CIJ Winter Trends Guide 2013 by Europa Star HBM

No 296 / Winter - Trends Guide 2013

Baselworld 2013 First avenue

Couture las vegas 2013 laFite Ballroom

JoCHenPoHl.Com

E D I TO R ’ S

L E T T E R

TOP TEN JEWELLERY AND FASHION COLOUR DIRECTIONS FOR 2013 Another year has gone by, and from our travels around the world, checking out jewellery from the Americas to Europe to Asia, we again bring you the most prevalent trends for jewellery for 2013. Since jewellery and fashion are linked, and since colour is the major trend in both jewellery and fashion, we also feature Pantone’s top ten colour directions for Spring/ Summer 2013. The runways for S/S 2013 fashion were again awash in colour, with bold and sometimes contrasting tones. It is not just one colour anymore, but combinations of two or more colours. The bold orangey shade of last year seems to have given way to the blues and greens, as couturiers move towards the cooler shades, while the warmer tones add punch to any outfit. Many collections were full of jewellike embellishments, along with many metallics. The runway was also full of jewellery, with large cuffs, stackable bangles, long layered chains, large gemstone-centre rings, and statement-making necklaces. The major directions for jewellery design for 2013 are mostly a continuation and evolution of past trends. The most important direction remains the use of Colour, in all tones and hues, represented generally by gemstones. Now, however, it is mostly about a Mix & Mingle of colours. Flora & Fauna continue to be muses for a variety of Nature-inspired themes, with flowers and butterflies leading the trend, while the marine environment and snakes are popular. Since 2013 is the Year of the Snake, we feature a variety 04

their popularity in a variety of materials. Creative Cuffs come in all shapes and are worn on the wrist or upper arm. As people look more towards organic and natural looks, the Au Naturel trend is reflected in the use of rough gemstones, drusies, or other “earthy” materials. New to the top trend list this year are bracelets that are Hanging by a Thread, with gems or metals attached to cords of varying thicknesses and materials. The last of the top ten trends are pieces that go A Step Beyond, with innovative designs that are technically sophisticated and sometimes quite surprising.

Nature and colour are muses for fashion as seen in this outfit by Nicole Miller, who uses the Pantone S/S 2013 colours of Monaco Blue, African Violet, and Nectarine.

of jewels evoking these interesting serpents. The last few years have seen an increase in openwork pieces and these Lacy Looks are often a result of high metals prices. Edgy designs have moved mainstream as more consumers are Going Gothic. The perennial hoop earring is a fashion must-have, and these Happy Hoops are no longer simply round or in plain metal, but come in a multitude of shapes, sometimes studded with gems. Tempting Tassels continue

Other articles in this issue include an interview with the director of the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand, who discusses buying gemstones and jewellery with confidence. And, because social marketing has become so important in business today, you won’t want to miss the article on tips, tricks, and trends in this type of promotion. Our usual designer profiles and Trends & Colours double page spreads are also on the menu, as is a look at jewellery featured at the world’s trade fairs over the last few months. The entire team at CIJ Trends & Colours wishes you a wonderful and prosperous year.

Cynthia

Cynthia Unninayar Editor-in-Chief / CIJ Trends & Colours

Rare coloured gemstones For over five millennia the talismanic emerald has been sought after for its seductive beauty and treasured as an emblem of power and a symbol of hope. Today, emeralds are all the more precious when sourced from Gemfields, pioneers in the ethical and environmentally-responsible mining of coloured gemstones. Josephine wears Jooal Zambian Emerald Jewellery. For more information about our emeralds please contact us on +1 917 952 6916 or visit www.gemfields.co.uk

IN THIS ISSUE

On the Cover

Pendants with moonstone and diamonds in 18k whitegold with matching silk-chain.

Cover Feature on page 10

www.jochenpohl.com

Gemstones – Colourfull faceted sapphires

Top Ten Trends – Alessio Boschi

Editor’s Letter 04

Top Ten Jewellery and Fashion Colour Directions for 2013

Jochen Pohl – The Story is the Stone

Cover Feature Profiles 20 22 24 37 41 64 17 25 38

Bapalal Keshavlal – Woman, where it all begins Dynamic Elegance in The Fifth Season BlueWhiteGroup’s Full-Service Diamond Offerings Isabelle Langlois – Born to Beauty Joanna Angelett – From Snowdrops in Perth to Royal Garden in London The 4th Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair 44 Colours Trends 46 48 Ten Top Colours for Spring/Summer 2013 50 Top Ten Trends 52 54 Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013 56

Gemstones

44 Pretty in Pink and Purple – Goldesign

Trends & Colours Pretty in Pink and Purple Cheerful & Bright Beautiful Blues Nature’s Colours Elegant Opposite The Year of the 2013 Living Gold

Buying Gemstones and Jewellery with Confidence

Social Marketing 60

Social Marketing – Tips, Tricks and Trends

66 70 74 80 84

Indian Jewellery Design – Bollywood and Beyond Italian Design and More at Cortina and Vicenza Creative Design – Thai Style Milestone for Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Intergem 2012 Features the New and Unusual

Index

Marketplace

30 Top Ten Trends – Lydia Courtelle

53 Elegant Opposite – Hellmuth

21 Colours Trends – Emily Saunder

Editor Cynthia Unninayar • Contributors Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Rayan Innue, Antonella Scorta, • Advertising contacts Alexandra Montandon amontandon@europastar.com T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie Glattfelder nglattfelder@europastar.com T. +41 22 307 7832 / Italy - Alessandra Arati aarati@studioarati.it T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena csapena@europastar.es T. +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong maggietong@europastar.com T. + 852 9658 1830 / India - Bhupal Potdar bhupalpotdar@gmail.com T. +91 98211 51035 / USA - Karen Nuckols knuckols@CIJintl.com T. +1 610 986 7285 • Graphic Design Laurence Chatenoud, Tasha Unninayar • Managing Director Philippe Maillard • On the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com - Published by Europastar HBM SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: contact@CIJintl.com Printed in Geneva by SRO-Kundig • Copyright 2012 by Europa Star • www.europastar.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ International Jewellery.

cover feature

Jochen Pohl – The Story is the Stone Colour is today the undisputed ruler on the fashion runways and in the world of contemporary jewellery. And, when you think of fine gemstone jewellery, one name invariably comes to mind, a name that has expanded far beyond its hometown of Idar-Oberstein to become one of the world’s most respected fine jewellery brands By Cynthia Unninayar

Five centuries ago, Idar-Oberstein attracted miners who settled there in search of gemstones found in the cliffs of the region, starting a tradition that flourishes to this day. After the miners, came the cutters and engravers, and before long, the small German town had turned into one of the world’s most famous centres for gemstones. It was against this backdrop—where the secrets of gemstone cutting and jewellery making were passed from generation to generation—that Jochen Pohl grew up. As a young man, he apprenticed as a goldsmith with his father, and then continued to learn his craft while developing a very special relationship with gemstones. Today, Jochen Pohl’s very successful eponymous brand is in the same town, 10

located in a building known for its minimalist, almost monolithic, concrete design, somewhat reminiscent of a spaceship. The workshop is modern, clearly organized, and illuminated with lots of natural light, and therefore serves as a direct contrast to the countless traditional tools, workbenches scarred by hot metal and sharp tools, and the characteristic leather aprons designed to catch valuable gold and platinum shavings. A perfect example of how tradition and craftsmanship can be combined with modern technology, it reflects Jochen Pohl’s definition of luxury as a “symbiosis of exceptional quality and durability.” But, he muses, “The real story is the stone. It is about much more than its mere value. It’s about discovering its

essence, its unique self-contained world, its personality.” And discover it, he does. Pohl’s designs are individually developed to bring out the best of each stone, which include such beautiful gems as rubellite, tanzanite, Mandarin garnet, aquamarine, moonstone, and tourmaline, to name but a few. His respect for the beauty and uniqueness of each and every gem forms the basis of his creations, which are as diverse as the colours found in nature. The colourful rings, earrings, and pendants are small sculptures with a surprisingly modern design that reflects the spirit of the times. Respecting the stone are not mere words. Pohl lives by and cultivates this philosophy. Just look at the time and effort made to examine the rough gem from all sides before measuring

is opulently shared by all Jochen Pohl jewellery, whether minimalist designs or the occasional radical creation. “It’s essential that each piece should be unique,” he adds. “When I select the stone, I already know what the piece is going to look like and how it’s going to feel on the body. I always imagine how the owner of the ring is going to look.”

and faceting it in accordance with the natural shape of the crystal in order to bring out its true character. Or, think of all the time necessary to achieve a flawless finish on the gold or platinum, or the precision used in drilling and shaping each hole so that the stone aligns perfectly with the setting, or the secure way it is attached to the metal. “We invest all this time and effort out of respect for the stone that has taken millions of years to form, and out of respect for our clients around the world, who expect the best.”

For Pohl, it is always a very special moment when the future wearer and the piece of jewellery come together for the first time, when they find their stone’s own unique story. Among the major jewellery shows, this year, Jochen Pohl will be present at BaselWorld in April and Couture in Las Vegas, where the brand continues to attract important retailers in America and around the globe. (www.jochenpohl.com)

Once set in a piece of jewellery, the solid construction of the metal with the stone is surprisingly soft and comfortable on the finger. Pohl refers to this as the “equilibrium and balance that set the jewellery apart.” This same equilibrium 11

profile

Bapalal Keshavlal –

Woman, Where It All Begins More than just a mere slogan, this phrase evokes the philosophy of one of the world’s leading global jewellery brands. By Man Kei Tong

Since its global launch more than 20 years ago, Bapalal Keshavlal has become an established and prestigious name with many of the world’s most prominent high-end jewellers, providing jewellery that is known not only for its distinctive designs, but also for its high added value. One of India’s premiere brands, its long history has been directed towards serving the emotions and desires of the women who wear these sumptuous creations. “The woman is where it all begins,” muses founder Romy Mehta. “We use our skills in the art and craft of jewellery to create pieces that radiate beauty and femininity, a perfect complement to the wearer.” Never one to rest on its laurels, Bapalal launched Auratam at the May-June 2009 shows of Couture, Luxury by JCK, and the JCK’s Prestige Promenade. The unique technology used to create these remarkable pieces is one of the first of its kind worldwide and has earned rave reviews by consumers in the USA, Europe, the Caribbean, and Japan. (For more about Auratam, please visit www.auratam.com.) 14

its selective high-end jewellery at such important trade shows as Couture Collection and Conference, Luxury at JCK, Prestige Promenade JCK, About J in Italy, the prestigious pavilion B1 at the Vicenza Show, and in 2013 at Centurion. • It has been a consistent winner of the JCK Jewellers Choice awards in different categories starting in 2008, and continuing in 2010, 2011, and 2012. In 2012, the brand won the Grand Prize out of dozens of winners. • In addition to advertising in major international jewellery trade publi cations for the past twelve years, it is now promoting the brand in select consumer magazines. • Its integrated marketing strategy has resulted in increased brand awareness and sales volume with existing customers and an influx of new clientele. • Bapalal Keshavlal has repeatedly received awards for outstanding export performance from the The following are just a few of the notable Government of India, during the achievements of the Bapalal Keshavlal past decade, in the category of brand over the last few years. gem and diamond-set jewellery. Its international designs can be seen in • Years ago, it was the only Indian com- catalogues and its website . pany to have been invited to showcase (www.bapalalkeshavlal.com)

ompany.com.br

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TR E N D S

Ten Top Colours for Spring/Summer 2013

Peridot earrings by Gordon Aatlo Designs

In this issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends guide, we again present the top ten trends in fashion colour for Spring/Summer 2013 as forecast by Pantone, the global authority on color for more than 20 years, in its Fashion Color Report Spring 2013, as well as matching colours of jewellery. The fashion color trends for this season mix dynamic brights with novel neutrals to create a harmonious balance, allowing for unique combinations offering practicality and versatility, while attracting attention. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The expression â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;balancing actâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is something we all relate to as ZH VWULYH WR ÂżQG KDUPRQ\ LQ WKH IUDQWLF SDFH RI RXU HYHU\GD\ OLYHV Â´ VD\V Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color InstituteÂŽ. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The same can be said for fashion as we look for balance between light and bright, classic and new. This seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s color palette emphasizes this need for balance, while at the same time allowLQJ IRU LQGLYLGXDOLW\ VHOI H[SUHVVLRQ DQG H[FLWHPHQW Â´

Emerald and diamond earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal

By Cynthia Unninayar

Zultanite and diamond earrings by Erica Courtney

Emerald and diamond earrings by Bruner

Gemfields emerald, gold, and diamond earrings created by Theo Fennel

Peridot pendant by Carelle

Rachel Roy using Pantone Tender Shoots. Like the first signs of spring, Tender Shoots, a vibrant yellow-green, is invigorating, active, and cheerful.

Enamel and sliver bangle by Belle Etoile

Barbara Tfank using Pantone Emerald, a lively, radiant green, that inspires insight and clarity while enhancing our sense of well-being.

[See more similar colours in the Trends & Colour section later in this issue.] Peridot, lemon quartz, and diamond ring by Casato

Emerald and diamond ring by Katherine Jetter

Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2013.

Faceted emerald by Muzo International

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Colour Trends for Spring/Summer 2013 Mandarin garnet and diamond pendant by Le Vian

Yellow and white diamond earrings by Gumuchian

Yellow and white diamond earrings by Norman Silverman

Fire opal and diamond ring by Alessio Boschi

David Meister using Pantone Nectarine, a bright, effervescent citrus orange with coral undertones, giving a tangy burst of flavor.

Gold and glass ring by Baccarat White and yellow diamond ring by Oscar Heyman Gemstone and diamond bracelet by Jenny Perl Citrine and diamond ring by Isabelle Langlois Mandarin garnet and diamond ring by Jochen Pohl

Ella Moss by Pamella Protzel Scott using Pantone Lemon Zest, a cheerful yellow colour with a refreshing, spritely greenish cast. Opal, green garnet, and diamond brooch by Forever Jewels

Rings in platinum with white and yellow diamonds by Jack Kelege

Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2013.

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Colour Trends for Spring/Summer 2013 Spinel earring by Garaude

Coral earrings by Carla Amorim

Chalcedony pendant by Sandy Leong

Ruby and diamond earring by Mousson Atelier

Sunstone earring by Paula Crevoshay

Green jade and white agate earrings by Misis

Peter Som using Pantone Grayed Jade, a subtle, hushed green with a gray undertone, that brings about a mood of quiet reflection and repose. Prehnite and diamond ring by Spark Creations

Carmen Marc Valvo using Pantone Poppy Red, an exuberant red, a seductive, sensual and celebratory shade.

Chalcedony and diamond ring by Jolie B. Ray Garnet and amethyst ring by Jolfer

Aquamarine and brown diamond ring by Kavant

Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2013.

Ruby and diamond ring by Zydo

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Colour Trends for Spring/Summer 2013 Amethyst and diamond pendant by Azuelos Jewelry

Amethyst and silver earrings by Thistle & Bee Sapphire and emerald earrings by Buccellati Sapphire and diamond earrings by Sharart

Lapis lazuli and diamond earrngs by Anzie

Blue topaz, peridot, and diamond earrings by Tresor

Multi-gemstone bracelet by Ziio

Amethyst ring by Nanis Amethyst and diamond ring by Palmiero

Nicole Miller using Pantone Monaco Blue, a classic shade that offers both stability and depth to the entire palette.

Amethyst ring by Roberto Coin

Tadashi Shoji using Pantone African Violet, a statement color that brings a touch of intrigue to the palette, as purples often do, and can be incorporated into many unexpected combinations.

Lapis lazuli ring by Jane Taylor

Lapis lazuli and diamond ring by Magerit

Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2013.

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Colour Trends for Spring/Summer 2013 Diamond pendant by Bibigi

Blue topaz ring by H. Stern

Titanium and diamond earrings by La Reina

Diamond pendant by Garavelli

Aquamarine and diamond ring by Mary Esses

Saunder by Emily Saunder using Pantone Dusk Blue, a colour that offers a calming sense of serenity.

Micro-mosaic and diamond watch by Sicis Jewels

Spinel and diamond bracelet by Dietrich

Aquamarine and diamond ring by Suna Bros

Aquamarine and diamond ring by Romain Herzo

Pamella Roland by Pamella DeVos using Pantone Linen, a warm neutral that is light and airy, providing a nude-like basic that is a must-have for spring.

Multi-gemstone pendant by Pearce Design

Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2013.

Rose quartz and diamond ring by Ramon

profile

Dynamic Elegance in The Fifth Season With innovative and fresh designs, the jewellery of The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin evokes clean, refined lines, offering an informal look at the world of luxury. By Cynthia Unninayar

Silver woven bangles plated in yellow gold, rose gold, rhutenium and rhodium.

Silver bangles in electroform handmade diamond cut finish with different galvanic colours.

Representing the elegance and tradition of fine craftsmanship inherent in the Roberto Coin brand, The Fifth Season encompasses modernity and contemporary style for a fresh and youthful casual-chic look. Perfectly suited for today’s metropolitan dynamism, it represents the vision of a new generation, one that looks at the world with a diverse and original regard, one that is conscious of tradition while being sensitive to fashion trends and societal changes.

“My idea is that jewellery is connected to an attitude rather than an ideal concept,” muses Roberto Coin. “The name ‘The Fifth Season’ appropriately refers to a woman’s evolving sense of style. Since fashion changes as quickly and as regularly as the seasons, this jewellery collection adds to an already outstanding repertoire, allowing every woman to dress for her moods.” And dress for her moods, she can, with a collection designed in sterling silver featuring yellow, white, and Silver rings plated in rose gold with amethyst, rhodium with citrine and rhutenium with lemon quartz.

rose gold finishes, with some pieces incorporating both diamond and semiprecious stone accents. Among the styles are the popular basket weave and stingray motifs as well as pieces set with colourful gemstones. Crafted with a high concern for quality and excellence, The Fifth Season jewellery is produced entirely at the Italian factory La Quinta Stagione Spa, under the scrupulously professional and ethical eye of the Coin family. Maturity and experience of tradition clearly converse with modernity in The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin to offer an informal look at the world of luxury. (www.tfsbyrobertocoin.com)

13.98 ct emerald cut in our Bogotá workshops, from a 51.95 ct rough, mined in Muzo, Colombia, February the 29th 2012.

BaselWorld 2013 – April 25-May 02 – Hall 3.0, Booth D31

www.muzoemerald.com

profile

BlueWhiteGroup’s full-service diamond offerings Born from BlueWhiteDiamonds, which started out as an importer of diamonds and precious stones over 30 years ago, the BlueWhiteGroup today has ambitions to be the reference in the world of diamonds and jewellery by offering a range of products to satisfy even the most demanding customers. JJEWELS. “Arcobaleno” Collection. 18 Kt gold with chalcedony, lilac jade and lemon quartz cabochon, irregular and round sapphires, and diamonds.

LEADERLINE. “Sweet Moon” Collection. 18 Kt gold with moon stones, diamonds and natural pearls.

The group achieves this with four different brands dedicated to different customer segments, each offering high-quality products that bear witness to the extreme precision and originality of manufacturing “Made in Italy”, built around the BlueWhiteDiamonds name, which is the historical company name of the original diamond and gem importer that continues to offer an unparalleled service in this field. JJewels Milano, a young and refined brand of unique high-end fashion jewels whose creations redraw the boundaries of traditional jewelry and create highly refined pieces that help to enrich a woman’s charm and elegance. Leaderline Milano, a well-established brand that endlessly experiments and researches the design and creation of its unusual collection, is a trend setter brand that sets the fashion rather than follow it. Duepunti Milano offers an innovative concept with a new way of wearing the “classic” diamond in an unconventional style. It is the perfect fusion between luxury, technology and revolutionary materials. (www.bluewhitegroup.it)

DUEPUNTI. Ring Collection. Non-Allergenic silicon ring, silver 800°° setting, 0.002 cts diamond.

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013 In this issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends tracker guide, we present the top ten trends for jewellery design for 2013, with examples from designers around the globe.

Multi-gem and diamond pendant by Effy Jewelry

Multi-gem and diamond pendant by Temple St. Clair

By Cynthia Unninayar

Mix & Mingle

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Notre Dame Southâ&#x20AC;? pendant in enamel and gold by Commelin

Although single-tone colours are still prevalent in jewellery, as in fashion, designers in both domains are mixing it up with contrasting or complementary shades to create a variety of pieces in a rainbow of harmonious colour.

Multi-gem and diamond ring by Alessio Boschi

Multi-gem and diamond necklace by Eclat Jewelry

Multi-gem and diamond cuff by Zorab Atelier Sapphire, spessartite, and tsavorite cuff by Georland

Bi-colour tourmaline ring by Jochen Pohl

Multi-gem ring by Joanna Angelett

Outfit by Laurel (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin)

Sapphire, ruby, and emerald ring by Paolo Piovan

Multi-gem ring by Vianna Brasil

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013 2

Flora & Fauna Sapphire and diamond pendant by Vida

Ruby, sapphire, and diamond pendant by Ponte Vecchio

Since antiquity, jewellery has been created to denote the natural world. For 2013, the most popular flora and fauna are flowers, butterflies, birds, fish, frogs, snakes, insects, and jungle animals, notably tigers, in realistic and stylized designs.

Diamond necklace by Piaget

Ruby, tsavorite, and diamond ring by MVee

Diamond and gold cuff by Rina Limor Gold bracelet by Barbara Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oro Porcelain and diamond ring by Meissen Joaillerie

Limited edition automatic watch in gold, enamel, and diamonds by Blacksand

Gemstone and diamond brooch by Mark Schneider

Outfit by Maria Escote (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Collezione Optic Chic - www.leaderline.it

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013 3

Lacy Looks Diamond pendant by MVee

Gold pendant by Carrera y Carrera Silver and onyx earring by Hera

Lacy looks have increased over the last few years as designers innovate with techniques such as laser technology and electroforming, as well as traditional filigree. A creative counterpoint to the economic times of the day, these designs come in all types of metals and materials, with or without gemstones, to create a more luxurious look for less.

Gold, silver, and onyx earring by Vahan

Gemstone and gold earring by Vicente Agor Gold earring by Lisa Nik

Gold-plated silver earrings by Daniel Espinosa

Gold and diamond bracelet by Damiani

Gold and diamond ring by Nanis Outfit by Hannibal Laguna (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Amethyst and diamond ring by Luca Carati

Gold and diamond earring by Carla Amorim

www.jjewels.it Collezione Barocco

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013 4 Diamond and gold ring by Vida

Going Gothic

Diamond and gemstone bracelet by Pippo Pierez Gold and diamond ring by Hellmuth

The most popular motif of the edgy gothic trend is the skull. Interpreted literally and figuratively, in gold, silver, and other types of materials, the skull is sometimes made with diamonds, gemstones, and enamel. Gothic pieces are so popular that even prestigious mainstream brands are adding gothic to their traditional lines.

Sapphire and diamond ring by MVee

Blackened silver and gemstone ring by Daniel Espinosa

Diamond, gemstone and enamel ring by Lydia Courteille

Outfit by Maya Hansen (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Gold and diamond ring by Madstone

Silver bracelet by Stephen Webster

Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013 Diamond and pearl earrings by Reena Ahluwalia

Happy Hoops Diamond and sapphire earrings by Sharart Design

Diamond and ruby earring by Cris Porto Sapphire and diamond earrings by Bizzotto

Earrings are the most popular form of jewellery and hoops are the most popular form of earrings. No longer merely round or in metal, they come in many shapes and sizes, adorned with diamonds, pearls enamel, and gemstones.

Diamond â&#x20AC;&#x153;St. Moritzâ&#x20AC;? earrings by Antonini

Multi-gemstone and diamond earrings by Vianna Brasil

Sapphire and diamond earring by Miiori

Silver, gold, zircon, and enamel earring by Misis

Gold and diamond earrings by Octium

Outfit by Francis Montesinos (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Gold and diamond earrings by Dana David

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013

Diamond and gemstone pendant by Jorg Heinz

Tempting Tassels

The tassel trend is continuing into 2013 with a wide variety of earrings and pendants in a multitude of gemstones, rough diamonds, seed pearls, and metallic chains. Gold and gemstone earring by Alberian & Aulde Emerald, diamond and pearl pendant by Katerina Maxine

Pearl and diamond earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels

Diamond earrings by La Reina

Ruby and sapphire earring by Rina Limor

Rubellite and gold pendant by Syna

Sapphire and diamond earrings by MVee

Peridot and gold earring by Goshwara Outfit by Agatha Ruiz De La Prada (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013 7 Diamond, emerald, and ruby cuff by EV Jewelry Design

ɑȐǸɜȨɨȐ ɤпɕ Diamond and gold cuff by Amrapali

With their strong wide design, cuff bracelets are fashionable for every season. Worn in a variety of creative ways—on the wrist or as a signature piece on the upper arm—cuffs offer the perfect way to add individuality to any ensemble.

Silver and gold Mokume Gane cuff by Pierre-Yves

Diamond, gold, and enamel cuff by Masriera Opal, silver, and gold cuff by Victor Veylan

Silver and gemstone cuff by Metalsmiths Sterling

Silver and gold cuff by Lika Behar Diamond and gold cuff by Coomi

Gemstone and silver cuff by Thistle & Bee Outfit by Roberto Torreta (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Silver, gold, and gem cuff by Maevona

Silver cuffs by Old World Chain

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013 8

Sliced pink tourmaline and gold earrings by Mauro Felter

Au Naturel

The move towards more a natural look is reflected in jewellery with â&#x20AC;&#x153;rawâ&#x20AC;? gemstones such as geodes or other minerals and crystals combined with silver and gold, as well as sliced and rough diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and tourmalines.

Sliced diamond and gold earrings by Bavna

Pink tourmaline and gold earrings by Margery Hirschey

Aquamarine and apopolite pendant by Pearce Design

Sliced diamond earring in silver and gold by Victor Veylan

Amethyst geode and silver bracelet by Pamela Huizenga

Raw diamond and silver brooch by Todd Reed

Amethyst nugget bracelet by Nicoletta Cei

Sliced emerald and diamond ring by Coomi

Geode ring in gold and argentium by Jenny Reeves

Outfit by Roberto Verino (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013 Leather, gold, and golden pearl bracelet by Jewelmer

Hanging by a Thread

As an alternate to gold or silver bracelets, one of the fastest rising trends involves gemstones or precious metals, in a variety of colours and designs, attached to a cord, with or without a precious metal clasp. These cords may be thin, almost thread-like, or woven fabic, leather, and even rubber.

Diamond, gold, and cord bracelet by Mattioli

Diamond, gold, and cord bracelet by Pippo Perez

Gold and leather bracelet by Oromalia

Gold and cord bracelet by Le TĂŠo & Blet

Diamond, enamel, gold, and cord bracelet by Aaron Basha

Antique Venetian bead, gold, and leather bracelet by Dada Arrigoni

Gemstone, gold, and cord bracelets by Bellon Moonstone, gold, and cord bracelet by Jochen Pohl

Outfit by Farah Angsana (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York)

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013 Flexible bracelet that stretches, in gold and diamonds by Fope

A Step Beyond

Innovation in the jewellery world has produced some surprising creations. From technically sophisticated flexible bracelets to hidden compartments that spring open with a touch, from interchangeable elements to pieces with remarkable moving parts, these innovations create not only beautiful designs, but also go a step beyond.

Ring with two pirouetting cubes made in opal, diamonds, and gold by Sharart

A diamond and gold ring that expands to fit the finger by Armas

Thanks to a remarkable rotating mechanism, the centre of this pearl, emerald, and diamond brooch turns, providing an unexpected show of sparkle by Reâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Volve

Gemstone and diamond ring featuring little hiding places to conceal small surprises by Alessio Boschi Outfit by Eva Soto Conde (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Ring in gold, tourmalines, and diamonds, that remembers its shape thanks to thin inner strips of titanium alloy providing flexibility and resistance by Mattia Cielo

Silver ring with interchangeable and coloured aluminum bands by Reglisse

PROFILE

ISABELLE LANGLOIS – BORN TO BEAUTY One glance at Isabelle Langlois’ stunning collections and you know there is a master designer at work. The intricacy and balance of each perfectly crafted piece evokes a sense elegance and desire. And it’s no wonder. She comes from a heritage of supreme craftsmanship and beauty. By Diana S. Zimmerman

In 1929, Isabelle’s grandfather, René Grospiron, left his village in the Jura Mountains of France and opened a lapidary company in Paris. Known for its superior craftsmanship, the Jura Mountain region has been home to some of the finest stonecutters since the 17th century. As watchmaking in Geneva grew, so did the need for cut stones. During the harsh Jura winters, farmers spent long hours on their lapidary bench. The number of cutters grew from 700 in 1760 to over 8,000 in 1920. It is this culture of fine craftsmanship that Isabelle’s grandfather embraced. Excellence continued to flow through her family as Isabelle’s father, Daniel Piat, an internationally renowned gemmologist, joined the business in 1961, giving it a strong push forward. Travelling throughout the major mining areas of the time—Columbia, Brazil, Burma, Thailand, and Cambodia—he searched for the finest raw gems for the company’s cutting facilities. With ever-expanding demand, Isabelle’s older brother, Eric, opened a facility in Thailand to source and cut gems, thereby ensuring only the finest quality. Her

younger brother, Emmanuel, joined the Parisian family business that provides the Place Vendôme’s most-renowned brands with their rarest gems. As a child, Isabelle also showed a passion and genius for selecting exquisite gems, having been introduced to stonecutting by her grandfather, and gemmology by her father. Drawing jewels had been Isabelle’s passion since she first played with the

contents of her mother’s jewel box and marvelled at Empress Farah Diba’s crown for which her father provided gems. Later, it was her aunt, Catherine Vassort—whose company Isabelle joined after completing her business studies and one of the most

prestigious Haute Joaillerie workshops of the time—who introduced Isabelle to creating jewellery. There, her innate sense of colour blossomed. In 1993, Isabelle started her own company and collections. The reaction was immediate and so was the demand— first in Europe, then across the globe. As her brand grew, so did her need for ever more beautiful precious gems and expert manufacturing and quality control. By this time, Eric had assembled a highperforming workshop under French management in Bangkok. There, her captivating designs are brought to life. In 2010, Isabelle discovered a small Parisian courtyard at 12 rue de la Paix— just opposite Cartier’s main shop. It was the perfect address to showcase her creations, and where today she often personally welcomes her customers. Isabelle was born to beauty, but it’s her remarkable talent that allows each of us to experience the colour and magnificence she brings to every jewel. (www.isabellelanglois.com) 37

G E M STO N E S

BUYING GEMSTONES AND JEWELLERY WITH CONFIDENCE A large segment of the jewellery industry today involves coloured gemstones. Along with the growing use of these gems comes an increasing number of ways to enhance nature’s creations. To learn more about buying gems and gemstone jewellery with confidence, we took the opportunity, on a recent trip to Bangkok, to visit the very modern and well-equipped Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization). Established in 1998 under the visionary leadership of Professor Sakda Siripant, the GIT is accredited by the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and is a member of the Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee (LMHC), made up of the world’s five leading gem laboratories. Services include the analysis of gemstones and metals with related certificates, as well as research and training, among other gem-related activities. We sat down with the GIT Director, Mrs. Wilawan Atichat, to learn more about issues relating to gemstone treatments.

Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar CIJTC: Not too long ago, a major department store in the USA was called on the carpet for selling jewellery with lead-filled rubies, a treatment that was not disclosed to the consumer. We occasionally hear of other examples of gems that are ‘enhanced’ in some way. How important is gem treatment in the industry today? Wilawan Atichat: Since time immemorial, gemstones have played a major role in jewellery. And, also since early times, people have come up with ways to change or enhance the quality of gems. More recently, they have created synthetic stones. What is important, however, is not whether a stone has been treated or created, but whether the customer is made aware of this information, and can thus make an informed buying decision. CIJTC: What is the most common treatment? WA: Centuries ago, people discovered that by applying heat to a gemstone, they could change its colour and clarity. Using a charcoal fire, for example, they could transform a drab stone into a beautiful one. As with all other fields involving technology, many advances have been made in gem enhancements. Today, ovens and techniques are more sophisticated. Most gemstones are heat-treated, and this is a commonly acceptable practice as long as the treatment is disclosed. For example, less than one in 1,000 sapphires is un-heated, making these gems very rare and thus very valuable.

Professor Sakda Siripant, founder and former director of GIT, and Mrs. Wilawan Atichat, current director.

CIJTC: What are the gemstones that are most commonly heat-treated? WA: There are many, but among the most common is amethyst. Heating pale amethyst will turn it into the popular yellow-orange citrine [Editor’s Note: see the article In Search of Amethyst and Citrine in the Winter 2012 issue of CIJ Trends & Colours]. Tanzanite is heated to change it into the beautiful purplish-blue shades. Sapphires are heated to lighten or intensify their colour and to improve uniformity. Heat will also improve or change the colours of such gems as rubies, morganite, kunzite, zircon, and tourmaline. Aquamarine is subjected to heat to remove the greenish undertones to obtain a bluer stone. These are but a few examples. CIJTC: How can you tell if the stone is heated? WA: Heat modifies the natural inclusions found in gemstones, including gas or fluid inclusions. In the laboratory, our gemmologists examine and study the inclusions, and can tell how the stone has been heat-treated. 38

Faceted Mozambique rubies, showing three unheated stones (back row) and two heated gems (front row).

Using the world’s most advanced gem instruments, GIT provides a variety of testing and certification services for both consumers and the trade, as well as other related services, including testing the purity of precious metals. The lab’s highly experienced gemmologists also have a strong background in mineralogy and geology. At right front, Mrs. Wilawan Atichat, GIT’s director, examines a gemstone.

CIJTC: If heating is common and acceptable, what are some of other treatments that are less acceptable or not acceptable at all?

A sample of unheated Paraiba tourmaline (above) and the same sample after heating (below), showing the change to the prized characteristic neon blue colour.

WA: People are always coming up with creative ways to modify gems to make them more attractive. These include irradiation, dyeing, fracture filling, and diffusion, among others. Some of these enhancements are stable, but others are not, which is tantamount to cheating the customer. There is also the issue of synthetic stones. CIJTC: What are some of the major ‘trends’ in gemstone treatment other than heating? WA: We have all heard lately about labs receiving synthetic diamonds as natural stones, and the same thing happens with coloured stones. One of the ‘hottest’ trends today is synthetic corundum being sold as natural ruby. We are even seeing synthetic rubies that are filled with lead glass! Other concerns involve artificial samples that people attempt to pass off as rare natural gems. Recently, our lab saw two purported samples of Haüyne, a rare and beautiful blue mineral that was discovered in 1807 by René Hauy. As it turned out, they were nothing more than blue glass. CIJTC: You mention rubies filled with lead glass. Can you elaborate? WA: Rubies that contain fractures or fissures can be ‘repaired’ by filling these fractures and cavities with glass mixed with lead or bismuth to increase the refractive index of glass to make it closer to that of ruby. As a result, fractures or cavities can be disguised, which improves both clarity and colour. This method was invented in about 2004 for improving the low-quality and highly-fractured corundum, especially rubies and orangey-pink sapphires, which come mainly from localities in East Africa. This method is not new, but has been used in diamond treatment, the so-called ‘Yehuda’ treatment, as well as in emeralds treated with resins. A major problem, however, with these types of treatments is that the glass filler is not stable and can easily deteriorate, thus finally ruining the appearance of the stone. It is important therefore that the customer be informed about this treatment and its stability or lack of stability. If customers want to purchase these stones, they must be made aware of this.

An example of a purported Haüyne gem (top) that turned out to be blue glass, as seen from analysis of the microscopic synthetic Wollastonite crystals (below).

CIJTC: You earlier mentioned diffusion as a treatment. What is beryllium diffusion and how and when is it used? WA: Diffusion is a controversial treatment. It consists of heating a gemstone in contact with certain chemical elements. The high temperatures allow those elements to penetrate the gem, where they can influence the colour or even produce a star effect. In the case of sapphires treated with beryllium, the result is a yellow colour, or a reduction of blue colour, depending on the makeup of the stone itself. Since beryllium is a tiny atom, it can easily be diffused into the sapphire, sometimes penetrating the entire stone. 39

G E M STO N E S CIJTC: Last year, there was much talk in the industry about irradiation of gemstones, raising fears relating to blue topaz. Is this still a ‘hot’ topic? WA: Gemstones can be subject to radiation to enhance and deepen their colors. They can be irradiated in a nuclear reactor (neutron bombardment), an accelerator (electron bombardment), or by exposure to gamma rays in a cobalt irradiator. The most commonly treated stone is topaz, which becomes blue as a result of the exposure to radiation plus annealing. There have been some fears among consumers about this treatment, especially in relation to blue topaz. In fact, nearly every blue topaz sold today has been irradiated. In nature, topaz is usually colourless or very light blue. When subjected to radiation, its crystal structure is modified in the way it absorbs the frequencies of light, and this then changes its colour. The U.S. Nuclear Regulatory Commission regulates the initial distribution of gemstones (most notably, blue topaz) that have been irradiated in a nuclear reactor or accelerator to enhance their colours. Confusion still persists in the marketplace about the commission’s role in the regulation of these stones and their safety. The NRC believes that irradiated gemstones currently on the market are safe and it has not requested jewellers to remove them.

Microscopic view of light reflecting off a fissure filled with lead-glass in a ruby.

CIJTC: What are the most common gems you analyze in the lab, and also some of the more unusual stones? WA: Being in Thailand, the most common gems the GIT is asked to analyze are rubies and sapphires, but we see really all types. In terms of unusual gems, the lab occasionally receives stones that are claimed to be Pallasitic peridot. They are greenish-yellow gems from outer space that are found in Pallasites, a very rare type of stony-iron meteorite, which contains the semi-precious gemstone peridot (olivine) embedded in an iron-nickel matrix. We are able to distinguish them from terrestrial, and less expensive, peridot by comparing their specific gravity and trace-element content, such as manganese and nickel.

Natural sapphires (above) and those heated with beryllium to change their colour (below).

CIJTC: Does GIT ever double-check samples that have been tested by other labs that the owner is still concerned about? WA: Yes, this happens on occasion. Just a few weeks ago, we received two gems to verify the results, which had previously been certified by another lab as natural rubies. Our analysis, however, showed the two stones to be, in fact, synthetic. CIJTC: With all the equipment and techniques for analyzing gemstones, how could the other lab have made such a significant error? WA: I cannot comment on why it happened at the other lab, but to ensure that mistakes don’t happen at GIT, each sample is analyzed independently by at least three technicians, and the results are then compared. WA: I would like to conclude by saying that most gemstones traded in the market today are enhanced in some fashion. But, without treatment, the world would not have enough beautiful gems to go around. Enhanced gemstones offer a less-expensive alternative for consumers and, in some cases, provide colours that do not exist in nature. There is nothing inherently wrong or illegal about selling enhanced gems as long as the enhancement is fully disclosed to the consumer at the point of sale. As I mentioned, some enhancements are stable and are commonly accepted practices. Others are not stable and should be avoided. It is therefore important that customers, whether retailers or consumers, purchase gems and jewellery from trusted dealers. When in doubt, especially if the stone is valuable, they can always ask for a certificate from a respected laboratory. 40

Colourful faceted sapphires that have undergone beryllium treatment.

pr o f i l e

Joanna Angelett – From Snowdrops in Perth to Royal Garden in London Two decades ago, a talented young designer streaked onto the scene in her beloved land of Australia. Organic and magical in nature, Joanna Angelett’s captivating designs continue today to set standards for originality, beauty, and craftsmanship. “Veronica Perfoliata” ring from the Royal Garden Collection, made with a 7.33-ct sapphire cabochon, diamonds, and 18K gold.

By Diana S. Zimmerman

Dr. Peter Hollingworth, Governor-General of Australia, and artist, Joanna Angelett at Government House in Canberra, Australia.

Joanna (Trummer) Angelett is a perfectionist who oversees every detail of her masterful pieces—from design through completion—even the cutting of special stones. With creativity as her trademark, she focuses on pushing the boundaries of design by using the latest CAD and laser technologies. The magnificent sapphire flower in Veronica Perfoliata with its complicated design and stunning effects is just one example. Like so many of her pieces, the ring is magical, celebrating an Australian legend about the mysterious rare blue flower for which it is named. In 1996, just four years after founding her design and diamond cutting business, Olgene & Co, Joanna successfully represented Australia in the International Design Competition Jerusalem 3000. Her spectacular Cup of David garnered worldwide recognition, launching what she describes, as a “fairytale” career. In 1998, she renamed the company Jewellery Art Gallery and relocated to Perth in Western Australia. On its opening day, among the many guests who attended the ceremony were the Ambassador of Israel to Australia, His Excellency Samuel Moial, and the Lord Mayor of Perth, Dr. Peter Nattrass.

Joanna’s pieces are prized by collectors around the globe. Her Golden Cross of Life is in the Vatican. “In 2000, my career was highlighted,” she says, “by the blessing of my creativity by His Holiness Pope John Paul II.” Joanna is proud that she “is the only artist in the world to be given this unique honour.” Shortly thereafter, her project, Menorah – Tree of Life, was critically acclaimed by the Prime Minister of Australia. In 2002, the Governor-General of Australia, Dr. Peter Hollingworth, ordered an official copy of her now famous Golden Cross of Life. He even introduced the Menorah project to Queen Elizabeth II. The Queen’s letter, expressing appreciation for Joanna’s original talents, inspired the Royal Garden Collection. With worldwide demand for her pieces rising, Joanna opened the Angelett Gallery in Los Angeles. It soon became “the place” for those “in the know” to find new and unique designs. With her U.S. presence gaining ever more critical acclaim, the Office of the Governor of New York invited her to meet with then Secretary of State, Dr. Randy Daniels, whose department also ordered a copy of the Golden Cross of Life.

“Cup of David” in cloisonné enamel, gold, silver, diamonds, and labradorite.

“Spring” ring from the Snowdrops Collection in 18K gold, pink and white diamonds, and Australian keshi pearl.

Award-winning “After the Rain” ring in palladium, pearl, and diamonds.

In 2006, she was recognized by the Home Office in the United Kingdom as “The Artist with Significant Achievement.” In 2007, she opened the Angelett Gallery in Sussex, England. A year later, Joanna relocated her company to London. By 2009, her Royal Collection was being exhibited in many prestigious London venues, including the Mansion House and Goldsmith Hall. Honours came again in 2010, when her After the Rain ring, from the Royal Garden Collection, received an award from the United Kingdom Palladium 2010 competition sponsored by the British Jewellers’ Association. I could never have imagined such an amazing life,” she says. “If my story encourages others, it will be one of my most important achievements.” www.angelettgallery.co.uk 41

profile

Muzo’s Magnificent Emeralds – Redefining Green According to Andean Indian mythology, emeralds were the tears that an ancient princess shed upon the death of her prince. The Muzo mines in Colombia, named after the tribe that inhabited this area, were in use for at least five hundred years before the Spaniards arrived in the New World in 1492. By Cynthia Unninayar A 6.55-ct Muzo emerald, cut from a 10.06-ct rough (photo: Muzo International). Muzo children at the school managed by Muzo International (photo: Serge Sibert).

An 8.76-ct emerald cut in Muzo International’s Bogotá workshops, from a 47.88-ct rough, mined in Muzo, Colombia, certified to be resin-free (photo: Muzo International).

A 10.23-ct Muzo emerald, from an 81.62-ct rough, certified to be resin-free (photo: Muzo International).

When the conquistadores discovered the secret location of the legendary Muzo mines in 1538, they began a mining operation that would last for centuries. During this time, Muzo emeralds were sent all over Europe, to the Spanish Royal Court, and even as far away as India where they adorned the treasures of the great Moguls. Today, the fame of the legendary Muzo mines carries on. Nestled in the foothills of the eastern branch of the Andes Mountains, 100 kilometres north-northwest of Bogotá, these mines continue to produce remarkable emeralds, gems that are prized for their size, clarity and, of course, their ideal colour—a saturated, pure green to slightly bluish-green. 42

This 15.54-ct Muzo emerald shows the saturated, pure green to slightly bluishgreen colour characteristic of Muzo emeralds. (photo: Muzo International).

Now, however, it is not the conquistadores, who extract these beautiful gems, but Muzo International, a branch of Texma Group, which obtained exclusive mining rights in November 2009. When it comes to mining emeralds in Colombia, Muzo International takes a different and “greener” approach. With this company, it is about taking the gem from mine to market. After the emeralds are extracted, they are polished and facetted by the company’s skilled cutters, working under environmental initiatives and safety protocols that are among the strictest in the world.

With complete control of the value chain from mine to market, Muzo International thus ensures that both the stones themselves and the methods by which they have been processed are of the highest quality, and is the foundation for the three pillars differentiating Muzo emeralds: - Quality: When necessary, only nonpermanent cedar oil is used to embellish the stones. - Certified Muzo origin: Each emerald is accompanied by a certificate confirming its origin and authenticity as a Muzo emerald from a highly respected independent gemmological laboratory in Switzerland. - Traceability: Each emerald is individually numbered and can be traced back to the rough it originates from.

Muzo region and the Rio Minero river (photo: Serge Sibert).

The Puerto Arturo winding shaft at the Muzo mines, depth of 150 meters (photo: Serge Sibert).

Throughout the entire process, Muzo International’s commitment to social, ethical and environmental standards remains steadfast, and is implemented via its Corporate Social Responsibility and environmental initiatives. And, it is not just its own workers who benefit, but the entire region. Reforestation, improved sanitary conditions, and public health campaigns with a focus on the control of tropical diseases through vaccination and increased awareness of risk factors are all part of Muzo International’s charter. The company’s goal is to create an organizational culture committed to sustainable mining development, which can promote personal and business growth in a responsible framework for the individual, the community, and the environment. And, all of this while producing beautiful emeralds. Among the more exceptional gems to come from Muzo is the Fura Emerald. Discovered thirteen years ago, this 15,000-carat (2.270 kg) rough stone is five times larger than the more famous Unguentarium in the Vienna Imperial Treasury. Muzo is also where the most valuable rough emerald in the world was found, based on outstanding colour and brightness. The 2,000-carat Tena was named for a mythical queen from that region whose tears were said to have created the emeralds. Its estimated worth far exceeds that of the emerald brooch once owned by Russian Empress Catherine the Great that sold at auction in 2010 for $1,650,500.

Each important emerald is manually faceted and hand polished to achieve the perfect stone cut (photo: Serge Sibert).

But it is not just about size. Muzo emeralds, in fact, come in all sizes and are prized for their quality, clarity, and ideal colour, which ranges from saturated green to a slightly bluish-green hue. One such stone, a Cutting experts analyze rough emeralds to understand the best cutting path (photo: Serge Sibert).

A Muzo miner finds a rough emerald (photo: Serge Sibert).

magnificent 12.01-carat blue-green emerald, shattered the world record for carat price at a Sotheby’s auction in Geneva garnering $1,440,219 for an unheard of $119,000 per carat. Another exceptional, transparent, and enhancement-free Muzo emerald (9.27-ct) sold at Christies for $835,682. The report from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute, certifying its Colombian origin stated, “Natural emeralds from Colombia of this size, colour, and purity represent a great rarity and the described gemstone is thus a very exceptional treasure.” Clearly proud of its facetted gems, Muzo International also takes pride in the fact that its cutting workshops in Bogota have obtained ISO 9001 certification. This official recognition establishes a solid framework for a systematic approach of all internal processes in order to satisfy the expectations of its customers. Muzo International emeralds are sold exclusively through a network of representatives, which includes the most trusted names in the gemstone and jewellery industry. By controlling every aspect of emerald production, from the mines through the expert cutting and polishing, as well as the marketing of the finished stones, Muzo International not only maintains absolute control over the quality of its stones, but is also improving the quality of life for an entire region. It is a company that is certainly redefining green. (www.muzoemerald.com) 43

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PRETTY IN PINK AND PURPLE

3LQN DQG SXUSOH DUH DPRQJ WKH IDYRXULWH FRORXUV IRU ÂżQH jewellery. They range from soft tones to brighter and bolder shades, with the colours represented by such gems as sapphire, morganite, kunzite, tourmailne, rhodolite, rubellite, amethyst, spinel, jade, topaz, diamond, pearls, and a variety of other gems that are pretty in pink.

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9 1. Tourmaline and gold earrings by Tresor (USA). 2. Kunzite, diamond, and gold earrings by Alice K (USA). 3. Kunzite, diamond, and gold earrings by Sunghee Kim/Azuelos Jewellery (Italy/Morocco). 4. Ruby and diamond earrings by Cleison Roche (Brazil). 5. Sapphire and gold earrings by Pamela Froman (USA). 6. Multi-gem, gold, and diamond brooch by Paula Crevoshay (USA). 7. Morganite, diamond, and gold ring by Yael Designs (USA). 8. Ruby, diamond, and gold ring by Priority Gems (India). 9. Multi-gem, gold, and diamond ring by Goldesign (Brazil). 10. Shoe by RenĂŠ Caovilla (photo: AS). 11. Tourmaline and gold bracelet by Pamela Huizenga (USA). 12. Princess Asscher-Cut sapphires set with gold and diamonds by Quadamas (USA). 13. Outfit by Gucci (photo: AS).

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24 14. Sapphire, diamond, and gold pendant by Vida (Hong Kong). 15. Amethyst, diamond, and gold earrings by Minawala (India). 16. Rhodolite, amethyst, diamond, and gold pendant by Casato Roma (Italy). 17. Amethyst and gold bracelet by Vianna Brasil (Brazil). 18. Multi-gem, amethyst, and gold earrings by Roberto Coin (Italy). 19. Amethyst, sapphire, diamond, and gold ring by Isabelle Langlois (France). 20. Amethyst, diamond, and gold ring by Gavello (Italy). 21. Pearl and sapphire necklace by Crivelli (Italy). 22. Amethyst, sapphire, diamond, and gold ring by Al Coro (Germany). 23. Rhodolite, amethyst, diamond, sapphire, and gold ring by Rodney Rayner (Britain). 24. Shoe by Jimmy Choo (photo: AS). 25. Sapphire, diamond, and gold ring by Alberian & Aulde (USA). 26. Outfit by Hannibal Laguna (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

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CHEERFUL & BRIGHT A warm cheerful colour evoking sunshine and happiness,

yellow ranges from pale buttery hues to vivid sun tones. Fine jewellers create their lemony looks with gems that include sapphire, diamond, beryl, tourmaline, quartz, jade, and citrine.

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1. Yell YYellow ow and white diamond diam and platinum earrings by Uneek (USA). 2. Lemon quartz and citrine earrings by Dietrich (Switzerland). 3. Citrine and diamond ond earrings by Marco Bicego (Italy). 4. Yellow and white diamond ring by Picchiotti. (Italy). 5. Lemon quartztz and diamond ring by Vianna Brasil (Brazil). 6. Yellow and white diamond earrings by Sethi Couture (USA). 7. Citrine, silver, and gold ring by Joyeros EME de Mexico (Mexico). 8. Yellow and white diamond â&#x20AC;&#x153;Crisscutâ&#x20AC;? ring by Lili Diamonds (Israel). 9. Yellow diamond ring by Cora (USA). 10. Citrine and diamond diamond ring by Jafarov (Germany). 11. Outfit by Sung Jung Wan (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York).

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12. Fire opal, diamond, and gold earrings by Pamela Froman (USA). 13. Orange chalcedony halcedony and white sapphire earrings by Suzanne Kalan (USA). 14. Mandarin garnet, yellow sapphire, and diamond pendant by Spark Creations eations (USA). 15. Citrine and diamond pendant by Yael Sonia (USA/Brazil). 16. Citrine and gold pendant by Jochen hen Pohl (Germany). 17. Citrine and diamond earrings by Katherine Jetter (Australia). 18. Multi-gem and diamond ond ring by Goldesign (Brazil). 19. Agate and diamond earring by Mark Schneider (USA). 20. Mandarin garnet and diamond bracelet by Erica Courtney (USA). 21. Citrine and gold ring by Costis (Italy). 22. Outfit by Ramy Brook.

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C O L O U R S

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1. Tourmaline, diamond, and black rhodium-treated gold pendant by Dietrich (Switzerland). 2. Turqoise and lapis lazuli earrings by J Jewels Milano (Italy). 3. Opal and diamond ring by Alessio Boschi/Italian Design (Italy). 4. Blue topaz, diamond, and silver earrings by Jane Taylor (USA). 5. Turquoise and diamond pendant by Gay Freres (France). 6. Blue topaz, diamond, and enamel earrings by Victor Mayer (Germany). 7. Paraiba tourmaline and sapphire, bracelet by Stefan Hafner (Italy). 8. Topaz and diamond ring by Casato Roma (Italy). 9. Gold and gem ring by My Vice (Italy). 10. Sapphire and turquoise ring by Mousson Atelier (Russia). 11. Silver and topaz earring by Franco Pianegonda (Italy). 12. Turquoise and gold earring by Gurhan (USA). 13. Outfit by Angel Schlesser (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

BEAUTIFUL BLUES

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Aqua and royal blue are beautiful by themselves, but designers are also combining them to make a different statement. The favoured gems are turquoise, aquamarine, tourmaline, topaz, opal, iolite, sapphire, and lapis lazuli, as well as enamel.

23 14. Aquamarine and diamond earrings by Gordon Aatlo Design (USA). 15. Multi-gem and diamond bracelet by Staurino (Italy). 16. Sapphire and diamond pendant by Antonini (Italy). 17. Topaz, iolite, sapphire, and pearl pendant by Isabelle Langlois (France). 18. Topaz, Iolite, diamond, and chalcedony ring by Ponte Vecchio (Italy). 19. Aquamarine and diamond earrings by Buccellati (Italy). 20. Paraiba tourmaline and diamond earring by Clementina Duarte (Brazil). 21. Sapphire and diamond ring by Green G (Hong Kong). 22. Topaz and diamond earring by Aaron Shum (Hong Kong). 23. Sapphire and diamond ring in platinum by Jack Kelege (USA). 24. Faceted tanzanite by AG Color (USA). 25. Blue zircon and gold ring by Gintare (USA). 26. Outfit by Bibhu Mohapatra (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York).

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NATUREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S COLOURS

The colour of balance and harmony, green is believed by some to contain the energies of Nature. These luscious tones are evoked by the yellowish hues of peridot and beryl and the more grassy shades of tourmaline, tsavorite, jade, emerald, opal, and onyx, as well as enamel. 3 6

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1. Peridot and gold pendant by Gordon Aatlo Designs (USA). 2. Enamel and diamond pendant by Nite (Italy). 3. Multi-gem and diamond brooch by Paula Crevoshay (USA). 4. Jade and diamond pendant by David Lin (USA). 5. Tourmaline and tanzanite earrings by Tresor (USA). 6. Peridot and gold bracelet by Suzy Landa (USA). 7. Peridot and diamond ring by Jane Bohan (USA). 8. Multi-gem cuff by Ziio (Italy). 9. Peridot and diamond ring by Carelle (USA). 10. Outfit by Diane Von Furstenberg (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York).

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20 21 11. Tourmaline and diamond earrings by Kavant (Thailand). 12. Emerald and diamond earring by Eclat Jewels (USA). 13. Emerald and diamond earrings by Crivelli (Italy). 14. Green onyx and gold pendant by Shamila (USA). 15. Tourmaline and diamond earring by Erica Courtney (USA). 16. Emerald and diamond earring by Penny Preville (USA). 17. Chalcedony and iolite earrings by Maria Antonelle (Brazil). 18. Emerald and diamond earrings by Yvel (Israel). 19. Emerald and diamond earring by DeGrisogono (Switzerland). 20. Tsavorite, gold, and prasiolite ring by Opera Omnia (Italy). 21. Opal and diamond ring by Kabana (USA). 22. Emerald and diamond earring by MVee (Hong Kong). 23. Emerald (12.85-ct) by Muzo International (Colombia). 24. Outfit by Roberto Verino (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

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ELEGANT OPPOSITES

%ODFN DQG ZKLWH FRPERV DUH D VWDSOH LQ 多QH jewellery. One evokes the presence of all colour; the other its absence. These elegant opposites often come in diamonds, sapphires, quartz, pearls, onyx, agate, or jade.

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1. Pearl, diamond, and gold pendant by Oly Lynggaard (Denmark). 2. Pearl, diamond, and onyx earrings by Bibigi (Italy). 3. Black jade and diamond necklace by Robert Wan (Tahiti). 4. Diamond bangle by A.Link (USA). 5. Spinel, diamond, and quartz ring by Jean Marc Garel (France). 6. Onyx and diamond earrings by Sutra (USA). 7. Diamond earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 8. Enamel and silver ring by Kabana (USA). 9. Outfit by Emerson (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

16 19 10. Diamond pendant by MVee (Hong Kong). 11. Pearl, diamond, and onyx earrings by Autore (Australia). 12. Diamond pendant by Luca Carati (Italy). 13. Diamond and tsavorite micro-mosaic watch by Sicis Jewels (Italy). 14. Ionized steel, gold, and diamond ring by Michael Weggenmann (Germany). 15. Diamond earrings by Sophia by Design (USA). 16. Diamond and moonstone ring by Elke Berr (Switzerland). 17. Enamel and diamond pendant by Hellmuth (Germany). 18. Shoes by Enio Silla for Le Silla. 19. Silver and topaz ring by Manya Rouman (USA). 20. Outfit by Maria Escote (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

T R E N D S

C O L O U R S

THE YEAR OF THE HE

3 4

8 9

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1. Rhodium-plated silver and pearl earrings by Misaki (Monaco). 2. Amber and gold-plated pendant by Isharya (USA). 3. Burnished silver, zircon, and enamel ring by Misis (Italy). 4. Gold, mother-of-pearl, and diamond watch by Damiani (Italy). 5. Diamond, sapphire, and gold pendant by Forever Jewels (Singapore). 6. Gold and diamond bracelet by Messika (France). 7. Diamond, sapphire, gold, and pearl ring by MVee (Hong Kong). 8. Multi-gem and diamond bracelet by Arunashi (USA). 9. Diamond ring by Sutra (USA). 10. Outfit by Teresa Helbig (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

11 12

13 14

21 11. Emerald, diamond, pearl, and gold pendant by Utopia (Italy). 12. Diamond and gold earrings by Le Vian (USA). 13. Diamond and gold earrings by J Jewels Milano (Italy). 14. Emerald, ruby, gold, and diamond pendant by Dada Arrigoni (Italy). 15. Gold and diamond ring by Demarco (USA). 16. Tsavorite, ruby, diamond (Swarovski Gems), and gold ring by Marco Marchese (Brazil). 17. Emerald, amethyst, sapphire, and gold ring by Isabelle Langlois (France) 18. Gold, diamond, and turquoise bracelet by Amrapali (India). 19. Multi-gemstone, diamond, and gold ring by Paolo Piovan (Italy). 20. Diamond, ruby, and gold ring by Daniel Espinosa (Mexico). 21. Diamond, gold and enamel ring by Masriera (Spain). 22. Gold and diamond ring by Jolie B. Ray (USA). 22. Outfit by Valentino (photo: AS).

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T R E N D S

C O L O U R S

Model, left: Outfit by Jesus Del Pozo (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid). Model, right: Raffaella Curiel (photo: AS). Jewellery images courtesy of Jewelmer.

LIVING GOLD The exquisite golden Philippine South Sea pearl has soared in popularity over the last few years. Its inner glow combines luxuriously with gold, gemstones, and diamonds. And, no one knows better how to draw out its natural beauty than the prestigious brand Jewelmer Joaillerie. (Jewelmer.com)

www.baselworld.com

S O C I A L

M A R K E T I N G

SOCIAL MARKETING – TIPS, TRICKS, & TRENDS Why should you invest at least 30 minutes a day on social network sites? Because large or small, in today’s world, every business is affected by Social Media and its e-commerce partner, Social Marketing. Whether or not you are actively participating, your business is being talked about online. Social Marketing enables you to connect one-on-one or en masse with customers, both current and potential. By Diana S. Zimmerman

ccording to a recent Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study, the sale of luxury items (leather goods, textiles, watches, and jewellery) will cross the ten billion dollar threshold by 2013—with an increase of 20 percent a year thereafter. Although this represents less than 4 percent of the global luxury market, and only 1 percent of the total global e-commerce market, it’s still a formidable sum. Brands such as Tiffany, Michael Kors, Tacori, Louis Vuitton, Boucheron, and De Beers have all waged successful Social Marketing campaigns resulting in increased brand positioning, awareness, and sales. But you don’t have to be a megalith in the industry or have a massive marketing budget to be successful in this space. Every day, millions of dollars are made by small companies and individuals who have learned the basics of this still mostly uncharted environment. It would take volumes to teach all the various techniques. Even the most experienced agencies and individuals have yet to master this powerful communication tool. And, perhaps, because of its highly personal and constantly evolving nature, they never will. Even though Social Marketing can be complex—there are hundreds of tools available to help you along the way—the basics are not overly complicated. Just as a diamond’s worth is determined by the four C’s, Social Marketing’s success is determined by the five C’s: Credibility, Commitment, Content, Collaboration, and Community. Each plays a crucial role in developing and sustaining a monetized social platform. To violate any of them can spell failure, just as megalithic brands such as Sony, Virgin, Coca Cola, and Walmart have experienced.

Collaboration

Community

Credibility

Commitment

Social Marketing

Content

Even though Social Marketing can be complex, the basics are not overly complicated. Despite spending hundreds of thousands of dollars to engage the biggest and “best” agencies, each of these companies have had major campaign disasters, and for different reasons. But at the heart of each failure was the lack of credibility— which is why it is the first of the five C’s. Credibility Unlike traditional advertising that simply pushes out content, Social Marketing is a two-way communication vehicle. As such, information is subject to scrutiny, feedback, and challenge. Even the slightest hint of content not being genuine or coming across as mere advertising can destroy

an otherwise well-executed campaign. It is important to focus on information that is honest, straightforward, and benefits the reader. Save the hype for your website. Even there, content must be genuine. It is also important to understand that credibility is not just about content. It’s 360 degrees in nature, including delivering an overall great customer experience from initial contact, through purchase, service, and, of course, the product, itself. Social Marketing is, first and foremost, a relationship game, and without trust, it can quickly become game-over. An excellent book on creating credibility is The Zen of Social Media Marketing: An Easier Way to Build Credibility, Generate Buzz, and Increase Revenue by Sharma Hyder Kabani. Some of the information may be a bit dated—Social Marketing is constantly evolving—but the basics remain the same and this book has so many gems, it is well-worth reading. Commitment Commitment—or lack thereof—is probably the single biggest reason why most small businesses are unable to create and sustain a successful Social Marketing platform. Campaigns that instantly go viral are few and far between. Most take three to six months or more to realize benefits. Having a Facebook page or a blog is not Social Marketing. They can be components of it, just as Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram, LinkedIn, and other targetspecific social sites can be, but only when they are properly designed, maintained, and promoted utilizing a well defined and fully committed strategic approach. Even 30 minutes a day can make a big difference once a campaign is up and running.

BUYER’S GUIDE

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Shows: Tucson GJX, Inhorgenta Munich, Hong Kong Gems & Jewelry Shows, Baselworld

'MXVMRI 7YR JEGI EFPE^I [MXL GSPSV ÂEQIW F] PAULY - The Art of Carving This combination of high relief and intaglio engraving is only a small example of the skills and variety of techniques employed in different materials and motives by the work-shop of Pauly. Hans-Ulrich Pauly – third generation of gem stone carvers from Idar-Oberstein – offers you the widest range of carvings from miniature essex crystals to carved bowls and sculptures both from his imagination and/or your ideas. Show: Tucson GJX

PAULY Designer’s file www.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Pauly - The Art of Carving.html

Naturally, the more effort you devote to it, the wider the audience you can reach. Successful B2C marketing begins with establishing long and short-term goals, a realistic budget and time commitment, and then developing a comprehensive strategic plan that matches your specific

Unlike traditional advertising that simply pushes out content, Social Marketing is a two-way communication vehicle. objectives. The plan should include the integration of paid and free promotion, a mobile marketing component (the fastest growing trend in Social Marketing), as well as analytic tools to measure progress. Larry Chase’s Web Digest For Marketers newsletter (wdfm.com) is an outstanding resource to find and remain current with the best tools in over fifty marketing categories—and it’s free. Determining the best social channels for your business depends upon your targeted demographic, time commitment, and available budget. It is far better to focus on three or four relevant sites, and keep them constantly refreshed, than trying to sustain too many. Content In the world of Social Marketing, especially Mobile Marketing, dynamic content is king. Customers return when they know there will be something new and compelling to learn or experience. Be creative. Think outside the box. It could be the latest fashion or jewellery trends, a cool new product, or a great contest. Or perhaps viewers are encouraged to submit a picture of their favourite piece of jewellery and the story behind it. Each week, a new individual is featured. Successful campaigns allow your audience to participate, just as they do in any social gathering. If content becomes stagnant or contains marketing hype, customers quickly lose interest and go elsewhere. Social sites should never be a dumping ground for advertising. Remember, everyone likes to buy, but no one wants to be sold. 62

Social Marketing is all about the customer, meeting his or her needs, not yours. Your job as a social marketer is to build trusted relationships; sales will follow. And that means engaging in conversations that allow you to listen to what they have to say—good or bad. Collaboration While paying to be at the top of search engines is a great way to jump-start awareness, collaboration with your targeted audience, bloggers, and other demographic specific sites is far more powerful. Here, too, it is all about doing research to find the appropriate channels, then giving before you get. Mention them in your blog, link them to your website, write a positive review of a product or book they sell, tweet about their website. In other words, start building collaborative relationships. Feature complementary products and a link where they can be purchased on your site. Handbags are one of the top searched luxury items. Why not feature an upscale brand with a special piece of your jewellery? This allows you to expand keyword searches, and begin to build collaborative goodwill utilizing products that appeal to the same customer base.

Social Marketing is all about the customer. Everyone likes to buy, but no one wants to be sold. Bloggers, especially those with large followings, can have an enormous impact in helping you build a community. They get inundated, however, with press releases, so do not send them yours. Instead, build a relationship by commenting on their blogs, mention how much you like them, add related information, tweet about specific content, and link them to your sites. Offer discounts on your products for those who repurpose your content. While its never acceptable to directly lift content from other sites, without giving credit, be gracious when it happens, and simply

request that you be credited. Many sites actually encourage it, with the condition that you credit the originator. Build relationships by helping others before you expect favours from them. The same is true of customers. Ask for their opinions, genuinely listen to what they have to say, and then respond in a highly personal way. Never respond with canned or defensive answers. Customers may not always be right, but they always have the choice of going elsewhere—and will if they’re not made to feel valued.

Social sites should never be a dumping ground for advertising. Community Social Marketing is about building and sustaining a community of followers and collaborators. Each member has the potential to be an ambassador for your business—or the catalyst for destroying it. News on the web—good or bad—spreads instantly. Now, with millions of mobile connections, it spreads even faster. Ethics, integrity, and responsiveness are vital in maintaining a responsive community of supporters. Not every member will be a buyer, but every member can be an evangelist for your company. No one truly understands why Social Marketing campaigns succeed or fail. Even the most knowledgeable experts don’t succeed every time. But by following these five C’s, you can greatly maximize your success. Whether you’re an active participant or just starting to delve into this lucrative world, both the challenges and the opportunities can be enormous. Once you understand the basics, however, and commit the time and resources to making it happen, the rewards are unlimited. Diana S. Zimmerman, a regular contributor to CIJ Trends & Colours, is president of CMS Communications Intl., a marketing communications agency that helps companies with across-the-board live communication needs. She is the co-author of Tactical Abyss, a book on strategic marketing. www.cmsbiz.com

TRADE SHOW FOR JEWELRY AND WATCHES FEBRUARY 22 – 25, 2013 MESSE MÜNCHEN, Munich, Germany INHORGENTA.COM

profile

The 4 th Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair

Sometimes, it’s good to look back, to the moment when things started. requests from jewellery manufacturers and retail jewellers than they can handle and/or accommodate. The number of requests for return visits keeps rising as the dates of the ADTF come closer—and we are still more than three months away. Obviously, ADTF has gained recognition as a high-end, exclusive event! When, in February 2010, the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair (ADTF) opened its doors for the first time, anticipation was high. It was the first time in more than four hundred years of Antwerp’s rich diamond history that the Scheldt City’s diamantaires threw the doors of their bourses’ trading halls wide open for jewellers to come in and get a taste of what had usually remained hidden—the widest possible selection of polished diamonds in the world.

So what is the secret of this fair? One visitor put it as follows: “After I visited the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair, I realized that while I had known a lot about Antwerp, it was the first time I really understood Antwerp’s ‘diamond power.’ In Antwerp, at the ADTF, I got access to

So, from January 27 to 29, 2013, when the trading halls of the 110-year-old Antwerp Diamond Bourse and the even older Antwerp Diamond Club once again open their doors to the top echelon of the international diamond buyers community, Antwerp’s leading diamond firms once again will offer visitors an unprecedented array of business opportunities, enabling them to: - Find new sources and forge new business ties and contacts. Buyers will find that the goods on offer are unavailable elsewhere in the diamond market and are offered at competitive prices, with world-class service and speed of shipping and delivery. - View and compare diamonds in a rela xed setting without the time pressure that is so often characteristic of other trade fairs. Buyers will see the exceptional selection of diamond goods on offer from more than 70 Antwerp diamond firms.

Fast-forward to four years later. The anticipation among exhibitors remains high, but not because of beginner’s nerves. With the ADTF firmly positioned on the annual calendar of prestigious, international trade fairs, the exhibiting companies in the fourth edition of the ADTF 2013 are eagerly looking forward to welcome delegations of buyers from North America, greater China, the Russian Federation, the Middle East and, of course, Europe. As a by-invitation-only trade fair, the organizers are receiving far more

a variety and choice of goods I had never been given before.”

w w w . a n t w e r p d i a m o n d f a i r. c o m

- Enjoy the social evening events that allow for continued networking and socializing in an exclusive atmosphere. Buyers will also discover Antwerp’s charming city centre with an organized tour. The fair offers visitors and their partners the chance to discover Antwerp’s exciting cultural and architectural heritage.

Sponsored by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre

Exhibitors : 70 Antwerp diamond companies.

Visitors : jeweller retailers, designers, manufacturers. By invitation only.

Info : www.antwerpdiamondfair.com

marketplace–india

Indian Jewellery Design – Bollywood and Beyond When it comes to creating fine jewellery and spectacular events to showcase these elaborate pieces, there is no better example than the India International Jewellery Week, held just before the annual trade fair, India International Jewellery Show. By Cynthia Unninayar

It was glamour, glitter, and grandeur in Mumbai last August when India’s Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) hosted the third edition of India International Jewellery Week (IIJW) at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Mumbai. IIJW is an initiative to showcase India’s finest jewellery in terms of design, innovation, craftsmanship, technology, and quality to customers around the globe. The world’s leader in diamonds, India is also the fastest growing manufacturing centre, and, this year, 32 of its leading designers and brands showcased a wide variety of styles and the latest trends at the five-day event. Adding even more glitz to this grand production, actress and model Soonam Kapoor, GJEPC’s brand ambassador, dazzled the runway wearing some of the most spectacular jewellery pieces made by Indian jewellery designers, as well 66

Diamond and ruby jewellery by IIJS participant Priority Jewels.

During the IIJW Grande Finale, Soonam Kapoor, centre front, with the models wearing the “Best of the Best” creations.

as Indian couture fashion. A number of other Bollywood celebrities also shared the ramp, along with popular models, and the shows were staged by leading Indian choreographers. Japan was even represented by the nation’s leading jewellery designer, the late Nobuko Ishikawa, a pioneer in introducing “design” to jewellery in Japan, whose designs were presented by his sister, Yoshie Ishikawa. To encourage new talent, there was also a spot for up and coming jewellery designers on

the runway. The event concluded with a majestic Grande Finale evening, where each participant featured extraordinary pieces in the “Best of the Best” line-up. A Few Design Highlights Gitanjali Gems, the global jewellery group, followed their “Beti” concept that wowed audiences at the previous

At IIJW, Amrita Arora walking the ramp wearing gemstone and diamond jewellery by Agni Jewels.

Sonal Chauhan walking the runway wearing jewellery evoking a blend of vintage Indian contemporary styles and the romanticism of the royal Victorian era by Dipti-Amisha.

Model wearing ruby and diamond jewellery at IIJW by Cappuchino Collection.

edition. This year, their jewellery featured the mother-daughter duo, with various celebrity moms walking the red carpet. Laksh Pahuja, one of India’s most prominent designers, commemorated 100 years of the sinking of the Titanic. He presented a “Titanic” necklace, handcrafted with blue diamonds, silver, gold, Swarovski zircons, wood, and white diamonds. Among his other designs was a dragon headdress. Amrapali introduced the “Panna” collection in association with the emerald miner, Gemfields. Through five millennia, from Mogul magnificence to Hollywood glamour, the talismanic emerald has been lusted after for its seductive beauty and ravishing rarity, and the brand’s artisans worked in traditional Indian techniques

Model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at IIJW by Amrapali, with emeralds from Gemfields.

Model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at IIJW by Gitanjali.

to showcase these green gems in a variety of designs. Dipti-Amisha, a sister team, re-created “treasure beyond measure” in a blend of vintage Indian contemporary styles and the romanticism of the royal Victorian era. In addition to gold and diamonds, the collection was crafted using emeralds, topaz, opal, ruby and pearls to offer a vibrant and colourful alternative to the line. Jewels Emporium brought forth its extravagant “Jadau” jewellery portraying a rich stimulating palette with a playful mélange of shimmering gold, vivid gemstones, and a variety of French enamelling in more than 350 different shades. Anmol Jewellers are well known for their endless imagination and lavish use

Model wearing diamond and gemstone jewellery at IIJW by Jewels Emporium.

Model wearing diamond and ruby jewellery at IIJW by IGI (K.P. Sanghvi).

of colour. This year they presented a collection blending contemporary style with a touch of traditional Indian design. Kays Jewels presented its “Ambe Ambalike” collection, a celebration of womanhood. The main source of inspiration was the girl child at birth, the Kanyaa. For IIJW, Kays Jewels created a range of pieces for the contemporary woman, offering an eclectic mix of diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. On the traditional side, Kays also presented a range of traditional Kundan Gold Meenakari jewellery befitting the royals of the Mogul era. Zeenat Desai presented pieces that revitalized the jewels of India’s golden age, bringing them up to date for a new generation of fashion-forward women. 67

marketplace - india

Model wearing emerald, pearl, and diamond jewellery at IIJW by Kays Jewels.

Model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at IIJW by KGK Jewellery.

Model wearing a dragon headdress made of gemstones and diamonds in silver by Laksh Pahuja.

Natural gems and precious metals combined with innovative, edgy styling to give a fresh spin on traditional jewellery forms. The collection presented an eclectic array of Mogul-inspired jewellery with an avant-garde twist. IIJS: New Initiatives The 29th annual India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) welcomed pavilions from a number of countries including Thailand, Belgium, Israel, Turkey and the United Arab Emirates. Some fifty new exhibitors joined the IIJS this year, bringing the total to more than 800 companies from India and around the world, with a wide variety of products in gold, silver, platinum, gemstones, and other materials. The GJEPC, the show’s organizer and trade body promoting “Brand India,” indicated that the first half of 2012 was difficult for the nation’s jewellery industry, as manufacturers confronted inflation, the depreciation of the rupee, tight liquidity, high rough diamond prices, and a slowing of the Indian economy. Feelings at the show, however, were upbeat, despite these temporary fluctuations. Exhibitors were hopeful that the upcoming Indian festivals and wedding season would help increase sales. One of the new initiatives at the show was an exhibition of Filigree, Patwa, Bidri, and Bamboo jewellery, sponored by the 68

Model wearing diamond jewellery at IIJW, designed by the late Nobuko Ishikawa, a pioneer in Japanese design.

GJEPC, under the “Craft to Jewellery” banner. It also announced the creation of the Gem and Jewellery Skill Council of India, whose goal is to encourage designers and brands to incorporate traditional Indian crafts into their pieces. It is also seen as a way to help skilled artisans to earn a steady income so that these skills are not lost. A second initiative was announced by Sanjay Kothari, GJEPC vice chairman, who indicated that the organization would launch a three-year generic diamond marketing campaign in India and China for consumers. “India and China should take the lead in promoting diamond jewellery to the consumer public,” he stated, adding that the GJEPC was in talks with the Diamond

Model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at IIJW by Saboo Jewels.

Administration of China (DAC). “India is the most important market for us and we have resolved to start our diamond promotion efforts right here. During the next three years, we intend to allocate two to three million US dollars per year toward this goal.” Kothari also called upon other diamond centers to join the consumer-focused campaign. During the IIJS, the RBS Solitaire Awards, under the gem-friendly theme of “Color Splash,” were given at a ceremony at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Mumbai. The awards were divided into two categories: Competition A, for IIJS exhibitors and Competition B, for non– IIJS participants that included students and artisans. The sixth edition of the prestigious IIJS Signature show will be held in Mumbai from February 22 to 25, 2013. Next year’s IIJS 2013 will take place from August 8 to 12, in Mumbai. Silver sculpture designed by Indian company Moments, an IIJS participant, and crafted in Italy, for sale in India by Moments.

Increasing your proﬁts by expanding your colored gemstone and pearl business isn’t complicated. Rely on trusted partners to help build your business. That’s why it is important to connect with AGTA Members. Each year they sign a Code of Ethics that signiﬁes their commitment to maintaining the industry’s highest standards. BUY SMART

BUY SAFE

At the AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, buy smart and buy safe in the secure comfort of the Tucson Convention Center where you will ﬁnd the highest quality, best value and broadest selection. You’ll connect with US- and Canadian-based professionals plus attend seminars and workshops that will educate and inspire. Connect with Success at the 2013 AGTA GemFair Tucson.

FEBRUARY 5 – 10 Show/Hotel Information: AGTA.org

Registration Hotline: 800-879-6259 AGTA Office: 800-972-1162

Expanded Tools, Technology and Supplies Pavilion Daily “At the Bench Live” Presentations by MJSA February 5-8, 2013

M A R K E T P L A C E – I TA LY

ITALIAN DESIGN AND MORE AT C ORTINA AND VICENZA A perfect location to showcase luxurious Italian Style at the exclusive About J show was the prestigious resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo, nestled in the heart of the magnificent Dolomite Mountains. Following this by-invitation only event was VicenzaOro Fall, the second in the city’s trilogy of trade fairs. By Cynthia Unninayar

Gold and diamond “Diana” ring by Chimento.

Burnished gold and diamond cuffs by Crivelli.

The luxurious Grand Hotel Savoia in the village of Cortina d’Ampezzo, the Queen of the Dolomites, was the setting for the exclusive About J event in September, which brought select retailers from around the world to see the products of 23 luxury Italian and international brands. “We chose this unique location in the Dolomites for this year’s About J since the UNESCO World Heritage site of Cortina d’Ampezzo is a fitting venue for the exclusive and unique business meeting of the international jewellery community,” explained Roberto Ditri, chairman and CEO of Fiera di Vicenza, organizer of About J and the trilogy of Italian jewellery trade fairs, VicenzaOro Winter, Spring, and Fall. 70

Gold and black diamond charm by Rosato.

Stackable gold and gemstone “Liberty Fashion” bangles by DiGo.

Reactions Among the exhibitors at About J event was Mattia Cielo, president of his eponymous Italian brand: “We have been exhibiting at About J for four years, since it started, and this year was the best ever. Strong orders and interest came from North America and the Middle East.” Similar sentiments were echoed by British designer, Rodney Rayner: “The show has been very good, and we have had several orders from buyers from around the world, including North America, Dubai, and Azerbaijan.” Strong interest was also reported by Ricardo Vianna, president of Vianna Brasil, one of two Brazilian brands at the event. “We are happy with the show, and made a lot of good contacts to follow up at the VicenzaOro show.” And follow up, buyers did. After About J, VicenzaOro Fall welcomed some 20,000 buyers from more than 109 countries, coming to see the products from 1400 exhibitors, mostly from Italy, but also companies from 30 foreign nations. After a few difficult years, the sector was looking for positive signs of encouragement and confidence, and the show seemingly did not disappoint. Pilar Coin, marketing director for Roberto Coin, stated: “We found a revitalized and optimistic business climate despite the difficulties that Europe is experiencing. We can put this result down to the

Technically sophisticated ring evoking movement in 18K gold and gemstones from the Rugiada collection by Mattia Cielo. Colored silver bangles by The Fifth Season. Gold and diamond brooch by Vendorafa.

enormous work that Fiera di Vicenza is doing with the VicenzaOro brand.” Eduardo Bruner, marketing & creative director of Brazilian brand, Brumani, said, “I found About J extremely interesting and it was a leisurely way to work and make contacts with the buyers. We were very pleased with the results at About J and VicenzaOro Fall.” Roberta Scanavin, CEO of Scanavin indicated: “It was the best edition of the year. We recorded ten new customers, including two from the USA, confirming that the market is recovering. We are extremely satisfied because 90 percent of the jewellery we sold was in gold.” As usual, buyers’ groups came from around the world, including a contingent from the recovering USA market. Among them was retailer Richard Eiseman: “I enjoyed the About J introductory event and was very impressed by the efficiency and organisational skills of the VicenzaOro staff who made it possible for us to appreciate Italian style and design. We will take home the gemstones and jewellery we selected here, which cannot be found in the United States, and present them to our extremely alert customers.” U.S. retailer, Alfredo J. Molina, was also impressed with the two events: “A symbolic change is needed. We have to concentrate on quality and the socalled ‘wow’ effect. We have to astound,

dazzle, and make a reasonable profit as the same time. We have to transform the business into a sector that sells emotion. Fiera di Vicenza is able to astound.”

Multi-gemstone and diamond ring by Ponte Vecchio.

Multi-gemstone and gold ring by Opera Omnia.

Whimsical gemstone and enamel ring by Santagostino.

More Than Just a Trade Fair As part of its ability to “astound,” the fair is continuing strategies to improve not only the fair itself but also to promote Italian design around the world. “We are proceeding with the four pillars of our strategy: new infrastructures, new organization of the events, new organization and development of the network,” summarized Ditri. In May 2012, the fair sponsored two major global conferences: The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and the World Diamond Council (WDC). It also organized an important debate about Corporate Social Responsibility, as part of the World Jewellery Forum with a wline-up of noted panellists. The fair’s high profile also captured world attention with its “Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Awards”—the Oscars of the jewellery world—which have been presided over by such notables as Gianmaria Buccellati and Nicky Oppenheimer. To encourage young designers, VicenzaOro Fall held its second edition of “Next Jeneration,” an international competition for under30s designers from international schools 71

m a r k e t p l a c e - i ta ly

Ruby and sapphire rings set with diamonds by Garavelli.

Diamond bracelet in the Siberian Tiger Limited Edition collection by Roberto Coin.

of design. The theme for 2013 is “Porte Bonheur. Contemporary amulets and lucky charms.” [The deadline for project entry is March 1, 2013.] The “TrendVision Jewellery + Forecasting” project is Fiera di Vicenza’s independent Research Centre. Drawing on social, cultural, political, and environmental factors, TrendVision proposes the most significant megatrends with spin-offs on contemporary jewellery design, production, and distribution. With the aim of promoting Italian jewellery around the world, the Fiera di Vicenza has formed partnerships with some of the world’s major trade associations and shows. These alliances include the Dubai World Trade Centre, Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council in India (GJEPC), T-Gold International (aimed at promoting exportation of Italian technology to China, Brazil, and India), and Reed Exhibitions (JCK show). Among other projects is the North American Buyer Cultivation Initiative, whose objective is to promote brand awareness and customer loyalty in the American retail market in collaboration with leading independent retailer organizations. Italian Design The theme of this year’s show was “Creativity 5.0,” an illusion to the web 2.0 concept, but taking it to a higher 72

Bangle made from the exclusive “Silverfope™” alloy, using the patented stretchable Flex’it technology, by Fope. Sapphire and diamond ring from the “La Grande Onda” collection by Palmiero.

level. It involves reinventing strategies for companies in terms of product and process innovation, new distribution strategies, and better communication with consumers. Creativity was certainly not lacking at the fair. In addition to fine gold designs, many booths showcased a variety of colourful jewellery, evoked by gemstones or by enamel work, especially in floral designs, although blackened gold was

Diamond and gold ring by Bonato.

still a favourite. In response to continuing high gold prices, stylish silver pieces were seen nearly everywhere. Coming in the white metal or treated with a variety of colours or gold finishes, they clearly offered an alternative value. Charm-maker Rosato was back, this time under the umbrella of Bros Manifatture, parent company of Brosway, which decided to re-launch it at VicenzaOro in a sumptuous “experiential” setting. “For a brand with such a strong Italian-made heritage, how could it not be re-launched during the most important fair in the world,” mused Lanfranco Beleggia, CEO of Bros Manifatture. The brand remake involved eliminating the ambassadors (previously, Rosato employed Demi Moore and Liz Hurley) in favour of creating stories with its attractive little charms. Coming in both silver and a gold line, with or without enamel, the pieces show a surprising amount of detail, and will be marketed “in Italy and abroad through offline channels with carefully selected distribution in order to be ready for the future, depending on demand, for online sales,” explained Beleggia. Other examples of design creativity can be seen on these pages. VicenzaOro Winter will be held in January 19 to 24, 2103. (www.Vicenzaoro.org) (www.aboutjevent.it)

marketplace–bangkok

CREATIVE DESIGN – THAI STYLE The golden jubilee edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair showcased a wide variety of Thai designs, ranging from simple silver styles to sumptuous gold and gemstone creations. By Cynthia Unninayar

Representatives to the First ASEAN Gems and Jewelry Presidents Summit Plus 6 sign the MOU for regional cooperation.

The 50th edition of the bi-annual Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair (BGJF) was not only significant this year because it marked the event’s 50th show, but also because it hosted the First ASEAN Gems and Jewelry Presidents Summit Plus 6. Going back in history, the very first BGJF first took place in 1983 at the Dusit Thani Hotel with 48 booths. Held for three days, it was later extended to five. In 1993, it was held twice a year as it is today. This golden jubilee edition attracted 30,000 visitors who came to see the products in the 1800 booths, before the five-day event closed on September 17. This BFJF was opened by the Prime Minister of Thailand, Her Excellency Yingluck Shinawatra, who stated in her address, “The gems and jewellery industry has become one of the trade marks of Thailand today. Indeed, the Government has always recognized the important role of this sector as a means to showcase Thai creativity and craftsmanship as well as to help generate export revenue and tourism.” Commenting on the First ASEAN Gems and Jewelry Presidents 74

Thailand’s Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra, centre, cuts the ribbon at the opening of the 50th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, while to her left, Somchai Phornchindarak, president of TGJTA, and other dignitaries look on.

Specializing in original silver designs, Goldlip created this pendant made from an opal, embellished with silver and gold and an orange sapphire.

Summit Plus 6, she continued, “As Thailand becomes part of the emerging ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) in 2015, it is more important than ever that Thailand maintains its competitive edge in this industry. To this end, innovation, technology, new markets, appropriate sources of raw materials, and high standards of corporate good governance and social responsibility will all be key factors.”

The First ASEAN Gems and Jewelry Presidents Summit Plus 6 is the initiative of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA) and its president, Somchai Phornchindarak, who welcomed more than 40 delegates from Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, The Philippines, Singapore, and Vietnam, as well as representatives from dialogue partner countries China, India, Japan, and South Korea. This inaugural meeting signified the first step toward new and unprecedented levels of cooperation that could establish the region as a major contender in global gems and jewellery production and trading. “All ASEAN

Thailand is thought of as the “ruby capital” so it’s no wonder that many Thai manufacturers, such as Seven Stars Industries, create beautiful ruby and diamond jewellery.

One of the Ploi Thai entries was this pair of ruby and diamond earrings by VBP International.

The Zero VAT booth is exempt from the 7 percent value-added tax on imports of rough gems and raw materials into Thailand for manufacturing.

Among the Ploi Thai participants is Beauty Gems, which showcased a wide variety of fine jewellery including this sapphire and diamond ring.

countries have their own gems and jewellery industry with different purposes and expertise,” explained Phornchindarak. “Under the AEC Blueprint, when the region becomes a single manufacturing base and consumer block (and trade free zone), this offers huge opportunities for every country.” The meeting concluded with the signing of the “memorandum of understanding” for regional cooperation. Focus on Design As part of the BGJF’s Golden Jubilee Celebrations, the organizers honoured 27 exhibitors who have participated in all 50 Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fairs, with a gold-plated Dedicated Exhibitor Award. Among the other events was the Design Pavilion Trend 2013, a cooperative project of Swarovski Gems with the TGJTA. Dr Birgit Rieder, director of Trend and Design at Swarovski Gems, described the latest Gem Visions 2013 as an insight into global cultural megatrends, which are “full of all levels of emotion and senses. There is now an acknowledged shift in jewellery fashion

Gem and mineral carvings, by Gems Sculpture, are handcrafted from a single block of natural stone, each of which is selected from more than 10,000 tons of rough material.

Silver jewellery takes on new meaning in these silver and gemstone creations by Choon Jewelry, a member of the Thai Silver Exporters Association.

from complex designs to rare important gemstones. The designs will be more daring, and will call for more inspirations from everywhere, ranging from myth and fable to super-technologies, utilizing contemporary fusion of concepts, forms, materials and crafts.” Cutting-edge design trends were also showcased at the Creative Innovation Pavilion, a joint effort of Swarovski Elements with the TGJTA. Featured at the Creative Innovation Pavilion was Xirius 1008, Swarovski Elements’ newest brilliant crystal element. The 50th show was enjoyed the largest international participation to date, with exhibitors coming from 36 nations. A continuing highlight of the fair was the Ploi Thai Jewelry Creation Design Contest, showcasing the Thai country brand for gems and jewellery produced in Thailand. The leading brands that participate launch their new collections in time for the fair, and these include sumptuous gold, diamond, and gemstone creations, which sometimes take months to create. 75

marketplace - bangkok

Sapphires and diamonds create a beautiful necklace and ring by Ploi Thai participant, Gem Production.

Colourful sapphires and rubies combine with diamonds in these earrings by Ploi Thai participant, Paragon Worldwide.

Model showing off creations featuring Swarovski Elements.

Thailand is the world’s largest producer of silver jewellery and to this end, the Thai Silver Exporters Association (TSEA) organized a special exhibit to showcase the products of their members and highlight the quality and craftsmanship of silver jewellery produced in the nation. This exhibit featured a variety of silver designs, from simple metal, to metal with crystal, to sophisticated pieces made with diamonds and colourful gemstones. “Our goal is to promote Thai silver jewellery as a ‘preferred brand’ among customers in the international marketplace. We are therefore focusing on four fundamental areas: Education, Communication, Member Benefit, and Government and Industry Relations,” explained Weerasak Lervisrt, president of the TSEA. (www. thaisilverexporteclub.com) Marketing and Economic Issues According to the Ministry of Commerce, exports of gems and jewellery between January and May 2012 were valued at 76

Sapphires from Sri Lanka that were faceted by Thaibased TC Mining International.

$4.5 billion, down 17.4 percent from the previous year. In the same period, imports were valued at $5.9 Billion, up 21.63 percent, giving a trade deficit of about $2.6 billion, due to gold bar imports. This industry is the fourth largest in Thailand (after cars and parts, computers and parts, processed oil). “The BGJF is the best marketing tool for the Thai gems and jewellery industry,” declared BGJF’s CEO, Suttipong Damrongsakul. “Despite the slowing economic situation in the USA and Europe, we are optimistic that our trading partners in these areas will soon recover. Thailand has a strong manufacturing base, but we still need to improve our marketing strategy.” He added that having duty-free situation like Hong Kong would be a boon for business. “The TGJTA has proposed that the government set up a tax-free period for one month during the fair to stimulate business, and if the green light is granted, I believe our industry will be much stronger.”

The BGJF has not waited for government actions, however, and has set up services to facilitate purchases, such as the Business Matching and Online Sourcing Project, which handled record numbers of business enquiries, linking buyers and sellers in an efficient manner. Many overseas buyers also seemed to appreciate the Gems & Jewelry Factory Outlet, where a wide range of products was available for immediate cash sale, without having to place long-term orders. The Zero Vat booth at the BGJF proved to be popular, as exhibitors were exempt from the 7 percent value-added tax on imports of rough gems and raw materials into Thailand for manufacturing. This clearly enhances Thailand competiveness to attract the world’s best gemstones. The 51st edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair will be held February 26 to March 2, 2013. (www.bangkokgemsfair.com)

SIJS 2012 ends on a high note! The 8th edition of the Singapore International Jewellery Show (SIJS) 2012 has ended on the good note on 15th July, and it has left a deep impression on all participants present at the show. While all good things come to an end, let us recap all the excitements present at the show! Opening its doors on the 12th, SIJS started off with an opening ceremony for its invited guests and VIPs. Amidst the elegant setting of the exhibition area, the guests find themselves fully immersed into the luxurious setting of the place. The guests were further treated to a captivating fashion show. They also got a glimpse of the brilliant jewelleries that were on display at the show. Tea party sessions were also held to people from various associations, and they were treated to workshops and talks, accompanied by quality bite-size treats. Soon after in the afternoon, SIJS was opened to the public, and visitors started pouring in, hunting down for the perfect jewellery. Within that day there were several talks held by professionals from the industry which proved to be relevant and useful to all industry players as well as the public in gaining a deeper insight on the world of jewellery and gemstones. A rare 99-carat Sapphire was also on display at the show, proving itself to be one of the main attractions for the visitors. Its brilliance and beauty definitely captured the hearts of its admirers. At the end of the day the daily purchase lucky draw was conducted, and the lucky winners walked home with them precious items sponsored by our very own exhibitors, with a diamond ring worth $12,000 being the prize for the grand draw, proving to be the climax of the show. Eight years of continuous success, four days of exhibition, one melting pot for all glittery inspirations. SIJS 2012 lands its footprints in Singapore as the largest and leading jewellery show catering to both trade and consumer sectors!

JUNE Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 20 – 23 June 2013 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

One of the top three trade events of its kind in Asia, the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (June Fair) attracts thousands of exhibitors and buyers from around the world. In 2013, the June Fair will run from 20 to 23 June at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). It will offer international jewellers what UBM Asia’s events are known for: unmatched opportunities to tap into the world’s most robust jewellery markets, sell products to thousands of serious buyers from around the world, and cost-effectively market their brands on a global stage.

Magnet for Jewellery Trade Superior Location

Hong Kong -- Asia’s world city -- is the perfect springboard to the booming economies of mainland China and the rest of Asia. The city’s proximity to two of the world’s most robust jewellery markets: China and India, has made the city the preferred launch pad for companies looking to break into these markets.

Free-trade policy offers a business-friendly environment

Hong Kong’s free-trade policy attracts traders from around the world to conduct business in the city. There are no duties or restrictions imposed on precious jewellery products or materials, enabling them to ﬂow in and out of the city freely.

Ideal schedule

June is just the perfect time for jewellers to restock in the middle of the year and update themselves on market trends for the coming seasons. The June Fair’s ideal schedule and a host of exciting offerings have propelled it to become the most important midyear jewellery event in Asia.

One trip • Two attractions

The June Fair will be held concurrently with Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – June (AFJ) also at the HKCEC. Buyers visiting the June Fair can enjoy free access to AFJ, thereby enriching their trip.

Clear product sectorisation enhances business matching

The Fair’s large scale and the wide variety of products offered are easy to navigate. Exhibitors are grouped under specialty pavilions according to the products they offer. With such buyer-friendly setup, buyers can easily locate the products they are interested in, while exhibitors can easily meet their targeted buyers.

Theme Pavilions Highlights Hong Kong Premier Pavilion

An exclusive showcase of the city’s best

Fair Details Venue: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wanchai, Hong Kong Fair Dates & Opening Hours Opening Hours 10:30am – 6:30pm 10:30am – 5:30pm

A select group of around 40 Hong Kong avant-garde jewellery brands will feature their latest Dates exquisite collections. Coupled with the best facilities and utmost conditions, the pavilion is the 20 – 22 June 2013 perfect setting to show the extraordinary strength of Hong Kong jewellery. 23 June 2013

Fine Design Pavilion / Fine Gem Pavilion

Sponsors: • The Gemmological Association of Hong Kong • Gemological Institute of America (Hong Kong) The pavilions showcase a tantalizing spread of the world’s ﬁnest jewellery, top-quality loose • Hong Kong Gold & Silver Ornament Workers diamonds, gemstones and pearls, invaluable antique and estate jewellery and other exclusive & Merchants General Union one-offs. About 80 renowned jewellers will showcase their masterpieces in an elegant setting • The Kowloon Pearls, Precious Stones, Jade, Gold and Silver Ornament that traders and connoisseurs are sure to enjoy. • Merchants Association

An esteemed venue for the world’s finest jewellery

Enquiries For exhibiting details, please contact: Sales Department, Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia Ltd Tel: (852) 2585 6179/ 2516 1677 Fax: (852) 3749 7319 Email: salesjgf-hk@ubm.com www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

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marketplace–hong kong september fair

MILESTONE FOR HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR The very large September edition of the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair continues to expand, attracting not only fine Asian exhibitors, but a roster of global brands as well. This year, it passed a milestone, its 30th anniversary, with two new initiatives. Austrian brand Swarovski Gems unveiled “Natural Reflection,” a new generation of Marcasite, By Cynthia Unninayar

Nature-inspired pieces were very popular from many brands such as this 18K gold, diamond, and rock crystal ring by Forever Jewels (Singapore).

Honourees at the inaugural JNA Awards ceremony, with Letitia Chow, sixth from left.

Now in its 30th year, the September edition of the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair continues to be one of the world’s favoured destinations for brands and manufacturers around the world. Spread over two venues— the HK Convention Centre (HKCEC) in Wanchai for finished jewellery and the Asia World Expo (AWE) near the airport for loose stones, pearls, packaging, and equipment—this year’s edition attracted some 3,500 exhibitors from 46 countries and regions. Visitor attendance was up from last year with around 51,500 trade professionals coming from 155 countries and regions. According to fair officials, the September fair had the largest exhibitor and visitor turnout in the event’s history. Also, more than 50 percent of buyers were from overseas, an indication of the fair’s global reach. Not surprising, the top five visiting countries, excluding Hong Kong, were China, India, Taiwan, Thailand and the USA. New Initiatives This year, the fair initiated two new events. “The jewellery exhibition industry is very competitive,” said Celine Lau, Director of Jewellery Fairs for UBM Asia. “To lead the industry, continual improvement and 80

innovation are indispensable, which is why, for our 30th anniversary, we are celebrating our two new industry initiatives, the IU Awards that we piloted with ICA, and the JNA Awards.” Organized by Jewellery News Asia, the first JNA Awards will be an industry-wide event that honours and recognizes excellence and achievement in the jewellery trade. Letitia Chow, founder of JNA and Director of Business Development, Jewellery Group, UBM Asia, chaired the JNA Awards judging panel and the gala awards ceremony. “The success of this first JNA Awards ceremony was tremendous. We have achieved our main goal to provide the industry with a benchmark for excellence and achievement and are looking forward to the same success at the JNA Awards 2013,” stated Chow. Two other initiatives also marked the expansion ambitions of UBM Asia, which already organizes jewellery fairs in Hong Kong, China, India, and Japan. Riding the wave of steady growth in Asia’s economy, the event organizer will launch its first edition of the “Singapore Jewellery & Gem Fair” to be held October 12 to 15, 2013. “Asia is growing at an unprecedented pace and this brings about abundant opportunities for the

the mineral iron pyrite, that blurs the boundaries between gemstone and metal. Shown above is a necklace designed by Pranda Jewelry for Swarovski Natural Reflection (Thailand).

South Sea golden pearls were bestsellers at the Hong Kong fair. The winner of the JNA Awards in the category of “Sustainability Initiative of the Year” was Jewelmer, which created this graceful “Vitta” ring in 18K gold, diamonds, and golden pearls (Philippines).

jewellery trade,” explained Wolfram Diener, Senior Vice President, UBM Asia. “Nestled in the heart of Asia, Singapore presents tremendous business opportunities for jewellers to position their products to capture consumer demand in Southeast Asia.” In a second initiative, UBM Asia is joining forces with UBM Live, its sister company in Europe, to expand into that region with the launch of its new “Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe,” or “JGF Europe,” in April 2014, held in Freiburg, Germany. Going nearly head to head with BaselWorld, this announcement raised more than a few eyebrows. Again, according to Diener, UBM Asia has carefully studied the location, date, and the opinions of potential exhibitors and Elegant diamond, gold, and gemstone ring evoking the butterfly trend by E&V Jewellery (Hong Kong).

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Horn | That part of a watch case to which the strap is attached. Horns come in various shapes and are attached to the case middle.

m a r k e t p l a c e – HONG KONG SEPTEMBER F A IR Sapphires and diamonds set in 18K gold in a floral motif, a specialty of Sabina Lee, designer for the inventive brand, Green G (Hong Kong).

Award-winning diamond and gold “Angel Gift” ring by Peter Lam (Hong Kong).

Jade is a perennial favourite among Asian consumers. Seen here is a jade and diamond ring set in 18K gold by Jun-Ming Tseng (Taiwan). Palladium has attracted the attention of jeweller Aaron Shum who has created pieces made in the white metal embellished with Swarovski natural gemstones as shown by this pendant (Hong Kong).

The Nature theme is carried through in this sapphire, diamond and 18K gold necklace by MVee (Hong Kong).

buyers, coming to the conclusion that JGF Europe can provide a viable venue for quality exhibitors showcasing a wide array of jewellery products, serving all of Europe. “Freiburg is conveniently accessible by car or by public transportation from major jewellery trading hubs such as Antwerp, Basel, Geneva, Paris, Pforzheim, and Vicenza. Only 30 minutes away from Basel, buyers can easily visit the two European fairs in one trip,” he explained. While traffic was good at AWE, a number of diamond companies indicated that demand was not as strong as they had hoped, with price a dampening factor, despite the overall drop over the last few months. Generally, however, they indicated sales were moderate to good. The same overall opinion was found in the gems section. Some reported that most sales were to Chinese buyers, with favourite stones being red gems, mainly rubies and high-end rubellites, and medium-quality green tourmalines. Pearl dealers indicated that although demand from the USA and Europe was soft, it was firmer from Asian markets, with the bulk of sales coming from Chinese buyers, followed by those from Hong Kong. South Sea golden pearls were among the favoured purchases. At the opening of the HKCEC venue, sentiments were similar, with sales ranging from slow to moderate to good. Traffic was high on the first two days, then calmer later on, although some booths continued to be busy, especially in Hall 1 and the Hong Kong Premier Pavilion. Many exhibitors 82

An important trend at the fair was the use of black and white diamonds set in rhodium-plated gold as seen in this pair of earrings by Vida (Hong Kong).

were hoping Asian buyers would make up for the declining demand from Europe and the USA, but others were resigned to the fact that the precarious global economic scenario is also affecting the Asian demand for fine jewellery. “The Hong Kong jewellery manufacturers and gemstone suppliers, as well as the industry as a whole, have been affected by the monetary and economic situation in the European Union and the United States, Bold long turquoise and silver necklace by Yang Lay (Singapore).

which has also impacted the markets in Asia and China,” said Kent Wong, Assistant Chairman of the Hong Kong Jewellers’ and Goldsmith Association. “Fine jewellery seems to be suffering from the slowing growth, but I stress that it is only the growth rate that has slowed. Our total growth rate was 60 percent last year, but at the first half of this year, we are only seeing about 10-plus percent growth.” He added that although sales of high-end products have been affected, the middle and lower-end goods are still being purchased. This sentiment was echoed by Ricky Lam, Chairman of the Hong Kong Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association, who forecast that the lower-to-middle markets in Asia, especially China, will continue to make up for the slowdown in other areas. Lam added that many people consider jewellery to be an investment given the uncertainty in the overall economic environment. “Jewellery, diamonds, and gold are thought of as a way to preserve value, thus, ever since the financial crisis, Hong Kong’s export of jewellery items has been rising. Last year, exports increased 67 percent.” Overall, exhibitors expressed satisfaction with the business and contacts they made over the five-day event. As for products, just about everything was available, and the photos on these pages offer a glimpse into the many beautiful designs from Asian companies present at the fair. The dates for the 2013 edition are early next year, from September 11 to 17. (www.ubmasia.com)

marketplace–idar-oberstein

INTERGEM 2012 FEATURES THE NEW AND UNUSUAL In Germany, the town of Idar-Oberstein was the home to the 28th Intergem, which opened on October 5 to more than 1,000 visitors eager to find the best of the best in terms of coloured gemstones, diamonds and finished jewelry. By the close on October 8, the fair had been visited by 3,500 visitors from 50 countries around the world. By Karen Nuckols

Faceted samples of African tourmaline from Wild & Petsch (photo: Wild & Petsch).

The Idar-Oberstein region of Germany is renowned for its generations of high-quality cutters, carvers and jewellery designers, and this year’s 165 exhibitors did not disappoint. While 70 percent of the exhibitors were from the region, 25 percent joined from other areas in Germany, and 5 percent came from other countries. There was something for everyone to purchase in a variety of price ranges, from the finest gemstones and diamonds to carvings, equipment, and supplies. Intergem is always a place where “new finds” can be seen. One such piece was a carving of unidentified green quartz at the booth of Lorenz Edelstein Design, of Idar-Oberstein. Dieter Lorenz, the carver, said the rough came from Brazil and that he would be taking it to the gemmological society for analysis and identification. Jewellery designers from around the world came to buy Lorenz’s unique carvings to create one-of-a-kind rings, earrings, and pendants. Serious collectors also often head 84

Carved agate pendant by Daniela Becker from Creativum (photo: Intergem).

A remarkable alto recorder flute carved in rock crystal by the firm Emil Becker (photo: Dierick Bevoort of Diebe Media).

directly to the Emil Becker stand to see what spectacular piece will be on display. The firm, under the direction of Manfred Wild of Kirschweiler in Germany, always introduces a new creation for his own pleasure as well as that of his collectors. Last year, he presented the beautiful Ferris wheel, but this year, it was a magnificent rock crystal alto recorder flute, which gives “rock music” a new meaning. The recorder was fully playable as heard in Ulricke Trappe-Krieger’s lovely rendition of “Ode to Joy.” This is not Becker’s first successful instrument. In previous years, he created a fully operative clarinet, also from rock crystal, and a set of panpipes. Another equally unusual piece was found at the booth of Sonja Kreis from Dusseldorf. Created by Alexander Kreis, “Chanting of the Stars” is both a piece of sculpture and a pendant. Made of rutilated quartz, the pendant represents a meeting with a comet or a “Star of Bethlehem,” with planet

marketplace–idar-oberstein “Singing of the Stars” sculpture by Alexander Kreis, of Sonja Kreis (photo: Dierick Bevoort of Diebe Media).

When the comet is removed from the “Singing of the Stars” sculpture, it makes a very wearable pendant.

Earth depicted in smoky quartz. Put the pieces together and it is indeed a striking piece of sculpture. Remove the “comet,” and turn it upside down, and it becomes a stunning pendant. Kreis designed and fabricated special tools in order to create the piece, which took nearly a year of work. Bernd Munsteiner announced the release of a new book, “Munsteiner: The Young Generation, Tom + Jutta Munsteiner,” and showed examples of the work of his talented son and daughter-in-law during a well attended slide presentation. Not only are trade fairs the place to find beautiful goods, but they are a good place to take the pulse of the industry. At Intergem, we heard from Thomas Lind of Hermann Lind II that it has been “an interesting year” for the garnet business, with sales doing well in recent months. He attributed his success to years of excellent customer service and a wide variety of quality stones. Lind added that buyers are learning that garnets come in more colours than just red, which has helped create strong sales for all members of the garnet family. Achim Grimm from Hermann Grimm KG reported that pink tourmaline was popular at the Hong Kong show this year, and that matched pairs were big with U.S. buyers. He reported that sales at Intergem on Sunday were excellent, but that overall, sales were not quite as high as last year. He felt that this 86

Amethyst and diamond pendant on a pearl necklace by CC Pearls (photo: Intergem).

Tom Munsteiner holds a new book showcasing the work of himself and his wife Jutta. To the right is one of Munsteiner’s stone sculptures (photo: Dierick Bevoort of Diebe Media).

was due to the fact that last year was exceptionally good. Alexander Wild of Wild & Petsch also reported a satisfactory Hong Kong show in September, and said Basel was exceptionally good last March. At this Intergem, he added that Sunday sales made for a fairly good show. Alex Taggart of Bella Luce, located in Idar-Oberstein, explained that his company sells finished diamond jewellery to retail stores. Due to the cost of gold, he said that it is hard to get appointments. It seems that jewellers are selling their current stock first, then ordering new. Taggart also commented that when jewellers remove gold jewellery from the display windows, it gives the consumer the

impression that gold is no longer the trend, thus contributing to the difficulty in selling it. Thomas Furstenberg Franzmann of Herbert Furstenberg e.K. described how they are making changes to reflect market needs. As an example, they produce a line of ceramic rings which are selling well and can take the place of gold. He also discussed the availability of gemstones, indicating that, while dealers in Idar-Oberstein can supply the needs of buyers for the next five years, they can only buy rough when it is offered. The Chinese have become big players in this market and will pay more than others. They also take everything the mine has, rather than specifying only the better grades, obviously making them preferred customers. Show officials reported that the most sought-after gemstone colours were the autumn tones—red, cognac, shades of browns and berries, as well as combinations with black. Overall, exhibitors agreed that Intergem provided the ideal setting for developing business contacts. The next edition will be held from October 3 to 6, 2013. A new type of green quartz, found in Brazil, and carved by Dieter Lorenz (photo: Dierick Bevoort of Diebe Media).

editorial & advertisers index

A.Link 52 Aaron Basha 35 Aaron Shum 49, 82 AG Color 49, 83 Agni Jewels 67 AGTA 69 Al Coro 45 Alberian & Aulde 32, 45 Alessio Boschi 18, 25, 36, 48 Alexander Kreis 86 Alice K 44 Amberif 88 Amrapali 33, 55, 67 Antonini 31, 49 Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair 64, 65 Anzie 20 Armas 36 Arunashi 54 Autore 53 Azuelos Jewellery 20, 44 Baccarat 18 Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Show 73 Bapalal Keshavlal 14, 15, 17, 52 Barbara D’Oro 26 BaselWorld 58, 59 Bavna 34 Beauty Gems 75 Belle Etoile 17 Bellon 35 Bibigi 21, 52 Bizzotto 31 BK Jewellery 9 Blue White Group 24, 27, 29 Bonato 72 Bruner 17 Buccellati Buccellati 20, 49 Cappuchino Collection 67 Carelle 17, 50 Carla Amorim 19, 28 Carrera y Carrera 28 Casato Roma 17, 45, 48 CC Pearls 86 Chimento 70 Choon Jewelry 75 Cleison Roche 44 Clementina Duarte 49 Commelin 25 Coomi 33, 34 Cora 46 Costis 47 Cris Porto 31 Crivelli 45, 51, 70 Dada Arrigoni 35, 55 Damiani 28, 54 Dana David 31 Daniel Espinosa 30, 55 Daniela Becker/Creativum 84 David Lin 50 DeGrisogono 51 Demarco 55 Dietrich 21, 46, 48 DiGo 70 Dipti-Amisha 67 E&V Jewellery 80 Eclat Jewels 51 Effy Jewelry 25 Elke Berr 53 Emil Becker 84 Erica Courtney 17, 47, 51 EV Jewelry Design 33 Fondation Haute Horlogerie 81 Fope 36, 72 Forever Jewels 18, 54, 80 Franco Pianegonda 48 Garaude 19 Garavelli 21, 72 Gavello 45 Gay Freres 48 Gem Priority 66 Gem Production 76 Gemfields 6, 7, 17, 67

Gems Cube 87 Gems Sculpture 75 Georland 25 Gintare 49 Gitanjali 67 Goldesign 44, 47 Goldlip 74 Gordon Aatlo Designs 17, 49 Goshwara 32 Green G 49, 82 Gumuchian 18 Gurhan 48 H. Stern 21 Hellmuth 30, 53 Hera 28 Hera’Z 85 IGI/K.P. Sanghvi 67 Inhorgenta 63 Isabelle Langlois 18, 37, 45, 49, 55 Isharya 54 Italian Design 36, 48 J Jewels Milano 24, 29, 48, 55 Jack Kelege 18, 49 Jafarov 46 Jane Bohan 50 Jane Taylor 20, 48 Jean Marc Garel 52 Jenny Perl 18 Jenny Reeves 34 Jewelmer 35, 56, 57, 80 Jewels Emporium 67 Joanna Angelett 25, 41 Jochen Pohl C.I, C.II, 3, 10, 11 18, 47 Jolfer 19 Jolie B. Ray 19 Jorg Heinz 32 Joyeros EME de Mexico 46 Jun-Ming Tseng 82 Kabana 51, 52 Katerina Maxine 32 Katherine Jetter 17, 47 Kavant 19, 51 Kays Jewels 68 KGK Jewellery 68 La Reina 21, 32, Laksh Pahuja 68 Le Téo & Blet 35 Le Vian 18, 55 Leaderline 24, 27 Lika Behar 33 Lili Diamonds 46 Lisa Nik 28 Luca Carati 28, 53 Lydia Courteille 30 Madstone 30 Maevona 33 Magerit 20 Manya Rouman 53 Marco Marchese 55 Marco Bicego 46 Margery Hirschey 34 Maria Antonelle 51 Mark Schneider 26, 47 Mary Esses 21 Masriera 33, 55 Mattia Cielo 36, 71 Mattioli 35 Mauro Felter 34 Meissen Joaillerie 26 Messika 54 Metalsmiths Sterling 33 Michael Weggenmann 53 Miiori 31 Minawala 45 Misaki 54 Misis 19, 31, 54 Moments 68 Mousson Atelier 19, 48 Munsteiner 86 Muzo Intl 17, 23, 42, 43, 51 MVee 12, 13, 26, 28, 30, 32, 51, 53, 54, 82 My Vice 48 Nanis 20, 28, 35

Nicoletta Cei 34 Nite 50 Nobuko Ishikawa 68 Norman Silverman 18 Octium 31 Old World Chain 33 Oly Lynggaard 52 Opera Omnia 51, 71 Oscar Heyman 18 Palmiero 20, 72 Pamela Froman 44, 47 Pamela Huizenga 34, 44 Paolo Piovan 25, 55 Paragon Worldwide 76 Paula Crevoshay 19, 44, 50 Pauly 61 Pearce Design 21, 34 Penny Preville 51 Peter Lam 82 Piaget 26 Picchiotti 46 Pierre-Yves 33 Pippo Perez 30, 35 Ponte Vecchio 26, 49, 71 Priority Gems 44 Quadamas 44, 61 Raboud 90, C.III Ramon 5, 21 Re’volve Jewelry 36 Reena Ahluwalia 31 Reglisse 36 Rina Limor 26, 32 Robert Wan 52 Roberto Coin 20, 45, 72 Rodney Rayner 45 Roman Herzo 21 Rosato 70 Saboo Jewels 68 Sandy Leong 19 Santagostino 71 Sethi Couture 46 Seven Stars Industries 75 Shamila 51 Sharart Design 20, 31, 36 Sicis Jewels 21, 53 Singapore Int’l Jewellery Show 77 Sophia by Design 53 Spark Creations 19, 47 Staurino 49 Stefan Hafner 48 Steven Webster 30 Suna Bros 21 Sunghee Kim 20, 44 Sutra 52, 54 Suzanne Kalan 47 Suzy Landa 50 Swarovski Elements 76 Swarovski Gems 55, 80 Syna 32 TC Mining Int’l 76 Temple St Clair 25 The Fifth Season 22, 71, C.IV Theo Fennel 17 Thistle & Bee 20 Todd Reed 34 Tresor 20, 44, 50 Uneek 46 Utopia 54 Vahan 28 Van Cleef & Arpels 32 VBP Int’l 75 Vendorafa 71 Vianna Brasil 16, 25, 31, 45, 46 Vicente Agor 28 Victor Mayer 48 Victor Veylan 33, 34 Vida 26, 30, 45, 82 Wild & Petsch 61, 84 Yael Designs 44 Yael Sonia 47 Yang Lay 82 Yvel 51 Ziio 20, 50 Zorab Atelier 25 Zydo 19

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