Watchmaking in Washington DC
Grand Seiko, a new start in the USA
Rolex and the Bubble back
A visit to Tiny Jewel Box, jeweller to the political establishment in the capital for decades. ...................................................p.10
The Japanese watchmaker explains its strategy for targeting watch lovers in America. ......................................................p.13
How a 1933 modification to the Oyster case by Rolex engineers gave rise to an iconic shape. ......................................................p.29
WATCH.AFICIONADO
A EUROPA STAR GROUP PUBLICATION
WATCH BUSINESS PAPER | USA VOL. 54 NO. 305 | CHAPTER 4/2018 | WWW.EUROPASTAR.COM
EDITORIAL
Baselworld: salvation through watch culture? By Serge Maillard
Its main competitor is a Geneva cultural foundation. Its headquarters are in a city recognised internationally for the influence of its art. Its venue is the work of venerated architects. And yet, strangely, Baselworld seems to have missed a fundamental shift in the world of watchmaking: the mechanical watch has become both a contemporary art form, appreciated by the world’s wealthy, and a true global culture that ignites the passion of younger people. Far from killing off the watch by appropriating its basic function, the virtual world has increased its attraction. Instagram has not made the watch an old and odd thing, it has restored the glory of the most traditional timepieces! The frenzy of social networks has made the slower pace of the watch industry ever more attractive, as seen by the success of Omega’s Speedy Tuesday operation (see p. 8). Baselworld would be well advised to position itself as the keeper of global watch culture, which is in a better state than ever. Its current image, that of a fast-declining fair, is the first existential obstacle for the new management to overcome. They have just taken the reins and they are immediately confronted with a major crisis, following the departure of their main exhibitor. Let’s stop pitting the end client against the business customer. Retailers are regional experts who, if they have survived the recent years’ drastic changes in the watch distribution chain, are still there for a good reason: their address book, their access to collectors in their area, and their ongoing dialogue (both online and off) with them. Imagine that the profits of MCH, the parent company of Baselworld, could be put towards inviting
The 72 pre-selected watches (view central section)
renowned retailers from around the world for an “experience” (the buzzword today) with one or more of their best end clients. This fair must become “B to B to C” in order to truly bring together the best of watchmaking! Let’s dream of a more “horizontal” fair, in tune with the managerial culture of our time. Once in Basel, let’s imagine that, far from being limited to a tour of the booths – which are certainly impressive – the “experience” would translate into major retrospectives of exceptional pieces (the Geneva watchmaking museum, closed for fifteen years, could supply some interesting exhibits...), interactive experiences into the heart of the watch movement, and panels of speakers debating the hot topics of the industry. Consider bringing in major auction houses, which have become the real new gathering place for watch collectors. It’s not just about money: the fair, with its rich archives, could use its powerful cultural resources to offer something new about the olden days. Let’s fight for the creation of a genuine central library, offering books devoted to fine watchmaking (a bit of self-promotion here...), as it is this heritage that is so lauded today by millennials. And beyond: the Bodmer Foundation in Geneva is a good example of what can be done in this area, combining ancient writings and ultra-contemporary technologies. Let’s invite a guest from the world of the arts to blend their vision with watchmaking. Ulysse Nardin exhibited works by Damien Hirst on their booth at the latest SIHH. The organiser of Art Basel certainly has the resources and contacts necessary for such an initiative! Baselworld belongs to MCH as a financial entity. But the Basel Fair, which is more than a century old, belongs to the entire industry as a cultural entity. Its disappearance would be anything but a positive signal, as it is part of a long tradition which itself is also the best commercial argument for the industry today. The catharsis of the watch world should not start with the destruction of its ancestral rituals...
Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting By Serge Maillard
Longines is continuing to target high-precision quartz through the V.H.P. collection, which brings a surprising innovation. The Flash Setting mode included in the collection’s new GMT model uses a smartphone flashlight to set the time zone. This intelligent module remains operational in all circumstances, no electronic emissions needed. The guiding philosophy is to place new technology at the service of the watch, rather than the (Read on page 4) other way around.