contacts. I got to see and source more goods than during a regular business trip here.” Another Antwerp regular was Alan Bick, a London-based manufacturer: “I came here for one day and was able to cover all three halls before heading home. The ADTF is a great concept.”

Stéphane Fischler, President of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre, explained that 2013 was the second best year ever for the Antwerp diamond industry, with exports and imports up 8 percent.

A Few Highlights The exhibitors at the ADTF showcased a wide range of diamonds, in all shapes, sizes, and colours—truly something for everyone.

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1. An 8.03-ct natural fancy vivid orangy yellow diamond, by Diarough. 2. Fancy yellow 15.6-ct heart-shaped diamond, by Pluczenik. 3. Spectacular red diamond, weighing just under a carat, by Antwerp Cut.

One of the world’s oldest and largest diamond companies, Pluczenik featured a range of sizes, shapes, and colours, including several white stones over 100

carats, all cut in the company’s factory in Antwerp. Peter Martin, Communication Manager, explained that fancy colours are also an important part of sales with demand rising over the last three years. Another ADTF exhibitor that offered a wide range of fancy colours was Antwerp Cut. Among its spectacular stones was an extraordinary red diamond. “The rarity and beauty of this natural fancy red makes it a true object of desire, sought after by collectors and connoisseurs,” commented Mike Akiki, Managing Director. He added that purple and orange are also popular hues. Moving towards the pink end of the spectrum, Diamprest offered 12,500 natural pink baguettes. “Pinks are selling every day,” said Antoine Haddaq, President, “and are purchased mainly by large

Place Vendôme jewellers.” With a focus on colour, the company also featured a number of yellow, green, and blue-grey diamonds. One of the most spectacular coloured diamonds at ADTF was an eight-carat intense blue oval offered by RDH Diamonds, worth an estimated $12 million. Specializing in high-end and investment diamonds of all colours, the company displayed eight white stones worth more than $1 million, four worth over $2 million, two over $4 million, as well as a variety of other diamonds. According to Oded Mansori, owner, “Clients with money buy the best, and we are seeing a wave of wealthy people coming from the Asia/Pacific region who see the highest quality diamonds as good investments.” He further explained that during the financial meltdown in 2008, diamond prices declined, but the top-end diamonds remained stable and some actually increased in value, confirming their status as investment vehicles. While it sells mainly white diamonds, from 5 points to 15 carats, the Dalumi Group, a sightholder, clearly understands the demand for yellow stones, and has created a special division, Golden Diamonds, to sell the entire spectrum of these coloured gems, both loose and in jewellery. Beyond diamonds, as Shmuel Lavan explained, the group is committed to corporate social responsibility and helps Botswana’s local community by sponsoring the Tlokweng SOS Children’s Village, which supports children without parents. Another vertically-integrated sightholder is six-decade-old Dali Diamond. Still family-run, the company is a supplier of the ForeverMark™ Diamond, and has also created its own special 48-facetted WebCut™, “offering a minimalist yet intriguing design, based on the flawless work of nature’s major architect, the spider,” declared Charles Hollander, President, who added that the diamond market is picking up.

A pair of beautiful 15-carat heart-shaped diamonds, by MID House of Diamonds. The most creative logo and diamond-studded promotional decorations were found at the Beauty Gems booth. From left to right are Nirav Shah, Liesbeth Cleen, and Sahil Shah. Antoine Haddaq of Diamprest, left, showcased a wide range of pink and yellow diamonds, while Andre Messika, of Messika Diamonds, presented a large range of white diamonds.

Concurring that the market is now improving, Laurent Grossman, Director of Grossman Diamond Manufacturing, said that this is good news, since the last two years were difficult due to the lower demand. Grossman handles high quality small sizes, 1 to 20 points, used by Swiss watch brands and luxury brands on the Place Vendôme. One of their unique cuts is a star-shaped stone with very specific angles and proportions.

Unusual shapes are no strangers to MID House of Diamonds. Started in the 1970s by his father, it is now run by David Meirov, and has offices around the world. Dealing in all qualities, the brand showcased a pair of 15-carat hearts valued at around $700,000. Over at Rosy Blue, Raj Mehta observed that demand has been rising worldwide over the last four months with a very good holiday season and Chinese New Year. “Rosy Blue is a onestop shopping experience,” said Mehta. “We sell everything from less than one point to more than 25 carats, in DEF, traditional cuts, as well as fancy shapes and colours.” Expressing satisfaction, too, that the market is picking up, Liesbeth Cleen, of Beauty Gems, stated, “the show has been very good, and ADTF offers a good venue to meet our current clients as well as to make new ones.” Of special interest was the diamond-studded logo and decorations at the company’s booth. Beauty Gems specializes in sizes from 0.005 to 5 carats. Family-run A.S. Diamonds, a fifthyear exhibitor, offered a selection of quality white diamonds, 1 carat and above, as well as fancies up to 30 carats. “We are one of the few manufacturers left in New York City with a modern in-house cutting facility,” said Jack Friedman, President, who also expressed appreciation of the show: “The ADTF is a great idea. Since Antwerp is the diamond hub, it should have a fair.” Fifth-generation Trau Bros., a sightholder since 1947, displayed a range of white diamonds, 0.25 to 5 carats, in a variety of shapes, manufactured in Botswana and Namibia. Trau recently entered the world of fine jewellery with its exclusive high-end “Scintilla” brand as well as the “Jade Trau” collection targeting a younger audience. Pini Ringer, Sales Manager, also discussed a new type of grading certificate issued by DeBeers, and limited, for now, to sightholders. 57

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A diamond necklace from the Scintilla brand of fine jewellery, by Trau Bros.

The booth of Diamaz/Eurostone featured custom designs in unusual shapes, and according to Theirry Silber, “is the largest supplier of diamonds to high-end watch brands.” On display were impressive trapezoidal shaped stones destined to decorate watch bezels. “We can create custom shapes according to the client’s needs, and can supply exactly calibrated round and fancy diamonds in all sizes.” Bellataire offered a different product than most at the ADTF. According to Paul Kaplan, Director of Operations, Antwerp, and Oran Hickey, Vice President of Operations, “Bellataire diamonds are extremely rare, ultra-pure diamonds that have been restored to their intrinsic color by a high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) process developed by General Electric and Lazare Kaplan.” Because these stones do not contain nitrogen, as do the other 99 percent of the world’s diamonds, they are classified as Type IIa. Some famous Type IIa’s are the Star of Sierra Leone (968.80 carats) and the Jonker (726.60 carats), which are among the seven largest colourless diamonds ever found. Kaplan and Hickey explained, “The extremely rare Type IIa diamonds were originally crystallized without colour, but during their journey to the Earth’s surface through volcanic pipes, the crystals were subjected to intense heat, pressure, and explosive turbulence. These conditions caused molecular misalignment in the crystals, resulting in a brownish color and internal stress. Bellataire’s HPHT 58

process subjects the stone to comparable conditions of heat and pressure, allowing its crystals to return permanently to their proper alignment and their original state.” In addition to its colourless Type IIa diamonds, the company also sells Type IIa stones in such colours as yellow, blue, and pink.

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4. The special WebCut diamond, by Dali Diamond. 5. Cushion cut, 30.16-cts, G, Internally Flawless, VG/VG, by A.S. Diamonds. 6. A 12.12-ct Type IIa pink diamond, by Bellataire.

World Diamond Mark (WDM) The World Diamond Mark was introduced by Ernest Blom, Vice Chairman of the World Diamond Mark Foundation and president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses and Alex Popov, WDMF chairman. The WDM is based on three core activities: education of the jewellery retail community through the Authorised Diamond Dealer (ADD) concept of accredited retailers; building consumer confidence through the ADD retailer accreditation program; and generic consumer marketing and promotion of diamonds and diamond jewellery. “Reaction to the WDM has been positive,” said Blom, a sentiment echoed by Dacques J. Nini, a retailer from Houston, Texas. “It is great to see that the industry is taking its fate in its own hands, and I look forward to learning how I can implement the WDM programs in my own retail jewellery business.”

The Antwerp Diamond Industry According to the AWDC, 2013 was the second best year for the Antwerp diamond industry. Imports and exports of rough and polished diamonds grew 8 percent for rough and 4 percent for polished. The total value of traded goods was US$55 billion, close to the record US$56.6 billion in 2011, confirming Antwerp’s leadership role as a diamondtrading hub and reflecting its strategy of expanding the industry’s scope worldwide. Its primary market is the USA, closely followed by China. Over the past decade, the average annual diamond production decreased from 160 million carats to a steady 128 million carats for the last three years, while the average price per carat went from US$50 to US$140. The steep increase in rough prices and the consequent decrease of profit margins for diamond traders resulted in a highly competitive environment. Renowned for its expertise, however, Antwerp clearly benefits from a global trend towards larger, more valuable stones. (www.awdc.be)

Raj Mehta, of Rosy Blue, a “one-stop shop for diamonds.” Ernest Blom, Vice Chairman of the World Diamond Mark Foundation (WDMF) and President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, introduced the World Diamond Mark at the ADTF. He is being interviewed by Jane Jiang, a television journalist from China..

Experience Couture Jewellery at India International Jewellery Week

Grand Hyatt, Mumbai 13th - 17th July 2014 www.iijw.org

Jewellery Courtesy: Farah Khan Fine Jewellery

THE GEM & JEWELLEY EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL Office No. AW 1010, Tower A, G Block, Bharat Diamond Bourse, Next to ICICI Bank, Bandra-Kurla Complex, Bandra (E), Mumbai. • Tel: +91-22-2654 4600 • Fax: +91-22-2652 4764 • E-mail: iijw@gjepcindia.com • ENTRY BY INVITATION ONLY.

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DESERT FINDS In February, the Arizona cities of Phoenix and Tucson became prime destinations for jewellery and gemstone buyers, brands, and budding designers. By Cynthia Unninayar

he severe winter storms in most of the United States did nothing to put a damper on the warm ambiance experienced in Phoenix and Tucson as buyers from around the nation and the world came out in force to see the elegant jewellery and gemstones at the by-invitation-only Centurion show in Phoenix and the more than 40 professional and public gem shows scattered all around the city of Tucson. Kicking off with Centurion Held in a luxurious resort in Scottsdale, after its move from Tucson three years ago, the private Centurion show kicked off the USA jewellery trade show circuit amid an air of increased confidence in the sector. Anecdotally, booths were busy, and exhibitors generally expressed satisfaction with results at the end of the three-day show. As usual, the event featured informative speakers, networking events, panel discussions, awards for designers and vendors, and a host of jewellery brands eager to showcase their creations. New at Centurion this year, the morning “Shark Tank” presentations offered exhibitors an opportunity to explain

Cuff made of 24K rose gold over bronze with shimmering accents by Rebecca (Centurion Contemporary Metals category winner). 60

their products in a few brief minutes to retailers during breakfast. This year’s keynote speakers included celebrity event planner Colin Cowie who offered jewellers tips on creating memorable customer relationships and growing their businesses. Among his main points were: Great customer service is the glue of business and key to luxury; people will forget everything else, but not how the shopping experi-

Silver, 14K yellow gold, and tsavorite “Gingko” hinged cuff by Babette Shennan (Centurion Emerging Designer).

ence made them feel; retailers need to find all the touch points they can to sell to the client; retailers should be straightforward and ask what budget and type of product the client wants; and finally, retailers should always ask what they can do better to service the client. On the final morning of the show, diamond guru, Martin Rapaport, spoke on “Prices and Profits in a Changing World.” Focusing on the role of independent jewellers in the future of the diamond business, he shared advice on how they can maintain and increase their market share against other distribution channels. “The diamond business isn’t about

Ring made with a rare green chameleon diamond and white diamonds set in platinum and 18K gold by Maidi Corp (Centurion).

diamonds. It’s about relationships,” he said, adding that Centurion is not a show, but a community. He explained that a diamond travels thousands of miles from mine to market, but the last 18 inches across the counter is what is most important. With today’s increased awareness of social and environmental responsibility, the origin of the stone is also very important. “Human rights and social responsibility are your responsibility. It’s a matter of personal morality.” In that vein, Rapaport also encouraged jewellers to hire veterans. In terms of high diamond prices, he advised, “Don’t freak out. It’s not about price, it’s about value,” warning that jewellers should not sit on inventory hoping it will go up. He also used the interesting Diamond and gold cuff by Todd Reed (Centurion).

Platinum shared-prong halo ring with 3.00 ctw diamonds by A. Link & Co. (Centurion Bridal category winner).

Platinum pendant featuring a 38.30-ct Ethiopian opal, 9.79-ct spessartite, and 2.21-ctw of diamonds, with yellow gold accents by Spark Creations (Centurion Coloured Stone Fashion winner).

analogy of a lion, lamb, and peacock to illustrate that the majors will be impacted more by across-the-board diamond price hikes than the independents. “The solution,” he stressed, “is to strategically define your added value. Go deep inside yourself and find where your passion adds value, and define yourself. You are not a lion. You are not a lamb. You are a peacock! And lions don’t eat peacocks because they choke on the feathers.” Design Awards The annual Centurion Design Awards, voted by retail attendees, honoured a variety of categories. Some of the winners are featured on these pages. From 90 entries, three Emerging Designers were chosen to display their products at this year’s Centurion. Sponsored by Stuller and in its sixth year, the three winners were San Francisco-based Babette Shennan, Ukraine-based Stanislav Drokin, and Turkey-based Rhyme & Reason. As usual, the roster of exhibitors at Centurion featured some of the industry’s best brands, with designs ranging from simple to sophisticated, in all types of metals, gemstones, and diamonds. A few highlights are featured here.

Platinum, gold, sapphire, and diamond ring by Jack Kelége (Centurion).

On to Tucson With more than 40 shows taking place all over the city in February, the principal professional events were AGTA and GJX. Held at the Tucson Convention Center, AGTA reported strong attendance on opening day, and the momentum continued throughout the week. “The AGTA Gemfair™ was remarkable this year,” said Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA’s CEO. “Attendance was up by about three percent and sales were better than ever!” He attributed this positive result to an improvement in the overall attitude and opinion of the industry. Several new events contributed to this year’s success. The AGTA CAD Design Studio was located on the Gem Hall floor and had appointments throughout the show. The full-service studio offered designers the chance to convert their vision to a CAD drawing and create a wax mold ready for casting. AGTA also brought back the Tools, Technology and

Designer Caroline Chartouni with her AGTA Spectrum Award. Inset: Her winning earrings made of gold, diamonds, tanzanite, Paraiba tourmaline, and emeralds.

Petrified palm wood necklace by Barbara Heinrich Studio (Centurion).

Facetted 47-ct kunzite by Constantin Wild (GJX).

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South Sea golden pearl and diamond necklace by Jewelmer (GJX).

Carved amethyst and gold earrings by Munsteiner (GJX). Opal, diamond, and gemstone ring by Different Gems (Tucson Pueblo Gem & Mineral Show).

Csarite and diamond ring by Erica Courtney (AGTA). Carved Bolivian ametrine with concave carving on the back, which appears as convex mirrors through the top by Bob M’Closkey (photo: Jeff Scovil) (GJX).

Supplies Pavilion located in the Grand Ballroom. The return of the Daily Drawing was also a big hit, as buyer’s gathered around the AGTA Spectrum of Design Pavilion to see the winning draws of $1,000 to $2,000 to be spent on the show floor. While gemstones and pearls of every shape, size, quality, type, and colour could be found, as usual, at the Tucson shows, this year saw an increase in the number of fine jewellery designers and brands exhibiting at both AGTA and GJX, which was held in its usual tent across the street from AGTA. Erica Courtney joined both AGTA and GJX this year with a new collection of “Csarite” jewellery along with facetted gemstones. This rare diaspore, found only in Turkey, displays a variety of colours from green to yellow to orange to brown, depending on the ambient light. 62

Pendant made of amethyst, zircon, and an Intarsia (33.61 ct) set in gold by Paula Crevoshay (AGTA).

A longtime AGTA regular, Paula Crevoshay showcased a revival collection called “Czarina Intarsia” featuring spectacular geometrical intarsia designs. Over at GJX, Jewelmer attracted much attention with its exquisite collection of South Sea golden pearl and diamond jewellery. New York-based Golconda showcased a one-of-a-kind necklace of large carved amber beads as well as a variety of gemstones. Spectrum Award winner Caroline C was also present at GJX with a selection of elegant gemstone jewellery. Next year’s Centurion and AGTA will most likely be held during the same time, due to the Super Bowl taking place in Phoenix. For exact dates of the Centurion show, visit CIJintl.com regularly as it will have updates later in the year for all the shows.

Facetted Paraiba tourmaline by Wild & Petsch (GJX). Carved amber bead necklace by Golconda (GJX).

INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR FOR GEMS, JEWELLERY AND GEMSTONE OBJECTS

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BANGKOK GEMS AND JEWELRY FAIR: QUALITY AND MORE The 53rd edition of the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair (BGJF) opened under the theme Freedom of Trade, and exceeded expectations despite external challenges. The BGJF demonstrated, once again, that this event is indeed worth the visit. By Tasha Unninayar

n the weeks running up to the opening of the February edition of the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair, the international media published alarming reports of political unrest and violence in the nation’s capital, even to the point of portraying it as a chaotic war zone. These reports fuelled concerns for the safety of exhibitors, insurance providers, and fair visitors, causing some to cancel their trips. For those of us who dared to go to Bangkok, however, the actual situation was really quite different. In reality, after the February 2nd election, protests in the city were peaceful demonstrations of civil disobedience with minimal incidents, complete with musical entertainment, stand-up comedy acts, street-food vendors, family activities, and sellers hawking all kinds of merchandise in an organized section with hundreds of tents. I know, because I inadvertently found myself at one of these demonstrations, not realizing at first that it was a political happening. But the streets were controlled and monitored by the authorities, and, according to the locals, the protests created more of a traffic jam problem than anything else. Setting the Stage Fair organizers quickly addressed the concerns of potential participants with a proactive and professional approach that involved implementing a number of safety procedures, as well as current and additional incentive plans. Among them were the following: 64

The opening ceremony at the 53rd Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair, with local government and fair dignitaries cutting the ribbon.

Delicate gold and gem earrings by Pranda, one of Thailand’s largest fine jewellery brands.

• Alternative Insurance. In response to international concerns about the protests, the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA) organized alternative insurance for all exhibitors whose respective companies would not cover them at the BGJF. • Freedom of Trade. The Thai government approved a waiver of the 20-percent import duty on gems sold at the Fair. This allowed foreign exhibitors to reduce costs and be competitive with the local market. • Zero VAT pavilion. Authorized by the Thai Government, this exempts the 7-percent VAT on all imports of rough gemstones and raw materials brought into Thailand for manufacturing purposes. • Business Matching Services. The popular service of matching buyers with vendors that best match their needs was offered, free of charge and used quite successfully.

Somchai Phornchindarak, President of the TGJTA and the GJPMC, welcomes visitors to the 53rd BGJF

Regarding the government’s support of the fair, Somchai Phornchindarak, president of the TGJTA and the Gems and Jewelry and Precious Metal Confederation of Thailand (GJPCT) commented, “We are privileged to have the Government’s support for the ‘Duty Free’ and ‘Zero VAT’ policies. As a result

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The Zero-Vat policy of exempting rough gems and materials into Thailand for manufacture was a huge draw at the show.

The Ploi Thai pavilion featured creative Thai designers and manufacturers.

Thailand is the largest exporter of silver jewellery and is home to many creative designers who work in silver such as Goldlip, a Bangkok brand that created this burnished silver, gold, mother-ofpearl, and gemstone necklace.

of this support, which worked hand-inhand with the TGJTA and GJPCT, the 53rd BGJF was able to showcase a comprehensive range of gems and jewellery to the world.” Fair Focus Thailand is the world’s largest exporter of silver jewellery, so it was no surprise to see that silver occupied a significant portion of the show floor, which comprised some 1500 exhibitors and 3000 booths. The Thai Silver Exporters Association presented a glamorous display of workmanship representative of the quality of Thai silver production in the aim of showing concretely why Thailand is the leading manufacturer of silver, and silver design, in the world. “People come from many countries looking for the quality of Thai silver workmanship,” commented Weerasak Lervisrt, President of the Thai Silver Exporters Association.

Honouring the Year of the Horse, Thai silver manufacturer Monplaisir created these earrings made of silver and Swarovski marcasite.

Since Thailand is one of the world’s largest producers of facetted gemstones, a great deal of floor space was also taken up by gem dealers from around the world, many of whom have offices in Bangkok. Other booths ranged from purveyors of simple pieces to prestigious brands featuring highly elaborate fine gold, diamond, and gemstone jewellery. In sum, there was something for every taste and budget. Also in the spotlight was the new Ploi Thai pavilion, under the theme of “Ploi Thai Gems & Jewellery Gateway to ASEAN—The Colourful Ploi Thai: The Spirit of ASEAN 2015,” making reference to the adherence of Thailand to the ASEAN economic zone

Nature-inspired earrings in silver, gold, gemstones, and pearls by Dhevan Dara.

in 2015. The goal of Ploi Thai (Ploi = gem and Thai = Thailand) is to enhance the recognition of stones and jewellery processed in Thailand. “It may be a ruby from Mozambique, but once it is processed here, it becomes Ploi Thai,” explained Anthony Peter Brooke, vice president of the TGJTA, who added that the focus on Thai craftsmanship in stone cutting and jewellery design and manufacture, via Ploi Thai branding, will help bring more international recognition and appreciation of the important role played by Thai jewellery manufacturers as brands themselves and as high-quality private-label producers. And, speaking of rubies, the TGJTA discussed its proactive work relating to the emerging ruby market in Mozambique. “Currently, in terms of deposits in the world, some major ruby and sapphire producers, such as Myanmar, are losing their positions, while several newcomers are rising significantly, 65

MARKETPLACE Thai craftsmanship is known around the world for jewellery and also for objets d’art as shown in this elephant sculpture by KdeCraft.

Stone cutting is a major activity in Thailand. Shown here are facetted sapphires from TC Mining.

such as Mozambique and Madagascar,” stated Dr. Dietmar Schwarz, Director of the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences, at a press conference. As the world of ruby deposits changes, Anthony Peter Brooke stated that it is TGJTA’s goal to elevate Bangkok as the world’s ruby trading centre. The association has been working diligently with Mozambique to have Thailand recognized as a platform for ruby trading by having the Mozambique Ruby Auctions in Bangkok. Positive Atmosphere The reduced attendance both by exhibitors and buyers, while visible in the halls, allowed for a more relaxed environment where serious buyers could have time for more quality interactions. Vendors stated that the buyers they met were more serious and committed to doing business. It was a quality versus quantity situation. Overall, vendors were pleased with the results. “Our expectations have been exceeded and we are pleasantly surprised, despite the political 66

Rubies have traditionally been important in Thai jewellery as seen in this ruby and diamond necklace by Blue River.

One of Thailand’s leading producers of silver jewellery is Topaz BKK, with a production of all types of jewellery including charms.

Lovely ruby and diamond necklace and earrings, modelled by Sangduen (Chompu) Suksawat (left), and her sister, Napa Suksawat, who both now manage the family business Duang Kaew.

situation, since we are still seeing our current customers, as well as new ones,” said Decha Nantana, Pranda, Bangkok. “Because we have such a range of diversity, with less crowds, the customers were able to take their time and experience the interaction in more depth,” added a spokesperson for Beauty Gems of Bangkok. Buyers also expressed satisfaction with the BGJF. “I come every other year and, yes, some vendors are missing, but I am seeing new trends and great new variety in product,” observed Joann, a retail buyer from Alaska, USA. “I come every year and I am quite impressed with the fair organization. It is well established and is a great source for gemstones. Already by the second day, I had bought over US$30,000 worth of stones,” declared A. Deen and B. Verma of Zenith Trading. The Fall edition of the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair will be held September 9 to 12, 2014. And, again, it should definitely be worth the visit. (bangkokgemsfair.com)

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HONG KONG GEM & JEWELLERY SHOWS: DOUBLE THE POWER The Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) inaugurated a new program this year of dividing its annual show into two separate entities: the new Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show and the 31st edition of the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show.

ith its “Two Shows, Two Venues” approach, spread over a combined surface of 123,000 square meters, the dual jewellery and gem events attracted 3,850 exhibitors from 53 nations, making it now the largest show in the world. Nearly 46,000 visitors attended the Jewellery Show, an increase of nine percent over 2013, while the Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show drew more than 28,000 buyers, for a total attendance of more than 74,000 people from 145 countries and regions. “Both the Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show and the Jewellery Show have been very successful,” said Benjamin Chau, HKTDC Deputy Executive Director. “In addition to setting a buyer attendance record at the International Jewellery Show, the number of buyers from Asia, namely the Chinese mainland, India, Taiwan, and Thailand, also recorded double-digit growth. And, traditional markets, such as the United States, Germany, Italy, and Belgium, also grew significantly. The results are very encouraging.” Two Shows, Two Venues The International Jewellery Show was held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) from March 5 to 9, and featured a very structured and distinctive layout. The jewellery was well classified and allocated to special Halls of Focus, depending on the type of jewellery and its origin. Due to the success of last year’s trial run of the Small Order Zone, it was brought back, and in a more convenient location, right at the

By Tasha Unninayar The opening of HKTDC’s “Two shows, Two Venues.” The combined shows featured more than 3,850 exhibitors from 53 nations, making it currently the world’s largest gem and jewellery show.

Sapphire (4.07ct) and diamond ring by Khan Jewellery, the latest in the stable of Aspire brands.

entrance. This special zone catered to the needs of smaller market purchases of quantities ranging from 1 to 1000 items. The Hong Kong Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show took place near the airport at AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) from March 3 to 7. It featured 1500 exhibitors from 36 countries and regions, including nine group pavilions and five trade organization pavilions. It also included two focused product zones: The Hall of Fine Diamonds (carat-size stones) and Treasures of Nature (precious gems and South Sea and Tahitian pearls). “The HKDTC is very pleased to see the ‘Two Shows, Two Venues’ concept come to fruition,” added Lawrence Yung-Yi Ma, Chairman of HKTDC. “We had been discussing this for over three years, and when the opportunity

Emerald, ruby, and diamond earrings by Entice KGK.

finally came to have the two shows at the two venues simultaneously, we had to take it.” Chau noted that more than 90 percent of buyers surveyed considered the new arrangement better than last year for searching suppliers. And, the HKTDC is already planning on adding another hall at AWE next year. Chau went on to say that he anticipates the show to continue growing organically for the next three to five years. Among the exhibitors, the largest contingent was from Italy, with 215 compa-

Gemstone, diamond, and gold rings from the Heritage Collection by E&V Jewellery. Diamond and gold rings from the Lady Dream collection by B K Jewellery. Diamond and gold ring by Peter Lam.

nies and brands representing the jewellery and technology sectors. This year was the first for T-Gold, the technology arm of the VicenzaOro trade fair, to participate in the show. Its 45 exhibitors showcased a range of technical tools and equipment, perhaps indicating that the Italian industry does not really fear Asian competition. Corrado Facco, managing director of the Fiera di Vicenza, said, “The world is shrinking. We need to take the opportunity to build the industry together. We must promote the business globally, and form alliances.”

South Sea golden pearl and diamond bracelet by Jewelmer.

With more than 2200 brands and manufacturers exhibiting at the jewellery show from 53 countries, you could find just about anything in terms of design—from simple silver or steel pieces

Diamond and gold Year of the Horse bangle by Zorab.

to delicately crafted enamel, from exotic jade jewellery to luxurious diamond and gemstone creations, from antique pieces to futuristic designs. On these pages, we present a range of creative and saleable jewellery from the Asian region, at varying price points. Buyers’ Market Views An HKTDC-commissioned survey of buyers at the show revealed “more than 80 percent of buyers expect steady or increased turnover this year, while over 91 percent of buyers believe that jewellery retail prices will remain steady or increase. Asia remains the most promising market.” The survey also found that 66 percent of those interviewed are optimistic about the Chinese mainland jewellery retail sector and consider it to have the highest potential among the major markets, followed by the ASEAN countries.” Most buyers (83 percent) consider product quality to be the most important factor for jewellery consumers, followed

by design (80 percent), craftsmanship (79 percent), price (78 percent), aftersales service or warranty (75 percent), and branding (66 percent). Regarding consumer purchasing behaviour, 81 percent of polled buyers believe that increasingly larger numbers of jewellery consumers will compare prices before committing to buy, while 70 percent predict that consumers will purchase smaller quantities. As internet usage grows, 67 percent of buyers questioned

Colourful multigemstone and diamond pendant by Green G.

expect consumers to increase their online jewellery purchases and review potential products on the internet, including seeking opinions from social networks. 69

MARKETPLACE Cushion-cut Gachala emerald by Piat. Colour change spinel (13.98ct) by Vitalii Golokoz.

Pendant with opal, diamonds, and gold by Dreamtime.

One of the major announcements during the show came from Aaron Shum (left) and Kent Wong, Chow Tai Fook Managing Director, on the agreement to award Chow Tai Fook exclusive distribution in the Greater China region of Aaron Shum’s innovate patented Coronet design.

Hong Kong Market Hong Kong’s exports of fine jewellery grew 6.5 percent in 2013, to reach US$7.3 billion. Main markets continue to be the USA and Europe with a total share of 48 percent. Imports of fine jewellery into Hong Kong rose during the same period by 3.3 percent to US$12.4 billion. Worth noting are increased exports to emerging economies such as the Middle East, Asia-Pacific, and the Chinese mainland. Despite a reported slowdown in luxury spending in China, the nation remains the world’s single largest luxury consumer with a 29-percent share of global consumption. As emerging markets enter the jewellery trade, competition for market share will increase, especially from the Chinese mainland industry, but Hong Kong designers and manufacturers are up to the challenge, declared Laurence Ma. “Hong Kong products have a unique appeal for China’s consumers of luxury brands. Our strength, the quality of our manufacturing and design, our long standing reputation for reliability and integrity, ease in communication, and expertise in financial arrangements are primarily what set Hong Kong apart. What also works for us is that Hong Kong is a main fashion centre, and young consumers with disposable income who are attracted to fashion now see jewellery as an accessory, rather than primarily as an investment.” The next HKTDC show will be held in early March, with exact dates to be announced soon. (hktdc.com) 70

Tanzanite teardrops by AG Color.

Antique-cut mandarin garnet (103ct) by Constantin Wild.

INTERNATIONAL MYANMAR PEARL AUCTION

While in Hong Kong, I had the rare privilege of being invited to one of the most exclusive pearl auctions in the world. After being handed a VIP badge, I was directed to a room where trays full of pearls awaited. As I walked past countless numbers of the round beauties, my attention was drawn to a remarkable strand of golden pearls. These elusive Myanmar golden pearls are hypnotic. The lustre is deep and silken, evoking a setting sun dancing over the ocean’s waves. Trays of pearls, including remarkable golden pearls, were auctioned at the 2nd International Myanmar Pearl Auction during the Hong Kong show.

This event was only the second time in history that these pearls have been made available for sale outside of Myanmar, thanks to the forward thinking of the Myanmar Pearl Enterprise (MPE), which is the Myanmar government arm representing the pearl industry, and the efforts of the Hong Kong-based pearl trading firm, Belpearl. In business more than 40 years, having started as pearl traders in Japan, Belpearl

began buying from farms in Indonesia and Tahiti. Later, it travelled to Myanmar, where the company developed a good relationship with the MPE, which held two auctions a year in the nation. Since buyer attendance was declining, the MPE asked Belpearl for help in reaching the international market. Belpearl’s expertise with auctions, its extensive contacts in the industry, and the company’s presence in Hong Kong resulted in the first Myanmar Pearl Auction in Hong Kong in 2013. “People could not believe what they saw,” said Pierre Hajjar, President of Belpearl. “The collection of Burmese pearls was very impressive, and included a remarkable 19-mm round, awe-inspiring golden pearl.” His son, Michael, added that many traders believe Myanmar produces the finest non-white pearls, for a number of contributing factors. “About 50 percent of Myanmar’s pearls are deep gold, almost like copper, while 20 percent are light gold,” he explained, remarking that prices of the golden globes have been trending upwards, with much of the demand driven by Chinese buyers, who appreciate the deep golden varieties. The Myanmar government restricts the number of pearl farms, and currently there are only nine in the country. The farms are required to practice responsible and sustainable stewardship of the pristine environment. They may not even cut down trees, according to a representative of the MPE. (myanmarpearl.com)

One of

ASIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TOP THREE Fine Jewellery Events JUNE Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

19 - 22 June 2014

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

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FIRST GLOBAL GEM AND JEWELLERY FAIR: A HAPPY MARRIAGE BETWEEN INDIA AND DUBAI The first Global Gem & Jewellery Fair (GGJF), held at the prestigious Atlantis Hotel at the Palm in Dubai in March, attracted 600 invited buyers from 25 countries, who attended this inaugural business-to-business show. By Karen Nuckols

he first trade show featuring gems and jewellery to be held in Dubai, the GGJF was sponsored by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) of India and the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC) of Dubai, with support from the Dubai Gold and Jewellery Group (DGJG). The 134 exhibitors from India and Dubai showed top-quality diamonds, loose coloured gemstones, and exquisite gold and coloured stone jewellery in both traditional and modern styles. There were many choices to please the most discerning buyer, who was seeking just the right pieces for their clients. The buyers represented retail storeowners, manufacturers, distributers, and designers, and came from such diverse areas as Europe, Russia, the Gulf States, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Hong Kong, Mainland China, and Bangladesh. Observing the mix of countries, the many languages spoken, and the faces and dress of buyers, exhibitors, officials, and journalists, it was clear that we were truly a global brotherhood united in the excitement of being a part of this new endeavour. Why India and Dubai? During speeches at the opening ceremony and later at a press conference Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Executive Chairman of DMCC, Vipul Shah, Chairman, GJEPC, T. P. Seetharam, ambassador from India to the UAE, and Pankaj Parekh, Vice Chairman of GJEPC all explained the reasons for this collaboration.

Opening ceremonies at GGJF. Left to right: Vipul Shah, Chairman, GJEPC; Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Executive Chairman, DMCC; H.E.T.P. Seetharam, Indian Ambassador to UAE.

Wide aisles and an opulent ballroom combined to make buying a comfortable experience.

Buyer selecting purchases at Jatin Gems.

“India’s central role as the sourcing centre for diamonds and precious stone jewellery is renowned worldwide,” noted Parekh. “For years, traders and visitors to India have enjoyed the craftsmanship, quality, and design efficiency. Now it is time we return the gesture and bring the source to Dubai—the most promising destination for the gemstone and jewellery trade in recent times.” Shah explained that any global initiative requires two key ingredients: a large, reliable manufacturing and supply base plus a networking and channelling nerve centre. “The GGJF has brought together two of the best ingredients. India is the world’s largest supplier of cut and polished diamonds, gemstones,

and finished jewellery, and these industries have the strength to make an impact in any corner of the world, while Dubai has established itself as a financial and trade gateway to the Middle East, Central and South Asia, Eastern Europe, and North Africa.” Another Hong Kong At the press conference, Sulayem declared that the goal of DMCC is to become the Hong Kong of this part of the world. “We have a long way to go, but we will do it,” he insisted. “The inaugural Dubai GGJF provides the ideal environment for international buyers to trade in top quality gemstones, diamonds, and couture jewellery, and we

Non-branded statement piece with half-domes of gemstones and pearls.

Peacock earrings made of pearls and diamonds by Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas.

Traditional bridal set by Kashi Jewellers.

Cocktail ring by Sawansukha.

are honoured to host this world-class event in collaboration with GJEPC. Dubai has a strong track record in hosting these types of events due to its business-friendly environment and innovative spirit.” It took over two years to shape the show, find the perfect venue, and make it all happen. All of the planning and preparations were seen in the attention to detail necessary for a world-class event. Free buffet lunches, served daily, featured an array of Indian and Middle Eastern food fit for royalty. Outdoor seating for those needing a break from buying or selling was provided on a lovely patio overlooking the hotel swimming pool against the backdrop of Dubai’s ever-expanding, ultra-modern skyline. A first-evening gala was attended by several hundred guests who were treated to an elegant buffet dinner and entertainment by a jazz piano and saxophone duo and a modern dance troupe. The same attention to detail was evident in the show floor layout. Wide, well-lit aisles made it easy for buyers to navigate and to spend time with exhibitors to make their purchases.

Splendid Jewellery Touring the show provided a glimpse into ancient Indian traditions. Gold and diamond jewellery was seen everywhere, but pieces studded with pearls and coloured gemstones also were popular. Some designers had adapted old traditions to produce modern, sophisticated jewellery. There were many large statement pieces, such as Kashi’s bridal jewellery. Along with its larger pieces, Kashi showed a lightweight line that was well-received. An emerald and a diamond necklace at Mohit was absolutely stunning. Other exhibitors showcased various gold bangles, cuffs, chains, and earrings. Enamelled jewellery and tassels of all types were also noted. Anup Bohra of Jewels Emporium introduced his Masterstrokes line. “Every piece has to be a masterpiece. All are one-of-a-kind. If I repeat a piece, it will be sold far away where the two buyers would not meet,” he commented.

“Designing jewellery is not about making money, but about appreciating art.” The Masterstrokes line was inspired by nature. In describing his Fiery Bloom earring and pendant set, Bohra explained that he used 30 carats of Mexican fire opal flowers encased in diamonds and orange sapphires to reflect the colours of the sun. A French enamelled leaf with diamond veins gently caresses the flower symbolizing the onset of spring. With 5.9 carats of diamonds, 43 carats of tsavorites, 1.7 carats of orange sapphires, and 1.32 carats of emeralds, the pendant and earring set took 36 days, from design to completed manufacture. He added that he received promising inquiries during the show, and saw a number of buyers from Lebanon, Saudi Arabia, Dubai, and Ukraine. Anil Bharwani of Seth Sunderdas & Sons also showed lovely handcrafted jewellery. The company makes two limited-production lines per year, which are supplemented by gold and diamond bread-and-butter pieces. He spends much time experimenting to create distinctive pieces. Many are whimsical and contain moving parts such as his umbrella half dome earrings, a popu73

MARKETPLACE “Fiery Bloom” by Masterstrokes by Anup Smrriti, from the house of Jewels Emporium.

Sapphire and diamond necklace and earring set by Fine Jewellery by Valentine.

Small diamond-set gold gun with matching bullets by Dhamani.

Buyers admire traditional jewellery at Sil Gold by Tarun Jain.

lar traditional style in India, which are stylized in gemstones. Sawansukha, designers and manufacturers of creations ranging from contemporary diamond jewellery to traditional gold sets and jadau pieces, displayed a tourmaline cocktail ring set in 14K gold. According to Siddharthaa Sawansukha, CEO, “It signifies opulence with grace and a taste for the finer things in life.” The ring features uncut diamonds set in 24K kundan surrounded by uncut diamonds. Tourmaline set with kundan forms the second circle. Each tourmaline is surrounded by round brilliant diamonds. Baguettes encircling the entire ring complete the beautiful piece. With buyers from all over the world, a potential question was: would everyone like the styles by these Indian companies? The answer seemed to be “yes.” A number of designers, such as Krown Jewels, featured trendy gold jewellery specifically for the Middle Eastern market. Memon A Kader Sait, Secretary General and Head of the Indian Investment Promotion Committee in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, brought a contingent of Saudi buyers to the show. He said much of what the Saudis purchased was for the tourist trade relating 74

to the Hajj to Mecca in November and Ramadan in November. Saudi women prefer the lighter pieces for daywear, but gravitate towards statement pieces for evening and special occasions. The tourist trade was also a factor in purchases made at the Fine Jewellery by Valentine booth, whose simple but sophisticated diamond and gemstone necklaces and earrings appealed to buyers for the Dubai tourist trade. Reactions Favourable comments were heard from buyers during and after the show. Abdul Qadir from Pakistan, for example, was pleased with the quality of goods available. A wholesaler from Lakhani Jewel Collection in Karachi, he said, “The show was very good. I bought chains, bracelets and plain jewellery sets.” Exhibitors also expressed satisfaction with the show. Echoing comments made earlier by Sulayem, Glenn Valentino, CEO of Business Development at Mohit, said, “Dubai is becoming another Hong Kong. As one of the first DMCC sightholders, we are seeing a big change in the last few years. Even companies in Belgium are setting up offices here.”

Panjaj Kodnani, owner of Krown Jewels, said, “This show has great potential and will be a force to reckon with in the next couple of years.” Haresh Pahuja of Itan Jewels in Dubai entertained new buyers from China, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, and Malaysia. “The orders were huge and we are extremely happy with the show and its format.” Dr. Nawal Agrawal of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas remarked, “The Dubai show was reasonably good for us. This was a nice attempt by the GJEPC and DMCC to promote Indian jewellery in the Middle East countries. It was a well-arranged show with good branding for high-end jewellery. Since it was the first attempt of its kind, I hope the shortcomings will be resolved in subsequent shows.” Another proponent of the show, Sawansukha said they like the show and would be back next year. Amit Dhamani, CEO and Managing Director of Dhamani Jewels, producers of diamond jewellery, concluded, “The GGJF is the culmination of the efforts of two prestigious bodies, DMCC and GJEPC. This is one of the few shows in the region with a business-to-business format and I feel the GGJF has a bright future.” (gjepc.org)

The

WORLD’S NUMBER ONE Fine Jewellery Event SEPTEMBER Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

15 - 19 September 2014 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong

Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Equipment and Packaging

17 - 21 September 2014 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

Fine Finished Jewellery

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BASELWORLD AND MORE… In its second year with the impressive new infrastructure, the 42nd edition of the eight-day BaselWorld show continued its focus on attracting luxury brands in the watch and jewellery sectors. This year, however, two other events sprang up in the area, both attempting to capitalize on BaselWorld’s global appeal. By Cynthia Unninayar

s last year, the main attractions at BaselWorld were the watch brands. The lavish multi-story stands in Halls 1.0 and 1.1 drew crowds that jostled to see the latest products, which represent 95 percent of the Swiss watch sector. While satisfied with the overall results, show organizers indicated that the number of exhibitors was somewhat lower than 2013, which was lower than 2012, essentially because the fair’s goal is to attract mainly high-end exhibitors. Buyer attendance was also down slightly, although total visitors reached a record 150,000, which included representatives of exhibitors, journalists (4,000!), and the public. While the watch halls seemed quite busy, most exhibitors in the jewellery halls, where I spent the largest part of the eight-day event, felt that the show was “quiet,” adding that, while they had appointments with some current clients, they met few new ones. Even usually busy brands confided that most visitors were “just looking.” Few booths were busy. Having said that, however, other exhibitors in Hall 2.1 and Hall 2.2 (more than half was occupied by watch brands this year) expressed delight with the results. In the related branches pavilions, traffic was also less than last year, but according to fair officials, “This decline in quantity is no great cause for concern as it was compensated by a rise in quality, with attendance composed for the most part of trade visitors…The sector is performing well, as shown by the 76

Curves of 18K gold set with diamonds and carved in delicate detail from the Auratam collection by Bapalal Keshavlal.

upturn in interest from European markets and steady demand from Asian markets.” Business was a bit more brisk at the Hong Kong pavilion in Hall 4. Susan Lam Director, Germany and Central Europe of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) commented, “BaselWorld is an excellent platform for Hong Kong jewellery and watch companies to show their new collections and demonstrate their design and manufacturing capabilities to international buyers.” One-of-a-kind 18K snake ring made in enamel with 557 diamonds by Masriera.

Design Directions While it is impossible to cover all of the creative brands at BaselWorld, included here is a representative range of companies and their latest collections. As for many of the others not mentioned, you will find examples of their jewellery in our Trends & Colours pages. Speaking of trends, there was nothing radically new. One observation, though, was that more and more jewellery brands are creating watches, generally with Swiss movements. This line extension is perhaps not unexpected as the watches tend to evoke the same codes as the jewellery.

Earrings made of delicate enamel and 18K gold spheres by Bagués in celebration of the brand’s 175th anniversary.

The predominant design directions were generally in line with the top trends we predicted in our Winter Trends Guide. Colour was everywhere, in single tones and multi-coloured bouquets. Lacy and open filigree-type designs proved popular as antidotes to high metals prices. Nature-inspired

Transformable rings in 18K gold and diamonds by Jörg Heinz

Instinto pendant in 18K gold, diamonds, and amethyst by Magerit.

Miniature Canvas in gemstones, 18K gold, and diamonds by Palmiero.

pieces, especially flowers, butterflies, and snakes, were in abundance. Exotic earwear, cuffs, and rings made bold statements. Multi-finger rings and single-finger rings with designs extending down the finger offered fresh approaches to the traditional circles. Skulls and other edgy pieces maintained their appeal for certain consumers. Highlights This year’s show offered some brands the opportunity to celebrate milestones in their existence. The India-based, fine jewellery family brand, Bapalal Keshavlal, celebrated its 75th anniversary with a line of intricate 18K gold diamond jewellery in the Auratam collection, as well as exquisite diamond, ruby, and emerald pieces. A century older, Spanish brand Bagués/Masriera commemorated 175 years of existence with a unique snake ring made of 557 diamonds set in 18K gold with 15 different enamel colours. Bagués presented intricate and technically sophisticated enamel and gold spheres in the form of earrings and necklaces. First-time exhibitor to BaselWorld, UK-based Graff Diamonds, drew a lot of attention with its US$55 million Hallucination watch. This exceptionally rare multi-coloured diamond timepiece is estimated to be the most valuable watch ever created.

Gemstone and gold Flower ring by Jewellery Theatre.

Charm bracelet evoking the famous eggs, made in 18K gold and gems by Fabergé.

Rings in 18K rose gold set with a diamond, garnet, and chrysoberyl by Jochen Pohl.

Another first-time participant, Italybased Luigi Ravasi Gioielli, featured massive gold necklaces and bracelets. Totally handcrafted with juxtapositions of textured matte and brilliant finishes, the necklaces weighed as much as 15 ounces of 18K gold. These special pieces were available in yellow tones as well as a light pink alloy special developed by Luigi Ravasi.

Diamond-studded 18K gold Octopus cuff with inventive interior lighting by Shawish.

After a two-year absence, Jewellery Theatre returned to BaselWorld with a line of Flowers in addition to its fairytale and freeform jewellery. The reason for its absence? The Russian brand had relocated to London.

Natural fancy diamonds make up the aptly named Hallucination watch by Graff.

Another brand that returned to BaselWorld after a brief absence was Shawish. Two years ago, the Swiss brand impressed everyone with its diamond ring carved from a solid diamond. This year, it presented a series of exceptional pieces in its Magic Mushrooms line, including the world’s most Exotic 18K gold full-finger expensive USB ring set with black and white diamonds by Jacob & Co. keys, incorporated into an enamelled and bejewelled mushroom pendant. The most remarkable piece, however, was an elaborate 18K rose gold cuff in the form of a diamond-studded octopus, topped by a natural pale pink pearl. Flirting with advanced technology, Shawish added an impressive system of interior lighting that makes the diamonds sparkle with different colours. A master of the moonstone, the German-brand Jochen Pohl showcased these lovely gems in addition to a line of beautifully crafted rose gold pieces set with a variety of coloured gemstones and diamonds. Nearby, fellow German brand, Jörg Heinz, featured an interesting jewel that transforms from one design to another at the slightest touch of a finger. 77

MARKETPLACE

Gold-plated Key to Your Heart jewellery by Buckley London.

Silver earrings set with cubic zirconia and lab grown beryl by Dani by Daniel K. Gemstone and 18K gold ring by Mousson Atelier (exhibitor at GJF Europe in Freiburg).

Introducing its new Instinto collection, Spanish brand Magerit evoked the relationship between the human and natural worlds. Its pieces (and marketing material) combine the strength of a panther with feminine subtlety. Also from Spain, Carrera y Carrera drew inspiration from the delicate embroidery patterns on silk shawls from a bygone era, in its new Seda Imperial collection. Exhibiting in the watch Hall 1.1, Versace introduced new designs in its Fine Jewellery Collection. Using colourful gems and diamonds, these handcrafted pieces evoke both the classical motifs of Versace’s legendary heritage, as well as the allure and sophistication of the brand’s world today. The Year of the Horse was epitomized par excellence by Chinese brand, TTF, which presented a wide variety of realistic and stylized versions of the proud animal as well as other creations. At the other end of the spectrum, a new brand, Dani by Daniel K, presented a collection of very fashion-forward silver jewellery set with cubic zirconia and lab-grown gems in a variety of colours. A few other remarkable creations seen at BaselWorld are also featured on these pages. 78

Diamond and 18K gold Seda Imperial pendant inspired by ancient silk embroidery by Carrera y Carrera.

The Two Other Shows Two other trade events took place during BaselWorld. The city’s iconic Markthalle was the venue for Rapaport Group’s Diamond Show. According to organizers, the four-day event drew several hundred buyers who came to see its 70 exhibitors from the USA, Belgium, Hong Kong, Britain, Israel, and India. Some of the exhibitors expressed satisfaction, while others felt the show was quiet, yet overall, they were optimistic for next year (March 19, 20, 22, 23), as more people learn about it.

Diamond and 18K gold Year of the Horse necklace by TTF.

regions. Pre-registered visitors numbered 6,500 (half from outside Germany).Traffic was brisk on the opening day, when I attended, and the ambiance was upbeat. As of press time, final attendance figures were not available. Show organizers indicated that, due to increased demand, they are adding a new hall for next year’s fair (March 22 to 25). ‘Medusa Idol’ necklace in 18K gold, diamonds, and gemstones by Versace.

Handcrafted solid 18K gold necklace by Luigi Ravasi Gioielli.

The Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe, co-organized by UBM Asia, opened its doors on April 1. Focusing on business and sourcing for the mid-price segment of the market, namely materials used for finished products with a market value of €1,000 to €3,500, the four-day show featured 430 exhibitors from 33 countries and

These two additional shows seemed to cater to a market that was not available at BaselWorld, with two different types of clientele. It will be interesting to see how these complementary events evolve. Stay tuned. Dates for the next BaselWorld are March 19 to 26, 2015.

atelier-zuppinger.ch

Plate Tableware or part of a watch movement? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org

Plate | The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges. The dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with holes for the screws and recesses for the jewels in which the pivots of the movement wheels will run.

E d i t o rial A. Link 61 A.S. Diamonds 58 A&Furst 42 Aaron Basha 47 AG Color 19, 70 Alessio Boschi 50 Alice K 24 Amali 42 Annamaria Cammilli 30, 49, 53 Annomis 54 Anthony Tammaro 54 Antwerp Cut 56 August Mayer 51 Azuelos Jewelry 44 B K Jewellery 33, 69 Babette Shennan 60 Bagués 76 Bapalal Keshavlal 10, 11, 43, 44, 76 Barbara Heinrich Studio 61 Bavna 24, 29 Bayco 44 Beauty Gems 57 Bellataire 58 Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas 73 Bizzotto 15, 24, 48 Blue River 66 Bob M’Closkey 62 Brosway 54 Brumani 28 Buckley London 78 Caram 44

a nd

Carberonia 26, 44 Carla Amorim 50 Caroline C 31, 50, 51, 61 Carrera y Carrera 78 Casato Roma 52 Chaumet 49 Chimento 54 Clementina Duarte 51 Colormasters 24 Constantin Wild 23, 44, 50, 61, 70 Coronet/Aaron Shum 70 Dada Arrigoni 53 Dali Diamond 58 Dani by Daniel K 78 Daniel Espinosa 26 Denise James 32 Dhamani 74 Dhevan Dara 65 Diamprest 57 Diarough 56 Different Gems 62 Dreamtime 70 Duang Kaew 66 Dust Kreations 44 E&V Jewellery 32, 69 Effy 47 Eichorn 30 Elena Kriegner 44 Elke Berr 20, 44, 51 Entice/KGK 68 Erica Courtney 51, 62 Fabergé 77

Ad ver tisers’ Fine Jewellery by Valentine 74 Fondation Haute Horlogerie 79 Fope 28, 54 Fope 54 Galatea 30 Garavelli 28 Garrard 43 Gavello 24 Giovanni Ferraris 28, 48 GJEPC 39, 59 Golconda 62 Goldlip 65 Gordon Aatlo 30 Graff 77 Green G 32, 49, 69 Gumuchian 51 HKJJMA 80, 81 Hubert 50 Irit Design 44 Isabelle Langlois 41, 32 J Jewels 26 Jack Kelege 2, 3, 24, 61 Jacob & Co 77 Jane Taylor 24 Jewellery Theatre 24, 77 Jewelmer 27, 34, 35, 36, 38, 48, 62, 69 Jochen Pohl 1, 16, 17, 24, 77 Jörg Heinz 77 Jye Luxury Collection 37, 84

Index

Kabana 46 Kashi Jewellers 73 Katherine Jetter 49 KdeCraft 66 Khan Jewellery/Aspire 68 La Reina 48 Lafonn 28 Lauren K 24, 42 Le Vian 53 Leaderline 26, 32 Lika Behar 25, 44 Luca Carati 48 Luigi Ravasi Gioielli 78 Madstone 47 Magerit 77 Maidi Corp 60 Makur Designs 9, 44 Masriera 76 Masterstrokes by Anup Smrriti 74 Mathon Paris 44, 47 Mattioli 32, 52 Meissen 47 Metalsmiths Sterling 32 Michael Endlich 43 MID House of Diamonds 57 Misis 47 Monplaisir 65 Moraglione 53 Morphee 30, 49 Mousson 7, 28, 78 Munsteiner 62 MVee 54 My Vice 53

Nanis 26 Nouvelle Bague 28 Octium 42 Old World Chain 42 OMI Gems 51 Oro Trend 46 Oscar Heyman 28 Palmiero 77 Pamela Huizenga 32,44 Paolo Piovan 46 Pasquale Bruni 42 Paula Crevoshay 26, 62 Peter Lam 69 Piat 70 Picchiotti 49, 53 Pluczenik 56 Pranda 64 Ramon 4, 5 Rebecca 26, 60 Rina Limor 50 Roberto Bravo 53 Roberto Coin 46 Rodney Rayner 48 Rosato 28, 53 Rosy Blue 58, 83 Rudolf Friedman 44 Sawansukha 73 Scintilla/Trau Bros 58 Serafino Consoli 13 Shamila 43 Sharart 30 Shawish 77 Sicis Jewels 48

Sil Gold by TarunJain 74 Sillam Jewelry 47, 49 Spark Creations 61 Stanislav Drokin 46 Staurino 46, 48 Stefan Hafner 51, 52 Stephen Webster 28, 43 Suzanne Kalan 43 TC Mining 66 Tenzo 42 Thistle & Bee 21, 30 Ti Sento 26 Todd Reed 60 Topaz BKK 66 TOUS 52 Tresor 44 TTF 78 Union Suiza 44 Valente Milano 28 Van der Bauwede 44 Vendorafa 54 Versace 43, 78 Vianna Brasil 30, 51 Victor Veylan 43 Vitalii Golokoz 70 Wendy Yue 48 Wild & Petsch 51, 62 XIN Jewellery 47 Yael Sonia 30 Ziio 42 Zoccai 47 Zorab 69

International Amber Fair Gdańsk | Poland 28-30.08.2014 ambermart.pl

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